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textfiles/groups/CDC/ultra21.txt
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Ü Ü Ü ÜÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ
Û Û Û Û ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÛ
ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÜ Û Û ÛÜ Û Û
ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜ
ÜÜÜÛ Û
ÛÜÜÜ ÜÛÜ
ÜÜÜ Ü Ü ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜ ÜÜÜ Ü ÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ Ü Ü
ÛÜÛÜ ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÜ Û Û Û Û Û ÛÜÜÜ Û ÛÜ ÛÜÜÛ ßÜÜß
ÛÜÜÛ ÜÜÜÛ ÜÜÜÛ ÜÛÜ Û ÛÜÛ ÜÛÜ ÜÜÜÛ Û ÛÜÜÜ Û ÛÜ Û Û
ÜÜÜÜ Ü Ü ÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ ÜÜÜ ÜÜÜÜ Ü Ü ÜÜÜ ÜÜÜ Ü ÜÜÜÜ
Û ÜÜ Û Û Û Û Û ÛÜ Û Û Û ÛÜÛÜ Û Û ßÜÜß Û Û Û Û Û ÜÜ
ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÛ ÜÛÜ ÜÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÜ Û ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÛ ÛÜÜÛ Û Û ÜÛÜ Û ÛÜÛ ÛÜÜÛ
Acrylic Box - The Pimp
Advanced Pearl Box - Dispater
Beige Box 1 - Dr. Ditto
Beige Box 2 - >Unknown<
Black Box - >Unknown<
Blast Box - Shadow Hawk
Brown Box - >Unknown<
Bud Box - Dr. D-Code & The Pimp
Charge Box - Piggy The Pig
Cheese Box - >Unknown<
Chrome Box - Outlaw Telecommandos
Clear Box - >Unknown<
Copper Box - The Cypher
Crimson Box - Dr. D-Code
Dayglo Box - John F. Kennedy
Ditto Box - Dr. Ditto
Diverter Info - >Unknown<
Grab Box - Shadowspawn
Green Box - Bioc Agent 003
HBO Box - >Unknown<
Infinity Box - Ironman
JRD Red Box - J.R. Dobbs Red Box
Light Box - >Unknown<
Lunch Box - Dr. D-Code
Magenta Box - Street Fighter
Mauve Box - Captain Generic
Neon Box - >Unknown<
Olive Box ->Unknown<
Pearl Box - Dr. D-Code
Pin Box - Fugazi
Pink Box - Baba O'Riley
Purple Box - The Flash
Razz Box - The Magnet
Red Box - >Unknown<
Rock Box - Video Vindicator
Red Box from 2600 - 2600
Scarlet Box - The Pimp
Scribble Box - Outlaw Telecommandos
Silver Box - >Unknown<
Slush Box - Dispater
Snow Box - >Unknown<
Tan Box - Samurai Cat
Tanger Box - Happy Harley
White Box - >Unknown<
I have collected as many of the box files as i could find and placed them into
one easy to read text file. I have left out any blue box information since it
is outdated (Mostly) in the United States. I have collected enough info on
Blue Boxes to release as a future file anyways. I tried to give credit to any
person or group who originally released the text file. I removed many of the
board names and numbers since they are no longer active. I always wondered
why no one else has compiled all the information avaliable on boxes into an
easy to read single file. So i went ahead and did it. Everything is mostly
in alphabetical order.
As many of you know Blitzkrieg Bbs has gone down. That was our main release
point for ULTRA files. We will search for a new system to distribute from
until Predat0r puts another system back up. I encourage all who enjoyed the
system to drop a note to the post office box. I'm sure we can expect to see
a better system when it goes back up. I also think we will have exclusive
first hand knowledge of when that will be since we are in contact. I am
going to try to do an interview with Predat0r for a future release.
If you like this file be sure to get all the other ULTRA releases.
`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`
|-------Acrylic Box Plans-------|
| \----------------/ |
| \______By______/ |
| |
| [ The Pimp ] |
\_______________________________/
Ok the purpose of this box is to get Three-Way-Calling, Call Waiting,
programmable Call Forwarding, and an easier way of extended Bud Boxing ALL for
FREE.
Materials:
1) Wire stripers
2) Couple Feet Wire
3) AT&T/BELL Can
4) Hex Wrench
Idea: Ok the idea of this box is to get all of the above features by stealing
them from the fortunate ones on your block.
Procedure:
Step 1) Find AT&T/BELL Can that is being used to service you surrounding area.
Step 2) Open can with Hex wrench.
Step 3) Find your line and another persons line who has 3-way, Call
(waiting/forwarding), if the # of all the lines are not listed in the box you
will have to use your local ANI to find them.
Step 4) Once you have found the lines then wire the (Black & Yellow) wires on
the victims line to the (Black & Yellow) wires on you line (Be sure your phone
at home uses all 4 wire as some of the cheap phones don't).
Step 5) Then disconnect the victims (Black & Yellow) Wires, resulting the the
loss of these features to their line ( you mat want to leave these wires
connected, this may or may not cause problems I haven't tried it that may yet).
Well That Sums It Up!
Procedure for easier extended Bud Box.
If if for some reason your line is disconnected, or you just want to use hook
someone's line to your line for fearless phreaking follow the procedure below.
Ok Go to the local can and find a line that is used by weekend visitors or a
summer/winter home, and hook their (Red & Green) Wires to your (Red & Green)
Wires, and your off into the fearless world of phreaking ( i recommend you
phreak from these line, so that the owners don't get uptight and look into the
matter), unless of course you are doing it for revenge!
Some Suggestions:
Take a Bud box Along to do a ANI just to make sure you have the right line,
also in some cases you will have to switch between the (Red/Green)
(Black/Yellow) or any other combination if your area has changed the standard
format which id very unlikely.
Have Fun
And I'm not responsible for your actions.
Acrylic Box: Written & Created
By
[ The Pimp ]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
////////////////////////////////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
|= =|
|= Advanced Pearl Box =|
|= 07/01/89 (APB) 07/01/89 =|
|= Tested and Created by: Dispater =|
|= =| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\/////////////////////////////////////
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTRO: After reading the fucked up shit on the original pearl box, I decided
that there was an easier and cheaper way of doing the same thing with
an IC and parts you probably have just laying around the house.
PARTS: CD4049 RCA intigrated circuit
.1 uF disk capacitor
1 uF 16V electrolitic capacitor
1K resistor
10K resistor
1meg pot
1N914 diode
some SPST momentary pushbutton switches
9 Volt battery & clip
and miscalanious shit you should have laying around the house.
STATE-OF-THE-ART-NEATO TEXT SCHEMATIC:
+ 16V 1uF -
_______________________________||_____
| ! ! || | _
| _______________________ |__________| |/| 8ohms
____|__|_____:__|__:__|_ | __________| | |
| 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 | | | |_|\|
| CD4049UBE | | |
|_1__2__3__4__5__6__7__8_| : | _
| | |__| |__| | |____________________|_________[-]
| | ! ! : [b]
| |__________________________| [a]
| : : | [t]
| ! 1N914 ! ! [t]
|___________|/|_____________________________________[+]
: |\| : :
| | |
| 10K | |
|___/\/\/\__| |
| | |
|_____||____| |
|| | |
.1uF 50V | |
| |
___| |___
| |
|_/\/\/\_____/\/\/\ | 1Meg
1K ^ |
|____|
EXTRAS:
To keep tones that you wanna use frequently like 1850 Hz then all you
have to do is put in a variable resistor and adjust it to where you
have the correct tone, then just put a push-putton switch on the line.
You can link them together in a chain, etc.
| ___ |
| o o |
| /\/\/\___| |__|
| ^ |
|____| ___ |
| o o |
| /\/\/\___| |__|
| ^ |
|__| |
! !
: (etc) :
There are many other good mods to make to the box so have phun and be smart.
Topic for today: Beige Boxing
Written by : Dr. Ditto of SOF
F.R.O.G. - Foneline: Recieving/Outgoing, Guarded phreaking.
The reason I call this FROG phreaking is simple - you use the
Foneline, can Recieve calls and make Outgoing calls, and you are
basically Guarded when you do it. (Actually, I have this fone that
looks like a frog, which I "modified" to use for phreaking, so I
decided to use those letters as an acronym. Pretty neat, huh?)
In reality, this idea is known as "Beige Boxing". But, since I
didn't know that at the time I wrote this phile, and since I
despise the color beige, *I'M* gonna call it frogging. You call it
whatever you want.
FROG phreaking is a bit different from other phreaking, which you
do in the privacy of your own home. There are a few downfalls to
using codes, and phreaking from your home, such as 1) The call can
be traced 2) The Phone Company keeps a log of ALL your outgoing
calls, incoming calls, and the time you spent talking. They know
which number you call, and when, and which number called you, etc.
3) Sometimes codes can bill, and if you use them from your own
line, you can be billed 4) The phone co takes interest in your use
of codes - if they see you ripping them off too much, they squash
you.
As you can see, it's VERY easy to get busted, if you aren't
careful. FROG phreaking (Frogging, from now on) is a bit safer, in
some respects. And then again, maybe not. It's not for everyone,
but you can decide that for yourself.
With Frogging, you don't use your own fone line. You use your
neighbors. Or your bosses. Or the one for the old warehouse down
the street. Simply put, Frogging involves tapping into another
person's phone line, which is HIGHLY ILLEGAL. Frogging involves
trespassing, and possibly being seen,, depending on how secretive
you are. Frogging is, to say the least, something you DON'T want
to get caught doing. Consider yourself warned.
FROGGING Basics
Like most kinds of phreaking, you will need some special
equipment. Here is a list of things you WILL need:
1) Lineman's Handset (or a working, MODIFIABLE phone)
2) Screwdriver (flathead, in most cases)
3) Two alligator clips (preferably insulated)
4) Solder and Soldering Iron
5) Electricians Tape
6) * 20' of phone wire & phone jack (female)
7) * Flashlight (test it!)
8) * SPST switch
The items with asterisks (*) are OPTIONAL, but helpful. The rest
is definitely needed. Now, it's really nice if you have a
lineman's handset, but since 99.9% of the people don't, I'll tell
ya how to make one, from your MODIFIABLE phone (not the one in your
kitchen that mommy uses to call for pizza, ok?!?!) You should use
a small ONE PIECE phone (with the dial and hangup buttons on the
handset), preferably TOUCH TONE, but not necessary, and it would be
nice if it had a lighted dial, so you can see to dial at night.
Here's how to fix the phone, to allow it to be used on ANY phone
line:
1) Cut the plug off the end of the phone cord, but leave about 2
inches of wire connected to the plug. You may be glad later that
you did. NOTE: If you have the 20' of wire and female phone jack,
don't bother cutting up the phone cord. You can, but it's probably
a waste of time.
2) Back to the phone cord - you will see 4 wires: red, green,
black, and yellow. Ignore the black and yellow, cause they aren't
used at all for our purpose. Strip the red and green wires about
1/2 an inch, and solder one alligator clip to the red wire, and one
to the green wire. Allow the solder to cool (about 30 seconds) and
wrap the soldered joints with electrical tape. If you are using
the 20' of wire, solder an alligator clip to the red and green
wires, as told above. Then, attatch the female phone plug to the
other end of the wire, making a kind of Phreakers extension cord.
(Be sure to hook the red and green wires up to the right place!)
Your phone can then be plugged into the phone jack, which in turn
runs into the alligator clips. This way, the phone will need no
modification.
3) Well, the easy stuff (?) is done; now for the PHUN part! Go
outside to the phone box on your house, and (using that
screwdriver) open it. There are more types of phone boxes than
there are IBM compatibles, so it's tough to describe what you will
see, in detail. All boxes are the same, for the most part, though.
You will probably see a phone cord plugged into a test jack. This
is the line that connects your house to the outside phone lines.
Pull out the plug, and your house fones go dead. Put it back in,
and they reconnect (how brilliant we are today!) ANYWAY - hook
your modified telephone (HANDSET from now on) onto the screws in
your phone box. Be sure to hook the red clip to the red wire, and
the green clip to the green wire. (Tough, I know...) When you
listen to your handset, you should hear a dial tone. You can now
place or recieve calls. If you don't hear a dialtone, try
reversing the alligator clips, or try other screws, until you find
a combination that produces a dialtone. There WILL be one. Now,
an interesting fact that you SHOULD know already. Almost every
house or building that has a phone has one of those boxes outside.
Get the picture? You can open up anyone's box, and use their phone
line. Some older houses are "hardwired" to the phone line, and
there is no box. The wires usually connect near the roof of the
house, and they're just a bit out of our reach. So, you'll have to
find a house with a box if yours doesn't have one.
If you know the number for ANI (Automatic Number
Identification) you can dial it, and see which number you're
calling from. This is VERY important if you wish to recieve calls
while you're phreaking (keep the ringer volume down!)
On some telephone poles, you can find boxes just like those on
the side of a house. Simply connect your handset, and call away.
If there are multiple lines in the box, dial ANI to find out the
numbers, then call them, to see who lives there. In Lancaster Co,
and surrounding areas, ANI is 311. Just dial that, and a machine
will tell you the number you're calling from. That number probably
changes from area to area, so ask a few local hackers what the ANI
number is, and you should be able to find out. If not, try calling
the phone company, and worm the info out of them. If they say they
can't tell ya, call a friend who works for Ma Bell, and check it
out. Either way, ANI is a VERY handy number to have.
Now, back to the poles... I mentioned before that there are
boxes on telephone poles which hold connections. Mess with 'em if
you want, but be careful - remember - if the person who owns the
line picks up the phone, he's able to listen to any conversation
you have going on, and you CANNOT hang him up! So, if you call
your girlfriend who lives 3 counties away, while Frogging, and the
owner of the line you're using picks up his phone, he is now
listening to ya, and even if you hang up, he is still connected
with your girlfriend! NOT GOOD! It's a good way to get busted,
really! That's where the optional SPST (single pole single throw)
switch comes in. If you connect it between the box screw and the
wire going to his house, you can flip it and hang him up. His
phones will go dead, and it will give you a chance to disconnect
and get out of there! If you intend to use one particular line a
lot, I recommend hooking up a safety switch, as a precaution. (Be
sure to turn his line on again, though, before you take off, or
he'll get the phone company out there, and they will see your
little rig) It's best to do your frogging when the people are away
on vacation, or late at night, after they go to bed. (It's kinda
nice to be under the cover of darkness, too, as some kid standing
beside a phone pole in front of a house and talking on a phone is
probably going to draw attention from the neighbors).
Now, if you plan on calling a BBS, it's kinda tough to use the
Frogging technique, unless you have a laptop. You can use your
imagination, though, to figure out a way to get a full blown 386
and VGA monitor plugged in beside the road, so as to use the
frogging technique. Good luck, bud.
Frogging is basically for voice phone calls, which are to be
made long distance. Please remember, though, that the person who
owns the line you are using will get billed, and after a while
he'll start to get suspicious. Of course, if you hate the person,
find one of those 900 numbers that charges $30 the first minute,
and call it 5 or 6 times from his phoneline. NASTY!!
I have found that the best place to go beige boxing is
somewhere like an industrial park. They are usually deserted after
dark, and those big companies probably don't scrutinize the phone
bill very carefully, so they probably won't get suspicious too
fast.
Another thing to keep a lookout for are those 2 foot high
rectangular phone company boxes that you'll often find in a new
developement when there are underground phone lines. Those boxes
can hold from one up to about 20 different lines, and they are
really easy to get into. There is a bolt holding them closed, and
it's protected by a round disk, so you can't use a normal wrench to
loosen it. Well, use a pliers. Loosen the bolt, but don't take it
out. If it's loose enough to turn easily, you can open the box.
Simply pull up on the front panel, and walla, hacker heaven. If
you have trouble getting the thing open, get a bolt cutters, cut
the bolt, and use a screwdriver to open the thing up. I have yet
to find one that takes more than a minute to open... but the
first one took a while, until I figured out how to do it. Anyway,
once it's open, you'll see rows of connections, that are in this
setup:
O <-\
O <------\_____ One Line pair
O=bolt O <-\
O <------\______ Another line pair
O <-\
O <------\______ Third line pair
The lines are paired as shown. Try all possible line pairs,
because each pair of bolts could be hooked up. Also, try reversing
red and green wires for each pair, too, since there doesn't appear
to be any standard setup in these boxes. The nice thing about
these boxes is that they open up so many numbers, so you can use
the same box over and over, on different lines, and people won't
get suspicious as fast. Most of these boxes are REALLY close to
the road, too, and it's quite simple to park near one, hook up, and
sit in your car and talk on the phone! Keeps things more private.
Of course, if someone gets your license number, you're screwed.
There are literally MILLIONS of phone boxes out there, just
begging to be tapped into. Always be sure to choose one in a
secluded spot, and try not to be too obvious. Blend in... while
you're hooking up, keep an eye out for cars coming, and, worse yet,
people walking! If a car comes you can walk away, till it's out of
sight. Or, if you are in a car, pop off the right rear hubcap, and
throw it in your trunk, before trying to hook up. Then, if anyone
asks why you're parked there, say you lost the hubcap and are
looking for it along the edge of the road. it might seem like a
lot of trouble, but hey, it's a sure way to cover your butt! And
I'd rather pop off a hubcap than get fined a few thousand bucks for
violating federal wiretap laws, trespassing laws, and whetever else
they'd nail you for!!!
In summary: You now know how to beige box correctly. Don't be
afraid to experiment - phone lines don't contain enough voltage to
shock you, or blow up your phone. Play a bit, and learn. Above
all, don't get caught!
>><*><< DoctoR DiTTo >><*><<
[High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox]
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
Making a beigebox:
Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an
alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
Connecting the beigebox:
Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any
wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
house. Follow the wires, and find where they connect. The
telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small
finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you
like having a permanent orange afro.
When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should
run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box. Some
boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as
far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now,
you must open the box, and observe: you should see three bolts,
each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the
two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone. If you
do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections. By the
way, don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough
power in the phone lines to harm you.
After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even,
pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a
$100 dollar service charge for your enemy.
Use your imagination!
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
Black Box Plans
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
To all who dare --
What is a BLACK BOX? A BLACK BOX is a device that is hooked up to
your fone that fixes your fone so that when you get a call, the caller
doesn't get charged for the call. This is good for calls up to 1/2
hour, after 1/2 hour the Fone Co. gets suspicious, and then you can
guess what happens.
The way it works:
What this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from
dropping to 10v when you answer your fone. The line is insted kept at
36v and it will make the fone think that it is still ringing while
your talking. The reason for the 1/2 hour time limit is that the Fone
CO. thinks that something is wrong after 1/2 an hour of ringing.
All parts are available at Radio Shack. Using the least possible
parts and arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! And that is parts for two
of them! Talk about a deal! If you want to splurge then you can get a
small PC board, and a switch. There are two schematics for this box,
one is for most normal fones. The second one is for fones that don't
work with the first. It was made for use with a Bell Trimline touch
tone fone.
</> Schematic 1 for most fones <\>
</> LED ON: BOX ON <\>
FROM >--------------------GREEN-> TO
LINE >--! 1.8k LED !---RED--> FONE
!--/\/\/\--!>--!
! !
------>/<-------
SPST
Parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v LED
1 SPST switch
You may just have two wires which you connect together for the switch.
</> Schematic 2 for all fones <\>
</> LED ON: BOX OFF <\>
FROM >---------------GREEN-> TO
LINE >------- ---RED--> FONE
! LED !
-->/<--!>--
! !
---/\/\/---
1.8k
Parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
1 1.5v LED
1 DPST switch
Here is the PC board layout that I
recommend using. It is neat and is
very easy to hook up.
Schematic #1 Schematic #2
************** ****************
* * * ------- *
* --<LED>--- * * ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! <SWITCH> *
* RESISTOR ! * * ! ! ! *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
* -------- ! * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! <LED>! / *
* --SWITCH-- * * ! ! \ *
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
L * ! ! * F L * ! ! ! * F
I>RED- -RED>O I>RED- ---RED>O
N>-----GREEN---->N N>-----GREEN------>N
E * h * E E * * E
************** ****************
Once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out what
set of wires go to the line and which go to the fone. This is because
of the fact that LED's must be put in, in a certain direction.
Depending on which way you put the LED is what controls what wires are
for the line & fone.
How to find out:
Hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line
and the other for fone. *NOTE* For Model I switch should be OFF.
*NOTE* For Model ][ switch should be set to side connecting the LED.
Once you have hooked it up, then pick up the fone and see if the
LED is on. If it is, the LED will be lit. If is doesn't light then
switch the wires and try again. Once you know which are which then
label them. *NOTE* - If neither directions worked then your switch was
in the wrong position. Now label the switch in its current position as
BOX ON.
How to use it:
The purpose of this box is not to people who call you so it would
make sense that it can only be used to receive! calls. When the box is
*ON* then you may only recieve calls. Your fone will ring like normal
and the LED on the box will flash. If you answer the fone now, then
the LED will light and the caller will not be charged. Hang up the
fone after you are done talking like normal. You will not be able to
get a dial-tone or call when the box is on, so turn the box *OFF* for
normal calls. I don't recommend that you leave it on all the time, as
you don't want it to answer when Ma Bell calls!
[=-=================================-=]
[=-=] Presenting: [=-=]
[=-=] The !BLAST! Box [=-=]
[=-=] An *ORIGINAL* Box, [=-=]
[=-=] Designed And Invented By [=-=]
[=-=] (_> Shadow Hawk 1<_) [=-=]
[=-=================================-=]
Ever want to really make yourself be heard? Ever talk to someone on the phone
who just doesn't shut up? Or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? Well,
up until recently it has been impossible for you to do these things. That is,
unless of course you've got a blast box. All a blast box is, is a really cheap
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your
telephone. It works best on model 500 AT&T Phones, and if constructed small
enough, can be placed inside the phone.
Construction:
Construction is not really important. Well it is, but since I'm letting you make
your own amp, I really don't have to include this.
Usage:
Once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. There it
is. Now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (At least on crossbar.)
It seems that Illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to
pass right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling. When
you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works best if
the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric earpiece)
incredibly loud. This device is especially good for PBS Subscription drives.
Have Phun, and don't get caught!
(_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)
/-/-/-/-/-/-\-\-\-\-\-\
<:-\-Brown Box Plans-/-:>
\-\-\-\-\-\-/-/-/-/-/-/
(>Introduction<)
This is a fairly simple modification that can be made to any phone.
All it does is allow you to take any 2 lines in your house and create a party
line. So far I have not heard of Any problems with it from my friends that
have
set one up and I have not had any either. There is one thing that you will
notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with this
box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this
with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these boxes made.
I think that the convenience of having two people on line at any one time will
make up for the minor volume loss.
(>Phone Modification Instructions<)
Here is the diagram:
KEY:___________________________________
! PART ! SYMBOL !
-----------------------------------
!BLACK WIRE ! * !
!YELLOW WIRE ! = !
!RED WIRE ! + !
!GREEN WIRE ! - !
!SPDT SWITCH ! _/_ !
! _/_ !
!VERTICAL WIRE ! | !
!HORIZONTAL WIRE ! _ !
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|
---------------------------------------
In some houses the black and yellow are already wired in others you
will have to go out to your box and rewire it. A good way to figure out which
line is which is to take the phone you are looking for off the hook. Then you
only need to take the red and green wires entering your phone and hook them
to the different pairs of red and green going into the house. You can't hurt
anything in the phone or telephone by probeing. When you find the pair that
you want take the black from your line and attach it to the red of the other
line then take the yellow and attach it to the green line. Now you are all
set
to go. For people with rotary phones you can have one person call you then
place the second call out to the other person. Though not phreakers tool, the
brown box can be phun.
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
/=\ /=\
/=\ HOW TO MAKE YOUR FONE INTO A /=\
/=\ /=\
/=\ BUD BOX /=\
/=\ /=\
/=\ INVENTED BY /=\
/=\ /=\
/=\ DR. D-CODE & THE PIMP /=\
/=\ /=\
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
This box is quite similar to a beige box, except this is a portable unit.
It is extremely handy for free voice calls and tapping a near by house's line.
It's really easy to make so don't worry about it (unlike a blue box!).
MATERIALS: 2 Alligator clips
One piece fone or normal fone (one piece is easier!)
Soldering iron and some solder
Some good wire
PROCEDURE
1) Cut the wire that connects the fone to the wall. Inside there should be 4
colored wires. Yellow, red, green, and black. If the wires are not
colored, no need to get worried. The two in the middle are red & green.
Those are the two you need.
2) Make sure to keep about 1-2 feet of this wire connected to the fone unless
you want to use the other wire listed above. Now solder one alligator
clip to the green wire, and one the red.
3) If you're using the other wire, strip the ends and solder one end to of
each to the red and green on the fone, and one end to an alligator clip.
4) Go to a near by house and locate the little gray box. It's simple to
find, look by the gas meter. It should have the BELL logo on it.
5) To open this thing, put your hand underneath it and hit upward. You
should get contact with the bottom edge of it.
6) Now it should come open nice and easy. Look inside and you will see five
screws in this pattern:
* *
*
* *
7) The screw in the middle and the two on the left do nothing. (you may want
to check the two on the left, some people have a second line hooked up to
these two.) All you need to worry about are the two on the right. The
one in the top right-hand corner is usually the green, and the one in the
bottom right-hand corner is usually the red.
8) Clip an alligator clip to the corresponding terminals. (red to red, the
green to green.) You should get a dial tone. If you don't, switch the
alligator clips around. If you still don't get a dial tone (or someone's
conversation!) then the line has probably been disconnected or the fone is
off the hook.
IDEAS OF USE FOR THE BUD BOX
Get a lot of wire and run it into your house. Then you'll be an extension
of that line. The fone will ring and you can listen to everything that's
going on the that line.
You can call direct to any place using normal BELL service (gasp!). i.e.:
1-702-831-4263. The bill will be not be charged to you. It will be charged
to your neighbors (or whoever.)
If you want to have two lines to call (providing the house that the line
is from is always vacant.), you can just dial: 444-1787 and you should get a
recording stating what number it is. To test this, dial the number the re-
cording says, if it's busy, you're set.
This has been an HMH presentation--1985
DR. D-CODE & THE PIMP
The Charging Box (c) Stinky Pig Productions
---------------- --------------------------
What it does:
The Charging Box is used to indicate when a call is being charged
for and when it is not. Once installed, the box has two lights, a
green and a red. Green means free and red shows that you are being
stung by BT!
Components:
1 x green LED 1 x circuit board
1 x red LED 2 x 10K ohm (1/4 watt) resistors
2 x short lengths of wire 2 x small bulldog clips
Circuit Diagram:
| Line |
| (50v) |
|------ ------|
| |
|-----[]------O------|
| |
|-----[]------O------|
Where [] is a resistor and O is an LED.
NB. IMPORTANT! One LED should have it's anode towards the resistor
and the other should have it's cathode towards the
resistor.
Connection:
Build that onto the board and connect the two points marked line
to the wire, with the bulldog clips at the end. The box should now
be connected to the line in parallel with the phone.
Operation:
When the line is opened (Ie. the phone lifted) the green LED will
light (if the read one does then just reverse the polarity of the
box). Dialling numbers (by pulse) will cause the green LED to flicker
but while you are making free calls it should never go out and the
red LED will not light. As soon as the exchange starts charging for
your call, the green LED will go out and the red LED glow.
How it works:
As the LEDs are in opposite directions, only one can light depending
on the polarity of the current supply. This is exploited when
the exchange begins charging as the polarity of the line is
reversed.
Piggy The Pig
Jan 88.
Cheese Box
------ ---
A cheese box (named for the type of box the first one was found in) is a
type of box which will, in effect, make your telephone a pay-phone... this is
a simple, modernized, and easy way of doing it.
Inside Info: These were first used by bookies many years ago as a way of
making calls to people without being caught by the cops or having their
numbers traced and/or tapped.
* *
How to make a modern Cheese Box
* *
Ingredients:
------------
1 Call forwarding service on the line
1 Set of Red Box tones
The number to your prefix's intercept operator (do some scanning for this one)
How To:
-------
After you find the number to the intercept operator in your prefix,
use your call-forwarding and forward all calls to her. This will make your
phone stay off the hook (actually, now it waits for a quarter to be dropped
in). You now have a cheese box...in order to call out on this line, you must
use your red box tones and generate the quarter dropping in. Then, you can
make phone calls to people! As far as i know, this is fairly safe, and they
do not check much... although i am not sure, i think you can even make long
distance calls.
\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
\[____________________________[_ \ /
\[ The Chrome Box [_ A Portable Self-Contained Device
\[ 14-JUN-88 [_ / to Manipulate Traffic Signals \
\[ Outlaw Telecommandos [_ / by Remote Control \
\[ Modem Free Earth [_ / \
\[\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\[_ -=p*p=-
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Emergency vehicles in many cities are now using devices called OptoComs.
OptoComs are a system of sensors on traffic lights that detect a pattern
of flashes from vehicle-mounted strobe lights.
This flash pattern varies from city to city depending on the manufacturer
of the equipment used. Often the sensors are installed only at major
intersections. Nevertheless, the Chrome Box, which simulates these strobe
patterns can often be used to give your car the same priority as an
ambulance, paramedic van, firetruck or police car.
Because of the varying patterns on different systems this phile will
outline a general procedure for making the Chrome Box.
Decoding Flash Patterns:
First, you need to observe an emergency vehicle in action. You can wait
until you encounter one by chance, running out to see when you hear a siren,
or when you pull over in your car to let one pass by. You might wait
near a fire station for the next emergency to occur. Or, if you are very
impatient, you can summon one by calling in a false alarm (not recommended in
areas with limited services - that could divert attention from a real
emergency). If the OptoComs in your area are the kind with a pattern of single
flashes at a steady rhythm, you have merely to buy a strobe light at Radio Shack
& adjust the flash rate until you can induce a traffic light to change.
If the flash pattern is more complex, you can videotape the emergency vehicle &
then play back the tape in single-frame mode, counting the number of frames
between each flash. Each video frame is 1/30 of a second, using this you can
calculate the time between flashes in the pattern. Another way is to count the
number of flashes (or flash-groups) in one minute and use that to compute the
rate. Counting video frames will give you a good idea of the spacing of the
flashes in a complex pattern. For really accurate information, call the fire
station & ask them, or write to the manufacturer for a service manual, which
will include a schematic diagram that you can use to build one. A good cover
story for this is that you are a consultant & one of your clients asked you to
evaluate Optocom systems, or you could pose as a free-lance journalist writing
an article.
Modifying the Strobe Light:
You may not have to modify the strobe at all. But if you need a faster
flash rate than your strobe allows, open it up & find the large capacitor
inside. Capacitors are marked in microfarads, abbreviated as mf,mfd or ufd.
By replacing the capacitor with one of the same voltage-rating (usually
250 volts or more) and a SMALLER value in microfarads, you can increase the
flash rate. Halving the microfarads doubles the rate.
The other component that can be changed is the potentiometer (the speed
control device with the knob on it). Using a smaller value (measured in
ohms or Kilohms, abbrevaited with the greek letter 'omega' or the letter K)
will speed up the strobe. There may also be a resistor (small cylinder with
several colored stripes on it, and wires coming out of each end). Replacing
this resistor with one of smaller value will also speed up the strobe.
To generate a complex pattern, you will either have to design and build a
triggering circuit using IC chips, or rig up a mechanical device with a
multiple-contact rotary switch and a motor. It HAS been done.
To modify the strobe for mobile operation the simplest thing is to get a
110-volt inverter that will run off of a car battery by plugging into the
cigarette lighter & run the strobe from that. Or, you can figure out (or find
in a hobby electronics magazine) a strobe circuit that will run from batteries.
Battery-powered strobes may also be availble, either assembled or as kits.
Stealth Technology:
Most light sensors and photocells are more sensitive in the infrared area of
the light spectrum. Infrared (IR) is invisible to the human eye. Putting an
infrared filter over the strobe light may allow the Chrome Box to operate in
traffic undetected by police or other observers. IR filters can be obtained from
military surplus sniperscope illuminators, or from optical supply houses like
Dow-Corning or Edmunds Scientific Co.
Using the Chrome Box:
Mounted on your car, the Chrome Box can guarantee you green lights at major
intersections in cities that have OptoComs. Handheld Chrome Boxes may be used to
create gridlock by interfering with the normal flow of traffic. If you have
access to a window overlooking a traffic light, you can play pranks by switching
the signals at inappropriate moments, or you can plug the strobe into an exposed
outlet at a laundromat or gas station.
Some Decoded Patterns:
Torrance, California
Standard large Radio Shack strobe lights are used. Moderately fast rate.
* * * * * * * *
Manhattan Beach,CA
Flash-pairs in a 4:1 ratio, at a rate of 2 flash-pairs per second.
* * * * * * * *
<------ 1 sec ----->
******************************************************************
* Please add any new patterns or info you discover to this Phile *
******************************************************************
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/-/ The Clear Box /-/
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on
"Post Pay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't
require payment until after the connection is established. You pick up the
fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after
the person answers. If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to
the person on the other end-because your mouth piece gets cut off, but,
not the ear piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free calls to
weather or time or other such recordings). All you must do is to go to
your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor
amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction
pick-up would be hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation,
except that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being
called answers, the caller could speak through the little microphone
instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction
coil, and into the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast
through the phone lines and the other party would be able to hear the
caller. The Clear Box thus 'clears up' the problem of not being heard.
Luckily, the line will not be cut-off after a certain amount of time
because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. The biggest
advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this
type of payphone will most likely become very common. Due to a few things:
1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first service, 2nd,
it doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phone company) This
payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line is
different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone
does all the charging, not the company.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@ @
@ =->The Copper<-= @
@ =->Box<-= @
@ @
@ Concieved By @
@ The Cypher @
@ [001010]->[1101101] @
@ @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
Disclaimer (I know...):
This file is for informational purposes only. No use of this technique
is recommended for one of many reasons: 1) It makes other Phreaks & hacks
very upset, 2) It makes the Telco VERY upset, and you could be put away for
a LONG time if you dont know what youre doing. Telco employees could learn
something from the Copper Box. Well, anyway, off we go....
Purpose:
This box can destroy a phone company, no matter how big. You could bring
AT&T down to their knees! Only to be used by the most irate of Phracks,
it is intended for informational purposes only.
History:
This is really not a Box, but if you consider a Cheese Box a Box, then it
is. It was first concieved back in 1986 when a Phriend and I came up with
the idea while using a Copper-coloured fone, hence, a Copper Box.
Instructions:
You must obtain [1] extender, or phone company port, like an MCI or SPRINT
access number. [2] A hell of a lot of nerve, and vendetta towards the phone
company (phriend gets busted, rates increase, etc.) [3] a computer & modem
capable of autodialing [tone.]
Dial the number of the L/D service, then enter the code. Dial the number of
the service again, through the outdial number you are still on, enter code,
then dial again and again. You should hear, after a while (it will take a
long time for BIG companies) a slight high-pitched, unstable tone, that grows
louder and louder w/every dial. Once it gets so loud that it refuses to let
in any more sounds, you have just completed the first cycle of the Copper Box.
Leave line off-hook for about 10 minutes or until the tone seems to calm
down, or stop completely. Then, dial again and repeat over and over again
until when you dial a last time, it [the port] doesnt answer. You have just
killed a telephone company, extender, etc.
Theory of Operation:
What happens is that when the tone begins to rise, it is a result of cross-
talk feedback. The more you dial, the more it grows. In systems like these,
the small, sensitive equipment such as amplifiers, etc. begin to burn out as
a result of the feedback, damaging the equipment, and possibly starting a fire
at the location of the equipment.
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Crimson Box (*)
(*) Plans (*)
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
The Crimson Box is very simple device
that will allow you to put someone on
hold or make your fone busy with a
large amount of ease. You flip a switch
and the person can't hear you talking.
Flip it back and everything is peechy.
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Needed Materials (*)
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
[
(1) 100 ohm or less resistor
(1) SPDT toggle switch, On-On
(3) feet of good wire
Wire cutters
Solder and soldering iron
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
(*) Construction & Schemtaic (*)
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
First I will give you the schematic and
then I will explain what the hell is
going on.
[-----------black wire on line---------
--------+ red wire on line +------
--------!--+/\/\/-green wire---!------
--------!--! yellow wire-------!------
! ! !
+--!------+ !
+----+ ! +----------+
! ! !
1 2 3
Ok. The '/\/\/' is the resistor. And
'1 2 3' is the switch where the numbers
are the poles on the switch. Notice you
leave the black and yellow wires alone.
You DO NOT cut them!
[
Strip the red and green wires so you've
got about an inch of bare wire. Solder
some of the extra wire and follow the
schematic. You should have the resistor
on the green wire with an extra piece
of wire coming from one leg of it. The
other leg goes to the other end of the
green wire. You should solder the green
wire to the left pole of the switch and
the red to the middle and the other
end of the red to the right pole.
Now, lift up the phone. If all you get
is an annoying buzz then throw the
[switch and you should get a dial tone.
If not, don't worry and just follow the
instructions and schematic again.
_______________________________________
This has been an HMH presentaion-1985
Crimson Box - Written and created by:
Dr. D-Code
Watch for the upcoming Sand Box
______________________________________
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
/ How to build /
/ -%> Day-Glo Box <%- /
/ Written, typed, and conceptualized by /
/ John F. Kennedy /
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
-> Author's note:
Yes, yes, I know that this box is similar to several other boxes,
including the so-called "Bud box," and the "beige box." Well, my reason for
writing this version is because of the fact that once finished constructing
the box, the file does not contain very much information on usage. It is
beacuse of that reason that this file was written. By the way, call
Ground 0 at 988-4426. Thank you.
-> What is the function of a Day-Glo box?
Well, a Day-glo box will let you place calls for free with no time limit,
no possibility of a wiretap, and the calls can be placed from anywhere in the
world. Too good to be true, you say? Well, read on.
-> How does a Day-glo box work?
A day-glo box is very easy to make, and very inexpensive to build. It
works like this: On the outside of every home that has a phone, there is
something called "the outside connection box," which is where the house is
connected to Ma Bell's network. This ingenious device connects to a) your
phone, b) the victim's outside box. You should be starting to get the idea.
-> How do I construct a day-glo box?
Materials necessary: 1. Radio Shack modular conversion jack
2. A small experimenter's box (optional)
3. 1 foot of red wire. (better to overkill)
4. 1 foot of green wire. (same as above)
5. 2 medium alligator clips
Well, in order to construct this box, you will need all of the above
materials. Note that your wire does not necessarily have to be red or green,
but it is necessary that you be able to tell them apart. Also, you might want
to use thick, easily bent wire (audio hookup wire works best) instead of bell
wire. Now, on to the construction.
1. Remove the actual modular jack from the conversion box. This can be
done by pushing inward and then up, or you can just cut the plastic.
2. Remove the black and yellow wires from the jack. You can either clip
these or rip them out.
3. To your newly isolated jack, add the 1 foot wire extensions to the
respective wires. Soldering and then wrapping the connections with
electrical tape works best.
4. Next, solder the alligator clips to the extended wires. If you do not
wish to solder them, then just wrap the clips with the wire.
5. Now, place this newly made contraption into a box (optional). You may
need to drill a few holes, and possibly remove the alligator clips,
but you should have read this file first, anyway.
-> Wiring Diagram
Modular--------------Red-----+----Extension wire---------< Alligator
Jack --------------Green---+----Extension wire---------< Clips
Pretty easy, eh?
-> Usage of the day-glo box
The day-glo box will work with any phone. First, you need to locate a
house that has a phone. Next, (it's preferable to do this at night) go up
to the and locate the outside connection box. Pop the cover off. Locate
prong 3 and prong 4. You will attach the green wire clip to prong 3. The
red wire clip will go to prong 4. Now, plug your phone (preferably a
trimline or ranger) into your modular plug. You may now either listen in on
the call (wire tap) OR you may call out to anywhere in the world. If you
are really daring, you can bring your computer with you. Note: This box
may also be used in conjunction with the lunch box in order to make a
perfect phone bug.
-> Other neat things you can do with your new box:
1: Call 976 numbers. This should be done very frequently. Also, I find
that after finding the victim's outside box, several calls to the
gay hotlin will have interesting after-effects; namely, his parents
wondering about him.
2: Alliance teleconferencing can be accomplished quite easily. Try it!
Call 0-700-456-1000. Or, tell the operator you'd like to initiate a
conference.
3: Of course, you should place several calls to other countries. This can
be accomplished by looking in the front of your white pages for the
various country and city codes. You should be able to follow the
directions provided in there.
-> Using your box at apartments/community connection boxes:
Have you ever wondered what those 6ft tall cabinets with the bell logo on
them were for? Well, if you've never seen them, here's a quick description:
They are 6ft tall by 3ft wide, and painted the dull phone company green.
They can be opened quite easily with a 7/16ths inch socket wrench. After
turning the bold over the handle, turn the handle to the right and pull. It
should open, displaying over 100 different lines. Occasionally, you can find
tech. manuals and test kits inside. They are usually located near phone
lines.
Okay, now, once you have opened one of these calling cabinets, locate the
line of your choice. You will have to take out both the orange and the white
insulated screws. The purple and white wires should come off along with the
screws. The lines go out to the house, and the screw posts are the actual
line. Now, you should clip the alligators to the posts, with one part of
the clip on the insulation, and one inside the screw hole to insure the
best connection. Oh, if you want the home to remain connected, clip the
wires inside the hole using the alligator clips. By the way, the red
terminal on your box goes to the orange post, and the green one to the
white post... if that doesn't work, reverse the connection. Now, to find
out the number you have taken over, dial 380-55555555. Yes, that's eight
fives. A computer voice should tell you what number you are on. heh.
I hope you can take it from here. Oh, in apartments, you can find the
calling cabinet in the basement... remember, this is not your line, so do
anything you want. Call the President or something.
Disclaimer: I, John F. Kennedy, can not be held responsible for your actions
in any way. This file was written for informational purposes only,
and should not be used to make free phone calls. In downloading
or copying this file, you are agreeing to this disclaimer.
Special thanks goes out to: The Longshot, for sending me an old Phucked Agent
04 phile.
Topic for today: The Ditto Box
Written By : Dr Ditto of SOF
Definition: A special device for eavesdropping / recording phone conversations
Most people at one time or another want to listen in on phone
conversations... but, they often get caught if they pick up an extension
phone, or if they tap into a line with a beige box and a phone without a
mute button (God forbid!) Anyway, there are a few tricks you can pull so
as not to be detected while eavesdropping. The big thing is, you need a
phone which will NOT send ANY noise out through the line. Most modern
phones have mute buttons, but they are a pain, cause you have to hold them
in the whole time you're listening, and, they often cause "line noise" to
be passed over the phone. Also, the way a lot of "1 piece" phones are
designed, it's impossible to hold in the mute button as you pick up or hang
up the phone, which ALWAYS makes some kind of noise. So, here's a quick
and dirty way to "adjust" a phone, so it has a mute SWITCH, not button. A
switch is much nicer, because you can flip it off, and not have to hold it
the whole time you're listening. Also, a switch doesn't put out the line
noise like a push-and-hold mute button does, because there is no friction
which causes the contacts to rub.
Any phone can be modified in a matter of minutes, to have a mute
switch. All it takes is an SPST (single pole single throw) switch, and a
bit of wire. A soldering iron also comes in handy. Here's what to do:
1) Open the phone, and find the microphone (mouthpiece). On newer phones
this might be tough, since they are often 1 piece of molded plastic. On older
phones, the mouthpiece cover can usually be unscrewed, allowing easy
modification. It all depends on the phone, however. Anyway, open it up,
and find the wires leading to the mic.
2) Cut ONE of the microphone wires, and strip back the insulation a bit.
If there isn't a lot of extra wire running to the mic, you might want to
solder an additional 3" on to the wire you cut, to give yourself some working
room.
3) Find a convenient place on the phone to mount the SPST switch, and then
solder the wire you cut to the switch. This way, you'll be able to switch
the mic on and off whenever you want. Put the phone back together (TEST
your work first, though!) and you have a muteable phone. So, what do you
do with it?
Well, eavesdrop from an extension in your home, a beige box, or
wherever. The phone is silent, so you're pretty safe. Of course, you MAY
want to take it just a bit farther...
Since you have a special phone for eavesdropping, it would really
be nice to spice it up a bit. After all, it's hardly worth modifying a
phone just to add a mute switch. And it would seem pretty lame if that was
all I was gonna tell you in this file. Any moron with 3 brain cells could
figure out how to make a muteable phone. So, on to the INTERESTING stuff...
This is something I rigged up at home, and don't know if it's got an
official "box" color, or name, or whatever. I'm sure somebody somewhere
has done it, but since I never saw a file on it, I thought I'd write one.
Egotistical person I am, I'll call it a "DiTTo Box" - but for good reason.
See, it allows you to tape record any phone conversation, and also to
listen in at the same time, over a stereo or boom box. And, it uses the
muteable phone, above. Here's how it works:
All phones have a speaker in them, through which you hear the
person talking to you. What the DiTTo Box does is allow you to run the
signals through a stereo, and out the stereo speakers, instead of through
the phone speaker. To do this, you are going to need a phone dedicated to
DiTTo Boxing. Any phone will do, and you can modify it in 2 different ways
- you can make it a true DiTTo box, and it won't serve it's purpose as a
phone that you can converse on any longer, or you can make a "lower
quality" DiTTo Box, which you will still be able to use as a phone, but the
boxing quality will be slightly weakened.
The difference lies in whether or not you keep the speaker in the phone.
You can keep the speaker in the phone, and run wires from the speaker
terminals to the input lines of your stereo, and it WILL work, but the
sound quality over the stereo won't be as good. OR, you can remove the
phone speaker entirely, and in it's place connect 2 alligator clips, one to
each speaker output wire. This is a dedicated DiTTo Box. I chose to go
with the lower quality box, simply because I don't do a whole lot of
eavesdropping, and I only had 1 phone I could modify, which I also use for
beige boxing. Still, it serves my purpose both ways.
To get the box working, solder leads from the 2 speaker terminals
to alligator clips. Give yourself about 6-8 inches of wire at least! The
best length would be about 18 inches, if you plan on connecting to a home
stereo. Once the leads are soldered, you can connect them to the INPUT
jacks on your home stereo, or boom box. You can even hook them up in your car,
if your car has LINE IN or CD INPUT capability. Anyway, most stereos use
the RCA plug for connections. So, get an RCA plug off an old speaker or
something, and clip the alligator clips to it. Plug it into the stereo,
and set the selector on the reciever to accept input from the phone. Take
the phone off the hook, and you will hear a dialtone over your stereo
speakers. (yes, you MUST plug the phone into the phoneline for this to
work) Now, try dialing... you will hear the tones over the stereo. If you
have a tape deck on the stereo, you can record your phone conversations.
If you have a phone rigged up like this, and call someone, you can tape the
entire conversation, and they'll never know! Incoming calls are a bit
trickier, but they can be recorded too. The toughest part is trying to get
the stereo turned on and everything quiet before answering the phone, to
waylay any suspicion. Also, keep the stereo on LOW volume, to avoid
squealing from feedback.
There are lots of uses for a DiTTo box, and I've told only one or
two. You can use the box to record dialing tones on cassette, then carry
them with you, to be used in a cassette player at a payphone, whatever.
Plenty of possibilities exist, that's for sure. Just remember, phone
tapping and eavesdropping are classified as a FEDERAL OFFENSE, so it's best
not to get caught. Have phun, and party on!
---DoctoR DiTTo
Written by: Mavicon M.D.
Design: The Ear and Mavicon M.D.
Diverter Plans
Parts List:
Everything can be obtained at your local Radio-Shack. As much as
i hate that store, they are convenient...
RLY1 DPDT relay
T1 1:1 audio transformer
D1 1N914 or similar diode
D2 large LED
LMP1 neon lamp
R1 10 k
R2 photocell
R3 22 k
R4 47 k
Q1 2N2222, 2N3904, 2N4401, most any other NPN switching
transistor
1 nine volt battery. The negative terminal goes to ground on the
schematic. Positive terminal to +9 volts.
Black electrical tape
Assembly:
The best way to assemble the design is to grab one of those small
copper lined perfboards from Radio-Shack. They are nice to work
on, and can easily be trimmed down to a minimum size once
everything is soldered in. The process is the same as any other,
solder all the parts in per the schematic. The photocell must be
in a position so that the light from the neon lamp(LMP1) and the
LED(D2) both shine on it. No other light must get in, so use
some black electrical tape to seal it all up. All the polarity
must be observed. Whichever direction you put the LED in, you
must remember (color code your wires, green is positive, red is
negative, yellow is positive, black is negative) the negative
side of the line must go to its negative side. The same goes for
the transformer. The positive side of each line has to be
connected to the correct pair on the transformer. On the Radio-
Shack transformers, put positive of both lines on the Red and
Black pairs, The negative on Yellow and White. Our prototypes
have reached less that 1" x 1" in size.
Theory of Operation:
The diverter works on some basic electronic principals.
Step by step:
The phone rings. The neon lamp is activated by the high
voltage(88 p-p) ac and flashes. This light shines on the
photocell, decreasing its resistance. When this happens, the
positive voltage flowing through the photocell and the 10k
resistor exceed the breakdown voltage of the base of the
transistor and switches that transistor on. Once the transistor
is on, current flows freely from emitter to collector, energizing
the relay. The relay's two sets of switches connect both lines
to the 1:1 audio transformer, effectively taking both lines off
the hook and coupling any audio signals from either line to the
other one. Once this happens, current is now flowing through the
transformer, relay, and LED loop. This current lights the LED
and that light shines on the photocell. This is what keeps the
device latched. The light from the LED keeps the photocell
resistance low enough to keep the transistor on. Now, you make
your call and get on with your business. You hang up. Now, the
local CO keeps current flowing through the indial line for about
5 seconds, at which point it drops down for a second or so and
then goes back up. This is the signal the device uses to
determine when you've hung up. When the current drops down,
there is no light from the LED, and the photocell resistance
raises enough to turn the transistor off and delatch the entire
system.
Applications:
The applications are relatively obvious. Hook it up to two
unused lines and make free calls. Hook it up to two payphones,
and red box calls. The only thing to watch out for is ringing.
If you hook it up to a residential line for the indial a small
(maybe 1/8) of a ring occurs when you call, tipping off people
inside the house.
|-------------------------------------
| | o +9V
| L1+ T1 | |
| o-------wwwww----------| | |
| | | |
| L1- | | |
| o-------------| | | o--------|
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
| L2- | |---l----------l---------l--| _____
o-------\ LMP1 | | | \| | | w | /^\ D1
R4 47k * | | | | |\ | w | /---\
--\/\/--/ | | | | | | | w | |
| | |-l----------l-----------l--| |
| | | RY1 | | |
o L2+ |------| | | |
| | o---------
| | |
| | ----|
| D2 | /
| |\ | T1 | /
|----------| >|-----wwwwww---------- /
|/ | 000
|--------- 000 Q1
| 000
oooo | \
o o 10k | \
o-------o-/\/\/o------------/\/\/---| \
+9V o o R2 \ R1 |
oooo / 22k -----
\ R3 ---
| -
|
-----
---
-
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- T h e G R A B B o x -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
By: Shadowspawn (502)
This box is dedicated to all the people that can't solder
two wires together, nevermind a complete circuit... The GRAB
Box is probably the easiest box that can be made. It's also
one of the most useful! This box uses inductive coupling to
join with any radio that uses a coil for an antenna (such as an
AM, longwave, or shortwave radio) and allows you to lengthen it
considerably. I've seen these in DAK and other catalogues for
20+ dollars! Now DAK is a great company, but you can make one
or two of these yourself for under seven dollars!
Here's the schematic, get ready to be surprised:
O <---- Fahnstock clip
|
| _____ Variable
+--------------+------------+ \/ Capacitor
| |
~ +--)|-+
~ <--- Coil |
~ |
| |
+---------------------------------+
Things you'll need/specs: It'll look something like this:
+----antenna-----------o
- 365pF Variable Capacitor |
- Hand-wound coil: 1 inch dia. <C>F--/\--|COIL||--\
11 inches long with holes | \/--|||||||--/-+
2 inches from each end +-------------------+
and #22 enameled wire
wrapped between them.
- Three corner braces (brass)
- Four wood screws | Sand the enamel off |
- 1 x 3 x 13 or so baseboard | the ends of the coil |
- 30+ foot wire w/ alligator | the nearest end goes |
clip to attach to | to the F. clip, the |
Fahnstock Clip | farthest end to the |
- Fahnstock Clip | plate contact. The |
| antenna clip goes to |
| the F. Clip. |
Put this device next to the coil that's inside your radio.
(The Grab box doesn't need to be inside it though, just close by)
The closer you place it to your radio's coil, the stronger it is,
the farther away, the more selectivity it has. And don't forget
to peak the capacitor each time you change frequency...
You can usually pick up a few states around you during the
day and stations all over the US and elsewhere at night! Have
fun!!
Shadowspawn (502)
[ THE GREEN BOX : BIOC AGENT 003'S COURSE IN BASIC TELECOMMUNICATIONS/ PART6 ]
The Green Box generates useful tones such as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, and
RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to
the CO when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a
fortress station, but must be used by the CALLED party. The tones (hz) are:
COIN COLLECT700 + 1100
COIN RETURN1100 + 1700
RINGBACK700 + 1700
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO. This can be done
by sending 900 + 1500 Hz or a single 2600 Hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms
gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 ms. Also, do not forget
that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up.
We have taken this information and written a software green box for the Cat.
After a lengthy pause to admire first our interesting club title page, please
take a moment to marvel at the nice graphics used in the actual program. You
will then notice that there are four main options:
AWAIT CALLER: This option will set your system awaiting callers. When
someone calls, the Cat will answer the phone and send
the predefined signals, pause, and then hang up. You
should notice the status line and indecators at the
upper left hand corner. The status line shows you what
is happening at a given time. The indecators in the box
at the upper left hand corner represent:
L=20 Length of signal (default is 20).
C=00 Number of calls received.
HUNG/PICK The current phone status.
The AWAIT CALLER option has several nice applications:
1. Return your money to you when you call home.
2. Collect money from anyone calling from a payphone
so that they can't talk or anything. (nasty...)
3. After it hangs up on them, they will wonder what was
wrong with your phone. When the payphone starts
ringing, they will wonder otherwise.
COLLECT CONTENTS: This option will cause the contents of the "holding
chamber" to be dumped into the "main vault". It will
also cause the payphone to begin demanding more money.
RETURN CONTENTS: This option will cause the contents of the H.C. to be
dumped into the coin return slot, and so returning them
to the caller.
RINGBACK PAYPHONE: This option will cause the CO to call the payphone the
caller was calling from.
Other options of The Green Box include:
[P]ickup phone and [H]angup phone.
[D]ial (TOUCHTONE + BLUEBOX)
[T]ones - Mix & create your own tones.
[Q]uit - Again, you will be amazed at
the incredibly stupid graphics.
We would like to formally thank the authors of The Electronic Box because we
used the hertz/tone mixing routines from that wonderful program. Thanx guys!
///PAY TV DECODER PLANS///
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
1 - Radio Shack mini-box ( #270-235)
1 - 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k-2.4k ohm
(RS #271-1325)
1 - 75pf-100pf variable capacitor
(Hard to find)
2 - F61a chassis-type coaxial
connectors (RS #278-212)
12" - No. 12 solid copper wire
12" - RG59 coaxial cable
///INSTRUCTIONS///
1. Bare a length of No. 12 gauge solid
copper wire and twist around a 3/8"
nail or rod to form a coil of 9 turns.
Elongate coil to a length of 1 1/2"
inches and form right angle bends on
each end.
2. Solder the varible capacitor to
the coil. It doesn't matter where you
solder it, it still does the same job.
The best place for it is in the center
with the adjustment screw facing upward
Note: When it comes time to place coil
in box, the coil must be insulated from
grounding. This can be done by crazy-
glueing a piece of rubber to the bottom
of the box, and securing the coil to it.
3. Tap coil at points 2 1/2 turns from
ends of coil and solder to coaxial
chassis connectors, bringing tap leads
through holes in chassis box. Use as
little wire as possible.
4. Solder resistor to center of coil
and ground other end of resistor to
chassis box, using solder lug and small
screw.
5. Drill a 1/2" diameter hold in mini-
box cover to permit adjustment of the
variable capacitor from the outside.
Inspect the device for defects in
workmanship and place cover on mini-
box. Tighten securely.
6. Place device in line with existing
cable on either side of the coverter
box and connect to television set with
the short piece of RG59 coaxial cable.
Set television set to HBO channel.
7. Using a plastic screwdriver (non-matalic)
adjust the varible capacitor until picture
tunes in. Sit back, relax, and enjoy!!!
(%>+<------------------------------------------------------------------->+<%)
)+) The Crack Shop ! presents - Infinity Boxes - Uploaded by Iron Man (+(
(%>+<------------------------------------------------------------------->+<%)
This stuff from IRON MAN -- foratted 80 columns
In answer to all those who don't knowwhat an infinity transmitter is, here
is A little history:
A guy by the name Manny Mittleman ra a company called the wireless guitar
company located on Liberty St. In NY. Aide from wireless guitars, Manny also
built all sorts of electronic wireless bugs". One item, The infinity
transmitter was a device that was place inside an unsuspecting persons
telephone.
When the phone number of that telephoe was dialed and a certain note was
blown into the phone from a hohner, keyof-c, harmonica, the bugged phone did
not ring, and what's more, enabled the aller to then hear everything said in
he room that the phone was located in. As long as the caller wanted to stay
on the phone, all was open to him or he. If the phone was lifted off the
hook, the transmitter was disconected ad the "bugged" party received a dial
tone as if nothing was wrong with the lne.
Remember, all this was constructed inthe 1960x's when ic's were not as
commonplace as they are today. Also ber in mind that during that period in
time, even the telephone company was no quite sure on how well or how
portable tone decoding was.
Ps. Many government agency's were someof manny's best customers.
BUILDING A RED BOX
by J.R."Bob" Dobbs
Essentially,the red box is a device used to fool the phone company
into thinking you are depositing coins into a payphone. Every time you
drop a coin into a payphone, the phone signals the type of coin inserted
with one or more bursts of a combination of 1700hz and 2200hz. The tone
bursts are coded as follows:
Nickel:One 60 millisecond pulse
Dime :Two 60 millisecond pulses separated by 60 milliseconds
Quarter:Five 35 millisecond pulses separated by 35 milliseconds
HOW TO USE IT
-------------
Operation is simple. Simply dial a long distance number (some areas
require you to stick in a genuine nickel first), wait for the ACTS
computer to demand your cash, and press the "deposit" button on the red
box for each coin you want to simulate. The coin signals are coupled
from the red box into the phone with a small speaker held to the
mouthpiece. For local calls, either you must first deposit a genuine
nickel before "simulating" more coins or place your call through the
operator with 0 + 7d. Use some care when the operator is on the
line--sometimes they catch on to your beeper ploy.
CIRCUIT OPERATION
-----------------
Each time the pushbutton is pressed, it triggers half of IC1,
configured as a monostable multivibrator to energize the rest of the
circuit for a length of time determined by the setting of the coin
selector switch. This in turn starts the other half of IC1, configured
as an astable multivibrator, pulsing on and off at regular intervals at
a rate determined by the 50k pot between pins 12 and 13. The output of
the astable thus alternately powers of IC2, configured as a square wave
oscillator, providing the required 1700hz and 2200hz to the op amp which
acts as a buffer to drive the speaker.
CONSTRUCTION
------------
Assemble the circuit as you wish. Component placement is not
critical. I found the easiest method was to use point-to-point wiring
on a "universal" PC grid board with solder ringed holes. Use sockets if
you aren't a whiz with a soldering iron. Be sure to leave easy access
to the potentiometers for alignment.
ALIGNMENT AND TESTING
---------------------
For alignment, a frequency counter and tiggered sweep oscilloscope
are extremely handy (but not absolutely necessary.)
Install a temporary jumper from +9v supply to pin 14 of IC2 and
temporarily disconnect the 0.01uF capacitors from pins 5 and 9 of IC2.
Power up the circuit. Measuring the output from pin 5 of IC2 with the
frequency counter, adjust the 20k pot between pins 1 and 6 for an output
of 1700hz. Now adjust the 20k pot between pins 8 and 13 for an output
of 2200hz from pin 9 of IC2. Remove the temporary jumper and re-attach
the capacitors to pins 5 and 9. (Note: if no frequency counter is
available, the outputs can be adjusted by ear one at a time by
zero-beating the output tone with a computer generated tone of known
precision.)
Next, temporarily disconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10 of IC1.
Set coin selector switch in the "N" (nickel) position. With the
oscilloscope measuring the output from pin 9 of IC1, adjust the 50k pot
between pins 12 and 13 of IC1 for output pulses of 60 millisecond
duration. Reconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10. (Note: If no scope
is available, adjust the pulse rate by ear using computer generated
tones for comparison.)
The remaining adjustments are made by ear.
Leave the selector switch in the "N" position. Adjust the 50k pot
labelled "Dime" for a quick double beep each time the pushbutton is
pressed.
Finally, set the selector to "Quarter". Adjust the 50k pot labelled
"Quarter" until exactly 5 very quick beeps are heard for each button
press. Don't worry if the quarter beeps sound shorter and faster than
the nickel and dime ones. They should be.
CONCLUSION
----------
If all went well to this point, your red box should be completely
aligned and functional. A final test should now be conducted from a
payphone using the DATL (dial access test line) coin test. Dial
09591230 and follow the computer instructions using the red box at the
proper prompts. The computer should correctly identify all coins
"simulated" and flag any anomalies. With a little discretion, your red
box should bring you many years of use. Remember, there's no such thing
as spare change.!
Parts list for Red Box
----------------------
Semiconductors
--------------
(2)556 dual timer
(1)741 Op Amp
(1)1N914 Switching Diode
Resistors
---------
(6)10k (1)4.7k
(2)100k
(4)50k PC Mount Potentiometer
(2)20k Multi-Turn Potentiometer
Capacitors
----------
(10)0.01uF (1)1.0uF
(2)10.0uF Electrolytic
Miscellaneous
-------------
(2)14 Pin Dip Socket
(1)8 Pin Dip Socket
(1)3-position Rotary Switch
(1)Momentary Push-Button Switch(normally open)
(1)SPST Toggle Switch
(1)Speaker or Telephone Earpiece Circuit Board
Box
Mounting Hardware
9v Battery Clip
SCHEMATIC DRAWING
-----------------
/
ÚÄÄS1Ù ÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
+9v R1 R2 ³ ³ ³ ³
ÃÄÄÄC1ÄÄÄÄ´ ³ R3 ³ ³
³ ³ ÚÄÄÄ´ ÃÄÄÄÄÂÄC2Ä@q S3 @n ³
o ÚÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÁÄÄÄ¿ ³ R5 ³ @d ³ ³
oÄ´ ³ 6 4 14 ³ R4 ³ ³ ³ ÃÄÄ¿ ³
S2 o ÚÄ´5 13ÃÄÄÄÄ´ g ³ ÃÄÄÄ¿ ³ ³ ³
³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ R9<ÄÙ ³
g ÀÄ´10 (IC1556) 8ÃÄ¿ R6<Ä¿ ³ R8<ÄÄÙ ³ ³
³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³
ÚÄÄÄÄ´9 12ÃÄÁÄÄÅÄÄÙ ÃÄÄ¿ ³ ³ ³
³ ³ 3 11 7 2 1 ³ C3 ³ ³ ³ ³ ³
³ ÀÄÂÄÄÂÄÄÄÂÄÄÂÄÄÂÄÙ ³ R7<ÄÙ ³ ³ ³
³ ³ ³ ³ ÀÄÄ´ g ³ ³ ³ ³
³ C4 C5 ³ ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ ³
³ ³ ³ ³ C6 ³
³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³
³ g g g g ³
³ ³
ÀÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³
R11 ³ R12 ÚÄÄÄ¿ ³
ÚÄÄ¿ ³ ³ ³ ³ v ³
v ³ ³ ÚÄÄÅÄÄ¿ ÃÄÄÄÄÁÄÄR13ÄÄ¿ ³
ÚÄÄÄR10ÄÁÄÄ´ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³
³ ÚÄÁÄÄÁÄÄÁÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ ³
³ ³ 1 4 14 10 13 ³ ³ ³
³ ³ 8ÃÄÄÂÄÄÄÄ´ ³
ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄ´6 ³ ³ C12 ³
³ ³ ³ 12ÃÄÄÙ ³ ³
³ ÀÄ´2 IC2 556 ³ ³ ³
C7 ³ ³ g ³
³ ÚÄÄ´3 11ÃÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³
³ ³ ³ 7 5 9 ³ ³ ³
g C8 ÀÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ C11 ³
³ ³ C9 C10 ³ ³
³ ³ ³ ³ g ³
g ³ ÀÄÂÄÙ ³
g ³ ³
³ ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
³ ³ ³
³ R14 ³
³ ³ ³\ ³
³ ³ ³ \ ³
ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÅÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄij3 \³
³ ³ ³ 7 \
C13 R15 ³IC3 \
³ ³ ³741 6/ÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
³ ³ ³ 4 / ³
³ ³ ³ / ³
g g ÚÄÄ´2 / ³ ³
³ ³/ ³ ³
³ g ³
³ ³
ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
C14
³
Speaker
³
g
Schematic part variables list.
------------------------------
Resistors
---------
R1 - 10k R2 - 10k R3 -4.7k R4 - 10k R5 - 10k R6 - 50k
R7 - 50k R8 - 50k R9 - 50k R10- 20k R11- 10k R12- 10k
R13- 20k R14-100k R15-100k
Capacitors
----------
C1 - 0.01uf C2 - 1N914 switching Diode C3 - 1.0uf C4 - 0.01uf
C5 - 0.01uf C6 - 10uf C7 - 0.01uf C8 - 0.01uf C9 - 0.01uf
C10 - 0.01uf C11 - 0.01uf C12 - 0.01uf C13 - 0.01uf C14 - 10uf
Switches
--------
S1 - SPST toggle
S2 - Momentary push button N.O. labeled "Deposit"
S3 - 3-position rotary switch
Miscellaneous
-------------
g - Ground
@q - Label "quarter"
@d - Label "dime"
@n - Label "nickle"
Typed up by Sine Wave from an article which originally appeared in 2600
magazine. The original contained several mistakes in the schematic
drawing which i've corrected. Hope this information enlightens you to
new and exciting possibilities via your local phone booth.
How to make an in-use light
from the Night Owl AE
This file describes the operation and construction of a device that will
signal whether or not an extension of a particular phone line is off-hook. It
does NOT indicate whether or not a phone is being tapped, and will light
whenever any extension is picked up.
The principle under which this device operates is that there is a voltage
across the red and green wires of the phone line (the other wires are rarely
used) that drops significantly when an extension is lifted. Though this
voltage can be used to power a light on its own, the light would have to be of
a very low power consumption in order not to keep the phone off-hook, and it
would only light when the phone is on-hook.
A simple way to get around the above problem is to use a low current relay.
Radio Shack sells some nice 12VDC SPDT relays that work well for this purpose.
Don't buy the reed relays or the subminis; though you want a low current coil,
you also want the contacts to be able to handle a decent current. DPDT
(double pole, double throw) will also work, you just won't use the other
contacts.
For a 12 volt coil, the voltage will have to be dropped so that the relay will
function properly. The proper resistance is around 10K ohms, but it is best
to use a 5K ohm fixed resistor and a 10K ohm variable (standard values, any
combination that can cover the 10K range will work fine). Adjust it to
approximately 10K, or halfway for the combination above. Connect the
resistors in series with the coil, and we'll adjust it later.
Due to the nature of this device (or rather, its simplicity) it will operate
without having to be plugged into a phone, or vice versa. In other words, you
can plug it directly into a jack anywhere, and it'll work. You'll want to get
a modular plug that terminates in spade lugs for this purpose. Connect the
green wire to one side of the coil, and the red to the resistors (so that it's
all in series). If you don't have an extra phone jack, then you will want to
a) buy a Y connector so that two phones can be plugged into the same jack, or
b) get another phone jack and install it in the same box with the in-use
light, so that you can plug a phone into it. Just connect the spade lugs to
their respective colors.
For the light itself, you can use almost anything. Even a tiny light bulb and
a battery will work fine, but after about 5 hours of phone use, you'll have to
replace the battery. The best thing to use is a neon bulb powered by the 110V
power available most places. Buy ones with dropping resistors, or use a 220K
resistor for dropping. You should also get a panel lamp assembly to keep it
steady and make it look pretty. Since the current is relatively low, you can
use almost any power cord, or sacrifice an old extension cord. Connect it in
series with the NC (normally closed) contacts of the relay (in series with the
dropping resistor, of course).
Your circuits should now look like this:
/
--------RED----!---- 5k --- 10k -------O O-------------------!-----110V
/ | |
coil NC /
| |
-------GREEN---!-----------------------O O-- bulb --- 220k --!-----110V
Make sure that the phone circuit (left) and the lamp circuit (right) are
totally 100% separate, and in no danger of touching. Use wire nuts for all
connections in 110V that are not to a terminal post, and tape them. For all
wires that are exposed, use electrical tape or shrink-wrap tubing to insulate
them. Glue the relay to the box or mount it on a stable PC board.
If all looks well, hook it up. It should work immediately, but there are
three things that can go wrong: 1) The relay keeps the phone off the hook.
To remedy this, lower the resistance until it doesn't. If you can't lower the
resistance enough, then you are using a resistor with a high current coil and
you'll have to get one with a lower rating. 2) The relay won't close. The
solution for this is the same as number 1. 3) The relay stays closed. Raise
the resistance with the phone on hook until the light goes off.
When all is working, the lamp should be on when one or more extensions are
off-hook, and will be off when all extensions are on-hook. It will blink when
the phone rings.
This is a parts list:
1 box. Make it a nice one, preferably one with feet.
1 phone cord with a modular plug at one end and spade lugs at the other.
1 phone jack or Y adapter (optional).
1 power cord or old extension cord.
1 low current coil relay, double throw.
1 5K fixed resistor.
1 10K variable resistor.
1 neon bulb with dropping resistor.
1 panel lamp assembly. Some come with bulbs.
That's it. You may trade this file however you wish.
%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>
%> <%>
%> Making the <%>
%> <%>
%> Lunch Box <%>
%> ===== === <%>
%> <%>
%> Written, Typed and Created by: Dr. D-Code <%>
%> <%>
<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>
Introduction
===========
The Lunch Box is a VERY simple transmitter which can be handy for all sorts of
things. It is quite small and can easily be put in a number of places. I have
successfully used it for tapping fones, getting inside info, blackmail and
other such things. The possibilities are endless. I will also include the plans
or an equally small receiver for your newly made toy. Use it for just about
anything. You can also make the transmitter and receiver together in one box
and use it as a walkie talkie.
Materials you will need
======================
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip
(1) 25-mfd, 15 volt electrolytic capacitor
(2) .0047 mfd capacitors
(1) .022 mfd capacitor
(1) 51 pf capacitor
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor
(1) Transistor antenna coil
(1) 2N366 transistor
(1) 2N464 transistor
(1) 100k resistor
(1) 5.6k resistor
(1) 10k resistor
(1) 2meg potentiometer with SPST switch
Some good wire, solder, soldering iron, board to put it on, box (optional)
Schematic for The Lunch Box
===========================
This may get a tad confusing but just print it out and pay attention.
[!]
!
51 pf
!
---+---- ------------base collector
! )( 2N366 +----+------/\/\/----GND
365 pf () emitter !
! )( ! !
+-------- ---+---- ! !
! ! ! ! !
GND / .022mfd ! !
10k\ ! ! !
/ GND +------------------------emitter
! ! ! 2N464
/ .0047 ! base collector
2meg \----+ ! ! +--------+ !
/ ! GND ! ! !
GND ! ! !
+-------------+.0047+--------------------+ ! !
! +--25mfd-----+
-----------------------------------------+ ! !
microphone +--/\/\/-----+
---------------------------------------------+ 100k !
!
GND---->/<---------------------!+!+!+---------------+
switch Battery
from 2meg pot.
Notes about the schematic
=========================
1. GND means ground
2. The GND near the switch and the GND by the 2meg potentiometer should be
connected.
3. Where you see: )(
()
)( it is the transistor antenna coil with 15 turns of
regular hook-up wire around it.
4. The middle of the loop on the left side (the left of "()") you should run
a wire down to the "+" which has nothing attached to it. There is a .0047
capacitor on the correct piece of wire.
5. For the microphone use a magnetic earphone (1k to 2k).
6. Where you see "[!]" is the antenna. Use about 8 feet of wire to broadcast
approx 300ft. Part 15 of the FCC rules and regulation says you can't
broadcast over 300 feet without a license. (Hahaha). Use more wire for an
antenna for longer distances. (Attach it to the black wire on the fone
line for about a 250 foot antenna!)
Operation of the Lunch Box
==========================
This transmitter will send the signals over the AM radio band. You use the
variable capacitor to adjust what freq. you want to use. Find a good unused
freq. down at the lower end of the scale and you're set. Use the 2 meg pot. to
adjust gain. Just fuck with it until you get what sounds good. The switch on
the 2meg is for turning the Lunch Box on and off. When everything is adjusted,
turn on an AM radio adjust it to where you think the signal is. Have a friend
lay some shit thru the Box and tune in to it. That's all there is to it. The
plans for a simple receiver are shown below:
The Lunch Box receiver
======================
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor
(1) 51 pf capacitor
(1) 1N38B diode
(1) Transistor antenna coil
(1) 2N366 transistor
(1) SPST toggle switch
(1) 1k to 2k magnetic earphone
Schematic for receiver
======================
[!]
!
51 pf
!
+----+----+
! !
) 365 pf
(----+ !
) ! !
+---------+---GND
!
+---*>!----base collector-----
diode 2N366 earphone
emitter +-----
! !
GND !
-
+
- battery
+
GND------>/<------------+
switch
Closing statement
=================
This two devices can be built for under a total of $10.00. Not too bad. Using
these devices in illegal ways is your option. If you get caught, I accept NO
responsibility for your actions. This can be a lot of fun if used correctly.
Hook it up to the red wire (I think) on the fone line and it will send the
conversation over the air waves.
HOW TO BUILD AND USE A MAGENTA BOX.
Designed and Written by Street Fighter.
First of all I named this the Magenta Box because all of the
fags that made boxes, whose only purpose is adding a hold
button to your phone, used all of the fucking colors. I can
afford a fucking piece of shit Radio Shack 2-line phone with
hold. A box's purpose is to mess with the Telco., not to add
a fucking hold button to your phone. Anyway I will get on with
this.
PARTS LIST:
SPDT Miniature PC RELAY (about 9v, 500 ohm)
DPDT Miniature PC RELAY (about 6v, 500 ohms, 12 mA)
2000 or so uF electrolytic capacitor
1 meg resistor
.01 uF capacitor
  2 555 timer chip
2 diodes (1N914)
10 K resistor
1 K resistor
9 volt battery -w- clip
Pc Board
4 alligator clips
some kind of a box (small)
some 20 or 22 gauge wire to work with.
If you don't know how to put together a project by looking at a
schematic, then isn't the project to start with. I would ask someone
with some electronics knowledge to give you a helping hand. This
has to be put together on a pc-board.
Enough talk, now the schematic:
+9v
^
|
+---------------+----+----------------+
| |8 |4 |
| ------------ |
/ | |3 | |--|
\ | |-------------------->|---+------|\ |
1 Meg / R1 | | | | C| \|
(1000K)\ | | | - O|\ |
| | 555 | \ ^ I| \|
| | chip | 10 K / | L|\ |
| 7| | \ +------| \|
+------------| | / | |--|
| 6| |2 | |
+------------| |-------------+-------+ | NC
| ------------ | | +-o o o--<
| |1 |5 --------o NC | | | TIP #2
| | | --___ | | | NC
+ | | | ---o---+ | | | o o o--<
--- | ---.01 uF | | | | | RING #2
2000 uF -^- C1 | -^- --------o-- | --+ | | |
*see note | | | | | | |
| | | +-------|--|C | | | |
| | | | |\ |O +---+ | | |
| | | | | \|I | | | |
| | | | +---|--|L | | | |
+-------------+---+-------------------+-----------+ | |
| | | | |
----- | +-----------+-------------+ |
--- | | |
- +--/\/\/\----------+------------+
GROUND 4.7K | |
9V | |
| +------------< RING #1
|
|
+---------------< TIP #1
K E Y
~~~~~
NC - Normally Closed
--< - Alligator Clip
---
-^- Capacitor
->|- Diode
|
-
^ Diode
|
o o o
Contacts on relay. DPDT
o o o
--------o
___---o Contacts on relay. SPDT
--
--------o
-/\/\/\- Resistor
|
/
\ Resistor
/
|
Whew! Well, the schematic explains almost everything. It would be
helpful to you if you used one color for the line #1 clips and another
for the line #2 clips. It will work even if you get the ring and tip
mixed up, but you must get all of the clips on the right line. But,
to be safe, you could put tags on each clip labeling it RING #1, TIP #2,
ect.
Installation. Find one of those green posts that are about 3 feet high.
They are everywhere. Get a socket wrench to open it up. There will
be (a) row(s) of paired up posts. Each pair of posts represents a line.
YOU *MUST* KNOW THE NUMBER OF LINE #1. Sometimes the number is tagged
on to the pair of wires leading up to the posts, if so pick these posts
as your line #1. Then you can pick any other set of posts for line #2.
Now to the good part. Use of the the final product. When you call up
line one from your house you will get a dial tone almost immediately.
Using DTMF you can dial anywhere that the person who owns line 2 has
service to. Which means you can direct dial alliance, Australia, and
your favorite BBS for FREE.
The Telco. will undoubtably discover the device after 2 days, so post
the number on your favorite boards so you can abuse it while it is in
service. With a 2000 uF capacitor and a 1 meg resistor you will
get a 50 minute call before it disconnects you. By lowering the value
of the resistor and capacitor you can change the time to your taste.
So don't dial a wrong number, because you will have to wait 50 minutes
until it resets again. The formula for the time is the following:
2*R1 C1 C1 is in microfarads
---- * ---- R1 is in Kohms
100 10 See schematic for location of R1 and C1.
----------- = Minutes
60
The time produced by this formula is only approximate.
Well, that is one of the more complicated boxes to build. But it
is very useful and will pay for itself with its first use. It
would be wise to remove it before the Telco. finds it so you won't
have to make another, or install it on a line that belongs to a
family that is on vacation (GOOD IDEA)
Well, there it is. I hope it saves you a lot of cash.
_________________________
/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
| How to Build Your Own |
| |
| |\ /| _ __ |
| | \/ | |_| | | | | |__ |
| | | | | |_| \/ |__ |
| __ |
| | \ _ |
| |__/ / \ \_/ |
| | \ \_/ / \ |
| |__/ / |
| _________/ |
| |
\_________________________/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
____________________________
| Created by Captian Generic |
| With Help from The Genetic |
| Mishap. This File Created |
| November 24th, 1986, 19:08 |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Please bear with me, as the construction of this box will seem rather
silly. This box was found in a construction site. Or rather, it found
us at a construction site. We were using a $5 Radio Shack phone out of
a semi-completed office building. One afternoon during a holiday, and
immediately following a storm, we found our bus in shambles. To our
suprise, we also found that one of the phone connections we were tapping
had been draped through a murky puddle. The fact that suprised us even
more was that this line still worked and now posessed some great
capibilities.
Materials:
2 tupperware or similar 8oz contianers
1 small bag earth (dirt) (12oz)
1 pint water
2 lantern batteries
1 nine volt battery
1 battery clip
2 SPST switches
4 ounces of iron shavings
2 polar magnets
5 feet wire
1 set soldering equipment
This is the part you won't believe. Take the tupperware containers, and
fill them with a mixture of the earth and the iron shavings. Make sure
that the mixture is well done. (*NOTE* for best results, use the sand in
fine ash trays.) Cut the cut the red and green wires and splice the
switches into them. From the switches, solder wire to the magnets.
Connect the red to the + (positive) side of one magnet, and the green to
the - (negative) side of the second magnet. From the other poles of the
magnet, solder wires the battery & clip. Make sure the + (positive) and
- (negative) are correct. Set the nine-volt battery between the two
tupperware containers and place the battery end of the two magnets into
the tupperware. Now connect wire to the two poles of the lantern
battery, and place them in the same containers as the poles of the
magnets/9-volt battery. You are almost done. Finally, add just enough
water to the two pots, and let them sit in the sun and bake like bricks.
at this point, you have a MAUVE BOX.
Explaning and Using What You Have:
The red and green wires have been places into a magnetic field which is
being charged continually be a lantern battery. (It is necessary to
change this battery every one to one and a half months.) This will
literaly pull in the nearest phone conversatiion. (Don't try this in a
big apartment or dorm.) When the 9-volt battery is connected, this will
now create enough current for the poles of the magnets to reverse
themselves (perhaps you're seen Mr. Wizard do this. It's just like with
the soap). At this point, you have a phone transmitting to one (if not
more) of the nearest phones. (Again, if you're in a dorm, don't try
this.) I suppose this just accomplishes what a tap would do, but with a
MAUVE BOX, your fingerprints never will show on a terminal or on
someones telephone lines.
Notes and Addendum:
This will only work with a touch-tone phone connected to a phone line.
When the switches are pulled, it's off your line and into the air. This
is named a MAUVE BOX, becuase this is the most disgusting box, and I find
mauve to be the single most disgusting colour I know of. Also, this file
is for information purposes only. This is not to be used in an illegal
mannar. Perhaps one of these by the pool, sending to your sethe co-author, accept no
responsibility for your actions with the MAUVE BOX. Thank you...
--------------------------------------
THE NEON BOX
--------------------------------------
A neon box is a very simple adjustment to your fone, that will allow a very
clear passage from your computer tones to your fone. It also works great for
recording tones, sex fone, or anything else you want to record off of your
fone.
Tools:
------
This modification is very simple, and can be used on most fones, though it
is more difficult on one-piece units. All you need is an old pair of
headphones, or similiar,a phillips screwdriver, a soldering iron and some
solder.
Instructions
------------
Open your fone with the screwdriver. When opened, look for the red and
black wires that lead to the mouthpiece. (If you're not sure which
wires lead to the mouthpiece, open up the mouthpiece and find the same
color wires on the base. For one-piece units, just locate the louthpiece).
When you have found the mouthpiece, or wires. cut the ears of the head-
fones off, and one wire (The one that leads to the right ear). Strip the
left wire so about an eighth inch is showing. Keep the other side intact.
Then on the red wire. solder the wire that is seperatly sealed from the
other one. On the black wire (these are the ends of the wire on the circuit
board) solder the wire wrapped around the other wire. The solder a hole for the
wire. You now have a neon box.
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
(> <)
(> Olive Box Plans <)
(> <)
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
This is a relatively new box, and all it basically does is serve as a phone
ringer. You have two choices for ringers, a piezoelectric transducer (ringer),
or a standard 8 ohm speaker. The speaker has a more pleasant tone to it, but
either will do fine. This circuit can also be used in conjunction with a rust
box to control an external something or other when the phone rings. Just connect
the 8 ohm speaker output to the inputs on the rust box, and control the pot to
tune it to light the light (which can be replaced by a relay for external
controlling) when the phone rings.
______________
| | ^
NC --|-- 5 4 --|-----/\/\/------->G
| | / R2
G<----)|----|-- 6 3 --|-- NC
| C3 | U1 |
-------|-- 7 2 --|---------- --- -- - > TO RINGER
| |
----|-- 8 1 --|--
| |______________| |
| ---/\/\/----|(----- L1
| R1 C1
------------------------------------------ L2
a. Main ringer TTL circuit
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
_
FROM PIN 2 < - -- --- ----------| |_| |------------->G
P1
b. Peizoelectric transducer
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
__ /|
FROM PIN 2 < - -- --- ---------|(---------. .-------| |/ |
>||< |S1| |
>||< --| | |
>||< | |__|\ |
G<---------.>||<.--- \|
T1
c. Elctro magnetic transducer
Parts List
----------
U1 - Texas Instruments TCM1506
T1 - 4000:8 ohm audio transfomer
S1 - 8 ohm speaker
R1 - 2.2k resistor
R2 - External variable resistor; adjusts timing frequency
C1 - .47uF capacitor
C2 - .1uF capacitor
C3 - 10uF capacitor
L1 - Tip
L2 - Ring
L1 and L2 are the phone line.
Shift Rate:
-----------
This is the formula for determining the shift rate:
1 1
SR = --------------------- = ------------ = 6.25 Hz
(DSR(1/f1)+DSR(1/f2)) 128 128
---- + ----
1714 1500
DSR = Shift Devider Rate ratio = 128
f1 = High Output Frequency = 1714
f2 = Low Output Frequency = 1500
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$$ $$
$$ ***************** $$
$$ * How to make a * $$
$$ ***************** $$
$$ $$
$$ <> Pearl Box <> $$
$$ $$
$$ Written and created by: Dr. D-Code $$
$$ $$
$$ (Sysops may use this information if it's not altered in any way at all) $$
$$ $$
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
[
The Pearl Box:Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes
which produce tones in herts. The Pearl Box when operated correctly can pro-
duce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other crucial
tones are obviously in its sound spectrum.
Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box:
========================================================
C1, C2::::::::.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk capacitors
Q1::::::::::::NPN transistor (2N2222 works best)
S1::::::::::::Normally open momentary SPST switch
S2::::::::::::SPST toggle switch
B1::::::::::::Standard 9-Volt battery
R1::::::::::::Single turn, 50k potentiometer
R2:::::::::::: " " 100k potentiometer
[R3:::::::::::: " " 500k potentiometer
R4:::::::::::: " " 1meg potentiometer
SPKR::::::::::Standard 8-ohm speaker
T1::::::::::::Mini transformer (8-ohm works best)
Misc.:::::::::Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC board or perfboard, box to
contain the completed unit, battery clip
Instructions for building The Pearl Box:
========================================
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY diffucult to explain in words, you will be
given a schematic instead. It will be quite diffucult to follow but try it any
way. There is also a Hi-Res picture you can get that shows the schematic in
great detail.
[ (Schematic for The Pearl Box)
+-------------+------------+---------+
! ! \ +--S1----
C1 C2 \ SPKR
! ! + +--------
+ + ----+T1 +
!\ +---------------+------+
! b c-------!
! Q1 !
! e-----S2---+ !
! ! !
! B1 !
! ! !
! +-------+
[ !R1 R2 R3 R4!
/\/\ /\/\ /\/\ /\/\
+--+ +--+ +--+
Now that you are probably thourghly confused, let me explain a few minor de-
tails. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the left pole is connected to
the center pole of the potentiometer next to it. The middle terminal of T1 is
connected to the peice of wire that runs down to the end of the battery.
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:
===================================
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this job
alot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the potentiometers may be useful
too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs.
R1 is the knob for the ones place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the
[hundreds place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the all
the tones and S2 is for power.
Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone.
(Example: For 2600 hz- R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)
Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VWALA! You have the tone. If you don't
have a tone recheck all connections and schematic.
**************************************************
* +++++ ++ ++++ ++ +++++ ++++++ ++ ++ *
* ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ *
* +++++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++++++ ++ ++ +++ *
* ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ *
* ++ ++ ++ ++++ ++++++ ++++++ ++ ++ *
**************************************************
By: Fugazi/(I)nte(G)rit(Y) 1992
Internet: 71062.1560@COMPUSERVE.COM
Disclaimer:
I take no responsability for the way this document is used. This document is
for informational purposes only. The FIRST AMMENDMENT of the CONSTITUTION of
the UNITED STATES of AMERICA gives me the right to publish this text.
Supplies:
1 unfolded paperclip
1 nail or something equal
1 piece of 1 inch electrical tape
Use:
This is one of the most simplest but most handy tools of the trade. It has
been passed down for years and now I wrote a text file one it because most that
I have read about this are very scetchy and incomplete.
This "BOX", which really isn't anything electrical at all, will enable you to
make a free local (not sure about Long Distance) phone call from MOST bell pay
phones.
Instructions:
1) Unfold the paperclip so it is a straight wire, then wrap the middle of the
unfolded paperclip with the tape. As shown in Fig. 1
Fig. 1
------======-------
^Wire ^Tape
2) To identify what phone to use look for the little holes next the the "25"
by the coin slot, or below the keypad under the "0". As shown in Fig. 2
Fig. 2
=========== / = Coin Slot
= / = o = Hole
= o = || = Coin Return
= 123 =
= 456 =
= 789 =
= *0# =
= o =
===========
= || =
===========
3) Now you must take the handset of the phone and puncture the metal guard
inside the microphone with a nail or any other sharp pointed narrow object.
Becareful not to puncture the objects below the metal plate/guard. The best
place to do this is through the BOTTOM MOST hole on the microphone as shown
in Fig. 3
Fig. 3
Microphone End
+++ X = Where to punch through
++ooooo++
++ooooooo++
++ooooooo++
++ooXoo++
+++
4) Now connect the handset to the phone as shown in Fig. 4 by using the
paperclip. To do this you must insert the paperclip into the hole you
created in the handset and then insert the other end of the paperclip into
the hole on the phone. Make sure you hold onto the tape on the paperclip.
You should see some small sparks when you connect them.
Fig. 4
======= +++
======= +++
======= +
======= +++
=======--+++
=======
=======
5) Now dial the number while these are connected and hold the connection for
about 5 seconds after dialing. Then pick the phone up and take out the
paperclip and well free phone call!...
=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
=/=> How To Build A Pink Box <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=> Written By Baba O'Riley <=\=
=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
The function of a Pink Box is to add a hold button that allows music or
anything else to be played into the telephone while the person is on hold.
This box can either be built right in the telephone or as a seperate box.
\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Materials Needed <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
some Bell wire or phone wire
a SPST momemtary switch RS # 275-1547
one resistor, 470 ohms RS # 271-019
one LED, 5 volts RS # 276-041
one SCR, number 2N5061
audio transformer (Ratio 10K:600)
RCA phono jack RS # 274-346
screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, etc.
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Construction <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=
1. Open the wall box and locate the RED and GREEN wires.
2. Take a piece of RED wire, strip the end, and attach it to the red lead on
the wall box. Do the same for the GREEN.
3. Connect the GREEN wire to the ANODE end of the LED.
4. Connect the CATHODE end of the LED to the UPPER pin of the primary side of
the transformer (See diagram below).
_____
To one phono pole ---! Top !--- To CATHODE of LED
-!View !- Primary side
To other phono pole ---!_____!--- To pole or trans. & one pole of switch
5. Connect the pin directly across to one pole of the phono jack.
6. Connect the RED wire to one side of resistor and to the C pole of the
transistor.
7. Connect the open pin of the switch the other side of the resistor and to
the G pole of the transistor.
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Wiring Diagram <=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
RCA Jack Transformer LED
_____ C A
Pole of Jack --/---! Top !---/--(*)--\------GREEN wire
-!View !- Primary --I---RED wire
Pole of Jack --/---!_____!---/-I (O)
I I
I [--I-----Pole of Switch
I
I--------------Pole of Switch
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Key To Symbols <=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
-- Wire
I Connection or wire
/ Connection or wire
_/ C pole of transistor --(*)--
[_)-- G pole of transistor I
I A pole of transistor (O) Resis
I
_____
---! Top !---
-! View!- Primary Transformer
---!_____!---
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=> Use Of The Pink Box <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
Hook the RED and GREEN wires up to the appropriate terminals and hook the
RCA jack to the output on your stereo. Turn on your stereo at a good volume.
Now call a friend. To test the Box, hold down the switcn and hang up the
phone. The LED should go on and your friend should hear music. If nothing
happens, start over. The hold is shut off if you pick up a phone on that line
or your end hangs up.
Brought to you by: The Crack Crew Written by: Baba O'Riley
How to Construct a Purple Box.
------------------------------
The Purple Box is very simple to construct. It takes only six components
and a PC board if you want. The Purple Box is a telephone hold button. It
will allow you to switch phones very easily.
A red LED indicates when a party is on hold and is automatically
extinguished when either party releases the line.
To install your Purple Box, remove the telephone case and locate the red
and green wires. From the green wire, make a connection to L1 and from the
red
wire a connection to L2.
To test the circuit, call a friend and then while pressing the push
button, hang up the phone. As soon as the phone is on the hook, you may let
go
of the push button.
Parts:
D1 = Light Emitting Diode (LED)
D2 = 1N4003 Diode
R1 = 820 ohm 1/2 Watt
R2 = 1K ohm 1/2 Watt
S1 = N.O. Push Button S1
SCR1 = C106B1 __|__
+--o o---+----R1----+
| g| |
+--------LED--R2---+-------a--+--c--D2---+
| |
|L1 SCR----/ |L2
| |
To Green To Red
The SCR is a three prong IC. The a,g, and c tell you what pins to use. The
"g" pin is the one on the left if you look at the numbers.
Have Phun,
The Flash
***********************************************************
*
MEMBER NAME: RAZZBOX *
*
***********************************************************
_________________________________________________________________________
| |
| A Crime Ring G-File Production |
| __ __ |
| |__| The Razz Box |__| |
| |
| Written by The Razz |
| |
| -:+ Released by The Magnet +:- |
|_________________________________________________________________________|
Introduction:
So you want to be James Bond eh? So you want to be a private eye eh.
Well here's your chance to pick up some very important clues or ideas using
your neighbors telephone line. Forget about climbing a telephone pole this
sort of boxing can be done on the ground.
Purpose:
To tap your neighbors line without your neighbor knowing it. You can
also make FREE (let me repeat that) FREE!! Phone calls to your favorite
K-RAD-GNEW-WAREZ boards.
Materials:
1. Line Man's headset (no you can't buy one that's why we're making one you
IDIOT)
2. Alligator clips (clips is Plural so you need Two)
3. A phone (preferbly one of those one peice kind that like the ones with the
numbers and the thing the hangs up on the ONE phone piece)
4. A Telephone wall jack box or whatever they're called
5. Some green and some red wire
6. Some intelligence (very Much needed)
Plans:
First hook up your one piece phone to the wall jack box. Then take
the alligator clips and attach red wire to one and green wire to the other
one. You should have 2 alligator clips with wire attached. Now strip the
wire and open the Wall jack box you have and attach the red wire with the
red screw on the box and the green wire with the green screw on the box.
Your stuff should look like this.
_______
| ... | <--one peice phone
| ... | __________________
| | | | <--oversize box to show
| 123 | | (*)r--- (*)b | the detail
| 456 | _| | |
| 789 | ()()()|_ | |
| *0# | () | ---- | |
| ... | () | (*)g| | (*)y |
|_______| () |_______|_|________|
() () | |
() () green wire--> | | <--Red Wire
()() | |
| |
\/\/\/ /\/\/\
Hints:
\/\/\/- Green wire Alligator clip
/\/\/\- Red Wire Alligator Clip
Using Your newly made device:
Now that you have made or created your little Razz Box then you are
ready to go outside and do your stuff. First go to a neighbor's house and
find the black telephone wires. They should look like Example #1. Then cut
off a bit of the plastic covering so the alligator clips go in easier and
you now stick the alligator clips one on the right and one on the left side
of the plastic wire as shown on the diagram. The Black plastic wire should
look like the diagram. You should get a dialtone. If you do not then switch
the alligator clips around till you do. Remember your neighbors can hear you
as well so get one of the phones with the MUTE option so you can plug into
theres quietly.
| || |
| || |
| || | <<<----black wire
| || |
\/\/\/||/\/\/\ <<<---alligator clips.
| || |
| || |
Disclaimer:
I as writer of this file take no responsibility at all (And I repeat
NO RESPONSIBILITY) of this file. This File is ONLY for informational purposes
ONLY.
If you have any question, suggestion, or correction, you can contact The Razz
or me, The Magnet, at any of the boards listed at the end of this file.
Copyright [12] Nov, 1988
-:+ The Magnet +:-
Crime Ring International
The Razz
Red Box Intro File
The Red Box is an electronic device that mimics the pulsed beeps produced in
payphones (fortress phones) when one drops coins in to make a phone call. The
objective is to make free phone calls. The red box may be an electronic
oscillator that produces the right tones, or a high grade taperecorder in which
previously recorded tones are played back. For recording, the tape recorder
connected directly to the phone line to record the coin sounds-not accoustically
coupled. A phriend calls from a payphone. When the phreaker answers, the phriend
deposits coins into the payphone while the phreaker recordes the beeps. The
phriend can't hear the beeps because the earpiece is muted during coin deposits.
Later, the phreaker plays back these sounds to stimulate his own coin deposits.
Note, that Red Boxes only work on single-coin-slot payphones-not the old ones
that have three round coin slots at top.
The tone's intervals are not generated by the coins pushing levers on the
payphone mechanism as most people believe, but by a small relay which reverses
the direction of the wheel that the levers cock.In other words, when a coin is
dropped by the operator, it pushes a plastic vane lever which cocks a wheel.
The coin than drop into a drop chute, and the signal goes thru a 70msec delay
to allow the coin to clear the mechanism. Then, a unijuncyion transistor (UJT)
circuit pulls in a relay solenoid, which unwinds the wheel until it returns to
the start position. The number of times the relay ticks, while pulling the
wheel, is the number of beeps. If the wheel went five notches forward, a switch
drops, programming the unit to do 35msec beeps (quarter). However, regardless
of the coin used, the first beep will be delayed 70msec to permit the coin to
clear the mechanism. See the figures for the precise waveforms. These beeps are
critical. If not precisely produced, fraud will most likely be suspected! If a
taperecorder is used, it must be a high quality one that runs 7.5 IPS.
When you drop in more than one coin, the beep combinations are appended to each
other, as far as waveforms go, but the total number beeps indicate to the
operator the total number of nickel-units deposited.
A Shadows of IGA Production...
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})
({}) ___ __ ({})
({}) Introducing: | |_| |_ _ _______ _____ ____ ({})
({}) | | | |__ | \ / \ / \ | _/ ({})
({}) _ _|_____/ | | | |_/ ({})
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({}) | \ | | | | \_ ({})
({}) | \ \_____/ \____/ | \ ({})
({}) _ _______ _____ _ _ ({})
({}) | \ / \ \ / ({})
({}) _ _|_____/ | | \/ ({})
({}) | \ | | /\ ({})
({}) _ _|_____/ \_____/ _/ \_ ({})
({}) ({})
({}) Created & Designed By Video Vindicator ({})
({}) ({})
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})
INTRODUCTION
------------
And now for all you basement engineers... Here's the ROCK BOX! Basicly what
the Rock Box does is channel the music from the stereo out to the phone line
via the headphone output. There are two models to this Box, the Basic Box
and Advanced Box. I would recommend the Advanced Box for better sound
quality, although the Basic one get's the job done. Well... Enough for the
formalities, now for the Advanced Box!
Identification Materials Specification
-------------- --------- -------------
A 1 Resistor (Brown-Black-Red-Silver)
B 1 Resistor (Orange-Orange-Orange-Gold)
C 1 Resistor (Gold-Red-Red-Grey)
D 1 Resistor (L.Green-D.Green-Brown-Gold)
E 1 Resistor (Brown-Red-Red-Gold)
F 3 Condensators (1070 (50v))
G 4 Condensators (1002 (40v))
H 1 Condensator (1060 (16v))
<*> (Also S) 2 Switches (2-Channel)
^#^ (Also K) 1 Transformer (LUN5250B)
~o~ 1 LED Light (Optional)
J Junction
Wiring Diagram -Advanced
Switch for Volume Hi/Lo Switch for Power On/Off
_______________________________________________________________
| +---------+ |
| +-----------+ C-B-A +-------+ J J +--------+ |
| | S-S-S-O | | +-S-S | S--------+ +---------> > | IN
| | | | | +-S+ O +-------------> >-+ |<LINE
| +O S S-S+ | | O | S-S +----------------------+ | |
| | | | C | | +------G-G J+ J--------O | | |
| | | O-+ | | +C | O---------+ | | | |
| | +-+ | O B | | G +----------G-G G+ | | ++ | |
| | ++ | | F | FG O-G+ | | | | |
| < O | | O+ +-------+ O +-----+ | | | O+ | | OUT
| | D+ E--O | O------+ K +O O | > >+ | |<LINE
| +--+ | +----------O +----+ | | |
IN | | | F F--H----------~o~ +--> >-+ |
FROM |<| +----+ F H |
STEREO>| | < | F-----------O-----KKK KKK |
| +------D--E-+ ^#^ K ^#^ |
|_______________________________________________________________|
Wiring Diagram -Basic
___________________________________
| |
| <------+ F--KKK--H +---> |
| | | ^#^ | +----> | OUT
IN | <------*----+ +------* |<LINE
FROM | | +----> |
STEREO>| <------+ +---> |
|___________________________________|
Now some of the Benifits of this wonderful little device is that you can
record conversations, at whatever volume you want, without those bothersome
beeps the answering machines make. Or another fun thing is call up a Rodent
Bridge and blast this thing with your stereo at full... Wala! The bridge
will most likely be clear, even they won't sit through that shit. It is a
good idea to hit Radio Shack for a project box and soderless curcuit board,
because this can be messy and a project box can easily make you look like a
pro. One more use for it is if your computer can generate tones to match a
Box of some sort, this makes a GREAT amplifier for it, with almost no loss in
clearity. If you have any problems with a humm or it intercepting radio
transmittions, then call up good-old Bell and get a line static clearer dealy
and splice that into the box via the outgoing line, which SHOULD clear it up.
If that does not seem to help, try putting a 9v battery (you know, the square
ones) on the red and green phone lines, because this will make up for the
power the box drains from the line. Hope you enjoy the plans and Be watching
for more from me! L8r...
The Video Vindicator
5/09/91
-----------------------=======< Sanctuary >=======-------------------------
Productions
Presents.....
(Reprinted, (c) 1990, 2600 Enterprises, Inc. Volume Seven, Number Three
Autumn, 1990.)
Typed by Havok Halcyon...
Converting a Tone Dialer into a Red Box
=======================================
by Noah Clayton
A very simple modification to Radio Shack pocket tone dialer part #43-
141 ($24.95) can make it into a red box. The modification consists of
changing the crystal frequency used to generate the microprocessor's
timing. To make this modification you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a
flat bladed screwdriver, a soldering iron, a pair of long nose pliers, a
pair of wire cutters and a 6.5536 MHz (megahertz) crystal.
Orient the dialer with the keypad down and the speaker at the top.
Remove the battery compartment cover (and any batteries) to expose two
screws. Remove these two screws and the two on the top of the dialer near
the speaker. There are four plastic clips that are now holding the two
halves of the dialer together. Push on the two bottom clips near th
ebattery compartment and pull up to seperate the bottom part. Now slide a
flat screwdriver into the seam on the left starting from the bottom and
moving towards the top. (You may have to do this on th eright side as
well.)
When the two halves separate, slide the speaker half underneath the
other half while being careful not to break th tewires connecting thte two.
Locate the cylindrical metallic can (it's about half an inch long and an
eighth of an inch in diameter) and pull it away from the circuit board to
break the glue that holds it in place. Unsolder this can, which is a
3.579545 MHz crystal, from the circuit board.
The hard part of this modification is getting the new crystal to fit
properly. Bend the three disk capacitors over,[And out of the way the best
you can, making room for the new crystal. You may need to remove the screw
in the way as well.] Since the 6.5536 MHz crystal is probably much bigger
than the crystal you are replacing, you will need to bend the leads on the
new crystal so that they will match up will the pads on the circuit board.
Place the new crystal on the circuit board by soldering it in place. As an
added touch you might peel he QC sticker off of the PC board and place it
on top of the crystal. Now carefully snap the two halves back together
while checking to make sure that none of the wires are getting pinched or
are in the way of the screw holes. Put the case screws back ion and insert
three AAA batteries into the battery compartment.
You dialer is now ready to test. Switch the unit on. The LED on th
edial pad side should be lit. Set the lower slide switch to STORE mode.
Press the MEMORY button on the dial pad. Press the * key five times.
Press the MEMORY key again and then press the P1 key. A beep tone when any
key is pressed and a long beep should sound after the P1 key has been
pressed to indicate that the programming sequence was performed correctly.
Switch th eunit into DIAL mode. press the P1 key, and five tone
pulses that sound remarkably like coin tones should come out of the
speaker. I usually program P1 to be four quarters (insert one or two
PAUSE's between each set of five tones), P2 to be two quarters, and P3 as
one quarter.
Of course, you can no longer use the unit to generate touch tones.....
REFERENCE
The crystal is available from Fry's Electronics in Freemont, CA for
$0.89 plus the charge for UPS Red or Blue. Their number is 415-770-3763.
I would suggest buying five, some for future use and some just in case you
cut the leads too short when trying this project.
[/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/]
[ ]
[ Scarlet box plans ]
[ ----------------- ]
[ A High Mtn Hackerz Presentation ]
[ ]
[ Written & Created by: THE PIMP ]
[ ]
[/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/]
The purpose of a Scarlet box is to create a very bad conection, it can be
used to crash a BBS or just make life miserable for those you seek to avenge.
Materials: 2 aligator clips, 3 inch wire, or a resister
(plain wire will create greatest amount of static)
(Resister will decrease the amount of static in porportion to the resister you
are useing)
Step (1): Find the phone box at your victims house, and pop the cover off.
Step (2): Find the two prongs that the phone line you wish to box are connected
too.
Step (3): Hook your aligator clips to your (wire/resister).
Step (4): Find the lower middle prong and take off all wires connected to it, i
think this disables the gound and call waiting and shit like that.
Step (5): Now take one of the aligator clips and attach it to the upper most
prong, and take the other and attach it to the lower middle prong.
Step (6): Now put the cover back on the box and take off!!
** ######## **
** # #### # **
######## /
# #### # /
######## /
/
/
/
/
/
/
/
**/
**
** **
** **
(**)= prongs
**
(/) = (wire/resister)
(##)= some phone bullshit
Created by (The Pimp)
S C R I B B L E V I S I O N
11-MAY-90
If you open the back of a TV, there's the neck of the picture tube sticking
out the back. It has a 'yoke' around it that is made of two large
saddle-shaped coils, usually of lacquered copper wire. Sometimes the coils are
wrapped in tape or plastic or an insulation of some kind, but they're usually
just copper.
_____
| \ Yoke (wraps around tube neck)
| \ =====
| \-----------\-|
| Picture Tube |-| (plug on END of tube neck remains connected)
| /-----------/-|
| / =====\
|_____/ Yoke \ Wires from YOKE to CHASSIS
\ (cut these and connect YOKE to STEREO)
\
\ (leave the CHASSIS end of the wires UNCONNECTED)
-------------------------
| TV Chassis |
-------------------------
OK. Sometimes there is a bundle of wires or a multi-wire cable that goes from
the yoke coil to the chassis. (the yoke coil defects the light spot back and
forth so that it scans out the TV picture. Check an encyclopedia or TV repair
book at a library for illustrations or block diagrams etc. if this isn't
clear) anyway, the yoke coil will be connected to the main chassis/circuitry
of the TV set by several wires, sometimes there's a cable connector or
multi-pin plug/socket arrangement on the end. What you have to do is
disconnect ALL wires that lead from the chassis to the yoke coils (do this
with the TV _OFF_ : HIGH VOLTAGE!!!). If the yoke wires have a connector,
just unplug it from the chassis. If the yoke wires are soldered on to the
chassis you will have to cut them. There will also be wires running from a
plug/socket on the very end of the neck of the picture tube. Leave these
connected - they are needed to warm up the picture tube so you get an image
on the screen.
Now, turn the tv on and carefully touch a pair of speaker wires connected to
a playing stereo, (or just run a 9 volt battery over to the yoke wires) try
out various pairs of wires until you see the spot of light that will be in
the center of the TV picture (you have disabled scanning and should only see
one dot on the face of the picture tube) uh, try connecting voltage or
speaker audio into pairs of yoke wires until you have determined which two
pair of wires move the dot vertically and which pair move it horizontally.
You can use a mirror to watch the TV while fiddling about in back with the
yoke wires. Once you have determined the vertical and horizontal pairs, just
run a set of speaker wires from your stereo over to the yoke pairs and turn
up the volume, and adjust the left-right balance until the music or radio you
are listening to makes the screen scribble around and pulsate to the music.
If you have an oscilloscope, it's even easier - just put the oscilloscope in
X/Y mode and feed one channel of a walkman into the horizontal probe and the
other channel (left/right channels here) into the vertical sweep probe. The
oscilloscope will display a scribble of the music coming from the walkman.
Old black and white TVs work better than color TVs for making scribble
visions. The only requirement is that light appears on the screen when you
turn on the TV set (that is, you can see the scanning pattern). You may have
to adjust contrast and brightness to get the best scribble trace on the
screen.
If you are using a 'good' TV you might want to install DPDT switches to switch
back and forth between scribble and normal TV modes. Make sure the DPDT
switches isolate the chassis scanning signals from your stereo completely or
you can blow things out.
This is a diagram of the contacts on the bottom of a DPDT switch.
Make two of these, one for the Left/Horizontal Yoke-to-Stereo
connections and one for the Right/Vertical Yoke-to-Stereo connections.
You only need to do this if you want to switch back and forth
between TV and Scribblevision modes. Make SURE the Chassis wires
will get connected to their original corresponding Yoke wires when
the switch is flipped.
|wire to Yoke Coil
|
------o o o-----
wires from chassis wires from stereo
------o o o-----
|
|wire to Yoke Coil
You can also reverse the leads from the chassis to the yoke to make the TV
display a mirror image or upside-down picture. Mirror reversal is convenient
if you don't want to be forced to read adversizement graphics when they
appear on the screen.
Oh, if you watch a mono audio source in scribble-vision mode, you will just
see a diagonal line instead of a full scribble pattern. You might have to
adjust the tone controls on the stereo in a wierd way because bass sounds
make larger patterns than treble sounds, but treble sounds produce more
complex textures. Experiment around.
Outlaw
Telecommandos
HOW TO BUILD A SILVER BOX
MATERIALS : Soldering iron and solder
22 ga. wire
SPDT switch
screwdriver
PROCEDURE
1) Unscrew your phone (must be a touch tone, desk type)
2) Remove the mounted pad and take the clear plastic cover from the bottom.
3) Hold the pad with the numbers 0, *, # facing you, and turn it upside down,
so you can see the yellow pc board.
4) You should see 2 black round doughnuts.
5) Position the board so the solder points for the left doughnut face you.
6) Count over four points from the left, and attach a (green) wire to that
point.
7) Between you and the doughnuts, there should be 2 long yellow capacitors.
To the right of these, and on the edge of the board there should be 3 gold
contacts. We will use the one on the left.
8) The contact originally is spot welded, so snip it open.
9) To the one nearest you, attach a (red) wire; to the other one, a (yellow)
wire.
10) Run the wires out of the phone, and solder the switch.
11) The orientation should be (red) to center. The switch will now alternate
between normal and 1633hz fourth column tones.
_____________________________________
| |
| : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
| : /\/ew \/\/ave /-/acking : |
| : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
| |
| by: Dispater |
_____________________________________
/\/\/\/-/ /\/\/\/-/
8/20/90 | | 8/20/90
| The Slush Box |
| |
|_____________________________________|
The slush box is currently under development by Master Zerez and
myself. When plans are complete, the Slush Box can be installed
at places of business that have the standard multi-line phones.
The box will be used on business phone systems like the "Com-Key"
or similar phones. Installation will be fairly simple, and take
just a couple of minutes to install. Here's how:
|
|
W |
a |
l | Big, fat 25-pair cable Connector from wall
l | \ ______________ /
|-------------------------/ \ /
|------------------------/ \
| |----------------|
| | Slush Box |
| |----------------| To any extension phone
| \ /-------------------------
| \______________/--------------------------
| /
| /
Connector on end of extension phone
These connectors are easy to find because nearly every desk in
the business has a phone, right? And behind every desk you'll
find one of these connectors. Just separate the connectors.
(You will need a small flat-blade screwdriver to loosen a screw on
each end) Then insert the Slush Box and make sure everything is
securely plugged in.
- THE SLUSH BOX IN THEORY -
It works basically like it was YOUR OWN extension of the business'
phone. The Box is powered from the phone's existing power. You
call the business' number (way after hours, of course!). After 25
rings, the Slush Box answers on Line 1. Nothing further happens
until you enter a password into the Box. (Something simple, like
"#" "5" ) The Slush Box then connects you to Line 2. Voila! You
have a nice dial tone. (On some systems you'll have to dial a "9"
to get the dial tone.) Well, after your first call from their
Line 2 you'll want to hang up Line 2 and make another call.
Simple. Just enter your password and you'll get dial tone again.
(Example: "#" "5" again) The Slush Box turns completely off if
you hang up from your end.
THIS FILE WILL BE UPDATED AS WE RECEIVE THE INFO WE NEED
So far, we know the electronics in the box will be kept to a
minimum. Circuits we need to work on:
1. A circuit that can count rings (or count "flashes"
from a pin on the connector) then seize the line.
2. A tone decoder circuit (preferably using Radio Shack's
Decoder Chip) that can hold a couple of password digits.
3. Input from other phreakers to help keep this project going.
ADVANTAGES OF THIS KIND OF CIRCUIT
1. It is easily installed in ANY multiline phone system.
2. It works for ONLY you because it has a password.
3. The more of these you install, the less you will use each
one, and the less chance of it being discovered.
4. The phone company considers their responsibilities for checking
out lines to end at the phone box outside. It is unlikely that
a phone company employee would enter the premises and check for
the existence of such a circuit.
5. The Slush Box is small and installed in an inconspicuous manner. 
6. If they even NOTICE the extra calls, they'll assume they're from:
(a) a billing error.
(b) a dishonest employee coming in after-hours to make calls.
(c) someone tapping into the phone line from OUTSIDE the
premises.
If you can help us get this finished contact Dispater. Thanks!
How to Build Your Own Underground
Television Transmitter
Using Commercially
Available
Parts
Yes, for some time now it has been possible to construct a clandestine
television station, which you can operate from your Telecommando Lair, or modify
for Mobile Media Guerrilla campaigns.
We have named this device the Snow Box, due to its cool nature, and the snow
seen on blank television channels waiting to be commandeered.
To put together a TV station you will need this stuff:
A VCR or Camcorder with video or RF outputs
A Ham Radio 6-meter Band Linear amplifier
(This boosts the RF signal from the VCR for broadcasting)
(The Linear Amp should have a bandwidth of 6 MHz for best results)
A cable television RF distribution amplifier may also be used.
Coaxial cable with UHF connectors
(Connects the Linear Amp to the Antenna)
A cable-TV patch cable with an F-connector and a UHF connector
(To connect the RF signal to the Linear Amp)
(F-connectors are the small ones used with cable TV)
(UHF connectors are the large ones used for Ham Radio)
If your VCR does not have RF outputs:
An external RF modulator (converts video to channel 3,6,12 etc.)
a cable with RCA connectors (a standard stereo cord is ok)
A 6-meter Ham radio antenna.
If you do not have a pre-made 6-meter antenna:
About 20 feet of strong wire
3 ceramic antenna insulators
another UHF connector
Likely places to get the linear amplifier, connectors and cables is a
Ham Radio swapmeet, a Ham club newsletter's classified ads, a Buy-Sell-Trade
paper like The Recycler, or at a store specializing in Ham gear.
RF modulators are available at specialty video stores, or major VCR dealers.
Setting Up the Transmitter:
Using a VCR with RF out:
[VCR/RF]F----------------------------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna]
weak RF Power RF
Using an External RF Modulator:
[VCR]R-------R[RF Modulator]---------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna]
video weak RF Power RF
Diagram Symbols:
U UHF-connectors (Ham radio)
F F-connectors (cable TV)
R RCA connectors (stereos)
--- coax, cables, wires
[] devices (name of device in brackets)
<I> ceramic insulator (the kind with a hole at each end)
Building The Dipole Antenna:
wire wire
<I>---------------------+<I>+----------------------<I>
| |
Short coax | |
[U] UHF connector
The antenna is set up much like a clothesline with the wires tethered
straight out horizontally. The outer insulators are used to isolate the
antenna from the tether lines, which should be rope or nylon cords
for good results. The inner insulator isolates a gap between the two
long wires of the antenna.
The length of the wires used for the antenna is critical.
Look up the length in feet for the channel you want to use in the
table below & make each of the two long wires that length.
As a rule of thumb, a wire half-wave antenna's length in feet is equal to
468 divided by the frequency in MHz.
****************************************
VHF Television Channel Data
----------------------------------------
TV MHz ---carrier--- antenna
channel range video sound lengths
------- ----- ----- ----- -------
2 54-60 55.25 59.75 8.47ft
3 60-66 61.25 65.75 7.64ft
4 66-72 67.25 71.75 6.95ft
5 76-82 77.25 81.75 6.05ft
6 82-88 83.25 87.75 5.62ft
7 174-180 175.25 179.75 2.67ft
8 180-186 181.25 185.75 2.58ft
9 186-192 187.25 191.75 2.49ft
10 192-198 193.25 197.75 2.42ft
11 198-204 199.25 193.75 2.34ft
12 204-210 205.25 209.75 2.28ft
13 210-216 211.25 215.75 2.21ft
(All frequencies in MHz)
(Lengths are for half-wave antennas)
****************************************
For Further information: Look in the ARRL Handbook published by the American
Radio Relay League for detailed plans & theory for antennas, transmitters &
linear amplifiers. The info in that book can be used for setting up an
underground AM or FM radio station.
Uses for a TV Clandestine Station:
Public Education: Make a videotape of each step in the process of constructing
your transmitter. Show this tape in your broadcasts, "For informational purposes
only", of course.
Short-burst zipping: From a fixed or mobile base of operation show short
snippets of graffiti-like computer graphics, quick subliminal messages,
images & suggestions, or brief phreaker manifestos. Commercials are an
opportune time to break into TV broadcasts.
Live call-in shows: Using a Cheese Box, or other device for receiving
untraceable phone calls and a video camera do a live call-in show. Encourage
people to call in using Red, Blue, and other phreaking boxes.
Cable TV Piracy: With modifications it may be possible to feed the power RF
signal directly into a cable TV system, overriding cablecasts or comandeering
unused channels.
Mobile Operation: Using storage batteries and a 110-volt inverter the
transmitter may be modified for mobile use to avoid detection by the FCC during
long broadcasts. Battery operated mobile linear amps and portable camcorders are
also available.
* Please add any anecdotes or new information you discover to this file *
*****************************************************************************
* The Tan Box *
* *
* *
* Written by: *
* *
* Samurai Cat and Tarkin Darklighter *
* *
* *
*****************************************************************************
Introduction
------------
The Tan box allows you to make recordings from a phone line, and it will
only record once the victim's phone is picked up.
Basically, this is a modified linesman's handset, or "Beige Box." For a
copy of the Beige Box file, ask your friendly local sysop. A Beige Box
consists of a speaker and two wires, a red (ring) and a green (tip). The Tan
Box also works on this principle.
Construction
------------
Parts:
A small cassette recorder, preferably a micro cassette recorder.
(It MUST have both a microphone jack and a remote jack)
A single line recording control. (Radio Shack part number 43-228)
2 alligator clips (Radio Shack number 270-374)
A plastic box to contain the above parts (also available at Radio Shack)
Tan or Black spray paint
7/16 inch hex driver
1. Take the recording control and cut the modular plug off. Make sure you
leave enough wire!
2. Strip the red and green wires. (The yellow and black wires are not
necessary, and can be removed.)
3. Drill a hole on the end of the plastic box (enough for two wires to go
through).
4. Put the recording control in the box and run the red and green wires
through the hole. Attach one alligator clip to each of the wires.
5. Put the micro cassette recorder in the box and plug the remote and
microphone wires from the recording control into it.
6. Close the box.
7. Spray paint the box and wires to make it look like it is supposed to be
where it is. (BE SURE YOU LABEL THE WIRES BEFORE YOU PAINT THEM!)
Installation
------------
You can either hook it up to the box on the side of their house or a
bridging head. Use the 7/16" hex driver to open either of these. (On older
houses, you may not have to use a hex driver.) Attach the red wire to the
right terminal and the green to the left. (Remember: Red-Ring-Right) If you
attached the box to a bridging head, there may be room to leave it inside.
If you attached it to the side of a house, run the wires out of their box and
close it. Attach the Tan Box to the side of their house.
Make sure you come back and get the box pretty soon, or you may find it
gone! Micro cassette recorders are not cheap!
Be careful, wiretapping is a felony (2-20 years, a $10,000 fine, or
both), and various other laws may be broken (i.e., recording without the
other party knowing it, etc.)
Ways to avoid being Beige/Tan Boxed
-----------------------------------
A tap detector may be purchased at Radio Shack (of course). If you do
detect a tap, find the box, and you will have just gotten a new tape
recorder!
Disclaimer
----------
This file was written for informational purposes only, so the authors
will not assume any responsiblity for either the use or construction of the
Tan Box.
THE TANGERINE BOX
By Happy Harley
First Off-This is fucking illegal so I would not try it at
all. But have fun if you do, and BTW I assume no
responsibilty for whatever the fuck you may do with this.
Intro-A tangerine box is a box that inables you to plug it
in, then listen to the conversation, without them hearing a
click or anything...plus a jack for headphone, or tape.
Parts:Modular Phone Conector
Speaker
Headphone Jack
You can get these at your local Radio Shit, er Shack store...
Here the plans, schamateic or whatever
Key To symbols:
* *
=Modular Phone Jack, so does *.
* *
<==>=Speaker
V
/Ý\=Head phone jack
R=Red
G=Green
B=Black
Y=Yellow, or sometimes white
YYYYYYYYYYYY
Y Y
YYYYYYYYYYYYYYY <==> Y
Y YY/ / YY
Y G Y
/ /GGGGGGG GG Y
*Y *G G G Y
G G Y
*R *B G\ Ý /
V
Note=Just leave the Red&Black alone..
Now, the speaker will be listening when ever the phone is
plugged in, and when you plug a pair of headphone or a tape
recorder into the Headphone jack, the speaker will
automatically disable. Now have fun, and most
importantly...DON'T GET CAUGHT
Creating Portable Touchtone Keypads
(White Boxes)
{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{|}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}
This bulletin describes how to take a s tandard touch tone
keypad and convert it to a portable unit. In a ddition, I give
the touch tone frequencies.
First of all, the tones generated by a standard touch tone
keypad (like one on a standard telephone) are not single tones,
but a combination of two tones for each key pressed. Standard
keypads normally generate 12 tone combinations, but are capable of
generating 16 with a silver box mod.
The power required by a keypad is about 25 volts, but they will
work with as little as 15, thereby allowing the use of two 9-
volt radio batteries. As you may have guessed, they are also
designed to operate with a telephone type speaker (and phone
line), and not the standard 8-ohm speaker which needs to be
used for adequate volume. To accompolish this, we use a
matching transformer, this is one of those miniature ones
available at Radio Shack. Enough of the theory, now for the
circuit.
You will need:
A touch tone keypad
A miniature 1000 to 8 ohm transformer (Radio Shack # 273-1380)
A standard 8-ohm speaker
Two 9-volt radio batteries
Two 9-volt battery clips
A case to put it all in (optional)
A few construction notes, I suggest that you solder and tape
all connections. It is also important to read this entire
bulletin before attempting to construct this.
First, connect the RED wire of the transformer to either
terminal on the speaker. Now connect the WHITE wire from the
transformer to the other terminal on th e speaker. Next,
connect the RED (positive) wire of one battery clip to the black
wire of the other battery clip. Now connect the the remaining
RED wire on the second battery clip to the GREEN wire from the
touch tone pad. Connect the BLUE wire from the touch tone pad
to the ORANGE-and-BLACK striped wire from the touch tone pad.
To these two wires, now connect the remaining black lead from
first battery clip. You have now finished the power connection
to the keypad. Connect the BLACK wire from the keypad to the
BLUE wire on the transformer. Next connect the RED-and-GREEN
striped wire from the keypad to the GREEN wire on the
transformer. The BLACK wire on the transformer should not be
connected to anything, along with quite a few wires from the
keypad. The connection of the keypad is now complete. All you
ha ve to do is connect two nine volt batteries to the battery
clips, and you'll be ready to go. You may want to mount it in a
case for easy portability. Note that the silver box modification
CAN be made to this unit, allowing complete remote phreaking.
Wh en none of the buttons are pressed, this unit uses NO power,
thereby eliminating the need for a power switch, and extending
the life of the batteries.
The following are the frequency combinations generated by each
button on the keypad.
KEY FREQ. #1 FREQ. #2
--- -------- --------
1 697 1209
2 697 1336
3 697 1477
A 697 1633
4 770 1209
5 770 1336
6 770 1477
B 770 1633
7 852 1209
8 852 1336
9 852 1477
C 852 1633
* 941 1209
0 941 1336
# 941 1477
D 941 1633
All frequencies are measured in Hertz Note that A,B,C and D are
not normally present (except for silver boxes)
(c) U.L.T.R.A. 1993
U.L.T.R.A. #21 by Sinister X
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