3980 lines
169 KiB
Plaintext
3980 lines
169 KiB
Plaintext
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<20> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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<20> <20> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><> <20> <20>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD>
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<20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20><> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20><> <20> <20>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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<20> <20><> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20><> <20> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20><>
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<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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Acrylic Box - The Pimp
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Advanced Pearl Box - Dispater
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Beige Box 1 - Dr. Ditto
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Beige Box 2 - >Unknown<
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Black Box - >Unknown<
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Blast Box - Shadow Hawk
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Brown Box - >Unknown<
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Bud Box - Dr. D-Code & The Pimp
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Charge Box - Piggy The Pig
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Cheese Box - >Unknown<
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Chrome Box - Outlaw Telecommandos
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Clear Box - >Unknown<
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Copper Box - The Cypher
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Crimson Box - Dr. D-Code
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Dayglo Box - John F. Kennedy
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Ditto Box - Dr. Ditto
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Diverter Info - >Unknown<
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Grab Box - Shadowspawn
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Green Box - Bioc Agent 003
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HBO Box - >Unknown<
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Infinity Box - Ironman
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JRD Red Box - J.R. Dobbs Red Box
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Light Box - >Unknown<
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Lunch Box - Dr. D-Code
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Magenta Box - Street Fighter
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Mauve Box - Captain Generic
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Neon Box - >Unknown<
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Olive Box ->Unknown<
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Pearl Box - Dr. D-Code
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Pin Box - Fugazi
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Pink Box - Baba O'Riley
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Purple Box - The Flash
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Razz Box - The Magnet
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Red Box - >Unknown<
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Rock Box - Video Vindicator
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Red Box from 2600 - 2600
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Scarlet Box - The Pimp
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Scribble Box - Outlaw Telecommandos
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Silver Box - >Unknown<
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Slush Box - Dispater
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Snow Box - >Unknown<
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Tan Box - Samurai Cat
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Tanger Box - Happy Harley
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White Box - >Unknown<
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I have collected as many of the box files as i could find and placed them into
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one easy to read text file. I have left out any blue box information since it
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is outdated (Mostly) in the United States. I have collected enough info on
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Blue Boxes to release as a future file anyways. I tried to give credit to any
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person or group who originally released the text file. I removed many of the
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board names and numbers since they are no longer active. I always wondered
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why no one else has compiled all the information avaliable on boxes into an
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easy to read single file. So i went ahead and did it. Everything is mostly
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in alphabetical order.
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As many of you know Blitzkrieg Bbs has gone down. That was our main release
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point for ULTRA files. We will search for a new system to distribute from
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until Predat0r puts another system back up. I encourage all who enjoyed the
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system to drop a note to the post office box. I'm sure we can expect to see
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a better system when it goes back up. I also think we will have exclusive
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first hand knowledge of when that will be since we are in contact. I am
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going to try to do an interview with Predat0r for a future release.
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If you like this file be sure to get all the other ULTRA releases.
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`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`/`\`
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|-------Acrylic Box Plans-------|
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| \----------------/ |
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| \______By______/ |
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| [ The Pimp ] |
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\_______________________________/
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Ok the purpose of this box is to get Three-Way-Calling, Call Waiting,
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programmable Call Forwarding, and an easier way of extended Bud Boxing ALL for
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FREE.
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Materials:
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1) Wire stripers
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2) Couple Feet Wire
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3) AT&T/BELL Can
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4) Hex Wrench
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Idea: Ok the idea of this box is to get all of the above features by stealing
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them from the fortunate ones on your block.
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Procedure:
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Step 1) Find AT&T/BELL Can that is being used to service you surrounding area.
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Step 2) Open can with Hex wrench.
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Step 3) Find your line and another persons line who has 3-way, Call
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(waiting/forwarding), if the # of all the lines are not listed in the box you
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will have to use your local ANI to find them.
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Step 4) Once you have found the lines then wire the (Black & Yellow) wires on
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the victims line to the (Black & Yellow) wires on you line (Be sure your phone
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at home uses all 4 wire as some of the cheap phones don't).
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Step 5) Then disconnect the victims (Black & Yellow) Wires, resulting the the
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loss of these features to their line ( you mat want to leave these wires
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connected, this may or may not cause problems I haven't tried it that may yet).
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Well That Sums It Up!
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Procedure for easier extended Bud Box.
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If if for some reason your line is disconnected, or you just want to use hook
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someone's line to your line for fearless phreaking follow the procedure below.
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Ok Go to the local can and find a line that is used by weekend visitors or a
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summer/winter home, and hook their (Red & Green) Wires to your (Red & Green)
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Wires, and your off into the fearless world of phreaking ( i recommend you
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phreak from these line, so that the owners don't get uptight and look into the
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matter), unless of course you are doing it for revenge!
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Some Suggestions:
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Take a Bud box Along to do a ANI just to make sure you have the right line,
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also in some cases you will have to switch between the (Red/Green)
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(Black/Yellow) or any other combination if your area has changed the standard
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format which id very unlikely.
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Have Fun
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And I'm not responsible for your actions.
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Acrylic Box: Written & Created
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By
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[ The Pimp ]
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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////////////////////////////////////////\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
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|= =|
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|= Advanced Pearl Box =|
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|= 07/01/89 (APB) 07/01/89 =|
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|= Tested and Created by: Dispater =|
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|= =| \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\/////////////////////////////////////
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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INTRO: After reading the fucked up shit on the original pearl box, I decided
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that there was an easier and cheaper way of doing the same thing with
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an IC and parts you probably have just laying around the house.
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PARTS: CD4049 RCA intigrated circuit
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.1 uF disk capacitor
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1 uF 16V electrolitic capacitor
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1K resistor
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10K resistor
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1meg pot
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1N914 diode
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some SPST momentary pushbutton switches
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9 Volt battery & clip
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and miscalanious shit you should have laying around the house.
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STATE-OF-THE-ART-NEATO TEXT SCHEMATIC:
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+ 16V 1uF -
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_______________________________||_____
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| ! ! || | _
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| _______________________ |__________| |/| 8ohms
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____|__|_____:__|__:__|_ | __________| | |
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| 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 | | | |_|\|
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| CD4049UBE | | |
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|_1__2__3__4__5__6__7__8_| : | _
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| | |__| |__| | |____________________|_________[-]
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| | ! ! : [b]
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| |__________________________| [a]
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| : : | [t]
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| ! 1N914 ! ! [t]
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|___________|/|_____________________________________[+]
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: |\| : :
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| 10K | |
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|___/\/\/\__| |
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|_____||____| |
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.1uF 50V | |
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___| |___
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|_/\/\/\_____/\/\/\ | 1Meg
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1K ^ |
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|____|
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EXTRAS:
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To keep tones that you wanna use frequently like 1850 Hz then all you
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have to do is put in a variable resistor and adjust it to where you
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have the correct tone, then just put a push-putton switch on the line.
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You can link them together in a chain, etc.
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| ___ |
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| o o |
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| /\/\/\___| |__|
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| ^ |
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|____| ___ |
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| o o |
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| /\/\/\___| |__|
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| ^ |
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|__| |
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! !
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: (etc) :
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There are many other good mods to make to the box so have phun and be smart.
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Topic for today: Beige Boxing
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Written by : Dr. Ditto of SOF
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F.R.O.G. - Foneline: Recieving/Outgoing, Guarded phreaking.
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The reason I call this FROG phreaking is simple - you use the
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Foneline, can Recieve calls and make Outgoing calls, and you are
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basically Guarded when you do it. (Actually, I have this fone that
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looks like a frog, which I "modified" to use for phreaking, so I
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decided to use those letters as an acronym. Pretty neat, huh?)
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In reality, this idea is known as "Beige Boxing". But, since I
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didn't know that at the time I wrote this phile, and since I
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despise the color beige, *I'M* gonna call it frogging. You call it
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whatever you want.
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FROG phreaking is a bit different from other phreaking, which you
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do in the privacy of your own home. There are a few downfalls to
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using codes, and phreaking from your home, such as 1) The call can
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be traced 2) The Phone Company keeps a log of ALL your outgoing
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calls, incoming calls, and the time you spent talking. They know
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which number you call, and when, and which number called you, etc.
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3) Sometimes codes can bill, and if you use them from your own
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line, you can be billed 4) The phone co takes interest in your use
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of codes - if they see you ripping them off too much, they squash
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you.
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As you can see, it's VERY easy to get busted, if you aren't
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careful. FROG phreaking (Frogging, from now on) is a bit safer, in
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some respects. And then again, maybe not. It's not for everyone,
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but you can decide that for yourself.
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With Frogging, you don't use your own fone line. You use your
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neighbors. Or your bosses. Or the one for the old warehouse down
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the street. Simply put, Frogging involves tapping into another
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person's phone line, which is HIGHLY ILLEGAL. Frogging involves
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trespassing, and possibly being seen,, depending on how secretive
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you are. Frogging is, to say the least, something you DON'T want
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to get caught doing. Consider yourself warned.
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FROGGING Basics
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Like most kinds of phreaking, you will need some special
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equipment. Here is a list of things you WILL need:
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1) Lineman's Handset (or a working, MODIFIABLE phone)
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2) Screwdriver (flathead, in most cases)
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3) Two alligator clips (preferably insulated)
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4) Solder and Soldering Iron
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5) Electricians Tape
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6) * 20' of phone wire & phone jack (female)
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7) * Flashlight (test it!)
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8) * SPST switch
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The items with asterisks (*) are OPTIONAL, but helpful. The rest
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is definitely needed. Now, it's really nice if you have a
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lineman's handset, but since 99.9% of the people don't, I'll tell
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ya how to make one, from your MODIFIABLE phone (not the one in your
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kitchen that mommy uses to call for pizza, ok?!?!) You should use
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a small ONE PIECE phone (with the dial and hangup buttons on the
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handset), preferably TOUCH TONE, but not necessary, and it would be
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nice if it had a lighted dial, so you can see to dial at night.
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Here's how to fix the phone, to allow it to be used on ANY phone
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line:
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1) Cut the plug off the end of the phone cord, but leave about 2
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inches of wire connected to the plug. You may be glad later that
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you did. NOTE: If you have the 20' of wire and female phone jack,
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don't bother cutting up the phone cord. You can, but it's probably
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a waste of time.
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2) Back to the phone cord - you will see 4 wires: red, green,
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black, and yellow. Ignore the black and yellow, cause they aren't
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used at all for our purpose. Strip the red and green wires about
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1/2 an inch, and solder one alligator clip to the red wire, and one
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to the green wire. Allow the solder to cool (about 30 seconds) and
|
|||
|
|
wrap the soldered joints with electrical tape. If you are using
|
|||
|
|
the 20' of wire, solder an alligator clip to the red and green
|
|||
|
|
wires, as told above. Then, attatch the female phone plug to the
|
|||
|
|
other end of the wire, making a kind of Phreakers extension cord.
|
|||
|
|
(Be sure to hook the red and green wires up to the right place!)
|
|||
|
|
Your phone can then be plugged into the phone jack, which in turn
|
|||
|
|
runs into the alligator clips. This way, the phone will need no
|
|||
|
|
modification.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3) Well, the easy stuff (?) is done; now for the PHUN part! Go
|
|||
|
|
outside to the phone box on your house, and (using that
|
|||
|
|
screwdriver) open it. There are more types of phone boxes than
|
|||
|
|
there are IBM compatibles, so it's tough to describe what you will
|
|||
|
|
see, in detail. All boxes are the same, for the most part, though.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You will probably see a phone cord plugged into a test jack. This
|
|||
|
|
is the line that connects your house to the outside phone lines.
|
|||
|
|
Pull out the plug, and your house fones go dead. Put it back in,
|
|||
|
|
and they reconnect (how brilliant we are today!) ANYWAY - hook
|
|||
|
|
your modified telephone (HANDSET from now on) onto the screws in
|
|||
|
|
your phone box. Be sure to hook the red clip to the red wire, and
|
|||
|
|
the green clip to the green wire. (Tough, I know...) When you
|
|||
|
|
listen to your handset, you should hear a dial tone. You can now
|
|||
|
|
place or recieve calls. If you don't hear a dialtone, try
|
|||
|
|
reversing the alligator clips, or try other screws, until you find
|
|||
|
|
a combination that produces a dialtone. There WILL be one. Now,
|
|||
|
|
an interesting fact that you SHOULD know already. Almost every
|
|||
|
|
house or building that has a phone has one of those boxes outside.
|
|||
|
|
Get the picture? You can open up anyone's box, and use their phone
|
|||
|
|
line. Some older houses are "hardwired" to the phone line, and
|
|||
|
|
there is no box. The wires usually connect near the roof of the
|
|||
|
|
house, and they're just a bit out of our reach. So, you'll have to
|
|||
|
|
find a house with a box if yours doesn't have one.
|
|||
|
|
If you know the number for ANI (Automatic Number
|
|||
|
|
Identification) you can dial it, and see which number you're
|
|||
|
|
calling from. This is VERY important if you wish to recieve calls
|
|||
|
|
while you're phreaking (keep the ringer volume down!)
|
|||
|
|
On some telephone poles, you can find boxes just like those on
|
|||
|
|
the side of a house. Simply connect your handset, and call away.
|
|||
|
|
If there are multiple lines in the box, dial ANI to find out the
|
|||
|
|
numbers, then call them, to see who lives there. In Lancaster Co,
|
|||
|
|
and surrounding areas, ANI is 311. Just dial that, and a machine
|
|||
|
|
will tell you the number you're calling from. That number probably
|
|||
|
|
changes from area to area, so ask a few local hackers what the ANI
|
|||
|
|
number is, and you should be able to find out. If not, try calling
|
|||
|
|
the phone company, and worm the info out of them. If they say they
|
|||
|
|
can't tell ya, call a friend who works for Ma Bell, and check it
|
|||
|
|
out. Either way, ANI is a VERY handy number to have.
|
|||
|
|
Now, back to the poles... I mentioned before that there are
|
|||
|
|
boxes on telephone poles which hold connections. Mess with 'em if
|
|||
|
|
you want, but be careful - remember - if the person who owns the
|
|||
|
|
line picks up the phone, he's able to listen to any conversation
|
|||
|
|
you have going on, and you CANNOT hang him up! So, if you call
|
|||
|
|
your girlfriend who lives 3 counties away, while Frogging, and the
|
|||
|
|
owner of the line you're using picks up his phone, he is now
|
|||
|
|
listening to ya, and even if you hang up, he is still connected
|
|||
|
|
with your girlfriend! NOT GOOD! It's a good way to get busted,
|
|||
|
|
really! That's where the optional SPST (single pole single throw)
|
|||
|
|
switch comes in. If you connect it between the box screw and the
|
|||
|
|
wire going to his house, you can flip it and hang him up. His
|
|||
|
|
phones will go dead, and it will give you a chance to disconnect
|
|||
|
|
and get out of there! If you intend to use one particular line a
|
|||
|
|
lot, I recommend hooking up a safety switch, as a precaution. (Be
|
|||
|
|
sure to turn his line on again, though, before you take off, or
|
|||
|
|
he'll get the phone company out there, and they will see your
|
|||
|
|
little rig) It's best to do your frogging when the people are away
|
|||
|
|
on vacation, or late at night, after they go to bed. (It's kinda
|
|||
|
|
nice to be under the cover of darkness, too, as some kid standing
|
|||
|
|
beside a phone pole in front of a house and talking on a phone is
|
|||
|
|
probably going to draw attention from the neighbors).
|
|||
|
|
Now, if you plan on calling a BBS, it's kinda tough to use the
|
|||
|
|
Frogging technique, unless you have a laptop. You can use your
|
|||
|
|
imagination, though, to figure out a way to get a full blown 386
|
|||
|
|
and VGA monitor plugged in beside the road, so as to use the
|
|||
|
|
frogging technique. Good luck, bud.
|
|||
|
|
Frogging is basically for voice phone calls, which are to be
|
|||
|
|
made long distance. Please remember, though, that the person who
|
|||
|
|
owns the line you are using will get billed, and after a while
|
|||
|
|
he'll start to get suspicious. Of course, if you hate the person,
|
|||
|
|
find one of those 900 numbers that charges $30 the first minute,
|
|||
|
|
and call it 5 or 6 times from his phoneline. NASTY!!
|
|||
|
|
I have found that the best place to go beige boxing is
|
|||
|
|
somewhere like an industrial park. They are usually deserted after
|
|||
|
|
dark, and those big companies probably don't scrutinize the phone
|
|||
|
|
bill very carefully, so they probably won't get suspicious too
|
|||
|
|
fast.
|
|||
|
|
Another thing to keep a lookout for are those 2 foot high
|
|||
|
|
rectangular phone company boxes that you'll often find in a new
|
|||
|
|
developement when there are underground phone lines. Those boxes
|
|||
|
|
can hold from one up to about 20 different lines, and they are
|
|||
|
|
really easy to get into. There is a bolt holding them closed, and
|
|||
|
|
it's protected by a round disk, so you can't use a normal wrench to
|
|||
|
|
loosen it. Well, use a pliers. Loosen the bolt, but don't take it
|
|||
|
|
out. If it's loose enough to turn easily, you can open the box.
|
|||
|
|
Simply pull up on the front panel, and walla, hacker heaven. If
|
|||
|
|
you have trouble getting the thing open, get a bolt cutters, cut
|
|||
|
|
the bolt, and use a screwdriver to open the thing up. I have yet
|
|||
|
|
to find one that takes more than a minute to open... but the
|
|||
|
|
first one took a while, until I figured out how to do it. Anyway,
|
|||
|
|
once it's open, you'll see rows of connections, that are in this
|
|||
|
|
setup:
|
|||
|
|
O <-\
|
|||
|
|
O <------\_____ One Line pair
|
|||
|
|
O=bolt O <-\
|
|||
|
|
O <------\______ Another line pair
|
|||
|
|
O <-\
|
|||
|
|
O <------\______ Third line pair
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The lines are paired as shown. Try all possible line pairs,
|
|||
|
|
because each pair of bolts could be hooked up. Also, try reversing
|
|||
|
|
red and green wires for each pair, too, since there doesn't appear
|
|||
|
|
to be any standard setup in these boxes. The nice thing about
|
|||
|
|
these boxes is that they open up so many numbers, so you can use
|
|||
|
|
the same box over and over, on different lines, and people won't
|
|||
|
|
get suspicious as fast. Most of these boxes are REALLY close to
|
|||
|
|
the road, too, and it's quite simple to park near one, hook up, and
|
|||
|
|
sit in your car and talk on the phone! Keeps things more private.
|
|||
|
|
Of course, if someone gets your license number, you're screwed.
|
|||
|
|
There are literally MILLIONS of phone boxes out there, just
|
|||
|
|
begging to be tapped into. Always be sure to choose one in a
|
|||
|
|
secluded spot, and try not to be too obvious. Blend in... while
|
|||
|
|
you're hooking up, keep an eye out for cars coming, and, worse yet,
|
|||
|
|
people walking! If a car comes you can walk away, till it's out of
|
|||
|
|
sight. Or, if you are in a car, pop off the right rear hubcap, and
|
|||
|
|
throw it in your trunk, before trying to hook up. Then, if anyone
|
|||
|
|
asks why you're parked there, say you lost the hubcap and are
|
|||
|
|
looking for it along the edge of the road. it might seem like a
|
|||
|
|
lot of trouble, but hey, it's a sure way to cover your butt! And
|
|||
|
|
I'd rather pop off a hubcap than get fined a few thousand bucks for
|
|||
|
|
violating federal wiretap laws, trespassing laws, and whetever else
|
|||
|
|
they'd nail you for!!!
|
|||
|
|
In summary: You now know how to beige box correctly. Don't be
|
|||
|
|
afraid to experiment - phone lines don't contain enough voltage to
|
|||
|
|
shock you, or blow up your phone. Play a bit, and learn. Above
|
|||
|
|
all, don't get caught!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
>><*><< DoctoR DiTTo >><*><<
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox]
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
|
|||
|
|
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
|
|||
|
|
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Making a beigebox:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an
|
|||
|
|
alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
|
|||
|
|
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
|
|||
|
|
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
|
|||
|
|
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Connecting the beigebox:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any
|
|||
|
|
wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
|
|||
|
|
house. Follow the wires, and find where they connect. The
|
|||
|
|
telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small
|
|||
|
|
finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you
|
|||
|
|
like having a permanent orange afro.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should
|
|||
|
|
run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box. Some
|
|||
|
|
boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as
|
|||
|
|
far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now,
|
|||
|
|
you must open the box, and observe: you should see three bolts,
|
|||
|
|
each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the
|
|||
|
|
two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone. If you
|
|||
|
|
do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections. By the
|
|||
|
|
way, don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough
|
|||
|
|
power in the phone lines to harm you.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even,
|
|||
|
|
pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a
|
|||
|
|
$100 dollar service charge for your enemy.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Use your imagination!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
|
|||
|
|
Black Box Plans
|
|||
|
|
</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>-</>-<\>
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To all who dare --
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
What is a BLACK BOX? A BLACK BOX is a device that is hooked up to
|
|||
|
|
your fone that fixes your fone so that when you get a call, the caller
|
|||
|
|
doesn't get charged for the call. This is good for calls up to 1/2
|
|||
|
|
hour, after 1/2 hour the Fone Co. gets suspicious, and then you can
|
|||
|
|
guess what happens.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The way it works:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
What this little beauty does is keep the line voltage from
|
|||
|
|
dropping to 10v when you answer your fone. The line is insted kept at
|
|||
|
|
36v and it will make the fone think that it is still ringing while
|
|||
|
|
your talking. The reason for the 1/2 hour time limit is that the Fone
|
|||
|
|
CO. thinks that something is wrong after 1/2 an hour of ringing.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
All parts are available at Radio Shack. Using the least possible
|
|||
|
|
parts and arangement, the cost is $0.98 !!!! And that is parts for two
|
|||
|
|
of them! Talk about a deal! If you want to splurge then you can get a
|
|||
|
|
small PC board, and a switch. There are two schematics for this box,
|
|||
|
|
one is for most normal fones. The second one is for fones that don't
|
|||
|
|
work with the first. It was made for use with a Bell Trimline touch
|
|||
|
|
tone fone.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
</> Schematic 1 for most fones <\>
|
|||
|
|
</> LED ON: BOX ON <\>
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
FROM >--------------------GREEN-> TO
|
|||
|
|
LINE >--! 1.8k LED !---RED--> FONE
|
|||
|
|
!--/\/\/\--!>--!
|
|||
|
|
! !
|
|||
|
|
------>/<-------
|
|||
|
|
SPST
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
|
|||
|
|
1 1.5v LED
|
|||
|
|
1 SPST switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You may just have two wires which you connect together for the switch.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
</> Schematic 2 for all fones <\>
|
|||
|
|
</> LED ON: BOX OFF <\>
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
FROM >---------------GREEN-> TO
|
|||
|
|
LINE >------- ---RED--> FONE
|
|||
|
|
! LED !
|
|||
|
|
-->/<--!>--
|
|||
|
|
! !
|
|||
|
|
---/\/\/---
|
|||
|
|
1.8k
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts: 1 1.8k 1/2 watt resistor
|
|||
|
|
1 1.5v LED
|
|||
|
|
1 DPST switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Here is the PC board layout that I
|
|||
|
|
recommend using. It is neat and is
|
|||
|
|
very easy to hook up.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Schematic #1 Schematic #2
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
************** ****************
|
|||
|
|
* * * ------- *
|
|||
|
|
* --<LED>--- * * ! ! *
|
|||
|
|
* ! ! * * ! <SWITCH> *
|
|||
|
|
* RESISTOR ! * * ! ! ! *
|
|||
|
|
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
|
|||
|
|
* -------- ! * * ! ! \ *
|
|||
|
|
* ! ! * * ! <LED>! / *
|
|||
|
|
* --SWITCH-- * * ! ! \ *
|
|||
|
|
* ! ! * * ! ! / *
|
|||
|
|
L * ! ! * F L * ! ! ! * F
|
|||
|
|
I>RED- -RED>O I>RED- ---RED>O
|
|||
|
|
N>-----GREEN---->N N>-----GREEN------>N
|
|||
|
|
E * h * E E * * E
|
|||
|
|
************** ****************
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Once you have hooked up all the parts, you must figure out what
|
|||
|
|
set of wires go to the line and which go to the fone. This is because
|
|||
|
|
of the fact that LED's must be put in, in a certain direction.
|
|||
|
|
Depending on which way you put the LED is what controls what wires are
|
|||
|
|
for the line & fone.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How to find out:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Hook up the box in one direction using one set of wires for line
|
|||
|
|
and the other for fone. *NOTE* For Model I switch should be OFF.
|
|||
|
|
*NOTE* For Model ][ switch should be set to side connecting the LED.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Once you have hooked it up, then pick up the fone and see if the
|
|||
|
|
LED is on. If it is, the LED will be lit. If is doesn't light then
|
|||
|
|
switch the wires and try again. Once you know which are which then
|
|||
|
|
label them. *NOTE* - If neither directions worked then your switch was
|
|||
|
|
in the wrong position. Now label the switch in its current position as
|
|||
|
|
BOX ON.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How to use it:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The purpose of this box is not to people who call you so it would
|
|||
|
|
make sense that it can only be used to receive! calls. When the box is
|
|||
|
|
*ON* then you may only recieve calls. Your fone will ring like normal
|
|||
|
|
and the LED on the box will flash. If you answer the fone now, then
|
|||
|
|
the LED will light and the caller will not be charged. Hang up the
|
|||
|
|
fone after you are done talking like normal. You will not be able to
|
|||
|
|
get a dial-tone or call when the box is on, so turn the box *OFF* for
|
|||
|
|
normal calls. I don't recommend that you leave it on all the time, as
|
|||
|
|
you don't want it to answer when Ma Bell calls!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[=-=================================-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=] Presenting: [=-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=] The !BLAST! Box [=-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=] An *ORIGINAL* Box, [=-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=] Designed And Invented By [=-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=] (_> Shadow Hawk 1<_) [=-=]
|
|||
|
|
[=-=================================-=]
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Ever want to really make yourself be heard? Ever talk to someone on the phone
|
|||
|
|
who just doesn't shut up? Or just call the operator and pop her eardrum? Well,
|
|||
|
|
up until recently it has been impossible for you to do these things. That is,
|
|||
|
|
unless of course you've got a blast box. All a blast box is, is a really cheap
|
|||
|
|
amplifier, (around 5 watts or so) connected in place of the microphone on your
|
|||
|
|
telephone. It works best on model 500 AT&T Phones, and if constructed small
|
|||
|
|
enough, can be placed inside the phone.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Construction:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Construction is not really important. Well it is, but since I'm letting you make
|
|||
|
|
your own amp, I really don't have to include this.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Usage:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Once you've built your blast box, simply connect a microphone (or use the
|
|||
|
|
microphone from the phone) to the input of the amplifier, and presto. There it
|
|||
|
|
is. Now, believe it or not, this device actually works. (At least on crossbar.)
|
|||
|
|
It seems that Illinois bell switching systems allow quite alot of current to
|
|||
|
|
pass right through the switching office, and out to whoever you're calling. When
|
|||
|
|
you talk in the phone, it comes out of the other phone (again it works best if
|
|||
|
|
the phone that you're calling has the standard western electric earpiece)
|
|||
|
|
incredibly loud. This device is especially good for PBS Subscription drives.
|
|||
|
|
Have Phun, and don't get caught!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/-/-/-/-/-/-\-\-\-\-\-\
|
|||
|
|
<:-\-Brown Box Plans-/-:>
|
|||
|
|
\-\-\-\-\-\-/-/-/-/-/-/
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(>Introduction<)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is a fairly simple modification that can be made to any phone.
|
|||
|
|
All it does is allow you to take any 2 lines in your house and create a party
|
|||
|
|
line. So far I have not heard of Any problems with it from my friends that
|
|||
|
|
have
|
|||
|
|
set one up and I have not had any either. There is one thing that you will
|
|||
|
|
notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with this
|
|||
|
|
box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this
|
|||
|
|
with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these boxes made.
|
|||
|
|
I think that the convenience of having two people on line at any one time will
|
|||
|
|
make up for the minor volume loss.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(>Phone Modification Instructions<)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Here is the diagram:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
KEY:___________________________________
|
|||
|
|
! PART ! SYMBOL !
|
|||
|
|
-----------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
!BLACK WIRE ! * !
|
|||
|
|
!YELLOW WIRE ! = !
|
|||
|
|
!RED WIRE ! + !
|
|||
|
|
!GREEN WIRE ! - !
|
|||
|
|
!SPDT SWITCH ! _/_ !
|
|||
|
|
! _/_ !
|
|||
|
|
!VERTICAL WIRE ! | !
|
|||
|
|
!HORIZONTAL WIRE ! _ !
|
|||
|
|
-----------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* = - +
|
|||
|
|
* = - +
|
|||
|
|
* = - +
|
|||
|
|
* = - +
|
|||
|
|
* = - +
|
|||
|
|
* ==_/_- +
|
|||
|
|
*******_/_++++++
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
|_____PHONE____|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
---------------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
In some houses the black and yellow are already wired in others you
|
|||
|
|
will have to go out to your box and rewire it. A good way to figure out which
|
|||
|
|
line is which is to take the phone you are looking for off the hook. Then you
|
|||
|
|
only need to take the red and green wires entering your phone and hook them
|
|||
|
|
to the different pairs of red and green going into the house. You can't hurt
|
|||
|
|
anything in the phone or telephone by probeing. When you find the pair that
|
|||
|
|
you want take the black from your line and attach it to the red of the other
|
|||
|
|
line then take the yellow and attach it to the green line. Now you are all
|
|||
|
|
set
|
|||
|
|
to go. For people with rotary phones you can have one person call you then
|
|||
|
|
place the second call out to the other person. Though not phreakers tool, the
|
|||
|
|
brown box can be phun.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ HOW TO MAKE YOUR FONE INTO A /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ BUD BOX /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ INVENTED BY /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ DR. D-CODE & THE PIMP /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\ /=\
|
|||
|
|
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This box is quite similar to a beige box, except this is a portable unit.
|
|||
|
|
It is extremely handy for free voice calls and tapping a near by house's line.
|
|||
|
|
It's really easy to make so don't worry about it (unlike a blue box!).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
MATERIALS: 2 Alligator clips
|
|||
|
|
One piece fone or normal fone (one piece is easier!)
|
|||
|
|
Soldering iron and some solder
|
|||
|
|
Some good wire
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
PROCEDURE
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1) Cut the wire that connects the fone to the wall. Inside there should be 4
|
|||
|
|
colored wires. Yellow, red, green, and black. If the wires are not
|
|||
|
|
colored, no need to get worried. The two in the middle are red & green.
|
|||
|
|
Those are the two you need.
|
|||
|
|
2) Make sure to keep about 1-2 feet of this wire connected to the fone unless
|
|||
|
|
you want to use the other wire listed above. Now solder one alligator
|
|||
|
|
clip to the green wire, and one the red.
|
|||
|
|
3) If you're using the other wire, strip the ends and solder one end to of
|
|||
|
|
each to the red and green on the fone, and one end to an alligator clip.
|
|||
|
|
4) Go to a near by house and locate the little gray box. It's simple to
|
|||
|
|
find, look by the gas meter. It should have the BELL logo on it.
|
|||
|
|
5) To open this thing, put your hand underneath it and hit upward. You
|
|||
|
|
should get contact with the bottom edge of it.
|
|||
|
|
6) Now it should come open nice and easy. Look inside and you will see five
|
|||
|
|
screws in this pattern:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
*
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
7) The screw in the middle and the two on the left do nothing. (you may want
|
|||
|
|
to check the two on the left, some people have a second line hooked up to
|
|||
|
|
these two.) All you need to worry about are the two on the right. The
|
|||
|
|
one in the top right-hand corner is usually the green, and the one in the
|
|||
|
|
bottom right-hand corner is usually the red.
|
|||
|
|
8) Clip an alligator clip to the corresponding terminals. (red to red, the
|
|||
|
|
green to green.) You should get a dial tone. If you don't, switch the
|
|||
|
|
alligator clips around. If you still don't get a dial tone (or someone's
|
|||
|
|
conversation!) then the line has probably been disconnected or the fone is
|
|||
|
|
off the hook.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
IDEAS OF USE FOR THE BUD BOX
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Get a lot of wire and run it into your house. Then you'll be an extension
|
|||
|
|
of that line. The fone will ring and you can listen to everything that's
|
|||
|
|
going on the that line.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You can call direct to any place using normal BELL service (gasp!). i.e.:
|
|||
|
|
1-702-831-4263. The bill will be not be charged to you. It will be charged
|
|||
|
|
to your neighbors (or whoever.)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you want to have two lines to call (providing the house that the line
|
|||
|
|
is from is always vacant.), you can just dial: 444-1787 and you should get a
|
|||
|
|
recording stating what number it is. To test this, dial the number the re-
|
|||
|
|
cording says, if it's busy, you're set.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This has been an HMH presentation--1985
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
DR. D-CODE & THE PIMP
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Charging Box (c) Stinky Pig Productions
|
|||
|
|
---------------- --------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
What it does:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Charging Box is used to indicate when a call is being charged
|
|||
|
|
for and when it is not. Once installed, the box has two lights, a
|
|||
|
|
green and a red. Green means free and red shows that you are being
|
|||
|
|
stung by BT!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Components:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1 x green LED 1 x circuit board
|
|||
|
|
1 x red LED 2 x 10K ohm (1/4 watt) resistors
|
|||
|
|
2 x short lengths of wire 2 x small bulldog clips
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Circuit Diagram:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
| Line |
|
|||
|
|
| (50v) |
|
|||
|
|
|------ ------|
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
|-----[]------O------|
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
|-----[]------O------|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Where [] is a resistor and O is an LED.
|
|||
|
|
NB. IMPORTANT! One LED should have it's anode towards the resistor
|
|||
|
|
and the other should have it's cathode towards the
|
|||
|
|
resistor.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Connection:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Build that onto the board and connect the two points marked line
|
|||
|
|
to the wire, with the bulldog clips at the end. The box should now
|
|||
|
|
be connected to the line in parallel with the phone.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Operation:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When the line is opened (Ie. the phone lifted) the green LED will
|
|||
|
|
light (if the read one does then just reverse the polarity of the
|
|||
|
|
box). Dialling numbers (by pulse) will cause the green LED to flicker
|
|||
|
|
but while you are making free calls it should never go out and the
|
|||
|
|
red LED will not light. As soon as the exchange starts charging for
|
|||
|
|
your call, the green LED will go out and the red LED glow.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How it works:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
As the LEDs are in opposite directions, only one can light depending
|
|||
|
|
on the polarity of the current supply. This is exploited when
|
|||
|
|
the exchange begins charging as the polarity of the line is
|
|||
|
|
reversed.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Piggy The Pig
|
|||
|
|
Jan 88.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Cheese Box
|
|||
|
|
------ ---
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A cheese box (named for the type of box the first one was found in) is a
|
|||
|
|
type of box which will, in effect, make your telephone a pay-phone... this is
|
|||
|
|
a simple, modernized, and easy way of doing it.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Inside Info: These were first used by bookies many years ago as a way of
|
|||
|
|
making calls to people without being caught by the cops or having their
|
|||
|
|
numbers traced and/or tapped.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
How to make a modern Cheese Box
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Ingredients:
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
1 Call forwarding service on the line
|
|||
|
|
1 Set of Red Box tones
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The number to your prefix's intercept operator (do some scanning for this one)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How To:
|
|||
|
|
-------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
After you find the number to the intercept operator in your prefix,
|
|||
|
|
use your call-forwarding and forward all calls to her. This will make your
|
|||
|
|
phone stay off the hook (actually, now it waits for a quarter to be dropped
|
|||
|
|
in). You now have a cheese box...in order to call out on this line, you must
|
|||
|
|
use your red box tones and generate the quarter dropping in. Then, you can
|
|||
|
|
make phone calls to people! As far as i know, this is fairly safe, and they
|
|||
|
|
do not check much... although i am not sure, i think you can even make long
|
|||
|
|
distance calls.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
\ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \
|
|||
|
|
\[____________________________[_ \ /
|
|||
|
|
\[ The Chrome Box [_ A Portable Self-Contained Device
|
|||
|
|
\[ 14-JUN-88 [_ / to Manipulate Traffic Signals \
|
|||
|
|
\[ Outlaw Telecommandos [_ / by Remote Control \
|
|||
|
|
\[ Modem Free Earth [_ / \
|
|||
|
|
\[\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\[_ -=p*p=-
|
|||
|
|
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Emergency vehicles in many cities are now using devices called OptoComs.
|
|||
|
|
OptoComs are a system of sensors on traffic lights that detect a pattern
|
|||
|
|
of flashes from vehicle-mounted strobe lights.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This flash pattern varies from city to city depending on the manufacturer
|
|||
|
|
of the equipment used. Often the sensors are installed only at major
|
|||
|
|
intersections. Nevertheless, the Chrome Box, which simulates these strobe
|
|||
|
|
patterns can often be used to give your car the same priority as an
|
|||
|
|
ambulance, paramedic van, firetruck or police car.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Because of the varying patterns on different systems this phile will
|
|||
|
|
outline a general procedure for making the Chrome Box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Decoding Flash Patterns:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First, you need to observe an emergency vehicle in action. You can wait
|
|||
|
|
until you encounter one by chance, running out to see when you hear a siren,
|
|||
|
|
or when you pull over in your car to let one pass by. You might wait
|
|||
|
|
near a fire station for the next emergency to occur. Or, if you are very
|
|||
|
|
impatient, you can summon one by calling in a false alarm (not recommended in
|
|||
|
|
areas with limited services - that could divert attention from a real
|
|||
|
|
emergency). If the OptoComs in your area are the kind with a pattern of single
|
|||
|
|
flashes at a steady rhythm, you have merely to buy a strobe light at Radio Shack
|
|||
|
|
& adjust the flash rate until you can induce a traffic light to change.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If the flash pattern is more complex, you can videotape the emergency vehicle &
|
|||
|
|
then play back the tape in single-frame mode, counting the number of frames
|
|||
|
|
between each flash. Each video frame is 1/30 of a second, using this you can
|
|||
|
|
calculate the time between flashes in the pattern. Another way is to count the
|
|||
|
|
number of flashes (or flash-groups) in one minute and use that to compute the
|
|||
|
|
rate. Counting video frames will give you a good idea of the spacing of the
|
|||
|
|
flashes in a complex pattern. For really accurate information, call the fire
|
|||
|
|
station & ask them, or write to the manufacturer for a service manual, which
|
|||
|
|
will include a schematic diagram that you can use to build one. A good cover
|
|||
|
|
story for this is that you are a consultant & one of your clients asked you to
|
|||
|
|
evaluate Optocom systems, or you could pose as a free-lance journalist writing
|
|||
|
|
an article.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Modifying the Strobe Light:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You may not have to modify the strobe at all. But if you need a faster
|
|||
|
|
flash rate than your strobe allows, open it up & find the large capacitor
|
|||
|
|
inside. Capacitors are marked in microfarads, abbreviated as mf,mfd or ufd.
|
|||
|
|
By replacing the capacitor with one of the same voltage-rating (usually
|
|||
|
|
250 volts or more) and a SMALLER value in microfarads, you can increase the
|
|||
|
|
flash rate. Halving the microfarads doubles the rate.
|
|||
|
|
The other component that can be changed is the potentiometer (the speed
|
|||
|
|
control device with the knob on it). Using a smaller value (measured in
|
|||
|
|
ohms or Kilohms, abbrevaited with the greek letter 'omega' or the letter K)
|
|||
|
|
will speed up the strobe. There may also be a resistor (small cylinder with
|
|||
|
|
several colored stripes on it, and wires coming out of each end). Replacing
|
|||
|
|
this resistor with one of smaller value will also speed up the strobe.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To generate a complex pattern, you will either have to design and build a
|
|||
|
|
triggering circuit using IC chips, or rig up a mechanical device with a
|
|||
|
|
multiple-contact rotary switch and a motor. It HAS been done.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To modify the strobe for mobile operation the simplest thing is to get a
|
|||
|
|
110-volt inverter that will run off of a car battery by plugging into the
|
|||
|
|
cigarette lighter & run the strobe from that. Or, you can figure out (or find
|
|||
|
|
in a hobby electronics magazine) a strobe circuit that will run from batteries.
|
|||
|
|
Battery-powered strobes may also be availble, either assembled or as kits.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Stealth Technology:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Most light sensors and photocells are more sensitive in the infrared area of
|
|||
|
|
the light spectrum. Infrared (IR) is invisible to the human eye. Putting an
|
|||
|
|
infrared filter over the strobe light may allow the Chrome Box to operate in
|
|||
|
|
traffic undetected by police or other observers. IR filters can be obtained from
|
|||
|
|
military surplus sniperscope illuminators, or from optical supply houses like
|
|||
|
|
Dow-Corning or Edmunds Scientific Co.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Using the Chrome Box:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Mounted on your car, the Chrome Box can guarantee you green lights at major
|
|||
|
|
intersections in cities that have OptoComs. Handheld Chrome Boxes may be used to
|
|||
|
|
create gridlock by interfering with the normal flow of traffic. If you have
|
|||
|
|
access to a window overlooking a traffic light, you can play pranks by switching
|
|||
|
|
the signals at inappropriate moments, or you can plug the strobe into an exposed
|
|||
|
|
outlet at a laundromat or gas station.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Some Decoded Patterns:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Torrance, California
|
|||
|
|
Standard large Radio Shack strobe lights are used. Moderately fast rate.
|
|||
|
|
* * * * * * * *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Manhattan Beach,CA
|
|||
|
|
Flash-pairs in a 4:1 ratio, at a rate of 2 flash-pairs per second.
|
|||
|
|
* * * * * * * *
|
|||
|
|
<------ 1 sec ----->
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
******************************************************************
|
|||
|
|
* Please add any new patterns or info you discover to this Phile *
|
|||
|
|
******************************************************************
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
|
|||
|
|
/-/ The Clear Box /-/
|
|||
|
|
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
|
|||
|
|
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on
|
|||
|
|
"Post Pay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't
|
|||
|
|
require payment until after the connection is established. You pick up the
|
|||
|
|
fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after
|
|||
|
|
the person answers. If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to
|
|||
|
|
the person on the other end-because your mouth piece gets cut off, but,
|
|||
|
|
not the ear piece. (obviously these phones are nice for free calls to
|
|||
|
|
weather or time or other such recordings). All you must do is to go to
|
|||
|
|
your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor
|
|||
|
|
amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction
|
|||
|
|
pick-up would be hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation,
|
|||
|
|
except that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a
|
|||
|
|
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being
|
|||
|
|
called answers, the caller could speak through the little microphone
|
|||
|
|
instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction
|
|||
|
|
coil, and into the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast
|
|||
|
|
through the phone lines and the other party would be able to hear the
|
|||
|
|
caller. The Clear Box thus 'clears up' the problem of not being heard.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Luckily, the line will not be cut-off after a certain amount of time
|
|||
|
|
because it will wait forever for the coins to be put in. The biggest
|
|||
|
|
advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the fact that this
|
|||
|
|
type of payphone will most likely become very common. Due to a few things:
|
|||
|
|
1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first service, 2nd,
|
|||
|
|
it doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phone company) This
|
|||
|
|
payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line is
|
|||
|
|
different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone
|
|||
|
|
does all the charging, not the company.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
|
|||
|
|
@ @
|
|||
|
|
@ =->The Copper<-= @
|
|||
|
|
@ =->Box<-= @
|
|||
|
|
@ @
|
|||
|
|
@ Concieved By @
|
|||
|
|
@ The Cypher @
|
|||
|
|
@ [001010]->[1101101] @
|
|||
|
|
@ @
|
|||
|
|
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Disclaimer (I know...):
|
|||
|
|
This file is for informational purposes only. No use of this technique
|
|||
|
|
is recommended for one of many reasons: 1) It makes other Phreaks & hacks
|
|||
|
|
very upset, 2) It makes the Telco VERY upset, and you could be put away for
|
|||
|
|
a LONG time if you dont know what youre doing. Telco employees could learn
|
|||
|
|
something from the Copper Box. Well, anyway, off we go....
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Purpose:
|
|||
|
|
This box can destroy a phone company, no matter how big. You could bring
|
|||
|
|
AT&T down to their knees! Only to be used by the most irate of Phracks,
|
|||
|
|
it is intended for informational purposes only.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
History:
|
|||
|
|
This is really not a Box, but if you consider a Cheese Box a Box, then it
|
|||
|
|
is. It was first concieved back in 1986 when a Phriend and I came up with
|
|||
|
|
the idea while using a Copper-coloured fone, hence, a Copper Box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Instructions:
|
|||
|
|
You must obtain [1] extender, or phone company port, like an MCI or SPRINT
|
|||
|
|
access number. [2] A hell of a lot of nerve, and vendetta towards the phone
|
|||
|
|
company (phriend gets busted, rates increase, etc.) [3] a computer & modem
|
|||
|
|
capable of autodialing [tone.]
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Dial the number of the L/D service, then enter the code. Dial the number of
|
|||
|
|
the service again, through the outdial number you are still on, enter code,
|
|||
|
|
then dial again and again. You should hear, after a while (it will take a
|
|||
|
|
long time for BIG companies) a slight high-pitched, unstable tone, that grows
|
|||
|
|
louder and louder w/every dial. Once it gets so loud that it refuses to let
|
|||
|
|
in any more sounds, you have just completed the first cycle of the Copper Box.
|
|||
|
|
Leave line off-hook for about 10 minutes or until the tone seems to calm
|
|||
|
|
down, or stop completely. Then, dial again and repeat over and over again
|
|||
|
|
until when you dial a last time, it [the port] doesnt answer. You have just
|
|||
|
|
killed a telephone company, extender, etc.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Theory of Operation:
|
|||
|
|
What happens is that when the tone begins to rise, it is a result of cross-
|
|||
|
|
talk feedback. The more you dial, the more it grows. In systems like these,
|
|||
|
|
the small, sensitive equipment such as amplifiers, etc. begin to burn out as
|
|||
|
|
a result of the feedback, damaging the equipment, and possibly starting a fire
|
|||
|
|
at the location of the equipment.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
(*) Crimson Box (*)
|
|||
|
|
(*) Plans (*)
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Crimson Box is very simple device
|
|||
|
|
that will allow you to put someone on
|
|||
|
|
hold or make your fone busy with a
|
|||
|
|
large amount of ease. You flip a switch
|
|||
|
|
and the person can't hear you talking.
|
|||
|
|
Flip it back and everything is peechy.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
(*) Needed Materials (*)
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
[
|
|||
|
|
(1) 100 ohm or less resistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) SPDT toggle switch, On-On
|
|||
|
|
(3) feet of good wire
|
|||
|
|
Wire cutters
|
|||
|
|
Solder and soldering iron
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
(*) Construction & Schemtaic (*)
|
|||
|
|
(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)*(*)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First I will give you the schematic and
|
|||
|
|
then I will explain what the hell is
|
|||
|
|
going on.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[-----------black wire on line---------
|
|||
|
|
--------+ red wire on line +------
|
|||
|
|
--------!--+/\/\/-green wire---!------
|
|||
|
|
--------!--! yellow wire-------!------
|
|||
|
|
! ! !
|
|||
|
|
+--!------+ !
|
|||
|
|
+----+ ! +----------+
|
|||
|
|
! ! !
|
|||
|
|
1 2 3
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Ok. The '/\/\/' is the resistor. And
|
|||
|
|
'1 2 3' is the switch where the numbers
|
|||
|
|
are the poles on the switch. Notice you
|
|||
|
|
leave the black and yellow wires alone.
|
|||
|
|
You DO NOT cut them!
|
|||
|
|
[
|
|||
|
|
Strip the red and green wires so you've
|
|||
|
|
got about an inch of bare wire. Solder
|
|||
|
|
some of the extra wire and follow the
|
|||
|
|
schematic. You should have the resistor
|
|||
|
|
on the green wire with an extra piece
|
|||
|
|
of wire coming from one leg of it. The
|
|||
|
|
other leg goes to the other end of the
|
|||
|
|
green wire. You should solder the green
|
|||
|
|
wire to the left pole of the switch and
|
|||
|
|
the red to the middle and the other
|
|||
|
|
end of the red to the right pole.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now, lift up the phone. If all you get
|
|||
|
|
is an annoying buzz then throw the
|
|||
|
|
[switch and you should get a dial tone.
|
|||
|
|
If not, don't worry and just follow the
|
|||
|
|
instructions and schematic again.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_______________________________________
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This has been an HMH presentaion-1985
|
|||
|
|
Crimson Box - Written and created by:
|
|||
|
|
Dr. D-Code
|
|||
|
|
Watch for the upcoming Sand Box
|
|||
|
|
______________________________________
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
|
|||
|
|
/ How to build /
|
|||
|
|
/ -%> Day-Glo Box <%- /
|
|||
|
|
/ Written, typed, and conceptualized by /
|
|||
|
|
/ John F. Kennedy /
|
|||
|
|
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> Author's note:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Yes, yes, I know that this box is similar to several other boxes,
|
|||
|
|
including the so-called "Bud box," and the "beige box." Well, my reason for
|
|||
|
|
writing this version is because of the fact that once finished constructing
|
|||
|
|
the box, the file does not contain very much information on usage. It is
|
|||
|
|
beacuse of that reason that this file was written. By the way, call
|
|||
|
|
Ground 0 at 988-4426. Thank you.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> What is the function of a Day-Glo box?
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, a Day-glo box will let you place calls for free with no time limit,
|
|||
|
|
no possibility of a wiretap, and the calls can be placed from anywhere in the
|
|||
|
|
world. Too good to be true, you say? Well, read on.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> How does a Day-glo box work?
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A day-glo box is very easy to make, and very inexpensive to build. It
|
|||
|
|
works like this: On the outside of every home that has a phone, there is
|
|||
|
|
something called "the outside connection box," which is where the house is
|
|||
|
|
connected to Ma Bell's network. This ingenious device connects to a) your
|
|||
|
|
phone, b) the victim's outside box. You should be starting to get the idea.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> How do I construct a day-glo box?
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials necessary: 1. Radio Shack modular conversion jack
|
|||
|
|
2. A small experimenter's box (optional)
|
|||
|
|
3. 1 foot of red wire. (better to overkill)
|
|||
|
|
4. 1 foot of green wire. (same as above)
|
|||
|
|
5. 2 medium alligator clips
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, in order to construct this box, you will need all of the above
|
|||
|
|
materials. Note that your wire does not necessarily have to be red or green,
|
|||
|
|
but it is necessary that you be able to tell them apart. Also, you might want
|
|||
|
|
to use thick, easily bent wire (audio hookup wire works best) instead of bell
|
|||
|
|
wire. Now, on to the construction.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. Remove the actual modular jack from the conversion box. This can be
|
|||
|
|
done by pushing inward and then up, or you can just cut the plastic.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2. Remove the black and yellow wires from the jack. You can either clip
|
|||
|
|
these or rip them out.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3. To your newly isolated jack, add the 1 foot wire extensions to the
|
|||
|
|
respective wires. Soldering and then wrapping the connections with
|
|||
|
|
electrical tape works best.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4. Next, solder the alligator clips to the extended wires. If you do not
|
|||
|
|
wish to solder them, then just wrap the clips with the wire.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5. Now, place this newly made contraption into a box (optional). You may
|
|||
|
|
need to drill a few holes, and possibly remove the alligator clips,
|
|||
|
|
but you should have read this file first, anyway.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> Wiring Diagram
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Modular--------------Red-----+----Extension wire---------< Alligator
|
|||
|
|
Jack --------------Green---+----Extension wire---------< Clips
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Pretty easy, eh?
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> Usage of the day-glo box
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The day-glo box will work with any phone. First, you need to locate a
|
|||
|
|
house that has a phone. Next, (it's preferable to do this at night) go up
|
|||
|
|
to the and locate the outside connection box. Pop the cover off. Locate
|
|||
|
|
prong 3 and prong 4. You will attach the green wire clip to prong 3. The
|
|||
|
|
red wire clip will go to prong 4. Now, plug your phone (preferably a
|
|||
|
|
trimline or ranger) into your modular plug. You may now either listen in on
|
|||
|
|
the call (wire tap) OR you may call out to anywhere in the world. If you
|
|||
|
|
are really daring, you can bring your computer with you. Note: This box
|
|||
|
|
may also be used in conjunction with the lunch box in order to make a
|
|||
|
|
perfect phone bug.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> Other neat things you can do with your new box:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1: Call 976 numbers. This should be done very frequently. Also, I find
|
|||
|
|
that after finding the victim's outside box, several calls to the
|
|||
|
|
gay hotlin will have interesting after-effects; namely, his parents
|
|||
|
|
wondering about him.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2: Alliance teleconferencing can be accomplished quite easily. Try it!
|
|||
|
|
Call 0-700-456-1000. Or, tell the operator you'd like to initiate a
|
|||
|
|
conference.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3: Of course, you should place several calls to other countries. This can
|
|||
|
|
be accomplished by looking in the front of your white pages for the
|
|||
|
|
various country and city codes. You should be able to follow the
|
|||
|
|
directions provided in there.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-> Using your box at apartments/community connection boxes:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Have you ever wondered what those 6ft tall cabinets with the bell logo on
|
|||
|
|
them were for? Well, if you've never seen them, here's a quick description:
|
|||
|
|
They are 6ft tall by 3ft wide, and painted the dull phone company green.
|
|||
|
|
They can be opened quite easily with a 7/16ths inch socket wrench. After
|
|||
|
|
turning the bold over the handle, turn the handle to the right and pull. It
|
|||
|
|
should open, displaying over 100 different lines. Occasionally, you can find
|
|||
|
|
tech. manuals and test kits inside. They are usually located near phone
|
|||
|
|
lines.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Okay, now, once you have opened one of these calling cabinets, locate the
|
|||
|
|
line of your choice. You will have to take out both the orange and the white
|
|||
|
|
insulated screws. The purple and white wires should come off along with the
|
|||
|
|
screws. The lines go out to the house, and the screw posts are the actual
|
|||
|
|
line. Now, you should clip the alligators to the posts, with one part of
|
|||
|
|
the clip on the insulation, and one inside the screw hole to insure the
|
|||
|
|
best connection. Oh, if you want the home to remain connected, clip the
|
|||
|
|
wires inside the hole using the alligator clips. By the way, the red
|
|||
|
|
terminal on your box goes to the orange post, and the green one to the
|
|||
|
|
white post... if that doesn't work, reverse the connection. Now, to find
|
|||
|
|
out the number you have taken over, dial 380-55555555. Yes, that's eight
|
|||
|
|
fives. A computer voice should tell you what number you are on. heh.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
I hope you can take it from here. Oh, in apartments, you can find the
|
|||
|
|
calling cabinet in the basement... remember, this is not your line, so do
|
|||
|
|
anything you want. Call the President or something.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Disclaimer: I, John F. Kennedy, can not be held responsible for your actions
|
|||
|
|
in any way. This file was written for informational purposes only,
|
|||
|
|
and should not be used to make free phone calls. In downloading
|
|||
|
|
or copying this file, you are agreeing to this disclaimer.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Special thanks goes out to: The Longshot, for sending me an old Phucked Agent
|
|||
|
|
04 phile.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Topic for today: The Ditto Box
|
|||
|
|
Written By : Dr Ditto of SOF
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Definition: A special device for eavesdropping / recording phone conversations
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Most people at one time or another want to listen in on phone
|
|||
|
|
conversations... but, they often get caught if they pick up an extension
|
|||
|
|
phone, or if they tap into a line with a beige box and a phone without a
|
|||
|
|
mute button (God forbid!) Anyway, there are a few tricks you can pull so
|
|||
|
|
as not to be detected while eavesdropping. The big thing is, you need a
|
|||
|
|
phone which will NOT send ANY noise out through the line. Most modern
|
|||
|
|
phones have mute buttons, but they are a pain, cause you have to hold them
|
|||
|
|
in the whole time you're listening, and, they often cause "line noise" to
|
|||
|
|
be passed over the phone. Also, the way a lot of "1 piece" phones are
|
|||
|
|
designed, it's impossible to hold in the mute button as you pick up or hang
|
|||
|
|
up the phone, which ALWAYS makes some kind of noise. So, here's a quick
|
|||
|
|
and dirty way to "adjust" a phone, so it has a mute SWITCH, not button. A
|
|||
|
|
switch is much nicer, because you can flip it off, and not have to hold it
|
|||
|
|
the whole time you're listening. Also, a switch doesn't put out the line
|
|||
|
|
noise like a push-and-hold mute button does, because there is no friction
|
|||
|
|
which causes the contacts to rub.
|
|||
|
|
Any phone can be modified in a matter of minutes, to have a mute
|
|||
|
|
switch. All it takes is an SPST (single pole single throw) switch, and a
|
|||
|
|
bit of wire. A soldering iron also comes in handy. Here's what to do:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1) Open the phone, and find the microphone (mouthpiece). On newer phones
|
|||
|
|
this might be tough, since they are often 1 piece of molded plastic. On older
|
|||
|
|
phones, the mouthpiece cover can usually be unscrewed, allowing easy
|
|||
|
|
modification. It all depends on the phone, however. Anyway, open it up,
|
|||
|
|
and find the wires leading to the mic.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2) Cut ONE of the microphone wires, and strip back the insulation a bit.
|
|||
|
|
If there isn't a lot of extra wire running to the mic, you might want to
|
|||
|
|
solder an additional 3" on to the wire you cut, to give yourself some working
|
|||
|
|
room.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3) Find a convenient place on the phone to mount the SPST switch, and then
|
|||
|
|
solder the wire you cut to the switch. This way, you'll be able to switch
|
|||
|
|
the mic on and off whenever you want. Put the phone back together (TEST
|
|||
|
|
your work first, though!) and you have a muteable phone. So, what do you
|
|||
|
|
do with it?
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, eavesdrop from an extension in your home, a beige box, or
|
|||
|
|
wherever. The phone is silent, so you're pretty safe. Of course, you MAY
|
|||
|
|
want to take it just a bit farther...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Since you have a special phone for eavesdropping, it would really
|
|||
|
|
be nice to spice it up a bit. After all, it's hardly worth modifying a
|
|||
|
|
phone just to add a mute switch. And it would seem pretty lame if that was
|
|||
|
|
all I was gonna tell you in this file. Any moron with 3 brain cells could
|
|||
|
|
figure out how to make a muteable phone. So, on to the INTERESTING stuff...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is something I rigged up at home, and don't know if it's got an
|
|||
|
|
official "box" color, or name, or whatever. I'm sure somebody somewhere
|
|||
|
|
has done it, but since I never saw a file on it, I thought I'd write one.
|
|||
|
|
Egotistical person I am, I'll call it a "DiTTo Box" - but for good reason.
|
|||
|
|
See, it allows you to tape record any phone conversation, and also to
|
|||
|
|
listen in at the same time, over a stereo or boom box. And, it uses the
|
|||
|
|
muteable phone, above. Here's how it works:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
All phones have a speaker in them, through which you hear the
|
|||
|
|
person talking to you. What the DiTTo Box does is allow you to run the
|
|||
|
|
signals through a stereo, and out the stereo speakers, instead of through
|
|||
|
|
the phone speaker. To do this, you are going to need a phone dedicated to
|
|||
|
|
DiTTo Boxing. Any phone will do, and you can modify it in 2 different ways
|
|||
|
|
- you can make it a true DiTTo box, and it won't serve it's purpose as a
|
|||
|
|
phone that you can converse on any longer, or you can make a "lower
|
|||
|
|
quality" DiTTo Box, which you will still be able to use as a phone, but the
|
|||
|
|
boxing quality will be slightly weakened.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The difference lies in whether or not you keep the speaker in the phone.
|
|||
|
|
You can keep the speaker in the phone, and run wires from the speaker
|
|||
|
|
terminals to the input lines of your stereo, and it WILL work, but the
|
|||
|
|
sound quality over the stereo won't be as good. OR, you can remove the
|
|||
|
|
phone speaker entirely, and in it's place connect 2 alligator clips, one to
|
|||
|
|
each speaker output wire. This is a dedicated DiTTo Box. I chose to go
|
|||
|
|
with the lower quality box, simply because I don't do a whole lot of
|
|||
|
|
eavesdropping, and I only had 1 phone I could modify, which I also use for
|
|||
|
|
beige boxing. Still, it serves my purpose both ways.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To get the box working, solder leads from the 2 speaker terminals
|
|||
|
|
to alligator clips. Give yourself about 6-8 inches of wire at least! The
|
|||
|
|
best length would be about 18 inches, if you plan on connecting to a home
|
|||
|
|
stereo. Once the leads are soldered, you can connect them to the INPUT
|
|||
|
|
jacks on your home stereo, or boom box. You can even hook them up in your car,
|
|||
|
|
if your car has LINE IN or CD INPUT capability. Anyway, most stereos use
|
|||
|
|
the RCA plug for connections. So, get an RCA plug off an old speaker or
|
|||
|
|
something, and clip the alligator clips to it. Plug it into the stereo,
|
|||
|
|
and set the selector on the reciever to accept input from the phone. Take
|
|||
|
|
the phone off the hook, and you will hear a dialtone over your stereo
|
|||
|
|
speakers. (yes, you MUST plug the phone into the phoneline for this to
|
|||
|
|
work) Now, try dialing... you will hear the tones over the stereo. If you
|
|||
|
|
have a tape deck on the stereo, you can record your phone conversations.
|
|||
|
|
If you have a phone rigged up like this, and call someone, you can tape the
|
|||
|
|
entire conversation, and they'll never know! Incoming calls are a bit
|
|||
|
|
trickier, but they can be recorded too. The toughest part is trying to get
|
|||
|
|
the stereo turned on and everything quiet before answering the phone, to
|
|||
|
|
waylay any suspicion. Also, keep the stereo on LOW volume, to avoid
|
|||
|
|
squealing from feedback.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
There are lots of uses for a DiTTo box, and I've told only one or
|
|||
|
|
two. You can use the box to record dialing tones on cassette, then carry
|
|||
|
|
them with you, to be used in a cassette player at a payphone, whatever.
|
|||
|
|
Plenty of possibilities exist, that's for sure. Just remember, phone
|
|||
|
|
tapping and eavesdropping are classified as a FEDERAL OFFENSE, so it's best
|
|||
|
|
not to get caught. Have phun, and party on!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
---DoctoR DiTTo
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Written by: Mavicon M.D.
|
|||
|
|
Design: The Ear and Mavicon M.D.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Diverter Plans
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts List:
|
|||
|
|
Everything can be obtained at your local Radio-Shack. As much as
|
|||
|
|
i hate that store, they are convenient...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
RLY1 DPDT relay
|
|||
|
|
T1 1:1 audio transformer
|
|||
|
|
D1 1N914 or similar diode
|
|||
|
|
D2 large LED
|
|||
|
|
LMP1 neon lamp
|
|||
|
|
R1 10 k
|
|||
|
|
R2 photocell
|
|||
|
|
R3 22 k
|
|||
|
|
R4 47 k
|
|||
|
|
Q1 2N2222, 2N3904, 2N4401, most any other NPN switching
|
|||
|
|
transistor
|
|||
|
|
1 nine volt battery. The negative terminal goes to ground on the
|
|||
|
|
schematic. Positive terminal to +9 volts.
|
|||
|
|
Black electrical tape
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Assembly:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The best way to assemble the design is to grab one of those small
|
|||
|
|
copper lined perfboards from Radio-Shack. They are nice to work
|
|||
|
|
on, and can easily be trimmed down to a minimum size once
|
|||
|
|
everything is soldered in. The process is the same as any other,
|
|||
|
|
solder all the parts in per the schematic. The photocell must be
|
|||
|
|
in a position so that the light from the neon lamp(LMP1) and the
|
|||
|
|
LED(D2) both shine on it. No other light must get in, so use
|
|||
|
|
some black electrical tape to seal it all up. All the polarity
|
|||
|
|
must be observed. Whichever direction you put the LED in, you
|
|||
|
|
must remember (color code your wires, green is positive, red is
|
|||
|
|
negative, yellow is positive, black is negative) the negative
|
|||
|
|
side of the line must go to its negative side. The same goes for
|
|||
|
|
the transformer. The positive side of each line has to be
|
|||
|
|
connected to the correct pair on the transformer. On the Radio-
|
|||
|
|
Shack transformers, put positive of both lines on the Red and
|
|||
|
|
Black pairs, The negative on Yellow and White. Our prototypes
|
|||
|
|
have reached less that 1" x 1" in size.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Theory of Operation:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The diverter works on some basic electronic principals.
|
|||
|
|
Step by step:
|
|||
|
|
The phone rings. The neon lamp is activated by the high
|
|||
|
|
voltage(88 p-p) ac and flashes. This light shines on the
|
|||
|
|
photocell, decreasing its resistance. When this happens, the
|
|||
|
|
positive voltage flowing through the photocell and the 10k
|
|||
|
|
resistor exceed the breakdown voltage of the base of the
|
|||
|
|
transistor and switches that transistor on. Once the transistor
|
|||
|
|
is on, current flows freely from emitter to collector, energizing
|
|||
|
|
the relay. The relay's two sets of switches connect both lines
|
|||
|
|
to the 1:1 audio transformer, effectively taking both lines off
|
|||
|
|
the hook and coupling any audio signals from either line to the
|
|||
|
|
other one. Once this happens, current is now flowing through the
|
|||
|
|
transformer, relay, and LED loop. This current lights the LED
|
|||
|
|
and that light shines on the photocell. This is what keeps the
|
|||
|
|
device latched. The light from the LED keeps the photocell
|
|||
|
|
resistance low enough to keep the transistor on. Now, you make
|
|||
|
|
your call and get on with your business. You hang up. Now, the
|
|||
|
|
local CO keeps current flowing through the indial line for about
|
|||
|
|
5 seconds, at which point it drops down for a second or so and
|
|||
|
|
then goes back up. This is the signal the device uses to
|
|||
|
|
determine when you've hung up. When the current drops down,
|
|||
|
|
there is no light from the LED, and the photocell resistance
|
|||
|
|
raises enough to turn the transistor off and delatch the entire
|
|||
|
|
system.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Applications:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The applications are relatively obvious. Hook it up to two
|
|||
|
|
unused lines and make free calls. Hook it up to two payphones,
|
|||
|
|
and red box calls. The only thing to watch out for is ringing.
|
|||
|
|
If you hook it up to a residential line for the indial a small
|
|||
|
|
(maybe 1/8) of a ring occurs when you call, tipping off people
|
|||
|
|
inside the house.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|-------------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
| | o +9V
|
|||
|
|
| L1+ T1 | |
|
|||
|
|
| o-------wwwww----------| | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | |
|
|||
|
|
| L1- | | |
|
|||
|
|
| o-------------| | | o--------|
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| L2- | |---l----------l---------l--| _____
|
|||
|
|
o-------\ LMP1 | | | \| | | w | /^\ D1
|
|||
|
|
R4 47k * | | | | |\ | w | /---\
|
|||
|
|
--\/\/--/ | | | | | | | w | |
|
|||
|
|
| | |-l----------l-----------l--| |
|
|||
|
|
| | | RY1 | | |
|
|||
|
|
o L2+ |------| | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | o---------
|
|||
|
|
| | |
|
|||
|
|
| | ----|
|
|||
|
|
| D2 | /
|
|||
|
|
| |\ | T1 | /
|
|||
|
|
|----------| >|-----wwwwww---------- /
|
|||
|
|
|/ | 000
|
|||
|
|
|--------- 000 Q1
|
|||
|
|
| 000
|
|||
|
|
oooo | \
|
|||
|
|
o o 10k | \
|
|||
|
|
o-------o-/\/\/o------------/\/\/---| \
|
|||
|
|
+9V o o R2 \ R1 |
|
|||
|
|
oooo / 22k -----
|
|||
|
|
\ R3 ---
|
|||
|
|
| -
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-----
|
|||
|
|
---
|
|||
|
|
-
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
|
|||
|
|
- T h e G R A B B o x -
|
|||
|
|
- - - - - - - - - - - - - -
|
|||
|
|
By: Shadowspawn (502)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This box is dedicated to all the people that can't solder
|
|||
|
|
two wires together, nevermind a complete circuit... The GRAB
|
|||
|
|
Box is probably the easiest box that can be made. It's also
|
|||
|
|
one of the most useful! This box uses inductive coupling to
|
|||
|
|
join with any radio that uses a coil for an antenna (such as an
|
|||
|
|
AM, longwave, or shortwave radio) and allows you to lengthen it
|
|||
|
|
considerably. I've seen these in DAK and other catalogues for
|
|||
|
|
20+ dollars! Now DAK is a great company, but you can make one
|
|||
|
|
or two of these yourself for under seven dollars!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Here's the schematic, get ready to be surprised:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
O <---- Fahnstock clip
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
| _____ Variable
|
|||
|
|
+--------------+------------+ \/ Capacitor
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
~ +--)|-+
|
|||
|
|
~ <--- Coil |
|
|||
|
|
~ |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
+---------------------------------+
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Things you'll need/specs: It'll look something like this:
|
|||
|
|
+----antenna-----------o
|
|||
|
|
- 365pF Variable Capacitor |
|
|||
|
|
- Hand-wound coil: 1 inch dia. <C>F--/\--|COIL||--\
|
|||
|
|
11 inches long with holes | \/--|||||||--/-+
|
|||
|
|
2 inches from each end +-------------------+
|
|||
|
|
and #22 enameled wire
|
|||
|
|
wrapped between them.
|
|||
|
|
- Three corner braces (brass)
|
|||
|
|
- Four wood screws | Sand the enamel off |
|
|||
|
|
- 1 x 3 x 13 or so baseboard | the ends of the coil |
|
|||
|
|
- 30+ foot wire w/ alligator | the nearest end goes |
|
|||
|
|
clip to attach to | to the F. clip, the |
|
|||
|
|
Fahnstock Clip | farthest end to the |
|
|||
|
|
- Fahnstock Clip | plate contact. The |
|
|||
|
|
| antenna clip goes to |
|
|||
|
|
| the F. Clip. |
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Put this device next to the coil that's inside your radio.
|
|||
|
|
(The Grab box doesn't need to be inside it though, just close by)
|
|||
|
|
The closer you place it to your radio's coil, the stronger it is,
|
|||
|
|
the farther away, the more selectivity it has. And don't forget
|
|||
|
|
to peak the capacitor each time you change frequency...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You can usually pick up a few states around you during the
|
|||
|
|
day and stations all over the US and elsewhere at night! Have
|
|||
|
|
fun!!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Shadowspawn (502)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[ THE GREEN BOX : BIOC AGENT 003'S COURSE IN BASIC TELECOMMUNICATIONS/ PART6 ]
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Green Box generates useful tones such as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, and
|
|||
|
|
RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to
|
|||
|
|
the CO when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a
|
|||
|
|
fortress station, but must be used by the CALLED party. The tones (hz) are:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
COIN COLLECT700 + 1100
|
|||
|
|
COIN RETURN1100 + 1700
|
|||
|
|
RINGBACK700 + 1700
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released
|
|||
|
|
signal should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO. This can be done
|
|||
|
|
by sending 900 + 1500 Hz or a single 2600 Hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms
|
|||
|
|
gap and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 ms. Also, do not forget
|
|||
|
|
that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
We have taken this information and written a software green box for the Cat.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
After a lengthy pause to admire first our interesting club title page, please
|
|||
|
|
take a moment to marvel at the nice graphics used in the actual program. You
|
|||
|
|
will then notice that there are four main options:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
AWAIT CALLER: This option will set your system awaiting callers. When
|
|||
|
|
someone calls, the Cat will answer the phone and send
|
|||
|
|
the predefined signals, pause, and then hang up. You
|
|||
|
|
should notice the status line and indecators at the
|
|||
|
|
upper left hand corner. The status line shows you what
|
|||
|
|
is happening at a given time. The indecators in the box
|
|||
|
|
at the upper left hand corner represent:
|
|||
|
|
L=20 Length of signal (default is 20).
|
|||
|
|
C=00 Number of calls received.
|
|||
|
|
HUNG/PICK The current phone status.
|
|||
|
|
The AWAIT CALLER option has several nice applications:
|
|||
|
|
1. Return your money to you when you call home.
|
|||
|
|
2. Collect money from anyone calling from a payphone
|
|||
|
|
so that they can't talk or anything. (nasty...)
|
|||
|
|
3. After it hangs up on them, they will wonder what was
|
|||
|
|
wrong with your phone. When the payphone starts
|
|||
|
|
ringing, they will wonder otherwise.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
COLLECT CONTENTS: This option will cause the contents of the "holding
|
|||
|
|
chamber" to be dumped into the "main vault". It will
|
|||
|
|
also cause the payphone to begin demanding more money.
|
|||
|
|
RETURN CONTENTS: This option will cause the contents of the H.C. to be
|
|||
|
|
dumped into the coin return slot, and so returning them
|
|||
|
|
to the caller.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
RINGBACK PAYPHONE: This option will cause the CO to call the payphone the
|
|||
|
|
caller was calling from.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Other options of The Green Box include:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[P]ickup phone and [H]angup phone.
|
|||
|
|
[D]ial (TOUCHTONE + BLUEBOX)
|
|||
|
|
[T]ones - Mix & create your own tones.
|
|||
|
|
[Q]uit - Again, you will be amazed at
|
|||
|
|
the incredibly stupid graphics.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
We would like to formally thank the authors of The Electronic Box because we
|
|||
|
|
used the hertz/tone mixing routines from that wonderful program. Thanx guys!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
///PAY TV DECODER PLANS///
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1 - Radio Shack mini-box ( #270-235)
|
|||
|
|
1 - 1/4 watt resistor, 2.2k-2.4k ohm
|
|||
|
|
(RS #271-1325)
|
|||
|
|
1 - 75pf-100pf variable capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(Hard to find)
|
|||
|
|
2 - F61a chassis-type coaxial
|
|||
|
|
connectors (RS #278-212)
|
|||
|
|
12" - No. 12 solid copper wire
|
|||
|
|
12" - RG59 coaxial cable
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
///INSTRUCTIONS///
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. Bare a length of No. 12 gauge solid
|
|||
|
|
copper wire and twist around a 3/8"
|
|||
|
|
nail or rod to form a coil of 9 turns.
|
|||
|
|
Elongate coil to a length of 1 1/2"
|
|||
|
|
inches and form right angle bends on
|
|||
|
|
each end.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2. Solder the varible capacitor to
|
|||
|
|
the coil. It doesn't matter where you
|
|||
|
|
solder it, it still does the same job.
|
|||
|
|
The best place for it is in the center
|
|||
|
|
with the adjustment screw facing upward
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Note: When it comes time to place coil
|
|||
|
|
in box, the coil must be insulated from
|
|||
|
|
grounding. This can be done by crazy-
|
|||
|
|
glueing a piece of rubber to the bottom
|
|||
|
|
of the box, and securing the coil to it.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3. Tap coil at points 2 1/2 turns from
|
|||
|
|
ends of coil and solder to coaxial
|
|||
|
|
chassis connectors, bringing tap leads
|
|||
|
|
through holes in chassis box. Use as
|
|||
|
|
little wire as possible.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4. Solder resistor to center of coil
|
|||
|
|
and ground other end of resistor to
|
|||
|
|
chassis box, using solder lug and small
|
|||
|
|
screw.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5. Drill a 1/2" diameter hold in mini-
|
|||
|
|
box cover to permit adjustment of the
|
|||
|
|
variable capacitor from the outside.
|
|||
|
|
Inspect the device for defects in
|
|||
|
|
workmanship and place cover on mini-
|
|||
|
|
box. Tighten securely.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
6. Place device in line with existing
|
|||
|
|
cable on either side of the coverter
|
|||
|
|
box and connect to television set with
|
|||
|
|
the short piece of RG59 coaxial cable.
|
|||
|
|
Set television set to HBO channel.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
7. Using a plastic screwdriver (non-matalic)
|
|||
|
|
adjust the varible capacitor until picture
|
|||
|
|
tunes in. Sit back, relax, and enjoy!!!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(%>+<------------------------------------------------------------------->+<%)
|
|||
|
|
)+) The Crack Shop ! presents - Infinity Boxes - Uploaded by Iron Man (+(
|
|||
|
|
(%>+<------------------------------------------------------------------->+<%)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This stuff from IRON MAN -- foratted 80 columns
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
In answer to all those who don't knowwhat an infinity transmitter is, here
|
|||
|
|
is A little history:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A guy by the name Manny Mittleman ra a company called the wireless guitar
|
|||
|
|
company located on Liberty St. In NY. Aide from wireless guitars, Manny also
|
|||
|
|
built all sorts of electronic wireless bugs". One item, The infinity
|
|||
|
|
transmitter was a device that was place inside an unsuspecting persons
|
|||
|
|
telephone.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When the phone number of that telephoe was dialed and a certain note was
|
|||
|
|
blown into the phone from a hohner, keyof-c, harmonica, the bugged phone did
|
|||
|
|
not ring, and what's more, enabled the aller to then hear everything said in
|
|||
|
|
he room that the phone was located in. As long as the caller wanted to stay
|
|||
|
|
on the phone, all was open to him or he. If the phone was lifted off the
|
|||
|
|
hook, the transmitter was disconected ad the "bugged" party received a dial
|
|||
|
|
tone as if nothing was wrong with the lne.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Remember, all this was constructed inthe 1960x's when ic's were not as
|
|||
|
|
commonplace as they are today. Also ber in mind that during that period in
|
|||
|
|
time, even the telephone company was no quite sure on how well or how
|
|||
|
|
portable tone decoding was.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Ps. Many government agency's were someof manny's best customers.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
BUILDING A RED BOX
|
|||
|
|
by J.R."Bob" Dobbs
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Essentially,the red box is a device used to fool the phone company
|
|||
|
|
into thinking you are depositing coins into a payphone. Every time you
|
|||
|
|
drop a coin into a payphone, the phone signals the type of coin inserted
|
|||
|
|
with one or more bursts of a combination of 1700hz and 2200hz. The tone
|
|||
|
|
bursts are coded as follows:
|
|||
|
|
Nickel:One 60 millisecond pulse
|
|||
|
|
Dime :Two 60 millisecond pulses separated by 60 milliseconds
|
|||
|
|
Quarter:Five 35 millisecond pulses separated by 35 milliseconds
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
HOW TO USE IT
|
|||
|
|
-------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Operation is simple. Simply dial a long distance number (some areas
|
|||
|
|
require you to stick in a genuine nickel first), wait for the ACTS
|
|||
|
|
computer to demand your cash, and press the "deposit" button on the red
|
|||
|
|
box for each coin you want to simulate. The coin signals are coupled
|
|||
|
|
from the red box into the phone with a small speaker held to the
|
|||
|
|
mouthpiece. For local calls, either you must first deposit a genuine
|
|||
|
|
nickel before "simulating" more coins or place your call through the
|
|||
|
|
operator with 0 + 7d. Use some care when the operator is on the
|
|||
|
|
line--sometimes they catch on to your beeper ploy.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
CIRCUIT OPERATION
|
|||
|
|
-----------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Each time the pushbutton is pressed, it triggers half of IC1,
|
|||
|
|
configured as a monostable multivibrator to energize the rest of the
|
|||
|
|
circuit for a length of time determined by the setting of the coin
|
|||
|
|
selector switch. This in turn starts the other half of IC1, configured
|
|||
|
|
as an astable multivibrator, pulsing on and off at regular intervals at
|
|||
|
|
a rate determined by the 50k pot between pins 12 and 13. The output of
|
|||
|
|
the astable thus alternately powers of IC2, configured as a square wave
|
|||
|
|
oscillator, providing the required 1700hz and 2200hz to the op amp which
|
|||
|
|
acts as a buffer to drive the speaker.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
CONSTRUCTION
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Assemble the circuit as you wish. Component placement is not
|
|||
|
|
critical. I found the easiest method was to use point-to-point wiring
|
|||
|
|
on a "universal" PC grid board with solder ringed holes. Use sockets if
|
|||
|
|
you aren't a whiz with a soldering iron. Be sure to leave easy access
|
|||
|
|
to the potentiometers for alignment.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
ALIGNMENT AND TESTING
|
|||
|
|
---------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
For alignment, a frequency counter and tiggered sweep oscilloscope
|
|||
|
|
are extremely handy (but not absolutely necessary.)
|
|||
|
|
Install a temporary jumper from +9v supply to pin 14 of IC2 and
|
|||
|
|
temporarily disconnect the 0.01uF capacitors from pins 5 and 9 of IC2.
|
|||
|
|
Power up the circuit. Measuring the output from pin 5 of IC2 with the
|
|||
|
|
frequency counter, adjust the 20k pot between pins 1 and 6 for an output
|
|||
|
|
of 1700hz. Now adjust the 20k pot between pins 8 and 13 for an output
|
|||
|
|
of 2200hz from pin 9 of IC2. Remove the temporary jumper and re-attach
|
|||
|
|
the capacitors to pins 5 and 9. (Note: if no frequency counter is
|
|||
|
|
available, the outputs can be adjusted by ear one at a time by
|
|||
|
|
zero-beating the output tone with a computer generated tone of known
|
|||
|
|
precision.)
|
|||
|
|
Next, temporarily disconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10 of IC1.
|
|||
|
|
Set coin selector switch in the "N" (nickel) position. With the
|
|||
|
|
oscilloscope measuring the output from pin 9 of IC1, adjust the 50k pot
|
|||
|
|
between pins 12 and 13 of IC1 for output pulses of 60 millisecond
|
|||
|
|
duration. Reconnect the wire between pins 5 and 10. (Note: If no scope
|
|||
|
|
is available, adjust the pulse rate by ear using computer generated
|
|||
|
|
tones for comparison.)
|
|||
|
|
The remaining adjustments are made by ear.
|
|||
|
|
Leave the selector switch in the "N" position. Adjust the 50k pot
|
|||
|
|
labelled "Dime" for a quick double beep each time the pushbutton is
|
|||
|
|
pressed.
|
|||
|
|
Finally, set the selector to "Quarter". Adjust the 50k pot labelled
|
|||
|
|
"Quarter" until exactly 5 very quick beeps are heard for each button
|
|||
|
|
press. Don't worry if the quarter beeps sound shorter and faster than
|
|||
|
|
the nickel and dime ones. They should be.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
CONCLUSION
|
|||
|
|
----------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If all went well to this point, your red box should be completely
|
|||
|
|
aligned and functional. A final test should now be conducted from a
|
|||
|
|
payphone using the DATL (dial access test line) coin test. Dial
|
|||
|
|
09591230 and follow the computer instructions using the red box at the
|
|||
|
|
proper prompts. The computer should correctly identify all coins
|
|||
|
|
"simulated" and flag any anomalies. With a little discretion, your red
|
|||
|
|
box should bring you many years of use. Remember, there's no such thing
|
|||
|
|
as spare change.!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts list for Red Box
|
|||
|
|
----------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Semiconductors
|
|||
|
|
--------------
|
|||
|
|
(2)556 dual timer
|
|||
|
|
(1)741 Op Amp
|
|||
|
|
(1)1N914 Switching Diode
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Resistors
|
|||
|
|
---------
|
|||
|
|
(6)10k (1)4.7k
|
|||
|
|
(2)100k
|
|||
|
|
(4)50k PC Mount Potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
(2)20k Multi-Turn Potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Capacitors
|
|||
|
|
----------
|
|||
|
|
(10)0.01uF (1)1.0uF
|
|||
|
|
(2)10.0uF Electrolytic
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Miscellaneous
|
|||
|
|
-------------
|
|||
|
|
(2)14 Pin Dip Socket
|
|||
|
|
(1)8 Pin Dip Socket
|
|||
|
|
(1)3-position Rotary Switch
|
|||
|
|
(1)Momentary Push-Button Switch(normally open)
|
|||
|
|
(1)SPST Toggle Switch
|
|||
|
|
(1)Speaker or Telephone Earpiece Circuit Board
|
|||
|
|
Box
|
|||
|
|
Mounting Hardware
|
|||
|
|
9v Battery Clip
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
SCHEMATIC DRAWING
|
|||
|
|
-----------------
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
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|||
|
|
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|
|||
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|||
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|||
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|||
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
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|
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|
|||
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
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|
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|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
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|
|||
|
|
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|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
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|
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|||
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|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
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|
|||
|
|
g C8 <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> C11 <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> C9 C10 <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20> <20> g <20>
|
|||
|
|
g <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20>
|
|||
|
|
g <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> R14 <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20>\ <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20> \ <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>ij3 \<5C>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20> 7 \
|
|||
|
|
C13 R15 <20>IC3 \
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20>741 6/<2F><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20> 4 / <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20> <20> / <20>
|
|||
|
|
g g <20><>Ĵ2 / <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20>/ <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> g <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ĵ
|
|||
|
|
C14
|
|||
|
|
<20>
|
|||
|
|
Speaker
|
|||
|
|
<20>
|
|||
|
|
g
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Schematic part variables list.
|
|||
|
|
------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Resistors
|
|||
|
|
---------
|
|||
|
|
R1 - 10k R2 - 10k R3 -4.7k R4 - 10k R5 - 10k R6 - 50k
|
|||
|
|
R7 - 50k R8 - 50k R9 - 50k R10- 20k R11- 10k R12- 10k
|
|||
|
|
R13- 20k R14-100k R15-100k
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Capacitors
|
|||
|
|
----------
|
|||
|
|
C1 - 0.01uf C2 - 1N914 switching Diode C3 - 1.0uf C4 - 0.01uf
|
|||
|
|
C5 - 0.01uf C6 - 10uf C7 - 0.01uf C8 - 0.01uf C9 - 0.01uf
|
|||
|
|
C10 - 0.01uf C11 - 0.01uf C12 - 0.01uf C13 - 0.01uf C14 - 10uf
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Switches
|
|||
|
|
--------
|
|||
|
|
S1 - SPST toggle
|
|||
|
|
S2 - Momentary push button N.O. labeled "Deposit"
|
|||
|
|
S3 - 3-position rotary switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Miscellaneous
|
|||
|
|
-------------
|
|||
|
|
g - Ground
|
|||
|
|
@q - Label "quarter"
|
|||
|
|
@d - Label "dime"
|
|||
|
|
@n - Label "nickle"
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Typed up by Sine Wave from an article which originally appeared in 2600
|
|||
|
|
magazine. The original contained several mistakes in the schematic
|
|||
|
|
drawing which i've corrected. Hope this information enlightens you to
|
|||
|
|
new and exciting possibilities via your local phone booth.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How to make an in-use light
|
|||
|
|
from the Night Owl AE
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This file describes the operation and construction of a device that will
|
|||
|
|
signal whether or not an extension of a particular phone line is off-hook. It
|
|||
|
|
does NOT indicate whether or not a phone is being tapped, and will light
|
|||
|
|
whenever any extension is picked up.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The principle under which this device operates is that there is a voltage
|
|||
|
|
across the red and green wires of the phone line (the other wires are rarely
|
|||
|
|
used) that drops significantly when an extension is lifted. Though this
|
|||
|
|
voltage can be used to power a light on its own, the light would have to be of
|
|||
|
|
a very low power consumption in order not to keep the phone off-hook, and it
|
|||
|
|
would only light when the phone is on-hook.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A simple way to get around the above problem is to use a low current relay.
|
|||
|
|
Radio Shack sells some nice 12VDC SPDT relays that work well for this purpose.
|
|||
|
|
Don't buy the reed relays or the subminis; though you want a low current coil,
|
|||
|
|
you also want the contacts to be able to handle a decent current. DPDT
|
|||
|
|
(double pole, double throw) will also work, you just won't use the other
|
|||
|
|
contacts.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
For a 12 volt coil, the voltage will have to be dropped so that the relay will
|
|||
|
|
function properly. The proper resistance is around 10K ohms, but it is best
|
|||
|
|
to use a 5K ohm fixed resistor and a 10K ohm variable (standard values, any
|
|||
|
|
combination that can cover the 10K range will work fine). Adjust it to
|
|||
|
|
approximately 10K, or halfway for the combination above. Connect the
|
|||
|
|
resistors in series with the coil, and we'll adjust it later.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Due to the nature of this device (or rather, its simplicity) it will operate
|
|||
|
|
without having to be plugged into a phone, or vice versa. In other words, you
|
|||
|
|
can plug it directly into a jack anywhere, and it'll work. You'll want to get
|
|||
|
|
a modular plug that terminates in spade lugs for this purpose. Connect the
|
|||
|
|
green wire to one side of the coil, and the red to the resistors (so that it's
|
|||
|
|
all in series). If you don't have an extra phone jack, then you will want to
|
|||
|
|
a) buy a Y connector so that two phones can be plugged into the same jack, or
|
|||
|
|
b) get another phone jack and install it in the same box with the in-use
|
|||
|
|
light, so that you can plug a phone into it. Just connect the spade lugs to
|
|||
|
|
their respective colors.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
For the light itself, you can use almost anything. Even a tiny light bulb and
|
|||
|
|
a battery will work fine, but after about 5 hours of phone use, you'll have to
|
|||
|
|
replace the battery. The best thing to use is a neon bulb powered by the 110V
|
|||
|
|
power available most places. Buy ones with dropping resistors, or use a 220K
|
|||
|
|
resistor for dropping. You should also get a panel lamp assembly to keep it
|
|||
|
|
steady and make it look pretty. Since the current is relatively low, you can
|
|||
|
|
use almost any power cord, or sacrifice an old extension cord. Connect it in
|
|||
|
|
series with the NC (normally closed) contacts of the relay (in series with the
|
|||
|
|
dropping resistor, of course).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Your circuits should now look like this:
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
--------RED----!---- 5k --- 10k -------O O-------------------!-----110V
|
|||
|
|
/ | |
|
|||
|
|
coil NC /
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
-------GREEN---!-----------------------O O-- bulb --- 220k --!-----110V
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Make sure that the phone circuit (left) and the lamp circuit (right) are
|
|||
|
|
totally 100% separate, and in no danger of touching. Use wire nuts for all
|
|||
|
|
connections in 110V that are not to a terminal post, and tape them. For all
|
|||
|
|
wires that are exposed, use electrical tape or shrink-wrap tubing to insulate
|
|||
|
|
them. Glue the relay to the box or mount it on a stable PC board.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If all looks well, hook it up. It should work immediately, but there are
|
|||
|
|
three things that can go wrong: 1) The relay keeps the phone off the hook.
|
|||
|
|
To remedy this, lower the resistance until it doesn't. If you can't lower the
|
|||
|
|
resistance enough, then you are using a resistor with a high current coil and
|
|||
|
|
you'll have to get one with a lower rating. 2) The relay won't close. The
|
|||
|
|
solution for this is the same as number 1. 3) The relay stays closed. Raise
|
|||
|
|
the resistance with the phone on hook until the light goes off.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When all is working, the lamp should be on when one or more extensions are
|
|||
|
|
off-hook, and will be off when all extensions are on-hook. It will blink when
|
|||
|
|
the phone rings.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is a parts list:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1 box. Make it a nice one, preferably one with feet.
|
|||
|
|
1 phone cord with a modular plug at one end and spade lugs at the other.
|
|||
|
|
1 phone jack or Y adapter (optional).
|
|||
|
|
1 power cord or old extension cord.
|
|||
|
|
1 low current coil relay, double throw.
|
|||
|
|
1 5K fixed resistor.
|
|||
|
|
1 10K variable resistor.
|
|||
|
|
1 neon bulb with dropping resistor.
|
|||
|
|
1 panel lamp assembly. Some come with bulbs.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
That's it. You may trade this file however you wish.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>
|
|||
|
|
%> <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> Making the <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> Lunch Box <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> ===== === <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> Written, Typed and Created by: Dr. D-Code <%>
|
|||
|
|
%> <%>
|
|||
|
|
<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>^<%>
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Introduction
|
|||
|
|
===========
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Lunch Box is a VERY simple transmitter which can be handy for all sorts of
|
|||
|
|
things. It is quite small and can easily be put in a number of places. I have
|
|||
|
|
successfully used it for tapping fones, getting inside info, blackmail and
|
|||
|
|
other such things. The possibilities are endless. I will also include the plans
|
|||
|
|
or an equally small receiver for your newly made toy. Use it for just about
|
|||
|
|
anything. You can also make the transmitter and receiver together in one box
|
|||
|
|
and use it as a walkie talkie.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials you will need
|
|||
|
|
======================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip
|
|||
|
|
(1) 25-mfd, 15 volt electrolytic capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(2) .0047 mfd capacitors
|
|||
|
|
(1) .022 mfd capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 51 pf capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(1) Transistor antenna coil
|
|||
|
|
(1) 2N366 transistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 2N464 transistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 100k resistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 5.6k resistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 10k resistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 2meg potentiometer with SPST switch
|
|||
|
|
Some good wire, solder, soldering iron, board to put it on, box (optional)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Schematic for The Lunch Box
|
|||
|
|
===========================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This may get a tad confusing but just print it out and pay attention.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[!]
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
51 pf
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
---+---- ------------base collector
|
|||
|
|
! )( 2N366 +----+------/\/\/----GND
|
|||
|
|
365 pf () emitter !
|
|||
|
|
! )( ! !
|
|||
|
|
+-------- ---+---- ! !
|
|||
|
|
! ! ! ! !
|
|||
|
|
GND / .022mfd ! !
|
|||
|
|
10k\ ! ! !
|
|||
|
|
/ GND +------------------------emitter
|
|||
|
|
! ! ! 2N464
|
|||
|
|
/ .0047 ! base collector
|
|||
|
|
2meg \----+ ! ! +--------+ !
|
|||
|
|
/ ! GND ! ! !
|
|||
|
|
GND ! ! !
|
|||
|
|
+-------------+.0047+--------------------+ ! !
|
|||
|
|
! +--25mfd-----+
|
|||
|
|
-----------------------------------------+ ! !
|
|||
|
|
microphone +--/\/\/-----+
|
|||
|
|
---------------------------------------------+ 100k !
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
GND---->/<---------------------!+!+!+---------------+
|
|||
|
|
switch Battery
|
|||
|
|
from 2meg pot.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Notes about the schematic
|
|||
|
|
=========================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. GND means ground
|
|||
|
|
2. The GND near the switch and the GND by the 2meg potentiometer should be
|
|||
|
|
connected.
|
|||
|
|
3. Where you see: )(
|
|||
|
|
()
|
|||
|
|
)( it is the transistor antenna coil with 15 turns of
|
|||
|
|
regular hook-up wire around it.
|
|||
|
|
4. The middle of the loop on the left side (the left of "()") you should run
|
|||
|
|
a wire down to the "+" which has nothing attached to it. There is a .0047
|
|||
|
|
capacitor on the correct piece of wire.
|
|||
|
|
5. For the microphone use a magnetic earphone (1k to 2k).
|
|||
|
|
6. Where you see "[!]" is the antenna. Use about 8 feet of wire to broadcast
|
|||
|
|
approx 300ft. Part 15 of the FCC rules and regulation says you can't
|
|||
|
|
broadcast over 300 feet without a license. (Hahaha). Use more wire for an
|
|||
|
|
antenna for longer distances. (Attach it to the black wire on the fone
|
|||
|
|
line for about a 250 foot antenna!)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Operation of the Lunch Box
|
|||
|
|
==========================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This transmitter will send the signals over the AM radio band. You use the
|
|||
|
|
variable capacitor to adjust what freq. you want to use. Find a good unused
|
|||
|
|
freq. down at the lower end of the scale and you're set. Use the 2 meg pot. to
|
|||
|
|
adjust gain. Just fuck with it until you get what sounds good. The switch on
|
|||
|
|
the 2meg is for turning the Lunch Box on and off. When everything is adjusted,
|
|||
|
|
turn on an AM radio adjust it to where you think the signal is. Have a friend
|
|||
|
|
lay some shit thru the Box and tune in to it. That's all there is to it. The
|
|||
|
|
plans for a simple receiver are shown below:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Lunch Box receiver
|
|||
|
|
======================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(1) 9 volt battery with battery clip
|
|||
|
|
(1) 365 pf variable capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 51 pf capacitor
|
|||
|
|
(1) 1N38B diode
|
|||
|
|
(1) Transistor antenna coil
|
|||
|
|
(1) 2N366 transistor
|
|||
|
|
(1) SPST toggle switch
|
|||
|
|
(1) 1k to 2k magnetic earphone
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Schematic for receiver
|
|||
|
|
======================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[!]
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
51 pf
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
+----+----+
|
|||
|
|
! !
|
|||
|
|
) 365 pf
|
|||
|
|
(----+ !
|
|||
|
|
) ! !
|
|||
|
|
+---------+---GND
|
|||
|
|
!
|
|||
|
|
+---*>!----base collector-----
|
|||
|
|
diode 2N366 earphone
|
|||
|
|
emitter +-----
|
|||
|
|
! !
|
|||
|
|
GND !
|
|||
|
|
-
|
|||
|
|
+
|
|||
|
|
- battery
|
|||
|
|
+
|
|||
|
|
GND------>/<------------+
|
|||
|
|
switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Closing statement
|
|||
|
|
=================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This two devices can be built for under a total of $10.00. Not too bad. Using
|
|||
|
|
these devices in illegal ways is your option. If you get caught, I accept NO
|
|||
|
|
responsibility for your actions. This can be a lot of fun if used correctly.
|
|||
|
|
Hook it up to the red wire (I think) on the fone line and it will send the
|
|||
|
|
conversation over the air waves.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
HOW TO BUILD AND USE A MAGENTA BOX.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Designed and Written by Street Fighter.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First of all I named this the Magenta Box because all of the
|
|||
|
|
fags that made boxes, whose only purpose is adding a hold
|
|||
|
|
button to your phone, used all of the fucking colors. I can
|
|||
|
|
afford a fucking piece of shit Radio Shack 2-line phone with
|
|||
|
|
hold. A box's purpose is to mess with the Telco., not to add
|
|||
|
|
a fucking hold button to your phone. Anyway I will get on with
|
|||
|
|
this.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
PARTS LIST:
|
|||
|
|
SPDT Miniature PC RELAY (about 9v, 500 ohm)
|
|||
|
|
DPDT Miniature PC RELAY (about 6v, 500 ohms, 12 mA)
|
|||
|
|
2000 or so uF electrolytic capacitor
|
|||
|
|
1 meg resistor
|
|||
|
|
.01 uF capacitor
|
|||
|
|
<20> 2 555 timer chip
|
|||
|
|
2 diodes (1N914)
|
|||
|
|
10 K resistor
|
|||
|
|
1 K resistor
|
|||
|
|
9 volt battery -w- clip
|
|||
|
|
Pc Board
|
|||
|
|
4 alligator clips
|
|||
|
|
some kind of a box (small)
|
|||
|
|
some 20 or 22 gauge wire to work with.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you don't know how to put together a project by looking at a
|
|||
|
|
schematic, then isn't the project to start with. I would ask someone
|
|||
|
|
with some electronics knowledge to give you a helping hand. This
|
|||
|
|
has to be put together on a pc-board.
|
|||
|
|
Enough talk, now the schematic:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
+9v
|
|||
|
|
^
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
+---------------+----+----------------+
|
|||
|
|
| |8 |4 |
|
|||
|
|
| ------------ |
|
|||
|
|
/ | |3 | |--|
|
|||
|
|
\ | |-------------------->|---+------|\ |
|
|||
|
|
1 Meg / R1 | | | | C| \|
|
|||
|
|
(1000K)\ | | | - O|\ |
|
|||
|
|
| | 555 | \ ^ I| \|
|
|||
|
|
| | chip | 10 K / | L|\ |
|
|||
|
|
| 7| | \ +------| \|
|
|||
|
|
+------------| | / | |--|
|
|||
|
|
| 6| |2 | |
|
|||
|
|
+------------| |-------------+-------+ | NC
|
|||
|
|
| ------------ | | +-o o o--<
|
|||
|
|
| |1 |5 --------o NC | | | TIP #2
|
|||
|
|
| | | --___ | | | NC
|
|||
|
|
+ | | | ---o---+ | | | o o o--<
|
|||
|
|
--- | ---.01 uF | | | | | RING #2
|
|||
|
|
2000 uF -^- C1 | -^- --------o-- | --+ | | |
|
|||
|
|
*see note | | | | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | +-------|--|C | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | |\ |O +---+ | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | \|I | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | +---|--|L | | | |
|
|||
|
|
+-------------+---+-------------------+-----------+ | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | |
|
|||
|
|
----- | +-----------+-------------+ |
|
|||
|
|
--- | | |
|
|||
|
|
- +--/\/\/\----------+------------+
|
|||
|
|
GROUND 4.7K | |
|
|||
|
|
9V | |
|
|||
|
|
| +------------< RING #1
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
+---------------< TIP #1
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
K E Y
|
|||
|
|
~~~~~
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
NC - Normally Closed
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
--< - Alligator Clip
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
---
|
|||
|
|
-^- Capacitor
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
->|- Diode
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-
|
|||
|
|
^ Diode
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
o o o
|
|||
|
|
Contacts on relay. DPDT
|
|||
|
|
o o o
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
--------o
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
___---o Contacts on relay. SPDT
|
|||
|
|
--
|
|||
|
|
--------o
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-/\/\/\- Resistor
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
\ Resistor
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Whew! Well, the schematic explains almost everything. It would be
|
|||
|
|
helpful to you if you used one color for the line #1 clips and another
|
|||
|
|
for the line #2 clips. It will work even if you get the ring and tip
|
|||
|
|
mixed up, but you must get all of the clips on the right line. But,
|
|||
|
|
to be safe, you could put tags on each clip labeling it RING #1, TIP #2,
|
|||
|
|
ect.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Installation. Find one of those green posts that are about 3 feet high.
|
|||
|
|
They are everywhere. Get a socket wrench to open it up. There will
|
|||
|
|
be (a) row(s) of paired up posts. Each pair of posts represents a line.
|
|||
|
|
YOU *MUST* KNOW THE NUMBER OF LINE #1. Sometimes the number is tagged
|
|||
|
|
on to the pair of wires leading up to the posts, if so pick these posts
|
|||
|
|
as your line #1. Then you can pick any other set of posts for line #2.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now to the good part. Use of the the final product. When you call up
|
|||
|
|
line one from your house you will get a dial tone almost immediately.
|
|||
|
|
Using DTMF you can dial anywhere that the person who owns line 2 has
|
|||
|
|
service to. Which means you can direct dial alliance, Australia, and
|
|||
|
|
your favorite BBS for FREE.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Telco. will undoubtably discover the device after 2 days, so post
|
|||
|
|
the number on your favorite boards so you can abuse it while it is in
|
|||
|
|
service. With a 2000 uF capacitor and a 1 meg resistor you will
|
|||
|
|
get a 50 minute call before it disconnects you. By lowering the value
|
|||
|
|
of the resistor and capacitor you can change the time to your taste.
|
|||
|
|
So don't dial a wrong number, because you will have to wait 50 minutes
|
|||
|
|
until it resets again. The formula for the time is the following:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2*R1 C1 C1 is in microfarads
|
|||
|
|
---- * ---- R1 is in Kohms
|
|||
|
|
100 10 See schematic for location of R1 and C1.
|
|||
|
|
----------- = Minutes
|
|||
|
|
60
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The time produced by this formula is only approximate.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, that is one of the more complicated boxes to build. But it
|
|||
|
|
is very useful and will pay for itself with its first use. It
|
|||
|
|
would be wise to remove it before the Telco. finds it so you won't
|
|||
|
|
have to make another, or install it on a line that belongs to a
|
|||
|
|
family that is on vacation (GOOD IDEA)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, there it is. I hope it saves you a lot of cash.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_________________________
|
|||
|
|
/~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~\
|
|||
|
|
| How to Build Your Own |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| |\ /| _ __ |
|
|||
|
|
| | \/ | |_| | | | | |__ |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | |_| \/ |__ |
|
|||
|
|
| __ |
|
|||
|
|
| | \ _ |
|
|||
|
|
| |__/ / \ \_/ |
|
|||
|
|
| | \ \_/ / \ |
|
|||
|
|
| |__/ / |
|
|||
|
|
| _________/ |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
\_________________________/
|
|||
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
____________________________
|
|||
|
|
| Created by Captian Generic |
|
|||
|
|
| With Help from The Genetic |
|
|||
|
|
| Mishap. This File Created |
|
|||
|
|
| November 24th, 1986, 19:08 |
|
|||
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Please bear with me, as the construction of this box will seem rather
|
|||
|
|
silly. This box was found in a construction site. Or rather, it found
|
|||
|
|
us at a construction site. We were using a $5 Radio Shack phone out of
|
|||
|
|
a semi-completed office building. One afternoon during a holiday, and
|
|||
|
|
immediately following a storm, we found our bus in shambles. To our
|
|||
|
|
suprise, we also found that one of the phone connections we were tapping
|
|||
|
|
had been draped through a murky puddle. The fact that suprised us even
|
|||
|
|
more was that this line still worked and now posessed some great
|
|||
|
|
capibilities.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2 tupperware or similar 8oz contianers
|
|||
|
|
1 small bag earth (dirt) (12oz)
|
|||
|
|
1 pint water
|
|||
|
|
2 lantern batteries
|
|||
|
|
1 nine volt battery
|
|||
|
|
1 battery clip
|
|||
|
|
2 SPST switches
|
|||
|
|
4 ounces of iron shavings
|
|||
|
|
2 polar magnets
|
|||
|
|
5 feet wire
|
|||
|
|
1 set soldering equipment
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is the part you won't believe. Take the tupperware containers, and
|
|||
|
|
fill them with a mixture of the earth and the iron shavings. Make sure
|
|||
|
|
that the mixture is well done. (*NOTE* for best results, use the sand in
|
|||
|
|
fine ash trays.) Cut the cut the red and green wires and splice the
|
|||
|
|
switches into them. From the switches, solder wire to the magnets.
|
|||
|
|
Connect the red to the + (positive) side of one magnet, and the green to
|
|||
|
|
the - (negative) side of the second magnet. From the other poles of the
|
|||
|
|
magnet, solder wires the battery & clip. Make sure the + (positive) and
|
|||
|
|
- (negative) are correct. Set the nine-volt battery between the two
|
|||
|
|
tupperware containers and place the battery end of the two magnets into
|
|||
|
|
the tupperware. Now connect wire to the two poles of the lantern
|
|||
|
|
battery, and place them in the same containers as the poles of the
|
|||
|
|
magnets/9-volt battery. You are almost done. Finally, add just enough
|
|||
|
|
water to the two pots, and let them sit in the sun and bake like bricks.
|
|||
|
|
at this point, you have a MAUVE BOX.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Explaning and Using What You Have:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The red and green wires have been places into a magnetic field which is
|
|||
|
|
being charged continually be a lantern battery. (It is necessary to
|
|||
|
|
change this battery every one to one and a half months.) This will
|
|||
|
|
literaly pull in the nearest phone conversatiion. (Don't try this in a
|
|||
|
|
big apartment or dorm.) When the 9-volt battery is connected, this will
|
|||
|
|
now create enough current for the poles of the magnets to reverse
|
|||
|
|
themselves (perhaps you're seen Mr. Wizard do this. It's just like with
|
|||
|
|
the soap). At this point, you have a phone transmitting to one (if not
|
|||
|
|
more) of the nearest phones. (Again, if you're in a dorm, don't try
|
|||
|
|
this.) I suppose this just accomplishes what a tap would do, but with a
|
|||
|
|
MAUVE BOX, your fingerprints never will show on a terminal or on
|
|||
|
|
someones telephone lines.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Notes and Addendum:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This will only work with a touch-tone phone connected to a phone line.
|
|||
|
|
When the switches are pulled, it's off your line and into the air. This
|
|||
|
|
is named a MAUVE BOX, becuase this is the most disgusting box, and I find
|
|||
|
|
mauve to be the single most disgusting colour I know of. Also, this file
|
|||
|
|
is for information purposes only. This is not to be used in an illegal
|
|||
|
|
mannar. Perhaps one of these by the pool, sending to your sethe co-author, accept no
|
|||
|
|
responsibility for your actions with the MAUVE BOX. Thank you...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
--------------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
THE NEON BOX
|
|||
|
|
--------------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A neon box is a very simple adjustment to your fone, that will allow a very
|
|||
|
|
clear passage from your computer tones to your fone. It also works great for
|
|||
|
|
recording tones, sex fone, or anything else you want to record off of your
|
|||
|
|
fone.
|
|||
|
|
Tools:
|
|||
|
|
------
|
|||
|
|
This modification is very simple, and can be used on most fones, though it
|
|||
|
|
is more difficult on one-piece units. All you need is an old pair of
|
|||
|
|
headphones, or similiar,a phillips screwdriver, a soldering iron and some
|
|||
|
|
solder.
|
|||
|
|
Instructions
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
Open your fone with the screwdriver. When opened, look for the red and
|
|||
|
|
black wires that lead to the mouthpiece. (If you're not sure which
|
|||
|
|
wires lead to the mouthpiece, open up the mouthpiece and find the same
|
|||
|
|
color wires on the base. For one-piece units, just locate the louthpiece).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When you have found the mouthpiece, or wires. cut the ears of the head-
|
|||
|
|
fones off, and one wire (The one that leads to the right ear). Strip the
|
|||
|
|
left wire so about an eighth inch is showing. Keep the other side intact.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Then on the red wire. solder the wire that is seperatly sealed from the
|
|||
|
|
other one. On the black wire (these are the ends of the wire on the circuit
|
|||
|
|
board) solder the wire wrapped around the other wire. The solder a hole for the
|
|||
|
|
wire. You now have a neon box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
|
|||
|
|
(> <)
|
|||
|
|
(> Olive Box Plans <)
|
|||
|
|
(> <)
|
|||
|
|
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is a relatively new box, and all it basically does is serve as a phone
|
|||
|
|
ringer. You have two choices for ringers, a piezoelectric transducer (ringer),
|
|||
|
|
or a standard 8 ohm speaker. The speaker has a more pleasant tone to it, but
|
|||
|
|
either will do fine. This circuit can also be used in conjunction with a rust
|
|||
|
|
box to control an external something or other when the phone rings. Just connect
|
|||
|
|
the 8 ohm speaker output to the inputs on the rust box, and control the pot to
|
|||
|
|
tune it to light the light (which can be replaced by a relay for external
|
|||
|
|
controlling) when the phone rings.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
______________
|
|||
|
|
| | ^
|
|||
|
|
NC --|-- 5 4 --|-----/\/\/------->G
|
|||
|
|
| | / R2
|
|||
|
|
G<----)|----|-- 6 3 --|-- NC
|
|||
|
|
| C3 | U1 |
|
|||
|
|
-------|-- 7 2 --|---------- --- -- - > TO RINGER
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
----|-- 8 1 --|--
|
|||
|
|
| |______________| |
|
|||
|
|
| ---/\/\/----|(----- L1
|
|||
|
|
| R1 C1
|
|||
|
|
------------------------------------------ L2
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
a. Main ringer TTL circuit
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_
|
|||
|
|
FROM PIN 2 < - -- --- ----------| |_| |------------->G
|
|||
|
|
P1
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
b. Peizoelectric transducer
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(>::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::<)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
__ /|
|
|||
|
|
FROM PIN 2 < - -- --- ---------|(---------. .-------| |/ |
|
|||
|
|
>||< |S1| |
|
|||
|
|
>||< --| | |
|
|||
|
|
>||< | |__|\ |
|
|||
|
|
G<---------.>||<.--- \|
|
|||
|
|
T1
|
|||
|
|
c. Elctro magnetic transducer
|
|||
|
|
Parts List
|
|||
|
|
----------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
U1 - Texas Instruments TCM1506
|
|||
|
|
T1 - 4000:8 ohm audio transfomer
|
|||
|
|
S1 - 8 ohm speaker
|
|||
|
|
R1 - 2.2k resistor
|
|||
|
|
R2 - External variable resistor; adjusts timing frequency
|
|||
|
|
C1 - .47uF capacitor
|
|||
|
|
C2 - .1uF capacitor
|
|||
|
|
C3 - 10uF capacitor
|
|||
|
|
L1 - Tip
|
|||
|
|
L2 - Ring
|
|||
|
|
L1 and L2 are the phone line.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Shift Rate:
|
|||
|
|
-----------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is the formula for determining the shift rate:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1 1
|
|||
|
|
SR = --------------------- = ------------ = 6.25 Hz
|
|||
|
|
(DSR(1/f1)+DSR(1/f2)) 128 128
|
|||
|
|
---- + ----
|
|||
|
|
1714 1500
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
DSR = Shift Devider Rate ratio = 128
|
|||
|
|
f1 = High Output Frequency = 1714
|
|||
|
|
f2 = Low Output Frequency = 1500
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
|
|||
|
|
$$ $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ ***************** $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ * How to make a * $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ ***************** $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ <> Pearl Box <> $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ Written and created by: Dr. D-Code $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ (Sysops may use this information if it's not altered in any way at all) $$
|
|||
|
|
$$ $$
|
|||
|
|
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
|
|||
|
|
[
|
|||
|
|
The Pearl Box:Definition - This is a box that may substitute for many boxes
|
|||
|
|
which produce tones in herts. The Pearl Box when operated correctly can pro-
|
|||
|
|
duce tones from 1-9999hz. As you can see, 2600, 1633, 1336 and other crucial
|
|||
|
|
tones are obviously in its sound spectrum.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials you will need in order to build The Pearl Box:
|
|||
|
|
========================================================
|
|||
|
|
C1, C2::::::::.5mf or .5uf ceramic disk capacitors
|
|||
|
|
Q1::::::::::::NPN transistor (2N2222 works best)
|
|||
|
|
S1::::::::::::Normally open momentary SPST switch
|
|||
|
|
S2::::::::::::SPST toggle switch
|
|||
|
|
B1::::::::::::Standard 9-Volt battery
|
|||
|
|
R1::::::::::::Single turn, 50k potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
R2:::::::::::: " " 100k potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
[R3:::::::::::: " " 500k potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
R4:::::::::::: " " 1meg potentiometer
|
|||
|
|
SPKR::::::::::Standard 8-ohm speaker
|
|||
|
|
T1::::::::::::Mini transformer (8-ohm works best)
|
|||
|
|
Misc.:::::::::Wire, solder, soldering iron, PC board or perfboard, box to
|
|||
|
|
contain the completed unit, battery clip
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Instructions for building The Pearl Box:
|
|||
|
|
========================================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Since the instruction are EXTREMELY diffucult to explain in words, you will be
|
|||
|
|
given a schematic instead. It will be quite diffucult to follow but try it any
|
|||
|
|
way. There is also a Hi-Res picture you can get that shows the schematic in
|
|||
|
|
great detail.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[ (Schematic for The Pearl Box)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
+-------------+------------+---------+
|
|||
|
|
! ! \ +--S1----
|
|||
|
|
C1 C2 \ SPKR
|
|||
|
|
! ! + +--------
|
|||
|
|
+ + ----+T1 +
|
|||
|
|
!\ +---------------+------+
|
|||
|
|
! b c-------!
|
|||
|
|
! Q1 !
|
|||
|
|
! e-----S2---+ !
|
|||
|
|
! ! !
|
|||
|
|
! B1 !
|
|||
|
|
! ! !
|
|||
|
|
! +-------+
|
|||
|
|
[ !R1 R2 R3 R4!
|
|||
|
|
/\/\ /\/\ /\/\ /\/\
|
|||
|
|
+--+ +--+ +--+
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now that you are probably thourghly confused, let me explain a few minor de-
|
|||
|
|
tails. The potentiometer area is rigged so that the left pole is connected to
|
|||
|
|
the center pole of the potentiometer next to it. The middle terminal of T1 is
|
|||
|
|
connected to the peice of wire that runs down to the end of the battery.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Correct operation of The Pearl Box:
|
|||
|
|
===================================
|
|||
|
|
You may want to get some dry-transfer decals at Radio Shack to make this job
|
|||
|
|
alot easier. Also, some knobs for the tops of the potentiometers may be useful
|
|||
|
|
too. Use the decals to calibrate the knobs.
|
|||
|
|
R1 is the knob for the ones place, R2 is for the tens place, R3 if for the
|
|||
|
|
[hundreds place and R4 is for the thousands place. S1 is for producing the all
|
|||
|
|
the tones and S2 is for power.
|
|||
|
|
Step 1: Turn on the power and adjust the knobs for the desired tone.
|
|||
|
|
(Example: For 2600 hz- R1=0:R2=0:R3=6:R4=2)
|
|||
|
|
Step 2: Hit the pushbutton switch and VWALA! You have the tone. If you don't
|
|||
|
|
have a tone recheck all connections and schematic.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
**************************************************
|
|||
|
|
* +++++ ++ ++++ ++ +++++ ++++++ ++ ++ *
|
|||
|
|
* ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ *
|
|||
|
|
* +++++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++++++ ++ ++ +++ *
|
|||
|
|
* ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++ *
|
|||
|
|
* ++ ++ ++ ++++ ++++++ ++++++ ++ ++ *
|
|||
|
|
**************************************************
|
|||
|
|
By: Fugazi/(I)nte(G)rit(Y) 1992
|
|||
|
|
Internet: 71062.1560@COMPUSERVE.COM
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|||
|
|
I take no responsability for the way this document is used. This document is
|
|||
|
|
for informational purposes only. The FIRST AMMENDMENT of the CONSTITUTION of
|
|||
|
|
the UNITED STATES of AMERICA gives me the right to publish this text.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Supplies:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1 unfolded paperclip
|
|||
|
|
1 nail or something equal
|
|||
|
|
1 piece of 1 inch electrical tape
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Use:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is one of the most simplest but most handy tools of the trade. It has
|
|||
|
|
been passed down for years and now I wrote a text file one it because most that
|
|||
|
|
I have read about this are very scetchy and incomplete.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This "BOX", which really isn't anything electrical at all, will enable you to
|
|||
|
|
make a free local (not sure about Long Distance) phone call from MOST bell pay
|
|||
|
|
phones.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Instructions:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1) Unfold the paperclip so it is a straight wire, then wrap the middle of the
|
|||
|
|
unfolded paperclip with the tape. As shown in Fig. 1
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Fig. 1
|
|||
|
|
------======-------
|
|||
|
|
^Wire ^Tape
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2) To identify what phone to use look for the little holes next the the "25"
|
|||
|
|
by the coin slot, or below the keypad under the "0". As shown in Fig. 2
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Fig. 2
|
|||
|
|
=========== / = Coin Slot
|
|||
|
|
= / = o = Hole
|
|||
|
|
= o = || = Coin Return
|
|||
|
|
= 123 =
|
|||
|
|
= 456 =
|
|||
|
|
= 789 =
|
|||
|
|
= *0# =
|
|||
|
|
= o =
|
|||
|
|
===========
|
|||
|
|
= || =
|
|||
|
|
===========
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3) Now you must take the handset of the phone and puncture the metal guard
|
|||
|
|
inside the microphone with a nail or any other sharp pointed narrow object.
|
|||
|
|
Becareful not to puncture the objects below the metal plate/guard. The best
|
|||
|
|
place to do this is through the BOTTOM MOST hole on the microphone as shown
|
|||
|
|
in Fig. 3
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Fig. 3
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Microphone End
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
+++ X = Where to punch through
|
|||
|
|
++ooooo++
|
|||
|
|
++ooooooo++
|
|||
|
|
++ooooooo++
|
|||
|
|
++ooXoo++
|
|||
|
|
+++
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4) Now connect the handset to the phone as shown in Fig. 4 by using the
|
|||
|
|
paperclip. To do this you must insert the paperclip into the hole you
|
|||
|
|
created in the handset and then insert the other end of the paperclip into
|
|||
|
|
the hole on the phone. Make sure you hold onto the tape on the paperclip.
|
|||
|
|
You should see some small sparks when you connect them.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Fig. 4
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
======= +++
|
|||
|
|
======= +++
|
|||
|
|
======= +
|
|||
|
|
======= +++
|
|||
|
|
=======--+++
|
|||
|
|
=======
|
|||
|
|
=======
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5) Now dial the number while these are connected and hold the connection for
|
|||
|
|
about 5 seconds after dialing. Then pick the phone up and take out the
|
|||
|
|
paperclip and well free phone call!...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
|
|||
|
|
=/=> How To Build A Pink Box <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=> Written By Baba O'Riley <=\=
|
|||
|
|
=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The function of a Pink Box is to add a hold button that allows music or
|
|||
|
|
anything else to be played into the telephone while the person is on hold.
|
|||
|
|
This box can either be built right in the telephone or as a seperate box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Materials Needed <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
some Bell wire or phone wire
|
|||
|
|
a SPST momemtary switch RS # 275-1547
|
|||
|
|
one resistor, 470 ohms RS # 271-019
|
|||
|
|
one LED, 5 volts RS # 276-041
|
|||
|
|
one SCR, number 2N5061
|
|||
|
|
audio transformer (Ratio 10K:600)
|
|||
|
|
RCA phono jack RS # 274-346
|
|||
|
|
screwdrivers, soldering iron, solder, etc.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Construction <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. Open the wall box and locate the RED and GREEN wires.
|
|||
|
|
2. Take a piece of RED wire, strip the end, and attach it to the red lead on
|
|||
|
|
the wall box. Do the same for the GREEN.
|
|||
|
|
3. Connect the GREEN wire to the ANODE end of the LED.
|
|||
|
|
4. Connect the CATHODE end of the LED to the UPPER pin of the primary side of
|
|||
|
|
the transformer (See diagram below).
|
|||
|
|
_____
|
|||
|
|
To one phono pole ---! Top !--- To CATHODE of LED
|
|||
|
|
-!View !- Primary side
|
|||
|
|
To other phono pole ---!_____!--- To pole or trans. & one pole of switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5. Connect the pin directly across to one pole of the phono jack.
|
|||
|
|
6. Connect the RED wire to one side of resistor and to the C pole of the
|
|||
|
|
transistor.
|
|||
|
|
7. Connect the open pin of the switch the other side of the resistor and to
|
|||
|
|
the G pole of the transistor.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Wiring Diagram <=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
RCA Jack Transformer LED
|
|||
|
|
_____ C A
|
|||
|
|
Pole of Jack --/---! Top !---/--(*)--\------GREEN wire
|
|||
|
|
-!View !- Primary --I---RED wire
|
|||
|
|
Pole of Jack --/---!_____!---/-I (O)
|
|||
|
|
I I
|
|||
|
|
I [--I-----Pole of Switch
|
|||
|
|
I
|
|||
|
|
I--------------Pole of Switch
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=> Key To Symbols <=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
-- Wire
|
|||
|
|
I Connection or wire
|
|||
|
|
/ Connection or wire
|
|||
|
|
_/ C pole of transistor --(*)--
|
|||
|
|
[_)-- G pole of transistor I
|
|||
|
|
I A pole of transistor (O) Resis
|
|||
|
|
I
|
|||
|
|
_____
|
|||
|
|
---! Top !---
|
|||
|
|
-! View!- Primary Transformer
|
|||
|
|
---!_____!---
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=> Use Of The Pink Box <=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=/=\=
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Hook the RED and GREEN wires up to the appropriate terminals and hook the
|
|||
|
|
RCA jack to the output on your stereo. Turn on your stereo at a good volume.
|
|||
|
|
Now call a friend. To test the Box, hold down the switcn and hang up the
|
|||
|
|
phone. The LED should go on and your friend should hear music. If nothing
|
|||
|
|
happens, start over. The hold is shut off if you pick up a phone on that line
|
|||
|
|
or your end hangs up.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Brought to you by: The Crack Crew Written by: Baba O'Riley
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How to Construct a Purple Box.
|
|||
|
|
------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Purple Box is very simple to construct. It takes only six components
|
|||
|
|
and a PC board if you want. The Purple Box is a telephone hold button. It
|
|||
|
|
will allow you to switch phones very easily.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A red LED indicates when a party is on hold and is automatically
|
|||
|
|
extinguished when either party releases the line.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To install your Purple Box, remove the telephone case and locate the red
|
|||
|
|
and green wires. From the green wire, make a connection to L1 and from the
|
|||
|
|
red
|
|||
|
|
wire a connection to L2.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To test the circuit, call a friend and then while pressing the push
|
|||
|
|
button, hang up the phone. As soon as the phone is on the hook, you may let
|
|||
|
|
go
|
|||
|
|
of the push button.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
D1 = Light Emitting Diode (LED)
|
|||
|
|
D2 = 1N4003 Diode
|
|||
|
|
R1 = 820 ohm 1/2 Watt
|
|||
|
|
R2 = 1K ohm 1/2 Watt
|
|||
|
|
S1 = N.O. Push Button S1
|
|||
|
|
SCR1 = C106B1 __|__
|
|||
|
|
+--o o---+----R1----+
|
|||
|
|
| g| |
|
|||
|
|
+--------LED--R2---+-------a--+--c--D2---+
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
|L1 SCR----/ |L2
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
To Green To Red
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The SCR is a three prong IC. The a,g, and c tell you what pins to use. The
|
|||
|
|
"g" pin is the one on the left if you look at the numbers.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Have Phun,
|
|||
|
|
The Flash
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
***********************************************************
|
|||
|
|
*
|
|||
|
|
MEMBER NAME: RAZZBOX *
|
|||
|
|
*
|
|||
|
|
***********************************************************
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_________________________________________________________________________
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| A Crime Ring G-File Production |
|
|||
|
|
| __ __ |
|
|||
|
|
| |__| The Razz Box |__| |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| Written by The Razz |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| -:+ Released by The Magnet +:- |
|
|||
|
|
|_________________________________________________________________________|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Introduction:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
So you want to be James Bond eh? So you want to be a private eye eh.
|
|||
|
|
Well here's your chance to pick up some very important clues or ideas using
|
|||
|
|
your neighbors telephone line. Forget about climbing a telephone pole this
|
|||
|
|
sort of boxing can be done on the ground.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Purpose:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To tap your neighbors line without your neighbor knowing it. You can
|
|||
|
|
also make FREE (let me repeat that) FREE!! Phone calls to your favorite
|
|||
|
|
K-RAD-GNEW-WAREZ boards.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. Line Man's headset (no you can't buy one that's why we're making one you
|
|||
|
|
IDIOT)
|
|||
|
|
2. Alligator clips (clips is Plural so you need Two)
|
|||
|
|
3. A phone (preferbly one of those one peice kind that like the ones with the
|
|||
|
|
numbers and the thing the hangs up on the ONE phone piece)
|
|||
|
|
4. A Telephone wall jack box or whatever they're called
|
|||
|
|
5. Some green and some red wire
|
|||
|
|
6. Some intelligence (very Much needed)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Plans:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First hook up your one piece phone to the wall jack box. Then take
|
|||
|
|
the alligator clips and attach red wire to one and green wire to the other
|
|||
|
|
one. You should have 2 alligator clips with wire attached. Now strip the
|
|||
|
|
wire and open the Wall jack box you have and attach the red wire with the
|
|||
|
|
red screw on the box and the green wire with the green screw on the box.
|
|||
|
|
Your stuff should look like this.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_______
|
|||
|
|
| ... | <--one peice phone
|
|||
|
|
| ... | __________________
|
|||
|
|
| | | | <--oversize box to show
|
|||
|
|
| 123 | | (*)r--- (*)b | the detail
|
|||
|
|
| 456 | _| | |
|
|||
|
|
| 789 | ()()()|_ | |
|
|||
|
|
| *0# | () | ---- | |
|
|||
|
|
| ... | () | (*)g| | (*)y |
|
|||
|
|
|_______| () |_______|_|________|
|
|||
|
|
() () | |
|
|||
|
|
() () green wire--> | | <--Red Wire
|
|||
|
|
()() | |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
\/\/\/ /\/\/\
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Hints:
|
|||
|
|
\/\/\/- Green wire Alligator clip
|
|||
|
|
/\/\/\- Red Wire Alligator Clip
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Using Your newly made device:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now that you have made or created your little Razz Box then you are
|
|||
|
|
ready to go outside and do your stuff. First go to a neighbor's house and
|
|||
|
|
find the black telephone wires. They should look like Example #1. Then cut
|
|||
|
|
off a bit of the plastic covering so the alligator clips go in easier and
|
|||
|
|
you now stick the alligator clips one on the right and one on the left side
|
|||
|
|
of the plastic wire as shown on the diagram. The Black plastic wire should
|
|||
|
|
look like the diagram. You should get a dialtone. If you do not then switch
|
|||
|
|
the alligator clips around till you do. Remember your neighbors can hear you
|
|||
|
|
as well so get one of the phones with the MUTE option so you can plug into
|
|||
|
|
theres quietly.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
| || |
|
|||
|
|
| || |
|
|||
|
|
| || | <<<----black wire
|
|||
|
|
| || |
|
|||
|
|
\/\/\/||/\/\/\ <<<---alligator clips.
|
|||
|
|
| || |
|
|||
|
|
| || |
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Disclaimer:
|
|||
|
|
I as writer of this file take no responsibility at all (And I repeat
|
|||
|
|
NO RESPONSIBILITY) of this file. This File is ONLY for informational purposes
|
|||
|
|
ONLY.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you have any question, suggestion, or correction, you can contact The Razz
|
|||
|
|
or me, The Magnet, at any of the boards listed at the end of this file.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Copyright [12] Nov, 1988
|
|||
|
|
-:+ The Magnet +:-
|
|||
|
|
Crime Ring International
|
|||
|
|
The Razz
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Red Box Intro File
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Red Box is an electronic device that mimics the pulsed beeps produced in
|
|||
|
|
payphones (fortress phones) when one drops coins in to make a phone call. The
|
|||
|
|
objective is to make free phone calls. The red box may be an electronic
|
|||
|
|
oscillator that produces the right tones, or a high grade taperecorder in which
|
|||
|
|
previously recorded tones are played back. For recording, the tape recorder
|
|||
|
|
connected directly to the phone line to record the coin sounds-not accoustically
|
|||
|
|
coupled. A phriend calls from a payphone. When the phreaker answers, the phriend
|
|||
|
|
deposits coins into the payphone while the phreaker recordes the beeps. The
|
|||
|
|
phriend can't hear the beeps because the earpiece is muted during coin deposits.
|
|||
|
|
Later, the phreaker plays back these sounds to stimulate his own coin deposits.
|
|||
|
|
Note, that Red Boxes only work on single-coin-slot payphones-not the old ones
|
|||
|
|
that have three round coin slots at top.
|
|||
|
|
The tone's intervals are not generated by the coins pushing levers on the
|
|||
|
|
payphone mechanism as most people believe, but by a small relay which reverses
|
|||
|
|
the direction of the wheel that the levers cock.In other words, when a coin is
|
|||
|
|
dropped by the operator, it pushes a plastic vane lever which cocks a wheel.
|
|||
|
|
The coin than drop into a drop chute, and the signal goes thru a 70msec delay
|
|||
|
|
to allow the coin to clear the mechanism. Then, a unijuncyion transistor (UJT)
|
|||
|
|
circuit pulls in a relay solenoid, which unwinds the wheel until it returns to
|
|||
|
|
the start position. The number of times the relay ticks, while pulling the
|
|||
|
|
wheel, is the number of beeps. If the wheel went five notches forward, a switch
|
|||
|
|
drops, programming the unit to do 35msec beeps (quarter). However, regardless
|
|||
|
|
of the coin used, the first beep will be delayed 70msec to permit the coin to
|
|||
|
|
clear the mechanism. See the figures for the precise waveforms. These beeps are
|
|||
|
|
critical. If not precisely produced, fraud will most likely be suspected! If a
|
|||
|
|
taperecorder is used, it must be a high quality one that runs 7.5 IPS.
|
|||
|
|
When you drop in more than one coin, the beep combinations are appended to each
|
|||
|
|
other, as far as waveforms go, but the total number beeps indicate to the
|
|||
|
|
operator the total number of nickel-units deposited.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A Shadows of IGA Production...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) ___ __ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) Introducing: | |_| |_ _ _______ _____ ____ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) | | | |__ | \ / \ / \ | _/ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) _ _|_____/ | | | |_/ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({}) | \ | | | | \_ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) | \ \_____/ \____/ | \ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) _ _______ _____ _ _ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) | \ / \ \ / ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) _ _|_____/ | | \/ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) | \ | | /\ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) _ _|_____/ \_____/ _/ \_ ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) Created & Designed By Video Vindicator ({})
|
|||
|
|
({}) ({})
|
|||
|
|
({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})({})
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
INTRODUCTION
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
And now for all you basement engineers... Here's the ROCK BOX! Basicly what
|
|||
|
|
the Rock Box does is channel the music from the stereo out to the phone line
|
|||
|
|
via the headphone output. There are two models to this Box, the Basic Box
|
|||
|
|
and Advanced Box. I would recommend the Advanced Box for better sound
|
|||
|
|
quality, although the Basic one get's the job done. Well... Enough for the
|
|||
|
|
formalities, now for the Advanced Box!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Identification Materials Specification
|
|||
|
|
-------------- --------- -------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A 1 Resistor (Brown-Black-Red-Silver)
|
|||
|
|
B 1 Resistor (Orange-Orange-Orange-Gold)
|
|||
|
|
C 1 Resistor (Gold-Red-Red-Grey)
|
|||
|
|
D 1 Resistor (L.Green-D.Green-Brown-Gold)
|
|||
|
|
E 1 Resistor (Brown-Red-Red-Gold)
|
|||
|
|
F 3 Condensators (1070 (50v))
|
|||
|
|
G 4 Condensators (1002 (40v))
|
|||
|
|
H 1 Condensator (1060 (16v))
|
|||
|
|
<*> (Also S) 2 Switches (2-Channel)
|
|||
|
|
^#^ (Also K) 1 Transformer (LUN5250B)
|
|||
|
|
~o~ 1 LED Light (Optional)
|
|||
|
|
J Junction
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Wiring Diagram -Advanced
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Switch for Volume Hi/Lo Switch for Power On/Off
|
|||
|
|
_______________________________________________________________
|
|||
|
|
| +---------+ |
|
|||
|
|
| +-----------+ C-B-A +-------+ J J +--------+ |
|
|||
|
|
| | S-S-S-O | | +-S-S | S--------+ +---------> > | IN
|
|||
|
|
| | | | | +-S+ O +-------------> >-+ |<LINE
|
|||
|
|
| +O S S-S+ | | O | S-S +----------------------+ | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | | C | | +------G-G J+ J--------O | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | | O-+ | | +C | O---------+ | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| | +-+ | O B | | G +----------G-G G+ | | ++ | |
|
|||
|
|
| | ++ | | F | FG O-G+ | | | | |
|
|||
|
|
| < O | | O+ +-------+ O +-----+ | | | O+ | | OUT
|
|||
|
|
| | D+ E--O | O------+ K +O O | > >+ | |<LINE
|
|||
|
|
| +--+ | +----------O +----+ | | |
|
|||
|
|
IN | | | F F--H----------~o~ +--> >-+ |
|
|||
|
|
FROM |<| +----+ F H |
|
|||
|
|
STEREO>| | < | F-----------O-----KKK KKK |
|
|||
|
|
| +------D--E-+ ^#^ K ^#^ |
|
|||
|
|
|_______________________________________________________________|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Wiring Diagram -Basic
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
___________________________________
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| <------+ F--KKK--H +---> |
|
|||
|
|
| | | ^#^ | +----> | OUT
|
|||
|
|
IN | <------*----+ +------* |<LINE
|
|||
|
|
FROM | | +----> |
|
|||
|
|
STEREO>| <------+ +---> |
|
|||
|
|
|___________________________________|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now some of the Benifits of this wonderful little device is that you can
|
|||
|
|
record conversations, at whatever volume you want, without those bothersome
|
|||
|
|
beeps the answering machines make. Or another fun thing is call up a Rodent
|
|||
|
|
Bridge and blast this thing with your stereo at full... Wala! The bridge
|
|||
|
|
will most likely be clear, even they won't sit through that shit. It is a
|
|||
|
|
good idea to hit Radio Shack for a project box and soderless curcuit board,
|
|||
|
|
because this can be messy and a project box can easily make you look like a
|
|||
|
|
pro. One more use for it is if your computer can generate tones to match a
|
|||
|
|
Box of some sort, this makes a GREAT amplifier for it, with almost no loss in
|
|||
|
|
clearity. If you have any problems with a humm or it intercepting radio
|
|||
|
|
transmittions, then call up good-old Bell and get a line static clearer dealy
|
|||
|
|
and splice that into the box via the outgoing line, which SHOULD clear it up.
|
|||
|
|
If that does not seem to help, try putting a 9v battery (you know, the square
|
|||
|
|
ones) on the red and green phone lines, because this will make up for the
|
|||
|
|
power the box drains from the line. Hope you enjoy the plans and Be watching
|
|||
|
|
for more from me! L8r...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Video Vindicator
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5/09/91
|
|||
|
|
-----------------------=======< Sanctuary >=======-------------------------
|
|||
|
|
Productions
|
|||
|
|
Presents.....
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(Reprinted, (c) 1990, 2600 Enterprises, Inc. Volume Seven, Number Three
|
|||
|
|
Autumn, 1990.)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Typed by Havok Halcyon...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Converting a Tone Dialer into a Red Box
|
|||
|
|
=======================================
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
by Noah Clayton
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A very simple modification to Radio Shack pocket tone dialer part #43-
|
|||
|
|
141 ($24.95) can make it into a red box. The modification consists of
|
|||
|
|
changing the crystal frequency used to generate the microprocessor's
|
|||
|
|
timing. To make this modification you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a
|
|||
|
|
flat bladed screwdriver, a soldering iron, a pair of long nose pliers, a
|
|||
|
|
pair of wire cutters and a 6.5536 MHz (megahertz) crystal.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Orient the dialer with the keypad down and the speaker at the top.
|
|||
|
|
Remove the battery compartment cover (and any batteries) to expose two
|
|||
|
|
screws. Remove these two screws and the two on the top of the dialer near
|
|||
|
|
the speaker. There are four plastic clips that are now holding the two
|
|||
|
|
halves of the dialer together. Push on the two bottom clips near th
|
|||
|
|
ebattery compartment and pull up to seperate the bottom part. Now slide a
|
|||
|
|
flat screwdriver into the seam on the left starting from the bottom and
|
|||
|
|
moving towards the top. (You may have to do this on th eright side as
|
|||
|
|
well.)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
When the two halves separate, slide the speaker half underneath the
|
|||
|
|
other half while being careful not to break th tewires connecting thte two.
|
|||
|
|
Locate the cylindrical metallic can (it's about half an inch long and an
|
|||
|
|
eighth of an inch in diameter) and pull it away from the circuit board to
|
|||
|
|
break the glue that holds it in place. Unsolder this can, which is a
|
|||
|
|
3.579545 MHz crystal, from the circuit board.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The hard part of this modification is getting the new crystal to fit
|
|||
|
|
properly. Bend the three disk capacitors over,[And out of the way the best
|
|||
|
|
you can, making room for the new crystal. You may need to remove the screw
|
|||
|
|
in the way as well.] Since the 6.5536 MHz crystal is probably much bigger
|
|||
|
|
than the crystal you are replacing, you will need to bend the leads on the
|
|||
|
|
new crystal so that they will match up will the pads on the circuit board.
|
|||
|
|
Place the new crystal on the circuit board by soldering it in place. As an
|
|||
|
|
added touch you might peel he QC sticker off of the PC board and place it
|
|||
|
|
on top of the crystal. Now carefully snap the two halves back together
|
|||
|
|
while checking to make sure that none of the wires are getting pinched or
|
|||
|
|
are in the way of the screw holes. Put the case screws back ion and insert
|
|||
|
|
three AAA batteries into the battery compartment.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You dialer is now ready to test. Switch the unit on. The LED on th
|
|||
|
|
edial pad side should be lit. Set the lower slide switch to STORE mode.
|
|||
|
|
Press the MEMORY button on the dial pad. Press the * key five times.
|
|||
|
|
Press the MEMORY key again and then press the P1 key. A beep tone when any
|
|||
|
|
key is pressed and a long beep should sound after the P1 key has been
|
|||
|
|
pressed to indicate that the programming sequence was performed correctly.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Switch th eunit into DIAL mode. press the P1 key, and five tone
|
|||
|
|
pulses that sound remarkably like coin tones should come out of the
|
|||
|
|
speaker. I usually program P1 to be four quarters (insert one or two
|
|||
|
|
PAUSE's between each set of five tones), P2 to be two quarters, and P3 as
|
|||
|
|
one quarter.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Of course, you can no longer use the unit to generate touch tones.....
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
REFERENCE
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The crystal is available from Fry's Electronics in Freemont, CA for
|
|||
|
|
$0.89 plus the charge for UPS Red or Blue. Their number is 415-770-3763.
|
|||
|
|
I would suggest buying five, some for future use and some just in case you
|
|||
|
|
cut the leads too short when trying this project.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/]
|
|||
|
|
[ ]
|
|||
|
|
[ Scarlet box plans ]
|
|||
|
|
[ ----------------- ]
|
|||
|
|
[ A High Mtn Hackerz Presentation ]
|
|||
|
|
[ ]
|
|||
|
|
[ Written & Created by: THE PIMP ]
|
|||
|
|
[ ]
|
|||
|
|
[/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/]
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The purpose of a Scarlet box is to create a very bad conection, it can be
|
|||
|
|
used to crash a BBS or just make life miserable for those you seek to avenge.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Materials: 2 aligator clips, 3 inch wire, or a resister
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(plain wire will create greatest amount of static)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(Resister will decrease the amount of static in porportion to the resister you
|
|||
|
|
are useing)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (1): Find the phone box at your victims house, and pop the cover off.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (2): Find the two prongs that the phone line you wish to box are connected
|
|||
|
|
too.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (3): Hook your aligator clips to your (wire/resister).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (4): Find the lower middle prong and take off all wires connected to it, i
|
|||
|
|
think this disables the gound and call waiting and shit like that.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (5): Now take one of the aligator clips and attach it to the upper most
|
|||
|
|
prong, and take the other and attach it to the lower middle prong.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Step (6): Now put the cover back on the box and take off!!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
** ######## **
|
|||
|
|
** # #### # **
|
|||
|
|
######## /
|
|||
|
|
# #### # /
|
|||
|
|
######## /
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
/
|
|||
|
|
**/
|
|||
|
|
**
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
** **
|
|||
|
|
** **
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(**)= prongs
|
|||
|
|
**
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(/) = (wire/resister)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(##)= some phone bullshit
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Created by (The Pimp)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
S C R I B B L E V I S I O N
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
11-MAY-90
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you open the back of a TV, there's the neck of the picture tube sticking
|
|||
|
|
out the back. It has a 'yoke' around it that is made of two large
|
|||
|
|
saddle-shaped coils, usually of lacquered copper wire. Sometimes the coils are
|
|||
|
|
wrapped in tape or plastic or an insulation of some kind, but they're usually
|
|||
|
|
just copper.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_____
|
|||
|
|
| \ Yoke (wraps around tube neck)
|
|||
|
|
| \ =====
|
|||
|
|
| \-----------\-|
|
|||
|
|
| Picture Tube |-| (plug on END of tube neck remains connected)
|
|||
|
|
| /-----------/-|
|
|||
|
|
| / =====\
|
|||
|
|
|_____/ Yoke \ Wires from YOKE to CHASSIS
|
|||
|
|
\ (cut these and connect YOKE to STEREO)
|
|||
|
|
\
|
|||
|
|
\ (leave the CHASSIS end of the wires UNCONNECTED)
|
|||
|
|
-------------------------
|
|||
|
|
| TV Chassis |
|
|||
|
|
-------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
OK. Sometimes there is a bundle of wires or a multi-wire cable that goes from
|
|||
|
|
the yoke coil to the chassis. (the yoke coil defects the light spot back and
|
|||
|
|
forth so that it scans out the TV picture. Check an encyclopedia or TV repair
|
|||
|
|
book at a library for illustrations or block diagrams etc. if this isn't
|
|||
|
|
clear) anyway, the yoke coil will be connected to the main chassis/circuitry
|
|||
|
|
of the TV set by several wires, sometimes there's a cable connector or
|
|||
|
|
multi-pin plug/socket arrangement on the end. What you have to do is
|
|||
|
|
disconnect ALL wires that lead from the chassis to the yoke coils (do this
|
|||
|
|
with the TV _OFF_ : HIGH VOLTAGE!!!). If the yoke wires have a connector,
|
|||
|
|
just unplug it from the chassis. If the yoke wires are soldered on to the
|
|||
|
|
chassis you will have to cut them. There will also be wires running from a
|
|||
|
|
plug/socket on the very end of the neck of the picture tube. Leave these
|
|||
|
|
connected - they are needed to warm up the picture tube so you get an image
|
|||
|
|
on the screen.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now, turn the tv on and carefully touch a pair of speaker wires connected to
|
|||
|
|
a playing stereo, (or just run a 9 volt battery over to the yoke wires) try
|
|||
|
|
out various pairs of wires until you see the spot of light that will be in
|
|||
|
|
the center of the TV picture (you have disabled scanning and should only see
|
|||
|
|
one dot on the face of the picture tube) uh, try connecting voltage or
|
|||
|
|
speaker audio into pairs of yoke wires until you have determined which two
|
|||
|
|
pair of wires move the dot vertically and which pair move it horizontally.
|
|||
|
|
You can use a mirror to watch the TV while fiddling about in back with the
|
|||
|
|
yoke wires. Once you have determined the vertical and horizontal pairs, just
|
|||
|
|
run a set of speaker wires from your stereo over to the yoke pairs and turn
|
|||
|
|
up the volume, and adjust the left-right balance until the music or radio you
|
|||
|
|
are listening to makes the screen scribble around and pulsate to the music.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you have an oscilloscope, it's even easier - just put the oscilloscope in
|
|||
|
|
X/Y mode and feed one channel of a walkman into the horizontal probe and the
|
|||
|
|
other channel (left/right channels here) into the vertical sweep probe. The
|
|||
|
|
oscilloscope will display a scribble of the music coming from the walkman.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Old black and white TVs work better than color TVs for making scribble
|
|||
|
|
visions. The only requirement is that light appears on the screen when you
|
|||
|
|
turn on the TV set (that is, you can see the scanning pattern). You may have
|
|||
|
|
to adjust contrast and brightness to get the best scribble trace on the
|
|||
|
|
screen.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you are using a 'good' TV you might want to install DPDT switches to switch
|
|||
|
|
back and forth between scribble and normal TV modes. Make sure the DPDT
|
|||
|
|
switches isolate the chassis scanning signals from your stereo completely or
|
|||
|
|
you can blow things out.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This is a diagram of the contacts on the bottom of a DPDT switch.
|
|||
|
|
Make two of these, one for the Left/Horizontal Yoke-to-Stereo
|
|||
|
|
connections and one for the Right/Vertical Yoke-to-Stereo connections.
|
|||
|
|
You only need to do this if you want to switch back and forth
|
|||
|
|
between TV and Scribblevision modes. Make SURE the Chassis wires
|
|||
|
|
will get connected to their original corresponding Yoke wires when
|
|||
|
|
the switch is flipped.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|wire to Yoke Coil
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
------o o o-----
|
|||
|
|
wires from chassis wires from stereo
|
|||
|
|
------o o o-----
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|wire to Yoke Coil
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You can also reverse the leads from the chassis to the yoke to make the TV
|
|||
|
|
display a mirror image or upside-down picture. Mirror reversal is convenient
|
|||
|
|
if you don't want to be forced to read adversizement graphics when they
|
|||
|
|
appear on the screen.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Oh, if you watch a mono audio source in scribble-vision mode, you will just
|
|||
|
|
see a diagonal line instead of a full scribble pattern. You might have to
|
|||
|
|
adjust the tone controls on the stereo in a wierd way because bass sounds
|
|||
|
|
make larger patterns than treble sounds, but treble sounds produce more
|
|||
|
|
complex textures. Experiment around.
|
|||
|
|
Outlaw
|
|||
|
|
Telecommandos
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
HOW TO BUILD A SILVER BOX
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
MATERIALS : Soldering iron and solder
|
|||
|
|
22 ga. wire
|
|||
|
|
SPDT switch
|
|||
|
|
screwdriver
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
PROCEDURE
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1) Unscrew your phone (must be a touch tone, desk type)
|
|||
|
|
2) Remove the mounted pad and take the clear plastic cover from the bottom.
|
|||
|
|
3) Hold the pad with the numbers 0, *, # facing you, and turn it upside down,
|
|||
|
|
so you can see the yellow pc board.
|
|||
|
|
4) You should see 2 black round doughnuts.
|
|||
|
|
5) Position the board so the solder points for the left doughnut face you.
|
|||
|
|
6) Count over four points from the left, and attach a (green) wire to that
|
|||
|
|
point.
|
|||
|
|
7) Between you and the doughnuts, there should be 2 long yellow capacitors.
|
|||
|
|
To the right of these, and on the edge of the board there should be 3 gold
|
|||
|
|
contacts. We will use the one on the left.
|
|||
|
|
8) The contact originally is spot welded, so snip it open.
|
|||
|
|
9) To the one nearest you, attach a (red) wire; to the other one, a (yellow)
|
|||
|
|
wire.
|
|||
|
|
10) Run the wires out of the phone, and solder the switch.
|
|||
|
|
11) The orientation should be (red) to center. The switch will now alternate
|
|||
|
|
between normal and 1633hz fourth column tones.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
_____________________________________
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
|
|||
|
|
| : /\/ew \/\/ave /-/acking : |
|
|||
|
|
| : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| by: Dispater |
|
|||
|
|
_____________________________________
|
|||
|
|
/\/\/\/-/ /\/\/\/-/
|
|||
|
|
8/20/90 | | 8/20/90
|
|||
|
|
| The Slush Box |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
|_____________________________________|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The slush box is currently under development by Master Zerez and
|
|||
|
|
myself. When plans are complete, the Slush Box can be installed
|
|||
|
|
at places of business that have the standard multi-line phones.
|
|||
|
|
The box will be used on business phone systems like the "Com-Key"
|
|||
|
|
or similar phones. Installation will be fairly simple, and take
|
|||
|
|
just a couple of minutes to install. Here's how:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|||
|
|
W |
|
|||
|
|
a |
|
|||
|
|
l | Big, fat 25-pair cable Connector from wall
|
|||
|
|
l | \ ______________ /
|
|||
|
|
|-------------------------/ \ /
|
|||
|
|
|------------------------/ \
|
|||
|
|
| |----------------|
|
|||
|
|
| | Slush Box |
|
|||
|
|
| |----------------| To any extension phone
|
|||
|
|
| \ /-------------------------
|
|||
|
|
| \______________/--------------------------
|
|||
|
|
| /
|
|||
|
|
| /
|
|||
|
|
Connector on end of extension phone
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
These connectors are easy to find because nearly every desk in
|
|||
|
|
the business has a phone, right? And behind every desk you'll
|
|||
|
|
find one of these connectors. Just separate the connectors.
|
|||
|
|
(You will need a small flat-blade screwdriver to loosen a screw on
|
|||
|
|
each end) Then insert the Slush Box and make sure everything is
|
|||
|
|
securely plugged in.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
- THE SLUSH BOX IN THEORY -
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
It works basically like it was YOUR OWN extension of the business'
|
|||
|
|
phone. The Box is powered from the phone's existing power. You
|
|||
|
|
call the business' number (way after hours, of course!). After 25
|
|||
|
|
rings, the Slush Box answers on Line 1. Nothing further happens
|
|||
|
|
until you enter a password into the Box. (Something simple, like
|
|||
|
|
"#" "5" ) The Slush Box then connects you to Line 2. Voila! You
|
|||
|
|
have a nice dial tone. (On some systems you'll have to dial a "9"
|
|||
|
|
to get the dial tone.) Well, after your first call from their
|
|||
|
|
Line 2 you'll want to hang up Line 2 and make another call.
|
|||
|
|
Simple. Just enter your password and you'll get dial tone again.
|
|||
|
|
(Example: "#" "5" again) The Slush Box turns completely off if
|
|||
|
|
you hang up from your end.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THIS FILE WILL BE UPDATED AS WE RECEIVE THE INFO WE NEED
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
So far, we know the electronics in the box will be kept to a
|
|||
|
|
minimum. Circuits we need to work on:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. A circuit that can count rings (or count "flashes"
|
|||
|
|
from a pin on the connector) then seize the line.
|
|||
|
|
2. A tone decoder circuit (preferably using Radio Shack's
|
|||
|
|
Decoder Chip) that can hold a couple of password digits.
|
|||
|
|
3. Input from other phreakers to help keep this project going.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
ADVANTAGES OF THIS KIND OF CIRCUIT
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. It is easily installed in ANY multiline phone system.
|
|||
|
|
2. It works for ONLY you because it has a password.
|
|||
|
|
3. The more of these you install, the less you will use each
|
|||
|
|
one, and the less chance of it being discovered.
|
|||
|
|
4. The phone company considers their responsibilities for checking
|
|||
|
|
out lines to end at the phone box outside. It is unlikely that
|
|||
|
|
a phone company employee would enter the premises and check for
|
|||
|
|
the existence of such a circuit.
|
|||
|
|
5. The Slush Box is small and installed in an inconspicuous manner.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
6. If they even NOTICE the extra calls, they'll assume they're from:
|
|||
|
|
(a) a billing error.
|
|||
|
|
(b) a dishonest employee coming in after-hours to make calls.
|
|||
|
|
(c) someone tapping into the phone line from OUTSIDE the
|
|||
|
|
premises.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you can help us get this finished contact Dispater. Thanks!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
How to Build Your Own Underground
|
|||
|
|
Television Transmitter
|
|||
|
|
Using Commercially
|
|||
|
|
Available
|
|||
|
|
Parts
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Yes, for some time now it has been possible to construct a clandestine
|
|||
|
|
television station, which you can operate from your Telecommando Lair, or modify
|
|||
|
|
for Mobile Media Guerrilla campaigns.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
We have named this device the Snow Box, due to its cool nature, and the snow
|
|||
|
|
seen on blank television channels waiting to be commandeered.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
To put together a TV station you will need this stuff:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A VCR or Camcorder with video or RF outputs
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A Ham Radio 6-meter Band Linear amplifier
|
|||
|
|
(This boosts the RF signal from the VCR for broadcasting)
|
|||
|
|
(The Linear Amp should have a bandwidth of 6 MHz for best results)
|
|||
|
|
A cable television RF distribution amplifier may also be used.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Coaxial cable with UHF connectors
|
|||
|
|
(Connects the Linear Amp to the Antenna)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A cable-TV patch cable with an F-connector and a UHF connector
|
|||
|
|
(To connect the RF signal to the Linear Amp)
|
|||
|
|
(F-connectors are the small ones used with cable TV)
|
|||
|
|
(UHF connectors are the large ones used for Ham Radio)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If your VCR does not have RF outputs:
|
|||
|
|
An external RF modulator (converts video to channel 3,6,12 etc.)
|
|||
|
|
a cable with RCA connectors (a standard stereo cord is ok)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A 6-meter Ham radio antenna.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
If you do not have a pre-made 6-meter antenna:
|
|||
|
|
About 20 feet of strong wire
|
|||
|
|
3 ceramic antenna insulators
|
|||
|
|
another UHF connector
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Likely places to get the linear amplifier, connectors and cables is a
|
|||
|
|
Ham Radio swapmeet, a Ham club newsletter's classified ads, a Buy-Sell-Trade
|
|||
|
|
paper like The Recycler, or at a store specializing in Ham gear.
|
|||
|
|
RF modulators are available at specialty video stores, or major VCR dealers.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Setting Up the Transmitter:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Using a VCR with RF out:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[VCR/RF]F----------------------------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna]
|
|||
|
|
weak RF Power RF
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Using an External RF Modulator:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
[VCR]R-------R[RF Modulator]---------U[Linear Amp]U------------U[Antenna]
|
|||
|
|
video weak RF Power RF
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Diagram Symbols:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
U UHF-connectors (Ham radio)
|
|||
|
|
F F-connectors (cable TV)
|
|||
|
|
R RCA connectors (stereos)
|
|||
|
|
--- coax, cables, wires
|
|||
|
|
[] devices (name of device in brackets)
|
|||
|
|
<I> ceramic insulator (the kind with a hole at each end)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Building The Dipole Antenna:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
wire wire
|
|||
|
|
<I>---------------------+<I>+----------------------<I>
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
Short coax | |
|
|||
|
|
[U] UHF connector
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The antenna is set up much like a clothesline with the wires tethered
|
|||
|
|
straight out horizontally. The outer insulators are used to isolate the
|
|||
|
|
antenna from the tether lines, which should be rope or nylon cords
|
|||
|
|
for good results. The inner insulator isolates a gap between the two
|
|||
|
|
long wires of the antenna.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The length of the wires used for the antenna is critical.
|
|||
|
|
Look up the length in feet for the channel you want to use in the
|
|||
|
|
table below & make each of the two long wires that length.
|
|||
|
|
As a rule of thumb, a wire half-wave antenna's length in feet is equal to
|
|||
|
|
468 divided by the frequency in MHz.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
****************************************
|
|||
|
|
VHF Television Channel Data
|
|||
|
|
----------------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
TV MHz ---carrier--- antenna
|
|||
|
|
channel range video sound lengths
|
|||
|
|
------- ----- ----- ----- -------
|
|||
|
|
2 54-60 55.25 59.75 8.47ft
|
|||
|
|
3 60-66 61.25 65.75 7.64ft
|
|||
|
|
4 66-72 67.25 71.75 6.95ft
|
|||
|
|
5 76-82 77.25 81.75 6.05ft
|
|||
|
|
6 82-88 83.25 87.75 5.62ft
|
|||
|
|
7 174-180 175.25 179.75 2.67ft
|
|||
|
|
8 180-186 181.25 185.75 2.58ft
|
|||
|
|
9 186-192 187.25 191.75 2.49ft
|
|||
|
|
10 192-198 193.25 197.75 2.42ft
|
|||
|
|
11 198-204 199.25 193.75 2.34ft
|
|||
|
|
12 204-210 205.25 209.75 2.28ft
|
|||
|
|
13 210-216 211.25 215.75 2.21ft
|
|||
|
|
(All frequencies in MHz)
|
|||
|
|
(Lengths are for half-wave antennas)
|
|||
|
|
****************************************
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
For Further information: Look in the ARRL Handbook published by the American
|
|||
|
|
Radio Relay League for detailed plans & theory for antennas, transmitters &
|
|||
|
|
linear amplifiers. The info in that book can be used for setting up an
|
|||
|
|
underground AM or FM radio station.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Uses for a TV Clandestine Station:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Public Education: Make a videotape of each step in the process of constructing
|
|||
|
|
your transmitter. Show this tape in your broadcasts, "For informational purposes
|
|||
|
|
only", of course.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Short-burst zipping: From a fixed or mobile base of operation show short
|
|||
|
|
snippets of graffiti-like computer graphics, quick subliminal messages,
|
|||
|
|
images & suggestions, or brief phreaker manifestos. Commercials are an
|
|||
|
|
opportune time to break into TV broadcasts.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Live call-in shows: Using a Cheese Box, or other device for receiving
|
|||
|
|
untraceable phone calls and a video camera do a live call-in show. Encourage
|
|||
|
|
people to call in using Red, Blue, and other phreaking boxes.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Cable TV Piracy: With modifications it may be possible to feed the power RF
|
|||
|
|
signal directly into a cable TV system, overriding cablecasts or comandeering
|
|||
|
|
unused channels.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Mobile Operation: Using storage batteries and a 110-volt inverter the
|
|||
|
|
transmitter may be modified for mobile use to avoid detection by the FCC during
|
|||
|
|
long broadcasts. Battery operated mobile linear amps and portable camcorders are
|
|||
|
|
also available.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* Please add any anecdotes or new information you discover to this file *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
*****************************************************************************
|
|||
|
|
* The Tan Box *
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
* Written by: *
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
* Samurai Cat and Tarkin Darklighter *
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
*****************************************************************************
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Introduction
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The Tan box allows you to make recordings from a phone line, and it will
|
|||
|
|
only record once the victim's phone is picked up.
|
|||
|
|
Basically, this is a modified linesman's handset, or "Beige Box." For a
|
|||
|
|
copy of the Beige Box file, ask your friendly local sysop. A Beige Box
|
|||
|
|
consists of a speaker and two wires, a red (ring) and a green (tip). The Tan
|
|||
|
|
Box also works on this principle.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Construction
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A small cassette recorder, preferably a micro cassette recorder.
|
|||
|
|
(It MUST have both a microphone jack and a remote jack)
|
|||
|
|
A single line recording control. (Radio Shack part number 43-228)
|
|||
|
|
2 alligator clips (Radio Shack number 270-374)
|
|||
|
|
A plastic box to contain the above parts (also available at Radio Shack)
|
|||
|
|
Tan or Black spray paint
|
|||
|
|
7/16 inch hex driver
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. Take the recording control and cut the modular plug off. Make sure you
|
|||
|
|
leave enough wire!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2. Strip the red and green wires. (The yellow and black wires are not
|
|||
|
|
necessary, and can be removed.)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3. Drill a hole on the end of the plastic box (enough for two wires to go
|
|||
|
|
through).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4. Put the recording control in the box and run the red and green wires
|
|||
|
|
through the hole. Attach one alligator clip to each of the wires.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5. Put the micro cassette recorder in the box and plug the remote and
|
|||
|
|
microphone wires from the recording control into it.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
6. Close the box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
7. Spray paint the box and wires to make it look like it is supposed to be
|
|||
|
|
where it is. (BE SURE YOU LABEL THE WIRES BEFORE YOU PAINT THEM!)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Installation
|
|||
|
|
------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You can either hook it up to the box on the side of their house or a
|
|||
|
|
bridging head. Use the 7/16" hex driver to open either of these. (On older
|
|||
|
|
houses, you may not have to use a hex driver.) Attach the red wire to the
|
|||
|
|
right terminal and the green to the left. (Remember: Red-Ring-Right) If you
|
|||
|
|
attached the box to a bridging head, there may be room to leave it inside.
|
|||
|
|
If you attached it to the side of a house, run the wires out of their box and
|
|||
|
|
close it. Attach the Tan Box to the side of their house.
|
|||
|
|
Make sure you come back and get the box pretty soon, or you may find it
|
|||
|
|
gone! Micro cassette recorders are not cheap!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Be careful, wiretapping is a felony (2-20 years, a $10,000 fine, or
|
|||
|
|
both), and various other laws may be broken (i.e., recording without the
|
|||
|
|
other party knowing it, etc.)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Ways to avoid being Beige/Tan Boxed
|
|||
|
|
-----------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A tap detector may be purchased at Radio Shack (of course). If you do
|
|||
|
|
detect a tap, find the box, and you will have just gotten a new tape
|
|||
|
|
recorder!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Disclaimer
|
|||
|
|
----------
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This file was written for informational purposes only, so the authors
|
|||
|
|
will not assume any responsiblity for either the use or construction of the
|
|||
|
|
Tan Box.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THE TANGERINE BOX
|
|||
|
|
By Happy Harley
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First Off-This is fucking illegal so I would not try it at
|
|||
|
|
all. But have fun if you do, and BTW I assume no
|
|||
|
|
responsibilty for whatever the fuck you may do with this.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Intro-A tangerine box is a box that inables you to plug it
|
|||
|
|
in, then listen to the conversation, without them hearing a
|
|||
|
|
click or anything...plus a jack for headphone, or tape.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Parts:Modular Phone Conector
|
|||
|
|
Speaker
|
|||
|
|
Headphone Jack
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You can get these at your local Radio Shit, er Shack store...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Here the plans, schamateic or whatever
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Key To symbols:
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
=Modular Phone Jack, so does *.
|
|||
|
|
* *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
<==>=Speaker
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
V
|
|||
|
|
/<2F>\=Head phone jack
|
|||
|
|
R=Red
|
|||
|
|
G=Green
|
|||
|
|
B=Black
|
|||
|
|
Y=Yellow, or sometimes white
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
YYYYYYYYYYYY
|
|||
|
|
Y Y
|
|||
|
|
YYYYYYYYYYYYYYY <==> Y
|
|||
|
|
Y YY/ / YY
|
|||
|
|
Y G Y
|
|||
|
|
/ /GGGGGGG GG Y
|
|||
|
|
*Y *G G G Y
|
|||
|
|
G G Y
|
|||
|
|
*R *B G\ <20> /
|
|||
|
|
V
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Note=Just leave the Red&Black alone..
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Now, the speaker will be listening when ever the phone is
|
|||
|
|
plugged in, and when you plug a pair of headphone or a tape
|
|||
|
|
recorder into the Headphone jack, the speaker will
|
|||
|
|
automatically disable. Now have fun, and most
|
|||
|
|
importantly...DON'T GET CAUGHT
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Creating Portable Touchtone Keypads
|
|||
|
|
(White Boxes)
|
|||
|
|
{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{{|}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
This bulletin describes how to take a s tandard touch tone
|
|||
|
|
keypad and convert it to a portable unit. In a ddition, I give
|
|||
|
|
the touch tone frequencies.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First of all, the tones generated by a standard touch tone
|
|||
|
|
keypad (like one on a standard telephone) are not single tones,
|
|||
|
|
but a combination of two tones for each key pressed. Standard
|
|||
|
|
keypads normally generate 12 tone combinations, but are capable of
|
|||
|
|
generating 16 with a silver box mod.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The power required by a keypad is about 25 volts, but they will
|
|||
|
|
work with as little as 15, thereby allowing the use of two 9-
|
|||
|
|
volt radio batteries. As you may have guessed, they are also
|
|||
|
|
designed to operate with a telephone type speaker (and phone
|
|||
|
|
line), and not the standard 8-ohm speaker which needs to be
|
|||
|
|
used for adequate volume. To accompolish this, we use a
|
|||
|
|
matching transformer, this is one of those miniature ones
|
|||
|
|
available at Radio Shack. Enough of the theory, now for the
|
|||
|
|
circuit.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You will need:
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A touch tone keypad
|
|||
|
|
A miniature 1000 to 8 ohm transformer (Radio Shack # 273-1380)
|
|||
|
|
A standard 8-ohm speaker
|
|||
|
|
Two 9-volt radio batteries
|
|||
|
|
Two 9-volt battery clips
|
|||
|
|
A case to put it all in (optional)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A few construction notes, I suggest that you solder and tape
|
|||
|
|
all connections. It is also important to read this entire
|
|||
|
|
bulletin before attempting to construct this.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
First, connect the RED wire of the transformer to either
|
|||
|
|
terminal on the speaker. Now connect the WHITE wire from the
|
|||
|
|
transformer to the other terminal on th e speaker. Next,
|
|||
|
|
connect the RED (positive) wire of one battery clip to the black
|
|||
|
|
wire of the other battery clip. Now connect the the remaining
|
|||
|
|
RED wire on the second battery clip to the GREEN wire from the
|
|||
|
|
touch tone pad. Connect the BLUE wire from the touch tone pad
|
|||
|
|
to the ORANGE-and-BLACK striped wire from the touch tone pad.
|
|||
|
|
To these two wires, now connect the remaining black lead from
|
|||
|
|
first battery clip. You have now finished the power connection
|
|||
|
|
to the keypad. Connect the BLACK wire from the keypad to the
|
|||
|
|
BLUE wire on the transformer. Next connect the RED-and-GREEN
|
|||
|
|
striped wire from the keypad to the GREEN wire on the
|
|||
|
|
transformer. The BLACK wire on the transformer should not be
|
|||
|
|
connected to anything, along with quite a few wires from the
|
|||
|
|
keypad. The connection of the keypad is now complete. All you
|
|||
|
|
ha ve to do is connect two nine volt batteries to the battery
|
|||
|
|
clips, and you'll be ready to go. You may want to mount it in a
|
|||
|
|
case for easy portability. Note that the silver box modification
|
|||
|
|
CAN be made to this unit, allowing complete remote phreaking.
|
|||
|
|
Wh en none of the buttons are pressed, this unit uses NO power,
|
|||
|
|
thereby eliminating the need for a power switch, and extending
|
|||
|
|
the life of the batteries.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
The following are the frequency combinations generated by each
|
|||
|
|
button on the keypad.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
KEY FREQ. #1 FREQ. #2
|
|||
|
|
--- -------- --------
|
|||
|
|
1 697 1209
|
|||
|
|
2 697 1336
|
|||
|
|
3 697 1477
|
|||
|
|
A 697 1633
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4 770 1209
|
|||
|
|
5 770 1336
|
|||
|
|
6 770 1477
|
|||
|
|
B 770 1633
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
7 852 1209
|
|||
|
|
8 852 1336
|
|||
|
|
9 852 1477
|
|||
|
|
C 852 1633
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* 941 1209
|
|||
|
|
0 941 1336
|
|||
|
|
# 941 1477
|
|||
|
|
D 941 1633
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
All frequencies are measured in Hertz Note that A,B,C and D are
|
|||
|
|
not normally present (except for silver boxes)
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
(c) U.L.T.R.A. 1993
|
|||
|
|
U.L.T.R.A. #21 by Sinister X
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|||||| |||||| ||||||||
|
|||
|
|
|| || || ||
|
|||
|
|
|| || || ||
|
|||
|
|
|| || || |||||| ||||| ||||||||||
|
|||
|
|
|| || || || || || || ||
|
|||
|
|
|| || || || ||||| || ||
|
|||
|
|
|||||||| |||||| || || || |||||| ||||||
|
|||
|
|
|