236 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
236 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
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| H O W T O O P E N S A F E S |
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| Written by Night Breeze |
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| FUN! Burglar turned Hacker PROFIT! |
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| January 1992 |
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| This phile cannot be modified without express permission |
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| from the author. Fuck the copyright laws, I'll kick your ass! |
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In this document, I attempt to explain four methods for "cracking" home safes
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that do not need years of experience or too much practice. THIS PHILE IS FOR
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INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY (heeheeheehawhaw choke gag) AND I AM NOT IN ANY
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WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PHUCKED UP ATTEMPTS AT TRYING TO FOLLOW MY CONSISE
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INSTRUCTIONS THAT ANY MORON COULD DO BLIND-PHUCKIN-FOLDED!
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There are many ways to open or "crack" a safe. Some are very advanced, and
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some are by pure brute force. Many of the advance techniques require years of
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study and practice; often learned while incarcerated. In fact, many techniques
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are often learned while in prison, since invariably, the best pros make their
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homes there. The technique choosen for a safe is often based on the type of
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safe, in fact, some techniques are so specific, that they rely on exact makes
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and models of a particular brand. In recent years, safes are so scientifically
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exact that trying to crack them is an execise in futility for everyone but the
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most skilled Cracker. Obviously, this document will not be able to convey the
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many subtleties of the advanced techniques, however, there are many, many,
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safes out there that are perfectly crackable with only the barest of tools and
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the most modest of methods.
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A professional cracker chooses the safe that they will open before they ever
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get to it. Many are specialists in a particular style of safe and spend days
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"casing" a potential hit, but we, as amateurs, won't worry about that. The
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goal here is to allow the common house burgler who happens to find a safe and
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thinks "Cool, I think I'll try those techniques I read about.". The safes
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that are most easily opened are those older safes often found in the basements
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of the older houses in middle-lower middle class neighborhoods, since often,
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these houses used to be considered upper-middle class and many contains safes.
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Often these safes were embedded in the wall or floor, oh, say 30-40 years ago,
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AND ARE STILL BEING USED! Most people see a safe and feel they can trust it
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against burglers, and put all of their neat and valuable things in them.
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Misplaced trust.
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So, to recap, what we are looking for is an older safe, usually a dull, enamel
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black color in walls, or round grey safes found in the floors. If you are
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sacking a condo or a house in a nice, modern, neighborhood, don't waste your
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time on it...Now for some techniques...
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BUT FIRST,
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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* GOLDEN RULE: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a safe on *
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* site. What happens is that you will become engrossed in it *
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* and will forget about time. We know what could happen then. *
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* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
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THE AXE & CROW-BAR TECHNIQUE
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----------------------------
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Sounds pretty crude, and it is. This technique works best with a rather
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large person on a wall safe or a stand-alone safe. Older safes are built
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very sturdy, however, the weakest point on the safe is the bottom. If the
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safe is in the wall or floor, use an axe and hack it out. We are talking
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about a heavy two-handed axe, not a wimpy one handed job. Get the safe out
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and turn it over so it's top is on the floor. Then start whacking on it with
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the sharp side of the axe in the center of the safe. You might be surprised
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to learn that the larger safes are easier to open than the smaller safes. Try
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to hack a "slice" into it as long as you can, but it's a waste of time if it
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is longer than 1/2 of the safe's width. Then, using the crow-bar and the
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handle or head of the axe, lever the opening large enough to get your arm into
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it. Then turn the safe onto it's side and reach in for the stash. Two words
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of caution here: 1. This can be loud so it's not recommended in quiet 'hoods,
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and, 2. Many of the older safes are lined with asbestos. If you see white,
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flakey material, make sure that you brush all of the material away before
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reaching in since you probably don't have health insurance covering such
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"occupational" hazards.
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THE SLEDGE-HAMMER PUNCH TECHNIQUE
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---------------------------------
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Although it sounds like a brute-force method, actually, in it's time it was
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fairly sophisicated. This is my personal favorite. Behind every safe's dial
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is a gizzmo called a "spindle". The spindle is what the dial mechanism will
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turn until the right combination is given and the spindle is in the right
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position and the lock will open (see figure 1).
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Mechanism +----+
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Dial +-++ / | | <-- Punch
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\ | || | |
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+-----+ || ||||||||| <- Tumblers | |
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| ||--v----v--- | |
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| ||-----^---^- | |
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+-----+ || ||||||||| \ | |
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| || Spindle ||
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+-++ ||
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figure 1 figure 2
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Well, we don't have the time or the skill to open the safe by "ear", so what
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we do it pick up our trusty Sledge Hammer and whack off the dial. This can
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take two or three blows, (or four or five if you're a wimp), but the dial
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-will- come off. Now comes the do or die part. These spindles were casted in
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steel for years. About twenty years ago they started making the spindles
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using lead. If you get a Lead Spindle safe you gotta give it up right then or
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move on to another technique (remember the golden rule). If you are lucky,
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then you have a steel spindle and the next step proceeds. Take a tempered
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steel punch, see figure 2, which you got at a hardware store, and place the
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tip of the punch on the newly exposed spindle end. If you don't see it, it
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is covered, but is located (90% on older safes) in the center below the dial.
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Then pound on it with your handy-dandy sledge hammer until you feel a) the
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punch just seems to sink further in, like in clay, or b) you suddenly feel a
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release. If you think you are in (a), then you have a lead spindle and you
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are out of luck, but if you have a sharp release, then you are home free for
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the spindle snapped. Now you can take try the door, or if it still doesn't
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open, take a screw driver and try to get the spindle out. The door should
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then open freely for your pleasure....
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THE DRILL METHOD
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----------------
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Now we are starting to talk about some more advanced techniques. Using a
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drill always requires a bit of knowledge about the safe. Or the time and
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place to experiment (see the Helpful Hints at the bottom of this doc). All
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safes have a lever, that you turn to open the door. This lever is "locked" in
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place until the right combination is entered. What would happen if we broke
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that lever? The handle would turn, right? Well, most of the time... There
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are often two or three shafts connected to the lever involved in the door's
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handle (see figure 3). If one or more of these shafts are broken, then you
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can get in.
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*------------------------------* <-- Safe
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| + |
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| *------------------+-----* |
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| | shaft 2 --> + | |
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| ||| 1 + Handle
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| | ___ \ + / | |
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| | dial-> / \++++O=== | |
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| | \___/ + | |
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| | / + | |
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| ||| shaft 3 + | <--- Safe Door
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| | + | |
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| *------------------+-----* |
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| + |
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*------------------------------*
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figure 3
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You must have a extra-hardened drill bit about 1/4 inch in size. What you
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want to aim for is to drill a how into the front of the door so your bit
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drills through the various shafts. You first start with Shaft #1, for this
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shaft is connected to the dial. Don't worry if you have to drill two or three
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times (as long as the Golden Rule is watched), but you got to drill right
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through the shaft. Shaft #1 is the best because it make be enought to open
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the door right away. If not, then the best bet is to drill one or two inches
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below the dial, and if it still does not turn, then an inch or two above the
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dial. The door should open. In 99% of the cases, the shafts are arranged as
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a sideways T to the right of the dial. The more modern safes have double
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shafts in the 2 and 3 positions, which makes it a lot harder to drill out,
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not to mention harder metal, etc.
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THE HIGH-EXPLOSIVE TECHNIQUE
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----------------------------
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This is both a brute-force and a hight sophisticated method of opening a safe.
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It does require GOOD knowledge of using Plastique, TNT, or your favorite Bang
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Powder. The technique is simple and obvious. It is also obvious that you got
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to have the safe in a rather secluded place (you would be surprised at the
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number of burglarized houses that sport a hole in the living room...). You
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place the explosive on the dial or handle and KA-FUCKIN-BOOM! Now most people
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who try this for the first (or second, or third...) time will end up with
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SQUAT. You see, if you don't use enough explosive you don't open the safe. If
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you use too much explosive, you blow the fuck out of everything in the safe.
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Now I've only used this technique once, since I am normally nervous about
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handling things that go boom, but this is what I was advised to do (and did
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successfully): Use less explosive than you think you should (unless you know
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EXACTLY how much to put on) and detonate it. The door will be damaged but not
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opened. The trick is to keep using the same amount (or slightly less) each
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time as the door will be weakened each time it explodes. Don't use a little
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and increase it, thinking you will build up to the right amount. The other
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trick is to remember that explosives are called explosives because they
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explode OUT. This means that you want to place the explosives on the dial and
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place the safe on the ground so it sits ON THE DOOR. This way the explosive
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will bounce off of the ground back to the safe. Remember, always let the safe
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cool before trying to get everything out of it - high explosives make the edges
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of a open safe awful hot. The last tip is to make sure you're covered, 'cause
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if you use too much, safes are known to kill people when they fall on your
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head!
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HELPFUL HINTS
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-------------
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There are not many, but they should still be kept in mind.
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1. The Golden Rule: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a
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safe on site.
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2. If the safe can be carted away, DO IT. This gives you the ability
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to try more esoteric ways of opening it...And it's more fun than a
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Rubic's Cube.
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3. When using a drill, make sure they are case hardened (don't worry
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about using so-called diamond drills), and that you carry at least
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two extras (a total of three) in case they snap. Also, pace your-
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self while drilling so the drill-bit does not get too hot and snap.
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4. With every really great haul, consider buying a safe. This gives
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you ample opportunity to examine and experiment with more techniques
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advanced techniques.
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5. Never brag about your exploits. Professional Crackers won't ever
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teach you anything if they think they are going to be compromised.
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<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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This quality file was downloaded from
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E X T R E M E
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------------+------------ <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
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/|\ <20> <20>
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/ | \ <20> Portland Metro All Text BBS <20>
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/ | \ <20> <20>
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/ | \ <20> 2400: 731-5483 <20>
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/ | \ <20> SysOp: Thing One <20>
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/ | \ <20> <20>
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/ | \ <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
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d r e a m e s
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
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& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
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Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
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realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
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Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
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The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
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The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
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Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
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"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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