236 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
236 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
|
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\//\/\/\/\/\/\
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| H O W T O O P E N S A F E S |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| Written by Night Breeze |
|
|||
|
|
| FUN! Burglar turned Hacker PROFIT! |
|
|||
|
|
| January 1992 |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
| This phile cannot be modified without express permission |
|
|||
|
|
| from the author. Fuck the copyright laws, I'll kick your ass! |
|
|||
|
|
| |
|
|||
|
|
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\//\/\/\/\/\/\/
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
In this document, I attempt to explain four methods for "cracking" home safes
|
|||
|
|
that do not need years of experience or too much practice. THIS PHILE IS FOR
|
|||
|
|
INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY (heeheeheehawhaw choke gag) AND I AM NOT IN ANY
|
|||
|
|
WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR PHUCKED UP ATTEMPTS AT TRYING TO FOLLOW MY CONSISE
|
|||
|
|
INSTRUCTIONS THAT ANY MORON COULD DO BLIND-PHUCKIN-FOLDED!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
There are many ways to open or "crack" a safe. Some are very advanced, and
|
|||
|
|
some are by pure brute force. Many of the advance techniques require years of
|
|||
|
|
study and practice; often learned while incarcerated. In fact, many techniques
|
|||
|
|
are often learned while in prison, since invariably, the best pros make their
|
|||
|
|
homes there. The technique choosen for a safe is often based on the type of
|
|||
|
|
safe, in fact, some techniques are so specific, that they rely on exact makes
|
|||
|
|
and models of a particular brand. In recent years, safes are so scientifically
|
|||
|
|
exact that trying to crack them is an execise in futility for everyone but the
|
|||
|
|
most skilled Cracker. Obviously, this document will not be able to convey the
|
|||
|
|
many subtleties of the advanced techniques, however, there are many, many,
|
|||
|
|
safes out there that are perfectly crackable with only the barest of tools and
|
|||
|
|
the most modest of methods.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
A professional cracker chooses the safe that they will open before they ever
|
|||
|
|
get to it. Many are specialists in a particular style of safe and spend days
|
|||
|
|
"casing" a potential hit, but we, as amateurs, won't worry about that. The
|
|||
|
|
goal here is to allow the common house burgler who happens to find a safe and
|
|||
|
|
thinks "Cool, I think I'll try those techniques I read about.". The safes
|
|||
|
|
that are most easily opened are those older safes often found in the basements
|
|||
|
|
of the older houses in middle-lower middle class neighborhoods, since often,
|
|||
|
|
these houses used to be considered upper-middle class and many contains safes.
|
|||
|
|
Often these safes were embedded in the wall or floor, oh, say 30-40 years ago,
|
|||
|
|
AND ARE STILL BEING USED! Most people see a safe and feel they can trust it
|
|||
|
|
against burglers, and put all of their neat and valuable things in them.
|
|||
|
|
Misplaced trust.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
So, to recap, what we are looking for is an older safe, usually a dull, enamel
|
|||
|
|
black color in walls, or round grey safes found in the floors. If you are
|
|||
|
|
sacking a condo or a house in a nice, modern, neighborhood, don't waste your
|
|||
|
|
time on it...Now for some techniques...
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
BUT FIRST,
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
|
|||
|
|
* GOLDEN RULE: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a safe on *
|
|||
|
|
* site. What happens is that you will become engrossed in it *
|
|||
|
|
* and will forget about time. We know what could happen then. *
|
|||
|
|
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THE AXE & CROW-BAR TECHNIQUE
|
|||
|
|
----------------------------
|
|||
|
|
Sounds pretty crude, and it is. This technique works best with a rather
|
|||
|
|
large person on a wall safe or a stand-alone safe. Older safes are built
|
|||
|
|
very sturdy, however, the weakest point on the safe is the bottom. If the
|
|||
|
|
safe is in the wall or floor, use an axe and hack it out. We are talking
|
|||
|
|
about a heavy two-handed axe, not a wimpy one handed job. Get the safe out
|
|||
|
|
and turn it over so it's top is on the floor. Then start whacking on it with
|
|||
|
|
the sharp side of the axe in the center of the safe. You might be surprised
|
|||
|
|
to learn that the larger safes are easier to open than the smaller safes. Try
|
|||
|
|
to hack a "slice" into it as long as you can, but it's a waste of time if it
|
|||
|
|
is longer than 1/2 of the safe's width. Then, using the crow-bar and the
|
|||
|
|
handle or head of the axe, lever the opening large enough to get your arm into
|
|||
|
|
it. Then turn the safe onto it's side and reach in for the stash. Two words
|
|||
|
|
of caution here: 1. This can be loud so it's not recommended in quiet 'hoods,
|
|||
|
|
and, 2. Many of the older safes are lined with asbestos. If you see white,
|
|||
|
|
flakey material, make sure that you brush all of the material away before
|
|||
|
|
reaching in since you probably don't have health insurance covering such
|
|||
|
|
"occupational" hazards.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THE SLEDGE-HAMMER PUNCH TECHNIQUE
|
|||
|
|
---------------------------------
|
|||
|
|
Although it sounds like a brute-force method, actually, in it's time it was
|
|||
|
|
fairly sophisicated. This is my personal favorite. Behind every safe's dial
|
|||
|
|
is a gizzmo called a "spindle". The spindle is what the dial mechanism will
|
|||
|
|
turn until the right combination is given and the spindle is in the right
|
|||
|
|
position and the lock will open (see figure 1).
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Mechanism +----+
|
|||
|
|
Dial +-++ / | | <-- Punch
|
|||
|
|
\ | || | |
|
|||
|
|
+-----+ || ||||||||| <- Tumblers | |
|
|||
|
|
| ||--v----v--- | |
|
|||
|
|
| ||-----^---^- | |
|
|||
|
|
+-----+ || ||||||||| \ | |
|
|||
|
|
| || Spindle ||
|
|||
|
|
+-++ ||
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
figure 1 figure 2
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
Well, we don't have the time or the skill to open the safe by "ear", so what
|
|||
|
|
we do it pick up our trusty Sledge Hammer and whack off the dial. This can
|
|||
|
|
take two or three blows, (or four or five if you're a wimp), but the dial
|
|||
|
|
-will- come off. Now comes the do or die part. These spindles were casted in
|
|||
|
|
steel for years. About twenty years ago they started making the spindles
|
|||
|
|
using lead. If you get a Lead Spindle safe you gotta give it up right then or
|
|||
|
|
move on to another technique (remember the golden rule). If you are lucky,
|
|||
|
|
then you have a steel spindle and the next step proceeds. Take a tempered
|
|||
|
|
steel punch, see figure 2, which you got at a hardware store, and place the
|
|||
|
|
tip of the punch on the newly exposed spindle end. If you don't see it, it
|
|||
|
|
is covered, but is located (90% on older safes) in the center below the dial.
|
|||
|
|
Then pound on it with your handy-dandy sledge hammer until you feel a) the
|
|||
|
|
punch just seems to sink further in, like in clay, or b) you suddenly feel a
|
|||
|
|
release. If you think you are in (a), then you have a lead spindle and you
|
|||
|
|
are out of luck, but if you have a sharp release, then you are home free for
|
|||
|
|
the spindle snapped. Now you can take try the door, or if it still doesn't
|
|||
|
|
open, take a screw driver and try to get the spindle out. The door should
|
|||
|
|
then open freely for your pleasure....
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THE DRILL METHOD
|
|||
|
|
----------------
|
|||
|
|
Now we are starting to talk about some more advanced techniques. Using a
|
|||
|
|
drill always requires a bit of knowledge about the safe. Or the time and
|
|||
|
|
place to experiment (see the Helpful Hints at the bottom of this doc). All
|
|||
|
|
safes have a lever, that you turn to open the door. This lever is "locked" in
|
|||
|
|
place until the right combination is entered. What would happen if we broke
|
|||
|
|
that lever? The handle would turn, right? Well, most of the time... There
|
|||
|
|
are often two or three shafts connected to the lever involved in the door's
|
|||
|
|
handle (see figure 3). If one or more of these shafts are broken, then you
|
|||
|
|
can get in.
|
|||
|
|
*------------------------------* <-- Safe
|
|||
|
|
| + |
|
|||
|
|
| *------------------+-----* |
|
|||
|
|
| | shaft 2 --> + | |
|
|||
|
|
| ||| 1 + Handle
|
|||
|
|
| | ___ \ + / | |
|
|||
|
|
| | dial-> / \++++O=== | |
|
|||
|
|
| | \___/ + | |
|
|||
|
|
| | / + | |
|
|||
|
|
| ||| shaft 3 + | <--- Safe Door
|
|||
|
|
| | + | |
|
|||
|
|
| *------------------+-----* |
|
|||
|
|
| + |
|
|||
|
|
*------------------------------*
|
|||
|
|
figure 3
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
You must have a extra-hardened drill bit about 1/4 inch in size. What you
|
|||
|
|
want to aim for is to drill a how into the front of the door so your bit
|
|||
|
|
drills through the various shafts. You first start with Shaft #1, for this
|
|||
|
|
shaft is connected to the dial. Don't worry if you have to drill two or three
|
|||
|
|
times (as long as the Golden Rule is watched), but you got to drill right
|
|||
|
|
through the shaft. Shaft #1 is the best because it make be enought to open
|
|||
|
|
the door right away. If not, then the best bet is to drill one or two inches
|
|||
|
|
below the dial, and if it still does not turn, then an inch or two above the
|
|||
|
|
dial. The door should open. In 99% of the cases, the shafts are arranged as
|
|||
|
|
a sideways T to the right of the dial. The more modern safes have double
|
|||
|
|
shafts in the 2 and 3 positions, which makes it a lot harder to drill out,
|
|||
|
|
not to mention harder metal, etc.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
THE HIGH-EXPLOSIVE TECHNIQUE
|
|||
|
|
----------------------------
|
|||
|
|
This is both a brute-force and a hight sophisticated method of opening a safe.
|
|||
|
|
It does require GOOD knowledge of using Plastique, TNT, or your favorite Bang
|
|||
|
|
Powder. The technique is simple and obvious. It is also obvious that you got
|
|||
|
|
to have the safe in a rather secluded place (you would be surprised at the
|
|||
|
|
number of burglarized houses that sport a hole in the living room...). You
|
|||
|
|
place the explosive on the dial or handle and KA-FUCKIN-BOOM! Now most people
|
|||
|
|
who try this for the first (or second, or third...) time will end up with
|
|||
|
|
SQUAT. You see, if you don't use enough explosive you don't open the safe. If
|
|||
|
|
you use too much explosive, you blow the fuck out of everything in the safe.
|
|||
|
|
Now I've only used this technique once, since I am normally nervous about
|
|||
|
|
handling things that go boom, but this is what I was advised to do (and did
|
|||
|
|
successfully): Use less explosive than you think you should (unless you know
|
|||
|
|
EXACTLY how much to put on) and detonate it. The door will be damaged but not
|
|||
|
|
opened. The trick is to keep using the same amount (or slightly less) each
|
|||
|
|
time as the door will be weakened each time it explodes. Don't use a little
|
|||
|
|
and increase it, thinking you will build up to the right amount. The other
|
|||
|
|
trick is to remember that explosives are called explosives because they
|
|||
|
|
explode OUT. This means that you want to place the explosives on the dial and
|
|||
|
|
place the safe on the ground so it sits ON THE DOOR. This way the explosive
|
|||
|
|
will bounce off of the ground back to the safe. Remember, always let the safe
|
|||
|
|
cool before trying to get everything out of it - high explosives make the edges
|
|||
|
|
of a open safe awful hot. The last tip is to make sure you're covered, 'cause
|
|||
|
|
if you use too much, safes are known to kill people when they fall on your
|
|||
|
|
head!
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
HELPFUL HINTS
|
|||
|
|
-------------
|
|||
|
|
There are not many, but they should still be kept in mind.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
1. The Golden Rule: Don't spend more than 20 minutes trying to crack a
|
|||
|
|
safe on site.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
2. If the safe can be carted away, DO IT. This gives you the ability
|
|||
|
|
to try more esoteric ways of opening it...And it's more fun than a
|
|||
|
|
Rubic's Cube.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
3. When using a drill, make sure they are case hardened (don't worry
|
|||
|
|
about using so-called diamond drills), and that you carry at least
|
|||
|
|
two extras (a total of three) in case they snap. Also, pace your-
|
|||
|
|
self while drilling so the drill-bit does not get too hot and snap.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
4. With every really great haul, consider buying a safe. This gives
|
|||
|
|
you ample opportunity to examine and experiment with more techniques
|
|||
|
|
advanced techniques.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
5. Never brag about your exploits. Professional Crackers won't ever
|
|||
|
|
teach you anything if they think they are going to be compromised.
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
|
|||
|
|
This quality file was downloaded from
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
E X T R E M E
|
|||
|
|
------------+------------ <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
|
|||
|
|
/|\ <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20> Portland Metro All Text BBS <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20> 2400: 731-5483 <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20> SysOp: Thing One <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20> <20>
|
|||
|
|
/ | \ <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
|
|||
|
|
d r e a m e s
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
|
|||
|
|
Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
|
|||
|
|
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
|
|||
|
|
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
|
|||
|
|
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
|
|||
|
|
The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
|
|||
|
|
The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
|
|||
|
|
Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
|
|||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
|
|||
|
|
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
|