textfiles/drugs/MARYJANE/growpot.hum

-==Mr. Wizard==I--D  presents...

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	    : Cannabis Cultivation Made Easy :
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DISCLAIMER:  Everyone in this great nation of ours is reminded that writing and
posession of this information is perfectly legal under FREEDOM OF THE PRESS.
No one can be arrested for ANYTHING by writing, reading, or posessing this
file.  In fact, several authors have already taken the liberty to LEGALLY
publish and receive royalties on extensive works on the same subject.  Authors
do not take any responsibility for occurences caused by this or any other work.


Introduction
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This is only a basic guide for growing marijuana outdoors, since it really
doesn't take much effort as long as the basic but proper demands are met.  Once
the plant gets going...  well, they don't call it WEED for nothing.  After
reading this guide, you'll see how pitifully easy it is to grow decent Cannabis
Indica/Sativa.

Soil preparation
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Soil should come from a bag, not your garden, unless it originated from one.
The reason for this is because most indigenous soil types don't have the
moisture holding capacity that potting soils and garden mixtures do.

Potting mixes generally are the best, since:

   o Isolation from disease-riddled soil
   o High in nutrient content for all plants
   o Neutral pH (aprox. 7)
   o High moisture holding capacity
   o Excellent drainage to prevent root-rot

It's good to get a mix that has redwood, sand, compost, and a bit of clay too.
Look for these elements when selecting.  The more natural, the better.
"Professional Potting Mix" is something to look into for this quality, since
(it ususally says on the label) it suits for ALL stages of plant growth.

It's a good idea to mix some potash to the soil for the potassium, and you can
get from ashes from a wood fire.  Take out the chunks and use the grey dust.
You only need a handfull per bucketfull, and mix it in thoroughly.

Seeds and germination
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The best way to select seeds is to get them from the best marijuana you've
smoked, and save them.	Any serious grower won't stick with Mexican unless he
likes it, and Cannabis Indica is the prefered since it tastes good and fetches
a higher price.  Hawaiian seeds are among the best too.

Again, chances are you'll grow what you smoke.

Be sure the seeds are mature and have a definite shell.  Seeds that are lighter
in color and smaller aren't mature and probably won't germinate.

*** PLANTING SEASON:  Spring to summer for best results.  ***

Plant the seeds in moist soil in a container at a depth between 1/4" and 3/8"
with the points pointing up.  This is so that the first sprout has an easier
time breaking the soil surface.

Plant the seeds in close proximity of eachother, and two seeds touching
eachother is OK, but not in piles.  A container of at least 5" across and 4"
deep should be used so that the soil holds water easily and won't dry.  Line
the bottom of the container with about an inch of small pebbles to afford
better drainage.  A good number of seeds planted in such a container can be
10-18 in case some don't germinate.  Don't worry about density of the plants,
thinning instructions are next.

Germination occurs with water and warmth.  To properly combine these, plant the
seeds in moist soil, soak, and place in full sun in the morning and make sure
they receive full sun all day every day for about 7 days or until green sprouts
are visible.  Water a little when the soil seems to be drying out; the seeds
must CONSTANTLY be in MOIST soil!  Watering will vary with area, so develop a
decent watering schedule.  Don't soak the seedings or overwater, it was only
initially that it was neccesary to moisten the entire container of soil.

Seedling care and transplanting
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Once the seedlings have the first green, round leaves in full form and tiny
secondary leaves are visible (or before the secondary leaves are visible),
transplanting to individual containers is now feasible.  Don't wait too long,
or the seedling will develop a few fragile roots that, if severed, can
"suffocate" the plant and hamper growth.

Dig up the seedling carefully, and replace the seedling without the surrounding
soil to the container of your choice (preferably one that can afford vegetative
growth for about a month, like a large milk carton or large coffee can; poke
plenty of holes) using the same soil and pebble method described earlier.

Be SURE to replace the seedling in the same position and depth as when it left
the previous container.  For instance, if the root is off at an angle, replace
the seedling and conserve the root angle under the soil.  Cover with soil and
water generously.

Vegetative growth
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Now that vegetative growth is under way, care for the plant is less as long as
it receieves as much sun as possible, and kept moist.

Once the plant is of significant size (3 inches or so) watering can be every
other day unless the weather is hot and dry.  Be sure the container has ample
drainage!

After the plant has reached a larger height of about 8 inches, it is time to
transfer the plant again before it outgrows its container.  This time the root
ball must be conserved in the soil, and the lump of soil must be moved all at
once into a hole in the soil large enough.

It is best to transfer all of the soil from the previous container, which is
why a milk carton is so convenient; a corner can be cut along the spine (1) and
the bottom cut off (2) so that the container can be slid away after the
(bottomless) container is lowered into the new hole.  This can be an even
larger container like a 5 gallon planter or directly into the ground.

When planting into the ground, be sure that the immediate soil is of the same
type, then gradually mixing with the local soil.  Mixing in some manure to add
texture and nutrients wouldn't hurt.

To be safe, dig a hole about 3 feet deep or more for a full size and
full-growing plant.  Cover the topsoil with 1/2" of small pebbles to prevent
erosion.

Water generously occasionally to keep soil damp, not constantly wet.

Maturation and sexing
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Maturation comes about between 4-6 months, and when the plant notices days
getting shorter it will begin to flower and bud.  Since the female is the sex
desired, be watchful for any flowering.  Male plants have much more conspicuous
flowers, bearing out on a stem from the bud or leaf mass.  Female flowers are
tucked away within the buds of the plant, with small hairlike structures
protruding from the bud mass.

It is best to remove male plants from the vicinity of the females to prevent
fertilization and seed production, unless cross-breeding is intended.  This to
produce seedless buds.

Harvesting
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Harvesting takes place when the female plants are in full bloom, just before
the life cycle of the plant ends.  Harvesting is the most critical time for
determination of the quality of the plant.  Too early, and THC (active
ingredient) production won't be at its completion and peak; too late, and THC
begins to break down.  However, it is easier to harvest too early.  Watch the
growth of the buds and the leaves; when the bloom seems very full, compare day
to day.  Take a "field test." If a few buds seem to be full and ready while the
rest of the plant is still growing, feel free to pick them off gently.	If the
leaves and bud clusters seem to be losing vitality, harvest right away.  Don't
wait too long!

Cut sections from the plant and hang them in a dry, dark, and well-ventilated
place until the texture is soft but almost dry.

It's ready.

Conclusion
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This is a very basic guide to the whole process, and there are many books
published on the subject.  The most well-known and highly acclaimed author is
ED ROSENTHAL, author of THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE.  If more information is
needed, this publication is highly reccomended.

Of course THIS is not a guide for "commercial" growers, but for rather more the
consumer who wishes to undertake such a project outdoors; nor is this guide a
direct plagarism from any work.


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	      : A  Mr. Wizard  presentation   (c) 1988 :
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