176 lines
8.3 KiB
Plaintext
176 lines
8.3 KiB
Plaintext
-==Mr. Wizard==I--D presents...
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: Cannabis Cultivation Made Easy :
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DISCLAIMER: Everyone in this great nation of ours is reminded that writing and
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posession of this information is perfectly legal under FREEDOM OF THE PRESS.
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No one can be arrested for ANYTHING by writing, reading, or posessing this
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file. In fact, several authors have already taken the liberty to LEGALLY
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publish and receive royalties on extensive works on the same subject. Authors
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do not take any responsibility for occurences caused by this or any other work.
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Introduction
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""""""""""""
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This is only a basic guide for growing marijuana outdoors, since it really
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doesn't take much effort as long as the basic but proper demands are met. Once
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the plant gets going... well, they don't call it WEED for nothing. After
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reading this guide, you'll see how pitifully easy it is to grow decent Cannabis
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Indica/Sativa.
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Soil preparation
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Soil should come from a bag, not your garden, unless it originated from one.
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The reason for this is because most indigenous soil types don't have the
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moisture holding capacity that potting soils and garden mixtures do.
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Potting mixes generally are the best, since:
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o Isolation from disease-riddled soil
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o High in nutrient content for all plants
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o Neutral pH (aprox. 7)
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o High moisture holding capacity
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o Excellent drainage to prevent root-rot
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It's good to get a mix that has redwood, sand, compost, and a bit of clay too.
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Look for these elements when selecting. The more natural, the better.
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"Professional Potting Mix" is something to look into for this quality, since
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(it ususally says on the label) it suits for ALL stages of plant growth.
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It's a good idea to mix some potash to the soil for the potassium, and you can
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get from ashes from a wood fire. Take out the chunks and use the grey dust.
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You only need a handfull per bucketfull, and mix it in thoroughly.
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Seeds and germination
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The best way to select seeds is to get them from the best marijuana you've
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smoked, and save them. Any serious grower won't stick with Mexican unless he
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likes it, and Cannabis Indica is the prefered since it tastes good and fetches
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a higher price. Hawaiian seeds are among the best too.
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Again, chances are you'll grow what you smoke.
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Be sure the seeds are mature and have a definite shell. Seeds that are lighter
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in color and smaller aren't mature and probably won't germinate.
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*** PLANTING SEASON: Spring to summer for best results. ***
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Plant the seeds in moist soil in a container at a depth between 1/4" and 3/8"
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with the points pointing up. This is so that the first sprout has an easier
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time breaking the soil surface.
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Plant the seeds in close proximity of eachother, and two seeds touching
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eachother is OK, but not in piles. A container of at least 5" across and 4"
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deep should be used so that the soil holds water easily and won't dry. Line
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the bottom of the container with about an inch of small pebbles to afford
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better drainage. A good number of seeds planted in such a container can be
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10-18 in case some don't germinate. Don't worry about density of the plants,
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thinning instructions are next.
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Germination occurs with water and warmth. To properly combine these, plant the
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seeds in moist soil, soak, and place in full sun in the morning and make sure
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they receive full sun all day every day for about 7 days or until green sprouts
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are visible. Water a little when the soil seems to be drying out; the seeds
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must CONSTANTLY be in MOIST soil! Watering will vary with area, so develop a
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decent watering schedule. Don't soak the seedings or overwater, it was only
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initially that it was neccesary to moisten the entire container of soil.
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Seedling care and transplanting
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"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
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Once the seedlings have the first green, round leaves in full form and tiny
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secondary leaves are visible (or before the secondary leaves are visible),
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transplanting to individual containers is now feasible. Don't wait too long,
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or the seedling will develop a few fragile roots that, if severed, can
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"suffocate" the plant and hamper growth.
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Dig up the seedling carefully, and replace the seedling without the surrounding
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soil to the container of your choice (preferably one that can afford vegetative
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growth for about a month, like a large milk carton or large coffee can; poke
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plenty of holes) using the same soil and pebble method described earlier.
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Be SURE to replace the seedling in the same position and depth as when it left
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the previous container. For instance, if the root is off at an angle, replace
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the seedling and conserve the root angle under the soil. Cover with soil and
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water generously.
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Vegetative growth
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Now that vegetative growth is under way, care for the plant is less as long as
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it receieves as much sun as possible, and kept moist.
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Once the plant is of significant size (3 inches or so) watering can be every
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other day unless the weather is hot and dry. Be sure the container has ample
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drainage!
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After the plant has reached a larger height of about 8 inches, it is time to
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transfer the plant again before it outgrows its container. This time the root
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ball must be conserved in the soil, and the lump of soil must be moved all at
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once into a hole in the soil large enough.
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It is best to transfer all of the soil from the previous container, which is
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why a milk carton is so convenient; a corner can be cut along the spine (1) and
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the bottom cut off (2) so that the container can be slid away after the
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(bottomless) container is lowered into the new hole. This can be an even
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larger container like a 5 gallon planter or directly into the ground.
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When planting into the ground, be sure that the immediate soil is of the same
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type, then gradually mixing with the local soil. Mixing in some manure to add
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texture and nutrients wouldn't hurt.
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To be safe, dig a hole about 3 feet deep or more for a full size and
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full-growing plant. Cover the topsoil with 1/2" of small pebbles to prevent
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erosion.
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Water generously occasionally to keep soil damp, not constantly wet.
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Maturation and sexing
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"""""""""""""""""""""
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Maturation comes about between 4-6 months, and when the plant notices days
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getting shorter it will begin to flower and bud. Since the female is the sex
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desired, be watchful for any flowering. Male plants have much more conspicuous
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flowers, bearing out on a stem from the bud or leaf mass. Female flowers are
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tucked away within the buds of the plant, with small hairlike structures
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protruding from the bud mass.
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It is best to remove male plants from the vicinity of the females to prevent
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fertilization and seed production, unless cross-breeding is intended. This to
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produce seedless buds.
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Harvesting
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Harvesting takes place when the female plants are in full bloom, just before
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the life cycle of the plant ends. Harvesting is the most critical time for
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determination of the quality of the plant. Too early, and THC (active
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ingredient) production won't be at its completion and peak; too late, and THC
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begins to break down. However, it is easier to harvest too early. Watch the
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growth of the buds and the leaves; when the bloom seems very full, compare day
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to day. Take a "field test." If a few buds seem to be full and ready while the
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rest of the plant is still growing, feel free to pick them off gently. If the
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leaves and bud clusters seem to be losing vitality, harvest right away. Don't
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wait too long!
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Cut sections from the plant and hang them in a dry, dark, and well-ventilated
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place until the texture is soft but almost dry.
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It's ready.
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Conclusion
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This is a very basic guide to the whole process, and there are many books
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published on the subject. The most well-known and highly acclaimed author is
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ED ROSENTHAL, author of THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE. If more information is
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needed, this publication is highly reccomended.
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Of course THIS is not a guide for "commercial" growers, but for rather more the
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consumer who wishes to undertake such a project outdoors; nor is this guide a
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direct plagarism from any work.
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
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: A Mr. Wizard presentation (c) 1988 :
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