408 lines
21 KiB
Plaintext
408 lines
21 KiB
Plaintext
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H O M E M A D E
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A L C O H O L
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Version 2
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By: Zero
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zerotextspy@yahoo.com
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June 22nd, 2011
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INTRODUCTION
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In this file I am going to present to you the simple method(s) for making
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drinkable alcohol; this is so easy a kid could do it. There isn't much to introduce
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here, as everyone on Earth (well, almost everyone) knows what alcohol is, and the
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effects it has when it is consumed. So let's just get right to the alcohol production.
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INTRODUCTION TO VERSION 2
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After researching the home production of alcohol quite a bit, I decided to
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expand this file a bit more for further education. Many things remain the same; the
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first "fermentation" recipe stays the same as in the July 19th 2008 file, but with a
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few added twists to increase yields of alcohol, give more options, etc. What is
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primarily different is the recipes for Beer, and higher alcohols; ex: distilled
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alcohols. You will read how to build a basic distillation apparatus for distilling
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higher alcohols.
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Please take note, though, that while it is perfectly legal to brew your own
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alcohol, it is completely illegal to distill your own alcohol. This is a crime, no
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matter how you look at it. Now, as to whether or not that crime is enforced, or not,
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is another issue. But be aware that distilling alcohol is (for some reason), illegal.
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This is not the case in New Zealand, as far as I am aware.
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Thank you Jason Scott of textfiles.com for hosting all of my files. I'm glad
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to see that you are still keeping the spirit of textfiles alive.
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Take note that this file was written in Windows Notepad, and therefor is under
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the "FIXEDSYS" font. If you transfer this file over to scribd (where I've seen quite a
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few of my files land), or to any HTML website, be sure to change the font to "FIXEDSYS"
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to save the ASCII art rendering, and keep the file looking the same.
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BEGINNING
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You should probably have a few things before you start. Through this document
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I'll explain, as you need them, what you'll need. A few things that would be a good
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idea to have, though:
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*-Basic Mechanical Skills
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*-Food Grade Buckets and Containers
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*-Cleaning Supplies
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*-Sugars (can include fruits)
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*-Supply of Fresh Water
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Take note that if you are serious about making alcohol, you will read this
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textfile, and then get on google and start searching. There are hundreds of books and
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websites way better than this textfile that will give you way more in depth
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information. This textfile is legitimate, all of these things do work; but it is the
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bare-bone starter for someone who is just messing around.
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A BASIC ALCOHOL RECIPE
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We make ethanol (drinkable alcohol) by the fermentation of sugar using yeast.
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In this recipe, you will need three basic ingredients:
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*-Sugar
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*-Water
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*-Yeast
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Lets start with the yeast. You will go to Wal-Mart, or wherever, and go to the
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flour/sugar/cake section to find typical Baker's Yeast. You will find two items, either
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the yeast in small packets (sold as three packets each), or a small container of yeast.
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I suggest buying the packets. If you would like, though, you can order yeast off of the
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internet that will be better. The thing about baker's yeast is the bread taste that it
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has with it (this stuff is used to make bread), but it is tolerable and will work. If
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you order the yeast off of the internet, search for any yeast used to make high
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concentrations of alcohol; this is called "Turbo Yeast." Turbo Yeast ordered online is
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exceptionally cheap; a little over $1.00 per packet. When you use turbo yeast, you can
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potentially produce 18% alcohol; thats 36 Proof alcohol.
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The sugar is easy; just get a cheap bag of sugar. You'll only need a few cups
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per gallon of alcohol you make, so just get a big bag and make a crapload of alcohol;
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simple as that. You can substitute normal white sugar with brown sugar, as well. If you
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substitute with brown sugar, then you are adding a different flavor. This may be
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suggested for those wanting to experiment. If you distill the brown sugar alcohol, you
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will have a rum, of sorts.
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Water is not extraordinarily important. If you have decent tap water in your
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house, then this will due just fine. If your tap water is suspect, or if you would like
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a "cleaner" tasting alcohol, then just buy a few gallons of drinking water (these are
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like 80 cents each). Also, you will need the 1-gallon jugs anyway, so you may as well
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just buy the gallons of drinking water and use the water they have.
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For the materials, you will need only a pack of balloons, and the gallon size
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jug(s). When it comes to the gallon size jugs, I suggest using the drinking water jugs
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of course, but if you are forced to use a milk jug, then be certain to clean it out
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using bleach and hot water; you are going to be fermenting sugar in here for a few
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days, so you definitely want to make for certain that you don't get any crap bacterial
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growth in them. Things must be clean; period!
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The materials can - and should - be altered. The above (the plastic gallon jug,
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and balloons) are for the most basic thrown together setup. For someone wanting to
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have a little more success, I suggest buying a 5 gallon plastic pail - these can be
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bought at Wal-Mart, Lowes, Home Depot, or virtually anywhere. They are typical white 5
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gallon plastic pails that have a lid. This will be used for fermenting your alcohol
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instead of a 1 gallon plastic jug. They allow for more head space, better fermentation,
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and more control.
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The balloons are used to keep air from entering into the container; they are
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useful, but not the best. I suggest that you buy an Air Lock. You can find airlocks on
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Ebay, any brew shop, or any online brew shop for about $0.75 cents per air lock. All
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they do is keep air from entering into the container by using a water barrier. I
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suggest you have one of these; they are worth it. To use it, simply drill a hole in the
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lid of your container, and slide the air lock into the hole. When the air lock is
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filled with water, it will allow air to escape, but not allow air to come in.
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To start, add 3 1/2 cups of sugar to the gallon sized jug. Next, fill it with
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13 cups of luke-warm water. Now, in a sauce pan (pot), add 1 cup of luke-warm water,
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and dump a packet of yeast in it. Do not stir the yeast; it will disturb it. You want
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to activate the yeast, so just let it sit there for a little while to hydrate. You will
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begin to notice that the yeast is foaming and bubbling. Once the yeast has dissolved
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completely into the cup of water, you can stir it a little bit, and add it to the
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gallon jug with the sugar and water.
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Note that the above procedure is meant for the gallon sized jug. Scale this up
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times 4 if you are using the plastic pail. So you would use 14 cups of sugar, and
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3 1/4 gallons of water.
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Put the cap on the jug, and shake the living crap out of it to get all of the
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sugar and yeast dissolved completely in the water. You should notice immediate foaming
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action. Now take the cap off, and put a balloon over the top of the container; secure
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it with tape. Now poke about 5 very small pin holes in the top of the balloon. Now
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it's time to wait.
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If using the plastic pail, instead you should pour the yeast into it, then stir
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it with a large wooden spoon to give it some air to work off of. Once it is stirred
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very well, put the lid on with the air lock, and let it work.
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When you are making alcohol, a by-product is carbon dioxide. This carbon
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dioxide needs to escape from the jug while also not letting oxygen in. Oxygen is
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damaging to the fermentation process, so the balloon protects everything from oxygen
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while also letting the carbon dioxide out safely. In a few hours, you will see the
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balloon inflate and hear the carbon dioxide coming out. Put the jug in a good place
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(like in your closet), and allow it to ferment for about 7 to 10 days. This time is
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not specific, but you can judge when the fermentation is done by viewing if the
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balloon has deflated. Once the balloon has deflated a lot, and is no longer putting
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off any gas, then your alcohol is ready.
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For the plastic pail, you can judge when it is done by how many bubbles come
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out of your air lock per minute. When it stops blowing bubbles out, it is done.
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Remember that you do not want your ferment to be too hot, or too cold; this will kill
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the yeast. If it is really cold in your house, then insulate the jug, or bucket, with
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something to keep the warmth inside. If it is superiorly hot inside your house, then
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stick the bucket in the coolest place in the house; like the kitchen. Do not
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refrigerate; this will stop the yeast's action.
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You should notice at the bottom of the container some sediment; this is just
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yeast leftovers that taste like bread and will make you fart (it's true). Simply pour
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the strange smelling sugar wine into a new container, and leave the yeast behind. If
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you want it to taste better, let it sit for about a month. It is perfectly fine to
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drink, though. The concentration of alcohol is low, but drinking it serves as no
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problem whatsoever.
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If you used the turbo yeast, then there will be no bread smell, or taste, at
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all. Remember that a good tell of whether or not the alcohol is done is whether or not
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you can taste a sugary substance, or a bitter substance. If the liquid tastes sugary;
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then it did not work. If it tastes bitter; then you made alcohol.
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BEER RECIPE
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Beer can be somewhat more difficult to make; but it is not beyond your
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limitations. It requires a few more ingredients - all of which can be bought at a brew
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shop, at your local grocery store, or online. There are plenty of kits available
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online, or even at some grocery stores that will give you everything you need to make a
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fairly respectable beer. If you want to do this from scratch, though, then follow this
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recipe. Note that this is the most simple recipe for beer I could come up with. It does
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not require buying any grains or doing anythign extensive; just a simple old style beer
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recipe. Enjoy this one.
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You will need:
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*-4lbs Sugar
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*-1 Packet of Beer Yeast (or 2 1/4 tsp of baker's bread yeast)
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*-2.2lb Can of Premier Malt Extract
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*-Fresh Water
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*-2 five gallon food grade buckets
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*-Airlock
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*-Bottles
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First off, you want to build your fermentation bucket. This bucket is nothing
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special, just a typical food grade bucket. Drill a hole in the top of it big enough to
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fit your air lock. What is an airlock? It is a device that allows air to escape, but
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does not allow ay air in. It's the same thing as the balloon method used in the simple
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recipe I gave earlier. It works like so:
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|~~~~~~~~|
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| <--------Water
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| || | <---Plastic Container
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\ || /
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\ || /
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\ || /
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\||/
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|| <---------Air Tube
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It is simply a small container that holds water. Inside the container is water,
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and a small tube. The small tube allows gas to pass through it, bubbling through the
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water and escaping; but not allowing any outside air to come into the tube. Genius,
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right? Just google search "Airlock" in regards to fermentation, and buy one for $1.
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Anyway. Once that is built, begin making your beer mixture. Do this buy pouring
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your malt syrup, sugar, and 1-2 gallons of water inside a big crock pot on the stove.
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Heat this to boiling until the syrup and sugar are completely dissolved. Once
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dissolved, pour the mixture into the five gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with cold
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fresh water until it reaches near the top - leave about three inches from the top. Once
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that is done, follow the instructions on the yeast packet, and add the yeast to your
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mixture.
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Attach the lid to your bucket, with the airlock attached to the lid. Within an
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hour or two - or maybe a little more - you will notice the airlock bubbling. The
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fermentation has started, and you now wait about seven days. Keep the bucket away from
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light. After seven days, siphon the fermented contents of the bucket to a new clean 5
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gallon bucket. Cover the bucket with the airlocked lid, again, and let it ferment for
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another 7 days; or until the airlock gives 1 bubble every 2 minutes.
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Next, sterilize your bottles. Do this in the best way you know how; you want to
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make sure they are clean inside and out. You can use plastic coke bottles to do this;
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there's nothing wrong with it. You can buy glass bottles and a bottle capper; but that
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costs money and you may not want to spend that money for this cheap of a beer.
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Next, make a mixture of 1-1/4 cup of sugar, and 4 cups of water. Clean and
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sterilize the first bucket you used, and siphon the beer from the second bucket back
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into the first. Add the water and sugar (this will prime it so it has carbonation).
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Make sure you mix the sugar-water and brew evenly! Once this is done, simply siphon the
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beer from the bucket into your bottles; beer bottles or soda bottles, it doesn't
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matter.
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Wait 7 days for the beer to carbonate. The reason you added that last bit of
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sugar and water to the brew is so the yeast could have a minimal amount of leftover
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sugar to eat at, and create carbon dioxide; which is what carbonates your beer. Waiting
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7 days will allow carbonation to take place inside the bottles. After 7 days, you can
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chill the beer, and drink it.
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CONCENTRATION
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Your new alcohol isn't exactly that concentrated; it might have 9% alcohol by
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volume at best. If you want to take advantage of the alcohol content, you can
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concentrate it with varying methods. You may have heard of distillation, which requires
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that you heat the alcohol to a vapor, and recondense it by itself to yield more pure
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alcohol. There are many methods to do this, which I will not cover due to the fact
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that I am aiming for ease. Simply do an internet search for "alcohol distillation" to
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find out how this is done; it's not that hard.
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If you would like an easy way to concentrate your alcohol, though; simply put
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it in the freezer. That's right, putting your jug of alcohol in the freezer will allow
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you to freeze the water, leaving behind a more concentrated form of alcohol. Simply put
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the jug of sugar wine in your freezer for a while, allow a lot of the water to freeze,
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then pour off the liquid, which should be a higher concentration of alcohol. Discard
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the water, of course.
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Now for a practical concern; larger amounts. Due to freezer space, you can't
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throw a bunch of jugs in there at once. I suggest making 1 to 2 gallons of homemade
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alcohol every day for 7 days. Label them for each day that you make them, and stick
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them in your closet as you make them. After about 7 days or so, when the first batch
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is done, simply put it in your freezer for a while and pour off the more concentrated
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alcohol. The following day, do the same thing with the next batch. Once you have done
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all of the batches (7 to 14 gallons), you should be left with *at least* a gallon or
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two of more concentrated alcohol. Take the concentrated alcohol, and put it in the
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freezer one more time in a final attempt to remove some of the water. Pour off the
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alcohol leaving the ice, and you should have a very good amount of some fairly decent
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concentration of drinkable alcohol - maybe upwards of 25-30% alcohol if you have done
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everything right.
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If you would like, at this point you can add flavoring. Simply add any extract
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flavoring that you would like to add. Go to Wal-Mart, or wherever, and buy a small
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thing of rum extract, or whatever you want to add. Adding a bottle of this stuff to
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your alcohol will give it a better taste.
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Do not be confused; you're definitely not going to be making quality alcohol
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using any of method here, but this stuff is drinkable.
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DISTILLATION
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Distillation is a semi-advanced process that is not unique to alcohol. I will
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explain it in as simple terms as I can. Lets talk about water, first. Water boils at
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100degC. When you boil water, what happens? It turns into steam. If you boil water in a
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pot, it creates a steam that goes all over. What if you were to close the top of the
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pot, and attach a tube to it? Then the steam would flow through the tube, right?
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Finally, what if you were to bend the tube, and you were to make it really cold but
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running cold water around it? Bingo! It would cool that steam back down while inside
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the tube, and it would flow out as water. This is called a condenser.
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The same goes for alcohol. When you make alcohol, you get all kinds of things
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out of it. You don't just get ethanol and water; you get all the byproducts, too. But
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lets just act like when you make alcohol, you get three things: Ethanol (drinkable),
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methanol (poisonous), and water. Lets also act like 10% of your mixture is alcohol, and
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the other 90% is water. All you have to do is separate that alcohol from the water; you
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do this through distillation. Heat the alcohol/water mixture, and since alcohol boils
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before water does, it will be the first thing to come through the condenser; therefor
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you collect a higher purity alcohol just by boiling it and routing that alcohol where
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you want it to go. Easy.
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Stills can be built out of anything. I am not going to give you step-by-step
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instructions on how to build one; just a basis for you to build one. First off, you
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need a metal container that you think is large enough for your needs. You will choose
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either a stainless steel, aluminum, or copper container. The requirements for the
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container are as follows: it must be sterdy, it must be capable of accepting heat, it
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must be water tight, it must not be corroded, and it must allow you to seal and alter
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the top of it. The container is simply a sealed pot that has a hole in the top. Easy
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enough.
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Next, you have to build your condenser. I suggest you google condenser designs
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because there are hundreds of them. Refer to the following ASCII art to see how a basic
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condenser works:
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IN OUT
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,-----| |-------------| |-----,
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| Cold Water |
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----------------------------------------
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----------------------------------------
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| Cold water |
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'-----------------------------'
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The tube on the left side, that is where alcohol steam comes in. While in the
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center of this tube, the alcohol steam is cooled from water surrounding the tube. On
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the right side of the tube is where alcohol liquid comes out. This design is tilted at
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about a 45 degree angle to allow gravity to work the alcohol down into it's collection
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container.
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Condensers are most easily built from copper. Go to the local plumbing store,
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and start playing with copper fittings until you come up with a design for a condenser.
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Also, since you are going to have to solder the copper together to get a perfect seal;
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you MUST use SILVER SOLDER only. Do not use any other solder besides plumber's SILVER
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SOLDER. Why? Because all other solder has lead in it, and will poison the alcohol.
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The next step is assembling the still. It will look something similar to the
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ASCII art below:
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O
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| <--Thermometer
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|________
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/| ______ \
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/ / \ \/\========== Water Out
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| | \ \
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|--| / \
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/ \ \ \ <--- Condenser
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/ \ \ \
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/ \ \ \====== Water In
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| | "-||-"
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| Fermented| <---Alcohol Out
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| Mash |
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(__________) <--Stainless Steel or Copper Boiler
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[+][+][+]
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Heat
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[+][+][+]
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You can see that the fermented mash goes into the large container. It is heated
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from the bottom, and then flows into the condenser. The alcohol is collected after the
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condenser.
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Take note, when you are distilling alcohol, you must discard the first 50ml of
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liquid; as this contains methanol. Methanol boils at a lower boiling point than
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ethanol, so it will distill first. This goes for all alcohol; methanol is always
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present no matter what; but it can be easily avoided as long as you simply discard the
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first 50ml!
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Will you go blind? No, just as long as you discard the first 50ml; real simple.
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Even if you didn't discard the first 50ml, you probably wouldn't go blind, you would
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just get a really bad hangover from drinking your high methanol content ethanol. Avoid
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methanol.
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To use your still, simply put in an alcohol mash you made. The recipes above
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will work for this still. If you want to make a vodka; then do the first recipe I gave
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you earlier. Distill it, and you will get a vodka from it.
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This textfile is just a starter. If you are genuinely serious about distilling
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alcohol, I highly suggest googling it, as there are hundreds of books and websites that
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cover distillation in great detail.
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