238 lines
10 KiB
Plaintext
238 lines
10 KiB
Plaintext
*-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-*
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! !
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! Proudly Presents: !
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! The DARK BOX: Multi-Purpose Network Manipulation Unit !
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! !
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*-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-+-=-*
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-=> Introduction <=-
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The Dark Box is the newest device to enter the "colored box" market
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and is guaranteed to rerevoloutionize the art of telecommunications
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fraud. The device's inventor, Cablecast 0perator, became quite bored
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with the old forms of phreaking, having to worry about codes dying,
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or being traced. The unit you are about to build was spawned by the
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need for a more versitle, safe and interesting way to phreak. You
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don't need any special tones or attack dialers, just your good old
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every-day DTMF pushbutton phone.
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The box's basic design allows you to call anywhere on earth (or
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elsewhere for all we care) without fear of being billed or traced.
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But it's uses do not stop there! When hooked up properly, it can be
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used to emulate multi-line bridges, loop lines and direct in-dials.
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It's really quite simple. The device is plugged into two phone
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lines, other than your own, or one end into a phone line and the
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other into another box. When there is an incoming call, the device
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senses this and picks up the phone. Your call is then transferred to
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the other line or onto the loop. When you hang up, the device senses
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this, too, and it hangs up also, waiting for the next caller.
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To illustrate this, whip out your good old analog multimeter and
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hook it up to your phone line. See that nice, juicy voltage on
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there? Now call it on your other line. The voltage will jump and the
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polarity will go all to hell. This version of the Dark Box uses
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an alternating current detector to tell if the phone is ringing
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because sensing voltage is unreliable and not entirely universal. Now
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pick up your second line. There is a momentary blackout on it and
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then the voltage becomes constant. Now hang up the phone you called
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in on. There will be another blackout on your other line ans then
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the voltage will pop back up again. On the box, hangup is detected
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by the line current passing through an optoisolator that is holding
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the relay open. When it is cut off for the split second the blackout
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occurs, the relay is cut off and the phone hangs up.
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NOTE: With the rapid expansion of digital ESS's, the little phone
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company quirks that are essential for the device's operation might
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not be available in your area. Check your line with the meter as
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directed to be sure!
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-=> Trip To Radio Snack <=-
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On your next trip out to your friendly neighborhood Radio Shack, get
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yourself these:
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1:1 Audio Isolation Transformer
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555 IC Timer
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Optoisolator (Transistor Output)
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(2) NPN Transistors (2N3904 or 6 Will Do Nicely)
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(2) 100k 1/4w Resistors
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(2) Normal Diodes
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1k 1/4w Resistor
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10mF Electrolytic Capacitor
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Disc Capacitor (.01mF)
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DPST Relay
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9v Battery or Likewise AC Adapter and Timer
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It'll run you about five or six bucks, unless of course you get a
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five finger discount...It can be mounted on a small IC perfboard, or
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whatever you like depending on how small you want it.
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If you can't display the schematic that goes along with this, we'll
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do it like connect the dots, it'll be fun!!
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+ O P Q
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_________ ________ ___|_____|_____|_____|___
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A -|o |- H I -|o |- N | C |
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B -| 555 |- G J -| OptoIs |- M | O DPDT/DPST |
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C -| ICTimer |- F K -|________|- L | I Relay |
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D -|_________|- E |___L_____________________|
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- R S T
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This is the wiring diagram for X1, the 1:1 Audio Transformer:
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RED --(white)--------O||O--------------(red)-- YEL
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O||O
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GRN --(black)--------O||O-----------(yellow)-- BLK
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They don't have to be paired exactly like that, just remember that
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white goes with black, and red goes with yellow.
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Text coding of the schematic is very simple. If you have ever
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assembled one of those 1,000,000,000,000-in-1 electronics kits from
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Shack, you can do this... I will guide you with TO and THRU. There
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is a difference:
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A ----*---- B A ----- R1 ----- B
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R1
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"A TO R1 TO B" "A THRU R1 TO B"
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Parallel Circuit Series Circuit
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These are the abbreviations for the components:
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RED, GRN, YEL, BLK = Phone line red and green respectively
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Dx(Anode/Cathode) = The Diodes Where x={1,2}
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Qx(Emitter/Base/Collector) = Transistors x={1,2}
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C1(+/-) = Electrolytic Capacitor (observe polarity!)
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C2 = Disc Capacitor
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R1 = 1k Resistor
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Rx = 100k Resistor x={2,3}
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Ya dig it, mon? If this is too complex for you, try and view the
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schematic through Generic Software's CADD, or try to draw your
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own out from the directions below. Sometimes it helps to do this
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in visual terms!
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Ok, let's go to it...
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<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->
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1: GRN thru R3 to Q1(Emitter) to GND
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2: RED thru D1(Anaode) to Q1(Base)
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3: Q1(Collector) to B
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4: +V thru R1 to B
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5: +V to M to D to H to Q2(Collector)
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6: H thru R2 to G to F thru C1(+) to GND
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7: E thru C2 to A to GND
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8: C thru D2(Anode) to Q2(Base) to L
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9: Q2(Emitter) thru COIL to GND
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10: RED to I
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11: J thru X1 to T
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12: GRN to R
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13: BLK thru X1 to Q
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14: YEL to O
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<-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=->
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There. That wasn't too hard now, was it? Now let's test it. A word
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to the wise: Do not substitute batteries or other power supplies in
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place of the telephone line. If you do, then you risk blowing the
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transformer and the optoisolator.
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-=> Testing The Puppy <=-
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Now that you have it built, double check and make sure everything is
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OK before you apply power to it. If everything you have is right,
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there might be some wierd, uncaught error in the file, or you have
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bad parts. Contact us or try again.
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A voltmeter and a logic probe can come in handy here...
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Connect the battery, but not the phone line yet. Your relay should
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not throw. If it does, check the 555 and the transistor triggering
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it.
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If that's ok, short out the emitter and collector on Q1 momentarily.
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The relay should throw for about two or three seconds then shut off.
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If not, check that trigger circuit again.
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Now plug in RED and GRN. If your relay trips, you might have the RED
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and GRN reversed, or Q1 is not wired properly.
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If you're ok, call it on your other line. It should ring once and
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then pick up. If it's busy, perhaps D1 is not right. If it doesn't
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answer the phone, check Q1 to make sure all contacts are right.
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Ok, FINAL TEST! Connect YEL and BLK and call the line that RED and
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GRN are on. It should pick up and you should hear a steady dial tone
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and be able to dial DTMF on it, etc etc etc. There are several
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problems that could arise here. 1) No dial tone means it's either
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not hooked up right, or the transformer is bad. 2) If you only get
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it for about three seconds before it hangs up on you, you are not
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getting complete isolation from the other line. Check the
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transformer. 3) If the dial tone you hear is "bobbled" then you have
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a major voltage spillover, isolate the second line from the rest of
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the circuit.
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If everything checks out, you have just built a DARK BOX!! Now let's
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have fun with it...
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-=> Applications And Operations <=-
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You already have the basic unit constructed. This is sort of a
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Pseudo-Extender or Pseudo-Diverter. Place it on any two phone lines
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(other than your own) and be sure you know the number for the RED-
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GRN pair. Now when you call the line that's hooked up to RED and
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GRN, you get the dial tone from the YEL/BLK pair, and it's just like
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you were at that person's house using THEIR phone! But you're not,
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you could be in Tahiti if you want! This is, basically, how you
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avoid billing of calls.
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If you want to use this box from long distance without having to pay
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for it yourself, you could wire a black box resistor onto the
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RED/GRN pair. It's not your phone line, what do you care?
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For loop lines and cheese boxes, wire two Dark Boxes back to back on
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any two phone lines.
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For a multiple line bridge, you need as many boxes as you want dial-
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ins. Loop all the YEL's and BLK's together respectively and plug the
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RED/GRN's into a hunt group (You know, call 555-0000 and if
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it's busy, you'll be transferred to 555-0001, etc etc), this way,
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hackers can drop in and out at will. Didn't Cap'n Crunch do
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something like this?
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If you want to make credit card calls instead of dialing direct,
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attach the box to two payphones that are next to each other.
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That way, you don't have to freeze your ass off to avoid having
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your phone number put on the guy's card bill. Make sure the
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payphones will accept incoming calls!
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Patch YEL/BLK into an audio amplifier and into the paging system
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at someplace like K-Mart. Imagine the riot you can start by
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paging "INS! Stay where you are!" The xfrmer should push out
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a line level audio, so interfacing to most sound applications
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should be a snap.
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A word about Caller ID. CI has been introduced scince the invention
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of the box. The box can bypass CI to an extent, being that if the box
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calls someone who caller ID's you, they'll get the second phone line
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of the box, and not you. However, if the indialing line for the box
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has CI and you call directly into it and someone happens to be there
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to get it, you could be in serious trouble. A soloution to this would
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be to use the box on a payphone that will accept incoming calls.
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Scince noone gives a fuck who calls a pay phone, chances are it won't
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CI'd. You could also place the box in an area that doesn't have CI,
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whereas in order for CI to work, both the caller and the callee must
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be in service areas.
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Don't be limited by only these suggestions! Be creative and let us
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know how you use it! Make a DID for your school's PABX, or get your
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VICModem to autoanswer! There HUNDREDS of uses for this
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revoloutionary device waiting to be discovered!
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