595 lines
29 KiB
Plaintext
595 lines
29 KiB
Plaintext
##############################################################################
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# #
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# Dial 'I' for Information #
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# Issue #1 #
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# 07/31/93 #
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# Edited by the Phone Phantom [*][0][#] #
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# #
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##############################################################################
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Welcome! First of all, I would like to thank you for downloading this
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magazine. This magazine's purpose is to educate you, the public, about stuff
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people would rather you not know. I would like to focus on anti telephone
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company activities, but I am a little short on fresh valid info right now. One
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thing that this magazine will NOT have is a bunch of recipes for explosives
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and such; I find that kind of stuff EXTREMELY boring, as most of us don't have
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a place to go blowing off pipe bombs. If you would like to submit something
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to the next issue of Dial 'I' for Information, leave a message for me, the
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Phone Phantom, on Electric Dreams. Subscription info in next issue...
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TABLE OF CONTENTS:
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------------------
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1. How to make a potato cannon
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2. List of * codes for the Des Moines tel. system
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3. Let's hack "In Touch"
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4. How to hack answering machines
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5. "Imponderables" by David Feldman
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6. Weekly top 10 things to do to confuse people
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7. Misconceptions
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8. How to brew your own beer!
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************************************
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File #1: How to make a potato cannon
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************************************
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[------------------------------------------------------------]
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[ ]
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[ The Phone Phantom presents.... ]
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[ ]
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[ How to Make a Potato Cannon ]
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[ ]
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[ The first of many informative text philes to come... ]
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[ ]
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[ Be watching for my new beer-making phile, PPBEER.ZIP! ]
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[ It's written for beginner's like myself, people who are ]
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[ "mature" enough to buy cigarettes but not alcohol... ]
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[ ]
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[ ]
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[------------------------------------------------------------]
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DISCLAIMER: This phile is NOT for informational purposes only! I take no
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responsibility for some loser who builds this and doesn't use it for
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illegal and/or anarchial (a word? 'Tis now!) purposes.
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Okay, first I'll tell you what this little thing does -- if you haven't
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guessed it already, it shoots potatoes (actually pieces of them). Using it is
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very simple; you load the potato into the barrell, push it down like you would
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a musket, spray some hair spray into the back of the cannon, screw on the cap,
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and fire away. I can't tell you exactly how far this thing will shoot, but I
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know it would hurt very badly if you were to hit somebody (accidentally, of
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course!). Many of you may have heard of something like this before which looks
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more like a gun and has a button trigger. My experience with this type of gun
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was not exactly fun; the handle takes a lot of work to make and gas grill
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starters simply do not generate a big enough spark to ignite the hair spray
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mixture every time. My model can be built in about 2 hours and for about $25.
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The basic idea is this: you want to have a large explosion chamber for
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the hair spray, but a small-diameter barrell so the air velocity is greater.
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The entire gun should be made of PVC; go to your local hardware store and find
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the PVC aisle. I went to Sutherlands; they had everything that I needed and a
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special rack of scrap PVC sections which are a lot cheaper than buying a 10
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foot pipe. Your explosion chamber should be made of a 1-foot section of 4" PVC.
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You'll need a female adapter for this pipe which accepts a 4" PVC plug. You'll
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also need a reducing coupler; I couldn't find one that reduced the 4" down to
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1 1/2" (barrell), so I had to buy one that reduced the 4" down to 2", then put
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a very small section of 2" PVC into the small end, and then get another
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reducing coupler that reduced 2" down to 1 1/2". You'll need to cement all
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parts together (except the plug; you'll need to open that for every reload),
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so pick up some PVC cement also. The barrell should be about 2 feet of 1 1/2"
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PVC. Sharpen the end of the barrell with a file so it cuts the potatoes easier.
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Oh, I almost forgot: you'll need something to keep the potato piece from
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slipping out of the barrell and into the hair spray chamber. I've found that
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a little piece of axle wire from Hobby Haven works perfectly. Just heat it up
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and then stick it through the 1 1/2" PVC pipe about 1cm up from the bottom
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before you cement it into the reducing coupler. This will keep it in there for
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good. Don't worry, all of this will be easier to understand when you have the
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pieces in front of you, for those of us who don't know what a reducing coupler
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looks like. For the ignitor, go to a camping store like Frontier Outfitting and
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pick up a lantern starter. It's a little contraption that uses a flint to
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generate a big spark; the only drawback is that you have to twist the knob to
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fire the cannon. I know, it's not as fun as pressing a trigger, but it works
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almost every time. Just glue all the PVC together as in the diagram below (or
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use common sense), and then drill a hole in the 4" PVC to accomodate the little
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ignitor. Take off the aluminum piece that doesn't appear to do anything, and
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then mount the rest on the cannon. It's hard to explain how to do this; just
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make sure that the flint part is inside the chamber, the knob is in a
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convenient place, and the chamber is basically airtight. When I mounted my
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ignitor the 4" PVC was too thick for the little threaded bolt on the ignitor,
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so I had to use a 3/4" drill bit and drill PART of the way through the PVC to
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make it thinner right where the nuts were going to screw together. If this
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ignitor thing sounds complicated, don't worry; you'll understand when you see
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it. If you have any questions or improvements, leave me a message on Electric
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Dreams (please??) --Phone Phantom [*][0][#]
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Note: I have found that Rave hair spray works well, the least hold the better.
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Diagram (sort of): (parts shown detached for easier understanding)
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(cement EVERYTHING but screw-on cap)
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(not drawn to scale, is anything anymore?)
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|+++|
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=########4" Screw-on Cap########=
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|= =|
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|= (threaded) =|
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| 4" Female Adapter |
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\ /
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\ /
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| (hair spray goes here) |
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| (about 2-3 seconds, |
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| depends on chamber, |
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| then replace threaded |
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| cap. DO THIS AFTER |
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| LOADING POTATO!!) |
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| About 1 foot of 4" PVC |
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| ignitor *-----------|--+
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| assembly -> !/ |
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| (flick knob ! |
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| QUICKLY!) ! |
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[ ]
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[ 4" to 2" Reducing Coupler ]
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[ ]
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\ /
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\ /
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\ /
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\ /
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\ /
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[ ]
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[ ]
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[ ]
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| very short |
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| sec. of 2" |
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| PVC to join |
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| couplers |
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[ 2" to 1 1/2" ]
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[ reducing ]
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[ coupler ]
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\ /
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[ ]
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[ ]
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[ ]
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axle wire->|---------|
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| 2 feet |
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|of 1 1/2"|
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| PVC for |
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| barrell |
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| with |
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|axle wire|
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| (above) |
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| ^ |
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| ram |
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| potato |
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| down |
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| barrell |
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| to axle |
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| wire |
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taper barrell with | |
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file or grinding -> \ /
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wheel to cut potatoes [*][0][#]
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*******************************************************
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File #2: List of * codes for the Des Moines tel. system
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*******************************************************
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I have included this list because it's about the only bit of quasi
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phreaking info that I have. I compiled this list one night when I had nothing
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better to do, and ended up adding $1 to my parents' phone bill accidentally.
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Code Result
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---- ------------------------------
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*57 Trace last incoming call. After dialing this you will get a recording
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that gives you an 800 number where you can call to deal with the
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harrassing phone call. They will NOT release the phone number to
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you, they'll turn it over to the police if the call was bad enough.
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Just get Caller ID, people. Oh, I almost forgot. This is the thing
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that automatically adds $1 to your phone bill.
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*67 Block your number from being sent to Caller ID receivers. Dial this
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before you make your call. Phreakers, use this every time you make
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a phone call, everyone's getting Caller ID now, and you're very safe
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as long as the victim doesn't trace the call.
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*69 Last Call Return. Dials the last person that called you. You must
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order this feature, but I recently heard a commercial on the radio
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saying that you can try this out for free for a while.
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*70 Disable call waiting. I'm sure most of you know about this already.
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Dial it before making your call.
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*72 I don't know, but it's something in use right now. Help! I think it
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has something to do with call waiting.
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*73 " "
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*74 Says "call cannot be completed as dialed." Probably reserved
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for future use. The rest of these codes are like this. I call this
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the "rubber band recording" because the first sound sounds like a
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plucked rubber band.
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*75 Rubber band message on both of my lines.
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*80 Rubber band on my generic (no features) line, reorder on other.
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*81 Same as above.
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*83 Same as above.
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*86 Same as above.
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*89 Same as above.
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*90 Same as above.
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*91 Same as above.
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*92 Same as above.
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*93 Same as above. [*][0][#]
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*******************************
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File #3: Let's hack "In Touch"!
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*******************************
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Okay, we all know what In Touch is, right? It's that collection of
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recorded messages that you dial late at night when Star Trek isn't on. The
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number is 246-5600; when it answers it will ask you for a 4-digit category
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number. You can find these numbers in the front of your Telecom phone book.
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Here's the problem for all you hackers: When you dial '*' then at least a
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4-digit number, and then '*', you get the message: "Enter category to record."
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Sounds fun, eh? Then I'm guessing you have to enter another number followed
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by the pound (#) key. I always get the message, "Category not found", which
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probably means that I have the first number wrong. The first number is
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probably the account number or password, which could have access to several
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categories (2nd #). Also, if you dial '*' and then at least a 4-digit number,
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and then '#', you get the message, "Enter customer message number to record."
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Sound even more fun? If anyone has any free time or inside information, drop
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me, the Phone Phantom, a line on Electric Dreams or the Bible Board. Thanks.
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[*][0][#]
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***************************************
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File #4: How to hack answering machines
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***************************************
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To tell you the truth folks, there ain't much info in this file. It's
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mostly a call to arms for phreakers who just want to cause a little confusion.
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Most of the stuff here you're going to have to figure out for yourself; I'll
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just tell you how to get in the door. Okay, first you'll need to find a
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machine to hack. Try doctors, lawyers, etc.; people who HAVE to have machines
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or answering services *yuck*. Be careful: ALWAYS use *67, you don't want this
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doctor to have a nice record of your phone number and the times that you
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called when he gets to work in the morning, do you? When the message is play-
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ing, hit '*'. This works 95% of the time on remote control phones. If it
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works, you should hear a beep. If it does not work, try '#' and '0'. If you
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don't get a beep move on to another machine. After you hear the beep it's
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going to want a security code; this is usually 2 digits. Just start dialing
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two digit numbers, like this: "01020304050607080910111213..." The machine may
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hang up on you halfway through; just call back. When you have the right code
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you will hear a longer beep. You're in! This is where you must improvise.
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Every machine is different. One key plays the messages, one deletes them, and
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another one records a new outgoing message! This last option is by far the
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most phun. One time I called up the Iowa Department of Transportation and
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accidentally recorded a new outgoing message. Unfortunately, I was talking at
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the time, and gave out some incriminating information. I spent the rest of
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the night trying to erase it. A few weeks later all the DOT stations must
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have replaced their machines with non-remote types, because I couldn't hack
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any of them anymore. Oops! [*][0][#]
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*****************************************
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File #5: "Imponderables" by David Feldman
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*****************************************
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This file has been written using information from David Feldman's book,
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"Why do Dogs Have Wet Noses?" without permission. I'm sure David won't mind
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as long as you all go out and buy his book if you like these tidbits...
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Q. Why don't magazines put page numbers on every page?
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A. The answer is they'd really like to, but some advertisers expressly tell
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them not to, and they don't mind that much.
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Q. What is the purpose of those orange balls you often see on power lines?
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A. These balls are there to make them visible to airplanes during the winter
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and to scare away birds.
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Q. Why are television sets measured diagonally?
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A. Because it just sounds bigger. (No, really!)
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Q. What is the purpose of the yellow "Violation" flag on parking meters?
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A. Ask anyone this and they might tell you that it's for when your time runs
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out, but that's when the red "Expired" flag pops up. Actually, the yellow
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flag only comes up if the meter is malfunctioning or if you don't turn the
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crank all the way. It is against the law to park beside a meter
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displaying the yellow flag, whether you put money in it or not.
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Q. Why do many brands of asprin not have a safety cap on their 100 count
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bottles?
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A. Because the FDA allows them to manufacture ONE size without the safety
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cap, and the 100 count bottle is the most popular (especially with the
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elderly, who might have trouble opening the bottles anyway).
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Q. What is that piece of tissue paper found in wedding invitations?
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A. The tissue paper was originally used to keep the ink from smearing, but
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with todays methods it is no longer needed.
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Q. Why is there no channel 1 on TV's?
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A. Actually, there used to be, but the FCC gave it back to its original
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users--mobile radios.
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Q. Which came first, the chicken or the egg?
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A. The egg.
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Then the chicken.
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Then the sock.
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Q. What unit of measurement is indicated by VCR counters?
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A. This is purely unique to each machine.
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Q. Why is the cold water faucet on the right side, and hot on the left?
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A. Back before hot running water, the faucet was on the right side because
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most people are right-handed. When hot running water came along, it made
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sense to keep the cold water on the right side.
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Q. How can hair grow after someone dies?
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A. Actually, it can't, but the skin dries out and shrinks, making it appear
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as though the hair has grown.
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Q. How did the heights of light switches become established?
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A. There is some sort of fire barrier in the wall about halfway up, and it's
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easier to put the switch above the barrier.
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Q. Why are weigh stations on highways always closed?
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A. They're open, but for very short, random periods of time to catch truck
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drivers off-gaurd. If they stayed open longer, word would get out quickly
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by CB and the truck drivers would bypass the staions.
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[*][0][#]
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*****************************************************
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File #6: Weekly top 10 things to do to confuse people
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*****************************************************
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10. When someone greets you respond with a totally random response like
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"Yeah, but my dog is at home."
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9. Hang up a sign in your dorm room that says "Do not look directly at this
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poster." When questioned, pretend that it's a sensitive topic and refuse
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to comment.
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8. When you go to bed, make the bed neatly; when you wake, mess it up.
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7. Get a bunch of fake or real human teeth. Put them all in your mouth and
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sit down at your desk in class. After everyone is seated, begin coughing
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loudly and spit the teeth out onto your desk. Offer them to the person
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next to you.
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6. "Forget" to flush the toilet, making sure to leave some teeth in the
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bowl.
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5. Every hour, on the hour, stand up and calmly say "fire" while looking
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blankly straight ahead. Quickly sit back down and act as though nothing
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has happened.
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4. Try to carry on a conversation with an orange. When it doesn't respond,
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begin to smash it with your fist while yelling, "This is for your own
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good, mommy knows best!" After it's good and smushed, pretend to be
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really, really sorry and bandage it up with band-aids while saying, "Gee,
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Mr. Orange, I'm ever so sorry!" Repeat the whole process over and over.
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3. When you go to the drinking fountain put your nose in the water and
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pretend to inhale it.
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2. Open doors for imaginary people.
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1. When at home or in your dorm, tie fishing line onto a belt loop and the
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other end to something like a door knob. When anyone asks you about it
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spin around so that the string winds around your body while repeatedly
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saying, "Big girls don't cry." [*][0][#]
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***********************
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File #7: Misconceptions
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***********************
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This area is for me to correct any dumb things that I've heard lately...
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- The ringing sound that you hear when you call someone is NOT the actual
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ringing. It's called the audible, and it's not even in synch with the actual
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ringing!
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- One beer will make you just as drunk on the ground as it will on an airliner
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at 35,000 feet. Your body doesn't even know it's that high because of the
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pressurization of the airplane.
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- When you hear people referring to "final approach" to the runway, they're
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only correcy if the airplane is lined up with the runway and has no more
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turns to make before landing. You can catch flight attendants on this one
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95% of the time.
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***********************************
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File #8: How to brew your own beer!
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***********************************
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[------------------------------------------------------------]
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[ ]
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[ The Phone Phantom presents.... ]
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[ ]
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[ How to brew your own beer! ]
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[ ]
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[------------------------------------------------------------]
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Okay, here's what you'll need:
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-Bottles. After calling a bunch of bottle manufacturers here in Des Moines,
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one guy told me to buy them from the brewery up in Adel. It's
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called The Old Depot; it also has a nice restaurant, but it's
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expensive. They will sell you used beer bottles for 5 cents each,
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or new ones for 20 cents.
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-Bottle caps. You can get these at the Old Depot also for a penny each, or
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from the place where I'm about to tell you to get your crimper
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for the bottle caps.
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-Bottle capper (or crimper). I got mine at the New City Market; this is where
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you'll probably want to get your ingredients.
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They also have bottle caps and most of the other
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equipment. Their address is 4721 University.
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-A 4-5 gallon pot.
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-Ingredients for your recipe. You can get just about everything at New City
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Market.
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-Racking hoses. Basically siphon hoses. You can get these at New City Market
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or just go to the hardware store and buy some vinyl tubing.
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-A strainer or cheesecloth bag.
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-Brewer's yeast. I believe it comes in 7 gram packets. You'll need one per
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batch, any kind will do. New City Market.
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-2 5-gallon buckets. I suggest one 5-gallon bucket and one glass carboy
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(the jug from the office water cooler). You can get
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both of these at New City Market.
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-An airlock. This is a little plastic device that you put water in and it
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lets the CO2 escape without letting any air in. New City Market.
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-A rubber stopper. New City Market.
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-Irish moss. This stuff helps the yeast settle.
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-Bottle brush. New City Market
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-Bleach.
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Okay, here's the basic process:
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Bring 2-3 gallons of water to a boil and add the malt extract. To make it
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easier to pour out of the can, soak the can in hot water first. Then add the
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first load of hops. The hops that you add at the beginning of the boil is
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called the bittering hops, and the hops that you add at the end is called the
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aromatic hops. If your recipe calls for regular malt also, add it now, too.
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Also pour in the corn sugar, if it's called for. Let this mixture (it's called
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a wort) boil for about a half an hour, and during the last 5 minutes of the
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boil, add a teaspoon of Irish Moss.
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Now you need to strain all the hops and malt out of the wort, so all you have
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is a dark liquid with no crud in it. You can do this however you want. After
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you've strained it, pour the liquid into your 5-gallon glass carboy (or
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plastic bucket, if you've chosen that). Add cold water until the total amount
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of liquid is 5 gallons. The carboy or bucket that you're using now will be
|
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referred to as the Primary Fermentation Vessel, or PFV. Put the PFV in a cool
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place overnight.
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When the liquid in the PFV is cooled to room temperature, sprinkle the yeast
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on top of the mixture, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then stir it in. If
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you're using the glass carboy you'll have to shake the whole thing. Put the
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stopper on the carboy and insert the airlock. Be sure to fill the airlock
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halfway with water. Put the PFV in a cool place to ferment for about a week.
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While you're waiting for the beer to ferment, you'll need to wash and
|
|
sterilize your bottles. Use your bottle brush to scrub out the bottles, hold
|
|
them up to the light to check for scum, and then soak them all in the bathtub
|
|
with bleach and hot water.
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|
|
You'll know when it's done fermenting because that big foamy thing on top of
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|
the beer will get smaller, and the airlock will bubble less often. Now you
|
|
need to siphon the beer off of the crud at the bottom. This is where the
|
|
other 5-gallon bucket comes in. Leave a lot of beer in the PFV if you have
|
|
to, but don't siphon up that stuff! It tastes gross!! Use your mouth to
|
|
start the siphon.
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After you've siphoned out the good beer, immediately "prime" it with about a
|
|
cup of CORN sugar. This will ferment a little more once it's in the bottles,
|
|
creating CO2. Since the CO2 can't escape, it carbonates your beer. After
|
|
you've primed it, put your beer into bottles and seal them with the crimper.
|
|
Put them in a dark place for 2-3 weeks. After this time you can drink it. I
|
|
would pour it into a glass, first, because whenever you brew your own beer you
|
|
are going to have some yeast settled on the bottom of the bottle. There is no
|
|
way around this. If you drink it from the bottle it tastes a little different
|
|
at the bottom.
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Here's a rather unique recipe that I like. Beware: this does not taste like
|
|
American beer! It's good, though. I had several friends who don't even like
|
|
beer tell me that it was good.
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Ingredients:
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|
-6 cups corn sugar.
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|
-1 package of Cascade Leaf Hops. New City Market, in the cooler.
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|
-About 1/3 lb. of Crystal Malt.
|
|
-Pale Ale beermaking kit. It's basically a can of malt extract. There's a
|
|
packet of yeast included!
|
|
|
|
Just make it like I said above, only boil it for 15 minutes instead of 30, add
|
|
all of the hops at once, let it ferment for about 5 days, and be sure to save
|
|
1 cup of the 6 cups of corn sugar for priming.
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|
|
While you're at New City Market, check out their books on brewing. If you're
|
|
really into this stuff you might want to pick one up.
|
|
|
|
Special thanks goes out to Jeff Hunter, SysOp of Temple of the Screaming
|
|
Electron BBS.
|
|
|
|
That's all, folks! If you have any questions drop me a line on Electric
|
|
Dreams or the Bible Board. Happy brewing!!
|
|
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
|
|
Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
|
|
|
|
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
|
|
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
|
|
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
|
|
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
|
|
The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
|
|
The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
|
|
Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
|
|
|
|
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
|
|
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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