212 lines
10 KiB
Plaintext
212 lines
10 KiB
Plaintext
From: tvervaek@col.hp.com (Tom Vervaeke)
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Newsgroups: alt.radio.scanner
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Subject: Re: PRO-37 MOD's
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Date: 14 Dec 1992 16:14:44 GMT
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Message-ID: <1gibtkINNivs@hp-col.col.hp.com>
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Organization: HP Colorado Springs Division
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Lines: 207
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==================================================================
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PRO-37
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This works. I have used this procedure to modify my pro37. One note:
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there is no reason the remove the logic board. If you have skinny wire
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cutters, you can easily get to the correct diode. This will save you
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the trouble of getting the key pad and key lock back together properly.
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Restoring the full 800Mhz coverage of the RS Pro-37 scanner.
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The following notes have been shamelessly plagiarized from Mark Miller's
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excellent instructions on modifying the Pro-34. The two scanners are
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physically so similar that I needed to make only a few minor changes
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in Mark's notes to make them fit the Pro-37.
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--------
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The instructions below are for those that don't like to completely
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dissassemble every new electronic toy they buy just to see how it
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works. Nor is it for the guy that has been building their own equipment
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since the days of the first tube diode. This set of instructions assumes
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a moderate level of skill with a soldering iron, and some simple hand
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tools. It is aimed at those who just want the additional coverage from
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the mods but havn't been building kits for a decade.
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lets just call these ....
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"NOVICE NOTES" FOR PRO-37 MODIFICATIONS
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1. Remove the 4 small phillips screws on the back of the unit
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2. Remove the battery cover and battery holder from the case. You won't
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loose your programming as long as you don't take all day to do
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this.
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3. Remove the two knobs on the top of the case (Volume & Squelch)
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4. The case snaps together at the bottom via two molded "hooks"
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in the back half of the case which fit into two indentations
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in the front half. These can be snapped apart by applying
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the right leverage to bend the hooks away from the indentations
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that they fit into while pulling the case apart. You'll see what
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I mean when you look at it. You need to be a bit careful in
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forcing the two halves of the case shell apart. Once you have
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the snaps at the bottom released, angle up the bottom of the case
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until the battery separation wall is clear of the internal metal
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frame, and slide towards the top of the unit. Place the back half
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of the shell aside.
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5. Now you will see the RF board mounted to the metal support frame. The
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BNC (antenna) conector leads and the volume control power switch leads
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are soldered directly to the board. Carefully desolder these 4 connections.
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7. There will be a wire from the volume control knob to the PC board that
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is plugged in. Remove the plug from the RF board (needle nose pliers work)
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8. There will also be a similar wire (small shielded ) from the squelch control
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to the RF board wich is also plugged in. Remove the plug from the RF board.
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(Again Needle Nose Pliers work good here)
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9. Remove the 4 threaded hex stand-offs from the RF Board (these hold the RF
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board to the internal metal frame AND are where the screws that hold the
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back of the case screw in) Use a nut driver or Needle Nose Pliers.
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10. Now the RF board is mostly free. The only thing holding it in is
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the row of connector pins on its botom side that plug into the logic
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board. You will need to pry this board up gently. Be warned that
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the bottom side of the RF board is just chock full of Very Small
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surface mounted components. So use something non-metalic and smooth
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to do the prying with.
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11. Set the RF board aside.
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12. The Internal Metal support frame is now exposed. there are 3 small phillips
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screws holding the metal frame to the bottom Logic board (actually, these
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screws go through the logic board and into the front half of the case)
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2 of the screws are near the top, and 1 is at the bottom of the metal frame.
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Remove these 3 screws.
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13. There is a small socketed wire that leads from the small power pc board
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on the metal frame that goes under it and is plugged into the Logic
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board. Lift the metal frame up and remove the power plug from the
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PC board. Place the metal frame with the rest of your parts pile.
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14. You have the component side of the Logic board exposed now. There are
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2 small phillips screws at the bottom of the PC board (where the Battery
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compartment WAS) Remove them.
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15. Once you have the the last 2 screws removed the Logic board is free. The
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speaker wires lead from the speaker to the logic board on the bottom side.
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These are soldered in but there is enough play in them to allow you to
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make the mods.
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16. NOTE: The keyboard lock switch is a funky little piece of plastic with
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a sliding stainless metal contactor that is just wedged in between the
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front case and the logic board. Remove both the switch contacts and the
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plastic switch. (best know it now or loose them in the carpet)
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ALSO: don't touch the innards of the keyboard itself, which will now be
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exposed. It appears that the keys make direct contact with pads on the
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circuit board, and you don't want grit and skin oil to be getting in there.
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17. On the component side of the PC board you will see lots of nifty surface
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mounted components, a box-like capacitor (used for maintaining the
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channel freqs while you change the batteries.. and make modifications :)
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near the edge of the PC board you will see a couple of small diodes mounted
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vertically. These will be labeled on the PC board as D12 and D13. You will
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also see places for two other diodes to be soldered in (labeled D11 and
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D14) but nothing is installed in these.
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18. Now carefully clip the lead coming from D13 and bend the
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diode away slightly to make a gap between the resulting two pieces
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of wire. Clip it near the middle to leave plenty of room to resolder,
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in case you ever want to undo the mod.
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You have completed the mod for complete 800mhz band coverage.
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Follow the same steps backwards (18->1)and replace "remove" with "replace"
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and "desolder" with "solder"
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N.B. These instructions are from last night, All the steps are in correct order
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as well as the general information. The diagrams are from memory so components
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may not be in the exact location indicated, but they will be very close.
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LASTLY, Now that you have made the mods, you can use the warranty card to
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light the Bar-B-Q Grill with.
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################################ DIAGRAMS #############################
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BNC Connector RF Board
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__ / / internal metal frame
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|- ============================= /
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-- | \ Logic Board
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|_____________________________| /
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===============================================================
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SIDE VIEW OF RF-BOARD, METAL FRAME, LOGIC BOARD
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---------------------------------
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| L E G E N D
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|---------------------------------
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_____________________________ | X1 BNC lead
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| @ @ | | X2 BNC Shield Lead
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|_ | | X3 Power Switch Lead
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--_X1 | | X4 Power Switch Lead
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---X2 __ | |
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| --1 | |
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| __ | | ( ) Channel Memory Capacitor
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- X3 --2 | | -
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- X4 | | __
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| @ @ | | --1 Plug from Squelch Control
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|____________________________| | __
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| --2 Plug from Volume Contol
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TOP OF RF-BOARD |
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| @ Threaded Stand-off
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| * Phillips Screws
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______________________________ |
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|* | || | | 0 Diode (vertical mounted)
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| |____|| | | . Unoccupied space
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| | | | for diode
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|* | | |
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------------------------------ |
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TOP OF INTERNAL METAL SUPPORT FRAME |
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|_______________________________
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--------------------------------------------------------------
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| ( ) |
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| - |
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| D12 D13 |
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| \ / |
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| .00. *|
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|_____________________________________________________________|
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COMPONENT SIDE OF LOGIC BOARD
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--
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Happiness is being a cynic, That way everything Sucks.
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10-92 Mark S. AG684@PO.CWRU.EDU
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