242 lines
6.8 KiB
Plaintext
242 lines
6.8 KiB
Plaintext
XENOPHOBE PINOUTS (Midway, 1987)
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--------------------------------
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Xenophobe features three boards: CPU, Sounds Good, and a Dual Power Amp.
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These boards use male MTA (Mass-Termination Assembly) connectors in both
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the .156" (large) and .100" (small) sizes. You'll need several in both
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sizes. Power requirements are simple: +5V and +12V are all you need.
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For testing purposes, you can run the 68000 CPU board without the SOUNDS
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GOOD daughterboard. Yes, this means that you can quickly power up the
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game using only +5V, GND, and the video signals. If you hold the TEST
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pin (J2, pin 8) to GND, you can then ground the SERVICE pin (J2, pin 7)
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to cycle through the self-test screens. The practical upshot of all this
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is that having an incomplete board set isn't a show-stopper. You can play
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the game quite nicely (albeit silently) without the sound board, with no
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ill effects.
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68000 CPU BOARD
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---------------
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J1 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
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- The CPU board only requires +5V and GND, but if you want to draw +12V
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from the auxillary power connector, it's probably a good idea to connect
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it here anyways...
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1 - GND
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2 - GND
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3 - +5V
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4 - +5V
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5 - Key
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6 - Reset Out (unused)
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7 - GND
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8 - +12V (unused - see note on J6)
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9 - +5V
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10 - +5V
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11 - GND
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12 - GND
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J2 - Inputs IP00 through IP17 (19 pins, .100")
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- P1 controls, sound status, coin and utility switches
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1 - P1 coin
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2 - P2 coin
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3 - P3 coin
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4 - N/C
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5 - STAT0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 6)
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6 - Tilt
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7 - Service
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8 - Test
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9 - GND
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10 - P1 Up
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11 - P1 Down
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12 - P1 Left
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13 - P1 Right
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14 - Key
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15 - P1 Trigger
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16 - P1 Right Button
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17 - P1 Left Button
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18 - N/C
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19 - GND
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J3 - Inputs IP20-IP27, Outputs OP60-OP67, Coin Meter (23 pins, .100")
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- P2 controls, sound selection, coin meter
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1 - P2 Up
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2 - P2 Down
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3 - P2 Left
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4 - P2 Right
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5 - P2 Trigger
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6 - P2 Right Button
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7 - P2 Left Button
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8 - N/C
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9 - GND
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10 - Sound 0 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 4)
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11 - Sound 1 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 3)
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12 - Sound 2 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 9)
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13 - Sound 3 (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 8)
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14 - Strobe/SIRQ (to SOUNDS GOOD, J1, pin 2)
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15 - Sound Reset (to SOUNDS GOOD, J2, pin 9)
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16 - N/C
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17 - N/C
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18 - GND
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19 - Key
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20 - Meter Return (to GND on power supply)
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21 - Coin Meter
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22 - GND
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23 - GND
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J4 - Inputs IP40-IP47, Outputs OP51-OP57 (16 pin, .100")
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- P3 controls
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1 - P3 Up
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2 - P3 Down
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3 - P3 Left
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4 - P3 Right
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5 - P3 Trigger
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6 - P3 Right Button
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7 - P3 Left Button
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8 - Key
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9 - N/C
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10 - GND
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11 - N/C
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12 - N/C
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13 - N/C
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14 - N/C
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15 - N/C
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16 - N/C
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J5 - Video outputs (9 pins, .100")
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- Video is separate sync only; there is no composite sync output.
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1 - Red
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2 - GND
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3 - Green
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4 - GND
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5 - Blue
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6 - GND
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7 - Key
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8 - Horizontal sync
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9 - Vertical sync
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J6 - Aux Power Input (11 pins, .100")
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- This is not used in the "official" setup, but can be used if necessary.
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For instance, if your power supply doesn't have enough duplicate outputs
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to power up all three boards, you can use J6 to supply the other boards
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with any missing voltages. If you want to use +12V on this connector,
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you'll have to connect the +12V connector on J1.
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1 - GND
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2 - GND
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3 - +5V
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4 - +12V
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5 - Key
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6 - Reset Out (unused)
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7 - Reset Out (unused)
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8 - +12V
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9 - +5V
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10 - GND
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11 - GND
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SOUNDS GOOD BOARD
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-----------------
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J1 - Sound Selection/Status (9 pins, .100")
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1 - Spare (unused)
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2 - Strobe/SIRQ (from CPU, J3, pin 14)
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3 - Sound 1 (from CPU, J3, pin 11)
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4 - Sound 0 (from CPU, J3, pin 10)
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5 - STAT1 (unused)
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6 - STAT0 (from CPU, J2, pin 5)
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7 - Key
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8 - Sound 3 (from CPU, J3, pin 13)
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9 - Sound 2 (from CPU, J3, pin 12)
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J2 - Power Input (12 pins, .156")
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- I'm not sure about the difference between the "A", "E", and "L" grounds;
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I've treated the "A"(udio?) and "L"(ogic?) grounds identically and had
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acceptable results. Your mileage may vary.
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1 - A GND
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2 - A GND
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3 - +5V
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4 - +5V
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5 - +12V
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6 - +12V
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7 - E GND (unused)
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8 - Key
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9 - Sound Reset (from CPU, J3, pin 15)
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10 - Sound Reset
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11 - L GND
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12 - L GND
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J3 - Audio Output (12 pins, .100")
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- Volume pot "A" and "B" signals go to the two "sides" of the pot.
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The "wiper" goes in the "middle".
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1 - Volume pot wiper (to POT)
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2 - Left audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
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3 - Right audio out (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
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4 - A GND (to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
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5 - A GND
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6 - Audio out (unused)
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7 - Audio out (unused)
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8 - A GND
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9 - Key
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10 - Volume pot A (to POT)
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11 - A GND
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12 - Volume pot B (to POT)
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DUAL POWER AMP
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--------------
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This is a small board which amplifies the signals produced by the
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"Sounds Good" board and sends them to the speakers. I got mine from
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an Omega Race board set from 1981. Judging from the age differential,
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it's clear that these are fairly common boards and that they've been
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used in many Midway games over the ages. If you can't find one, you
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can probably build an equivalent amplifier yourself out of spare parts;
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any basic electronics text should tell you what you need to know to do
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it yourself.
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J1 - Audio Input (8 pins, .100")
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1 - N/C
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2 - Left audio
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3 - Left shield (from SOUNDS GOOD, J3, pin 4)
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4 - Key
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5 - GND
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6 - Right audio
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7 - Right shield (unused)
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8 - +12V
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J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
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1 - Right speaker +ve
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2 - Right speaker -ve
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3 - Key
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4 - Left speaker +ve
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5 - N/C
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6 - Left speaker -ve
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DUAL POWER AMP WITH MIXER
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-------------------------
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You can also use a "Dual power amp with mixer" as opposed to the regular
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"Dual power amp" board. This board can handle (and presumably mix) four
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separate inputs as opposed to two. I've never seen one of these boards,
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so again, your mileage may vary...
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J1 - Audio Input (11 pins, .100")
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1 - L2 shield (unused)
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2 - L2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 2)
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3 - L1 audio (unused)
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4 - L1 shield (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 3)
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5 - Key
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6 - GND
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7 - R2 shield (unused)
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8 - R2 audio (corresponds to DUAL POWER AMP, J1, pin 6)
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9 - R1 audio (unused)
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10 - R1 shield (unused)
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11 - +12V
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J2 - Speaker Output (6 pins, .100")
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1 - Right speaker +ve
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2 - Right speaker -ve
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3 - Key
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4 - Left speaker +ve
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5 - N/C
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6 - Left speaker -ve
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