397 lines
18 KiB
Plaintext
397 lines
18 KiB
Plaintext
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(word processor parameters LM=8, RM=75, TM=2, BM=2)
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Taken from KeelyNet BBS (214) 324-3501
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Sponsored by Vangard Sciences
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PO BOX 1031
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Mesquite, TX 75150
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There are ABSOLUTELY NO RESTRICTIONS
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on duplicating, publishing or distributing the
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files on KeelyNet except where noted!
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April 2, 1993
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VAPRCARB.ASC
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This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of Bob Aldrich.
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If you choose to experiment with this device, you assume full
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responsiblity for your actions. KeelyNet offers it not as a project
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but as a "conceptual" approach to increasing gas mileage.
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
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ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
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ÀÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÙ
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³ F ³
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ÚÄÁÄÄÄÁÄ¿___________
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ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ E ³
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³
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³
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ÚÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÄ¿
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Note 1--->³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³ D
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³A <ÄÅÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
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³ ³ ³
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³ ³ ³
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³ ³ ³
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ÀÄÄÄÄÄÂÄÄÄÄÄÙ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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H ³ ³ G
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³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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³ ³
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ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ³ ÚÄÄÄ¿ ³
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³ B ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÁÄÄÄ´ J ÃÄÄÄÄÙ
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ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ C ÀÄÄÄÙ
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A Spherical or dome shaped device. Head of a 5/8"
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Carriage Bolt or equivalent, such as a teaspoon).
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B Gas Tank
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C 3/8 "T" Fitting, Brass compression type
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D Nozzle
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Page 1
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E 3/8 copper tubing (See text)
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F Carburetor (See text for fuel injected vehicles)
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G Gasoline supply line (3/8 or 5/16" tubing)
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H Drain line (1/4" tubing)
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J Fuel Pump
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Note 1: Sealed container approximately 3" Diameter,
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5 " long (About the size of a pint jar)
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PIPE T
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This project requires mechanical ability and knowledge of automobile
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fuel delivery systems. Since raw gasoline is involved with this
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project, safe practices are absolutely required....No Smoking....No
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flames....Use your head !!!
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This design is based on Patent No. 3,227,427 issued 1/4/1966, now
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expired.
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The drawing illustrates a device, according to the inventor,
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achieves a 50 to 100% improvement in gasoline mileage. The inventor
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claimed that he achieved 50 miles per gallon with a full size
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Chevorlet sedan equipped with a 327 cu in V8 motor. He sold the
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patent to Gulf Oil for $54,000 in 1968.
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Before going any further, keep in mind while reading this, that only
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gasoline VAPORS burn in an engine. Anything that has not turned
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into vapor, gets blown out the exhaust pipe and into the catalytic
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converter, where it is burned. That's why the catalytic converter
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get so very hot.
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There are three ways gasoline is vaporized:
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Evaporation, heat and vacuum.
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This device uses engine vacuum to vaporize liquid gasoline that is
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sprayed, blasted or jetted, against the head of a carriage bolt.
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The head of the carriage bolt or other such domed or spherical
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shape, provides a large, extremely thin layer of gasoline for to
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make it easier for the vacuum to "rip" into vapor. Liquid gasoline
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that does not turn into vapor, collects in the bottom of the
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chamber, drains down to a pipe T, connected to the suction side of
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the fuel pump, and re-circulates over and over, until it is turned
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into vapor.
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Make up gasoline, as needed, flows from the fuel tank, normally. A
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vapor lock will not occur. Vapors are sucked out of the chamber,
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via the 3/8 vapor line (E), into a vacuum portion of the carburetor
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(see construction details).
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Construction Details
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The device has been built, using a pint salad dressing jar as the
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container. The inventor indicated that he originally used a large
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Page 2
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Pipe T for his prototype. Until experience is obtained, the glass
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jar is recommended so that the flow rates of the liquid, levels and
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vapor can be observed during experimentation. Using a 1/2 inch,
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glass drill bit, drill a hole in the bottom and sides of the jar.
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Position the holes directly opposite each other and midway on the
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jar.
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Use kerosene as a lubricant for the drill bit, and take your time
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while drilling. Use a light pressure on the drill, and let the
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drill bit do the work. Being extremely careful, install 3/8 inch
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brass compression fittings in the holes drilled in the glass jar.
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Use large diameter fender washers on both sides of the glass for
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reinforcement. The washers are glued on the jar, using a silicone
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glue (Elmer's). The washers will better fit the jar, if the washers
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are bent slightly to conform to the curvature of the glass jar.
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The compression fittings are then installed into the washers and
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jar. Tighten the fittings on the outside of the jar before you
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install them in the jar. The fitting nut on the inside of the jar
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must be tighten very carefully or the jar will crack.
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Use a silicone sealer not affected by gasoline, as a sealer. The
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jar MUST be air tight. It may be necessary to enlarge the holes in
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the washers to provide clearance for the compression fitting. To
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use 1/4" copper tubing in a 3/8" compression fitting, solder a 2
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inch piece of 3/8 tubing on the end of the 1/4 copper tubing, that
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fits into the 3/8" fitting.
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Install a 3/8" compression fitting in the lid of the jar. If the
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jar lid is made of thin material, it may be necessary to use fender
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washers on both sides of the lid as reinforcement.
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The spherical or domed shaped object (A), is mounted so that the jet
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of gasoline sprayed out of the nozzle (D), hits the exact center of
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the dome. A 5/8 " carriage bolt or a stainless steel teaspoon, are
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ideally shaped. The idea here is, to create as large and thin sheet
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of gasoline as possible, so the vacuum will rip it apart.
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However, be careful not to make it so large that raw gas is sucked
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into the vapor supply line to the carburetor. (A teaspoon is
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suggested after seeing the large thin sheet of water that was
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created by holding the spoon beneath a kitchen faucet.)
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The teaspoon can be mounted by bending the handle, so that the wide
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part of the handle can be supported by the nozzle compression
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fitting. Some experimenting may have to be done, to determine the
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optimum position of the spoon. Drill a hole in the handle of the
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teaspoon, to mount the spoon on the supply nozzle, compression
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fitting.
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The vapor supply line to the engine (E), is a 3/8 or 5/16 line,
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connected to the carburetor or to a plate beneath the carburetor or
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in the case of a fuel injected engine, in the main engine air
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intake. Before a connection is made to any of these points, the
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following information must be considered:
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o Ideally, a device such as this, should be usable while idling,
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slow speed while in traffic and high speed cruising. It should
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Page 3
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also provide enough vapors during acceleration. However, this
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will be the most difficult to achieve without supplementary help,
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when using vapor.
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o When accelerating, engine vacuum is low, and will not be enough
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to change the liquid gasoline into vapor. Vacuum will be high
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when idling and decelerating.
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o A vacuum will always be produced, except while idling, when the
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vapor supply tube is placed in the fast moving, engine intake
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air. Vapor will be sucked out of the container exactly the way
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paint is sucked up, in a siphon spray gun.
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o The outlet of the 3/8" pipe that brings in the vapors, must be
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positioned in a fast moving air stream to draw out the vapors.
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The best spot on a carburetor, is directly in the middle of the
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ventura. However this is now occupied by the jets. On a fuel
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injected engine, the vapor line should be placed in the main
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engine air intake.
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On both the carbureted and fuel injected engine, the vapor intake
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tube should be no less than 3/8 inch diameter and the end cut to
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a 45 degree angle. The best of all areas of performance: start
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up, idling and cruising, can be obtained by removing the entire
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jet assembly out of the ventura of the carburetor, and leaving
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the accelerator pump and jet, and the idling jets. Connect fuel
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lines to both the container and the existing carburetor, using a
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compression T fitting.
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Gasoline will be required by the carburetor only, when idling and
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accelerating. Seal the holes left by the removal of the jets,
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with an epoxy sealer, such as JB Weld. Locate and drill a new
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hole for insertion of the vapor supply tube in the exact middle
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of the main ventura. Install a 3/8 inch brass compression
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fitting in the hole drilled into the ventura. This will allow
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the vapor pipe to be moved in and out, for the optimum position.
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Position the 45 degree cut tip, exactly in the middle of the
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ventura.
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If you decide not to modify the carburetor, and use a plate
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beneath the carburetor to bring the vapors into the engine, keep
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in mind that maximum vacuum will occur when idling, and
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decelerating, while the carburetor butterflys are closed. Vacuum
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will drop drastically when accelerating, and performance will
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suffer.
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On the fuel injected engine, locate a spot in the engine air
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intake where the air is moving the fastest. The vapor supply
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tube is installed at that point. On computer controlled, fuel
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injected engines, when engine vacuum is low, the fuel injector
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will provide the raw gasoline for acceleration. This is
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accomplished automatically by the engine computer.
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When vacuum is low, and insufficient vapor is fed into the
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engine, the engine Oxygen sensor will sense the lean fuel
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mixture. The computer turns on the fuel flow to the injectors to
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overcome the lean fuel mixture. When the engine vacuum is again
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high, vapors will be produced. When the Oxygen sensor senses the
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rich mixture as a result of both vapors and the injectors
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Page 4
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providing fuel to the cylinders, the engine computer will reduce
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the fuel flow to the injectors, until the raw gasoline is turned
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completely off.
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o Install a small valve in the 1/4 inch drain line, to make
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adjustments.
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o Locate the container as close to the carburetor or vapor input to
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engine, as possible. Locate the container slightly lower than
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the vapor entrance point on the carburetor or intake manifold of
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fuel injected engines, to reduce the chance of liquid gasoline
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from getting into the engine. Keep the vapor supply line as
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short as possible.
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Turn Up
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Connect the fuel line from the fuel pump, to both the
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carburetor/fuel injectors and the vaporizer container. Install a
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valve in the gasoline supply line to the carburetor. Now for the
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most difficult part:
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Start the engine. Adjust the vapor supply line in and out of
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the carburetor or intake manifold, for maximum vapor
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production.
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The very volatile gasoline vapors, will resemble light gray
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smoke. Adjust the drain line, so that gasoline just covers the
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bottom of the container.
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A small amount will be needed to make maximum vacuum in the
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chamber. The weight of the liquid gasoline in the bottom of the
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vaporizer and the drain line, acts similar to a one way check
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valve. If gasoline begins to build up in the container, open
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the valve accordingly.
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On the carbureted engine, when the engine begins to stumble
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and produce black smoke indicating it is too rich, slowly shut
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off the liquid gasoline flow to carburetor.
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If everything is right, the vapor chamber will be producing
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enough vapors to keep the engine running. Drive the car and
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insure that enough vapors are being generated while the engine
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is running at higher speeds. Decelerate, and insure that raw
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gasoline is not building up in the container faster, than the
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drain line can handle.
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This will require making several adjustments to both the supply
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nozzle and the drain line, before a balance is achieved.
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Hopefully, you now understand the basic principle behind this
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device. Once you have understood the theory and operation of the
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device, and know what adjustments are made, the glass jar can be
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replaced by a metal container, which is considerably safer.
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Additional Information that may be helpful:
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1) Some brands of gasoline will vaporize easier than others.
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2) Summer gasolines have additives included, to restrict
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evaporation. Winter gasolines have little if any, additives.
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Page 5
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3) Evaporation may be enhanced and the effective power of the
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gasoline increased, by installing a charcoal filter on the
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output of the fuel pump. The charcoal removes most of the
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additives, paraffins and varnishes, found in the gasoline.
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4) Use a paper filter on the output of the charcoal filter to
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prevent minute particles of carbon from getting into the
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injector or the carburetor. Only activated charcoal will do.
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Whole house charcoal water filters, will do the job.
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Eventually, the charcoal will become saturated with all of the
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garbage it has removed. Replace when a reduction in performance is
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noticed or 5000 miles.
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A great carburetor cleaner or fuel injector cleaner, can be made by
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adding 1 ounce of Naptha (found at paint stores), to one gallon of
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gas.
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Octane can be boosted by adding 1 ounce of Isopropyl alcohol and 1
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ounce of Methanol, to a gallon of gasoline. Check drug stores and
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paint stores.
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....Later....
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If you have comments or other information relating to such topics
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as this paper covers, please upload to KeelyNet or send to the
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Vangard Sciences address as listed on the first page.
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Thank you for your consideration, interest and support.
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Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson
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Vangard Sciences/KeelyNet
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If we can be of service, you may contact
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Jerry at (214) 324-8741 or Ron at (214) 242-9346
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Page 6
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