199 lines
9.1 KiB
Plaintext
199 lines
9.1 KiB
Plaintext
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(word processor parameters LM=8, RM=75, TM=2, BM=2)
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Taken from KeelyNet BBS (214) 324-3501
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Sponsored by Vangard Sciences
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PO BOX 1031
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Mesquite, TX 75150
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There are ABSOLUTELY NO RESTRICTIONS
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on duplicating, publishing or distributing the
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files on KeelyNet except where noted!
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March 28, 1992
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PCV.ASC
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This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of John Draper.
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PCV Jar
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Here is a device that you can build that will improve your gas
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mileage by at least 25%, and also keep your oil, engine and spark
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plugs cleaner, thus allowing your engine to have a much longer life.
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The device can be made for a total cost of about $12.00, and about
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two hours of labor.
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The device consists of a 1 quart jar, a small V8 fruit juice can or
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similar container, window screen, BBs', hoses, washers and clamps.
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The device is installed in between the PCV valve of your automobile
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engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to.
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The device condenses the oily vapors normally sucked into the
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combustion chamber as part of the pollution control systems, in a
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container of BBs', where the vapors condense around the BBs', and
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drain into the bottom of the jar. If you can find them, use glass
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beads the same size of the BBs'. I have been unable to find any,
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but I know that they are made.
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Blow by gases, containing gasoline vapors, are drawn back into the
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engine for burning. Combustion efficiency is improved as a result
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of the oily vapors collected in the jar, rather than contaminating
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the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber.
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Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with a wide mouth. The wide mouth
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is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs' to fit in the
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jar. Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid,
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locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid.
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Locate and cut another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the
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center of the lid and the outside edge of the jar lid. At this
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point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it. Try to keep
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the holes neat without any excess metal protruding above or below
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the lid surface.
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Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts. I
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use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures,
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and buy it at lamp shops. Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which
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Page 1
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you don't want. This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is
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connected. Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length.
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Cut the end with the pouring hole, out of the small V8 juice can.
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Wash out and dry the can. Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the center of the
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juice can. Using 1/2 inch nuts, and fender washers and silicone
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gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge the holes in the washers to
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fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the
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V8 juice can.
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Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down inside the can.
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Use the fender washers on both side of the juice can to provide
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support. This can will be eventually filled with BBs', and the
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washers are necessary because of the weight.
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Take the 1-1/2 inch length of threaded pipe, 2 nuts and some
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silicone gasket sealer, and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT
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the hole in the very center. Leave 2 or 3 threads of the pipe
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showing on the underside of the jar lid.
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Back to the juice can. Cut a piece of aluminum window screen to
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neatly fit the inside of the juice can, and push it down into the
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juice can, leaving no gaps for the BBs' to roll into the threaded
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pipe. Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'.
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Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull it over the
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end of the juice can, leaving about a 1/2 inch skirt of screen.
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Using a large worm gear type hose clamp, gently tighten the clamp,
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snugging the screen to the outside surface of the juice can. You
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have to be careful here. You want to tighten the clamp just enough
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where the juice can STARTS to deform.
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Install this can full of BBs' in the center hole of the jar lid,
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using washers and nuts. Leave about 1/2 inch of space between the
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top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to
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allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar.
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Install 1/2 inch elbow on both pipes protruding from the top of the
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jar lid. Install a 1-1/2 inch piece of pipe into each elbow.
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Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine
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as follows:
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o From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV
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valve. If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to
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secure the hose.
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o From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch
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section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine.
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MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! ! If not, you will
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know what is meant by a vacuum leak.
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Now for the hardest part:
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You want to locate a spot in the engine compartment to mount a 1
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pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar. Try to locate a place
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where the hoses can be kept as short as possible.
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Page 2
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Cut several holes in the bottom of the coffee can to let any water
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drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have
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driven through. Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between
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the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around.
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To make this assembly blend into the engine compartment, paint the
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jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black. Consider using
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hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses.
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Depending on how far you drive, the jar will probably require
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emptying about once a month. Vehicles which are driven short
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distances and the engine never really gets up to maximum
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temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week.
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The jar will contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that
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takes place in the oil pan. The liquid in the jar contains unburned
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hydrocarbons, water and sludge. The liquid is also mildly acidic,
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as a result of the water vapor and the unburned hydrocarbons,
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combining. Some people have noticed a slight burning sensation, if
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the liquid gets on the skin.
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About every 30,000 miles or so, wash out the BBs' with varsol to
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keep the passage ways open.
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Your engine will stay cleaner and last much longer. Some people
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have claimed they have gone 500,000 miles without a rebuild. Three
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hundred thousand mile claims are common. The most mileage increase
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heard, has been 40%. Twenty five percent is much more common.
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You will not believe the sludge and "gunk" that builds up in the
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jar. I broke an oil pump shaft in an engine with 185,000 miles on
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it, and when the oil pan was pulled, there wasn't any sludge or
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buildup. I installed the jar when the engine had about 72,000 miles
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on it. Additionally, the emission test readings are much lower.
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This is one project where you'll get a return on your money and
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efforts, very quickly.
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*****
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If you have comments or other information relating to such topics
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as this paper covers, please upload to KeelyNet or send to the
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Vangard Sciences address as listed on the first page.
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Thank you for your consideration, interest and support.
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Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson
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Vangard Sciences/KeelyNet
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If we can be of service, you may contact
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Jerry at (214) 324-8741 or Ron at (214) 242-9346
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Page 3
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