265 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
265 lines
14 KiB
Plaintext
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(word processor parameters LM=8, RM=75, TM=2, BM=2)
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Taken from KeelyNet BBS (214) 324-3501
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Sponsored by Vangard Sciences
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PO BOX 1031
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Mesquite, TX 75150
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There are ABSOLUTELY NO RESTRICTIONS
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on duplicating, publishing or distributing the
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files on KeelyNet except where noted!
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May 28, 1993
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DRMLIT.ASC
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This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of Gene Ariani.
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Following is instructions on how to build and use Dream Light
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Goggles. These goggles are intended to be a mechanical aid to Lucid
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Dreaming. They are roughly patterened after Stephen LaBerge's
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"Dreamlight".
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THEORY AND USE: The best way to understand the use of dream light
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goggles is to read Stephen LaBerge's book,
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"Exploring the world of Lucid Dreaming". The
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function of the goggles is based on the use of
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"dreamsigns". A dreamsign is simply something
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within a dream that serves to trigger our
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recognition that we are dreaming (and become
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lucid). If you are working on inducing lucid
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dreams, dreamsigns become important. And the way
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to use dreamsigns is to take notice of common,
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recurring objects or events in your dreams.
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Especially if these objects or events have
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triggered lucidity before.
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For example: The most common dreamsign for me is flying. I have
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been doing this flying for so long, that now, as soon as I find
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myself flying in a dream I almost always immediately recognize that
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I'm dreaming.
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Another dreamsign I discovered by looking back over my lucid dreams
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is "cliffs and high places". I have found that these experiences
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often precede my becoming lucid in a dream. Only a couple nights
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after I realized that cliffs were a dreamsign for me I had a dream
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in which I was climbing up the face of a cliff. I was having
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trouble and thought I might fall. Then suddenly it hit me...
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Climbing a Cliff! I'm dreaming!.
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Once you learn what your common dreamsigns are then you must program
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yourself to recognize that dreamsign as a indication that you're
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dreaming.
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Now the problem with dreamsigns is that we must wait for them to
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happen and then hope that we recognize them when they do. And that
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is the function of the dreamlight. The dreamlight provides a ready-
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made dreamsign that you can program to happen when you choose.
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The dreamlight or "dream goggles" as I call my device, are designed
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Page 1
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to flash a bright red light in your eyes at a predetermined time.
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Unlike LaBerges dreamlight these goggles have no way of determining
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when you are in REM sleep. So we must use a hit and miss technique
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of having them come on when you're dreaming. There are two methods
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of doing this:
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(1) Set the alarm clock to come on about 1-1/2 or 3 hours
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after you think you'll fall asleep, and set the
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sound/light switch to light. Then put on the goggles and
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fall asleep. The reason for 1-1/2 or 3 hours is that we
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normally have 90 minute sleep cycles, and you want the
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lights to come on as you are passing through REM on the
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way _out_ of a sleep cycle.
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The problem with this method is that there's a very good chance that
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you won't be in REM when the lights turn on. Also it can be
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difficult to sleep for a long period of time with the goggles on.
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However this has a hidden benifite in that it interrupts your sleep
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pattern so much that that in itself can bring about a lucid dream,
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(it worked for me).
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(2) Set the "sound" alarm to go on at a time early in the
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morning, at least an hour before you have to get up. When
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the alarm wakes you up reach over and push the snooze
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button, then put on the goggles and switch the alarm to
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"lights". Now you have 9 minutes to fall back asleep. If
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you can fall asleep before the alarm (lights) comes on
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again you will most likely be in a dream. If you aren't
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quite asleep yet, just push snooze again and try again.
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I have been sucessful with this method. However more often than not
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I am so tired when the alarm goes off that I either don't bother to
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mess with the goggles or I put them on and then fall into a deep
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sleep and sleep right through the flashing lights.
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This is not a fool proof method of attaining lucidity in a dream.
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However I believe if you put enough effort into it (more then I
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have), it could prove to be valuable aid.
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Good Luck!
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
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DISCLAIMER - I believe the device constructed in the way I describe
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to be safe, but I'm no electrician. I'm not responsible if it burns
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down your house, or shocks you. If you're going to be taking apart
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electrical appliances you really should know what you're doing
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yourself.
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
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HOW TO BUILD THE DREAM LIGHT GOGGLES
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PARTS: 1. AC powered LED Alarm clock with at least a 9 minute
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snooze function. The clock I use is a Spartus model
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1108, it is small, about 5.5"X3"X2". It cost about
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$9.00. Any small LED clock would probably work as long
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as the voltage to the speaker is not too high. The
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speaker voltage on the Spartus is about 7 volts DC.
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2. Swim eye goggles. Cost about $7.00. The main thing is
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to find a pair that is fairly comfortable. I'm using
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Speedo brand. You can get cheaper ones, but it might be
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Page 2
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worth it to get a pair you can actually sleep with.
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3. Two Radio Shack Red High-Brightness Jumbo Blinking Light-
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Emitting Diodes Catalog No. 276-020 $3.99 ea.
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4. One Low-Current Red LED (Light Emitting Diode) $0.89
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5. About 6 feet of speaker wire.
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6. One toggle switch. This should be a 3 pole, 2 position
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switch, like Radio Shack's Mini DPDT #275-663 $3.59
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
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ASSEMBLY - STEP ONE:
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Using a tapered steel centerpunch, or some other suitable device
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burn a hole in the center of each plastic lens of the swim goggles.
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A tapered punch works well. Use a torch to heat it up, it doesn't
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have to be red hot (if you make it red hot you will take the temper
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out of the punch).
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Then burn a hole in the lens until it is just the right size to
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snugly fit the Jumbo Blinking Diodes. The diodes are tapered and
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you don't want them to fit all the way into the goggles or they
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might touch your eyelids. Once you've done this put the goggles
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aside until you wire up the diodes.
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STEP TWO:
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Making sure the clock is unplugged, unscrew the back and take the
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clock apart. You should be able to get to the flat piezo type
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speaker. Next burn a hole in the body of the clock at the top to
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hold the toggle switch. Make sure you put it in a place where it
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won't touch anything on the inside of the clock.
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STEP THREE
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Cut the positive wire leading from the circuit board of the clock to
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the speaker. Use a voltmeter to tell which one is positive. It's
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not necessarily the red wire. On the clock I used the black wire was
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positive.
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It really doesn't matter if you use the negative instead of the
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positive, except that the diodes are directional, they have a
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positive and negative pole and so will only work in one way. The
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way I'm describing is assuming you are using the positive side.
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Be sure you cut the speaker wire in a place that you can get the
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solder leads to it. Now solder the positive speaker wire you just
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cut coming from the circuit board to the middle pole of the toggle
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switch.
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Now take the small red LED and solder the long lead of the diode
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(Pos. side) to one of the outside poles of the toggle switch. I
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found that there is a residual voltage in the speaker circuit even
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when the alarm is not active, and this is enough to cause the diodes
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in the goggles to emit a small amount of light even when the circuit
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is not active. I tried resisters but I found that putting this red
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LED in the circuit worked the best to prevent this. For this reason
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this LED can be inside the clock box, just make sure it doesn't
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short against anything.
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Page 3
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Next solder one end of one wire in the two wire speaker cable to the
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other lead of the red LED (the short one). Most speaker cable has a
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way to identify one wire from the other. Some have a white line on
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one wire, or one wire may be brass and other silver. It's best to
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use the wire with the marking so that you know that it is the
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positive side. The length of the wire is to determine how far you
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want to be from the clock when you're sleeping. 6ft should be
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plenty.
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Now take the other end of the positive speaker wire and solder it to
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the long (pos) lead of the first Jumbo Blinking LED. Then take a
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short piece of speaker wire and solder it from the short lead of the
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first Jumbo LED to the long lead of the second Jumbo LED. Be sure
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you make this jumper wire the right length so that the two LEDs are
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spaced the proper distance apart to fit in the goggles.
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Next take the goggles end of the other speaker wire (neg. side) and
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solder it to the short lead of the second Jumbo LED. Take the clock
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end of that same wire and splice it into the negitive speaker wire.
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This makes a complete circuit from the positive side of the circuit
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board, through the toggle switch, through the lights in the goggles
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and back to the negative speaker wire leading to the circuit board.
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This means that when the switch closes this circuit the lights will
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come on every time the clock sends an alarm pulse to the speaker.
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Now you must conect the other side of the speaker wire you cut (the
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speaker side) to the other outside pole of the toggle switch. You
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will probably have to solder in a jumper wire to do this. This
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completes the speaker circuit so that when the switch is set to
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speaker the speaker sounds when the alarm turns on. Be sure you
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insulate all your exposed conections.
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Now burn a notch in the back panel of the clock for the goggles wire
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to pass through and put a knot in the wire just inside the box so
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that it can't be pulled out. Now put the clock back together.
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The last thing to do now is to put the Jumbo LEDs into the holes in
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the goggle lenses. Use a black tape to tape them into place and
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block out light into the goggles from outside. Insulate all the
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exposed leads of the LEDs. Run the wire from the LEDs along the
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goggle strap and tape them to the strap so that the wire exit the
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goggles from the strap at the back of the head. Leave enough slack
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to allow for stretching of the strap.
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Well, now your ready. Good luck, and please report back to me if
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you have any success (or problems) with it. I'm always hanging
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around Sec. 13 of the New Age Forum. See you there I hope!
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Jeff Wiley #70750,1544
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If you have comments or other information relating to such topics
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as this paper covers, please upload to KeelyNet or send to the
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Vangard Sciences address as listed on the first page.
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Thank you for your consideration, interest and support.
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Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson
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Vangard Sciences/KeelyNet
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If we can be of service, you may contact
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Jerry at (214) 324-8741 or Ron at (214) 242-9346
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Page 4
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