1852 lines
93 KiB
Plaintext
1852 lines
93 KiB
Plaintext
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HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
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Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work
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with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die
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for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
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right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
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To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
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teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
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cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
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until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
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through very easily.
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Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and
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hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
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circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
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the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
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Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
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smoothly in one long motion.
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To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
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degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
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must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
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Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
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dry completely at room temperatures.
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Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
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container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
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a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled
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out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
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extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
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HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
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Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at
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a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can
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test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is
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removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some
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sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at
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250 degrees.
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It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning
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brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The
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melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up
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to cool and harden.
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It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right.
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These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
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moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
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great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
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Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing
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unpredictable burning times.
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Now you have the basic ingredients to shake the earth like thunder. In
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the next installment or two, I will tell you how to put it all together to do
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just that. You will find that you have baked a very deadly pie. I have twice
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been accused of setting off dynamite in the woods. The explosive power of
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your little grey powder may exceed your expectations, so choose your testing
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ground with care.
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HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB
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Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both
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ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware
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stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a
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good drill bit.
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Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end.
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Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack
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the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want
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the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder
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sitting loose in a very rigid container.
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Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe.
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Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of
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tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two
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inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the
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bomb behind a large rock or tree.
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Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to
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the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might
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cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that
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keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover
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at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a
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small object.
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Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real
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what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly
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through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you.
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This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
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the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps.
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To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill
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a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4
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rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
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powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a
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safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder
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so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous.
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You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something.
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The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe
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pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can
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will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this.
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HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL
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This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume
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Potassium or So dium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of
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this into a pile. Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step
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back. This is also a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest
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a lot of experiments for this.
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ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL
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Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and sulfur. Watch out if you
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experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash. It is not a powerful
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explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined because of its fast
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burning rate.
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--- As I continue from this point some of the ingredients are going to be
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harder to get without going through a chemical supply. I try to avoid this.
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I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific (local to my area) has been
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instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying chemicals in
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certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy Sulfuric acid,
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Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the police would be
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notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the things you
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need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave out
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something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient. I
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am guessing you would prefer it that way.
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HOW TO MAKE AN EXPLOSIVE FROM COMMON MATCHES
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The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads
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of safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but
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has a lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black
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powder is easily detonated by impact.
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This feature moves it up into the high explosives class. To test this, lay a
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paper safety match on a hard flat surface and hit the head sharply with a
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hammer. What do you know! It goes bang! To collect a quantity of this
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explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy several cartons.
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They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches, not the strike
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anywhere kind.
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Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of wire cutters to break it up;
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then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off the loose material. It gets
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easy with practice. You can do this while watching TV and collect enough for
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a bomb without dying of boredom.
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Once you have a good batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of
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black powder. Be careful not to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that
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gets on the end of the pipe. Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A
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science teacher was killed that way.
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Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you
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can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your
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thumb and first finger. With your second finger, press the head firmly
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against a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2
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feet while maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat
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to light the match.
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Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a paper
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match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.
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Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right,
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the match will zip up and hit the ceiling.
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I just remembered the match guns I used to make when I was a kid. These are
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made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of the spoke is a piece that screws
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off. Take it off and screw it on backwards. You now have a piece of stiff
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wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the material from a couple of
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wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem of a match into the hole.
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It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under the tube until it gets
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hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.
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--- For later projects, like a chemical time delay fuse, you will need some
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concentrated sulfuric acid. So, I better tell you how to make it.
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HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID
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Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should
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only cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a
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gallon of dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant
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glass container. The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect.
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Do not use a metal container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out
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doors. Boil the acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white
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fumes, turn off the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now
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concentrated acid into a glass container. The container must have a glass
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stopper or plastic cap -- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the
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acid will quickly absorb moisture from the air and become diluted. Want to
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know how to make a time bomb that doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries?
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Hold on to your acid and follow me into the next installment.
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HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
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To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts
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by volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of the
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mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
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spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
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in the depression and step back.
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It will snap and crackle a few times and then burst into vigorous flames.
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To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a plastic drinking straw. Tamp a
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small piece of cotton in one end. On top of this put about an inch of the
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clorate/sugar mixture.
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Now lightly tamp in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos
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fibers. Secure this with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric
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acid. After a few minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite
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the mixture.
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The time delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying
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how tightly it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react
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with cotton and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the
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side of the straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and
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used to set off the device of your choice.
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Potassium chlorate was very popular with the radical underground. It can
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be used to make a wide variety of explosives and incendiaries, some of them
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extremely dangerous to handle. The radicals lost several people that way.
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But, don't worry. I am not going to try to protect you from yourself. I have
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decided to tell all. I will have more to say about Potassium chlorate, but
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for now, let's look at a couple of interesting electric fuses.
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HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE
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Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it
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down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case
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of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb
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with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will
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heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
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ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE
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Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
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to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and
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then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
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about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good
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size wire to use.
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Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers.
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Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat.
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place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the
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powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
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The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else
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except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
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powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
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on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder.
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The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
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A single flashlight battery will set this off.
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ELECTRIC FUSE # 3
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An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy
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stores. They are sold for setting off model rockets.
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MORE SPONTANIOUS COMBUSTION
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Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical supply so
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they are not my favorites. Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting
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supply.
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METHOD # 1
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Scatter out a few crystals of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little ethyl
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alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.
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METHOD # 2
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Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium nitrate, four
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parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a depression on
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top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay well back from
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this.
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METHOD # 3
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Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup. Drop two
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drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into flames.
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METHOD # 4
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Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of sodium
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peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about right.
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One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.
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METHOD # 5
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Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts concentrated
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nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture.
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When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.
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HOW TO MAKE NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
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Here are some notes I took four years ago on how to make this wild explosive
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that can be detonated by a fly walking on it.
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Five grams iodine, three grams potassium iodide, 20 ml. concentrated
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ammonium hydroxide, filter paper, funnel.
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Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of
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water. Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate
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forms.
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Filter and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers.
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Break the filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several
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hours. On drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode
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violently with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do
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not let any sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate.
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--- I was able to buy concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic
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supply.
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I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.
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A. GUNPOWDER:
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75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
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15% CHARCOAL
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10% SULFUR
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The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a mo
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rter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if
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in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can
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explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate
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oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. carbon dioxide
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and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
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B. AMMONAL:
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Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum
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powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % composition for
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ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts.
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C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
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1. using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well
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for imitating volcanic eruptions. i have given it the name 'mpg volcanite'
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Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + am
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monium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoa
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l + zinc dust + some coloring agent.
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(scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium
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chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).
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PEROXYACETONE
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PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
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SENSITIVE.
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MATERIALS-
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4ML ACETONE
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4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
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4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID
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150MM TEST TUBE
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Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. then add 4 drops
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concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to
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appear. if no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
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celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
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filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To
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ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at
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least a meter away) .
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B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...
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The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
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reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary
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6 pt. ZINC POWDER
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1 pt. SULFUR POWDER
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Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
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There are many other experiments I could have included, but i will save them
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for the next chemist's corner article. upcoming articles will include
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glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with
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household chemicals , etc...
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I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical
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demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some
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experiments.
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...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
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THE CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS, BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
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This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting
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experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work
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depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and
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brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some
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knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments.
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I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this
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information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who
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are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments.
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I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
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VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
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DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
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AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
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TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE SUGAR: SUCROSE
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MILK OF MAGNESIA-MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE TINCTURE OF IODINE- 4% IODINE
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RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK!)
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GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
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This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you
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shouild know what you're doing before you try this...
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Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'do not mix with chlorine bleach',
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and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with ajax or something
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like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
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put ajax in the bottom. then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. since
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the c hlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use
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large amounts of either ajax or ammonia (don't!). for something fun to do
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with chlorine STAY TUNED....
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CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
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Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the
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bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start
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burning...
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GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
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To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react
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with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium,
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etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter
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than air.... l ight a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*.
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Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. this
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involve sseperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric
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current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery (or a DC transformer), two
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test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking
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||
6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of
|
||
water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside
|
||
them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some
|
||
wire going down to the electrodes.
|
||
This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the
|
||
oxygen which will corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon
|
||
electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the
|
||
chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to
|
||
form sodium hydroxide....). therefore, if you can get your hands on some
|
||
sulfuric acid, use it instead. it will not affect the reaction other than
|
||
making the water conduct electricity.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: DO NOT use a transformer that outputs AC current!
|
||
Not only is AC inherently more dangerous than DC, it also produces equal
|
||
amount of Hydrogen and Oxygen at each electrode.
|
||
|
||
HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE
|
||
|
||
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it
|
||
inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted
|
||
with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The
|
||
hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity
|
||
and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not
|
||
react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is
|
||
turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...
|
||
|
||
PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
|
||
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from
|
||
a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off
|
||
oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.
|
||
Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the
|
||
bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. The oxygen will allow things
|
||
to burn better...
|
||
|
||
IODINE
|
||
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To
|
||
seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat
|
||
it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
|
||
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol
|
||
should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine
|
||
crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't
|
||
tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen
|
||
triiodide.
|
||
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
|
||
|
||
CHLOROX-DRAINO By The Mortician Sysop of: The Morgue (201)376-4462
|
||
|
||
I am not too sure on how this works but I am pretty sure that you can make a
|
||
really powerful bomb by taking a can of draino and mixing it with Chlorox. I
|
||
think that these two compounds will spontaniously explode so don't just pour
|
||
them together.
|
||
|
||
I think what you do is get the draino in a cardboard can and then put it
|
||
in a bucket of chlorox and what will happen is either the draino or chlorox
|
||
will eat through the cardboard and they will meet and explode.
|
||
|
||
You might want to experiment with this by rigging it up so you can cause
|
||
the two to combine while you stand a distance a way. I reccomend extreme
|
||
caution with this and wear goggles....
|
||
|
||
Just like pour some chlorox into a pan and then have a can of draino with a
|
||
string tied to it so you can make it spill into the chlorox... Be Careful. I
|
||
don't need a law suit... If you find anything out call The Morgue and leave me
|
||
feedback and/or get me in chat and I will update this file with credit to
|
||
you....
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: All this reaction does is produce heat and gas.
|
||
|
||
I have found that Pool Chlorine tablets with strong household ammonia react
|
||
to produce LOTS of chlorine gas and heat... also mixing the tablets with
|
||
rubbing alcohol produces heat, a different (and highly flammable) gas, and
|
||
possibly some sort of acid (it eats away at just about anything it touches)
|
||
|
||
If you have any more info, send me mail: KADOKEV@IITVAX (Bitnet)
|
||
kadokev@iitvax.iit.edu
|
||
|
||
I'd especially appreciate chemical formulas, or other interesting combinations
|
||
(also a source for the pure chemicals in the tablets and in household ammonia)
|
||
|
||
*End Addendum
|
||
|
||
|
||
HOW TO MAKE DRUGS !
|
||
|
||
IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE OF
|
||
THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY AS AN
|
||
ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.
|
||
|
||
THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL SHOULD
|
||
WORK IF MADE PROPERLY.
|
||
|
||
BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
|
||
|
||
BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.
|
||
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT
|
||
BANANAS ARE LEGAL (FOR NOW)
|
||
|
||
1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
|
||
|
||
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
|
||
|
||
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE
|
||
SCRAPED MATERIAL.
|
||
|
||
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
|
||
TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.
|
||
|
||
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A
|
||
HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE
|
||
ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
|
||
|
||
PEANUTS!
|
||
1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.
|
||
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
|
||
3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING David Letterman ONE NIGHT.
|
||
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.
|
||
|
||
Any fool can grow their own marijuana.... just plant the seeds in a warm,
|
||
sunny and not too public place, water and fertilize as you would any other
|
||
plant, and in a short while you'll have your own homegrown weed. I've heard
|
||
that you can kill mites by soaking some tobacco (buy a pack of plain pipe
|
||
tobacco) in water, and spraying it on the leaves (you don't want to use toxic
|
||
chemicals on something you're going to smoke later)
|
||
|
||
If you're not used to the stuff, cut it with 50% tobacco, and smoke it in
|
||
a filtered pipe or use the mixture to refill a cigarette- the tar content is
|
||
MUCH higher than that of a regular cigarrette.
|
||
|
||
Remember, cultivation is a FEDERAL crime, so if you can do it at home,
|
||
just pick a room with no windows, and put in some grow lights (sodium vapor
|
||
lamps are reputed to be the best- steal a couple streetlights) and a water
|
||
spigot.
|
||
|
||
TRIPWIRES by The Mortician
|
||
|
||
Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board about
|
||
landmines... If you can't then here is the concept.
|
||
|
||
You can use an m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of explosive that
|
||
will light with a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9 volt
|
||
battery, get either a solar igniter (preferably) or some steel wool you can
|
||
create a remote ignition system. What you do it set up a schematic like this.
|
||
|
||
------------------>+ batery
|
||
steel || ->- batery
|
||
wool || /
|
||
:==:--- <--fuse \
|
||
|| /
|
||
---- spst switch--\
|
||
|
||
So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or
|
||
igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.
|
||
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin piece of
|
||
wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat up to light the
|
||
explosive.
|
||
|
||
Now the thing to do is plant your explosive wherever you want it to be,bury
|
||
it and cover the wires. Now take a fishing line (about 20 lb. test) and tie
|
||
one end to a secure object. Have your switch secured to something and make a
|
||
loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such that
|
||
when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.
|
||
|
||
To ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this and
|
||
find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new techniques...
|
||
On my board... (201)376-4462
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91:
|
||
I would suggest you try the clothespin trick, it works much better.
|
||
|
||
|
||
BOOBY TRAP TRIP WIRES...... BY Vlad Tepes (of Chgo C64 fame)
|
||
|
||
Here is a method for constructing boobytraps which I personally invented,
|
||
and which I have found to work better than any other type of release booby
|
||
trap.
|
||
|
||
There are many possible variations on this design, but the basic premise
|
||
remains the same. What you'll need is 3-4 nails each 2 inches long and soft
|
||
enough to bend easily (galvanized iron works well), some wire or fishing line,
|
||
some string or rope, and a really sick mind.
|
||
|
||
Hammer two of the nails into the trunk of a tree (about one inch apart) so
|
||
they form a horizontal line. They should be angled slightly upward, about 30
|
||
degrees.
|
||
|
||
Bend each nail Downward about one inch out from the trunk. Take your
|
||
nefarious device (say a small rock suspended in a tree) and rig a rope or
|
||
string so it comes DOWN towards the two nails. Tie a loop in the string so the
|
||
loop *just* reaches between the two nails, and pass a third nail between the
|
||
two nails with the loop around this nail between the two others (see diagrams)
|
||
|
||
bent nails
|
||
/ || ^ slight upward tension
|
||
# /\ ||
|
||
#/ @ || @ ( @ are the two nails, head on)
|
||
# ------!----()------
|
||
# trip wire
|
||
\ /
|
||
Trunk third nail
|
||
|
||
Now tie one end of the fishing line to the head of the third nail, and the
|
||
other end around another tree or to a nail (in another tree, a root or a
|
||
stump etc).
|
||
|
||
When somebody pulls on the trip wire, the nail will be pulled out and your
|
||
sick creation will be released to do it's damage (try tying it to a firing
|
||
pin). There are several possible variations. More than one trip wire can be
|
||
attached to the same nail, or this device can be used to arm a second trip
|
||
wire. Large wire staples or hook and eye loops can be used to replace the two
|
||
bent nails.
|
||
|
||
A more interesting variation uses a straight piece of metal rod with a
|
||
hole at each end, or with a short wire loop welded to each end. One end is
|
||
attached to the tripwire, the other is attached to a spring.
|
||
||
|
||
*/\/\/\/\/\-===()=======--------------------------------------*
|
||
SPRING BOLT Trip wire
|
||
|
||
With this design the loop will be released if the tripwire is pulled or if
|
||
it is broken. The spring should be under moderate tension and well oiled.
|
||
|
||
RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE
|
||
|
||
INGREDIENTS:
|
||
|
||
GASOLINE - 1 PART OIL - 1 HALF PART STYROFOAM - 1 PART
|
||
|
||
1) MELT STYROFOAM. -REMEMBER NEVER AT ANY TIME LET THE MIXTURE GET TOO HOT.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91
|
||
Acetone will dissolve the styrofoam, and requires no heat- this is an
|
||
ingredient in nail polish remover, or it is available at any good automotive
|
||
supply store in the paint section.
|
||
|
||
A nice trick is to walk into a store, grab a bottle of nail polish remover
|
||
(check the ingredients, it should have acetone in it) then "accidentally"
|
||
pour it into a large stack of (uncoated) styrofoam coolers and wander off.
|
||
*End Addendum
|
||
|
||
2) LET COOL TO A THICK VISCOSITY.
|
||
|
||
3) MIX 3 INGREDIENTS TOGETHER IN FOLLOWING ORDER: FIRST ADD STYROFOAM, THEN
|
||
OIL, THEN GAS.
|
||
|
||
4) MIX IN A DEEP POT - KEEP MIXTURE AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF FIRE! DO THIS STEP
|
||
WITH EXTREME CAUTION.
|
||
|
||
5) LET THE MIXTURE COOL TO A LITTLE BIT WARMER THAN ROOM TEMPERATURE - AROUND
|
||
88 DEGREES FARENHEIT.
|
||
|
||
6) MOLD THE MIXTURE HOW YOU WANT. (DIFFERENT SHAPES WILL MAKE IT MORE OR LESS
|
||
LETHAL).
|
||
|
||
OPTIONAL: YOU CAN ADD NUTS, BOLTS, AND SCREWS WHILE MIXING, ALONG WITH
|
||
GUNPOWDER, 2 M-80'S, OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF EXPLOSIVE TO MAKE IT THE EQUIVILANT
|
||
OF A MOLOTOV COCKTAIL.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: THE FRAGMENTS (NUTS, BOLT, ETC.) ARE DEADLY. THEY WILL PENETRATE A
|
||
BRICK WALL WHEN THE MIXTURE IS DETONATED.
|
||
|
||
DETONATION
|
||
|
||
1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE THROWN, BUT SOMETIMES DETONATION DOES NOT OCCUR.
|
||
|
||
2) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT
|
||
WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT ALSO. IF
|
||
THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: This just burns and smokes, WILL NEVER explode.. don't bother!
|
||
|
||
|
||
Nitroglycerin [heretofore Nitro] is a very powerful high- explosive. I am
|
||
not sure who invented it but he probably didn't-- the first person to make it
|
||
probably blew himself up and his friend got the info off his notes.
|
||
|
||
Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to
|
||
make but also ten times safer to make. If you can't use common sense then
|
||
dont even TRY to make this stuff--a few drops can blow off your hand in the
|
||
right circumstances.
|
||
|
||
To make Nitro:
|
||
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a
|
||
specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid.
|
||
|
||
This is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric
|
||
INTO the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions
|
||
together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures
|
||
for God's sake!!!
|
||
|
||
When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible. Let it trickle down
|
||
the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix thourily and the
|
||
reaction could go to fast--which causes enough heat to ignite the stuff.
|
||
|
||
Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then CARFULLY pour it into 20
|
||
times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly precipitate immediatly. there
|
||
will be twice as much Nitro as you used glycerin and it is easy to separate.
|
||
Mix it with baking soda as soon as you have separated it-- this helps it not
|
||
to go off spontainiously.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: Do NOT let the temperature get above 32 degrees centigrade!!!
|
||
|
||
NOTES: Parts are by weight and he Baume' scale of spicific gravity can be
|
||
found in most chem. books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric acids
|
||
wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold.
|
||
|
||
It is positivly *STUPID* to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time.
|
||
When mixing the stuff wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff
|
||
I had the honor of having it go off by itself (I added too much glycerine at a
|
||
time.)
|
||
I was across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table
|
||
it was on as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only
|
||
25 grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and
|
||
you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
|
||
you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it gets
|
||
old I wouldn't play catch with it.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: Freezing it will make it less sensitive to shock.
|
||
|
||
Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarb. you can make a
|
||
really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing it with
|
||
as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten (but as cool as
|
||
possible, of course) parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard.
|
||
Typically, use the same amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and
|
||
paraffin. This, when wrapped in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin &
|
||
Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite," but that was back in 1896.
|
||
|
||
Improvised Explosives
|
||
Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze Written by: The Lich
|
||
|
||
This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique explosive
|
||
exept that it is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C
|
||
Antifreeze is easier to obtain than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It
|
||
needs to be freed of water before the manufacture and this can be done by
|
||
treating it with calcium chlor- ide until a specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg.
|
||
C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained.
|
||
This can be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking
|
||
with a hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride until the proper
|
||
reading is obtained. The antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium
|
||
chloride from the liquid. This explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that
|
||
it is easier to collidon the IMR smokeless powder into the explosive and that
|
||
the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can be done away with. It is superior in that
|
||
the formation of the collidon is done very rapidly by the nitroethelene
|
||
glycol.
|
||
It's detonation properties are practically the same as the nitro-gelatine.
|
||
Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly flammable and if caught on fire the
|
||
chances are good that the flame will progress to detonation. In this
|
||
explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of 1% sodium carbonate is a good
|
||
idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being present in the final
|
||
explosive. The following is a slightly different formula than nitro-gelatine:
|
||
|
||
Nitro-glycol 75% Guncotton (IMR) 6% Potassium Nitrate 14% Flour 5%
|
||
|
||
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with
|
||
the nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to
|
||
shock as is nitroglycerin.
|
||
The next step is to mix in the baking flour and sodium carbonate. Mix
|
||
these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This
|
||
kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when
|
||
the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use
|
||
this explosive as soon as possible.
|
||
If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry place (0-10 deg. C.). This
|
||
explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These two explosives are very
|
||
powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap or equivelent.
|
||
These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the
|
||
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and
|
||
ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use
|
||
them.
|
||
Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years with
|
||
an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been
|
||
made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
|
||
few mis haps.
|
||
Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the
|
||
stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take a drop of
|
||
nitroglycerin and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an
|
||
anvil.
|
||
Hit this drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I
|
||
mean! This explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any
|
||
doubts DON'T.
|
||
|
||
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Aspirin by: The Lich
|
||
|
||
This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive compounds
|
||
made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and
|
||
absor- bed through the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its
|
||
use due to the fact that over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney
|
||
failure and sometimes death if immediate treatment is not obtained.
|
||
|
||
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin.
|
||
It is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an
|
||
artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar
|
||
but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in
|
||
approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
|
||
|
||
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric
|
||
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified
|
||
aspirin and the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the
|
||
final product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be
|
||
taken to ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric
|
||
acid will form dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin
|
||
and aluminum. These salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive.
|
||
They also will cause the detonation of the picric acid.
|
||
|
||
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but
|
||
buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine
|
||
consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
|
||
powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will
|
||
dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that
|
||
was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount
|
||
than the first extrac- tion. Again filter the remaining powder out of the
|
||
alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex
|
||
dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of
|
||
crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.
|
||
|
||
Take fourty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and
|
||
dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat
|
||
to diss- olve all the crystals. This heating can be done in a common electric
|
||
frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good
|
||
cooking oil.
|
||
|
||
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker,
|
||
that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This
|
||
next step will need to be done with a very good ventilation system (it is a
|
||
good idea to do any chemistry work such as the whole procedure and any
|
||
procedure on this disk with good ventilation or outside). Slowly start adding
|
||
58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to te acid mixture in
|
||
the beaker very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas
|
||
(nitrogen tri- oxide) will be formed and this should be avoided.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
The mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until
|
||
the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the
|
||
beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is
|
||
allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped
|
||
slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow
|
||
crystals will form in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in
|
||
200 ml. of boiling distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then
|
||
the crystals are then filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very,
|
||
very pure trinitrophenol. These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and
|
||
places in an oil bath and heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours.
|
||
This temperature is best maintained and checked with a thermometer.
|
||
|
||
The crystals are then powdered in small quantities to a face powder
|
||
consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed with 10% by weight wax
|
||
and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature and poured into the
|
||
crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together with gloved hands.
|
||
This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The
|
||
detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but
|
||
simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work
|
||
requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for
|
||
shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive
|
||
as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make. Again
|
||
this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great care.
|
||
|
||
AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY CHANCE OF
|
||
INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE
|
||
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE RISK.
|
||
THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT WITH
|
||
ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE MADE
|
||
UP AS NEEDED.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Improvised Explosives Plastique Explosive from Bleach by: The Lich
|
||
|
||
This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explo-
|
||
sives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main explosive
|
||
filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and other
|
||
forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to
|
||
manufacture.
|
||
|
||
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,
|
||
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
|
||
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose ex- plosively
|
||
while in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as
|
||
just an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is
|
||
not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and
|
||
cause the 'dissociation' reaction to take place. This procedure does work and
|
||
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives
|
||
are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation.
|
||
|
||
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite
|
||
solution) obtain a heat source (hot plate etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large
|
||
pyrex or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium
|
||
chloride (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach, place it in
|
||
the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63
|
||
g. potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this
|
||
solution to a boil and boiled until when checked by a hydrometer the reading
|
||
is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it should read full charge).
|
||
|
||
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refrigerator
|
||
until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C.. Filter out the crystals
|
||
that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again until it reads 1.3 on
|
||
the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the crystals that have
|
||
formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.
|
||
|
||
Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and
|
||
mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.
|
||
distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool.
|
||
Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process
|
||
if purifi- cation is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should
|
||
be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
|
||
|
||
Powder these to the consistency of face powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to
|
||
drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vasoline and five parts wax.
|
||
Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline) and pour this liquid on
|
||
90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from the above operation) in a
|
||
plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until immediately
|
||
mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool,
|
||
dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and phosphorous compounds.
|
||
|
||
|
||
This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density (1.3g./cc.)
|
||
and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges guarantee the
|
||
highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited to use in
|
||
shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation velocity. It
|
||
is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the same for the
|
||
sake of charge computation.
|
||
|
||
If the potassium chlorate is bought and not made it is put into the
|
||
manufacture pro- cess in the powdering stages preceding the addition of the
|
||
wax/vaseline mix- ture. This explosive is bristant and powerful. The
|
||
addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect. Detonation
|
||
velocity is 3300 m/sec..
|
||
|
||
|
||
Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Clorinating Compound By the Lich
|
||
|
||
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of
|
||
production of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure
|
||
product than does the plastique explosive from bleach process.
|
||
|
||
In this reaction the H.T.H. (calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water
|
||
and heated with either sodium chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium
|
||
chloride (salt substitute). The latter of these salts is the salt of choice
|
||
due to the easy crystalization of the potassium chlorate.
|
||
|
||
This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete reaction of the
|
||
ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination compound or
|
||
equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach process
|
||
mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation
|
||
reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g.
|
||
H.T.H. and 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough
|
||
boiling water to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky
|
||
substance (calcium chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this
|
||
chalky substance is no longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling
|
||
hot. If potassium chloride was used potassium chlorate will be formed.
|
||
|
||
This potassium chlorate will drop out or crystalize as the clear liquid left
|
||
after filtering cools. These crystals are filtered out when the solution
|
||
reaches room temperature. If the sodium chloride salt was used this clear
|
||
filtrate (clear liquid after filter- ation) will need to have all water
|
||
evaporated. This will leave crystals which should be saved.
|
||
|
||
These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to
|
||
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a
|
||
very fine powder (400 mesh).
|
||
|
||
If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is
|
||
much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the
|
||
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The
|
||
powdered and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with
|
||
vaseline in a plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO
|
||
FRICTION AND SHOCK AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in
|
||
this explosive it will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower
|
||
detonation velocity.
|
||
|
||
|
||
This explosive is composed of the following:
|
||
|
||
potassium/sodium chlorate 90%
|
||
vaseline 10%
|
||
|
||
Simply pour the powder into a plastic baggy and knead in the vaseline
|
||
carefully. this explosive (especially if the Sodium Chlorate variation is
|
||
used) should not be exposed to water or moisture.
|
||
|
||
The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the addition of
|
||
2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition of this
|
||
aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at night which will
|
||
ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of this
|
||
explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900 m/sec.
|
||
for the sodium salt based explosive.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91:
|
||
|
||
It was claimed above that this explosive degrades over time. I would assume
|
||
that this occurs due to the small amount of water present in the vaseline, and
|
||
that a different type of fuel would be better than the vaseline.
|
||
|
||
Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even By George Hayduke
|
||
|
||
subtitled: Fun Things To Do Written by The Ghost
|
||
SPEED DEMON 415/522-3074 24 HOURS
|
||
|
||
This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to
|
||
get back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of
|
||
tips on causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones.
|
||
Ones that don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you
|
||
enjoy. Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and
|
||
phreaking.
|
||
|
||
In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the
|
||
distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and
|
||
Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.
|
||
Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of
|
||
smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.
|
||
If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things
|
||
can happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.
|
||
It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you.
|
||
OR anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty
|
||
hunters just waiting to claim their reward.
|
||
|
||
Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be
|
||
physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for
|
||
anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before the
|
||
normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time
|
||
to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other
|
||
and your loser.
|
||
Run an ad in the local paper with the following message.
|
||
"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay
|
||
$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $
|
||
and print the ad without thinking.
|
||
If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out
|
||
that somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call
|
||
the cops telling them of a real rowdy party going on.
|
||
If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out
|
||
course withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably
|
||
won't check. The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are
|
||
posted. "Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"
|
||
|
||
Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your
|
||
losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will
|
||
follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This
|
||
will work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.
|
||
Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that
|
||
you just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)
|
||
If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For
|
||
bigots, Dial A Black, etc.
|
||
|
||
|
||
If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order
|
||
everything you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during
|
||
dinner hours. Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of
|
||
mustard. Then the next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.
|
||
Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other
|
||
combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.
|
||
Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.
|
||
|
||
Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else.
|
||
|
||
There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone. Call in a bomb
|
||
threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook. Of course,
|
||
do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.
|
||
Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans
|
||
to a device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records. If
|
||
you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.
|
||
If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is
|
||
modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then
|
||
its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"
|
||
Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a
|
||
business. The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start
|
||
screaming.
|
||
Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.
|
||
Then, at night, it glows.
|
||
Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a
|
||
spark plug in a car. They'll never find it.
|
||
If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a
|
||
stamp flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.
|
||
If you dislike a pet hater, here's one. Advertise that you(the loser)
|
||
would like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for each one. Then call the SPCA,
|
||
telling them that the loser wants the animals to conduct black masses and
|
||
pagan rites.
|
||
Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.
|
||
|
||
Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call
|
||
him up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging
|
||
around the yard....
|
||
Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you would
|
||
like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.
|
||
PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,
|
||
look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.
|
||
Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer
|
||
the questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then
|
||
give the losers phone number to call for more info.
|
||
Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from
|
||
cool. (as long as it's not too hot)
|
||
Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key
|
||
words trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun
|
||
|
||
|
||
There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under 2
|
||
topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long as
|
||
your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Sweet-Gas
|
||
This involves taking the gas cap off of you victims car. If it is a locking
|
||
cap break it off. Or you might pry it off. Once you have the gas cap off
|
||
pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now when the start there
|
||
car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so then the car will crap
|
||
out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: This does NOT work- try confectioner's sugar, it might.
|
||
|
||
Sweet-Oil
|
||
In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in their oil spout. if
|
||
you have time you might remover the oil plug first and drain some of the oil
|
||
out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the effects but I am sure
|
||
that I did some damage.
|
||
|
||
Slow Air
|
||
Ok, sneak up the victums car and poke a small hole somewhere in 2 of his/her
|
||
tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is small but there then there
|
||
tire will go flat some where on the road. You could slice the tire so this is
|
||
blows out on the road wih a rasor blade. Cut a long and fairly deep (don't
|
||
cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the rubber back and cut that off. Now
|
||
very soon there tires will go flat or a possible blow out at a high speed if
|
||
your lucky.
|
||
|
||
Vanishing Paint
|
||
Spread a little gas or paint thiner on the victims car and this will make his
|
||
paint run and fade. Vodka will eat the paint off and so will a little 190.
|
||
Eggs work great on paint if they sit there long enough.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Loose Wheel
|
||
Loosen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon fall off. This
|
||
can really fuck some one up if they are cruising when the tire falls off.
|
||
|
||
No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engine, pour some
|
||
sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out
|
||
of the cylinder.
|
||
|
||
Dual Neutral
|
||
This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have there off. (On
|
||
the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now throw some screws, blots, nuts
|
||
and assorted things in there and replace the cover. At this point you could
|
||
chip some of the teeth off the gears.
|
||
|
||
Un-Midaser
|
||
Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts on their exhaust
|
||
so that it hangs low and will fall off soon. This method also works on
|
||
transmissions but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the harder you
|
||
work the more you fuck them over.
|
||
|
||
|
||
A quickie bomb, stolen from MacGyver
|
||
------------------------------------
|
||
Typed, Uploaded, and Translated by
|
||
(_> Shadow Hawk 1 <_)
|
||
\__________________________________/
|
||
|
||
Ok. Heres a really simple bomb that you can make from things you've probably
|
||
got lying around the house... What you ne eed:
|
||
|
||
A bag of fertilizer
|
||
Some Cotton
|
||
Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind)
|
||
Some Newspaper
|
||
|
||
Ok... You fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill
|
||
it up with fertilizer (not too much).. Next, you put cotton on top of the
|
||
fertilizer. Then, pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up
|
||
the newspaper (you can use tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave
|
||
lying around for a couple days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just
|
||
light the edge of the newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh?
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: This is stupid. Starting fluid is DANGEROUS stuff.
|
||
Try it if you like, but I recommend a better detonation technique than
|
||
burning newspaper... Maybe a spark plug?
|
||
|
||
|
||
P.S. I never noticed before, but all the formulas, etc. that the dude on
|
||
macgyver uses are real, (i checked quite a few of em). (c) 1986 The J-Men
|
||
|
||
|
||
How To Make Mercury Fulminate by The Lockpic & The Blitz
|
||
|
||
When employing the use of any high explosive,an individual must also use some
|
||
kind of detonating device.Blasting caps are probably the most popular
|
||
today,since they are very functional and relativly stable.The prime ingrediant
|
||
in most blasting caps and detonating devices in general is mercury
|
||
fulminate.There are several methods for preparing mercury fulminate.
|
||
|
||
1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix is with 35 ml. of nitric acid.
|
||
|
||
2.The mixture is slowly and gentle heated.As soon as the solution bubbles and
|
||
turns green, one knows that the silver mercury is dissolved.
|
||
|
||
3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured,slowly,into a small
|
||
flask of ethyl alcohol.This will result in red fumes.
|
||
|
||
4. After a half hour or so,the red fumes will turn white, indicating that the
|
||
process is nearing its final stage.
|
||
|
||
5. after a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution.
|
||
|
||
6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white
|
||
crystals.These crystals are pure mercury fulminate,but should be washed many
|
||
times, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining undersiable acid.
|
||
|
||
Method No. 2
|
||
|
||
1. Mix one part mercuric oxide with ten parts ammonia solution.When ratios
|
||
are described,they are always done according to weight rather than volume.
|
||
|
||
2. After waiting eight to ten days,one will see that the mercuric oxide has
|
||
reacted with the ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals.
|
||
|
||
3. These crystals must be handled in the same way as the first method
|
||
described, in that they must be washed many times and given several litmus
|
||
paper tests.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Many other fulminates can be made, however most are extremely unstable and
|
||
sensitive to shock.All fulminates including mercury fulminate,are sensitive to
|
||
shock and friction,and in no circumstances should they be handled in a rough
|
||
or careless manner..
|
||
|
||
Call these Commodore X-changes
|
||
|
||
The headquarters (817)430-8239
|
||
T.A.R.G.E.T. (817)295-9228
|
||
Pirates Exchange (214)446-2219
|
||
(C) Hang Ten '86
|
||
|
||
|
||
How to Make Ammonium Nitrate from THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND by: Kurt Saxon
|
||
TYPED BY THE REFLEX
|
||
|
||
Disclaimer:
|
||
I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damage caused by
|
||
information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you
|
||
sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE
|
||
REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution.
|
||
|
||
Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This can
|
||
be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.
|
||
Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is
|
||
roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.
|
||
|
||
The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of
|
||
one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated
|
||
with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find
|
||
another file about that crap.].
|
||
|
||
Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.
|
||
The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade
|
||
can be purified with distilled wood alcohol.
|
||
|
||
Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in
|
||
enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a
|
||
lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the
|
||
impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium
|
||
nitrate.
|
||
|
||
Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice
|
||
can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker
|
||
companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.
|
||
|
||
The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done
|
||
carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate behind.
|
||
|
||
The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the
|
||
solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from
|
||
the alcohol.
|
||
|
||
The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve
|
||
any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the
|
||
solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When
|
||
the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused.
|
||
|
||
The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless
|
||
unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your
|
||
bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold
|
||
will cause blisters.
|
||
|
||
In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it
|
||
must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp or in thte sun. When
|
||
completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.
|
||
|
||
|
||
You got here on just the right day! For a limited time only, we will be
|
||
offering this *BONUS* file to you free with the above file. That's right! Two
|
||
files for the price of one! And only from Omnipotent!
|
||
|
||
So you don't know what to do with your ammonium nitrate once you've made it.
|
||
You're saying to yourself, "Great! Now I have a chemical that is supposed to
|
||
blow things up, but I don't want to destroy anything [ahem?]." Well...
|
||
|
||
LAUGHING GAS
|
||
As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium nitrate
|
||
has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to make
|
||
laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.
|
||
Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of
|
||
inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't
|
||
keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.
|
||
Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is
|
||
because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were
|
||
inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
|
||
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of
|
||
the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag
|
||
under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee!
|
||
To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply
|
||
house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.
|
||
|
||
First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you
|
||
evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy
|
||
brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when
|
||
a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.
|
||
|
||
When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break
|
||
it up and store it in a bottle.
|
||
|
||
A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading
|
||
into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.
|
||
|
||
When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If
|
||
white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.
|
||
|
||
When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize
|
||
it. It's easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing
|
||
reflex doesn't know it. SO: Do not put your head in a plastic bag (duhh...)
|
||
because you will cheerfully choke to death.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA'
|
||
|
||
IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE!
|
||
FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND
|
||
SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.
|
||
NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU METRIC
|
||
USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS
|
||
ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES
|
||
USED.
|
||
|
||
MATERIAL REQUIRED
|
||
large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq.
|
||
flat window screening, 1 ft. sq. heat source
|
||
water, 3 cups alcohol, 5 pints (any kind)
|
||
sulfer, powdered, 1/2 cup (flowers wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
|
||
of sulfer, at a drug store) potassium nitrate, granulatd, 3 cups
|
||
2 buckets, both 2 gallon, one must (saltpeter, at drug stores)
|
||
be heat resistant
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.
|
||
|
||
2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT
|
||
BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL
|
||
INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED.
|
||
|
||
3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND
|
||
STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY,
|
||
AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.
|
||
|
||
4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING
|
||
VIGOROUSLY.
|
||
|
||
5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH
|
||
TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER AND
|
||
SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.
|
||
|
||
6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON
|
||
SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,
|
||
RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.
|
||
|
||
7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2
|
||
INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD
|
||
BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING
|
||
PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW
|
||
READY FOR USE!
|
||
|
||
EXPEDIENT GRENADES The Cheshire Cat
|
||
|
||
There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for
|
||
the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of
|
||
easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is
|
||
reduced dramatically.
|
||
|
||
Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of
|
||
grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but
|
||
produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible,
|
||
you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one
|
||
yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note that this is
|
||
all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone trying any
|
||
of the following for real.
|
||
|
||
The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or
|
||
gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are
|
||
enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!)
|
||
than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type.
|
||
|
||
You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange
|
||
juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a fuse. As for explosives, mercury
|
||
fulminate is extremely good for this sort of thing.
|
||
|
||
You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the black
|
||
powder (if you're desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone.
|
||
The explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight.
|
||
Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive.
|
||
|
||
Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill
|
||
up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice
|
||
can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and
|
||
need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of
|
||
glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled.
|
||
|
||
Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the
|
||
space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is
|
||
relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice
|
||
can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure the juice
|
||
can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect... as long as it doesn't
|
||
interfere with the action of the grenade.
|
||
|
||
Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed.
|
||
You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice
|
||
with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage
|
||
with it.
|
||
|
||
try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 an awesome AE/BBS. Later, The Cheshire Cat
|
||
|
||
|
||
How to Counterfeit Written by The Wave
|
||
|
||
This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before reading this
|
||
article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset
|
||
printing, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who is familiar
|
||
with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made by a
|
||
process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don't
|
||
think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's
|
||
Incredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will
|
||
have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your
|
||
printing skills. Well, let's get started!
|
||
|
||
First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts by
|
||
making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera).
|
||
Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material (
|
||
usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a
|
||
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then
|
||
developed with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of
|
||
course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use
|
||
should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then
|
||
the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you
|
||
should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice,
|
||
but you'll get the hang of it.
|
||
|
||
BTW you can
|
||
pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can **
|
||
BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the morning!).
|
||
First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives of the
|
||
portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and
|
||
letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and, on one of
|
||
the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial numbers).
|
||
Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top of the
|
||
flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal and
|
||
serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because it is
|
||
all one color.
|
||
|
||
Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the
|
||
flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, just shoot 1
|
||
neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old
|
||
serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one. Ok, now you have
|
||
3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2 shades of green (which
|
||
of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates.
|
||
Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These marks must be 2 &
|
||
9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges.
|
||
|
||
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it
|
||
on the plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY!
|
||
Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you
|
||
already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat
|
||
up one mark. Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a
|
||
separate plate). Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each
|
||
plate with an equal space between each bill.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Roll the Presses!
|
||
|
||
The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty damn
|
||
close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use should have
|
||
a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works great -
|
||
that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this paper (cut
|
||
the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure to set the
|
||
air, buckle, and paper thickness right.
|
||
|
||
Start with the black plate (the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it
|
||
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you
|
||
need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix
|
||
the inks for the serial #'s and the back side. You'll need to add some white
|
||
and maybe yellow to the serial # ink. You need to add black to back side.
|
||
Experiment till you get it right. Clean the press and print the other side.
|
||
Now you have the bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with
|
||
one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as
|
||
many different numbers as you want.
|
||
|
||
Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter Now you have a lot
|
||
of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper is pure white. To
|
||
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about
|
||
16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip one of The bills in and
|
||
compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye
|
||
all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make them look used. Wrinkle them,
|
||
rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations! You're rich!
|
||
|
||
Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from
|
||
personal knowledge. Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live
|
||
and Die in L.A. It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of
|
||
showing how to do it. Well, that's all folks!
|
||
|
||
Call the Shadowkeep AE (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC
|
||
|
||
Addendum 4/12/91:
|
||
|
||
I have heard that there are several methods of detecting CONTERFEIT
|
||
money. First, most green ink flouresces under UV light. Second, some money
|
||
verifiers sold use MAGNETIC ink and INFRARED detection to tell if the money
|
||
is real.
|
||
|
||
I do NOT know what the pattern used is, if anybody does, send E-mail.
|
||
|
||
|
||
HOMEMADE GUNS from "The Poor Man's James Bond"
|
||
|
||
PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
|
||
|
||
Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for years
|
||
by juvenile punks. Today's Militants make them just for the hell of it or
|
||
to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is any
|
||
danger of apprehension.
|
||
|
||
They can be used many times but with some, a length of dowel is needed to
|
||
force out the spent shell.
|
||
|
||
There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
|
||
|
||
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to rest
|
||
in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong
|
||
tape.
|
||
|
||
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the trigger
|
||
flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the flap. The
|
||
trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.
|
||
|
||
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe
|
||
with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from passing
|
||
through the pipe.
|
||
|
||
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored through
|
||
it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the nail pass
|
||
through the hole and rest on the primer.
|
||
|
||
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back with
|
||
the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb releases the
|
||
trigger and the thing actually fires.
|
||
|
||
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware store.
|
||
All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
|
||
|
||
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each other.
|
||
For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's copper gas
|
||
line. Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the pressure of the
|
||
firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and pushed into a
|
||
wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed into a length of
|
||
steel pipe with threads and a cap.
|
||
|
||
Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge, even a rifle shell.
|
||
The first size of pipe for a rifle shell accomodates the bullet. The second
|
||
accomodates its wider powder chamber.
|
||
|
||
A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to
|
||
comply with the gun laws, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches long.
|
||
|
||
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol. It naturally has
|
||
a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle butt. Also, a small
|
||
nail is driven half way into each side of the stock about four inches in the
|
||
front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and brought
|
||
around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
|
||
|
||
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it before firing it
|
||
by hand. This is done by first tying the gun to a tree or post, pointed to
|
||
where it will do no damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go
|
||
off several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go. If the barrel
|
||
does not blow up, the gun is (probably) safe to fire by hand.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Astrolite and Sodium Chlorate Explosives By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
|
||
|
||
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book
|
||
'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l
|
||
|
||
Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!
|
||
I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes
|
||
only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
|
||
fucking school to kingdom scum!
|
||
|
||
Astrolite
|
||
|
||
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant
|
||
research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most
|
||
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than
|
||
TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
|
||
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
|
||
|
||
Astrolite G
|
||
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very
|
||
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for
|
||
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual
|
||
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
|
||
easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite
|
||
G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
|
||
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
|
||
|
||
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
|
||
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
|
||
'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that
|
||
the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
|
||
that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
|
||
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
|
||
|
||
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting
|
||
hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
|
||
hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
|
||
catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
|
||
developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be
|
||
careful with.
|
||
|
||
Astrolite A/A-1-5
|
||
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
|
||
hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has
|
||
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
|
||
|
||
Misc. info
|
||
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
|
||
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
|
||
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Sodium Chlorate Formulas
|
||
|
||
Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
|
||
substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
|
||
sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used
|
||
in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.
|
||
|
||
Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
|
||
|
||
65% sodium chlorate, 22% charcoal, 13% sulfur, sprinkle some graphite on top.
|
||
|
||
Rocket Fuel
|
||
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
|
||
|
||
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
|
||
|
||
50% sodium chlorate, 35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' brand),
|
||
10% epoxy resin hardener, 5% sulfur
|
||
|
||
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
|
||
|
||
Incendiary Mixture
|
||
55% aluminum powder (atomized), 45% sodium chlorate, 5% sulfur
|
||
|
||
Impact Mixture
|
||
50% red phosphorus, 50% sodium chlorate
|
||
|
||
Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
|
||
mix- ed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
|
||
|
||
Filler explosive
|
||
85% sodium chlorate, 10% vaseline, 5% aluminum powder
|
||
|
||
Nitromethane formulas
|
||
I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.
|
||
|
||
Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139
|
||
flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f
|
||
|
||
Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
|
||
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,
|
||
fats, etc.
|
||
|
||
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
|
||
|
||
1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
|
||
|
||
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
|
||
|
||
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
|
||
2 parts nitromethane, 5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
|
||
|
||
soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is
|
||
supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-glycerin,
|
||
and has 30% more brilliance.
|
||
|
||
The Firey Explosive Pen Written by Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us
|
||
|
||
Materials Needed Here's a GREAT little trick to play on
|
||
1] One Ball Point `Click` pen your best fiend (no thats not a typo) at
|
||
2] Gun Powder skool, or maybe as a practial joke on a
|
||
3] 8 or 10 match heads friend!
|
||
4] 1 Match stick
|
||
5] a sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")
|
||
|
||
1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the top.
|
||
2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the other little
|
||
parts and the ink fill was.
|
||
3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the clicker.
|
||
4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they are on
|
||
the inside on the sand paper.
|
||
5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the pen where
|
||
the ball point comes out.
|
||
6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The paper is
|
||
to keep the powder from spilling.
|
||
|
||
The Finished pen should look like this:
|
||
|
||
Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper \
|
||
| |
|
||
\ | |
|
||
\ _________________|____________________|________
|
||
<_______________________________|_______________|===
|
||
|
||
HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR: A different way by THE FLYING HERMIT
|
||
|
||
There are times in a man's life when he gets mad at someone. And then there
|
||
are times when he gets REAL mad at someone. These are the times for vengence.
|
||
And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her car. The
|
||
thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for.
|
||
Yes!!! This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is
|
||
parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole
|
||
you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to
|
||
set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction will
|
||
be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory
|
||
installed just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery.
|
||
|
||
Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery:
|
||
|
||
You are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if you
|
||
aren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things.
|
||
Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to
|
||
negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's another
|
||
story), but also a small internal resistance. The resistance inside the
|
||
battery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small,
|
||
it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal operation of the battery. The
|
||
case we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself.
|
||
For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and the
|
||
following holds true:
|
||
12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps
|
||
Amazing!!!!! by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery
|
||
produces 5000 amps of current running through that little bugger. However,
|
||
this current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for
|
||
long, so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large
|
||
force, causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling
|
||
lead. All these goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the
|
||
engine will cause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in
|
||
the sky.
|
||
Great!! now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go up
|
||
with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device. one can go from the
|
||
simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radio
|
||
transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay
|
||
device.
|
||
First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive
|
||
current without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with
|
||
large currents. Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to
|
||
our triuphant vengance. And finally, a small battery to run the relay (the
|
||
small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digital
|
||
timer). Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay,
|
||
and the relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car
|
||
battery with the heavy cable. There you have it!!!!
|
||
|
||
remember, tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officer
|
||
friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned.
|
||
Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly, may
|
||
explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your face,
|
||
making you look like the elephant man. so don't come crying to me when
|
||
something happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you
|
||
if you rub me the wrong way.
|
||
|
||
call the RIPCO bulletin board, 'a hell of a bbs' at (312) 528-5020
|
||
|
||
MERCURY BATTERY BOMB! By Phucked Agent!
|
||
|
||
Materials:
|
||
|
||
1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid), 1 working lamp with on/off switch
|
||
|
||
It is VERY SIMPLE!!! Hurray! Kids under 18 shouldn't considered try this one
|
||
or else they would have mercuric acid on their faces!
|
||
|
||
1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up.
|
||
2. If work, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
|
||
3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
|
||
4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that it is touching
|
||
the Hot-spot contact.
|
||
5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!
|
||
6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
|
||
7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!
|
||
|
||
If your house is on fire (VERY RARE), get that damm fire blower! This stuph will
|
||
NOT destroy your plugs, but maybe the fuse depending how often you do that....
|
||
Best try outside or college dorm... <eof>
|
||
|
||
TRY SKIDD'S LAB BBS 312-631-5256
|
||
|
||
|
||
A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to
|
||
create a loud noise.
|
||
|
||
The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will
|
||
need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a
|
||
piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks,
|
||
it's okay to substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is
|
||
long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.
|
||
|
||
After acquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb.
|
||
The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk
|
||
carton with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk
|
||
carton with lighter fluid.
|
||
|
||
Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a piece of paper
|
||
between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match. Cautiously place the
|
||
lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud
|
||
explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. It would be a good idea
|
||
to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.
|
||
|
||
Be careful when doing this and have fun.
|