2021-04-15 13:31:59 -05:00

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<<The following was posted by Wayne Eckert 72720,131 in response to a question
which I ( Sean Flynn 76665,3573 ) posted to this forum in early 1991.>>
Safes come in three flavors, burglary, fire and combination burglary and
fire. They also install two ways, above ground and below ground. The below
ground safes are he** to install and usually have a small capacity, so I will
limit this information the above ground type.
Burglary resistant safes have an outer wall of steel plate sometimes
hardened to complicate drilling and usually a 1/4 thick or more. On the door
and frame, hardened steel plates protect the lock and the bolt mechanism. The
inner wall is of similar construction to the outer wall. The frame (the part
the bolts and pins go into) will be solid bar often hardened. The liner (the
part between the walls) varies depending on the manufacturer. Some use a
material similar to concrete with reinforcing bars. Others use drill rods,
ball bearings, hardened plates or a combination of all the above. The liner
may also contain wiring for connection to an alarm. The goal is to make the
safe resistant to drilling and/or torching. The locking mechanism(s) will
include a relocking device. That way ifsomeone tampers with the combination
lock, the relockkicks out and locks up the bolt mechanism. Burglary safes are
rated by Underwriters Laboratories as to being tool or torch or tool and
torch resistant. This rating reflects how long it takes one of their
professionals to open a certain size hole in the safe. Burglary safes are very
heavy for their size and expensive.
Fire safes are constructed of sheet metal, the frame may be solid or sheet
metal. The liner is a material similar to plaster, it retains a certain amount
of moisture that's released when the safe is exposed to fire the idea is to
keep the interior below the burning point of paper. Fire safes are rated by
U.L. by the number of hours they can withstand a fire and keep the interior
below a certain temperature. Fire safes are lighter and cost less than the
burglary resistant safes.
Which to use.
If the weight and the price of a burglary resistant safe is not a
problem,they are the best for storing guns or anything else of value. It's
your decision. I use a fire safe and consider it enough for storing my guns.
Apartment dwellers and others who don't live on the ground floor may find a
fire safe is the only option they have. A burglary resistantsafe large enough
to hold rifles, may exceed the weight capacity of their flooring. Keep in mind
if your safe was to drop in on your neighbors uninvited, it may cause themto
become upset. As for gun safes, some of the ones I have seen at gun shows are
nothing more fire safes. I'm not saying there's no good ones, but quite often
a person can go out and pick up a good used safe for a lot less money.
What to look for.
Weight, the heavier the safe the harder it is to steal. If it has wheels
remove, them when you get it where you need it. If the safe is light enough to
be carried by two people or less bolt it down or build it in, preferably with
tamper resistant hardware, If you build it in make sure it can not be rocked
or moved around otherwise you may find it used as a battering ram. If you bolt
your safe to the floor or a wall don't allow enough clearance that someone can
get a pry bar in and pull out the anchors or the entire safe. Be sure to use
the right anchors for the material you plan on mounting it to. The locking
mechanism. It should have at least two bolts opposite the hinge that extend a
minium of two inches into the frame. The bolts should not be centered on the
locking mechanism. For example if the lock is halfway from top to bottom on
the door. The bolts should be one third and two thirds down from the top this
helps to prevent drilling and punching back the lock. There should be bolts or
pins on the hinge side, this protects the safe if someone cuts or punches the
hinges. There also should be pins that extend from the door into the frame of
the safe towards the rear of the safe, this helps to prevent someone from
spreading the frame away from the door and releasing the bolts. The bolts and
the lock should be protected by hardened inserts.The safe should have a U.L.
listed lock with a relocking device. The safe it self should be U.L. listed as
to it's type and rating.
If your storing guns in a safe and find moisture to be a problem I suggest
using more oil or some other rust preventative. I have seen fire safes where
people have installed heating rods to reduce moisture inside the safe. Two
problems, one the rods dry out the liner reducing the fire rating and two a
hole must be drilled to feed the wire through. Unless the hole is filled with
an approved firestop compound surrounding the wire, the fire rating will be
reduced or lost completely.
Finally remember no safe can keep someone out, it can only slowthem down.
If you have an alarm system, be sure to have your safe connected to it. Make
sure the installer uses a contact that is U.L. listed for safe protection, all
too often installers use regular surface contacts, installed on the outside
thy are easily compromised. To install one on the inside requires drilling the
safe, with all the problems associated with installing heat rods. If you don't
have an alarm consider installing a basic one, starting with the safe and
later expanding it to the entire premiss and connecting it to a monitoring
center. Well that's about it, if you have any questions let me know.
Wayne