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THE TERRORIST ENCYCLOPEDIA V1.02
A publication from The Phyco Department
By METAMORPHOSIS
Special greetings to all
the people whose work I
have used.
Table of Contents:
1 CHEMICALS
1.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
1.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
1.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
1.31 Nitric Acid
1.32 Sulfuric Acid
1.33 Ammonium Nitrate
2 EXPLOSIVES
2.1 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.11 Black Powder
2.12 Pyrodex
2.13 Rocket Engine Powder
2.14 Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.15 Flash Powder
2.16 Ammonium Nitrate
2.2 EXPLOSIVE RECIPIES
2.21 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
2.211 Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
2.212 Mercury Fulminate
2.213 Nitroglycerine
2.214 Picrates
2.22 LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
2.221 Black Powder
2.2211 Black Powder:Grandpas Recipe
2.222 Nitrocellulose
2.223 Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
2.224 Perchlorates
2.225 'Red or White powder' propellant
2.226 Acetone Peroxide Explosive
2.23 HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
2.231 R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
2.232 Ammonium Nitrate
2.233 ANFOS
2.234 T.N.T.
2.2341 T.N.T. II
2.235 Potassium Chlorate
2.236 Dynamite
2.237 Nitrostarch Explosives
2.238 Picric Acid
2.239 Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
2.2391 Nitrogen Trichloride
2.2392 Lead Azide
2.2393 Astrolite
2.24 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
2.241 Thermite
2.242 Molotov Cocktails
2.243 Chemical Fire Bottle
2.244 Bottled Gas Explosives
2.3 USING EXPLOSIVES
2.31 SAFETY
2.32 IGNITION DEVICES
2.321 Fuse Ignition
2.3211 Blackmatch Fuse
2.322 Impact Ignition
2.323 Electrical Ignition
2.324 Electro - Mechanical Ignition
2.325 Mercury Switches
2.326 Tripwire Switches
2.327 Radio Control Detonators
2.328 Mini-Compound Detonator's
2.33 DELAYS
2.331 Fuse Delays
2.332 Timer Delays
2.333 Chemical Delays
2.34 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
2.341 Paper Containers
2.342 Metal Containers
2.343 Glass Containers
2.344 Plastic Containers
2.35 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
2.351 Shaped Charges
2.352 Tube Explosives
2.353 Atomized Particle Explosions
2.354 Lightbulb Bombs
2.355 Book Bombs
2.356 Phone Bombs
3 WEAPONS
3.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
3.11 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
3.111 Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
3.112 Blowgun Ammunition
3.113 Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
3.114 Portable Grenade Launcher
3.12 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
3.121 Handgun Ammunition
3.122 Shotguns
3.13 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
3.131 .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
3.132 .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
3.2 IMPROVISED WEAPONS
3.21 BOMBS
3.211 Expedient Grenades
3.212 Milk Carton Bomb
3.213 Carbide Bomb
3.214 Soft Drink Can Bomb
3.215 How to Make a Pipe Bomb
3.216 Miniature Claymore Mine
3.22 GUNS
3.221 How to make a Ice Gun
4 ROCKETS, CANNONS & LAUNCHERS
4.1 ROCKETS
4.11 Basic Rocket-Bomb
4.12 Long Range Rocket-Bomb
4.13 Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
4.2 CANNONS
4.21 Basic Pipe Cannon
4.22 Rocket-Firing Cannon
4.23 Tennis Ball Cannons
5 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
5.1 SMOKE BOMBS
5.11 Simple Smoke/stink Bomb
5.12 Simple Smoke Bomb
5.13 Smoke Smoke Smoke....
5.2 Colored Flames
5.3 Tear Gas
5.31 Laughing Gas
5.4 FIREWORKS
5.41 Firecrackers
5.42 Skyrockets
5.43 Roman Candles
6 USEFUL CHEMISTRY
6.1 POISONS
6.11 List of Poisons
6.2 DRUGS
6.21 Banandine
6.22 Peanuts
6.23 Marijuana
7 USEFUL TECHNIQUES
7.1 LOCKPICKING
7.11 Picking Locks The Easy Way
7.12 Picking Combination Locks
7.13 How to Pick MASTER Locks
7.2 HOW TO CONTERFEIT
8 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
9 USEFUL INFORMATION
9.1 Fun with Alarms
1.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the labs,
and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter lab
buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and most
of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress
shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone asks what
such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the
polymer chemistry lab, or`some other chemistrymrelated department other than
the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs and
departments in a building are by calling the university. There are, of course
other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as placing a piece of
cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back exit. Then, all one
needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before this is done,
terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a lab, even if
there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in
the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never know what
happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob
at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is
done. This is advisable since the would- be thief should know when and if the
campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of these
methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a rule, college
campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another person in the
building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an odd hour.
1.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and
drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores, nitrate
fertilizers medical supply stores
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
poppers (like CO2 ctgs.) Head shops, The Alley
Belmont/Clark, Chgo
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores,
bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores
Iodine disinfectant (tinture) Pharmacy, OSCO
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
(VERY impure) for cutting torches
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be at least
95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may
prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine
and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear ammonia should be
used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may be
hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and other
less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which are
available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should
be kept in the thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a
good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually stolen
by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later section. A
desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline form
that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals. To obtain the pure
form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's prescription, but this can be
expensive. Once again, theft is the means that terrorists result to.
1.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
1.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials: Equipment:
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins`to come out`of the end of the`retort. The liquid that forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This can
result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get away
from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the sulfur
and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to
dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of boiling water. Filter
the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel into a jar until the
liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in water, and so when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate,
potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
1.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car
battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of
a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably
be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.
1.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive.
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in an ice
bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask and running away,
ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have stopped reacting, one
would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place until all of the water
and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated. There would be a fine
powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight
container, because of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals
formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the
remaining water.
2 EXPLOSIVES
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original
piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air
are displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed
greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains
the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms:
high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and
primers, which may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order
explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate
approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In
a high explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the
shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to
produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of
high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as
gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and
hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm;
they usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in
unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are
good examples of low order explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that
they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are
confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a
shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to
decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are
also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
2.1 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a
pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in order
to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non- explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example, is
used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the
smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.11 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before, the
smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a
confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is desirable.
The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual
bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are
listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
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F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has more
surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger grades
also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of black
powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected by the
grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer grade of
powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be ignited
accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb
moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon
and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would apply
pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes or
circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one
wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to
fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since
anyone can own black powder firearms in America.
2.12 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder,
and it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will not
be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to
absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and
dried.
2.13 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by a
fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
length- wise, and unwrapping`it like a paper towel roll. When this is done,
the grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed.
This is usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on
the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a
plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This
should be done to all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be
crushed like black powder. Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from
1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the
more expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per
package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful item sold in
stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is, or can be cannibalized
for their explosive powder.
2.14 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared
to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both
hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore, the
grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants is not necessary
for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any idiot can buy it,
since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S.
2.15 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture`of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It`is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It
is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.16 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as a
commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitro-
glycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-
Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist
of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the ammonium
nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag,
remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed,
airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb
water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.2 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS
TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual could
conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here are usually
scaled-down industrial procedures.
2.21 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed here,
only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.
2.211 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed,
or heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple
iodine gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate
surface that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of
the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is
corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on
whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs,
and it settles to the ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine
leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless they are
immediately and vigorously washed off. While such a compound would have
little use to a serious terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging
property. Or, a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a
distraction, an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten
almost anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a
rather loud explosion.
Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
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iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every
basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a
semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
the cone into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of about
a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be thrown
away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which gives
off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One possible way
to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight containers. To use
them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where they will be
stepped on or crushed.
2.212 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it of
infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of the
fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would probably
use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
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mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating that
the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml of the
distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much excess
acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it touches the
wet crystals
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away from
any explosive or flammable material.
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
2.213 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not the
most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by
the all- to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it
is converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about a
spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough ice bath container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of
the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add
the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two
acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a
good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the
mixed acids and glycerine meet.
DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF
THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!!
The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature will
immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to make any
explosive in small quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of nitration,
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution in
the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-
water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is far
away from anything living, or from anything of any value. Nitroglycerine can
explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
2.214 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid
with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating
the water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or
produce it, and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of
a mid range molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is
impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator for any type of high
explosive.
2.22 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise wise store
owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his own low-order
explosives.
2.221 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too
hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never
store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate
static electricity.
2.2211 BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE TEXT BY, EL PIRATA'
IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT CHOICE!
FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE AND
SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.
NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU METRIC
USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF INGREDIENTS
ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL QUANTITIES
USED.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
large wooden stick cloth, 2 ft. sq.
flat window screening, 1 ft. sq. heat source
water, 3 cups alcohol, 5 pints (any kind)
sulfer, powdered, 1/2 cup (flowers wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
of sulfer, at a drug store) potassium nitrate, granulatd, 3 cups
2 buckets, both 2 gallon, one must (saltpeter, at drug stores)
be heat resistant
PROCEDURE:
1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.
2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT
BUCKET. ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL
INGREDIENTS ARE DISSOLVED.
3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE AND
STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.
CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY IS DRY,
AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.
4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING
VIGOROUSLY.
5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH CLOTH
TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK POWDER AND
SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.
6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP POWDER ON
SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.
NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,
RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.
7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER ABOUT 1/2
INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD
BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING
PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.
CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER IS NOW
READY FOR USE!
2.222 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this 10
cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water to
wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
Addendum 4/12/91... true experience From andrew at cmu.edu (internet)
> I used to make nitrocellulose, though. It was not guncotton grade, because I
>didn't have oleum (H2SO4 with dissolved SO3); nevertheless it worked. At
>first I got my H2SO4 from a little shop in downtown Philadelphia, which sold
>soda-acid fire extinguisher refills. Not only was the acid concentrated,
>cheap and plentiful, it came with enough carbonate to clean up. I'd add KNO3
>and a little water (OK, I'd add the acid to the water - but there was so
>little water, what was added to what made little difference. It spattered
>concentrated H2SO4 either way). Later on, when I could purchase the acids, I
>believe I used 3 parts H2SO4 to 1 part HNO3. For cotton, I'd use cotton wool
>or cotton cloth.
>
>Runaway nitration was commonplace, but it is usually not so disasterous with
>nitrocellulose as it is with nitroglycerine. For some reason, I tried washing
>the cotton cloth in a solution of lye, and rinsing it well in distilled
>water. I let the cloth dry and then nitrated it. (Did I read this somewhere?)
>When that product was nitrated, I never got a runaway reaction. BTW, water
>quenched the runaway reaction of cellulose.
>
>The product was washed thoroughly and allowed to dry. It dissolved (or turned
>into mush) in acetone. It dissolved in alcohol/ether.
>
>Warnings:
>
>All usual warnings regarding strong acids apply. H2SO4 likes to spatter. When
>it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue - often painfully. It dissolves all
>manner of clothing. Nitric also destroys skin, turning it bright yellow in
>the process. Nitric is an oxidant - it can start fires. Both agents will
>happily blind you if you get them in your eyes. Other warnings also apply.
>Not for the novice.
>
> Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage. The decomposition is auto-
>catalyzing, and can result in spontaneous explosion if the material is kept
>confined over time. The process is much faster if the material is not washed
>well enough. Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl
>amine or ethyl centralite. DO NOT ALLOW THESE TO COME INTO CONTACT WITH
>NITRIC ACID!!!! A small amount of either substance will capture the small
>amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They therefore
>inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any case.
>
>Again, this is inherently dangerous and illegal in certain areas. I got away
>with it. You may kill yourself and others if you try it.
>
> -Larry
Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by:
1. Spinning it in a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is
recycled.
2. Immersion in a large quantity of fresh water.
3. Boiling it in acidulated water and washing it thoroughly with fresh water.
If the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution,
then rinsed in fresh water.
The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the nitration
will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced.
There are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is
useful for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not
explosive, and are produced by incomplete nitration. If nitration is allowed
to proceed to complete the explosive trinatrate is formed.
CH OH CH ONO
| 2 | 2 2
| |
C-----O HNO C-----O
/H \ 3 /H \
-CH CH-O- --> -CH CH-O-
\H H/ H SO \H H/
C-----C 2 4 C-----C
| | | |
OH OH ONO ONO
2 2
CELLULOSE CELLULOSE TRINITRATE
*End Addendum
2.223 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be
produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel- oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%
Oxidizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
================================================================================
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
================================================================================
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.
2.224 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that
can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or
sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be treated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
2.225 "RED OR WHITE POWDER" PROPELLANT
Red or White Powder" Propellant may be preppared in a simple,
safe manner. The formulation described below will result in approxi-
mately 2-1/2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and
should only be used in weapons with 1/2 in. inside diameter or less,
such as the Match Gun or the 7.62 Carbine, but not pistols.
MATERIAL REQUIRED:
-----------------
Heat source (Kitchen stove or open fire)
2 gallon metal bucket
Measuring cup (8 ounces)
Wooden spoon or rubber spatula
Metal sheet or aluminium foil (at least 18 in. sq)
Flat window screen (at least 1 ft. sq.)
Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups
White sugar (granulated) 2 cups
Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (if available)
Clear water, 3-1/2 cups
PROCEDURE:
---------
1. Place the sugar,potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat
with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and
potassium nitrate dissolve.
2. If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase
the flame under the mixture until it boils gently.
NOTE: The mixturewill retain the rust coloration.
3. Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is
reduced to one quarter of its original volume, then stir continuosly.
4. As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it
reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge.
At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source,
and spread the mass on the metal sheet.
5. While the material cools, scoreit with the spoon or spatulain in
crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch apart.
6. Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries,
rescore it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to aid drying.
7. When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft
but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen.
Rub the material back and forth against the screen mash with spoon or
other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-
like particles.
8. After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.
2.226 ACETONE PEROXIDE EXPLOSIVE
_______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| Acetone Peroxide Explosive |
| |
| Brought to you by - |
| |
| Jack The Ripper |
| |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a
detonater. I will go into this one very detailed.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleach, Drug Stores
and Hair supply Stores
Acetone Hardware Stores and Drug
Stores
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid
boiled until white fumes
appear.
Eye Dropper or Syringe w/ glass tube
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)
Glass Containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper Towels
All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your
own purposes.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container
and mix thoroughly.
2) Cool it by plaicing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and
water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.
3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated ulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by
drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the
the temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the temperature rises
don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then
start adding it again.
4) Now that you got all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for
another 5 minutes.
5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.
6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the
once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours.
7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with a
rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water
over them, letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the
paper towel into the jar.
8) Select a container and allow them to dry.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonater
that I have ever encountered. It works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing
with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as
Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it
refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effects it should
be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate
almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that
matter.
Later...
Jack The Ripper
2.23 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
2.231 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in
the home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of
ammonium nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts
of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and
it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could
result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more
ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or,
ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold
when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the
temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps
4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals
more stable and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it
should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since
ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium
nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
2.232 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the hap-hazard
method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a construction site, since
it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to
shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending a
tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
2.233 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to
pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to
detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by
weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps
the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also
requires a large shockwave to set it off.
* Addendum From hayes.ims.alaska.edu (internet)
>
> Lately there was been a lot said about various ANFO mixtures. These are
>mixtures of Ammonium Nitrate with Fuel Oil. This forms a reasonably powerful
>commercial explosive, with its primary benifit being the fact that it is
>cheap. Bulk ANFO should run somewhere around 9-12 cents the pound. This is
>dirt cheap compared to 40% nitro gel dynamites at 1 to 2 dollars the pound.
>To keep the cost down, it is frequently mixed at the borehole by a bulk
>truck, which has a pneumatic delivery hopper of AN prills (thats pellets to
>most of the world) and a tank of fuel oil. It is strongly recommended that a
>dye of some sort, preferably red be added to the fuel oil to make it easier
>to distinguish treated AN explosive from untreated oxidizer.
>
> ANFO is not without its problems. To begin with, it is not that sensitive
>to detonation. Number eight caps are not reliable when used with ANFO.
>Booster charges must be used to avoid dud blast holes. Common boosters
>include sticks of various dynamites, small pours of water gel explosives,
>dupont's detaprime cast boosters, and Atlas's power primer cast explosive.
>The need to use boosters raises the cost. Secondly, ANFO is very water
>susceptable. It dissolves in it, or absorbes it from the atmosphere, and
>becomes quite worthless real quick. It must be protected from water with
>borehole liners, and still must be shot real quick. Third, ANFO has a low
>density, somewhere around .85. This means ANFO sacks float, which is no
>good, and additionally, the low density means the power is somewhat low.
>Generally, the more weight of explosive one can place in a hole, the more
>effective. ANFO blown into the hole with a pneumatic system fractures as it
>is places, raising the density to about .9 or .92. The delivery system adds
>to the cost, and must be anti static in nature. Aluminum is added to some
>commercial, cartridge packaged ANFOs to raise the density---this also raises
>power considerable, and a few of these mixtures are reliablly cap sensitive.
>
> Now than, for formulations. An earlier article mentioned 2.5 kilos of
>ammonium nitrate, and I believe 5 to 6 liters of diesel. This mixture is
>extremely over fueled, and I'd be surprised if it worked. Dupont recommends
>a AN to FO ratio of 93% AN to 7% FO by weight. Hardly any oil at all. More
>oil makes the mixture less explosive by absorbing detonation energy, and
>excess fuel makes detonation byproducts health hazzards as the mixture is
>oxygen poor. Note that commercial fertilizer products do not work as well as
>the porous AN prills dupont sells, because fertilizers are coated with
>various materials meant to seal them from moisture, which keep the oil from
>being absorbed.
> Another problem with ANFO: for reliable detonation, it needs confinement,
>either from a casing, borehole, etc, or from the mass of the charge. Thus,
>a pile of the stuff with a booster in it is likely to scatter and burn rather
>than explode when the booster is shot. In boreholes, or reasonable strong
>casings (cardboard, or heavy plastic film sacks) the stuff detonated quite
>well. So will big piles. Thats how the explosive potential was discovered:
>a small oil freighter rammed a bulk chemical ship. Over several hours the
>cargoes intermixed to some degree, and reached critical mass. Real big
>bang. A useful way to obtain the containment needed is to replace the fuel
>oil with a wax fuel. Mix the AN with just enough melted wax to form a
>cohesive mixture, mold into shape. The wax fuels, and retains the mixture.
>This is what the US military uses as a man placed cratering charge. The
>military literature states this can be set off by a blasting cap, but it
>is important to remember the military blasting caps are considerable more
>powerful than commercial ones. The military rightly insists on reliability,
>and thus a strong cap (maybe 70-80 percent stronger than commercial). They
>also tend to go overboard when calculating demolition charges...., but then
>hey, who doesn't....
>
> Two manuals of interest: Duponts "Blaster's Handbook", a $20 manual
>mainly useful for rock and seismographic operations. Atlas's "Powder Manual"
>or "Manual of Rock Blasting" (I forget the title, its in the office). This
>is a $60 book, well worth the cash, dealing with the above two topics, plus
>demolitions, and non-quarry blasting.
>
> Incidently, combining fuel oil and ammonium nitrate constitutes the
>manufacture of a high explosive, and requires a federal permit to manufacture
>and store. Even the mines that mix it on site require the permit to
>manufacture. Those who don't manufacture only need permits to store. Those
>who don't store need no permits, which includes most of us: anyone, at least
>in the US may purchase explosives, provided they are 21 or older, and have no
>criminal record. Note they ought to be used immediately, because you do need
>a liscence to store. Note also that commercial explosives contain quantities
>of tracing agents, which make it real easy for the FBI to trace the explosion
>to the purchaser, so please, nobody blow up any banks, orphanages, or old
>folks homes, okay.
>
> Dean Syta, Civil Engineer at large.
*End Addendum
2.234 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It is
the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,
and it is filtered.
2.2341 T.N.T. II By THE SCREAMER
Probably the most important explosive compond in use today is TNT
(trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high explosives ar
all used by the military, because of their fantastic power- about 2.25
millions pounds per square inch, and there great stability. TNT also has the
great advantage of being ableto be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be
poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in
containers which resemble dryu cell batteries, and are usually ingnited by an
electrical charge, coupled with an electical blasting cap, although there are
other methods.
Preparation of TNT
1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker,
prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric
acid (percentages are on a weig ht ratio rather than volume).
2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed
in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50
degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and
the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will
begin to form on the top of the acid.
6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and
cooled to 45 degrees C. when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will
sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining
acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this
temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees
C>, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this,
the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the
bottom.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished
slowly and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid
solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104
degrees C., and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and
held there for a half hour.
12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.
13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the
TNT will begin to solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so
that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good
quality TNT. NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT,
and must be used as such.
DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer.
The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for
this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY.
2.235 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e. put
the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
2.236 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
2.237 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10
ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch.
Cold water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.
2.238 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly
simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and
nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college
chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric
acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts,
such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant
would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric
acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and
heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of
it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
2.239 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than
that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric
acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when
placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear
household ammonia. All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into
a glass container and dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add
clear household ammonia in excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate.
The powder remaining should be ammonium picrate.
2.2391 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water. Do
not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it remains
undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a
stopper and glass pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
2.2392 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for other
explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive explosive.
It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it is easily
detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is simple to
produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate beakers,
the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution,
until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker
stops forming.
Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The
precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead
acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in it.
Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
2.2393 ASTROLITE By: Future Spy & The Fighting Falcon
Note: Information on the Astrolite Explosives were taken from the book
'Two Component High Explosive Mixtures' By Desert Pub'l
Some of the chemicals used are somewhat toxic, but who gives a fuck! Go ahead!
I won't even bother mentioning 'This information is for enlightening purposes
only'! I would love it if everyone made a gallon of astrolite and blew their
fucking school to kingdom scum!
Astrolite
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant
research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than
TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it
isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
Astrolite G
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual
characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed
easily into the ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite
G has remained detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was
soaked due to rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that
the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting
hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic
hydra-zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization
catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic
developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be
careful with.
Astrolite A/A-1-5
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has
a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
Misc. info
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
2.24 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be
used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials presented
here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style results.
2.241 THERMITE
Thermite is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not
react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both
finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the
oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that
produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat
produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it
is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
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powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by
weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermite, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The
other method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can
be ignited.
2.242 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter
fluid, turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large
glass bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the
flammable liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in
the liquid in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly.
Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave
a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the
bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on
impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near the
site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
2.243 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the
very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays
onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside
with plastic inside
conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid
eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a
cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water, or
enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution on
top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
2.244 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would
be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used,
and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and
expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.
In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized
fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting
of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the
expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with
gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is
less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed
of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective
way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of
the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal
should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene,
or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
Addendum 4/12/91:
During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only
to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar
to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the
fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to
detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to
burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation.
Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into
fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed
in a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding
rooms, rendering it structurally unsound.
*End addendum
2.3 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED
OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT! The first step that a person that would use explosive would take
would be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do
whatever had to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb
with. He would also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device,
and determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be
necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without it
being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and
build his explosive device. These are some of the topics covered in the next
section.
2.31 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak in
terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
2.32 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are
more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being
caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to
hide.
2.321 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse
in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse
is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It
is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00
for a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers
because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or
lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system
can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such
things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse
system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains
its simplicity. One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH,
AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure
not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker
faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches.
Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them. In
turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
burning match heads.
2.3211 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work
with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die
for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
through very easily.
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and
hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
smoothly in one long motion.
To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures.
Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled
out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
2.322 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made
initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a
cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are
also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package
of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the
way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A
cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ | |
| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
_______| |^^^^^^^|
| ___________|
| |
no. 11 |_______|
percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing
cap :
here |__________ nipple onto bomb
|____ |
| |^^^^^^^^^|
|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
| |
|_________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a
small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
2.323 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted
in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation
sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best
electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting
caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in
packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use
them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military
squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they
explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive high
explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
2.324 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
2.324 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to
explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/_________ \
\ ( Hg )| /
\ _(_Hg___)|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This
type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a
swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the
switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or
squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it slammed in
your face by an explosion.
2.325 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips
of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between
them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire
can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When
the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current
to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the
contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to
explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since the
spring also conducts electricity.
2.326 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with
radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could
possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money
involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such
an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is
visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach
the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car,
or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the
rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the
contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times
with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he
controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the
device became a detonator).
2.327 MINI-COMPOUND DETONATOR'S
_______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| Mini-Compound Detonater's |
| |
| Brought to you by- |
| |
| Jack The Ripper |
| |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
This is basically a tutorial in making detonaters, and there are a few
rules, that I would like each and every one of you to follow. Making detonaters
is very very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonaters is for them to
be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the detonaters I am
telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on a
larger scale.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or Hardware
tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These Stores
tubes must also be closed at one end.
A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX RDX Article 3 this
(amount depends on how many detonaters you intend to issue of "Anarchy
make) or PETN can be substituted here. Today" PETN is the
center filling of
detonating cords.
A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Acetone Peroxide
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. Article 1 this issue
of "Anarchy Today"
An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black
powder.
A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores
also please be safe considering a few of these
detonaters may detonate when being compressed, so
take the neccessary precautions such as safty glasses
etc...)
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonaters to an unsafe level so when
handling the primary ad secondary and ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a
bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your
shower on hot and leave it on!
1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell
casing before use. Then let the wax cool down.
2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
*GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly
and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.
3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a
column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into
the 1 inch shell casing.
4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the
secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of
secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a
height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.
5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal
the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
-=-=-=-=-
-DIAGRAM-
-=-=-=-=-
- ++++++
| |@@@@|
| |****|
| |****|
| |####|
1 INCH------< |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |----|
- |====|
+-+-+
+Key+
+-+-+
@ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)
* = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)
# = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)
- = Two drops of wax on Bottom
+ = Tape covering top
= = The bottom of shell casing
| = Sides of .22 Magnum Shell
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger
version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use
is for minature hand grenades and other small explosives. The next issue of
"Anarchy Today" will cover various things such as explosive candles, etc...
Later...
Jack The Ripper
2.33 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.
2.331 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely
to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft
in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition
of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is
determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the
fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed
with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A
chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few
bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the
first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party
supply store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the
fuse about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are
possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home. By
dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of boiling
water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all cotton
string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries, it
must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of
the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder
or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is
then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed
to dry.
2.332 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if
it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By
simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and
using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made.
The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an
hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a
timer could be extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can
usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be
work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch
would not have to be stepped up.
2.333 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some
cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and
capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is
forming does not break the container.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath
the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be
able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the
acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium
chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse, or
the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some
potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this
mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
2.34 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker to a
complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both of which
are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of terror.
2.341 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in
firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper,
and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown
here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The
process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If
one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and
fold one corner so that it looks like this:
________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|_____________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
______________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder,
pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the
quick-burning fuel- oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder.
A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being
careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished,
it should be taped together very tightly, since this will increase the
strength of the container, and produce a louder and more powerful explosion
when it is lit. The finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch
thick triangle, like the one shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse
3.342 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode
the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and
the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb.
He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would
drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come
out, and so powder will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at
least 3/4 an inch long inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the
fuse in it on tightly, possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it
tight. He would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it
tightly, he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe
to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and
pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it would not move
any further.
Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue
paper would help prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads
of the pipe or pipe cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which
might ignite the powder, causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled
bomb is shown in fig. 2.
________ ________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |________|_________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however, he
did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a piece
of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable position. A
major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without
tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe, it
will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of
copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making
sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be
folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should
be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be
inserted.
Next, the bomb- builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive,
and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold
the other end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he
would do this slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off
heat, which could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/| |
| | o | |
|______________________________________________ | |
\_|______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a low-
order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming to fill.
But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge with a
pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the CO2
cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning
fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called
"crater makers".
Addendum 4/12/91:
From personal experience, I have found that a CO2 cartridge is
easiest to fill if you take a piece of paper and tape it around the
opening to form a sort of funnel:
A full \ / Use a punch or sharp philips (+) screwdriver to
cartridge \ / enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge.
can also be \ /
fun- @ It doesn't seem to be neccessary to seal the hole,
/ \ but if you must do so, Epoxy and electrical tape
toss it into | | work quite well.
a lite fire | |
and it will (__) CONDENSATION may form inside a recently used
explode, and bottle- if you must use one right after emptying
the CO2 may it, heat it in a warm oven to dry it out.
extinguish the flames.
*End Addendum
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermite incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the
thermite .
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-
order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order
explosive would probably be used.
_____________________________________
| _ |
| / \ |
| High Explosive filler |LO =======
| \_/ |
|____________________________________|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
2.343 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there are
problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively easily
compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely
event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably be
seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a sample
perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still
has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his
ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by a
demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap | >
| > | < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.
2.344 PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used
as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a
drying agent works best in this type of device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------- fuse
||***************||
||<7C><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
|| ||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of
tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC
pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had
an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be
used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
Addendum 4/12/91:
In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat
expensive. One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when
mixed with hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than
most epoxy. The only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit
of heat as it hardens, which might be enough to set of a overly
sensitive explosive.
One benefit of body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite
well, and is ideal for forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings.
*End Addendum
2.35 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of this
information comes from demolitions books, or from military handbooks.
Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a
minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost
always involve high- order explosives.
2.351 SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs the
explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be used
to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds of
pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ - wire
_ _________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | / \ | |
8 inches high | | / \ | |
| | / high \ | |
| | | / explosive \ | |
| | | / charge \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch
| | | / \ | | thick steel
| | | / \ | | pipe
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________
|______| |____________| |_____________| |______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the
opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in
the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A
device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a
powerful electromagnet.
2.352 TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with a
sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive
container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be
produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This
type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a
telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely
destroy whatever it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive
would look like this:
||\____/||
|| epoxy|| <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
||------|| <20> RDX <20> another *Addendum <20>
||tissue|| <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ĵ
|| paper|| <20> NO <20>
||______|| <20> 2 <20>
||******|| <20> | <20>
||******|| <20> N <20>
||******|| <20> / \ <20>
|| RDX || <20> / \ <20>
||*____*|| <20> H C H C <20>
||*| s|*|| <20> / 2 2 <20>
||*| q|*|| <20> / | <20>
||*| u|*|| <20> O N N--NO <20>
||*| i|*|| <20> 2 \ / 2 <20>
||*| b|*|| <20> \ / <20>
||*| b|*|| <20> \ / <20>
||*|__|*|| <20> CH <20>
||__||__|| <20> 2 <20>
||tissue|| <20> <20>
|| paper|| <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
||--||--||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap it
around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube bomb
together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires, and
detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.
2.353 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would
push the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized
particle explosion.
If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable
substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge, or
other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the
charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If
this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would
surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to
accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X.
Also, instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary
that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a
low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the
flammable material.
2.354 LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down
to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive
material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base,
it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the
bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the
bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a
working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into
the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on
the light.
2.355 BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched by
authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend to
set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called
a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book.
Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the
hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books,
large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual makes a
bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place
where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book bomb
can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping saw.
First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring an
entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling the
bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will hold
all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution has
cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well, the
pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each page
must be thoroughly soaked.
It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck to
the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book by both
covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works best. When the pages
dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into the now
rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by inserting the
coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle
of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages.
The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from
rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio
control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is
taken to its destination.
2.356 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past to
kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down.
Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's
leads where it was. Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section
3.31) in the receiver, and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is
surrounded by the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place.
When the individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone,
he will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow
through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely making a
phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the
tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be by his/her ear when the
device explodes...
Addendum 4/12/91:
The above seems overly complicated to me... it would be better to rig
the device as follows:
_________ FIRST UNPLUG THE PHONE FROM THE WALL
/|-------|\ Wire the detonator IN LINE with the wires going to the earpiece,
~ | | ~ (may need to wire it with a relay so the detonator can receive
@@@@@@@@ the full line power, not just to audio power to the earpiece)
@@@@@@@@@@
@@@@@@@@@@ Pack C4 into the phone body (NOT the handset) and plug it back
in. When they pick up the phone, power will flow through the
circuit to the detonator....
3 WEAPONS
3.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social
deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over
individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good enough to
kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from
crossbows to shotguns.
3.11 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon primitive
that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile forward. This
means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
3.111 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter
to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum
piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire
segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates
upon impact, or with a fuse.
All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and
diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube
with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to
about 1/2 an inch from the top.
Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the
tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11
percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue.
Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and
make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and
glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like:
____________
___|____________\____________________
\ ---.
/__ ________________________________---`
|____________/
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap explodes,
igniting or detonating the explosive.
3.112 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages. A
blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive or
poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile is
not difficult.
Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill capsule,
such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule
could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be
re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high explosive
charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive, if one of the
larger capsules were used.
Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a tassel
or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive, to insure
that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.
Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the
tassel or cotton, and look something like this:
____________________
/mercury | \-----------------------
(fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------
3.113 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter marble
about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well be
lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the
relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating
device by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material.
Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted
with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have to
make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the device did
not explode before it reached its intended target.
Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22 caliber
blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for wristrockets, but they
must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light weight.
3.114 PORTABLE GRENADE LAUNCHER
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum
arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns
easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule
went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one
is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminim go all over the place!!
3.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army with
a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that can be
difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the home. There
is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition
is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the
slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For
this reason, NOBODY SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION.
3.121 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive
explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of
an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed in
the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed
exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
3.122 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create some
extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun shell
is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed. Then,
if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the
bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched
weapons.
Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without the
shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away from the end
of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel.
Next, decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used.
This device can be a chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect
4.42), or a thermite bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it
must be securely attached to the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel
back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary device should be on the end of the
dowel.
Make sure that the device has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire
the shotgun. If the projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are
possible. A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below:
____
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
||
||
3.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, CO2 B.B guns,
and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought of as kids
toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
3.131 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or
pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a
muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177
caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made
that has a caliber of .177.
Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to
ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores,
since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate when
struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown
at a hard surface at a great speed.
Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are
inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard
surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as
that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed,
and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below:
_____ primers _______
| |
| |
| |
V V
______ ______
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------- cotton
|_____ _____|-------------------
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue. The
tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
3.132 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or
smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one
would have to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition
primers, since there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11
cap is too small, but anything larger will do nicely.
3.2 IMPROVISED WEAPONS
3.21 BOMBS
3.211 EXPEDIENT GRENADES The Cheshire Cat
There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for
the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of
easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is
reduced dramatically.
Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a reasonable type of
grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and transported easily, but
produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if you find it possible,
you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying to produce one
yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note that this is
all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone trying any
of the following for real.
The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or
gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are
enough text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!)
than you're really in a for making a grenade of this type.
You'll also need a coffee can, a smaller sized can (probably like an orange
juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and a fuse. As for explosives, mercury
fulminate is extremely good for this sort of thing.
You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the black
powder (if you're desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone.
The explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight.
Loose black powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive.
Cut up the coat hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill
up the coffee can until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice
can is level with the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and
need to fill up the space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of
glass, and stuff like that until you have the bottom of the can filled.
Now place the juice can in the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the
space around the coffee can with coat hanger stuff until the juice can is
relatively stable. Put a model rocket fuse in the explosive in the juice
can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from. If necessary, secure the juice
can or the explosive with some masking tape, ect... as long as it doesn't
interfere with the action of the grenade.
Take the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed.
You now have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice
with a football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage
with it.
try OSB systems (215)-395-1291 an awesome AE/BBS. Later, The Cheshire Cat
3.212 MILK CARTON BOMB
A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to
create a loud noise.
The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will
need a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a
piece of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks,
it's okay to substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is
long enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.
After acquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb.
The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk
carton with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk
carton with lighter fluid.
Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a piece of paper
between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match. Cautiously place the
lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM! You have your loud
explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. It would be a good idea
to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.
Be careful when doing this and have fun.
3.213 CARBIDE BOMB
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium
carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at
nearly any hardware store.
Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a
glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with
the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches.
Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a
burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
3.214 SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. the bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. a giant firecracker or other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. the fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
! ! After first making sure there are no
! ! children nearby, the acid or glycerine
! ! <-CHEMICAL INGITER is put into the straw and the can is set
---- ---- down by a tree or wall where it will not
! !1! ! be knocked over. the delay should give
! ===== ! you three to five minutes. it will then
!* ! ! "! have a shattering effect on passersby.
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- BIG FIRECRACKER
! ! !% !
! ==== !
! !
! # ! It is hardly likely that anyone would
! --- ! pick up and drink from someone else's
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS soft drink can. but if such a crude
! / ! person should try to drink from your
! ! bomb he would break a nasty habit
--------- fast!
3.215 HOW TO MAKE A PIPE BOMB
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both
ends. Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware
stores. Drill a 1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a
good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end.
Fill the pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack
the powder. Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want
the powder loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder
sitting loose in a very rigid container.
Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or threads of the pipe.
Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a small piece of
tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and insert a two
inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole. Place the
bomb behind a large rock or tree.
Using thread or string, lightly tie a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to
the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick touch any objects. This might
cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for cover in a direction that
keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all times. Get behind cover
at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large explosion from such a
small object.
Be extra cautious until You have done this a time or two and it gets real
what you are dealing with. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will fly
through the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill you.
This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe and caps.
To make a big noise without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill
a 1/16 hole at the top of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4
rounded teaspoonsful of powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the
powder. Toilet paper or kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a
safety pin and stick it into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder
so a fuse can be inserted. When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous.
You will loose your pipe unless you brace it securely against something.
The pipe can be reloaded and used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe
pointing upward. Drop a tin can over the open end and light the fuse. The can
will be blown high into the air. Campbell's soup cans are great for this.
3.216 MINITURE CLAYMORE MINE
_______________________________________________________________________________
| |
| |
| Miniature Claymore Mine |
| |
| Brought To You By |
| |
| Jack The Ripper |
| |
|_____________________________________________________________________________|
This is devasting and should be used in malls or other heavily
trafficked areas. It has a kill range of 50 yards (half a football feild), and
is one of the best I have seen, and it's fun to watch too!
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Potassium Chlorate Drug Stores and Chemical
Supply Houses
Nitrobenzene Drug Stores (Oil of Mirbane)
and Chemical Supply Houses
Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)
Double-Sided Adhesive Tape
Small Alnico 5 Horseshoe Magnets
Epoxy Resin
A Lot of 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings
Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves
That fit together with the bottom half and the
top half bevelled
Flat board 36x36 and another flat board or
Rolling Pin
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) First off crush the Potassium Chlorate between the two boards or with
the rolling pin until it is a very very very fine powder.
2) Fill the top half of the soap dish to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch
diameter ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy
resin.
3) Now cut a hole in the bottom half and cover it with tape. The hole
should be big enough for you to pour the nitrobenzene into later and
big enough to fit a detonater into.
4) Now pack the bottom half tightly with Potassium Chlorate, very tightly
leaving no extra room.
5) Now tape the two halves together tightly, and your pretty much done.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
1) When your ready to use your charge simply pour in the nitrobenzene.
The correct ratio is 1 part by volume of nitrobenzene to 4 parts
by volume of potassium chlorate. Now if you didn't read this through
and keep track of the amount of potassium chlorate you used, then you
fucked up and won't get optimum results.
2) Now allow the nitrobenzene to soak in for 4-6 minutes, and then insert
your electronically initiated or time fused detonater into the hole.
Now seal around the hole with epoxy resin
3) Now use the magnets and the tape to attach the charge 3 feet above the
ground with the ball bearing side facing outward.
4) Now you can either use an egg timer or a stepswitch (Underground
detonater activated by weight) or you can use the good old time fuse
running into a mini-compound detonater.
Later...
Jack The Ripper
3.22 GUNS!
3.221 HOW TO MAKE A ICE GUN
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]
[][][] [][][]
[][][] A Step by Step Guide to Making a Dry Ice Gun [][][]
[][][] [][][]
[][][] By: The Voice Over [][][]
[][][] [][][]
[][][] A Metal Communications Presentation [][][]
[][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][]
Introduction:
------------
In the past, many people have experimented with the power
generated by the conversion of dry ice into gaseous carbon
dioxide. The most common use that I have seen is the dry ice
bomb. The dry ice bomb is easily made by using a two liter
plastic bottle, some hot water and some crushed dry ice. To
make one, one simply puts about a cup and a half of crushed dry
ice into the bottle, adds hot water, caps the bottle and throws
it. These bombs are not a joke, and have been known to blow a
metal trash can fifteen feet into the air, as well as bursting
the bottom of the can. If you make a dry ice bomb, you had best
throw it before it explodes due to the enormous force generated
by the explosion of the bottle. A friend of mine waited a bit
too long on throwing one, and he jammed three of his fingers
badly, got a huge bruise on his left leg, and one of the plasic
fragments was propelled with enough force to puncture his tennis
shoes and cut his foot all to hell. In short, be careful with
these things.
One day in May of 1985, an idea was introduced to me by a
friend. His plan was to control the force of the expanding dry
ice and harness it to a useful end. The result was the dry ice
gun. In following these plans, please keep in mind that when dry
ice is finished expanding, it can generate pressures of up to
2400 PSI...for this reason, I recommend that when arming the gun
and when disarming it, you hold all valves OPEN, and that you
wear a pair of protective goggles at all times. I will take no
responsibility for injury that occurs because of the content of
this file, or through the use of this information. This
information is intended for educational purposes ONLY.
Materials needed:
----------------
The materials required will vary for each gun produced
because of the nature of the construction itself and the effect
produced by using different parts. The following parts, however,
are necessary for a gun with moderate power and range:
1- Standard valve. I recommend the kind that is just a
lever and turns 1/4 turn to open or close and has 3/4"
connectors.
1- Blow gun (These can be found at auto parts stores... shop
around a little and get one with the highest pressure
rating you can find (probably 150 PSI)). This will be
sometimes referred to as a valve also.
1- Length of hot water PVC piping...this will be used for
the barrel. I recommend that you use 3/4" piping,
because that is the kind that fits paint pellets of the
type used in KILLER best. Note, however, that it is
possible to launch anything up to the size of an egg with
pleasing results, provided that the barrel is large
enough in diameter.
You will also 3ed various lengths of regular lead or steel
piping (to construct the actual gun), and adapters to get the
blow gun to fit the rest of the gun (blow guns usually have
connectors that are 1/4" in diameter, while the rest of the gun
(except the dry ice container) should be constructed with 3/4"
fittings). You will also need an end cap to go on the end of
your dry ice container and probably an elbow joint.
Optional parts:
--------------
1- Standard valve (same kind as above, but with a shorter
lever).
1- "T" joint with 3/4" connectors all around.
1- 6 or 7 inch length of 3/4" diameter pipe.
1- 3/4" end cap.
Form-a-gasket and pipe dope
Construction:
------------
Because of the nature of the gun, step-by-step plans are
not possible. However, a diagram of the gun will give you an
idea of what has to be done, and construction tips should prove
enough to allow successful completion of the project.
Diagram:
-------
trigger (part of the blow gun) standard
adaptor______________ : valve
\ :
: : :
______________________ : _ ; _____:______
! !\__ __!___/! ! \
! barrel ! __!__!__! ! O ! \
!______________________!/ / : : \!___I__!__ \
joint B____________/ : : : I \ \
blow gun_____________/ : : I / \ \
pressure chamber________/ : I / !_____!<-joint A
adaptor____________________/ / ! !
elbow joint________________________/ /! !
dry ice container_____________________/ ! @ !
end cap_______________________________ _!_____!_
\!! !!
+-------+
NOTES:
1- The dry ice container can be any size...the one I use is
about 6 inches long by 2 inches in diameter. The larger
the chamber is, the more shots the gun will fire before
reloading is necessary.
2- The elbow joint can be left out...it will only make the
gun in the shape of a straight rod rather than a
"traditional" gun shape.
3- The barrel length can be any length you like, but very
long ones are cumbersome and very short ones don't allow
much accuracy. I recommend a length of about 2 1/2 to 3
feet.
4- all joints except the two marked 'A' and 'B' should be
tightened as much as possible and sealed by coating the
threads with the form-a-gasket and then putting the two
pieces together and tightening them as much as possible.
If you like, you can also caulk around the finished and
tightened joint.
5- The joint marked 'B' should be tight, but DO NOT SEAL IT
unless you do not intend to ever use more than one kind
of barrel.
6- The joint marked 'A' should not be sealed with form-a-
gasket like the others because it is the one that you
will be filling the dry ice into the gun through. To
fill the gun with dry ice, detach the dry ice chamber
pipe from the elbow joint. Load the container with as
much crushed dry ice as it will hold. Then, coat the
threads of one of the pieces of the joint with pipe
dope. This will prevent leakage of the carbon dioxide
after it has changed into gaseous form.
7- The pressure chamber should be about 1 1/2 inches in
length for a fairly powerful gun. The longer the
pressure chamber is, the more powerful the gun. On
a gun with a three inch pressure chamber, we shot a
AA battery 500 (yes, hundred) feet across a parking
lot. Such high power, however, is dangerous, and is
not recommended for use in games such as Killer, but
rather for target practice (on INANIMATE objects).
How to operate the dry ice gun:
------------------------------
Once you have the dry ice gun built and loaded, the first
thing you must do is to open the standard valve and immerse the
gun in water. This is to check for leaks. If any leaks are
present, they will show up as streams of bubbles rising from the
gun. If any are found, tighten the offending joint and put the
gun back in the water. When all leaks are gone (if necessary,
take the whole thing apart and rebuild it from scratch to
eliminate leaks, especially on either end of the pressure
chamber), release the pressure built up so far by closing the
standard valve and then operating the trigger. You should hear
a 'woosh' sound, and tie gun should kick slightly. This
indicates that all is working properly. When loading the dry ice
gun, it is important to keep both valves OPEN until the dry ice
container is secure, and then close both valves. Even after you
are sure that the gun has no leaks anywhere, it is good to
immerse the dry ice container (while it is attached to the gun)
in water. This warms the dry ice and causes it to change into
gaseous carbon dioxide.
After the dry ice container has been immersed for 5 minutes
or so, remove the gun from the water and dry it off. The gun is
now ready to be fired.
Firing the dry ice gun:
----------------------
This is the simplest step of all. To fire the gun simply
place the projectile (I recommend paint pellets) in the barrel
of the gun, open the standard valve for about a second and
then close it. You should hear a muffled rush of air as some
of the gaseous CO2 is bled into the pressure chamber. Aim the
gun at who/whatever you wish to hit, and squeeze the trigger.
For more power, you can leave the standard valve open and squeeze
the trigger.
Disarming the dry ice gun:
-------------------------
To disarm the gun, open both valves until you can no longer
hear the pressure escaping through the barrel of the gun. Then,
unscrew the dry ice container and place it in cold water for
about 3 to 4 minutes, or until all of the remaining dry ice has
evaporated. When all of the dry ice is gone, clean the threads on
the dry ice container and elbow joint, and store the gun in a
clean, dry area.
Suggested modifications:
-----------------------
The only really nice modification that I've discovered is
to replace the pressure chamber pipe with a "T" joint and valve
so as to make a gun with long, medium, and short range
capability. To do this, construct the pressure chamber section
of the gun like this:
___adaptor I
: ______________________________________ ________I___
_____ _ :/! ! I
___#__!o!/ ! ! I
! ! ! I
! ! "T" joint ! O
________! ! !
: \ ! !
: \!____________ _____________!____________
: ! ! ^
: !_____________! !
:__blow gun !______O______!<-standard standard
! I ! valve #2 valve #1
! I !
! I !<-short length
_!______I______!_ of piping
!! !!
+---------------+
end cap_______/
What this does is make a pressure chamber with a variable
length. The following chart shows the combinations in which the
valves may be used to create different ranges.
RANGE ! INSTRUCTIONS
--------+--------------------------------------------------------
short ! Open valve number 1, hold it open for about a second,
! close it, and then open valve #2.
--------+--------------------------------------------------------
medium ! Open valve number 1 for about a second and close it.
! Leave valve #2 closed.
--------+--------------------------------------------------------
long ! Open valve #2 before opening valve #1. Open valve #1
! for about a second, then close it.
--------+--------------------------------------------------------
Have fun, Y'all!!!
From Lunatic Labs UnLtd. 415-278-7421
4 ROCKETS AND CANNONS
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because they are
difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to
make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can make such
things. A terrorist with a cannon or large rocket is, indeed, something to
fear.
4.1 ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before
the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were
inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets
are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have
no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military
rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular
hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes,
a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket
engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12
lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a
significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger
rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket
engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most
model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help
explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of
hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket
forward.
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is
ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be
seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.
When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject".
The ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly,
exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the
parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a
bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in
pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the
thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
indicates a 3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The
mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
4.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device
would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from
balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C"
engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater
maker", or CO2 cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure
that the fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over
the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool.
The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
_______________________________V_
|_______________________________| ______________________
\ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - -
smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such
as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that
the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:
|\
| \
| \
| \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
| |
| |
leading edge |
-------> |
| |
| | trailing edge
| | <--------
| |
| |
| |
| |
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch
it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment
of a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the
fins of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
fin | <------ fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
---------------| |---------------
\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic
straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one
illustated on the following page:
____
/ \
| |
cut here _____ |
| |
| |
| / \
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
4.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of
such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection
charge explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an
"0" engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and
burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the
thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing
an overall loss of weight.
The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed
somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket
to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag.
This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving
the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the
rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it
a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the
fin area gets larger.
4.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be
done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers
and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a
rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive
devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the
following page:
___
/ \ The crater makers are attached to
| | the tube of rolled paper with tape. the
| C | paper tube is made by rolling and gluing
| M | a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper. The
|___| tube is glued to the engine, and is
___| |___ filled with gunpowder or black powder.
| | | | Small holes are punched in it, and the
| | T | | fuses of the crater makers are inserted
/ \ | U | / \ in these holes. A crater maker is glued
/ \| B |/ \ to the open end of the tube, so that its
| || E || | fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is
| C || || C | inserted in the engine, or in the bottom
| M || || M | engine if the rocket bomb is multi
| ||___|| | stage, and the rocket is launched from
\___/| E |\___/ the coathanger launcher, if a segment of
| N | a plastic straw has been attached to it.
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/ | E | \
/ |___| \
/ fin/ | \ fin\
| / | \ |
\__/ | \__/
^
|____ fin
4.2 CANNON
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th
century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder, loaded,
and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot,
otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the
barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,
if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
4.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only
difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick
to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon.
If one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile
can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such
a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very
smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe.
Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or
tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the
crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two
teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by
ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge.
Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run.
If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will
not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
________________________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
tissue paper packing wad.
___
When the cannon is fired, it ( )
will ignite the end of the |C |
fuse, and shoot the CO2 | M|
cartridge. The | |
explosive-filled cartridge | |
will explode in about three \ /
seconds, if all goes well. [] <--- taped fuse
Such a projectile would look []
like this: []
! <--- Bare fuse (add matchheads)
4.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON
___ A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a
/ \ normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A
| | rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket
| C | alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
| M | initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is
| | moving will go further than one that is launched when it
| | is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal
|___| rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look
| E | like the image to the left.
| N |
| G | the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short,
| I | but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection
| N | charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection
| E | charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
|___| explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and
simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.
4.23 TENNIS BALL CANNONS
At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather
than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a bunch
of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube of two feet or
more.
At the end we would tape a can with the bottom intact, more holes
punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a small hole in the side at
the base. We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it
reliably. Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then
placed therein.
In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic
solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and
sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics,
we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with potato
chips provided spectacular entertainment.
Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole
in the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The
"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite it.
BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!
----------
Our version of the potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly. Ours used
coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the seventh had church
key holes all around one end. This was spiral wrapped with at least two
rolls of duct tape.
A wooden shoulder rest and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For
ignition we used lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push
button on the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way
back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in one of
two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through the other hole.
We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired
with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range the
ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle. Closer up
the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When launched at a
moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally rattle anyone inside.
Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.
5 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of violence
might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military
smoke bombs can be bought through ads in gun and military magazines. Also,
fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display rocket
would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the
ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks,
which consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running
through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful to the
sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over a large
crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.
5.1 SMOKE BOMBS
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in
many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway
route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it
to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of
a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the
military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds,
such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped
terrorist. Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as
black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn
well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but
not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount
of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke
ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many
chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and
sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful
smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse
enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an
explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to
prevent an explosion.
5.11 SIMPLE SMOKE/STINK BOMB
Simple smoke/stink bomb- you can purchaase sulphur at a drugstore under
the name flowers of sulphur. now when sulphur burns it will give off a very
strong odor and plenty of smoke. now all you need is a fuse from a
firecracker, a tin can, and the sulphur. fill the can with sulphur(pack very
lightly), put aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into
the foil, insert the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value
your lungs. you can find many uses for this (or at least i hope so).
5.12 SIMPLE SMOKE BOMB
Needed :
Sugar
Epson Salts
1.) Mix the ingredients, 3 parts sugar, 6 parts epson salts.
2.) Put the mixture in a tin container and heat it with a lighter.
3.) When it has turned into a gel, put a fuse in it (a match will do).
4.) Let the gel harden.
5.13 SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary
6 pt. ZINC POWDER
1 pt. SULFUR POWDER
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back.
There are many other experiments I could have included, but i will save them
for the next chemist's corner article. upcoming articles will include
glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with
household chemicals , etc...
I would like to give credit to a book by shakashari entitled "Chemical
demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some
experiments.
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
5.2 COLORED FLAMES
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists. by
putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the
ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that
produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
red strontium road flares,
salts red sparklers
(strontium
nitrate)
green barium salts green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
yellow sodium salts gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
blue powdered copper blue sparklers,
old pennies
white powdered magnesium firestarters,
or aluminum aluminum foil
purple potassium permanganate purple fountains,
treating sewage
5.3 TEAR GAS
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use it
with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated to
make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize
its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below.
EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING TEAR GAS
_________
1. ring stands (2) 7. clamp holder
2. alcohol burner 8. condenser
3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml 9. rubber tubing
4. clamps (2) 10. collecting flask
5. rubber stopper 11. air trap
6. glass tubing 12. beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10 gms glycerine 2 gms sodium bisulfate distilled water
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a
brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is
corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting
flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.
5.31 LAUGHING GAS
As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium nitrate
has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to make
laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.
Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while of
inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't
keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.
Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is
because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were
inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of
the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag
under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee!
To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply
house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.
First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you
evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy
brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when
a drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.
When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break
it up and store it in a bottle.
A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube leading
into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.
When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If
white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.
When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.
Addendum 4/12/91: N2O supplants oxygen in your blood, but you don't realize
it. It's easy to die from N2O because you're suffocating and your breathing
reflex doesn't know it. SO: Do not put your head in a plastic bag (duhh...)
because you will cheerfully choke to death.
5.4 FIREWORKS
While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror,
they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are several
basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether for fun,
profit, or nasty uses.
5.41 FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The
instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it
with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the
tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the
package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose,
or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the
tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and
a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more
epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash
powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing
the material on a sparkler, and adding it to the flash powder, the explosion
will be the same color as the sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler
material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced.
White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY
crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks.
First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material
inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it.
Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder.
(NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to
1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum
foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the
house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I
would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in
the firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
5.42 SKYROCKETS
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that
the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits
the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the
powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at
least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about
1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be
produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
5.43 ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to
make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well
worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with
several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the
tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and
insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse
fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small
amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material
/ 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water,
one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed.
This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when
left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in
a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored
fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This
height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4,
or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
6 USEFUL CHEMISTRY
6.1 POISONS
A method of assasinatin that have been used through the ages is the
use of poisons. These can be inhaled, injected, imbibed, absorbed, or
eaten.
6.11 LIST OF POISONS
Acrylonitrile (cyanid-like)
Aniline (inhaled or absorbed)
Antimony trichloride (vapor)
Arsenic (Paris Green, Rat Poison, Ant Paste, Fowler's Solution)
Atropine (Bella Donna, Homatropine, Hyoscine, Hyoscyamine, Jimson
Weed, Scopolamine)
Amytal
Benzidine
Black Leaf 40 (nicotine)
Bromine (vapor)
Cadmium (vapor)
Cantharrides (Spanish Fly)
Cabon Disulfide (vapor, liquid)
Carbon tetrachloride (phosgene vapor)
Cathartic pills
Cherry Laurel Water (Cyanide)
Chloronitrobenzine
Copper Sulfate (Bluestone)
Curare (Introcostrin, used by vets.)
Cyanogen
Ethylene Chlorohydrin (liquid, vapor)
Ethyl mercury chloride (liquid, solid, vapor)
Fire Extinguisher fluid
Roach Poisons
Freon (when heated by flame)
Metallic hybrides (Arsine, Phosphine, Stipine gasses)
Morphine
Nicotine sulfate
Nitrobenzene
Oxalic Acid & Oxalates
Parathion (E-605, Thiphos, Thiophospate)
Phosphorus-white (Fireworks & foreign match heads, rat poisons)
Phosgene (Carbon tet., Chloroform in contact with flame)
Tetrachloroethane (acetyle tetrachloride)
Tetraethyl pyrophosphate (TEPP)
Thallium (Thalgrain rat poison)
Toxaphene (Chlorinated camphene)
Toluidine (vapor)
Weed killers (2,4-D)
6.2 DRUGS
I do not recoment the use of drugs in any way, and I take no
responsibility for what could be the result of using any of these recipies.
6.21 BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC DRUG.
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS THAT
BANANAS ARE LEGAL (FOR NOW)
1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE THE
SCRAPED MATERIAL.
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. TO A
HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE
ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
6.22 PEANUTS!
1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING David Letterman ONE NIGHT.
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.
6.23 MARIJUANA
Any fool can grow their own marijuana.... just plant the seeds in a warm,
sunny and not too public place, water and fertilize as you would any other
plant, and in a short while you'll have your own homegrown weed. I've heard
that you can kill mites by soaking some tobacco (buy a pack of plain pipe
tobacco) in water, and spraying it on the leaves (you don't want to use toxic
chemicals on something you're going to smoke later)
If you're not used to the stuff, cut it with 50% tobacco, and smoke it in
a filtered pipe or use the mixture to refill a cigarette- the tar content is
MUCH higher than that of a regular cigarrette.
Remember, cultivation is a FEDERAL crime, so if you can do it at home,
just pick a room with no windows, and put in some grow lights (sodium vapor
lamps are reputed to be the best- steal a couple streetlights) and a water
spigot.
7 USEFUL TECHNIQUES
7.1 LOCKPICKING
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortu- nately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire.
7.11 PICKING LOCKS THE EASY WAY
If the door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then
there are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch, one
can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate freeing the
latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ),
specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocketknives, and credit cards are the
tools of the trade. The way that all these tools and devices are uses is
similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall,
and pull the door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are
using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an
aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut
off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the
open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single long
rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips
in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide
strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-
shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:
(1)
_______________________________________________________ v 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| | 1/4
|_______________________________________________________| |
^
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum. This
should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and pull
the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between the door
and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made properly.
Addendum 4/12/91
Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to force the
frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or exposing it to the
above methods. This is possible because most door frames are designed with a
slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack into position horizontally across
the frame in the vicinty of the latch, and jack it out. If the frame is wood
it may be possible to remove the jack after shutting the door, which will
relock the door and leave few signs of forced entry.
7.12 PICKING COMBINATION LOCKS
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text
file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help
you.
First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock
is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on
the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it.
To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the desired
combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the
lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when ya don't know the combination to begin with).
First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just
ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold
something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip,
go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so.
Once you have your hair pin (make sure it's metal), take the ridged side
and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight
side. The curved part t can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file
down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many
hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick
various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But
most are not.
Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how
ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you
can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side
it opens from, , take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of
the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from.
Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the
crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the
pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't
say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money
from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers.
Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a
Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone
does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very
tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable
up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure
there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting
a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using
force, making a substitute key, etc...
If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking
an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at
/\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking
combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks".
See ya later, The Byte basher.
7.13 HOW TO PICK MASTER LOCKS By Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on
to it.
1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.
1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination),
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on
it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the
1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and
turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the
groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if
it's stiff you got the second number.
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2
numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on
it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the
first time, be patient, it takes time.
Addendum 4/12/91: I've tried this, and it no longer seems to work (master
wised up)
HOWEVER- the "MASTER warded padlock" locks are easily picked...
These are the lock with the keys that look like this:
_ _
/ \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \
\_/ [] [] [] []
Just file the key down so it looks like this:
_ _
/ \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~
\_/ []
Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and
down, turning as you pass each block, to release the latch.
*End Addendum
7.2 HOW TO COUNTERFEIT Written by The Wave
This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before reading this
article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset
printing, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who is familiar
with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made by a
process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I don't
think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's
Incredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will
have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your
printing skills. Well, let's get started!
First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts by
making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera).
Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material (
usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then
developed with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of
course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use
should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then
the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you
should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice,
but you'll get the hang of it.
BTW you can
pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can **
BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the morning!).
First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives of the
portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing them and
letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and, on one of
the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial numbers).
Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top of the
flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal and
serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because it is
all one color.
Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or REGISTERED, on the
flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, just shoot 1
neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number. Cut out the old
serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one. Ok, now you have
3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2 shades of green (which
of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates.
Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These marks must be 2 &
9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it
on the plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY!
Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you
already burned. Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat
up one mark. Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a
separate plate). Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each
plate with an equal space between each bill.
Roll the Presses!
The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty damn
close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use should have
a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works great -
that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this paper (cut
the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure to set the
air, buckle, and paper thickness right.
Start with the black plate (the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you
need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix
the inks for the serial #'s and the back side. You'll need to add some white
and maybe yellow to the serial # ink. You need to add black to back side.
Experiment till you get it right. Clean the press and print the other side.
Now you have the bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with
one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as
many different numbers as you want.
Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter Now you have a lot
of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4 tea bags, and about
16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip one of The bills in and
compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye
all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make them look used. Wrinkle them,
rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations! You're rich!
Some of the info was taken from The Poor Man's James Bond, but most from
personal knowledge. Also, it would be a good idea to see the movie To Live
and Die in L.A. It is about a counterfeiter and they did a good job of
showing how to do it. Well, that's all folks!
Call the Shadowkeep AE (513) 832-1938 AE:TAC
Addendum 4/12/91:
I have heard that there are several methods of detecting CONTERFEIT
money. First, most green ink flouresces under UV light. Second, some money
verifiers sold use MAGNETIC ink and INFRARED detection to tell if the money
is real.
I do NOT know what the pattern used is, if anybody does, send E-mail.
8 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school
chemistry book.
1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O
4 4 2
2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
" + HNO ----> KNO + "
3 3
3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + "
3 4 3 4
4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + "
3 3 3 3
5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H
3 2
B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al
3 2
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container
which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great
excess.
9.1 FUN WITH ALARMS
A fact I forgot to mention in my previous alarm articles is that one can also
use polyurethane foam in a can to silence horns and bells. you can purchase
this at any hardware store as insulation. it is easier to handle and dries
faster.
Many people that travel carry a pocket alarm with them. this alarm is a small
device that is hung around the door knob, and when someone touches the knob his
body capacitance sets off the alarm. these nasty nuisences can be found by
walking down the halls of a hotel and touching all the door knobs very quickly.
if you happen to chance upon one, attach a 3' length of wire or other metal
object to the knob. this will cause the sleeping business pig inside to think
someone is breaking in and call room service for help. all sorts of fun and
games will ensue.
Some high-security instalations use keypads just like touch-tone pads (a
registered trade mark of bell systems) to open locks or disarm alarms. most
use three or four digits. to figure out the code, wipe the key-pad free from
all fingerprints. after it had been used just apply finger print dust and all
four digits will be marked. now all you have to do is figure out the order.
if you want to have some fun with a keypad, try pressing the * and # at the
same time. many units use this as a panic button. This will bring the owner
and the cops running and ever-one will have a good time. never try to remove
them from the wall, as they all have tamper switches.
On the subject of holdups, most places (including super-markets, liquer
stores, etc.) have what is known as a money clip. these little nasties are
placed at the bottom of a money drawer and when the last few bills are
with-drawn a switch closes and sets the alarm off. that's why when you make
your withdrawl it's best to help your-self so you can check for these little
nasties. if you find them, merely insert ones underneath the pile of
twenties, and then pull out the twen-ties, leaving the one-dollar bill behind
to prevent the circuit from closing.
If you shoplift and see cameras, look at the brand. if it is surveillance video
systems (SVS) you need not worry. these cameras look realistic to the point of
pilot lights, coax, and scanning. however, they are only empty boxes.
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Another file downloaded from: The NIRVANAnet(tm) Seven
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Taipan Enigma 510/935-5845
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408/363-9766
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510/527-1662
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 801/278-2699
The New Dork Sublime Biffnix 415/864-DORK
The Shrine Rif Raf 206/794-6674
Planet Mirth Simon Jester 510/786-6560
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
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