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Anarchy
et
Discordiae
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The Horror! The Horror!
(c) 1993 A Stealth Research Publication
A Division of United Netrunners
Captain Hook
(The Foundation/Dynamic Krax Australia/The Second Field/United Netrunners)
and
Evasif
(SRI)
and the team from Stealth Research Industries:
(Hook)
Mr. Flay Sepulcrast
Evasif (The Master Forger)
Chris (Stealth)
Dameron
Rob (Hendrix)
Typeset and Published By:
Evasif (SRI)
With Contributions taken from
the following Publications:
(Or maybe NOT!)
Anarchy 'n Explosives
Anarchy Today
alt.locksmith FAQ
Art of Technology Digest
Artificial Intelligence Log
"Build Your Own Laser, Phaser, Ion Ray Gun & Other Working Space-age Projects
by Robert Iannini (Tab Books Inc)
-cDc- Cult of the Dead Cow -cDc- (A CULT Publication)
Computer Down-Under Ground Digest
Chaos Magazine
CHiNA Magazine
Computer Underground Digest
Corrupt Programming International
Jolly Roger's Cookbook
P/HUN Magazine
Digital Free Press
Electrix Magazine
Freedom Magzine
Informatik - The Journal of Priviledged Information
Improvised Munitions Handbook [TM 32-210] (US Dept. Army 1969)
Phrack Inc.
Phantasy Magazine
The Journal of Irreproducible Results
The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon
The LOD/H Technical Journal
The Globe Trotter Magazine
The Marine Corps Field Manual on Physical Security
The N. A. R. C. Newsletter
Pirate Magazine
Phirst Amendment Magazine
TAP Magazine Online
The Syndicate Report
United Phreakers Incorporated Magazine
Activist Times Incorporated
National Security Anarchists Magazine
The New Fone Express
Defense Data Network Security Bulletins (NOT!)
Freaker's Bureau Incorporated Magazine
K. C. A. H. Magazine
Hackers Unlimited Magazine
H-net Magazine
Master Anarchists Giving Illicit Knowledge (MAGIK) Magazine
Phreakers/Hackers/Anarchists Magazine
Phuckin' Phield Phreaks Magazine (aka Outdoor Life Magazine)
Rebels Riting Guild Magazine
Today's Chemist
With Contributions from the following hackers,
phreakers, anarchists, militants, chemists,
or just down right lamers:
Gunzenbombz Pyro-Technologies (Authors of the Complete Terrorist)
(A Division of CHAOS Industries)
Dead Horse (for spreading the original)
The Jolly Roger [eLItE L0ZeR!] (for plagiarising hundreds of text philes
without giving credit to anyone but HIMSELF)
Doctor Dissector (I love killer kracker!)
ACID
Acid Reign
Alpine Kracker
Anesthesia, (our protector)
Apple Maniac
BIOC 003
Baby Demon
Bad Boy in Black
Black Fire
Black Manta
Blue Max of Anarchist-R-Us
Capt. Cloner
Capt. Hack
Chief O'Hara
Circle Lord
Darc Death
Dark Overlord (Now this guy knows what he's talking about)
Dead Addict
Deceptor (Palm Beach BBS)
Desert Pub'l
Dial Tone
Digital Destruction (604)
Eights
Elric of Imrryr
Exilic Xyth
Ford Prefect
Franz Liszt
Future Spy
Garbled User
George Hayduke
Ghost Wind
Gin Fizz/2600 Club!/TPM
Grey Wolf.
Halifax
Heracles (B.O.U.)
Hook
Ingy (The Commanders)
Jack The Ripper (OC)
Joe Hunt
Johnney Rotten (A Cryptic Criminals/Elite Justice Society Presentation)
Kato
Keith Blackwell
Killer Kurt
King Arthur
Knight Hack
Knight Lightning (Phrack _IS_ cool!)
Kurt Saxon (Never found a full copy of your book..)
Lazarus Long
Lex Luthor
Maelmord?
Man-Tooth
Marlboro Reds
Megadeth
Mr. "Budman" Zeek ("Hi-Tec" Terrorists/Portland Apple Corp.)
Mr. Flay Sepulcrast
NY Hacker (New York Underground Association)
Ninja NYC/TPM
Overkill
Phucked Agent!
Prof.Flay Sepulcrast of SRI (Who still can't play pool for shit)
Professor Falken
RIPPER
Ragner Rocker
Reverend L.E. Pirate
Robert T Martinott
SS-BADMAN (Kingdom of the Dead II)
Saint Anarchy/D.O.A.
Samhain
Shadow Hawk 1
Signal Sustain
Silicon Phreaker
Sir Knight
Slash (WCC)
Slayer
Sterling
The 3rd Reich
The Billionaire Boys Club
The Blade (A Neon Knight Presentation)
The Blitz
The Butler
The Byte Byter (Metal Communications)
The Chemist
The Cheshire Cat
The DARK LORDS OF CHAOS
The DETH VEGETABLE
The FBI
The FLYING HERMIT
The Fighting Falcon
The Flying Hermit (A Dead Cat Whisker Production)
The GRAY MOUSER
The Ghost
The Gremlin (United Federation of Pirates)
The Happy Hacker
The High Lord Satan
The Ice-Man
The Leftist
The LockSmith
The Lockpic
The Metallain
The Misfits
The Mortician
The Necrophiliac & The Necrophobic
The Neon Knights
The Ninja Warrior
The Paper Tiger
The Pirates of Puget Sound
The Prime Anarchist
The Prisoner
The Pyro
The REFLEX
The Rebel Warhead
The Rocker (Metallibashers Inc.)
The SCREAMER
The Sentinel
The Team at CERT, and SERT (NOT!)
The Undead Warrior
The Wave
Walkon (Temple of the Un-Dead)
X Calibur
XTX-101
Warp 9
Zandar Zan
Zaphod Beeblebrox (mpg)
^^^NIGHTWING^^^
el Pirata' (computer rat software)
and Steve Wozniak even though he's a wimp!
Greetings go to:
Quarrel - Hmmmm....
Technopath - Chuckle Chuckle
Zer0 - The name says it all =]
Satan - SAtAn lOvEs yOu!
Purpleman- See above!
Rohan - Bring the notes!
Rokstar - Devestation Phase One (Dead but not forgotten!)
TriZap - You didn't tell me you wrote an article for Phrack...
Jorrem Almighty (Malicious Damage) - Your magazine sucks, but hey.. =]
Nosdivad - Bad luck, dude.
Datalore - Ahh... remember the days..
Equinoxe - Why ?
Crimson - Why not?
and to the boards:
Burning Crime
Millenium
Fuckings go out to:
Dhrystone/Prof. Kraq "Bite the mattress" - Get a hair cut!
Ratter "Bend over and I'll drive" - Beware of room service!
The Paddle Pop Lion and the Hair Bear Bunch - Get a hair cut!
If any article appearing in this publication was indeed written by
you and fails to or incorrectly mentions your handle, either:
(a) We got the file from some fucking lamer like the Jolly Roger who
plagerized you!
(b) Our copy of the file failed to credit you (corrupted file, source)..
(c) Error on our part! (Nahh!)
0.0 PROLOGUE
This work is the culmination of hundreds of authors (mostly anonymous)
who have contributed articles relating to anarchy throughout the underground,
either contributing to some 'zine or just posting text files. We at SRI
(Stealth Research Incorporated) got pissed off one day when trying to remember
where some fucking recipe was, and having to search through piles of half
corrupted disks and heaps of paper, so we decided that we should organise
some of the recipes in some decent order. Well, one thing lead to the next
and I guess we must have been really bored because soon we ended up with
something quite perverse. The book's style was based on the 'New Compleat [sic]
Terrorist' by Gunzenbombz Pyro-Technologies because the author seemed to
have a reasonable index although he couldn't spell for shit.
The Compleat [sic] Terrorist was basically some pile of text files
leeched from Ripco (which died in Operation Sundevil). The author (un-named)
printed out two copies of that file (177K) which he gave to friends, but
lost the original in a hard drive crash. I don't know what happened then, but
somehow on August 8th at 1AM in some year (probably '90 or '91) he found a
copy on some BBS somewhere and began 'The New Compleat [sic] Terrorist'.
I (Hook) then basically got even anarchy file I could get my hands on
and added it to this book, and that's where we are now. I'll keep adding to it
as I get new files... I don't know how this will be done because we are also
producing a PostScript version of this book.
Some of the stuff I found, such as half the stuff that The Jolly Roger
didn't rip off was pretty lame, but I included it anyway for the sake of
completeness. If you don't think you can handle RDX, you can always go and
make a chlorine bomb.. =]
Anyway, have fun, and don't kill yourself too badly.
19.9.93 Anarchy et Discordiae Volume 1 (The Tome of Destruction)
Fuck Yeah! Six Months Later Anarchy et Discordiae is due for
typesetting by Evasif.. Ahhh I can hardly wait!
0.5 DISCLAIMER
Sheesh. Why the fuck does everyone have a disclaimer when they
write these files. What is their problem ? What are they afraid of ? Is some
idiot going to blow his hand off and then take 'Captain Anarchy' to court ?
I can see it now, "Captain Anarchy made me do it!". Do it. Go ahead.
It's pretty funny how everything in this book can be derived from
household ingredients, isn't it? Well, I guess I'd better say it now,
I do not encourage you to
(a) take this book too seriously.
(b) trust any of the recipes (I haven't even tried all of them).
(c) make anything in this book.
Gee wow, did you know I have to say something like that to pass
begin totally censored if I decide to publish ?
But I guess, I can't really stop you if you do, not that I'd want to, either.
Moral of the story:
Never bother reading disclaimers, they all suck.
Corrollary:
You suck.
Oh yeah, one more thing. Distribution. We're all for freedom of
information and all that jazz, but use a little discretion in who you give
a copy of this to. Like, avoid street kids, total lunatics or other social
deviants who would go completely off the rails. Anarchy is cool when WE do
it, not on the other end. We don't want the rest of the world getting as
totally fucked up as the US, do we ? =] =]
I'll probably change this fucking stupid disclaimer when I get the chance.
(c) Version 1.0, 27th July 1993 Australia.
All Rights Completely Fucked Up.
... have nuke, will travel ...
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1.1 Table of Contents
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
1.2 ....... Chemical Safety
2.0 ....... BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 ........ Black Powder
2.011 ........ Black Powder Compositions
2.02 ........ Pyrodex
2.03 ........ Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 ........ Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 ........ Flash Powder
2.06 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ....... ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.2 ....... LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.21 ....... Chemical Descriptions
2.3 ....... PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 ........ Nitric Acid
2.32 ........ Sulfuric Acid
2.33 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
2.331 ........ The REFLEX's Preparation
2.34 ........ Charcoal
2.35 ........ Chlorine Gas
2.36 ........ Sulphur
2.37 ........ Oxygen Gas
2.38 ........ Hydrogen Gas
2.39 ........ Hematite (Iron Oxide or Rust)
2.40 ........ Picric Acid (Also 3.38)
2.41 ........ Sodium Chlorate (Potassium Chlorate Replacement)
2.42 ........ Nitrous Oxide (SEE 7.6 - Laughing Gas)
2.43 ........ Iodine
3.0 ....... EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 ........ Explosives, a foreword from Today's Chemist
3.02 ........ Explosive Theory
3.03 ........ Relative Sensitivity, Power and Velocity Table of Explosives
3.1 ....... IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 ........ Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 ........ Mercury Fulminate
3.121 ........ Additional Notes on Mercury Fulminate
3.122 ........ Lockpic/Blitz Method 1
3.123 ........ Lockpic/Blitz Method 2
3.124 ........ Method 3
3.125 ........ Method 4
3.126 ........ Method 5
3.13 ........ Nitroglycerine
3.131 ........ Heracle's Recipe
3.132 ........ King Arthur's Recipe
3.14 ........ Picrates
3.15 ........ PeroOxyacetone
3.151 ........ PeroOxyacetone, Zaphod Beeblebrox's Recipe
3.16 ........ Nitrogen Triiodide Crystals
3.161 ........ NI3, El Pirata's Recipe
3.162 ........ NI3, Zaphod Beeblebrox's Recipe
3.163 ........ NI3, Method 4
3.164 ........ Working Notes on NI3
3.165 ........ Comprehensive NI3 Recipe
3.17 ........ Phosphorus/Sodium Chlorate Mix
3.2 ....... LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 ........ Black Powder
3.211 ........ Black Powder, Granpa's Recipe
3.212 ........ Gun Powder, Deceptor's Recipe
3.213 ........ Notes on Gun Powder
3.214 ........ Processing Gun Powder
3.22 ........ Nitrocellulose
3.221 ........ Gun Cotton
3.23 ........ Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 ........ Perchlorates
3.25 ........ Bulk Powders
3.26 ........ French Ammonal
3.261 ........ Ammonal
3.27 ........ Red or White Powder Propellant
3.28 ........ Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder
3.29 ........ Gun Powder
3.3 ....... HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 ........ R.D.X. [Cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine] - (Cyclonite,Hexagon,T4)
3.311 ........ Additional Notes on RDX
3.312 ........ Composition B
3.313 ........ Composition C4
3.314 ........ Pentolite
3.315 ........ Jack the Rippers (CIA Snarfed) RDX Recipe
3.32 ........ T.N.T.
3.321 ........ Preparation of TNT
3.322 ........ The Screamer's Preparation of TNT
3.323 ........ Another Preparation of TNT
3.33 ........ DYNAMITE
3.331 ........ Additional Notes on Dynamite
3.332 ........ Guhr Dynamite
3.333 ........ Extra-Dynamite
3.334 ........ Table Of Dynamite Formulae
3.335 ........ Table Of More Dynamite Formulae
3.336 ........ Master Dynamite Formulae
3.337 ........ American Dynamite
3.338 ........ "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite (c)1896"
3.339 ........ King Arthur's Table of Dynamite
3.34 ........ OTHER
3.341 ........ Ammonium Nitrate
3.342 ........ ANFOS
3.343 ........ Potassium Chlorate
3.344 ........ Nitrostarch Explosives
3.345 ........ Picric Acid (Also 2.40)
3.346 ........ Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.347 ........ Nitrogen Trichloride
3.348 ........ Lead Azide
3.3481 ........ Lead Azide Booby Trap
3.349 ........ Di-NitroNapthalene
3.350 ........ PETN - Pentaerythrite Tetranitrate - (penta, niperyth, penthrit)
3.351 ........ Amatol
3.352 ........ Tetrytol
3.353 ........ Fertiliser/Liquid Hydrazine Explosive
3.354 ........ Acetone/Peroxide Explosive
3.46 ........ FILLER EXPLOSIVES
3.461 ........ Improvised Plastic Explosive Filler
3.462 ........ Quick Filler Explosive
3.463 ........ Plastic Explosive Filler II
3.47 ........ ROCKET FUELS
3.471 ........ Nitromethane Formulae (Rocket Fuel)
3.472 ........ Nitromethane "Solid" Explosive (Flame Fuel)
3.473 ........ ASTROLITE
3.4731 ........ Astrolite G
3.4732 ........ Astrolite A/A-1-5
3.474 ........ Common Rocket Fuel
3.475 ........ Rocket Fuel 2
3.5 ....... OTHER "EXPLOSIVES" or EXPLOSIVE WEAPONS
3.51 ........ Thermite
3.511 ........ Notes on Thermite
3.512 ........ Additional Notes on Thermite
3.513 ........ Thermite, X Calibur's Recipe
3.514 ........ More Thermite
3.515 ........ Thermite Applications
3.520 ....... Bottled Gas Explosives
3.521 ....... Spray Bottle Flamethrower
3.5211 ....... Spray Bottle Flamethrower II
3.522 ....... Blast Oil
3.523 ....... Napalm
3.5231 ....... Napalm, Doctor Dissector's Recipe
3.5232 ....... Napalm, Lex Luthor's Recipe
3.524 ....... Incendiary Brick
3.525 ....... Fire Fudge
3.526 ....... Flammability of Gases
3.527 ....... Incendiary Mixture
3.528 ....... A Standard Plastic Explosive
3.529 ....... Snowball
3.530 ....... Overnight Aluminium Killer
3.531 ....... Chemically Ignited Explosives
3.532 ....... Unstable Explosive
3.533 ....... Medium Explosive
3.534 ....... Plastic Explosive
3.535 ....... Grain Elevator Explosion
3.536 ....... Hot Stuff Aluminium Killer
3.537 ....... Firelighter
3.538 ....... GELLED FLAME FUELS
3.5381 ....... Lye Systems
3.5382 ....... Lye-Alcohol Systems
3.5383 ....... Soap-Alcohol Systems
3.5384 ....... Egg White Systems
3.5385 ....... Wax Systems
3.539 ....... HTH/Brake Fluid Incendiary
3.540 ....... Percussion Explosives
3.541 ....... Moulded Brick that Burns
3.542 ....... Chlorate/Sugar Mix
3.543 ....... Potassium Permanganate/Sugar Mix
3.544 ....... Super Bottle Rockets
3.6 ....... IMPROVISED OR SUPERMARKET EXPLOSIVES
3.61 ........ Explosive from match heads
3.62 ........ Quick formula for high explosive
3.63 ........ Gunpowder replacements (for the anarchist in a jam)
3.64 ........ Improvised Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze
3.65 ........ Improvised Plastique Explosive from Aspirin
3.66 ........ Improvised Plastique Explosive from Bleach
3.67 ........ Improvised Plastique From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound
3.68 ........ Chlorate Mixtures
3.69 ........ Improvised Napalm
3.7 ....... ATOMIC and NUCLEAR WEAPONS
3.71 ....... Construction Project: Atomic Bomb
3.81 ....... The History of the Atomic Bomb
3.82 ....... Nuclear Fission/Nuclear Fusion
3.83 ....... The Mechanism of The Bomb
3.84 ....... The Diagram of the Atomic Bomb
4.0 ....... USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 ....... SAFETY
4.2 ....... IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 ........ Fuse Ignition
4.211 ........ Sulphured Wick Fuse
4.212 ........ Blackmatch Fuse
4.213 ........ Fuse Paper
4.214 ........ Quick Wicks (when you're in a jam)
4.215 ........ Slow Burning Fuse (2" per minute)
4.216 ........ Fast Burning Fuse (40" per minute)
4.217 ........ Blackmatch and Quickmatch Fuses
4.218 ........ Commercial Safety Fuses
4.219 ........ Fire Cracker Fuse
4.22 ........ Impact Ignition
4.23 ........ Electrical Ignition
4.231 ........ Flashbulb Electric Fuse
4.232 ........ Electric Ignition Fuse
4.24 ........ Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.241 ........ Mercury Switches
4.242 ........ Tripwire Switches
4.243 ........ Radio Control Detonators
4.244 ........ Clothespin Switch
4.245 ........ Flexible Plate Switch
4.25 ........ Detonators
4.251 ........ Mini Compound Detonators
4.26 ........ Igniters
4.261 ........ Sulphur and Aluminium Igniter
4.262 ........ Potassium Chlorate and Sugar Igniter
4.3 ....... DELAYS
4.31 ........ Fuse Delays
4.32 ........ Timer Delays
4.33 ........ Chemical Delays
4.331 ........ Chemical Time Delay Fuses
4.4 ....... EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 ........ Paper Containers
4.42 ........ Metal Containers
4.43 ........ Glass Containers
4.44 ........ Plastic Containers
4.5 ....... ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 ........ Shaped Charges
4.52 ........ Tube Explosives
4.53 ........ Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 ........ Landmines
4.541 ....... More Landmines
4.55 ........ Mini Claymore Mine
4.6 ....... BOMBS
4.61 ....... DISGUISED BOMBS
4.611 ....... Lightbulb Bombs
4.6112 ....... Lightbulb Bomb, Mojo/Smith Method
4.6113 ....... Lightbulb Bomb, Shadowhawk Method
4.6114 ....... Napalm Lightbulb Bomb
4.612 ....... Book Bombs
4.613 ....... Phone Bombs
4.614 ....... The Fiery Explosive Pen
4.615 ....... Letter Bomb (Thermite-Based)
4.616 ....... Tennis Ball Bomb
4.620 ...... Carbide Bomb
4.621 ...... Mercury Battery Bomb
4.622 ...... Milk Carton Bomb
4.623 ...... MacGyver Fertiliser Bomb
4.624 ...... Fire Bomb
4.625 ...... Chlorox-Draino Bomb
4.626 ...... Dry Ice Bombs
4.627 ...... Electric Break-Contacts Bomb
4.628 ...... Propane/Butane Bomb
4.629 ...... Peanut Butter Bomb
4.630 ...... The BIC (Lighter) Bomb
4.631 ...... The Gerbil Feed Bomb
4.632 ...... The SAFEr Carbide Bomb
4.633 ...... "Deadman's Switch" Soda Can Bomb
4.634 ...... Chlorine Bombs
4.635 ...... LN2, Liquid Nitrogen Bomb
4.636 ...... Paper Bomb
4.637 ...... The Bulb Bomb (Really Cool)
4.638 ...... Aceltylene Balloon Bomb
4.639 ...... Bolt Bomb
4.640 ...... Shotgun Shell Bomb
4.641 ...... Flour Bombs (Flammable!)
4.642 ...... Chemical Time-Delayed Bomb
4.643 ...... Match Head Bomb
4.644 ...... Fire Bombs
4.645 ...... Letter Box Bomb (aka Standard Chlorine Bomb)
4.646 ...... Tennis Ball Bomb
4.647 ...... Paint Bombs
4.648 ...... CO2 Bomb
4.649 ...... Solidox Bomb
4.650 ...... Radio Bomb
4.651 ...... Poison Gas Bomb
4.652 ...... The Destructor
4.7 ....... PIPE BOMBS
4.71 ........ Standard Pipe Bombs
4.72 ........ Vinegar/Baking Soda Pipe Bomb
4.73 ........ Acid/Parafin Pipe Bomb
4.74 ........ Soft Drink Can Bomb
4.75 ........ Real Pipe Bomb
4.76 ........ Canister Pipe Bomb
4.77 ........ Generic Pipe Bomb
4.78 ........ Minature Pipe Bomb
4.79 ........ Powerful Pipe Bomb
4.8 ....... GRENADES
4.81 ........ Molotov Cocktails
4.811 ........ Molotov Cocktail, GaRbLeD uSeR's Recipe
4.812 ........ Incediary Time Delayed Molotov Cocktail
4.82 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle
4.821 ........ Chemical Fire Bottle, El Pirata's Recipe
4.83 ........ Nail Grenade
4.84 ........ Expedient Grenade
4.85 ........ Napalm Grenade
4.86 ........ Force Grenade
4.87 ........ Death Grenade
4.88 ........ Fire Grenade
4.89 ........ Death Grenade II
4.90 ........ Force Grenade II
4.91 ........ Small Grenade
4.92 ........ Carbide Grenade
4.93 ........ Shotgun Shell Impact Grenade
4.94 ........ Jack Daniels Fire Bottle
5.0 ....... SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 ........ BLOWGUNS
5.111 ........ Blowgun Ammunition
5.112 ........ Blowgun and Ammunition
5.113 ........ How to make Blowgun Darts
5.12 ........ Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.13 ........ Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.14 ........ Exploding Arrows
5.15 ........ Pocket Rockets
5.2 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 ........ Handgun Ammunition
5.22 ........ Shotguns
5.23 ........ Exploding Bullets
5.24 ........ Pipe or Zip Guns
5.25 ........ Low Signature Systems (Silencers)
5.3 ....... PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 ........ .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 ........ .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ....... ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ....... ROCKETS
6.11 ........ Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 ........ Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 ........ Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.14 ........ Rocket Fuels
6.15 ........ Rocket Tubes and YOU!
6.16 ........ Portable Grenade Launcher
6.2 ........ CANNONS
6.21 ........ Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 ........ Rocket-Firing Cannon
6.23 ........ Tennis Ball Cannon
6.24 ........ Home Brew Blast Cannon
7.0 ....... PYROTECHNICA AND CHEMICAL ERRATA
7.1 ......... Smoke Bombs
7.11 ......... Smoke Bomb, 4lbs per City Block recipe
7.12 ......... Sulphur Smoke/Stink Bomb
7.13 ......... Zinc/Sulphur Smoke
7.14 ......... Chlorine/Trupentine Smoke
7.15 ......... Pool Chlorine Smoke
7.16 ......... Smoke Bomb, Alpine Kracker's recipe
7.17 ......... Sugar/Potassium Nitrate Smoke Bomb
7.2 ......... Coloured Flames
7.3 ......... Tear Gas
7.31 ......... 'Good Time' Tear Gas
7.32 ......... Tear Gas II
7.4 ......... FIREWORKS
7.401 ........ Casings and Glues
7.402 ........ Rolling Casings
7.403 ........ Use of Chlorates
7.41 ......... Firecrackers
7.411 ......... The "GIANT" class firecracker
7.42 ......... Skyrockets
7.43 ......... Roman Candles
7.44 ......... Serpents
7.45 ......... Smokes
7.46 ......... Whistling Fireworks
7.47 ......... Coloured Flames
7.48 ......... Basic Coloured Fireworks
7.49 ......... Stars, Flares and Colour Mixtures
7.5 .......... OTHER
7.51 ......... Mace Substitute
7.52 ......... Laughing Gas
7.521 ......... Laughing Gas II
7.53 ......... Green Goddess
7.54 ......... Nitrate Compound
7.55 ......... BIC Ballistics
7.56 ......... Cherry Bomb
7.57 ......... How to make a m80 Factory!
7.58 ......... Flash Powder
7.59 ......... Touch Paper
7.60 ......... Self Igniting Mixtures
7.61 ......... Salutes
8.0 ....... LOCK PICKING
8.01 ........ Techniques for Picking Locks
8.02 ........ More Techniques for Making and Using Lockpicks
8.03 ........ The Construction and Use of Various Lockpicks
8.04 ........ El Cheapo Zig Zag Lockpick
8.05 ........ alt.locksmith FAQ
8.06 ........ Lock Picking
8.07 ........ The Art of Lockpicking
8.10 ........ COMBINATION LOCKS
8.11 ......... Finding the Combination on Master Locks
8.12 ......... Picking Combination Locks
8.15 ........ BREAKING and ENTERING
8.151 ........ B 'n E Check List
8.2 ........ LOCKS and PHYSICAL SECURITY by Sterling
8.21 ......... Key Operated Locks
8.211 ......... Latches
8.212 ......... The Warded Lock
8.213 ......... The Lever Lock
8.214 ......... The Wafer (Disc) Tumbler Lock
8.215 ......... The Pin Tumbler Lock
8.216 ......... Tubular Cylinder Locks
8.22 ......... Lockpicking Tools
8.221 ......... The Basic Picks
8.222 ......... Making Your Own Picks
8.223 ......... Purchasing Picks
8.23 ......... Attitude and Tips for Success
8.24 ......... Other Security Devices
8.241 ......... Combination Locks
8.242 ......... Magnetic Locks
8.243 ......... Simplex Locks
8.244 ......... Automotive Protection Systems
8.245 ......... The Marlock System
8.246 ......... VingCard Locks
8.247 ......... Electronic Hotel Card Locks
8.248 ......... Alarm Systems
9.0 ....... ELECTRONICS PROJECTS
9.10 ........ RADIO
9.11 ........ FM wireless Bug
9.12 ........ Lunchbox Transmitter
9.13 ........ Lunchbox Receiver
9.14 ........ The Infinity Transmitter
9.20 ........ WEAPONS
9.21 ......... The StunGun: Offensive and Defensive Strategies & Modifications
9.22 ......... The ShockRod
9.30 ........ TELEPHONE
9.31 ......... Telephone Operated Tape Recorder
9.40 ........ MISCELLANEOUS
9.41 ......... Electronic Torch
9.42 ......... Ultra-Quick Disk/VCR Trasher
9.43 ......... Garage Door Opener
10.0 ...... FUN
10.1 ....... Fun Things to do with Cars
10.11 ....... Basic Tactics of Car Destruction
10.12 ....... How to Blow Up a Car, A Diffent Way
10.13 ....... Car Thrashing
10.14 ....... Blowing Up a Car
10.15 ....... CAR MODIFICATIONS
10.151 ....... Napalm Petrol Tank
10.152 ....... Exhaust Pipe Ooze
10.153 ....... Draino Pillbox
10.154 ....... Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
10.155 ....... Installing a Smoke Screen
10.16 ....... The Modern Speeder's Guide to Radar and the Police
10.17 ....... The Radar Guidebook
10.18 ....... Fun Things to do to Send a Car to Hell
10.19 ....... Highway Radar Jamming
10.21 ....... Fun Things to do with Pools
10.22 ....... Fun Things to do with Libraries
10.23 ....... Fun Things to do at K-Mart
10.24 ....... Fun Things to do with Alarms
10.25 ....... Fun Things to do at School
10.26 ....... Fun Things to do with Dry Ice
10.27 ....... Fun Things to do on the Last Day of School
10.28 ....... Fun Things to do to disrupt School Assemblies
10.29 ....... Fun Things to do with Traffic Lights
10.30 ....... How to Steal a Dumpster
10.31 ....... How to Lock Someone in Their Own House!
10.32 ....... Fun Things to do with a BIC Lighter
10.33 ....... Fun Things to do in Rural Towns
10.34 ....... How to Fuck up the World
10.35 ....... Fun Things to do in the Vast Malls of Surburbia
10.36 ....... Fun Things to do at McDonalds
10.37 ....... Fun Things to do at School II (Do you hate school ?)
10.38 ....... Fun Things to do with Phones
10.39 ....... Fun Things to do at Airports
10.40 ....... Fun Things to do with Animals
11.0 ...... PEOPLE SKILLS
11.1 ....... POISON
11.11 ....... Ninja Recipe
11.12 ....... Nicotine Sulfate
11.13 ....... Poison Pen
11.2 ....... ASSASINATION
11.21 ....... Getting others to Commit Suicide
11.22 ....... Some Interesting Ways to Kill a Friend (Or Enemy)
11.23 ....... Born to Kill - The Art of Assassination (Part I)
11.24 ....... Assasination Made Easy
11.25 ....... The Eleven Commandments of Revenge
11.3 ....... REVENGE
11.31 ....... Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even
11.32 ....... How to get Revenge on Someone
11.4 ....... CREATING A NEW IDENTITY
11.41 ....... False ID
11.42 ....... How to Create a New Identity
11.5 ....... SURVEILLANCE AND INVESTIGATION
11.51 ....... Investigating People
11.52 ....... The State of Surveillance (Telephone/Audio/Video Bugging)
11.6 ....... COMBAT TECHNIQUES
11.61 ....... Basic Hand to Hand Combat Techniques
11.62 ....... Jungle Survival
11.7 ....... MISCELLANEOUS ANARCHY
11.71 ....... Basic Anarchy
11.72 ....... Hypnotism
11.73 ....... Operation FuCkUp!
12.0 ...... FRAUD
12.1 ....... Ripping off Change Machines
12.2 ....... How to Counterfeit
12.3 ....... How to Rip Off Payphones
12.4 ....... Making Vending Machine Keys
Appendix A: LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
Appendix B: CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
Appendix C: USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
1.2 !!!!!! Safety With Chemicals !!!!!!
Author: Anesthesia, (our protector)
Something that really bothers me is listening to someone that plays
with chemicals and doesn't have a clue as to what they are doing. I've been
flashed several times myself as well as burned my hair several times.
Chemicals are dangerous things if you don't know what they do! [Even if you
do - they still are! - Daiv] I would like to offer some help for those who
wish to experiment but are unsure of their ability or don't know where to
start.
Since most people reading this text file also read other text files,
that makes me think this is where they would like to learn these things.
Always remember that anyone can put one of these out, and just because
someone puts out a file, does NOT mean they know what they are doing.
Your library is your best friend in this case! Before trying any
experiment, research the items involved to assure that the people involved
didn't leave anything out. (i.e., the fact that mixing the dry, red
phosphorous, dry sulphur, and dry potassium chlorate will cause it to
immediately explode, but when moist, it is safe to mix.)
For those of you lucky enough to still be in high school, take a
chemistry class. (This goes for those interested parties in college as
well!) [Lotta exclaims there, Anesthesia - Daiv] You will enjoy it and
something you learn there may just save you life and/or limbs later. I've
also found it's one of the best ways to obtain some hard to find
ingredients.
Always be sure to read the instructions completely and assure you
have the correct items on hand to complete the project in one shot. Some
recipes won't wait for you to find the appropriate items. Also, never
substitute something 'close' in a project unless it is specifically listed
as a substitute.
[A guy I know, Felo De Se (FDS), once used a smoke bomb recipe and
ended up torching his face and kitchen, because he used ground rocket cells
in place of potassium nitrate (aka saltpeter). - Daiv]
There are ten important rules for chemistry safety that should always
be followed. These are:
1. Never store chemicals for extended periods.
2. Never store chemical combinations for any length of time.
3. Work in a cool, well-ventilated area.
4. Keep sources of heat and electricity away from the work area.
5. Keep the number of people in the work area to a minimum.
6. Keep materials far apart.
7. Use a respirator while working.
8. Wear safety goggles.
9. Wear as much protective, rubber clothing as possible.
10. Have appropriate fire-fighting equipment available and large
volumes of water.
[Ed- Futhermore here are some precautions to LIVE by: ]
Here is a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read 'em and MEMORIZE
'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules that always
apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about the
materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly before
starting anything.
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature,
unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction.
A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the
handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are
to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the
following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
hose, etc.)
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each file, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
this stuff lightly.
1.3 Introduction to Home Explosive Manufacture
Author: Franz Liszt
From: P/HUN Issue #4, Volume 2: Phile 5 of 11
Feb. 20, 1989
Basically:
- Learn Chemistry, at school, uni, etc.
- NEVER trust any recipe.
Only consider reputable texts such as "The Poor Man's James Bond I
& II", the "CIA Black Books", and army field manuals. I also ran across
some new books called "Kitchen Improvised Explosives", which can be
had from a radical book company called LOOMPANICS UNLIMITED They are
also a very good source for information but the procedures outlined
require more lab apparatus.
If you know a little about chemistry, get the book "The
Chemistry of Powder and Explosives" by Tenny L. Davis.
EXPLOSIVE TYPES
Basically, there are two types - low and high. The low explosives
are chemical compounds such as black powder, flash powder, match head
powder, etc. These compounds do not necessarily explode but have more of a
burning characteristic. They will propagate into an explosion when confined
in a solid container such as a "pipe-bomb" so the gases they produce can
expand forcefully instead of burning away in the open air. Black powder for
instance detonates at about 300 meters per second, which roughly means if
you make a "train" or line of it 300 meters long, and detonate it with a
blasting cap at one end of the train, the chain reaction and decomposition
of the whole train will take one second. And black powder releases about
12000 PSI when confined in nominal 2" water pipe with a wall thickness of
1/8" and detonated with a No. 8 blasting cap (this is a standard size
blasting cap that coal miners and the military uses). Notice I said that it
must be detonated. You cannot just stick a wick in the pipe and light it
because more that likely it will only burn and make a big fire. I will talk
more about detonation later. 2,4,6-Trinitrotoluene (TNT) detonates at about
7400 meters per second when cast loaded into a container. TNT is a high
explosive and its subsequential confinement in a container is not as
important as with low explosives. High explosives are chemical compounds
that will explode regardless of containment. You could lay a big pile of
TNT on the ground, lay a blasting cap on top of it, light the wick, and the
whole mess will still explode. High explosives undergo a chemical reaction
of decomposition in less that a millionth of a second. All of the energy
is released instantaneously. Low explosives, such as black powder have more
of a burning characteristic. High explosives not only detonate much
quicker, but also release more energy. TNT releases about 4.24 million PSI
and the military explosive C-4 releases about 5.7 million PSI and detonates
at 8100 meters per second!
DETONATION
Most high explosives are not capable of detonating without being
set off or initiated with another explosion. This is done with the help of
those neat little goodies called blasting caps. They contain medium to high
explosives also, but their chemical composition(s) are unstable and will
detonate when fire or spark is introduced to them. You may ask then why not
just use blasting cap explosive instead of regular high explosives. Well,
blasting cap materials are VERY sensitive to shock, friction, etc. and are
also not as efficient as regular high explosives.
Anyway, the blasting cap is usually placed in the high explosive in
a well dug in the high explosive. An example would be like this in a pipe
bomb:
_______ Blasting cap
/
!-- * --!
! * !
! * !
! !_____ Pipe bomb
! !
! !
! !
! !
!-------!
(please excuse the ASCII drawing)
When the cap is detonated, the explosive wave it generates is directed
downward and detonates the high explosive in a "chain reaction".
This is why the bottom of the explosive container should be placed on
the target. The peak of the propagated explosive wave will be at the
bottom of the explosive charge...
At any rate, I do not suggest that one attempts to manufacture blasting
caps without knowledge in explosive handling safety and also the proper
laboratory procedures when making the blasting cap explosive itself.
I have made over 300 blasting caps without an accident. I also take very
careful precautions before assembling the caps and I have a properly
equipped laboratory to synthesize the explosive material. I always work
in a controlled environment with accurate measuring equipment for any
explosive experiment I partake in. It is necessary to work under a lab
fume hood to vent any toxic gases produced during experiments. It is also
a good idea to ground yourself and your work area so static electricity
doesn't wreak havoc and blow your chemical up in your face.
IT IS GOSPEL TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS WHEN DOING ANY EXPERIMENT. ESPECIALLY
WITH EXPLOSIVES. Outline your explosive production procedure before
proceeding with any experiment.
Refer to literature at your local library concerning blasting cap mfg.
before you attempt to make them. The book I mentioned "The Chemistry of
Powder and Explosives" covers the subject very well. There are also some
good books available from Paladin Press on explosive manufacture and the
blasting cap manufacture.
It is possible to create blasting caps in a "kitchen" type environment,
but I do not recommend it because of the dangers involved when making
the explosive components. Many of the starting materials are corrosive
and toxic. Blasting cap explosives are also VERY sensitive. More so than
nitroglycerine in some cases. For instance, Lead azide, the most popular
blasting cap explosive today, when synthesized improperly, can grow into
crystals in the starting agent solution and spontaneously explode just
because of improper stirring and/or cooling. Very easy mistake to do.
Mercury fulminate, one of the cheapest and easiest to synthesize,
produces toxic gases when synthesizing. When the finished product is dry,
it is sensitive to a 2cm drop of a 5 lb. weight. THAT IS SENSITIVE!
ALTERNATIVE:
After all of this negative talk of blasting caps leaves much to be
desired. But there is an alternative to using blasting caps if one has
access to firecrackers such as M-80's, M-100's, M-200's, cherry bombs,
Maroons, etc. These little bombs themselves are sufficient enough to
detonate many high explosives. All of the "nitro" compounds will
detonate with one of these firecrackers. Their use would be the same
as the blasting cap - inserted in a little "well" made in the explosive
charge, sealing off, and their fuse ignited accordingly.
MAIN EXPLOSIVE CHARGE
This is the big working explosive. The one that does the big damage.
It should be handled with the same precautions as blasting caps, but
in many cases, can be as safe as handling fertilizer.
Some examples of common high explosives are ditching dynamite, gelatin
dynamite, ANFO (ammonium nitrate fertilizer/fuel oil), TNT, PETN, RDX,
military plastics, and even smokeless powder.
These explosives are easily made in some cases, and dangerous at the
same time. Since it is beyond the scope of this article, I must refer
everybody to your local library, the books I have mentioned, or most of
the "unusual" book publishers. Just do research in all possible material
before grabbing a book and running out, buying the chemicals, and
throwing stuff together. Get yourself a few of the "black-books", the
"Poor Man's James Bond volumes", etc. and compare them with each other.
Don't trust any unheard of publishers or books.
It goes the same for the main charge; if one doesn't have access to the
necessary chemicals, one can improvise. For instance the smokeless
powders available from gunsmith's and reloading shops contain high-
explosives such as nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine. They are called
double based propellants. An example is made by Hercules Powder co.
called "Bullseye" pistol propellant. It contains:
48% Nitroglycerine
50% Nitrocellulose
2% Flash suppressants, stabilizers, etc.
It will detonate at about 7200 meters/sec. when firmly packed in 2 inch
wide, schedule 40 hardened steel pipe. It detonates with 2,000,000 PSI
also. This should suffice for many operations.
I myself placed 1 1/2 pounds of the powder in a three pound coffee can
and detonated it with an M-80 firecracker and it left a ditch in hard
packed clay-soil about 2 feet deep and 3 feet wide! It was simply placed
on the ground with the bottom of the can down. The blast was plainly
heard indoors 1 mile away! Please if you attempt such a blast, make sure
you give yourself ample time to get at least 300 yards away and don't
detonate it near any buildings within 50-75 yards because the air-blast
will possibly crack their windows. I usually use a lit cigarette placed
on the fuse of the cap or firecracker. This will give you about 10 min.
delay depending on the temperature and wind conditions. Packing the
cigarette will give a longer delay.
Another good explosive, if you prefer a liquid explosive is a mixture of
Nitromethane and amine based compounds such as aniline, ethylenediamine,
and for anyone that can't obtain the above chemicals, regular household
ammonia will work as long as it is the clear non-detergent brand.
The Nitromethane can be had from any "speed-shop" or race car parts
supplier. It usually runs about $20 to $30 bucks a gallon. Simply mix the
two liquids: 96% nitromethane and 4% ammonia (by weight). This explosive
has the disadvantage of being somewhat insensitive. You need at least
a No. 8 blasting cap to detonate it. It only need be confined in any kind
of capped bottle and the blasting cap inserted in the neck. The blasting
cap should be dipped in wax before immersion in the liquid explosive.
Some Nitromethane manufactures add a indicator dye that turns purple when
the liquid becomes dangerously explosive. So, when you mix your ammonia
with the Nitromethane and the solution turns purple, you know that you
have done well!
OBTAINING CHEMICALS AND LAB WARE
Getting your chemicals and lab ware can present a problem in some cases.
In order to order laboratory chemicals, one must be a company, or
try to prove that you are a company. Most suppliers don't like to sell
to individuals in fear of clandestine drug and explosive manufacture.
Those same companies also can be fooled easily with homemade letterhead
also. For those of you with laser printers, the sky is the limit. If
you don't have a laser printer, you should visit your local print shop.
First, simply call the chemical companies and request for a catalog.
You must get on the phone and say something on the order of:
"Hello...this is C.B.G. Water Treatment Corp., may I speak to sales
please? I would like to order your most recent catalog..."
When you get catalogs from different companies, compare their prices
and shipping charges. Make sure you don't order a set of chemicals
where it is obvious you are making something you don't want them to know
you are making. A suspicious order would be Nitric & Sulfuric acid and
glycerine. This would be obvious that you are going to produce nitro-
glycerine. Spread out your orders and orders between companies. Also
be careful of watched chemicals. The drug enforcement agency watches
certain orders for certain chemicals. They usually say something on the
order of under the listing of the chemical entry in the catalog "only
sold to established institutions." It just so happens that certain
explosive synthesis requires the chemicals as some illicit drug
production.
Go to your local library in the reference section. Get the THOMAS REGISTER
It is a set of books that list addresses of industrial suppliers. Look
under chemicals for addresses.
I do know of one company called Emerald City Chemical in Washington.
They only require that you be at least 18 years of age. No letterhead
necessary.
I suggest staying away from Fisher Scientific, Seargent Welch, Sigma &
Aldrich Chemical companies because they are either expensive, only sell
to schools, or watch for illegal or suspicious chemical orders. I noticed
that a lot of you phreaks out there live in New York; so stay away from
City Chemical Co. I was informed that they closely watch their customers
also.
Don't make some letterhead for Jo Blow's Sewing Machine Repair and order
complicated chemicals like 2,3,7,8-tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin, bis-2-
ethylhexy-diadipate, 3,4-diaminofurazain, or pharmecitucal type chemicals
or any kind of chemical that looks like a foreign language. It looks
VERY suspicious and your address will be forwarded to your local FBI or
DEA office pronto. Nowadays you really got to watch what you order
thanks to our bleeding heart liberals worrying about kids blowing their
hands off trying to make firecrackers, or folks making controlled drugs in
their basements.
Also keep in mind that if you do decide to make yourself some bombs,
just remember NOT TO TELL ANYONE! If you tell someone, that is just the
added risk of getting caught because your "buddie" was a stool pigeon.
BELIEVE ME - chances are if you tell someone, others will find out from
gossip and you will be the alias "mad bomber" of your town. If someone
happens to see any lab equipment or if your neighbors smell any strange
chemical smells around your home, they might even think you are making
drugs, so be careful. If you tell your friends of your activities, don't
be surprised if you see a gunmetal grey Dodge Diplomat with a dozen
antennas protruding from it sitting across the street with a guy in it
watching your house with a spotting scope...
DO NOT SELL explosives to ANYONE without a licence. If they get caught,
the feds will plea-bargan with them and find out where they got the
bombs and of course your buddie will tell them so he gets a reduced
sentence. They WILL get a search warrant with no problem and proceed
to ransack your premises. I know of a person that was in a similar
situation. He didn't have any explosives in his house, but they seized
his chemicals because of the complaint filed. Subsequently, the feds
kept up pretty good surveillance on him for quite a while.
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in
order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other
grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer
grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a
plastic spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he
or she would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a
series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use
when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on
what type of device one wishes to make; obviously, it would be impracticle
to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can
purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms in
America.
2.011 Black Powders and their Compositions
Author: Doctor Dissector
From: Anarchy 'n Explosives No.1 (Vol 5)
Black powders burn either quickly or very slowly depending on the
composition of such a mixture; however, these powders produce smoke, often
great amounts, and is most useful in applications where smoke is no object.
It is the best for communicating fire and for producing a quick, hot flame.
Black powder is used in both propellant charges for shrapnel shells, in
saluting and blank fire charges, as the bursting charge of practice shells
and bombs, as a propelling charge in certain pyrotechnic pieces, and, either
with or without the admixture of other substances which modify the rate of
burning, in the time-train rings and in other parts of fuses. Below is a list
of black powders and their compositions.
(Brown)
Name Saltpeter Charcoal Sulfur
England........................ 79 (18) 3
England........................ 77.4 (17.6) 5
Germany........................ 78 (19) 3
Germany........................ 80 (20) -
France......................... 78 (19) 3
Forte.......................... 72 15 13 | Blasting
Lente.......................... 40 30 30 |- Black
Ordinaire...................... 62 18 20 | Powders
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined
to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes is
the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket engines are
composed of a single large grain of propellant. This grain is surrounded by
a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets the propellant by slitting the tube
lengthwise, and unwrapping it like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the
grey fire clay at either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is
usually done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is exceptionally
hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the grain on the widest
setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain and powder in a plastic bag,
the powder will not break apart and shatter all over. This should be done to
all the large chunks of powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder.
Rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the incredibly
powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more expensive. D engines come
in packages of three, and cost about $5.00 per package. Rocket engines are
perhaps the single most useful item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they
can be used as is, or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder
burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any
idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the
U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.
It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the
ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the
outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in
a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it
tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many
fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the
labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and
most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears
a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone
asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various
labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back
exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before
this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a
lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the
cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one
plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know
when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section 8.0, but as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another
person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an
odd hour. Don't forget the checklist provided at the end of this book.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other dangerous
compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station wagon and some
money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
_____________________________________________________________________________
acetic acid vinegar supermarkets
(3-5%)
_____________________________________________________________________________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
alcohol and iodine tincture of iodine
(47%) (4%)
_____________________________________________________________________________
alcohol,isopropyl rubbing alcohol supermarkets, pharmacy
(70 or 90% depending on brand (Do NOT Drink!)
_____________________________________________________________________________
aluminum (powdered) # bronzing powder ? painting supplies
hardware store
_____________________________________________________________________________
ammonia + CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets/7-eleven
_____________________________________________________________________________
ammonium hydroxide ammonia water photographic supplies
_____________________________________________________________________________
ammonium instant-cold paks, drug stores,
nitrate fertilizers medical supply stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
bottled gas propane stoves surplus/camping stores,
(propane, butane) lighter refills
_____________________________________________________________________________
calcium carbide carbide lamps hardware store
spieleologist supplies
science labs
(the gravel looking rocks inside)
(smells like pig shit)
_____________________________________________________________________________
carbon dioxide pressurizing fizzy drinks party supply stores
(canisters) supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
cellulose (cotton) first aid drug/medical supply stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
charcoal charcoal grills supermarkets/gardening stores
vitamins pharmacy
_____________________________________________________________________________
chlorine H.T.H. pool chlorine supermarkets
(actually) calcium hypochlorite CaC10
_____________________________________________________________________________
citric acid citrus fruit supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
epsom salts vitamins pharmacy, supermarket
_____________________________________________________________________________
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus/camping stores,
_____________________________________________________________________________
glycerine ? pharmacies/drug stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus/camping stores
methenamine (camping)
_____________________________________________________________________________
hydrogen peroxide creating bimbos pharmacy
_____________________________________________________________________________
iodine & first aid drug stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
iron (III) oxide rust painting supplies
(hematite) easy to find/make
____________________________________________________________________________
lecithin vitamins pharmacies/drug stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
magnesium firestarters surplus/camping stores
- steal from school lab
- hardware store
- chemical supply house
_____________________________________________________________________________
manganese dioxide (the black powder inside batteries)
_____________________________________________________________________________
magnesium hydroxide milk of magnesia supermarkets, pharmacy
_____________________________________________________________________________
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarket/drug stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets/hardware stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
nitrous oxide pressurizing whip cream party supply stores
(bulbs) supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate saltpetre pharmacy
It is used as a diuretic for animals
_____________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate water purification purification plants
_____________________________________________________________________________
sulfuric acid uncharged car batteries automotive stores
_____________________________________________________________________________
sulfur gardening gardening/hardware store
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store
_____________________________________________________________________________
strontium nitrate road flares surplus/auto stores,
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium bicarbonate baking soda supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium carbonate soda, soda ash, sal soda,
washing soda, or glassmaker's soda
and is used as a water softener.
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium chlorate sodium chlorate weedkillers gardening store
blowtorch (fuel ?) hardware store
(needs preparation - see 2.41)
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
for cutting torches
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium hydroxide drain cleaners e.g. Draino supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium bisulphate Sani-Flush supermarkets
(75%)
_____________________________________________________________________________
sodium chloride table salt supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
sucrose sugar supermarkets
_____________________________________________________________________________
sulphur "Flowers of Sulphur" pharmacy
used to repel ticks.
_____________________________________________________________________________
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be
at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate.
Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They
may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury
switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a
hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or
mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will
cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea
not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later
section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the
means that terrorists result to.
# You can either file down a bar of aluminum (slow), or (as i suggest)
buy aluminum filings at your local hardware shop. (if you buy the bar
use no less than 94% pure aluminum. it is called duralumin.)
Chemical Equivalency list
i.e. substitutes when in a fix. I wouldn't trust any of these too much..
acacia gum arabic
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium carbonate hartshorn
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
ammonium nitrate salt peter
ammonium oleate ammonia soap
amylacetate banana oil
barium sulfide black ash
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide ammonium salt
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
furfuraldehyde bran oil
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate epsom salts
methylsalicylate winter green oil
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium oxide sand
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulfuric acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
zinc sulfate white vitriol
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to get one
or more of the ingredients try another one. If you still can't, you
can always buy sm all amounts from your school, or maybe from various
chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a
experement for school.
2.21 Chemical Descriptions
Sodium Azide - NaN
3
This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
gently.
Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
3 2
This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
afternoon.
Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
4 3
Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
Potassium Nitrate - KNO
3
Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
burn.
Potassium Potassium
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
3 2 2
Potassium Chlorate - KClO
3
A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
Chlorate is also poisonous.
Potassium Potassium
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
3 2
Aluminum Dust (and powder) Al
Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
open flame.
An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased as
a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure (99.9%)
can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is also flammable, by
itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.
Zinc Dust Zn
Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any way suitable.
As a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of the technical or
high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which can cause lung damage. Used
in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur, as a rocket fuel.
Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
Lampblack
This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
this.
This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powdered black
dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for
special effects in fireworks.
Sulfur
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
Potassium Permanganate
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.
If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up
with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be
thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!
Gum Arabic
A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful
for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.
Sodium Peroxide
A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it
touch your skin.
Glycerine
A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get
burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
Iodine Crystals
Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses
poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches
and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and
notice the odor, you should leave the area.
Antimony Sulfide Sb S
2 3
Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which is
useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers, salutes,
etc, or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is suitable. Avoid
contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O
3 2 2
Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is
used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium
Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414
degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO )
3 2
Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are the
same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.
Dextrine
This can be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good cheap glue for
binding cases and stars in fireworks.
Lead Chloride PbCl
3
Available as a white, crystalline, poisonous powder, which melts at 501
degrees. As with all lead salts, it is not only poisonous, but the poison
accumulates in the body, so a lot of small, otherwise harmless doses can be as
bad as one large dose.
Mercurous Chloride HgCl
Also known as calomel or Mercury Monochloride. This powder will brighten an
otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by Hexachlorobenzene
for the same purpose. This is non poisonous ONLY if it is 100% pure. Never
confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which is poisonous in any purity.
Potassium Chlorate KClO
3
This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was
known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to
what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an
oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not
store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of time, as they may
explode spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K Cr O
2 2 7
Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks
and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous.
Potassium Perchlorate KClO
4
Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or
slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to make
the mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make up for
this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.
Red Gum
Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many fireworks formulas.
Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees.
Sodium Oxalate Na C O
2 2 4
Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which you should avoid
breathing.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO
3
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a
red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical, or
natural state.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO )
3 2
By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires.
Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double duty as an
oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some water from the
air.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO
4
Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it is
often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is known as
Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in fireworks.
Antimony Sulfide Sb S
2 3
Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which is
useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers, salutes,
etc, or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is suitable. Avoid
contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O
3 2 2
Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is
used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium
Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414
degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO )
3 2
Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are the
same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.
Charcoal C
A form of the element carbon. Used in fireworks and explosives as a reducing
agent. It can be purchased as a dust on up to a coarse powder. Use dust form,
unless otherwise specified. The softwood variety is best, and it should be
black, not brown.
Copper Acetoarsenite (CuO) As O Cu(C H O )
3 2 3 2 3 2 2
The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called King's Green or
Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is available as a
technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in fireworks to
add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.
Copper Chloride CuCl
2
A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous.
Copper Sulfate CuSO *5H O
4 2
Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystals or
blue powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and some agricultural supply
stores. Used as a colorizer.
Lampblack C
This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powdered black
dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for
special effects in fireworks.
Potassium Chlorate KClO
3
This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was
known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to
what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an
oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not
store mixtures containing this chemical for any length of time, as they may
explode spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K Cr O
2 2 7
Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks
and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous.
Potassium Nitrate KNO
3
Commonly called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at 400
degrees. It is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used in other
firework pieces. Available as a white powder.
Shellac Powder
An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in India. The
exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums. The
common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware stores should be
avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO
3
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a
red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical, or
natural state.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO )
3 2
By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires.
Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double duty as an
oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some water from the
air.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO
4
Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it is
often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is known as
Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in fireworks.
Sulfur S
A yellow element that acts as a reducing agent. It burns at 250 degrees, giving
off choking fumes. Purchase the yellow, finely powdered form only. Other forms
are useless without a lot of extra and otherwise unnecessary effort to powder
it.
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is the
attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know you
would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so
here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you
how Dupont does it or how the ancient Chinese did it but not how you can do
it with the resources and materials available to you. Even army manuals on
field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines
written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the
blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together
to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores,
hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very
difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable
of blowing the walls out of a building is easy.
2.31 Nitric Acid (HNO3)
- Chemical of the Month, Digital Free Press, Issue 1, No. 4
Additional Information Supplied by Anesthesia
Tenth Highest volume industrial chemical produced in the United States.
AKA: Aquas fortis, hydrogen nitrate, azotic acid, engraver's acid.
Description:
Transparent, colorless or yellowish, fuming liquid.
Uses: Manufacture of Ammonium Nitrate fertilizer, dyes, drugs, lacquers,
cellulose nitrate, nitrate salts, rubber chemicals and urethanes, ore
flotation, metallurgy, photoengraving, etching steel, reprocessing
spent nuclear fuel.
Hazards:
Highly toxic; extremely corrosive to body tissue; will cause immediate
and severe burns; will cause extensive damage to eyes and respiratory
system. Keep cool and dry.
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented. Once
again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT!!
Materials: Equipment:
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sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This
can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get
away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out
the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of
boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel
into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and
sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of
water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged car battery.
A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply remove the top of a car
battery and pour the acid into a glass container. There would probably be
pieces of lead from the battery in the acid which would have to be removed,
either by boiling or filtration. The concentration of the sulfuric acid can
also be increased by boiling it; very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster
than clean motor oil.
Or, go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid".
This should only cost about 5 dollars. What you will get is about a gallon of
dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container.
The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal
container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the
acid until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off
the hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a
glass container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap
-- no metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb
moisture from the air and become diluted.
2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large
flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place
until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must
be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from
the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY
gently to drive off the remaining water.
2.331 How to Make Ammonium Nitrate
From: The Poor Man's James Bond by Kurt Saxon
Plagerized by: THE REFLEX (Omnipotent, Inc.)
Disclaimer:
I, THE REFLEX, will accept full responsibility for any damages caused
by information obtained from this text-file. As a matter of fact, I'll let you
sue me and I'll pay. All you have to do is tell your lawyer, "It's all THE
REFLEX's fault." I'll see you when you get out of the institution.
Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This
can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.
Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It
is roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.
The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the
ratio of one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be
detonated with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try
to find another file about that crap.].
Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite
cap. The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the
fertilizer grade can be purified with distilled wood alcohol.
Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan.
Pour in enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it
until a lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow
the impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium
nitrate.
Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry
ice can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice."
Locker companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.
The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is
done carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate
behind.
The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out
of the solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are
removed from the alcohol.
The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to
dissolve any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes
the solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away.
When the last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and
reused.
The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are
harmless unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice
with your bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone]
as its cold will cause blisters.
In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap,
it must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When
completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.
2.34 PREPARATION OF CHARCOAL
Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes
in a rag and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then
strain through a tea strainer.
2.35 GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'Do NOT mix with chlorine
bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix Ammonia water with Ajax or
the like, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and
put Ajax in the bottom, then pour some Ammonia down into the bottle.
Since chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless
you use large amounts of either Ajax or Ammonia (DON'T!).
2.36 SULPHUR
Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name 'Flowers of Sulfur'.
Alternately, Nitrate of Soda can be used. It will be in the form of prills
(little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15 minutes to
drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on.
It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder.
2.37 GENERATING OXYGEN GAS
Get some Hydrogen Peroxide (from a drug store) and Manganese Dioxide
(from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give
off Oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off.
Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle.
The Oxygen will make it burst into flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will
allow things to burn better...
2.38 GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
acid (try vinegar)
reactive metal (e.g. zinc, aluminium)
OR:
2 test tubes
2 carbon electrodes (from battery)
6-12 Volt battery (or electric train transformer)
table salt (or sulphuric acid)
large bowl
wire
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will
react with that acid. This is basic high school stuff. Try vinegar (acetic acid)
with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if
you note that it is lighter than air...
Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP*. Another way of
creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves seperating
water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you
Need a 6-12 volt battery (an electric train transformer works well), two test
tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12
volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water.
Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them,
with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going
down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be
generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper
wires leading to the carbon electrodes... (The table salt is broken up into
chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while
sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide). Therefore, if you can
get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the
reaction other than making the water conduct electricity.
2.39 GENERATING HEMATITE (IRON OXIDE)
iron rod or nail
wire
dc voltage supply (e.g. electric train transformer)
glass jar or bowl
table salt
The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In layman's
terms, hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is good method of making large
quantities of rust. You will electrolise a metal rod, such as a common nail.
You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is
perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the
negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little
salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Make
sure that the wires are not touching the water or they will react and not the
iron (e.g. if the wires are copper they will corrode first).
Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, here will be a dark red
crud in the jar. filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with
a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all
turns a nice light red.
2.40 Making Picric Acid
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work
best but buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine
consistancy. To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this
powder in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will
dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that
was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a lesser amount
than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining powder out of the
alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it to evaporate in a pyrex
dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a surprising amount of
crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.
>Some info on picric acid:
>
>| Picric acid is, in fact, _very_ stable. And it's perfectly safe
>| to handle, at least concerning it's explosive properties.
>| (It is moderately poisonous).
>
>My understanding goes like this (yes, I have handled the stuff):
>As long as the crystals contain water, it is safe. Without the water,
>the stuff is extremely shock-sensitive.
Not entirely true. The point is that being wet simply keeps any
already-formed salts in solution, where they aren't much harm; or wet
(if they're not water-soluble) where they are dispersed and relatively
less dangerous. So in any case, keep it wet.
2.41 Preparation of Sodium Chlorate
The Sodium Chlorate in the weedkiller is unlikely to be more than
about 65% pure - this is not a problem if you're not worried about how quickly
it will burn as fuse paper but if you are using the fuses in a lot of wind or
are going to through them as part of a firecracker you will have to concentrate
the Sodium Chlorate and remove impurities as much as possible beforehand as
follows:
Make a saturated solution of the weedkiller (ie.dissolve as much of it
as you can in very hot water) then filter off any remaining crystals.
Then heat the solution very hot in a dish - then when crystals start
forming around the rim heat more gently and then leave to cool - after
some time u will have crystals with gunge all over them - wash them and
filter off any rubbish.
Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in most cases can
be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used
in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.
2.43 Iodine
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little
iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a
bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid
directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it.
The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should
reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works
(I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to
form nitrogen triiodide.
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