2105 lines
94 KiB
Plaintext
2105 lines
94 KiB
Plaintext
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PYRO1.TXT Preparation of Contact Explosives
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This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious
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stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you
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kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your
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body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
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treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
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Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
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'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules
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that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about
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the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
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before starting anything.
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Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,
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and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear
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understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of
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ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.
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Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:
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1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
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most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
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bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
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every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
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2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
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pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
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water before weighing the next ingredient.
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3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
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workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
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containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
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or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
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replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
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4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
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TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
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another ingredient.
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5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
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structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
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also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
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also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
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accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
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top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
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mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
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a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
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In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
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yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
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stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
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sparks or static.
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Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
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a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
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across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
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6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
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material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
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contents down.
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7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
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hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
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stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
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accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
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they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
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locked away.
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8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
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cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
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or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
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caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
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friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
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procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
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9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
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Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
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lenses and frames are not flammable.
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10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
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form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
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They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
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11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
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12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
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13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
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14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
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15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
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produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
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lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
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dust floating in the air.
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16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
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17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
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hose, etc.)
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18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
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put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
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than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
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This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
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been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
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please do not use metal in any circumstance.
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19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
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Some information will be included in each file, but look for
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whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
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thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
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20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
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forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
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21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
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half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
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or reuse any dud.
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22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
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doing and leave until it settles.
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23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
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24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
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Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
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drop them, or even handle them roughly.
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These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
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example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
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good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
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out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
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green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
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got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
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we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
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chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
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of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
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this stuff lightly.
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The contact explosives we will be describing use only a few chemicals. Some do
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need extra caution to keep from causing trouble.
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Iodine Crystals
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Though most people don't realize it, Iodine is not a brown liquid, but a
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steel-grey solid. The tincture of iodine you buy at the drugstore actually
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contains just a tiny bit of iodine dissolved in a jarful of inexpensive
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alcohol, and resold at a huge mark up. We'll be using iodine in the crystalline
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form. On contact with your skin, it will produce a dark stain that won't wash
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off with soap and water. We'll talk about removing these stains later. If it
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gets hot, it vaporizes into a purple cloud, that smells like the chlorine in a
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swimming pool. This cloud is dangerous to inhale, since it will condense in
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your lungs, and is corrosive. Since we won't need to heat this stuff, it is not
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a problem, but you should make sure that you don't let any iodine crystals
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spill onto a hot surface. If you don't touch it and keep it away from your
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face, you shouldn't have any troubles.
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Ammonium Hydroxide
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This is just good old household ammonia. Be sure to get the clear kind. The
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sudsy stuff won't be too useful. It is made from ammonia gas dissolved in
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water, and every time you open the bottle, it loses some of its strength, so be
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sure to use fresh stuff. We need it to be as strong as possible. Some of the
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formulas given here use lab grade concentrated ammonium hydroxide. It is much
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stronger than the supermarket kind, and is very unkind to skin or especially
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the eyes. It is a good idea to wear eye protection with even the supermarket
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grade. Though we don't usually worry about this when using household ammonia
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for cleaning, we usually dilute it for that. Here we'll be using it straight
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out of the bottle, and it is much more corrosive in that form. Never use this
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material if you don't have real good ventilation, as the ammonia vapors can be
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overpowering.
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Potassium Iodide
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This is a reasonably safe chemical. You get Potassium ions in some of the fruit
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you eat, and Iodide ions (usually as Sodium Iodide) are added to the table salt
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you buy at the store. So, while you don't directly eat this chemical, you do
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eat the components that make it up. Don't be scared of this stuff.
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Sodium Thiosulfate
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Otherwise known as photographic hypo. When dissolved in water, this will remove
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the iodine stains left by touching iodine crystals, and exploding contact
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explosive. Not particularly nasty stuff, but make sure to wash it off after
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cleaning yourself with it.
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General Information
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This is a powerful and highly sensitive explosive. A dust sized particle will
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make a sharp crack or popping sound. A piece the size of a pencil lead will
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produce an explosion as loud as any of the largest firecrackers or cherry
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bombs. It cannot be exploded by any means when wet, and therefore can be
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handled and applied with safety. When dry, it will explode with the touch of a
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feather, or a breath of air.
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The strength of the ammonia water you use will have a direct effect on the
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strength of the final product. If you use supermarket ammonia, the explosive
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will work, but not as spectacularly as if you use a 15% or higher (10 to 15
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molar) solution. The stronger it is, the better. You'll also need filter paper,
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and a funnel. A properly folded coffee filter will do nicely if you don't have
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the filter paper. If you're not sure how to fold filter paper, check an
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elementary chemistry textbook.
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Methods of Preparation
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1.) Granular Explosive. This is the easiest kind, and the only kind that will
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work reasonably well with supermarket ammonia. Crush enough iodine crystals to
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make a pile of powder equal to the volume of a pencil eraser. Do not grind into
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a fine powder. Put about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of strong ammonia water
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into a small container with the iodine, and seal it for about 5 to 10 minutes,
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shaking frequently. While the mixture is reacting, get your filter paper ready.
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While it is best to consult a book that shows how to do this, you take the
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circle of filter paper, fold it in half, fold it again at right angles to the
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first fold, and then open it to form a cone. Open or close it as needed to make
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it conform to the angle of the funnel, and moisten it a little to make it stick
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in place. Place the funnel over a container that will catch the waste liquid.
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Let the mixture settle long enough for the sediment to settle, and pour off as
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much of the clear liquid as possible before filtering the sediment. Pour the
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remaining liquid and sediment into the filter. The sediment (and the filter
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paper covered with it!!!) is your explosive. The small amount you have made
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will go a lot farther than you realize. Particularly if you used good strong
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ammonia. Place the explosive in an airtight leakproof pill bottle. As this
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explosive is unstable by nature, fresh amounts give better results than stale
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ones that have been sitting around for a day or so. Best results are obtained
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with small fresh batches. But as you'll see, there are a few tricks you can do
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with this material that do require it to sit for a day or more.
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The explosive should be stored and applied while wet.
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2.) Paint type explosive. This will use up a lot of iodine crystals. Make up a
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strong tincture of iodine using about 4 ounces or 1/2 measuring cup of rubbing
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alcohol, denatured alcohol, or wood alcohol. Wood alcohol is preferable. Add
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iodine crystals and shake thoroughly until no more will dissolve. Pour the
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liquid into a fruit jar. Add the ammonium hydroxide and stir the mixture until
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the mixture is a chocolate brown and shows a little of the original color of
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the iodine. The amount of ammonia necessary will depend on its strength. An
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equal volume of ammonia is usually sufficient for a 15% or higher solution. The
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solution should be filtered at once, and shouldn't ever wait more than 10 or 15
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minutes, because it starts to dissolve again.
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The explosive again should be stored and applied while wet. This material is
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chemically the same as the granular explosive, but because it was precipitated
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from a solution, it is much more finely divided, and the reaction happens
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almost simultaneously, so you can get it out before it all vanishes back into
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the solution.
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3.) Paint type #2. Dissolve 1 gram of potassium iodide in about 90cc of
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18%-22% ammonium hydroxide. Add 4 grams of pulverized iodine. A deep black
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sediment should start forming. Let stand, and stir frequently for five minutes.
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Then, filter as usual. While the potassium iodide is not an integral part of
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the chemical reaction, the dissolved potassium iodide will allow the iodine
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crystals in turn to dissolve, and its common ion effect will cause less iodine
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crystals to be wasted. Since the iodine is by far the most expensive
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ingredient, you'll save money in the long run by using it.
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Care in Handling And Storage
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Because this material is so unstable it deteriorates quickly. Don't make any
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more than you need to use in the next 24 hours. If you can't use it all
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immediately, the container you keep it in should be recapped tightly after use
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and the mouth wiped clean. The explosive can cause dark stain damage to things
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as rugs, clothing, chair seats, wallpaper, and light or clear plastics. A
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strong solution of sodium thiosulfate is effective for removing stains from
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hands and clothing before they set. Never leave the container of explosive in
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direct sunlight for more than a few minutes, as it will weaken the strength. Do
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NOT attempt to make a large explosion as it is dangerous and can cause
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deafness. All equipment used should be thoroughly washed and the used filter
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paper flushed down the toilet. Under no circumstances attempt to handle the
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dried material which is extremely explosive and hazardous. If you can avoid
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storing the material in a container at all, there will be no chance that a
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loose stopper will let the material dry out and become a potential bomb. Tiny
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bits of this can be great fun, but it has to be handled with care.
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Application
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Although largely a scientific curiosity, this explosive finds itself well
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suited for practical jokes. It may easily be painted on the bottom side of
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light switches, sprinkled on floors, painted in keyholes, pencil sharpeners,
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doorknobs and in hundreds of other unsuspected places. It is also ideal for
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catching locker thieves and desk prowlers. It will leave a dark stain on his
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hands when it explodes, and only you will know how to remove it.
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Reaction Equations
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Ammonium
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Ammonium Ammonium Nitrogen
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Iodine Hydroxide Iodide Tri Iodide Water
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3I + 5NH OH ---> 3NH I + NH NI + 5H O
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2 4 4 3 3 2
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The theoretical yield of explosive from pure iodine is 54.1% by weight. The
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remainder of the iodine may be recovered for reuse from the ammonium iodide
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waste product by evaporating the waste liquid and treating with chlorine if a
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chemistry lab is available. The contact explosive is Ammonium Nitrogen
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Tri-Iodide, which explodes into iodine, nitrogen, and ammonia.
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Ammonium
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Nitrigen
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Tri-Iodide Iodine Nitrogen Ammonia
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2NH NI ---> 3I + N + 2NH
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3 3 2 2 3
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Some Clever Uses For This Material
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1.) Contact Explosive Torpedos. Get some gelatin capsules, the kind pills are
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made of. Fill the small half with uncooked dry tapioca until it is half full.
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Then place a wet blob of contact explosive about 4 times the size of a straight
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pin head on top of it. Either the granular or paint type explosive will work.
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The capsule is then filled the rest of the way up with tapioca until, when the
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capsule is put together, the grains of tapioca are packed tightly, and none are
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loose. If this is not done properly, the torpedos could go off prematurely, and
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the joke would be on you. The torpedos are then moistened at the joints to seal
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them and stored until the next day. They are not sensitive enough until the
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next day and too sensitive the day after, so plan your activities accordingly.
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These torpedos are the most fiendish devices made. You can lay one on top of a
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door, where it will roll off when the door is opened, and it will explode on
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contact with the floor. If you toss one some distance away it will appear as if
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someone else was responsible for the explosion. These torpedos are ideal as
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booby traps or for pulling practical jokes with. They may be carried in a small
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box filled with cotton until needed. Just treat the box gently, and all will be
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well.
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2.Contact Explosive Booby Traps. Prepare a small amount of contact explosive.
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Cut strips of newspaper 1 1/2 inches wide and 1 foot long. Cut a piece of
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string 1 foot long. Put a small amount of wet contact explosive on the strip of
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paper 1 inch from the end. Double the string. Now pull one end of the string
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back until there is a double loop in the string about 1 inch long. Do not tie.
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Lay this double loop across the wet contact explosive and tightly roll the
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paper and glue the end. Put away for a few days until thoroughly dry. When dry,
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pull the ends of the string and the booby trap will explode. The strings, when
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pulled, rub against the dry contact explosive, and make it explode.
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Getting The Materials
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There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order the
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materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over 21 and
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won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here. Note that
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the people who run these supply houses know what Iodine Crystals and Ammonium
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Hydroxide can do when mixed together, and if you order both from the same
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place, or in the same order, it may arouse some suspicion.
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Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science for the
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current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not all sell
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every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can break the
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orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are used to selling
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to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce lots, while others
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prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their wares in 1 or 5 pound
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jugs. Split up your orders according to the quantities of each item you think
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you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine Crystals will cost three or four
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dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a
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long way. If you had to buy that by the pound, you might just want to forget
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the whole thing.
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---> PYRO2.TXT Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives <--
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We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite
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dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.
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Sodium Azide - NaN
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3
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This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
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gently.
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Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
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3 2
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This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
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absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
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and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
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your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
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with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
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afternoon.
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Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
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4 3
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Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
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quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
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material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
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decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
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it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
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with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
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Potassium Nitrate - KNO
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3
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Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
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It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
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when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
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burn.
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Potassium Potassium
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Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
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2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
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3 2 2
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Potassium Chlorate - KClO
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3
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A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
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yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
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mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
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more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
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useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
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Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
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Chlorate is also poisonous.
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Potassium Potassium
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Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
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2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
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3 2
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Aluminum Dust
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Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
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solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
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seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
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clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
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open flame.
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Zinc Dust
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Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
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worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
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Lampblack
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This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
|
||
manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
|
||
than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
|
||
stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
|
||
should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
|
||
this.
|
||
|
||
Sulfur
|
||
|
||
A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
|
||
this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
|
||
will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
|
||
|
||
Potassium Permanganate
|
||
|
||
An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
|
||
Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
|
||
effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
|
||
the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.
|
||
If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up
|
||
with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be
|
||
thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!
|
||
|
||
Gum Arabic
|
||
|
||
A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful
|
||
for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.
|
||
|
||
Sodium Peroxide
|
||
|
||
A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it
|
||
touch your skin.
|
||
|
||
Glycerine
|
||
|
||
A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get
|
||
burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
|
||
|
||
Iodine Crystals
|
||
|
||
Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses
|
||
poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches
|
||
and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and
|
||
notice the odor, you should leave the area.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
Touch Paper
|
||
|
||
This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is
|
||
ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by
|
||
soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated
|
||
solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have
|
||
dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up
|
||
to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a
|
||
small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary
|
||
paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite
|
||
gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.
|
||
|
||
Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to
|
||
make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the
|
||
fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained
|
||
from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Self Igniting Mixtures
|
||
|
||
Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an
|
||
asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall
|
||
onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then
|
||
flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is
|
||
oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated.
|
||
Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to
|
||
catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off
|
||
some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE
|
||
MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I
|
||
know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done.
|
||
Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.
|
||
|
||
This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of
|
||
poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine
|
||
crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound
|
||
and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into
|
||
flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is
|
||
very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off
|
||
by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately
|
||
before you plan to use it.
|
||
|
||
Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium
|
||
peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep
|
||
Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your
|
||
skin, for example.)
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these
|
||
SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of
|
||
water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the
|
||
quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.
|
||
Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this
|
||
mixture.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Percussion Explosives
|
||
|
||
This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting
|
||
possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing
|
||
Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT
|
||
more sensitive than the ones shown here.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be
|
||
ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any
|
||
pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one
|
||
gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a
|
||
loud report.
|
||
|
||
Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,
|
||
|
||
Potassium Chlorate 6
|
||
Lampblack 4
|
||
Sulfur 1
|
||
|
||
Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
Lead Azide Pb(N )
|
||
3 2
|
||
|
||
Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and
|
||
others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in
|
||
open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny
|
||
dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The
|
||
same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In
|
||
larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it
|
||
off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already
|
||
mentioned. It is very easy to make.
|
||
|
||
Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not
|
||
to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about
|
||
3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it
|
||
to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead
|
||
Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while
|
||
stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use
|
||
it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you
|
||
have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You
|
||
need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.
|
||
|
||
The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water.
|
||
It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this
|
||
way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it
|
||
in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of
|
||
an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the
|
||
mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the
|
||
shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged
|
||
between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed
|
||
the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make
|
||
the filter paper explosive.
|
||
|
||
Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a
|
||
couple of grams at one time.
|
||
|
||
Reaction Equations
|
||
|
||
Lead Sodium Lead Sodium
|
||
Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate
|
||
|
||
Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO
|
||
3 2 3 3 2 3
|
||
|
||
Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the
|
||
water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and
|
||
this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff.
|
||
Dump it out.
|
||
|
||
To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of
|
||
touch paper in the following shape
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
-----------------------------
|
||
! !
|
||
! !
|
||
! ---------------
|
||
! !
|
||
! ---------------
|
||
! !
|
||
! !
|
||
-----------------------------
|
||
|
||
Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and
|
||
the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet
|
||
Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry
|
||
thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the
|
||
very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will
|
||
produce a fairly loud explosion.
|
||
|
||
|
||
A Lead Azide Booby Trap
|
||
|
||
Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A
|
||
couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece
|
||
depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the
|
||
center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z"
|
||
should be about one inch long.
|
||
|
||
|
||
-------------------------------------.
|
||
.
|
||
.
|
||
.
|
||
--------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z
|
||
|
||
Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it
|
||
unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely
|
||
together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2
|
||
tries to show what this will look like.
|
||
|
||
|
||
-------------//////////////////-----------------
|
||
|
||
Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly
|
||
|
||
Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The
|
||
Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut
|
||
out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted
|
||
portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two
|
||
inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure
|
||
3.
|
||
|
||
-------------------------
|
||
! !
|
||
----------! !-------------------
|
||
! !
|
||
-------------------------
|
||
|
||
Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap
|
||
|
||
You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the
|
||
Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by
|
||
heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in
|
||
the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be
|
||
attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation
|
||
that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much
|
||
Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting
|
||
soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope,
|
||
and set it off from a distance.
|
||
|
||
The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead
|
||
Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get
|
||
set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so
|
||
store these separately and keep them padded well.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Getting The Chemicals
|
||
|
||
As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab
|
||
supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when
|
||
mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates,
|
||
nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind,
|
||
and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply
|
||
houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the
|
||
things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the
|
||
multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs
|
||
to cover your tracks. DO it!
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- HOW TO MAKE HOME EXPLOSIVES -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=- Complied by: The Outlaw =-=-=-= Received from: The Beta Pirate -=-=-
|
||
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
|
||
Files in this File
|
||
------------------------------
|
||
T 081 IMPROVISED MUNITIONS
|
||
T 021 PIPE BOMBS
|
||
T 008 SOFTDRINK BOMBS
|
||
T 012 HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB
|
||
T 014 HOW TO MAKE TNT
|
||
T 007 SPLATTER BOMB
|
||
T 008 PRYO FUN
|
||
T 016 CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: SPLATTER BOMB
|
||
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ \
|
||
WEEKLY EXPLOSIVE \ __ __ _ ____ __
|
||
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ \ /_ /\ /_//\///\ // /_ /\
|
||
HOW TO MAKE A MINE \ / \// \/ // /// /_ /_/
|
||
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ / ___ __ __ _ _ __
|
||
CREATED AND TYPED BY / //\ /_// / / / \\ <__
|
||
THE MAD BOMBER / / \/ /_//_/ \_ \_/ \_ __>
|
||
AND /
|
||
THE ARCHER / By WHITE CHINA
|
||
+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+
|
||
Ok, here is a simple, but effective mines to do on your enemy:
|
||
|
||
1. Get a pie tin.
|
||
2. Put some kind of explosive powder on the bottom of it.
|
||
3. Put a hole near the very bottom, and stick a model rocket igniter in it,
|
||
so it touches the powder.
|
||
4. Next, put a round piece of cardboard over the powder.
|
||
5. Put a layer of BB's or Buckshot on top of the cardboard.
|
||
6. Finally, cover the pie tin with a piece of aluminum foil.
|
||
|
||
HERE'S A DRAWING(KINDA):
|
||
|
||
\------------------------------/ <-FOIL
|
||
\oooooooooooooooooooooooooooo/ <-BB'S
|
||
\_________________________/<-CARDBOARD
|
||
\***********************/<-EXPLOSIVE
|
||
\_____________________== <-IGNITER
|
||
|
||
|
||
Hook two wires to the igniter and run the wire back to safety
|
||
When somebody get near to it, touch the two wires to a 9-volt
|
||
battery, and... BOOM... BB'S fly everywhere! Possibly (probably)
|
||
getting where it hurts the most.........
|
||
|
||
*Be sure you are a good distance away
|
||
|
||
THE PHREAK SHOW.....(303) 979-7992
|
||
|
||
==> UPLOADED BY THE RAT <==
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>READ: PRYO FUN
|
||
_________________________________
|
||
[ ]
|
||
[ HOME EXPLOSIVES ]
|
||
[ ]
|
||
[ FROM: INGY ]
|
||
[ <THE COMMANDERS> ]
|
||
[_________________________________]
|
||
|
||
|
||
P.S. DON'T KILL YOURSELF...
|
||
|
||
.......................................
|
||
|
||
->UNSTABLE EXPLOSIVE<-
|
||
^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
|
||
|
||
|
||
1) MIX SOLID NITRIC IODINE WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA
|
||
|
||
2) WAIT OVERNIGHT
|
||
|
||
3) POUR OFF THE LIQUID
|
||
|
||
4) DRY MUD ON BOTTOM TO HARD (LIKE CONCRETE)
|
||
|
||
5) THROW SOMETHING AT IT!
|
||
|
||
->SMOKE BOMBS<-
|
||
^^^^^ ^^^^^
|
||
|
||
|
||
1) MIX: 3 PARTS SUGAR
|
||
---------------------
|
||
6 PARTS SALTPETER
|
||
|
||
2) PUT IN TIN CAN, ONTO LOW FLAME (LIKE A LIGHTER)
|
||
|
||
3) LET GEL & HARDEN
|
||
|
||
4) PUT A MATCH IN AS A FUSE.
|
||
|
||
5) LIGHT IT & RUN LIKE HELL 'CAUSE 4 POUNDS WILL FILL A CITY BLOCK...
|
||
|
||
|
||
->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-
|
||
^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^
|
||
|
||
1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASIUM CHLORIDE
|
||
---------------------------
|
||
1 PART VASELINE
|
||
|
||
2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR A FUSE.
|
||
|
||
|
||
->CAR BOMB<-
|
||
^^^ ^^^^
|
||
|
||
1) PUT LIQUID DRAINO INTO A PILL BOX (THE KIND YOU GET WHEN YOU'RE ON
|
||
A PRESCRIPTION, NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK)
|
||
|
||
2) CLOSE THE LID & POP THE THING INTO THE GAS TANK.
|
||
|
||
3) WAIT 5 MIN.
|
||
|
||
4) RUN
|
||
|
||
|
||
->PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES<-
|
||
^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^
|
||
|
||
1) MIX: 2 PARTS VASELINE
|
||
------------------
|
||
1 PART GASOLINE
|
||
|
||
2) IGNITE WITH AN ELECTRIC CHARGE.
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: CHEM CLASS...HEH HEH
|
||
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> WELCOME TO THE DR. MAD <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> CHEMISTRY CLASS <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> EACH WEEK I WILL POST NEW <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> FORMULAS AND INSTRUCTIONS <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> ON TERRORIST DEVICES AND <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> EXPLOSIVES <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> FORMATTED FOR 80 COLUMNS <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> THE AUTHOR TAKES <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> ABSOLUTELY NO <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> USE OF THIS MATERIAL <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> IT IS ALL CONSIDERED <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> EXTREMELY DANGEROUS <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> READ ALL DIRECTIONS BEFORE<-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> STARTING <-=-=
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS: CALCIUM CARBIDE, A TIN COKE CAN, RUBBER CEMENT, WATER, MEDIUM
|
||
SIZED TEST TUBE THAT WILL FIT COMFORTABLY WITHIN THE TIN CAN, A
|
||
CORK WIDER THAN THE MOUTHPIECE OF THE TIN CAN AND A KNIFE
|
||
|
||
LOCATION OF CONSTRUCTION: OUTDOORS
|
||
|
||
SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS: DON'T LET ANY HUMIDITY OF WATER CONTACT THE CALCIUM
|
||
CARBIDE
|
||
|
||
|
||
THIS WEEK WE'LL START WITH AN UPGRADED VERSION OF THE CARBIDE BOMB
|
||
|
||
|
||
WELL A CARBIDE BOMB CONSISTS OF A BASIC CHEMICAL REACTION BETWEEN CALCIUM
|
||
CARBIDE AND H2O. WELL FIRST GO TO ANY HARDWARE STORE AND BUY CALCIUM CARBIDE.
|
||
THEY SHOULD HAVE IT BECAUSE CARBIDE CAMPING LAMPS USE THE STUFF. THE STUFF
|
||
SHOULD LOOK LIKE SMALL PIECE
|
||
BOOM!
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
FIG. 1
|
||
TOP VIEW OF THE CAN
|
||
|
||
---------------
|
||
- -
|
||
- !-----!------- PLACE CORK IN OPENING
|
||
- !-----! - PUT GLUE AROUND CRACKS
|
||
- -
|
||
---------------
|
||
|
||
FIG.2
|
||
CORK WEDGE
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------
|
||
\ ______ /
|
||
\ /------- WEDGE IT WITH A KNIFE RIGHT HERE
|
||
------
|
||
|
||
FIG. 3
|
||
|
||
COKE CAN GRENADE OVER VIEW
|
||
_
|
||
\ /---- CORK
|
||
-----------
|
||
! _ !
|
||
! ( ) !
|
||
! ( )------ TEST TUBE WITH WATER
|
||
! ( ) !
|
||
!****( )**------ CALCIUM CARBIDE
|
||
!*********!
|
||
-----------
|
||
|
||
|
||
THE PREVIOUS VERSION OF THIS SYSTEM DIDN'T WORK AS WELL AS THIS. IT'S UP TO YOU
|
||
TO JUDGE FOR YOURSELF.
|
||
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> WELL THAT'S THIS WEEKS <=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> CHEMISTRY CLASS <=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-> DO YOUR HOMEWORK <=-=-=
|
||
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
|
||
|
||
|
||
NOW WE'LL WARP YOU BACK TO THE MATERIALISTIC WORLD OF NIHILISTIC VALUES...
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: IMPROVISED MUNITIONS
|
||
|
||
_______________________________________
|
||
! !
|
||
! The Beta Pirate !
|
||
! Presents !
|
||
! !
|
||
! Improvised Munitions Handbook !
|
||
! --------------------------------- !
|
||
! (Army Technical Manual TM 31-210) !
|
||
!_____________________________________!
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
INTRODUCTION
|
||
------------
|
||
|
||
"In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible to use
|
||
conventional military munitions... It may be necessary instead to
|
||
fabricate the required munitions from locally available materials...
|
||
The purpose of this Manual is to increase the potential of Special
|
||
Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail the manufacture of
|
||
munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials."
|
||
|
||
"Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to
|
||
assure saftey and reliability... Saftey warnings are prominently
|
||
inserted in the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that
|
||
SAFETEY IS A MATTER OF ATTITUDE."
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
SECTION I: EXPLOSIVES
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FILLER -- This explosive can be detonated with
|
||
commercial #8 blasting cap.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Potassium Chloride
|
||
Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline)
|
||
Round stick or rolling pin
|
||
Container for mixing ingredients
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Spread Potassium Chloride crystals on a hard surface. Roll round
|
||
stick over crystals to crush into find powder until it looks
|
||
roughly like wheat flower.
|
||
|
||
2) Place 9 parts powdered potassium chloride and 1 part petroleum
|
||
jelly in mixing container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead)
|
||
until a uniform paste is obtained.
|
||
|
||
Note: Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM NITRATE -- Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many
|
||
natural sources and can be used to make nitric
|
||
acid, black powder, and other pyrotechnics.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Nitrate bearing earth ( fertile soil containing decayed matter, dirt
|
||
from burial grounds, etc..), about 3-1/2 gallons.
|
||
Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup
|
||
Bucket, 5 gallon or so
|
||
2 pieces cloth larger than bottom of bucket
|
||
Shallow pan at least as large as bottom of bucket
|
||
Shallow heat resistant container
|
||
Water, 1-3/4 gallons
|
||
Awl or screwdriver
|
||
1 gallon alcohol (rubbing alcohol is ok)
|
||
Heat source, Paper, Tape
|
||
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over
|
||
holes inside of bucket.
|
||
|
||
2) Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the
|
||
thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of the
|
||
ashes.
|
||
|
||
3) Place dirt in bucket.
|
||
|
||
4) Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be supported on
|
||
sticks.
|
||
|
||
5) Boil water and pour it over dirt in bucket a little at a time.
|
||
Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container.
|
||
Be sure water goes through ALL of the dirt. Allow drained liquid
|
||
to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours.
|
||
|
||
6) Drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge in
|
||
bottom of container.
|
||
|
||
7) Boil mixture over fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt
|
||
will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they
|
||
form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc.).
|
||
|
||
8) When liquid has boiled down to half its original volume, remove
|
||
from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of
|
||
alcohol. When mixture is poured through paper, small white
|
||
crystals (potassium nitrate) will collect on top of it.
|
||
|
||
9) To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in
|
||
the smallest possible amount of water. Remove any salt crystals
|
||
that appear (step 7); pour through filter and evaporate or gently
|
||
heat the concentrated solution to dryness.
|
||
|
||
10) Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The crystals
|
||
are now ready for use.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
IMPROVISED BLACK POWDER -- Black powder can be made in a simple, safe
|
||
manner. It can be used as blasting or gun
|
||
powder.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Potassium Nitrate, Granulated, 3 Cups (see above)
|
||
Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
|
||
Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
|
||
Alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc)
|
||
Water, 3 cups
|
||
Heat source
|
||
2 buckets, 2 gallons each, one of which is heat resistant
|
||
Flat window screening, 1 foot square
|
||
Large wooden stick
|
||
Cloth, 2 feet square
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Place alcohol in one of the buckets
|
||
|
||
2) Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat
|
||
resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water & mix thoroughly with stick
|
||
until all ingredients are dissolved.
|
||
|
||
3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat
|
||
source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Don't boil mixture. Be sure ALL mixture stays wet. If any is
|
||
dry it may ignite!!
|
||
|
||
4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while
|
||
stirring vigorously.
|
||
|
||
5) Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through
|
||
cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around
|
||
black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
|
||
|
||
6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp
|
||
powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together and change
|
||
shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 & 6.
|
||
|
||
7) Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer
|
||
about 1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator or direct
|
||
sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably
|
||
in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective
|
||
the black powder.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Remove from heat AS SOON AS granules are dry. Black powder
|
||
is now ready for use.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
NITRIC ACID -- Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives,
|
||
incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
2 parts Potassium Nitrate, see above for improvised P.N.
|
||
1 part CONCENTRATED sulfuric acid (from car battery)
|
||
2 bottles or ceramic jugs, narrow necks are preferable
|
||
Frying pan
|
||
Heat source
|
||
Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc..but not cellophane!)
|
||
Paper or rags
|
||
|
||
IMPORTANT: If sulfuric acid is obtained from car battery, concentrate
|
||
it by boiling until white fumes appear. Don't inhale
|
||
the fumes!!
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid.
|
||
Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste if formed.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. Fumes are
|
||
also dangerous and shouldn't be inhaled.
|
||
|
||
2) Wrap paper or rags around the necks of two bottles. Securely tape
|
||
necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against
|
||
each other and that there are no air spaces.
|
||
|
||
3) Support bottles on rocks or cans so that the empty bottle is
|
||
SLIGHTLY lower than the bottle containing plaster so that the
|
||
nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not flow into
|
||
other bottle.
|
||
|
||
4) Build fire in frying pan.
|
||
|
||
5) Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire back and
|
||
forth underneath the bottle. As red fumes appear periodically
|
||
pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will
|
||
begin to form in the receiving bottle.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Don't overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may
|
||
shatter. As an added precaution place the bottle to be
|
||
heated in a can filled with sand or gravel. Heat the outer
|
||
container to make nitric acid.
|
||
|
||
6) Continue above process until no more red fumes are formed. If
|
||
the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is cloudy pour
|
||
it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2-6.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and
|
||
should be kept in a sealed ceramic or glass container.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
FERTILIZER EXPLOSIVE -- An explosive can be made from fertilizer grade
|
||
ammonium nitrate and either fuel or motor oil
|
||
and gasoline.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)
|
||
Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil (1:1 ratio)
|
||
Two flat boards
|
||
Bucket
|
||
Iron or steel pipe
|
||
Blasting cap
|
||
Wooden rod, 1/4 inch diameter
|
||
Spoon
|
||
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board
|
||
and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles
|
||
are crushed into very fine powder that looks like flour (around
|
||
10 min.)
|
||
|
||
2) Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc..) of fuel oil with 16
|
||
measures of the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket
|
||
and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil isn't available, use
|
||
one half measure gasoline and one half measure motor oil. Store
|
||
in waterproof container until ready to use.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
CARBON TET EXPLOSIVE -- A moist explosive mixture cab be made from
|
||
fine aluminum powder and carbon tetrachloride.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Fine aluminum bronzing powder (from paint store)
|
||
Carbon Tetrachloride
|
||
Stirring rod, mixing container, measuring container (cup, tablespoon,
|
||
etc..), storage container
|
||
|
||
NOTE: If you can't find carbon tet, look in your schools chemistry or
|
||
biology rooms and "borrow" some.
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Measure two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tet liquid
|
||
into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring
|
||
with the wooden rod.
|
||
|
||
2) Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be
|
||
inhaled.
|
||
|
||
3) Store explosive in jar or other waterproof container until ready
|
||
to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not
|
||
confined.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
FERTILIZER AN-AL EXPLOSIVE -- A dry explosive mixture can be made from
|
||
ammonium nitrate fertilizer and fine
|
||
aluminum powder.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than 32% nitrogen)
|
||
Fine aluminum bronzing powder
|
||
Measuring container, mixing container, two flat boards, storage
|
||
container
|
||
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) METHOD 1 - To obtain a low velocity explosive
|
||
|
||
a. Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to
|
||
one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container.
|
||
(ie. 4 cups fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder)
|
||
|
||
b. Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.
|
||
|
||
2) METHOD 2 - To obtain much higher velocity explosive
|
||
|
||
a. Spread a handful at a time of fertilizer on the large flat
|
||
board and rub vigorously with the other board until the
|
||
large particles are crushed into very fine powder that looks
|
||
like flour (10 minutes per handful.)
|
||
|
||
NOTE: Proceed with step B below as soon as possible since the powder
|
||
may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.
|
||
|
||
b. Follow steps A and B of method one (above.)
|
||
|
||
3) Store the explosive in a waterproof container.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
NITRIC ACID / NITROBENZENE -- A simple explosive can be made from
|
||
mononitrobenezene and nitric acid.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Nitric acid
|
||
Mononitrobenzene (also known as nitrobenzene)
|
||
Acid resistant measuring container and mixing rod
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Add 1 volume (cup, quart, etc..) mononitrobenzene to 2 volumes
|
||
nitric acid in a bottle or jar.
|
||
|
||
2) Mix ingredients well by stirring with acid resistant rod.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Nitric acid will burn and destroy clothing; don't inhale
|
||
it's fumes.
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
CELLULOSE / ACID EXPLOSIVE -- An acid type explosive can be made from
|
||
nitric acid and white paper of cloth.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Nitric acid
|
||
White unprinted, unsized paper or clean white cotton cloth
|
||
Acid resistant container, aluminum foil, protective gloves
|
||
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Put on gloves.
|
||
|
||
2) Spread out a layer of paper or cloth on aluminum foil and
|
||
sprinkle with nitric acid until thoroughly soaked.
|
||
|
||
3) Place another layer of paper of cloth on top of the acid-soaked
|
||
sheet and repeat step 2 above. Repeat as often as necessary.
|
||
|
||
4) Roll up the aluminum foil containing the acid-soaked sheets and
|
||
insert the roll into acid resistant container.
|
||
|
||
5) Now use a blasting cap (put inside the can) to detonate the
|
||
sheets.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
SECTION II: INCENDIARY DEVICES
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE -- This incendiary bottle is self-igniting on
|
||
target impact.
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Sulfuric acid
|
||
Gasoline
|
||
Potassium chloride
|
||
Sugar
|
||
Glass bottle (1 quart), Rag or absorbent paper, string
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Sulfuric acid must be concentrated!!! If battery acid or other
|
||
dilute acid is used, concentrate it by boiling until den_<6E>H<EFBFBD>Z<EFBFBD>e
|
||
fumes are given off. Container used should be enamel-ware or
|
||
oven glass.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Sulfuric acid will burn! Be careful...
|
||
|
||
2) Remove acid from heat and allow to cool.
|
||
|
||
3) Pour gasoline into large bottle until it is approximately 2/3
|
||
full.
|
||
|
||
4) Add concentrated sulfuric acid to gasoline slowly until the
|
||
bottle is filled to within 1" to 2" from top. Place stopper on
|
||
the bottle.
|
||
|
||
5) Wash outside of bottle thoroughly.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: If this is not done the fire bottle may be dangerous to
|
||
handle during use.
|
||
|
||
6) Wrap clean cloth around outside of bottle. Tie with string.
|
||
|
||
7) Dissolve 1/2 cup of potassium chloride and 1/2 cup of sugar in
|
||
one cup of boiling water.
|
||
|
||
8) Allow solution to cool, pour into a small bottle and cap tightly.
|
||
The cooled solution should be approx. 2/3 crystals and 1/3 liquid.
|
||
If there is more liquid than this, pour off excess before using.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Store this bottle separately from the other bottle.
|
||
|
||
TO USE:
|
||
-------
|
||
|
||
1) Shake the small bottle to mix contents and pour onto the cloth
|
||
around the large bottle.
|
||
|
||
Bottle can be used wet of after solution has dried. However, when dry
|
||
the sugar - potassium chloride mixture is sensitive to spark or flame.
|
||
|
||
2) Throw or launch bottle. When bottle breaks against hard surface,
|
||
the fuel will ignite.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
GELLED FLAME FUELS -- The white of any egg can be used to gel gasoline
|
||
for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to
|
||
target surface.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
Parts by
|
||
volume Ingredient
|
||
-------- ----------
|
||
85 Gasoline
|
||
14 Egg white
|
||
|
||
Any one of the following:
|
||
|
||
1 Table salt
|
||
2 Sugar
|
||
1 Epson salt
|
||
1 1/2 Baking soda
|
||
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when
|
||
mixing flame fuels.
|
||
|
||
1) Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking
|
||
the egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: Do not get the yellow egg yolk mixed into the egg white.
|
||
|
||
2) Pour egg white into jar and add gasoline.
|
||
|
||
3) Add salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally
|
||
until gel forms (5-10 minutes).
|
||
|
||
Gasoline is now gelled and can be used in a fire bottle (above). It
|
||
will now adhere to the target.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
WHITE FLARE -- A white flare can be made from potassium nitrate,
|
||
aluminum powder and shellac. It has a duration of
|
||
approx. 2 minutes.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Potassium nitrate
|
||
Aluminum powder (bronzing)
|
||
Shellac
|
||
Quart jar w/lid, fuse, wooden rod, tin can, flat window screen,
|
||
wooden block
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Place potassium nitrate crystals on screen. Rub material back
|
||
and forth against screen mesh with wooden block until the nitrate
|
||
is granulated into a powder.
|
||
|
||
2) Measure 21 tablespoons of the powdered nitrate into quart jar.
|
||
Add 21 tablespoons of aluminum powder to the nitrate.
|
||
|
||
3) Place the lid on the jar and shake ingredients vigorously until
|
||
well mixed.
|
||
|
||
4) Add 12 tablespoons of shellac to the mixture and stir with the
|
||
wooden rod. Store mixture until ready for step 7.
|
||
|
||
5) Knot one end of the fuse.
|
||
|
||
6) Wrap the knotted end of the fuse once around the inside bottom
|
||
of the can with the knot at the center. Then run the rest of the
|
||
fuse out the center top of the can.
|
||
|
||
7) Pour the mixture into the can and around the fuse.
|
||
|
||
8) Store mixture away from heat and flame until ready for use, but
|
||
not longer than 3 weeks.
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
SECTION III: EXPLOSIVE CHARGES
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
COKE BOTTLE SHAPED CHARGE -- This shaped charge will penetrate 3 in.
|
||
of armor.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS:
|
||
----------
|
||
Glass Coke bottle, 6 1/2 ounce size
|
||
Plastic explosive
|
||
Blasting cap
|
||
Metal cylinder, open at both ends, 6 in. long & 2 in. inside
|
||
diameter. Cylinder should be heavy walled for best results.
|
||
Plug to fit mouth of Coke bottle
|
||
Non-metal rod, 1/4 inch diameter, 8 inches or more long
|
||
Tape or string
|
||
|
||
PROCEDURE:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Place plug in mouth of bottle.
|
||
|
||
2) Place cylinder over top of bottle until bottom of cylinder rests
|
||
on widest part of bottle (a little below the neck). Tape the
|
||
cylinder to bottle. Container should be straight on top of
|
||
bottle.
|
||
|
||
3) Place explosive in cylinder a little at a time tamping with
|
||
rod until cylinder is full.
|
||
|
||
4) Press the rod about 1/2 inch into the middle of the top of the
|
||
explosive charge to form a hole for the blasting cap.
|
||
|
||
HOW TO USE:
|
||
-----------
|
||
|
||
1) Place blasting cap in hole in top of the explosive.
|
||
|
||
2) Place bottom of Coke bottle flush against the target.
|
||
|
||
3) Light fuse or use an electrical igniter when ready to fire.
|
||
|
||
|
||
_______________________________________
|
||
! This article presented by: !
|
||
! The Beta Pirate !
|
||
---------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
Formatted to 80 Cols by WHITE CHINA
|
||
|
||
(>View: PIPE BOMBS
|
||
|
||
The following file is for all you pyromaniacs.
|
||
|
||
PIPE BOMBS
|
||
|
||
There are many forms of pipe bombs used today. This file will cover
|
||
these types:
|
||
|
||
CO2 canisters
|
||
"Pipe" bombs
|
||
PVC pipe bombs
|
||
Steel cased pipe bombs
|
||
|
||
in addition to: timers, various igniting techniques, launching
|
||
|
||
CO2 canisters:
|
||
|
||
CO2 canisters are among the simplest and safest forms of pipe bombs. They
|
||
can be purchased in any Sporting Goods store for about $2 for 5. Simply let
|
||
out the CO2 inside, and fill with gunpowder. If you are not yet old enough
|
||
to buy gunpowder, then you can use powdered sulfur and zinc (60% zinc, 40%
|
||
sulfur--> by volume-not weight). If you really want to use gunpowder, then
|
||
try this:
|
||
|
||
1) obtain a letter
|
||
1) obtain a letterhead from any official sounding organization (or make
|
||
your own).
|
||
2) Use it to mail a letter to some large chemical company saying you are
|
||
a researcher or teacher for some school or business and you need so
|
||
many parts of this and that.
|
||
|
||
This usually works. If you are really desperate, you can scrape the fuel out
|
||
of rocket engines (Estes) and use that. It usually takes about 2 C engines to
|
||
do that.
|
||
Anyway, fill your CO2 with whatever materials you are using. Then plug the
|
||
end with a piece of fuse (1/16" of an inch I think). Then put your bomb in a
|
||
hole or something, light it and run.
|
||
There's usually only one piece of shrapnel about the size of your fist.
|
||
CAUTION: Make sure the outside of your "bomb" is very clean and has no
|
||
gunpowder on it. Otherwise you may have only 2 sec. to run instead
|
||
of 10.
|
||
|
||
"Pipe" bombs:
|
||
|
||
OK, heres how to make your standard pipe bomb. Go to your local junk yard or
|
||
any where for that matter and get a piece of pipe (any size). Thread each
|
||
end. (on the outside). Cap one end. Drill a hole in the middle of the pipe
|
||
the size of your fuse. fill with one of the ingredients listed earlier. OIL
|
||
the open end of the pipe and cap it VERY CAREFULLY. If you don't oil the
|
||
ends it could spark... Just last week some guy was making one in a garage and
|
||
it sparked. There was only one thing to be heard afterwards: drip, drip, drip
|
||
... so OIL it before you cap this end. Then put it in a hole with a LONG fuse,
|
||
light it and run like hell! I'm not sure how this compares to dynamite, but
|
||
I'll post what happens when I light off a 3" dia. by 12" long pipe bomb I just
|
||
recently made....
|
||
|
||
PVC pipe bombs:
|
||
|
||
PVC pipes are those one made of plastic that are glued together. For
|
||
these you should follow the same procedure as for pipe bombs, but instead
|
||
of screwing on caps, you glue them on with the glue used with PVC pipes. This
|
||
is much safer then using metal cause it doesn't spark. Plus, the glue is so
|
||
strong that it the ends wont blow off (which sometimes happens).
|
||
|
||
***IF YOU ARE TRYING TO BE ESPECIALLY DESTRUCTIVE, PUT SMALL PIECES OF METAL
|
||
IN WITH THE GUN POWDER...
|
||
|
||
Steel Casings:
|
||
|
||
Ok, this is by far the most deadly of the pipe bombs. Take a steel rod of
|
||
any thickness (probably at least 1/2") and bore out the center by drilling in
|
||
from one end. Don't drill all the way through though. Then drill a hole in
|
||
the side for the fuse. Follow the same method for capping the open end as is
|
||
done with regular pipe bombs. The nice thing about steel is its strength.
|
||
The thicker you make the walls of the bomb, the bigger the bang. Size helps
|
||
also. There's only one problem with it though- The cap at one end tends to
|
||
blow off if its too powerful, or if the cap holds, then all the fuel shoots
|
||
out through th fuse hole. There is a solution for each.
|
||
To keep the cap on, make a clamp out of steel that wraps around the bomb
|
||
from end to end. This should hold it in place.
|
||
For the fuse hole: Drill a very tiny hole. Then use an ignitor (prefer-
|
||
ably home made) with insulated wires. Then take another thin steel casing and
|
||
fit the bomb inside it- only this steel casing doesn't have a fuse hole- just
|
||
run the leads out one end. Use your standard ignition switch for any
|
||
ignitor and set it off. It would probably be safer to use a timer. (see
|
||
below).
|
||
|
||
Timers:
|
||
|
||
The best form of timer that I have found so far is the simple egg timer.
|
||
All you have to do is wire a connection around the egg time so that when
|
||
the timer reaches 0 the two wire leads are touching. Fairly simple.
|
||
|
||
Igniting:
|
||
|
||
Basically there are two ways to ignite your bomb. The first is by fuse. The
|
||
second is by electricity. The best way to ignite a bomb by electricity is to
|
||
use the Estes ignitors used commonly for model rockets. These work quite well.
|
||
Of course, for the method I outlined for the steel bomb, you would have to use
|
||
insulated wires because they would be touching in such a small hole.
|
||
|
||
Launching:
|
||
|
||
Well, its always fun to be able to watch your bomb blow up without risking
|
||
shrapnel, and especially at night. So, assuming your bomb isn't to heavy,
|
||
you can launch it in an Estes rocket.
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: SOFTDRINK BOMBS
|
||
|
||
SOFT DRINK CAN BOMB FROM THE
|
||
BOOK THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND
|
||
BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN
|
||
|
||
THIS IS AN ANTI-PERSONNEL BOMB MEANT FOR MILLING CROWDS. THE BOTTOM OF A SOFT
|
||
DRINK CAN IS HALF CUT OUT AND BENT BACK. A GIANT FIRECRACKER OR OTHER
|
||
EXPLOSIVE IS PUT IN AND SURROUNDED WITH NUTS AND BOLTS OR ROCKS. THE FUSE IS
|
||
THEN ARMED WITH A CHEMICAL DELAY IN A PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW.
|
||
|
||
AFTER FIRST MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO CHILDREN NEARBY, THE ACID OR GLYCERINE IS
|
||
PUT INTO THE STRAW AND THE CAN IS SET DOWN BY A TREE OR WALL WHERE IT WILL NOT
|
||
BE KNOCKED OVER. THE DELAY SHOULD GIVE YOU THREE TO FIVE MINUTES. IT WILL THEN
|
||
HAVE A SHATTERING EFFECT ON PASSERSBY.
|
||
|
||
IT IS HARDLY LIKELY THAT ANYONE WOULD PICK UP AND DRINK FROM SOMEONE ELSE'S
|
||
SOFT DRINK CAN. BUT IF SUCH A CRUDE PERSON SHOULD TRY TO DRINK FROM YOUR BOMB
|
||
HE WOULD BREAK A NASTY HABIT FAST!
|
||
|
||
!!
|
||
!!
|
||
!! <- CHEMICAL IGNITER
|
||
---------
|
||
! !1! !
|
||
! ===== !
|
||
!*! !"!
|
||
! ! ! !
|
||
! ! ! ! <- BIG FIRECRACKER
|
||
! ! !%!
|
||
! ==== !
|
||
! !
|
||
! # !
|
||
! --- !
|
||
! ! ! <- NUTS & BOLTS
|
||
! / !
|
||
! !
|
||
---------
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: HOW TO MAKE A STINK BOMB
|
||
|
||
STINKUM: FROM THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND BY KURT SAXON TYPED BY THE PENGUIN
|
||
|
||
IRON SULFIDE IS SOLD FOR $.35 FOR ONLY 1/8TH OF AN OUNCE. EASIER TO MAKE AND
|
||
JUST AS POTENT AND COSTING ABOUT $.50 A QUART IS AMMONIUM SULFIDE. IT STINKS
|
||
TO HIGH HEAVEN LIKE ROTTEN EGGS AND NO ONE CAN STAND TO STAY AROUND IT ONCE IT
|
||
HAS BEEN SPILLED ON THE FLOOR OR VAPORIZED BY AN EXPLOSION.
|
||
|
||
TO MAKE SOME, YOU MIX 4 OUNCES OF SULFUR WITH 8 OUNCES OF HYDRATED LIME
|
||
IN A STEW POT. A QUART OF WATER IS ADDED AND THE MESS IS HEATED AND
|
||
STIRRED UNTIL THE SULFUR HAS COMPLETELY BLENDED. THE HYDRATED LIME WILL SINK
|
||
TO THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN AND THE YELLOW LIQUID IS THEN POURED OFF INTO A
|
||
BUCKET.
|
||
|
||
TAKE THE BUCKET OUTSIDE, IF YOU HAVE ANY SENSE, AND ADD 1 POUND OF SULFIDE
|
||
OF AMMONIA. STIR IT A MINUTE AND HOLD YOUR NOSE. THEN COVER THE BUCKET WITH
|
||
PLASTIC WRAP AND LET IT SET FOR ABOUT A HALF HOUR. THEN POUR OFF THE LIQUID
|
||
SLOWLY THROUGH A CLOTH FILTER INTO A BOTTLE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN OUTSIDE
|
||
YOU CAN USE YOUR BATHROOM, JUST HOPE NO ONE HAS TO GO FOR AN HOUR OR SO. THE
|
||
LIQUID IS VILE BUT NOT POISON.
|
||
|
||
A 5 POUND BAG OF SULFIDE OF AMMONIA FOR $1.65 CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY GARDEN
|
||
STORE AND GARDEN SULFUR IS VERY HIGH GRADE AND MAKES EXCELLENT GUN POWDER. IT
|
||
HAS 10% INERT INGREDIENTS SO 10% MORE SHOULD BE ADDED TO ANY FORMULA REQUIR-
|
||
ING SULFUR. I BOUGHT THE HYDRATED LIME FROM A BUILDING SUPPLY STORE FOR $.10
|
||
A POUND.
|
||
|
||
STINKUM IS EITHER POURED ON THE FLOOR, SHOT FROM A WATER PISTOL, THROWN IN A
|
||
BOTTLE OR LIGHT BULB OR VAPORIZED BY A FIRECRACKER. THE SAME GOES FOR THE
|
||
FORMALDEHYDE OR ACROLEIN. TO VAPORIZE THE ABOVE NASTIES, A LITTLE BOMB IS
|
||
USED. THE BEST BOMB CASING IS A PLASTIC COIN HOLDER WITH A SCREW CAP. THESE
|
||
CAN BE BOUGHT FROM ANY COIN SHOP FOR $.10 EACH. THE THIN BRASS TUBING IS
|
||
BOUGHT AT A HOBBY SHOP. THE WAX IS BOUGHT AT A GROCERY IN THE CANNING SECTION.
|
||
TO KEEP THE FIRECRACKER FROM GETTING WET, DIP IT AND PART OF THE TUBING INTO
|
||
MELTED WAX. ENOUGH GOODY IS POURED INTO THE COIN HOLDER TO MAKE IT FULL WHEN
|
||
THE FIRECRACKER IS PUT IN AND THE LID IS SCREWED ON. IT IS FILLED AS SOON AS
|
||
POSSIBLE BEFORE USING.
|
||
|
||
IT IS IGNITED WITH A CHEMICAL IGNITER, SHOWN FURTHER ON, OR WITH A MATCH OR
|
||
CIGARETTE. THE SAME SYSTEM CAN BE USED IN A GLASS BOTTLE BUT THAT MIGHT INJURE
|
||
SOMEONE.
|
||
|
||
! <- FUSE
|
||
---
|
||
! ! <- BRASS TUBE
|
||
! !
|
||
! !
|
||
(^) <- AIRPLANE GLUE
|
||
-------
|
||
! !1! !
|
||
! / !
|
||
! / !
|
||
!-----! <- WAX
|
||
! 1 !
|
||
! 1 !
|
||
! === !
|
||
! ! ! !
|
||
! ! ! ! <- FIRECRACKER
|
||
! ! ! !
|
||
! ! ! !
|
||
! === !
|
||
!-----!
|
||
|
||
|
||
(>View: HOW TO MAKE TNT
|
||
|
||
HOW TO MAKE TNT
|
||
THE ANARCHIST COOKBOOK
|
||
|
||
PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT EXPLOSIVE COMPOUND IN USE TODAY IS TNT (TRINITRO-
|
||
TOLENE). THIS AND OTHER VERY SIMILAR TYPES OF HIGH EXPLOSIVES ARE ALL USED BY
|
||
THE MILITARY, BECAUSE OF THEIR FANTASTIC POWER - ABOUT 2.25 MILLION POUNDS PER
|
||
SQUARE INCH, AND THEIR GREAT STABILITY. TNT ALSO HAS THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF
|
||
BEING ABLE TO BE MELTED AT 82 DEGREES F.,SO THAT IT CAN BE POURED INTO SHELLS,
|
||
MORTARS, OR ANY OTHER PROJECTILES. MILITARY TNT COMES IN CONTAINERS WHICH
|
||
RESEMBLE DRY CELL BATTERIES, AND ARE USUALLY IGNITED BY AN ELECTRICAL CHARGE,
|
||
COUPLED WITH AN ELECTRICAL BLASTING CAP, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE OTHER METHODS.
|
||
|
||
PREPARATION OF TNT-
|
||
|
||
1 TAKE TWO BEAKERS. IN THE FIRST, PREP ARE A SOLUTION OF 76% SULFURIC ACID,
|
||
23% NITRIC ACID, AND 1% WATER.IN THE OTHER BEAKER, PREPARE ANOTHER SOLUTION
|
||
OF 57% NITRIC ACID AND 43% SULFURIC ACID (%'S ARE ON A WEIGHT RATIO RATHER
|
||
THAN VOLUME ).
|
||
|
||
2 TEN GRAMS OF THE FIRST SOLUTION ARE POURED INTO AN EMPTY BEAKER AND PLACED
|
||
IN AN ICE BATH.
|
||
|
||
3 ADD TEN GRAMS OF TOLUENE, AND STIR FOR SEVERAL MINUTES.
|
||
|
||
4 REMOVE THIS BEAKER FROM THE ICE BATH AND GENTLY HEAT UNTIL IT REACHES
|
||
50 DEGREES C. THE SOLUTION IS STIRRED CONSTANTLY WHILE BEING HEATED.
|
||
|
||
5 FIFTY ADDITIONAL GRAMS OF THE ACID, FROM THE FIRST BEAKER, ARE ADDED AND THE
|
||
TEMPERATURE IS ALLOWED TO RISE TO 55 DEGREES C. THIS TEMPERATURE IS HELD FOR
|
||
THE NEXT TEN MINUTES, AND AN OILY LIQUID WILL BEGIN TO FORM ON THE TOP OF
|
||
THE ACID.
|
||
|
||
6 ABOUT 10 OR 12 MINUTES, THE ACID SOLUTION IS RETURNED TO THE ICE BATH, AND
|
||
COOLED TO 45 DEGREES C. WHEN REACHING THIS TEMPERATURE, THE OILY LIQUID
|
||
WILL SINK AND COLLECT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BEAKER. AT THIS POINT, THE
|
||
REMAINING ACID SOLUTION SHOULD BE DRAWN OFF, BY USING A SYRINGE.
|
||
|
||
7 FIFTY MORE GRAMS OF THE FIRST ACID SOLUTION ARE ADDED TO THE OILY LIQUID
|
||
WHILE THE TEMPERATURE IS SLOWLY BEING RAISED TO 83 DEGREES C. AFTER THIS
|
||
TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, IT IS MAINTAINED FOR A FULL HALF HOUR.
|
||
|
||
8 AT THE END OF THIS PERIOD, THE SOLUTION IS ALLOWED TO COOL TO 60 DEGREES C.,
|
||
AND IS HELD AT THIS TEMPERATURE FOR ANOTHER FULL HALF HOUR. AFTER THIS, THE
|
||
ACID IS AGAIN DRAWN OFF, LEAVING ONCE MORE ONLY THE OILY LIQUID AT THE
|
||
BOTTOM.
|
||
|
||
9 THIRTY GRAMS OF SULFURIC ACID ARE ADDED, WHILE THE OILY LIQUID IS GENTLY
|
||
HEATED TO 80 DEGREES C. ALL TEMPERATURE INCREASES MUST BE ACCOMPLISHED
|
||
SLOWLY AND GENTLY.
|
||
|
||
10 ONCE THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED, 30 GRAMS OF THE SECOND ACID
|
||
SOLUTION ARE ADDED, AND THE TEMPERATURE IS RAISED FROM 80 DEGREES C. TO
|
||
104 DEGREES C., AND IS HELD FOR THREE HOURS.
|
||
|
||
11 AFTER THIS THREE-HOUR PERIOD, THE MIXTURE IS LOWERED TO 100 DEGREES C. AND
|
||
IS HELD THERE FOR A HALF HOUR. 12. AFTER THIS HALF HOUR, THE OIL IS REMOVED
|
||
FROM THE ACID AND WASHED WITH BOILING WATER.
|
||
|
||
13 AFTER THE WASHING WITH BOILING WATER, WHILE BEING STIRRED CONSTANTLY, THE
|
||
TNT WILL BEGIN TO SOLIDIFY.
|
||
|
||
14 WHEN THE SOLIDIFICATION HAS STARTED, COLD WATER IS ADDED TO THE BEAKER, SO
|
||
THAT THE TNT WILL FORM INTO PELLETS. ONCE THIS IS DONE, YOU HAVE A GOOD
|
||
QUALITY TNT.
|
||
|
||
|
||
This collection brought to you by:
|
||
_______
|
||
/ / / \
|
||
/ / \ / ___ \ /
|
||
/______/ /\ \ / / \ \/ at (215) 576-7673
|
||
/ \ /__\ \ / / \ /\
|
||
/ \ / \ \/ \ / / \ 12oo/24oo baud
|
||
\___/ \
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
FLASH POWDER
|
||
------------
|
||
|
||
FLASH POWDER IS A CHEMICAL MIXTURE THAT BURNS SO FAST THAT IT APPEARS TO BURN
|
||
INSTANTLY, PRODUCING A BRIGHT FLASH OF LIGHT.
|
||
|
||
FLASH POWDER WILL PRODUCE AN EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION IN AMOUNTS LARGER THAN 4
|
||
OUNCES EVEN WHEN IT IS NOT CONTAINED VERY SMALL AMOUNTS OF FLASH POWDER WILL
|
||
PRODUCE A VERY LOUD EXPLOSION WHEN CONTAINED, EVEN IN A CONTAINER MADE OF A FEW
|
||
LAYERS OF PAPER.
|
||
|
||
FLASH POWDER IS USUALLY MADE FROM A VERY FINE POWDERED METAL THAT WILL BURN AND
|
||
AN OXIDIZER. POWDERED ALUMINUM IS USED THE MOST BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER.
|
||
POWDERED MAGNESIUM AND ZINC WILL ALSO WORK. THE OXIDIZER CAN BE BARIUM
|
||
NITRATE, AMMONIUM PERCHLORATE, BARIUM PEROXIDE, STRONTIUM NITRATE, POTASSIUM
|
||
CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE, SODIUM CHLORATE, POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE,
|
||
OTHERS, AND ANY COMBINATION OF THESE. ALL THE CHLORATE ARE FRICTION AND IMPACT
|
||
SENSITIVE, AND ALSO THE PERMAN GANATE. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE IS THE LEAST
|
||
SENSITIVE OF THE CHLORATES.
|
||
|
||
ALL THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE CRUSHED INTO A VERY FINE POWDER, ABOUT 400 MESH
|
||
OR SMALLER. 400 MESH IS ABOUT LIKE KITCHEN TYPE FLOUR.
|
||
|
||
BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM IS A BRAND NAME FOR ALUMINUM POWDER. IT HAS A PARTICAL
|
||
SIZE OF 600 MESH FOR 98% OF THE ALUMINUM MATERIAL. THE OTHER 2% OF THE MATERIAL
|
||
IS LARGER THAN 600 MESH. THERE ARE OTHER ALUMINUM POWDERS MADE BY OTHER
|
||
COMPANIES THAT ARE EQUAL TO OR BETTER THAN BLACK GERMAN ALUMINUM.
|
||
|
||
ALUMINUM PYRO POWDER IS ALSO A BRAND NAME. THE PARTICAL SIZE IS (98%-400) OR
|
||
98% OF THE MATERIAL IS SMALLER THAN 400 MESH. THE OTHER 2% IS LARGER THAN 400
|
||
MESH.
|
||
|
||
|
||
FLASH POWDER FORMULAS
|
||
1. IT IS NOT MOISTURE ABSORBENT. NOT VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT OR FRICTION.
|
||
SODIUM CHLORATE OR POTASSIUM CHLORATE CAN BE USED INSTEAD OF POTASSIUM
|
||
PERCHLORATE BUT IT THEN BECOMES VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND IMPACT. 4
|
||
OUNCES OF THIS MIXTURE WILL PRODUCE AN EXPLOSION EQUAL TO ONE STICK OF
|
||
DYNAMITE!
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 600 MESH 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
2. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AND EXTREMELY LOUD EXPLOSION, ALMOST AS GOOD AS
|
||
FORMULA #1. THIS IS WHAT MOST FIRECRACKERS, M-80'S AND OTHER FIREWORKS ARE
|
||
MADE WITH.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
3. THIS FORMULA IS EQUAL TO FORMULA #2 IT IS NOT SENSITIVE TO FRICTION OR
|
||
IMPACT.
|
||
|
||
BARIUM PEROXIDE 9 OZ.
|
||
50%/50% MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM
|
||
POWDER 200 MESH 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
4. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS FORMULA #2 BUT IT PRODUCES A VERY BRIGHT
|
||
FLASH. THIS FORMULA IS WHAT USE TO BE USED FOR THE PHOTO FLASH FOR THE OLD
|
||
BOX TYPE CAMERAS ABOUT 100 YEARS AGO
|
||
|
||
BARIUM NITRATE 3 OZ.
|
||
POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 3 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 4 OZ.
|
||
|
||
5. THIS FORMULA WORKS VERY GOOD. IT IS NOT VERY IMPACT OR FRICTION SENSITIVE.
|
||
IT PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION. POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE CONTAINS
|
||
46.1914% OXYGEN. HALF AS POWERFUL AS #2.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE 2 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
6. THIS FORMULA WORKS AS GOOD AS #5 BUT IT HAS A DISADVANTAGE OF BEING MOISTURE
|
||
ABSORBENT AND IT IS VERY IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE. SODIUM CHLORATE
|
||
CONTAINS 45.0937% OXYGEN. PRODUCES A VERY, VERY LOUD EXPLOSION, EQUAL TO #5.
|
||
|
||
SODIUM CHLORATE 2 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 400 MESH 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
7. THIS FORMULA IS VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE IT IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND
|
||
IMPACT AND COULD EXPLODE DURING THE CONSTRUCTION OF ANY EXPLOSIVE DEVICE.
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE CONTAINS 39.1664% OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES AN
|
||
EXPLOSION ALMOST EQUAL TO #5 OR #6. USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TOY CAP
|
||
PISTOL CAPS.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE 2 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
8. THIS FORMULA IS VERY, VERY VERY SENSITIVE TO IMPACT, FRICTION AND STATIC
|
||
ELECTRICITY, EVEN MORE SENSITIVE THAN #7. EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! WILL IGNITE
|
||
EVEN WHEN WET.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE 6.7 OZ.
|
||
RED PHOSPHORUS 2.7 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 0.3 OZ.
|
||
CALCIUM CARBONATE 0.3 OZ.
|
||
|
||
9. THIS FORMULA HAS SLIGHTLY LESS EXPLOSIVE POWER THAN #7. IT IS SLIGHTLY
|
||
FRICTION AND IMPACT SENSITIVE. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE CONTAINS 40.4961%
|
||
OXYGEN. THIS FORMULA WILL IGNITE ITSELF IF IT GETS WET. VERY LOUD EXPLOSION.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE 2 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1 OZ.
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
10. THIS FORMULA PRODUCES A VERY SMALL EXPLOSION WHEN IGNITED IN A PAPER TUBE.
|
||
A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION IS PRODUCED WHEN IT IS IGNITED IN A VERY STRONG
|
||
CONTAINER. IT IS IMPACT AND FRICTION SENSITIVE.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ.
|
||
CHARCOAL DUST 1.5 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1.0 OZ.
|
||
|
||
11. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT
|
||
THIS FORMULA.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE 6 OZ.
|
||
ANTIMONY SULFIDE 3 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1 OZ.
|
||
|
||
12. THIS FORMULA IS A LITTLE LOUDER THAN FORMULA #10. IMPACT AND FRICTION
|
||
SENSITIVE. PRODUCES A SMALL EXPLOSION IN A PAPER CONTAINER.
|
||
|
||
SODIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ.
|
||
CHARCOAL DUST 1.5 OZ.
|
||
SULFUR 1.0 OZ.
|
||
|
||
13. NO INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ABOUT
|
||
THIS FORMULA.
|
||
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE 7.5 OZ.
|
||
GALLIC ACID 2.2 OZ.
|
||
RED GUM 0.3 OZ.
|
||
|
||
|
||
!CAUTION!
|
||
---------
|
||
|
||
THE MIXTURE OF ANY CHLORATE WITH PHOSPHORUS OR SULFUR IS EXTREMEY SENSITIVE TO
|
||
FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE.
|
||
|
||
CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES MUST NOT BE STORED TOGETHER WITH AMMONIUM NITRATE
|
||
EXPLOSIVES, SINCE AMMONIUM CHLORATE WHICH IS FORMED WHEN THESE TWO SUBSTANCES
|
||
ARE BROUGHT IN CONTACT, EXPLODES.
|
||
|
||
WHEN MIXING CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES, CRUSH ALL OF THE CHEMICALS SEPARATELY. SIFT
|
||
THE OXIDIZER THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE TO BREAK UP THE MATERIAL INTO SMALL
|
||
PIECES. THEN SIFT THE OTHER CHEMICALS ALSO IF THEY NEED IT.
|
||
|
||
MIX ALL OF THE FLASH POWDER CHEMICALS TOGETHER AND MIX WELL BY SIFTING THEM
|
||
THROUGH A PIECE OF SCREEN WIRE OR BY SHAKING THEM IN A ZIP LOCK BAG. THIS
|
||
MIXTURE IS VERY SENSITIVE TO FRICTION, IMPACT, HEAT, SPARK, STATIC ELECTRICITY.
|
||
|
||
4 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER HS THE SAME EXPLOSIVE POWER AS ONE STICK OF DYNAMITE.
|
||
ONE GROSS OF M-80 FIRE- CRACKERS IS EQUAL TO 3 STICKS OF DYNAMITE.
|
||
|
||
8 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-80 TYPE FIRECRACKERS IF EACH M-80
|
||
CONTAINS 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER.
|
||
|
||
M-80'S WITH 1/4 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER PRODUCES AN EXPLOSION THAT SOUND
|
||
ALMOST EXACTLY THE SAME AS M-80'S WITH 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER, BUT IT
|
||
HAS LESS DESTRUCTIVE POWER.
|
||
|
||
24 OUNCES OF FLASH POWDER WILL MAKE 100 M-100 TYPE FIRECRACKERS. (AND THESE ARE
|
||
AWSOME!)
|
||
|
||
QUICK CONVERSIONS:
|
||
|
||
3 TEASPONS = 1 TABLESPOON
|
||
4 TABLESPOONS = 1/4 CUP
|
||
1/4 CUP = 2 OZ.
|
||
|
||
|
||
M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION
|
||
-------------------------
|
||
|
||
1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE. RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND
|
||
THE SIDE OF AN END PLUG OR THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE. INSERT THE END
|
||
PLUG, CONVEX SIDE FIRST, INTO THE PAPER TUBE. PUSH IT IN UNTIL THE BACK EDGE
|
||
OF THE PLUG IS FLUSH WITH THE EDGE OF THE PAPER TUBE.
|
||
|
||
2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE. USING A 1/8 INCH DRILL BIT, AN ICE PICK OR A SHARP NAIL,
|
||
PUNCH A HOLE THROUGH ONE SIDE OF THE PAPER TUBE IN THE MIDDLE. NEVER PUNCTURE A
|
||
CASE THAT CONTAINS FLASH POWDER. THE PAPER TUBE SHOULD ALWAYS BE FUSED BEFORE
|
||
THE FLASH POWDER IS ADDED. CUT THE FUSE TO 1 1/2 INCHES IN LENGTH AND INSERT IT
|
||
INTO THE HOLE AT LEAST HALFWAY ACROSS THE INSIDE DIAMETER OF THE PAPER TUBE.
|
||
RUN A SMALL AMOUNT OF ELMER'S GLUE AROUND THE FUSE AND LET IT DRY.
|
||
|
||
3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER EXTREME CAUTION SHOULD BE USED WHEN MIXING FLASH
|
||
POWDER. FLASH POWDER IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT FORCE.
|
||
AVOID ALL SOURCES OF FRICTION, IMPACT, FLAME, SPARKS AND STATIC ELECTRICITY.
|
||
|
||
4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES STAND THE PAPER TUBES ON END, OPEN END UP. USING A SMALL
|
||
FUNNEL AND A MEASURING SPOON 1/2 TEASPOON, FILL THE PAPER TUBES 1/2 TO 2/3 FULL.
|
||
DO NOT FILL THE TUBES COMPLETELY FULL OR PACK IN THE FLASH POWDER. BY LEAVING AN
|
||
AIR SPACE THERE IS ROOM FOR THE FLASH POWDER TO EXPAND WHEN IGNITED WHICH WILL
|
||
PRODUCE A MUCH LOUDER EXPLOSION.
|
||
|
||
5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG PLUG THE OPEN END IN THE SAME WAY THAT YOU PLUGGED
|
||
THE FIRST END.
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80
|
||
-----------------------------
|
||
|
||
1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 1/2 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH WALL THICKNESS, 1 1/2
|
||
INCHES LONG.
|
||
|
||
2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 1/2 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER, 1/16 INCH PAPER THICKNESS.
|
||
|
||
3. ONE 3/32 DIAMETER WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG.
|
||
|
||
4. 1/2 TEASPOON OF FLASH POWDER.
|
||
|
||
5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE.
|
||
|
||
TUBE
|
||
-- =========== --
|
||
END !! ) O ( !! END
|
||
PLUG -- =========== -- PLUG
|
||
|
||
FUSE ^ HOLE
|
||
|
||
|
||
-----------
|
||
M80 OR M100
|
||
-----------
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100
|
||
----------------------------
|
||
|
||
1. ONE PAPER TUBE, 5/8 INCH INSIDE DIAMETER, 1 3/4 INCH LONG
|
||
|
||
2. TWO PAPER END PLUGS 5/8 INCH OUTSIDE DIAMETER.
|
||
|
||
3. ONE WATER PROOF FUSE ABOUT 1 1/2 INCHES LONG.
|
||
|
||
4. 1 1/2 TEASPOONS OF FLASH POWDER.
|
||
|
||
5. 10 DROPS OF ELMER'S GLUE
|
||
|
||
|
||
CHEMICALS
|
||
---------
|
||
|
||
MOST OF THE CHEMICALS YOU NEED ARE SOLD AT K-MART, HARDWARE STORES, DRUG
|
||
STORES, LUMBER YARDS, PLUMBING SUPPLY, WAL-MART, CEMENT COMPANY AND MANY OTHER
|
||
STORES.
|
||
|
||
SODIUM CHLORATE. O2 SOLID OXYGEN PELLETS ARE USED IN SMALL WORK SHOP TORCHES.
|
||
|
||
O-OP, DRUG STORES AND LAWN AND GARDEN CENTERS.
|
||
|
||
ALUMINUM POWDER. SOLD BY PAINT STORES AND AUTO PARTS STORES. ALUMINUM POWDER
|
||
CAN BE FOUND IN RADIATOR STOP LEAK.
|
||
|
||
SODIUM NITRATE. SOLD BY DRUG STORES AND MEAT PACKING PLANTS.
|
||
|
||
ANTIMONY SULFIDE. IS SOLD BY MOST PLUMBING SUPPLY STORES.
|
||
|
||
NOW YOU PROBABLY WONDER WHERE YOU CAN GET THE PAPER TUBES AND END CAPS. OK JUST
|
||
WRITE:
|
||
|
||
FULL AUTO CO. INC.
|
||
P.O. BOX 1881
|
||
MURFREESBORO, TN. 37133
|
||
|
||
AND ASK FOR A CATALOG.
|
||
M-80 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$5. END PLUGS ARE 200-$3.5
|
||
M-100 SIZE TUBES ARE 100-$9. END PLUGS ARE 200-$5.
|
||
YOU MUST HAVE AN ORDER FORM TO ORDER THIS. THEY ALSO SELL ALL THE CHEMICALS YOU
|
||
NEED TO MAKE FLASH POWDER. YOU MUST BE OVER 21 OR AT LEAST SIGN THE ORDER THAT
|
||
SAYS THAT YOU ARE 21. THERE IS NO WAY THAT THEY CAN FIND OUT. I DO NOT SUGGEST
|
||
THAT YOU BUY THEIR WATER PROOF FUSE BECAUSE IT SUCKS! GO TO A GUN SHOP IN YOUR
|
||
AREA AND ASK FOR CANNON FUSES. IT'S PROBABLY AROUND 35 TO 40 CENTS A FOOT AND
|
||
IS WATER PROOF AND MUCH BETTER QUALITY. YOU DO HAVE TO BE 16 OR 18 TO BUY IT.
|
||
|
||
VE TO
|
||
FRICTION AND PERCUSSION AND EXPLODES WITH GREAT VIOLENCE.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|