528 lines
26 KiB
Plaintext
528 lines
26 KiB
Plaintext
IGNITION DEVICES
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There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
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"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
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mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical
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detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are
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more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an
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electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being
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caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would be easier to
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hide.
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FUSE IGNITION
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The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
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type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse
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in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse
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is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It
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is available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00
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for a nine-foot length. Cannon Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe
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bombers because of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a
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match or lighter. Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the
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grenade, which uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade
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ignition system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But,
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since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to prepare
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a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or lighter, but still
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retains its simplicity. One such method is described below:
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MATERIALS
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_________
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strike-on-cover type matches electrical tape or duct tape
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waterproof fuse
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1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a 6
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inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the
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start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch
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when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of
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fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This
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will be shown below:
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Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time of
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combustion is 20 seconds.
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20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch.
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If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
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time by the number of seconds per inch:
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10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches
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NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME FUSE,
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AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA INCH,
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AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
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2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
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to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and cut
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it off.
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3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not
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pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
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base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one to
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make a second igniter.
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4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
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touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure
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not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by
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pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
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move.
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5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
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making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker
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faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the
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matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the
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matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
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_____________________
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\ /
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\ / ------ match book cover
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\ /
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| M|f|M ---|------- match head
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| A|u|A |
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| T|s|T |
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| C|e|C |
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|tapeH|.|Htape|
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| |f| |
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|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
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|#####|s|#####|
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\ |e| /
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\ |.| /
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\ |f| /
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\ |u| /
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|ta|s|pe|
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|ta|e|pe|
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|f|
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|u|
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|s|
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|e|
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The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
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The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
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matcheads when the match book is pulled.
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6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
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striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
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In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to
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the burning match heads.
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HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
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----------------------------
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Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to work
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with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is your die
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for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but this is the
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right size for the pipe bomb I will be getting to later.
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To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add 1/2
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teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
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cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
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until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
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through very easily.
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Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads and
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hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with a
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circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under with
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the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the paste.
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Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it through
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smoothly in one long motion.
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To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
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degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
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must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
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Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
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dry completely at room temperatures.
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Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air tight
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container. Handle this fuse carefuly to avoid breaking it. You can also use
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a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can usually be pulled
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out without breaking. To give yourself some running time, you will be
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extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick.
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Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
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home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
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boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
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cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,
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it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the end of
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the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder
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or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
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slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.
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A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of
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boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper.
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The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a
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firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
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HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK
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-------------------------
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Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at
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a garden supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can
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test it by lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is
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removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some
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sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at
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250 degrees.
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It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning
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brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The
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melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up
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to cool and harden.
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It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches is about right.
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These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a
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moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are
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great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks.
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Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing
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unpredictable burning times.
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--IMPACT IGNITION
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Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
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terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
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must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
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transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
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removable impact initiator.
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The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made
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initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
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primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such a
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cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are
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also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package
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of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the
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way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on.
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A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
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| | |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
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_______| |^^^^^^^|
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| ___________|
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no. 11 |_______|
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percussion _______ ------- threads for screwing
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cap :
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here |__________ nipple onto bomb
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|____ |
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| |^^^^^^^^^|
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|_| |/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/|
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|_________________|
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When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
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whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
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into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
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on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
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before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
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only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
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strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a
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small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when
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thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb
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with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which
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end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the
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person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
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---MAGICUBE IGNITOR
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A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact iniator can be produced from the
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common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic
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cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has
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a small metal rod holding it in place.
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CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently
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upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.
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Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be
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effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the
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bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the
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plastic can be easily peeled away.
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The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based
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smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thich glue-like paste.
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Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal
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rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely
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covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the
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remainder then ignition should be very reliable.
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To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer
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can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air
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the appropriate end will hit the ground first.
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---ELECTRICAL IGNITION
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Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
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most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
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work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
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of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a
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"safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that
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could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a
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device will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted
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in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation
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sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best
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electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting
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caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in
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packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use
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them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military
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squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they
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explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
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burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX.
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This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are,
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however, military explosive squibs which will do the job.
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Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton,
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which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
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---HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE (By Capt. Hack & GW)
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Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it
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down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case
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of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb
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with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will
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heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
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---ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE
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Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
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to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and
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then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want
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about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good
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size wire to use.
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Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers.
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Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat.
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place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the
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powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
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The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything else
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except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the
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powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under
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on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder.
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The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other.
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A single flashlight battery will set this off.
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---ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
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Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
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mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
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switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
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who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
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explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
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---Mercury Switches
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Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
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conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room
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temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
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electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
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nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to
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explain a mercury switch.
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A / \ B
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_____wire +______/_________ \
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\ ( Hg )| /
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\ _(_Hg___)|___/
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wire - |
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When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
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contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
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its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
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touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
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If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
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touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
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does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This
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type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a
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swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the
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switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt
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the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
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contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or
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squib in an explosive device.
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---Tripwire Switches
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A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
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invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
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by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
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If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
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tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips
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of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between
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them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire
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can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
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the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When
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the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current
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to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
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which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between the
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contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it it to
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explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
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since the spring also conducts electricity.
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---Radio Control Detonators
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In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
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detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
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several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
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explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with
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radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could
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possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money
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involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such
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an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is
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visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
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Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is detach
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the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car,
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or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the
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rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the
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contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times
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with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he
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controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the
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device became a detonator).
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---DELAYS
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A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set
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up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost
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quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the
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different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be
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sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
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does.
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---FUSE DELAYS
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It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
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ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
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cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine
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rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn
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quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less
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likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or
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draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the
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ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the
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cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of
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delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance
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to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes
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burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all
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the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
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the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
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|=| ---------- filter
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|o| ---------- hole for fuse
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cigarette ------------ | |
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|_| ---------- light this end
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---TIMER DELAYS
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Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
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wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
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and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if
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it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By
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simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and
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using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made.
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The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an
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hour is desired.
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The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
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for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that
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in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By
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removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a
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squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made.
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All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
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connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
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watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
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watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a
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timer could be extremely small.
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The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can
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usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
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recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
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connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be
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work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
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electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch
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would not have to be stepped up.
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---CHEMICAL DELAYS
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Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some
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cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The
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delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the
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initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British
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citizenry.
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If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped
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with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through,
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then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil
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to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
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open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is
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forming does not break the container.
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_ _
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| | | |
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| | | |
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| | | |
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| |_____________| |
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| | | |
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| | sulfuric | |
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| | | |
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| | acid | |
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| | | |---------- aluminum foil
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| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
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|_________________|
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The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
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there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
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|
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
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|
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1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats
|
|
through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the
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foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be
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able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
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acid.
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2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid
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drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium
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|
chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to ignite a fuse,
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or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some
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potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this
|
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mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite.
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3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
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-= Exodus =-
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