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***********************************************
* *
* The UNABOM Guide to *
* Blowing up Universities *
* *
* by: Whiz Kid *
* 10/10/93 *
***********************************************
WHY?
****
Why blow up a University or other symbol of "Higher" education?
Because of what they represent. Just like the Catholic Church of
the middle-ages, they represent power, class and repression!
They (and most of society) hold them as the keepers of THE TRUTH.
In fact they are the keepers of dogma, reaction . . . the status quo.
The heirarchy of these institutions with the help of those who support
them, (who themselves all went through the very same system), see only
one role for themselves: to hold onto power through entrenching the
system of which they are a part. They do this through what they claim
is education, but is really only indoctrination. Their job is to
stifle creativity, through unbridled competition, overwhelming their
victims with an excess of useless information, and brainwashing very
specific (and very limiting) rigid ways of looking at the world. You
are not given time to examine the validity and purpose behind what you
are being taught; if you want to "succeed" you must take it all in
without reflection. You must learn to see things they way "they" do.
Most of the "facts" you are taught are merely theories, and have
little if any practical application outside of academe. You are to
analyze the world quantitatively, not qualitatively. Your perspective
from which you view the world must be similar to that of those already
in authority so that you can function in the world as they envision
it; that is the purpose of university!
Beside the purpose of indoctrination, universities have a second
purpose: maintaining social rankings (ie. CLASS, or the Caste system).
Universities are not there to teach, but to weed out as many people as
possible, so that only a very few can attain a degree. Admission
costs are made exorbitant, to keep out those from lower social
classes, or to keep them paying off the debts, so throughout their
lifetimes they never get to experience the full benefits of the higher
rank they have obtained. Every possible obstacle is put in your path
ON PURPOSE. You are supposed to be demoralized. Those who "fail" are
supposed to accept their failure and lower rank in society throughout
their lives. Those who "succeed", accept the system as it is, but
not for what it is. Of course in their avarice, universities have
greatly increased their admissions. To offset this, the failure rates
have been increased and the "value" of a degree has greatly decreased.
In spite of what you may have been lead to believe, bachelor degrees
are not held in any esteem. Most Fortune 500 companies, will not hire
someone into middle-management (never mind upper-management) with only
a Bachelor's degree. Master's degrees are now considered the minimum
and PhD's are preferred. They don't tell you that, or it might lower
the admissions for bachelor programs, one of the largest profit
centers for these institutions. To spend 6 to 10 years in these
places takes great wealth or upper-class connections to allow you to
take advantage of the system at the expense of others. Of course
this is what those in these institutions did for themselves over two
decades ago, when each one (independently) declared that education
for the children of staff members would be FREE at that institution.
That means to cover those additional expenses, the price for
attending these places is much higher for everyone else. Does any
other business give free services or product to the children of its
staff? No! But university isn't just about business, it is also
about social class and maintaining the hierarchy.
The desire to maintain social class is not sufficient to support
such a bloated infrastructure as a university, there must also be
profits. Universities after all are also a business; BIG BUSINESS.
In addition to general operating revenues from governments, one of
the largest sources of funds are the undergraduates (those coming
out of high/secondary schools or colleges). Many more students are
admitted than there are room for, and many are admitted with grades
much lower than those needed to survive the first few months. That
is why fees are so frontend-loaded. These extra students will be
forced to drop out within a month or two, yet the institution keeps
75 or 100 per cent of their whole years tuition! Who cares what
effect all these unwarranted "failures" might have on society. The
university feels no responsibility whatsoever to the community in
which it is situated. It feels no responsibility towards the
students it suckered into attending and paying, and then forced
out. Universities give preference to foreign students over
those from the local community because they can charge far higher
unregulated tuitions to them. This gives those of high caste from
outside the country a better chance, than long term citizens
of North America from working-class families from obtaining
degrees. Just look at the high proportion of foreign students
attending our universities, while many of our own citizens have to
wait years, even with higher marks, to gain admission. All this
money obtained from these new students is used to fund Doctorate
studies and Professors private research projects which are in fact
the most expensive areas in any university. Often universities
have levied "special fees" on the premise of buying new equipment
for the undergraduates, when the money is really going to buy new
equipment for graduate programs. The old and often failing
equipment from the research lab is then sold to the undergraduate
classrooms at "new" prices. This is a clear cut case of fraud.
Another source of income for the universities is research for the
military and industry. Engineering, Physics, Chemistry and
Medicine faculties of ALL universities are nortorious for receiving
military research grants, even in the 90's. The Computer Optical
Recognition Research program you have been told is to provide
artificial sight for the blind is much more likely to be trying
to get computers to recognize the outlines of aircraft, tanks or
artillery for "smart" missles. Who did you think funds most of
the computer engineering research programs for "Artificial
Intelligence? The nuclear physics program to find new sources of
energy for society, is more likely to be looking for a high power
source for military lasers. Business also funds some research to
help it find cheaper production methods using less workers. (Of
course our governments sometimes helps fund these programs that
will eventually put more people out of work.)
So where does all this profit go? Much of it goes to the professors
at the top of this hierarchical system who receive a lot of money
considering how little work they really do. They spend little time
teaching and spend most of their time on their favorite pet research
projects that they hope will make them a millionaire at everbody
else's expense. So who does the teaching? Besides the lectures that
are usually given by the professors, almost all of the work is done by
"Teaching Assistants" who are Master's students, who as part of their
duties to gain this degree must do research for the professor, teach
in Tutorials, and mark all of the papers. How can student's learn in
a Master's degree if they are doing all this work for the professors?
They can't. It is part of their indoctrination into the hierarchy,
and the price they are forced to pay to get this piece of paper so
that they are permitted to go onto their Doctorates (PhD's). PhD's
want to go on to become Professors or to get out into government or
industry. Some Professors, just want tenure, a job GUARANTEED for
life while they sit on their laurels and do a bit of teaching. The
more ambitious ones, and there are many, want to start research
projects at the government's and the university's expense (with their
approval since many there are apart of it), where they can receive
additional guaranteed wages for doing the work they might have done
anyways on their own time, with funding for assistants and equipment,
and if they come up with something commercially viable, even if it is
worth tens of millions, they patent it as their own. The government
get no refund on the expenses, (neither do the undergraduates who were
overcharged to help pay for this), even though profits are now being
made as a result of this funded research. Often most of the work is
done by students, but if they want to get their degrees, the professor
is allowed to take most if not full credit for the discovery!
The professor can now either just sell his patent, or quit and start
his own business based upon this work, and never have to pay back any
of the money he received to do this work in the first place.
Universities have more influence over our society than any other
institution since the majority of those in authority in government,
media and business have gone through and been brainwashed by the
universities. Universities continue to reinforce the existing
class system and will continue to do so if allowed to exist.
UNIVERSITIES MUST BE TORN DOWN BEFORE THEY COMPLETELY DESTROY US!
BOMBS... TOOLS OF THE TRADE
***************************
Shotgun Shell Mine
The simplest and cheapest terrorist device to use on university
grounds is the Shotgun Shell Mine. It can be made for 1/2 a dollar
a piece. It uses a shotshell, two pieces of wood, one nail and some
glue. Take a piece of wood (softer
woods are easier to drill,) and Shotgun Shell
drill a hole slightly larger in primer down
diameter than the shotgun shell. <20>Ŀ
Take a second piece of wood, <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
thinner but the same length and Soft <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ĵ<EFBFBD><C4B4><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
width as the first piece of wood. Wood <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>-ٰ<><D9B0><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
Mark where the center of the <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
whole is on this second piece of Hard <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
wood and drive a nail in this Wood <20>
place so that is slightly sticks Nail
through the thickness of this board.
This second piece should be a hard wood so as to hold the nail, even
under pressure. Glue or nail the two pieces of wood together so that
they look the way the above diagram does. Bury this in earth so that
its top is just below the surface of the ground. Place the shotgun
shell gently in the hole so that its primer (detonator) is resting on
top of the nail. Loosely cover this whole device with soil. When
stepped upon it will obliterate the victims foot! I like to place
them in paths frequented by Campus Police (they are only security
guards, but think they are SS Stormtroopers). If you aren't that
violent, you can place several of them on the grounds and then just
inform the media about them. (More about bomb threats later). The
headlines should make a lot of people think twice about going to that
institution.
Basics of the Pipe Bomb
Pipe bombs are the primary tool of the UNABOMber! They can be used
by themselves of as the explosive device in a mine or letterbomb.
Pipe bombs are classified as "low-explosives" in that they really
don't contain any "explosive" as all. Though an explosive device,
they contain an very fast burning mixture contained in a pressure-
containing vessel. Since it is a sealed container, the mixture must
contain an oxidizer in addition to some sort of fuel. As this burns,
it quickly produces large quatities of gases that are held within the
container. Eventually the pressure builds up to such an extent that
it bursts the container, producing a shock wave, shrapnel, noise and
possibly flame. It is the shock wave and shrapnel that cause most of
the damage. A firecracker works this way, but since its
pressure-containing vessel is only paper, it bursts at fairly low
pressures, producing lots of noise, a bit of flame, but no shrapnel
and only a low-level shockwave. A pipe bomb can use the same fuel,
but it is larger and must have a container capable of handling a much
larger pressure. The pipe is usually steel, but can be aluminum,
heavy duty plastic sewer pipe, or even very thick reinforced cardboard
tubing (though I like to add material to the outside of cardboard to
provide the shrapnel if I want it).
The pressure vessel is usually iron, cast iron or steel piping,
typically 1 to 8 inches in diameter, 3 to 18 inches long. The larger
the volume, the thicker the walls of the pipe have to be to contain
the pressure, until bursting. The higher this pressure the more
powerful the bomb. The ends of the pipe should be threaded to take
threaded end-caps. Lubricate the threads lightly with vaseline to
make it easier to put the ends on. Drill a hole large enough to
take the insulated detonation wires or a incendiary wick. File/sand
off any rough edges around the hole. If you are using a wick you
will have to make the hole somewhat larger than the wick and coat
the inside of the hole with ceramic cement, epoxy or rubber cement.
The reason for this is that if there is a tight fit and a wick
contacts a metal container the metal can conduct the heat of the wick
away, thereby putting it out. An important note: the hole for the
wick or wires should be as small as possible so as to not allow the
pressure to leak out easily. The smaller the hole the better, but not
if it will put out the wick (or short out the detonation wires).
Plastic sewer piping or heavy cardboard can be used for a low X-ray
signature bomb. The power will be less, buy may often be sufficient,
depending on your expectations. It will also reduce the chances of
being picked up by a metal detector, especially if a wick is used
instead of an electrical detonation system that would need metal
wiring. The problem with cardboard is that it is flammable, and with
plastic that it melts, so for such a bomb to work, you must have a
very fast fuel like blackpowder or smokeless powder. For plastic
sewer pipes, the ends are usually glued on, for cardboard, you will
have to improvise, just remember the ends must be extremely firmly
attached and should be as thick the tubes walls, which should be as
thick as possible. To reinforce your plastic or carboard bomb,
tightly wrap it with fiberglass, or fiberglass reinforced tape, going
both from end to end and around. I myself prefer to get an auto-body
repair kit, and once the bomb is made, I coat the whole device,
(being careful around the hole for the wick/wires), with alternating
layers of coating and fiberglass fabric. If you avoid air bubbles,
the fiberglass reinforced plastic/cardboard bomb will be much more
powerful. These bombs do not produce much if any shrapnel. If you
want shrapnel, coat them with epoxy glue (or the resin from the
auto-body kit), and cover the bombs with broken glass or small broken
pieces from ceramic dishes or cups. (Of course even with the metal
pipe bomb, you can increase the shrapnel produced by adding the glass
or how about nails to the outside of the bomb.)
Now comes the propellant, which is a mixture of fuel and oxidizer,
since in the confines of the container, there would be insufficient
oxygen to use a fuel alone. The easiest to get is Blackpoweder/Gun
Powder (preferably FFF grade but FF will do), or Smokeless Powder
(Guncotton) from a local gunshop. They sell it for reloading your
own ammunition. It is preferable to wear a bit of a disguise and
to buy this in another town. Alternately, you can buy Shot Gun
shells from most sporting store or any hardware store that also
sells guns. There are no permits to buy ammunition. Carefully,
open up the shells, (always avoiding the primer at the center back
of the shell). Remove the shot, and save the gun powder. You can
also buy fireworks and remove the powder, but if you have any hardened
cylindrical mixtures they will be for "stars" and are generally too
slow burning for a Pipe bomb. You can make your own incendiary
mixtures such as gunpowder. I have even heard of using a mixture of
4 volumes of Potassium Nitrate, with 1 volume of Icing Sugar, though
I have not used this particular mixture and expect it to be of low
power. I myself for small pipes (1 inch dia. by 3 inches long) have
taken a "C" model rocket booster engine and just sliped the whole
thing into the pipe; it worked reasonably well, and was easy to do.
Be careful not to get any propellant on the threads of the pipe, or
you could ignite the whole thing when you try screwing on the end cap.
NOTE: NEVER FILL A PIPE MORE THAN 2/3 FULL OF PROPELLANT. I typically
fill it 1/2 to 2/3 full. When using a wick, I put the wick in first,
so that it goes right down to the other end (bottom) of the pipe, fill
the pipe so that the wick right through the propellant, then stuff the
remainder of the pipe with a Kleenex (more for large pipes) and then
with loosely crumpled newsprint. The Kleenex acts as a barrier to the
fine powder and the newsprint holds the powder in place so it doesn't
shift. For very large pipes, I put the wick into a paper bag, fill
the bag with approximately the amount of powder I want, tie the top
closed with string (but with the wick sticking out the top), and stuff
the bag into the pipe. I fill the remainder of the pipe with loosely
crumpled newsprint. The bag trick means there is little chance of
spills or getting any powder onto the pipe threads. (Sometimes with
large pipes, I fill it 1/6 to 1/4 with a vial or jar of gasoline, plus
1/2 with the propellant, so that when it blows, there will also be a
fireball!) Tightly screw on the second end cap.
In my work I only use electrical detonation. Not only is it much more
reliable, but it allows you to make a letter-bomb or mine, and be far
away when it goes off. The easiest method to make a squib (electrical
incendiary detonator), is to go to an electronic component store, such
as Radio Shack, and purchase low voltage lamps preferably already with
leads. 1.5 and 6 volt lamps work best. If your lamp does not already
have insulated leads (wires) then solder them on right now before
going any further. Carefully break and remove most of the glass from
the bulb, while not damaging the lamp's filament. Drop one drop of
Crazy Glue (cyanocrylate) onto the filament, and gently dip the wet
filament into blackpowder/gun powder or smokeless powder. The
filament should be coated. You can repeat this a second time. Now
glue or tape a single or double layer paper tube over the whole lamp,
(including its base). Gently fill the tube with more propellant and
cover the top with a thin piece of tape to loosely seal it. This is
your electrical detonator. You should have access to an ohmeter (VOM)
to verify you did not break the lamp's filament. You should also
destructively test the first few electrical detonators you make
outdoors. 6 volt lamps may or may not work with a 1.5 volt source,
but 1.5 volt lamps should work with either a 1.5 or 9 volt battery.
When hooked up (from a distance of a few feet to prevent burns) to
the battery the detonator should flare up like a match or even like
a small piece of fireworks, depending on the size and quantity of
propellant you use. Use the squib in a similar way to the wick,
filling the pipe with about half of the propellant you intend on
using, gently place the detonator in the middle of the propellant,
and then pour in the rest of the propellant, until the pipe is 1/2
to 2/3 full. Pack down with a Kleenex and then some loosely
newsprint paper. Feed the wires through the end cap's hole and
carefully screw on the cap being sure not to twist the insulated
detonation wires. (If you are using the simple to handle rocket
booster engine as your propellant, buy the igniters that go with the
rockets and use those instead of your own detonators. You will
likely have to add your own insulated wires to make them long enough
for your use.) Carefully fill in around the wires with rubber cement
or epoxy glue (DO NOT USE 5 MINUTE EPOXY AS IT GETS TOO HOT).
Once all sealed up, you have a working and very dangerous Pipe Bomb!
DRIVEWAY PIPE MINE
This has proven to be very effective. You put it in your prospective
marks parking place. It looks like something meant to puncture holes
in his cars tires, but when picked up, it blows up in his face! Take
two 2by4's. Drive several long nails completely through one of them
so that they very clearly stick out of the board
Take the second 2x4 and Side <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
cut a hole in it large view <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
enough to fit your Pipe of <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
bomb a battery a slide first <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
switch and a small 2 x 4 <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
lever-type "micro" switch.
The switch should have a "Normally closed" set of contacts. What
this means is that if the lever is not pushed a circuit is made.
Most of these types of swiches have three contacts: a "Normally Open"
contact you are not interested in, the "Normally Closed" lead you are
interested in and a "Common" lead you are also interested in. You
may also wish to connect a safety (slide) switch so that the bomb can
not be detonated until you want it to be. Now, you will wire the two
switches, the battery and the detonator leads all in series, and
mount them in the hollowed out piece of wood. The two pieces of wood
are then glued together so that the lever is pushed when the unit is
on the ground and is not pushed (thereby detonating the bomb) when
the unit is picked up. Be careful you don't want to blow yourself up.
Top view of the <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
hollowed out <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><>ͻ <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>¿<EFBFBD><C2BF><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
2 by 4, with two <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20>9V<39>switchs<68><73> PIPE BOMB <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
switches the bomb <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>ٱ<EFBFBD><D9B1><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
and battery installed! <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
SIDE Nails <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
VIEW <20> <20> <20> <20> <20> <20>
WHEN Top 2 x 4 <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
BOTH <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
2X4s Hollowed <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
ARE out 2 x 4 <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
GLUED \
TOGETHER Micro Switch Lever \
If you have no electrical background (you don't need much) get a book
out on the subject and read about introductory circuits and about
series circuits. That is all you will need.
Keep the (safety) slide switch in the OFF (Open) position until you
are ready to place the bomb. Take a thick piece of paper and wrap it
around the bottom of the bomb so that it holds the lever up. Fold
the ends of the card or thick paper so they go somewhat up the sides
of the unit and tape them in place. When you are ready to place the
bomb, change the slide swich to the ON (closed) position, put the
bomb in its place in somebody's parking spot or driveway, untape the
sides of the protective card and gently slide it from under the bomb.
The unit is now ARMED. If the mark doesn't see it and drives over
it, there will be appreciable damage to his car. If he sees it and
picks it up, it will blow up in his hands. If he is right over it
when he picks it up, it is possible that the top piece of wood with
the protruding nails will be driven by the explosion into his body.
LETTER BOMB
Letter bombs have the great advantage that you can send them anywhere
in the World! I have successfully mailed these throughout North
America.
To make a letter bomb the way I do, you will need a LEAF SWITCH.
These can be made, but I buy them from small electronic component
stores, either for the repairman or those handling surplus components.
Radio shack will not carry this item. A leaf switch has two or three
thin pieces of copper (actually a phosphor-bronze alloy to make it
springy). They also have either plastic or other thin insulating
material to insulate the various pieces from each other. They may
also have a plastic lever connected to the contacts to move them. If
there is a lever you won't need it, and you can cut it off. If there
are two contacts touching, these will be the ones you use, if there
isn't you will have to bend two contacts so that they are. You will
solder a wire to each of these contacts, and this will be your switch.
This is connected in series with your battery and your detonation
wires coming out of your pipe bomb. If you use a 1.5 volt mercury
button cell (hearing aid battery) and a non-metallic pipe bomb, this
device will usually pass metal detectors and X-ray equipment, since
with the metal detectors the small amount of metal in the switch,
small button battery and short wires will often assumed to be too
little for a bomb, and will assume to be staples and a paperclip.
Bend this contact down to touch the other
Solder a wire to each <20><>İ<EFBFBD><C4B0><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
of these two contacts <20><>İ<EFBFBD><C4B0><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> Stick a long piece of
paper between the two
These switches are usually quite contacts to keep the
small only 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches switch OFF (open)
long and very thin
Leaf swiches are used in consumer electronics, such as portable tape
recorders to sense when a lever has moved. You will place a long
strip of paper in between the contacts so that the circuit will be
broken. When wired in series with the battery and detonator wires,
this is your trigger switch. You will tape the other end of the long
strip of paper to papers you have included as a disguise in your
envelope. When the papers are removed from the envelope or otherwise
separated from the bomb, they will pull out the long strip from
between the contacts of the leaf switch, the contacts will touch, the
circuit will be made and the bomb will go off! I put the whole
device including the decoy papers into a padded shipping envelope and
glue or tape the bomb itself to the corner furthest away from where
the envelope is most likely to be opened. By securely fastening the
bomb to the envelope you remove any chance the contents will shift
around due to rough handling by the post office, which could cause
the piece of paper to pull out of the leaf switch and the bomb to go
off.
Pull-To-Open strip if it has one
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>/<2F><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
<20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>Ŀ
<20> <20> Papers to <20> OPEN END
<20> <20> <20> Disguise the <20> OF
<20> <20> Tape <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> real contents<74> ENVELOPE
<20> <20> <20> of package! <20> TO BE
<20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>¿<EFBFBD> Strip of Paper
<20> CLOSED
<20> <20><>PIPE BOMB<4D><42><EFBFBD> Switch <20> WITH A
<20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>ٱBattery <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> COUPLE
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> STAPLES
Be sure not to attach the decoy papers to the inside of the envelope
only the bomb (which has the battery and switch glued onto it).
Fold over the open end of the over and staple it closed once or twice.
Mail it off to your target and when they open it and try to remove the
papers . . . BOOM!
SUPPLIES AND CONSTRUCTION
*************************
You don't want your actions being traced back to you so here are a few
tips: - Buy your supplies well in advance of building or
installing/mailing your devices
- try to get your supplies in common places like K-mart stores
the more available (common) the items the more it makes it
impossible for them to be traced to any particular source
- for any suspicious supplies like gun powder, get them out of
town, get them well before you intend to use them and if
possible wear a simple disguise (it only has to be a hat,
sunglasses, possibly a bandaid somewhere on your face to
distract peoples attention, and clothing that you would
never normally wear. You can go to a place for the
homeless/down-and-out to get the clothing, since after
getting all the supplies you need you will not need them
again and will throw the clothing out.)
- try not to use anything that if not destroyed would give the
police clues. That is why I don't use newspapers crumpled
up in the pipes to keep things in place, I go to K-mart and
get the cheapest quality paper available, usually newsprint
Newpapers will give the police your possible location and a
date.
- Don't leave fingerprints on anything! Wear gloves whenever
possible, while making and mailing/placing devices
- Don't ever tell anybody what you are doing
- If you are working in a group (I prefer working alone so
there is nobody who could snitch on me), keep your group as
small as possible
- If you inform the media (I don't) make sure it is not
tracable back to you
- NEVER watch your target or target area after mailing/placing
a device. The police often photograph any mob in case their
perpetrator is watching the action. The same goes for media
videos; the police often get copies to see if their "perp"
was captured on tape watching.
- NEVER go back to the scene to look for traces of damage
it is the same situation as above and therefore you are only
looking for trouble
- Try to make things untracable, whether it be your writing
or the source where things originated from, DO NOT MAIL
LETTERS FROM YOUR HOME TOWN, it is better to drive 50 miles
and mail it from there. It is also better to mail items
from Mail Boxes in larger towns or cities, rather than from
an actual Post Office.
- So that letters look legitimate, it is best to put on a
secondary target that is another university as the return
address and IF POSSIBLE mail it from or near that city.
When the target sees it is from another institution they
will be less likely to question it. Also if you screw up
and put insufficient postage on the package, it would get
"returned" to the secondary target who will then open it.
- Get yourself a cheap scale to weigh your packages, and a
flyer from the post office listing postal rates
TARGETTING
**********
NEVER hit the exact same target twice! If you are going to pick the
same institution more than once, leave some time between hits, and try
to make each one a bit different. Try not to have any pattern. Don't
hit the exact same type of office or researcher each time. Don't mail
using the same type of padded envelope, or use the exact looking type
of mine. Don't mail it from the same city. Don't do it on a specific
date, day of the week, season of the year, or even time of day. You
want to leave no pattern to your destruction. This is what the police
look for, and why I have never even been a suspect! Leave no clues.
You may already know your target. This is one of the few ways you can
get caught: if your target suspects you. In this situation you MUST
wait a long time so that you will be forgotten . . . never suspected!
This can take years. I myself have waited as long as 5 years to HIT a
target under this situation, and of course, I have never been
approached as a suspect for these incidences.
I have never met most of my targets, which means there is absolutely
no reason to suspect me. I see them in newspapers, or on television,
or I go to the local university libraries and look through military,
medical, engineering, physics and chemical journals to see who is
doing research on what dispicable projects.
I often visit universities years before I hit them, or write using a
fake name and say I am interested in possibly attending their
institution and so I would like pamphlets and even a campus map. Then
while in a bit of a disguise, I wander through their campus and
buildings, not going into offices but noting what is on the office
and laboratory doors. If you ever get stopped by campus security,
all you have to say is that you are lost and looking for the
admissions office or a washroom. If you go during school hours there
will be so many people around, you will just be another nameless face.
If you go during the first few weeks of the school year (September)
there will be so many new students there who don't know their way
around the campus, that it will be a common occurence for people to
get lost and be where they shouldn't be. Note anything and any names
that seem interesting. Use your imagination and your knowledge.
If you see a door that says "Fluoro-Organo-Phosphate Research" (or
Organo-Fluoro-Phosphate Storage) you know they are doing research on
NERVE GAS! Artificial Intelligence and Computer Optical Recognition
laboratories are also centers of military research. Look for obvious
signals such as signs saying: "Danger", "Caution", "Hazardous",
"Radiation", "Bio-Hazard", etc. If you also see names and room
numbers note them too, so you will have more details on your mailing
address. Often there will also be bulletin boards listing the senior
members or administration in a department. Note everything you think
might become a target. If you go to retraining/work counselling
centres, many have all sorts of literature on the various universities
and some of this lists the top people at these institutions . . . all
potential targets!
BOMB THREATS
************
I myself don't believe in either threats or warnings. If I targetted
a mark, I intend to hit them. I consider it as something that just
would add to my risks, though if done properly, those risks are next
to zero.
In the United States, 98% of all bomb threats are false.
You could have various reasons for wanting to make a Bomb Threat:
- you might not have left any devices but just want to disrupt
exams, ceremonies, seminars, etc. This is often not very
effective unless you have planted a fake device. A
suspicious looking package or bag, preferably set up so that
the contents can not be viewed, or if it can be viewed,
containing a pipe full or sand or other matter to weigh it
down. It must look like it Could be a real bomb.
- you have left a device but you only want to damage property
and not cause any personal injuries to anyone
- you want the device to be found so that their is neither any
property damage nor injuries, as you only want to get media
attention for a cause, or to scare prospective students
away from that university. (Maybe instead of being against
the system, you want to be a part of it, but you want to
decrease the numbers applying for admission, so that you
will have a much better chance of being accepted there.)
There are two primary methods of making a bomb threat: in writing and
by telephone.
When making a bomb threat in writing there are several concerns:
- Never leave any fingerprints on anything!
(Not even the postage stamp)
- Do not leave traces of your saliva for DNA analysis, by
licking either the envelope shut or the stamp; use water.
- Get common stationary available anywhere in North America
Buy your supplies from chain stores/franchises such as 7-11,
K-Mart or Wal-Mart.
- Do not use this stationary for any other purpose and use
"fresh" stationary. The police will look for imprints from
you writing onto another piece of paper that was on top of
this one. Don't give them any legitimate clues
- If writing or printing your threat, do it in a writing style
different from your own. Do not use typewriters as they can
help the police reduce the possible number of suspects as
different models have different type styles, and with age
and wear, your particular typewriter might have an
identifiable peculiarity. Computer printers are so common,
they are not tracable but will still make the perpetrator
someone who has access to one, thereby making the police's
job a little bit easier, though not much.
- Mail it from a letter box a very good distance from where
you are living. Why give any clues with the Post Office
Stamp Cancellation Mark (the thing that dates when the
letter was sent, and which sorting station it went to).
- Send it to a media outlet (or maybe to your target), but do
NOT send it directly to the police. If you don't send it,
to a media outlet (or even better to both a newspaper and a
television station), it will probably Never will become
public knowledge. Also if it is not sent to the police, a
lot more people will have handled it, making it practically
useless for forensic purposes.
When making a threat by telephone you should follow these guidelines
so as not to leave any useful clues:
- Do not use any telephone you would normally use. It is even
better if you can use a phone that is far away (many miles)
from where you would normally call from. Payphones are best
- If you are familiar with Phone Phreaking, use a diverter or
similar system to make it even harder for the authorities to
track down where the call originated from
- Do NOT leave any fingerprints on the phone nor anywhere near
it
- NEVER CALL THE POLICE!
- Rehearse carefully what you intend on saying and on what
information you intend on giving out. Do not give any more
information than you intended. Do you want them to know who
or what the target is? Where is the bomb? When or how will
it go off? Why you want them to think it was planted or
mailed, (you don't have to tell them the truth)? You are in
control, and you will decide what information they will or
won't get. If you make any minor excursions from what you
planned don't worry about it, just as long as they are minor
- If possible, try not to be seen at the telephone, and wear a
disguise to, at and when leaving the telephone. A hooded
top, hats/caps, sunglasses, extra clothing to make you look
larger, are all useful. If you have driven to the telephone
make sure you have parked a good distance away so that your
license number can not be connected to the person who was at
that telephone making the call.
- Assume you may be recorded.
- Disguise your voice. The police will ask whoever got the
message what your voice sounded like:
<20> was it shrill or hoarse
<20> did the person sound in control or agitated
<20> were they young or old sounding
<20> did they have any noticable accent
<20> did they seem to have any speech impediment?
- Keep your message short and simple. Don't let them keep you
on the line. Tell them what you have to say and don't
answer their questions.
- Preferably, tell your message to the first person you get on
the line. Don't let them transfer you to ANYBODY as it will
probably be somebody familiar with such calls, and they will
likely be tape-recording the call, taking notes, or have
security personel on the line with them.
- The police will ask about any background noises the
receiver of the call heard, so provide your own FALSE ones.
Take a portable tape player (with speaker) with you to
provide the false clues. You could have recorded music,
traffic noises, a subway rush-hour crowd, children playing
in a school yard, it just has to be loud enough to drown out
any real background noises that could be a clue as to where
you were calling from, and yet not so loud as to completely
drown out your message. The background noise will also
distract the listener, so they are less likely to note
characteristics of your disguised voice. Why give the
police ANY clues? Erase the tape when you are finished with
it.
- Electronic voice disguising equipment will solve all your
disguise problems, but if found in your possession at any
time can also help to make you a suspect.
This guide has been specifically written for the bombing of
universities but can be used for any situation. Universities have an
inordinate influence over our society, whether it be through social
class structure or influencing those who control or will control the
media, industry and government. You can change our society for the
better by reducing the influence of universities.
BOMBS CAN CHANGE SOCIETY FOR THE BETTER. GIVE ONE AWAY TODAY!
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