682 lines
31 KiB
Plaintext
682 lines
31 KiB
Plaintext
So you want to become a Mercinary
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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by The Armagedeon
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Disclaimer (hey I gotta cover my ass too)
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I am in ABSOLUTELY NO WAY responsible for the methods used in this
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text. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS. Don't even think about using the
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methods in this book against me, mainly because I have a MUCH larger supply
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of stuff like this then you do. (and I might add that I have close to 100
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lbs. of high explosives ex.TNT) I also have my other private book "so you
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want to foil a mercenary".
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Well with that over I can move to the good stuff.
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The main things needed to become a merc is: many fake ID's, a gun
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store (where else are you gonna get gun powder for explosives), a hardware
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store (very useful for chemicals and other stuff), some money, this book
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(duh!), a clean record (at least in the town your in), and some form of
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transportation.
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What you first need to do is to study your subject VERY intensly. (when I
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say VERY I mean you should know about as much as he knows about himself or
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more) Watch when he leaves his house look for patterns in his schedual,
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take notes (keep all notes together I'll tell you why later), know his car,
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know the license plate #, know the serial # (found on the windshield on the
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drivers side at the bottom), look for patterns of when he is alone. Above
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all though, be very careful about the way you get this information. You
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wouldn't want this person to know about your little information gathering,
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because he's liable to call the Pigs (oops) Cops on you. Be VERY secretive.
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Don't trust anyone with any information about you or your subject. Live by
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your fake ID, (it's best to get one that's from a different country). Don't
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live in a house, live in an appartment, and pay cash for everything. Don't
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get a credit card, chequeing account, or any account for that matter. Always
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use cash. Use don't file income tax and basically don't exist (legally).
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you'll need this!
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How To Create A New Indentity By The Walking Glitch
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Courtesy of the Jolly Roger!
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You might be saying, "Hey Glitch, what do I need a new identity for?"
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The answer is simple. You might want to go buy liquor somewhere, right?
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You might want to go give the cops the false name when you get busted
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so you keep your good name, eh? You might even want to use the new
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identity for getting a P.O. Box for carding. Sure! You might even
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want the stuff for renting yourself a VCR at some dickless loser of a
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convenience store. Here we go:
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Getting a new ID isn't always easy, no one said it would be. By following
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these steps, any bozo can become a new bozo in a coupla weeks.
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STEP 1
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The first step is to find out who exactly you'll become. The
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most secure way is to use someone's ID who doesn't use it themselves.
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The people who fit that bill the best are dead. As an added bonus they
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don't go complaining one bit. Go to the library and look
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through old death notices. You have to find someone who was born about
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the same time as you were, or better yet, a year or two older
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so you can buy booze, etc. You should go back as far as you can for the
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death because most states now cross index deaths to births so people
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can't do this in the future. The cutoff date in Wisconsin is 1979, folks
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in this grand state gotta look in 1978 or earlier. Anything earier there
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is cool. Now, this is the hardest part if you're younger. Brats that
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young happen to be quite resilient, takin' falls out of three story windows
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and eating rat poison like its Easter candy, and not a scratch or
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dent. There ain't many that die, so ya gotta look your ass off. Go
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down to the library and look up all the death notices you can,
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if it's on microfilm so much the better. You might have to go through
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months of death notices though, but the results are well worth it.
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You gotta get someone who died locally in most instances: the death
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certificate is filed only in the county of death. Now you go down to
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the county courthouse in the county where he died and get the
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death certificate, this will cost you around $3-$5 depending on the state
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you're in. Look at this hunk of paper, it could be your way to
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vanish in a clould of smoke when the right time comes, like right after
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that big scam. If You're lucky, the slobs parents signed him up with
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social security when he was a snot nosed brat. That'll be another piece
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of ID you can get. If not, thats ok too. It'll be listed on the death
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certificate if he has one. If you're lucky, the stiff was born
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locally and you can get his birth certificate right away.
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STEP 2
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Now check the place of birth on the death certificate, if it's in
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the same place you standing now you're all set. If not, you can mail
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away for one from that county but its a minor pain and it might
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take a while to get, the librarian at the desk has listings of where
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to write for this stuff and exactly how much it costs. Get the Birth
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cirtificate, its worth the extra money to get it certified
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because thats the only way some people will accept it for ID. When yur
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gettin this stuff the little forms ask for the reason you want it,
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instead of writing in "Fuck you", try putting in the word "Geneology".
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They get this all the time. If the Death certificate looks good for
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you, wait a day or so before getting the certified birth certificate
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in case they recognize someone wanting it for a dead guy.
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STEP 3
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Now your cookin! You got your start and the next part's easy.
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Crank out your old Dot matrix printer and run off some mailing labels
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addressed to you at some phony address. Take the time to check your
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phony address that there is such a place. Hotels that rent by the month
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or large apartment buildings are good, be sure to get the right zip
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code for the area. These are things that the cops might notice that
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will trip you up. Grab some old junk mail and paste your new lables
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on them. Now take them along with the birth certificate down to the library.
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Get a new library card. If they ask you if you had one before say that
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you really aren't sure because your family moved around alot when
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you were a kid. Most libraries will allow you to use letters as a form
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of ID when you get your card. If they want more give them a sob story
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about how you were mugged and got your wallet stolen with all your
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identification. Your card should be waiting for you in about two weeks.
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Most libraries ask for two forms of ID, one can be your trusty Birth
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Certificate, and they do allow letters addressed to you as a second
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form.
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STEP 4
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Now you got a start, it isn't perfect yet, so let's continue. You should
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have two forms of ID now. Throw away the old letters, or better yet
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stuff them inside the wallet you intend to use with this stuff.
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Go to the county courthouse and show them what nice ID you got and get
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a state ID card. Now you got a picture ID. This will take about two weeks
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and cost about $5, its well worth it.
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STEP 5
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If the death certificate had a social security number on it you can go
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out and buy one of those metal SS# cards that they sell.
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If it didn't, then you got all kinds of pretty ID that shows exactly
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who you are. If you don't yet have an SS#, Go down and apply for one,
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these are free but they could take five or six weeks to get,
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Bureaucrats you know... You can invent a SS# too if ya like, but the motto
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of 'THE WALKING GLITCH' has always been "Why not excellence?".
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STEP 6
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If you want to go whole hog you can now get a bank account in your new
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name. If you plan to do alot of traveling then you can put alot
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of money in the account and then say you lost the account book. After
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you get the new book you take out all the cash. They'll hit you
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with a slight charge and maybe tie-up your money some, but if you're
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ever broke in some small town that bank book will keep you from being
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thrown in jail as a vagrant.
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ALL DONE?
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So kiddies, you got ID for buying booze, but what else? In some towns
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(the larger the more likely) the cops if they catch you for something
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petty like shoplifting stuff under a certain dollar amount, will just
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give you a ticket, same thing for pissing in the street. Thats it!
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No fingerprints or nothing, just pay the fine (almost always over $100)
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or appear in court. Of course they run a radio check on your ID, you'll
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be clean and your alter-ego gets a blot on his record.
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Your free and clear. Thats worth the price of the trouble you've gone
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through right there. If your smart, you'll toss that ID away if this
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happens, or better yet, tear off your picture and give the ID to someone
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you don't like, maybe they'll get busted with it.
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If you're a working stiff, here's a way to stretch your dollar. Go to work
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for as long as it takes to get unemployment and then get yourself fired.
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Go to work under the other name while your getting the unemployment.
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With a couple of sets of ID, you can live like a king. These concepts
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for survival in the new age come to you compliments of THE WALKING GLITCH.
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First release of this phile 7/7/88.
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This is for putting in their car
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Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
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This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
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calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
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can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
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stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
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water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
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produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
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cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
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pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
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fireball!
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(About the notes always keep them together just in case you are
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successful and the Cops suspect you, you can very easily destroy them.)
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The next article is best for remote execution
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Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
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- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
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recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
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- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
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to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
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(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
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- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
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You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
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and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
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would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
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your bomb!!
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- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
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Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
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fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
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one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
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cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
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outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
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explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
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powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
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the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
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least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
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flesh!).
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-Jolly Roger-
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Wasn't that just ever so much fun!!
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Here's one that you'll really get a blast out of
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Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
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Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
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chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
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Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
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be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
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$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
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agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
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ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
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military applications in the WWII era.
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Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
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must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
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readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
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sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
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but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
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Making the mixture:
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[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
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one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
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and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
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[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
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weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
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of sugar.
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[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
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ratio.
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It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
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substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
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of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
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friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
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blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
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You have been warned!
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SolidOx can no longer be bought in KMart. A plumbing and heating supply
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store, or even Sears may have small quantities for sale, at about
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$18.00 for 10 stix.
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---Exodus
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Another truely original form of sabotage (which is original because I
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just thought of it) is to load a tennis ball FULL of strike anywhere match
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heads and keep that around. Then you take a dish, fill it up with drano,
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then put it in a place that is it very likely that it wouldn't be noticed.
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Put the tennis ball under the drivers side seat so that when he sits down he
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will put pressure on the tennis ball. Put LOTS of aluminum foil in the dish
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of drano and close the door. This is a sure fire winner because by sitting
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down he will make the tennis ball with match head go up and Drano + aluminum
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=HYDROGEN HA HA HA!!!! You shouldn't be hearing from that loser again (or at
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least until he gets out of the burn unit which should be a couple of years)
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PRETTY GOOD EH!!!!!
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Another truely great trap is the Exploding lightbulbs which is a light
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bulb taken apart without disturbing the filament you fill the glass with
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black powder or some other nasty explosive. You assemble the bulb again and
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presto you have an exploding lightbulb. You put it into the socket (with the
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switch off of course)and then it is armed and ready. If they turn on the
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switch BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The coroner has to pick
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them up with a sponge!!!!!!!
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Another GREAT one is the LAND MINE (HE HE HE ) so here's the article.
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How to make a landmine by The Jolly Roger
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First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
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and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
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a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
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piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
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desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
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the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
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from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
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switch-----------battery
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\ /
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\ /
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\ /
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\ /
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solar igniter
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explosive
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Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
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igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
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tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
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materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
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and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
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visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
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because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
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short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
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burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
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enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
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-EXODUS-
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Or if you're afraid you might blow yourself to pieces you can use the
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weaponless death (HE HE HE)
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-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----
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AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK II.....
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Courtesy of Exodus
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This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
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of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
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When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
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There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
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Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
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The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
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When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
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use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:
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1. The knife edge of your hands.
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2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
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3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
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4. The heel of your hand.
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5. Your boot
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6. Elbows
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7. Knees
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8. and Teeth.
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Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
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won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
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At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
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body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
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two purposes.
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1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
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2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
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more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
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enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
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your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
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one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
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stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
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with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
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should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
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balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
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boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
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throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
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the body. We will cover them now:
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Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
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Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
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along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
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blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
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with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this<69>will shove the
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bone up into the brain causing death.
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Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
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get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
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should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
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minutes.
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Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
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enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
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kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.
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Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
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the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
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use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
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Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
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extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
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pain, and unconciosness.
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Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
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motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
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caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
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internal bleeding in the brain.
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Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
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hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.
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Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
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close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
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of your hand can cause death.
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There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
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work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
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and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
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Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
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Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
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to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
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before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
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(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)
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Its GRRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!
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here's another of the primative sort enjoy!!
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Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
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In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture
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of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of
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the blow gun described in this article IS a felony.
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So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.
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Needed:
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1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece)
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2. A regular pencil
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3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not
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obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle.
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4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter
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Constructing the dart:
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1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser)
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of the pencil till it comes off.
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2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then
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push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape).
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3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
|
||
4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
|
||
|
||
#####
|
||
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
|
||
> is the head of the pencil
|
||
- is the pin it-self
|
||
/ is the head of the pin
|
||
|
||
Using the Darts:
|
||
|
||
1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube
|
||
(if it is too small put on more yarn.)
|
||
2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
|
||
3rd- blow on the end of the pipe.
|
||
4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I
|
||
suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel
|
||
a lot better.
|
||
-= Exodus =-
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
Here's one for the SUICIDAL mercinary!
|
||
|
||
Nitroglycerin Recipe by the Jolly Roger
|
||
|
||
Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the greatest care
|
||
and caution when you are doing this. Even if you have made this stuff
|
||
before.
|
||
This first article will give you information on making
|
||
nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
|
||
straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.
|
||
Making nitroglycerin
|
||
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with fuming
|
||
red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
|
||
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room
|
||
temp.
|
||
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of
|
||
fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words, add to the
|
||
now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of fuming sulferic acid.
|
||
When mixing any acids, always do it slowly and carefully to
|
||
avoid splattering.
|
||
4. When the two are mixed, lower thier temp. By adding more ice
|
||
to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade. (Use a
|
||
mercury-operated thermometer)
|
||
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature,
|
||
it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in
|
||
small amounts using a medicine dropper. (Read this step about
|
||
10 times!) Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean
|
||
careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it covered with
|
||
it.
|
||
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will take place
|
||
as soon as the glycerin is added. The nitration will produce
|
||
heat, so the solution must be kept below 30 degrees
|
||
centigrade! If the solution should go above 30 degrees,
|
||
immediately dump the solution into the ice bath! This will
|
||
insure that it does not go off in your face!
|
||
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
|
||
gently stirred. In a normal reaction the nitroglycerin will
|
||
form as a layer on top of the acid solution, while the sulferic
|
||
acid will absorb the excess water.
|
||
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
|
||
formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be
|
||
transferred slowly and carefully to another beaker of water.
|
||
When this is done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottem
|
||
so the other acids can be drained away.
|
||
9. After removing as much acid as posible without disturbing the
|
||
nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and
|
||
place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case
|
||
you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkalai and will
|
||
nuetralize much of the acid remaining. This process should be
|
||
repeated as much as necesarry using blue litmus paper to check
|
||
for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only makes the
|
||
nitroglycerin more unstable than it already is.
|
||
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from
|
||
the bicarbonate. His is done with and eye- dropper, slowly
|
||
and carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been
|
||
successful is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal
|
||
and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with
|
||
a clear blue flame.
|
||
** Caution **
|
||
Nitro is very sensative to decomposition, heating dropping, or
|
||
jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
|
||
---------Exodus--------
|
||
|
||
now just leave it on his porch against the door or something like that so he
|
||
spills it and BOOOOOMMMM!!!!! the only problem here is getting it to his
|
||
house without going BOOM yourself (I can't offer any suggestions because
|
||
I've been smart enough NOT to mess with the stuff)
|
||
|
||
Here's a great one to do to his car:
|
||
|
||
Unstable Explosives by the Jolly Roger
|
||
|
||
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with househould ammonia. Wait overnight and
|
||
then pour off the liquid. You will be left with a muddy substance. Let
|
||
this dry till it hardens. Now throw it at something!!!!
|
||
|
||
------------Exodus-----------
|
||
|
||
What you do with this stuff is to put in his door hinge or something that
|
||
contacts hard when he normally drives.
|
||
|
||
This one is a MUST for the serious mercinary
|
||
|
||
Low Signature Systems (Silencers) by the Jolly Roger
|
||
|
||
Low signature systems (silencers) for improvised small arms weapons
|
||
can be made from steel gas or water pipe and fittings.
|
||
|
||
Material Required:
|
||
-----------------
|
||
Grenade Container
|
||
Steel pipe nipple, 6 in. (15 cm) long - (see table 1 for diameter)
|
||
2 steel pipe couplings - (see table 2 for dimensions)
|
||
Cotton cloth - (see table 2)
|
||
Drill
|
||
Absorbent cotton
|
||
|
||
Procedure:
|
||
---------
|
||
1) Drill hole in grenade container at both ends to fit outside diameter
|
||
of pipe nipple. (see table 1)
|
||
|
||
-> /----------------------\
|
||
/ | |
|
||
2.75 in | ) ( <-holes
|
||
dia. \ | |
|
||
-> \-----------------------/
|
||
|
||
|-----------------------|
|
||
5 in.
|
||
|
||
2) Drill four rows of holes in pipe nipple. Use table 1 for diameter and
|
||
location of holes.
|
||
|
||
(Note: I suck at ASCII art!)
|
||
|
||
6 in.
|
||
|-----------------------------------|
|
||
_____________________________________ ___
|
||
| O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O | | C (nom. dia.)
|
||
-------------------------------------
|
||
(size of hole) | \ / (space between)
|
||
B (dia.) A
|
||
|
||
|
||
3) Thread one of the pipe couplings on the drilled pipe nipple.
|
||
4) Cut coupling length to allow barrel of weapon to thread fully into low
|
||
signature system. Barrel should butt against end of the drilled pipe
|
||
nipple.
|
||
5) Seperate the top half of the grenade container from the bottom half.
|
||
6) Insert the pipe nipple in the drilled hole at the base of the bottom
|
||
half of the container. Pack theabsorbent cotton inside the container and
|
||
around the pipe nipple.
|
||
7) Pack the absorbent cotton in top half of grenade container leaving
|
||
hole in center. Assemble container to the bottom half.
|
||
8) Thread the other coupling onto the pipe nipple.
|
||
|
||
Note: A longer container and pipe nipple, with same "A" and "B"
|
||
dimensions as those given, will furthur reduce the signature of the
|
||
system.
|
||
|
||
How to use:
|
||
----------
|
||
|
||
1) Thread the low signature system on the selected weapon securely.
|
||
2) Place the proper cotton wad size into the muzzle end of the system
|
||
(see table 2)
|
||
3) Load weapon
|
||
4) Weapon is now ready for use
|
||
|
||
TABLE 1 -- Low Signature System Dimensions
|
||
------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
(Coupling) Holes per (4 rows)
|
||
A B C D Row Total
|
||
------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
.45 cal 3/8 1/4 3/8 3/8 12 48
|
||
|
||
.38 cal 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
|
||
|
||
9 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
|
||
|
||
7.62 mm 3/8 1/4 1/4 1/4 12 48
|
||
|
||
.22 cal 1/4 5/32 1/8* 1/8 14 50
|
||
------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
*Extra Heavy Pipe
|
||
(All dimensions in inches)
|
||
|
||
|
||
TABLE 2 -- Cotton Wadding - Sizes
|
||
---------------------------------
|
||
|
||
-------------------------------------------------
|
||
Weapon Cotton Wadding Size
|
||
-------------------------------------------------
|
||
.45 cal 1-1/2 x 6 inches
|
||
|
||
.38 cal 1 x 4 inches
|
||
|
||
9 mm 1 x 4 inches
|
||
|
||
7.62 mm 1 x 4 inches
|
||
|
||
.22 cal Not needed
|
||
-------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
||
(Note: you MUST get the specs exact for silencers or else YOU will be
|
||
the victim, I just thought I'd mention that)
|
||
|
||
Now for those of you who don't want to buy a gun or register it. You
|
||
can make one (of course you might not want to register it because it's
|
||
ILLEGAL)
|
||
|
||
One very good method if your mark is a Cop is shoot him with armor
|
||
percing bullets. These can be made very easily all you do is buy a teflon
|
||
coated pan, scrape off the teflon, melt it down dip the tips of the bullets
|
||
in it and let them cool. Now you have your very own set of cop killers.
|
||
Isn't that nice hehehe!!!!!!!!
|
||
|
||
Another nice little bullet creation is the dum dum bullet. To make it just
|
||
saw off the tip of the bullet sand it down and mark it with a *. It should
|
||
look like my diagram or at least close to it. What this baby does is instead
|
||
of mushrooming or staying whole is breaks apart in mid air and tears the
|
||
target to shreds with the nice little shrapnel effect it has. Try hunting
|
||
with that.
|
||
|
||
|--------\___
|
||
| ___| (*)
|
||
|--------/
|
||
|
||
Well this is about it for this book. Happy Hunting! (and remember this is
|
||
for entertainment purposes I am in no way encouraging you to do anything)
|
||
|
||
***************************************************************************
|
||
696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696969696
|
||
This has been an Armagedeon production
|
||
(c)1996 destribute as much as you want as long as you do not alter it or
|
||
put your name on it saying that it's your product. If you do I'll have to
|
||
hunt you!!!! Remember that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
||
|
||
Look for the next issue featuring POISONS!!!!!
|
||
Here on Dynamite BBS the home BBS of the Armagedeon!!!
|
||
If you like this leave me e-mail telling me your comments or critiques.
|