193 lines
9.5 KiB
Plaintext
193 lines
9.5 KiB
Plaintext
1.28.94
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ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
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³ TREE PINNING: THE ART OF SILENT TREE SPIKING ³
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³From: ECODEFENSE: a Field Guide to Monkeywrenching³
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ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´
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³Expanded upon and written by: Excessive Mayhem³
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ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙ
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NOTE: This methods described in this file have not been tested by ME.
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It has been taken from an EARTH FIRST! guide. It is not a
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word for word copy of what's in the book, but I have added very
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little of my own principals. Although _I_ have not tested this,
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you can be sure that the author of the original article has, and
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that it works. -EM
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Okay. This file is intended for all those who have read and practised my
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SPIKE.TXT. If you have not read that file, you can pick it up from any ANON
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distribution site. I reccommend that you read it before attempting anything
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discussed in this file. Plus, if I must say so myself, it's damn good, and
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a refreshing change from HOW TO KILL A CAR, VOLUME 20002. (Not that I like
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cars mind you... But more on that in later files :)
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Assuming you have read and tried the methods described in the first file,
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you are probably wondering about noise. True enough, if tree-spiking becomes
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popular in an area, security measures will be employed to see that it stops.
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Even the DUMBEST cop will be able to recognize the CLANK CLANK CLANK of your
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hammer as being a bad thing. (Whether or not he can bring himself to put down
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his donut and investigate, that's a different story. :)
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This file discusses methods of getting the spikes into the trees without
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making any noise. These methods require that you be somewhat more covert
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about your actions, and are careful not to get caught. Some yahoo is gonna
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read this file and ignore this key statement. He'll end up getting busted
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and point his finger at me. Sooooo:
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"The author does not condone or reccomend the use of any of the
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techniques outlined in this file."
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There it is, your typical disclaimer... Heh.
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Anyways, on with the file.
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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If you've been stopping the freddies with your tree spiking for long enough,
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they're gonna be getting pissed of. They're slow learners, but when they
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start to loose money, they'll be more careful. You can be sure that after
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about a week of spiking, they'll be looking for us eco-freaks. But we can't
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give them a rest, 'cause as soon as we stop spiking, they start milling.
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Here's one way to get around this problem.
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Equipment:
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----------
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Drill
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- As you're gonna be in the middle of the woods, you'll need either a
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VERY long extension cord, or a cordless drill. The old pro's at
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Earth First! reccommend the Black & Decker model 9020 or 1940. The
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9020 will only drill about 15 - 25 holes, while the 1940 drills twice
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that many holes and has a removable battery pack. Still, you can buy
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several 9020's for the price of one 1940. Other drills of course will
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work, but test them for torque and longevity before you hit the field.
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Drill Bits
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- Use only "Twist" bits. The type used for drilling through metal. The
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fissures and pits on these bits pull saw-dust back up out of the hole,
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reducing the possibility of a jam or break. The bit should be about
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4« inches to 6 inches long.
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Apron
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- A simple cloth apron makes a good holder for pins, and will allow you
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to wipe your hands clean.
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Pins
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- At a welding supply store, buy ¬ inch steel welding rod. It comes in
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36 inch lengths, two rods per pound. Cost's about $1.50 to $2.50 per
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pound. Use a hack saw to cut the rods into 3 and 4 inch lengths. Make
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a few of about 2 inches. The quantity depends on the number of trees
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you wish to pin. Keep in mind that extra's lying about are as good as
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finger-prints in an investigation.
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Saftey Goggles
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- Wear 'em! You're eyes are important when you're running from the cops.
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Use the type that doesn't restrict side-vision.
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Clean Rags
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- Used to make sure equipment is finger-print free.
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Silicon Caulk and Gun
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- You know, that clear stuff for sealing around windows. (Good for
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jamming locks too.. But more on that later)
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Smaller "ram rod"
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- Should be just slightly thicker than a coat hanger. About 6 to 8 inches
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long.
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Method:
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-------
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As with spiking, this is easiest to do during the day, but the fact that
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you have to use this method at all indicates that a night visit may be in
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order. (Heh) Pick your clothing wisely. Nothing flashy, but nothing too
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conspicuous. If you're working during the day, then wear "earthy" tones,
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at night, try to avoid jet black. Stick with the dark colours, but avoid all
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black. (The temptation will be there to dress up like a ninja. While this
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provides camoflouge at night, it is very conspicuous) Someone who sees a
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person wearing all black and a ski mask sneaking into the forest is gonna
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remember it. If someone, however, sees a nice looking young man/woman
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going into the woods for an evening stroll, it'll be out of their minds before
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they reach their front porch. They might not even remember if questioned
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about it in a day or two.
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Oh yeah, back to the method.
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1) Drill a hole in the tree on a slightly downward angle at about eye level.
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(As with spiking, the higher up the tree, the better) Make the hole about
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4 inches in diameter. If there is a knot in the way, don't force it, just
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use a smaller pin. (That's why you have the 2 inch pins) Your drill bit
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should be slightly bigger around than your pins.
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2) Fill the bottom part of the hole with caulk. This will hold the pins in
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place and prevent them from being pulled out by a magnet or other means.
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3) Put a pin into the hole. Tap it down with the ram rod. Make sure it is
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at the bottom. If the hole is over 4 inches in length, use a 4 inch pin.
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As a general rule, adjust the size of the pin for the depth of the hole.
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4) Put a dab of caulk on the end of the hole. Enough to cover it up. This
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will seal the hole from insects or infection. Place a chip of bark in the
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hole to cover it up. It has been suggested that you should break off part
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of a branch inside the hole, that way, when the tree is de-barked, it will
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appear as a knot, as opposed to a plastic-filled hole.
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Field Notes:
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------------
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That's it! SOOO much simpler than spiking, and a lot quieter. Here a few
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suggestions and hints.
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- Make sure that every piece of equipment is free of finger-
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prints, not just the pins. If you are forced to abandon
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something, you don't want your prints on it.
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- This method is useful after the trees have been scanned
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for metal. Sneak in at night, after the metal scanning
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process and pin a few trees.
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- To be even quieter, use a brace and bit type drill. This
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requires more manual labour (obviously), but provided it
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is well oiled, it is next to silent.
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- Make sure you leave no evidence. This should be done in
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team of 2 or three, with one look out while one pins.
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Once again, the pick-up drop off method is the best form
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of transportation. A towel can be placed on the ground
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around the base of the tree to catch saw-dust.
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- Make sure you either use or get rid of all the pins at
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once. Extra pins laying around your house can get you in
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serious trouble should you be investigated. For added
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security, alternate between welder's supply rods and the
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threaded, zinc-coated rods found in most lumber yards.
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You want each attack to look like it was done by a separate
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team.
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- With this method, you can use non-metallic pins. The
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ultimate way to baffle the metal detectors. To make ceramic
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pins, use stoneware clay. Make sure that you don't leave
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a trail of names and adresses when buying it. Also make sure
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that it is completely free of iron oxide, as it might trip
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the detectors. When moulding the clay into pins, wear gloves.
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The pins must be fired to "cone 10". This requires a kiln
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temperature of about 2400 degrees Fahrenheit. Finding a kiln
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capable of these temperatures won't be easy, but use your head.
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- Be careful. And if you get caught, you didn't hear it from me.
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I would appreciate any comments or triumphs involving this method. I am
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especially interested in hearing from an Earth Firsters! out there. That's
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the end of it.. I hope to continue releasing files. I have many idea's
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beyond the eco-freak (or eco-phreak.. heh) files, so keep an eye open.
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The contents of this file were taken without consent from the Field Guide
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to Monkeywrenching, second edition. It was edited (the book, not the file)
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by Dave Foreman and Bill Haywood. Incedently, the third edition was released
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last summer, and if you look hard enough in the southern states, you'll find
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it. You might be able to order a copy. Published by Ned Ludd Books.
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That's all folks.
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Working together for a blue sky...
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<end file>
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