184 lines
8.8 KiB
Plaintext
184 lines
8.8 KiB
Plaintext
1.29.94
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ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
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³MULTI PURPOSE STINK GRENADE³Ü
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ÃÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ´Û
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³By: Excessive Mayhem³Û
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ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙÛ
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ßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßßß
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This file has a somewhat less serious overtone to it that the first two
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files I have written. The first two are files on Ecoterrorism, where as this
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file is how to make a stink grenade. IN FACT, this weapon CAN be used in your
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efforts for a green planet. By tossing this item into the office or trailer
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of the most hated land raper in you neighbourhood, you convey your feelings
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about him/her in a somewhat graphic manner.
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Of course, this technique will probably never be used for such a serious
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purpose, and will more likely be used to fumigate schools and the like, but
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the application is there if you choose to use it.
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Oh yeah:
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"The author does not condone or reccomend the use of any of the
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techniques described in this file. Use at your own risk."
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Anyways, on with the file:
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-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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There are many different files on making stink bombs. They all look like
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they should work relatively well, and they are all relatively inexpensive.
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This one _DOES_ work and offers you the ability to toss it or leave it some
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place. This is not really a stink BOMB, but a stink GRENADE, meaning you can
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toss, lobb it, jetison it, catapult it or otherwise throw it at your target
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and you can rest assured that it will release it's stinky payload.
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Equipment:
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----------
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C-Clamp
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- Available at any hardware store. Any item that can be used to put
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constant pressure on something overnight can be used instead.
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Small piece of doweling. (3/4 inch to 1 inch in length)
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- Doweling is that round wood stuff. Commonly used in kite frames.
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You can pick it up at any hobby shop or hardware store. As you
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will only need 3/4 of an inch, you might consider the 5 finger
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discount, but I recommend against it, the stuff runs about 80 cents
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for 3 feet.
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Bottle (or two) of super glue
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- Available at ANY hardware store and most convience stores. Go for
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the thick stuff, as opposed to the watery type.
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Aerosol can of "Fart" spray or skunk spray
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- This is a little harder to come by. In hunting stores you can find
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a "skunk" spray which hunters use to mask their scent. This would
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be ideal. The novelty "Fart" sprays work as well. Whatever it is
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it needs to smell bad and it needs to be in your standard aerosol
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can. (So an actual skunk wouldn't work, unless it were compressed
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into an aerosol can. :)
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Thick rubber band
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- Should be long enough to fit around the can from base to nozzle
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ONLY WHEN COMPLETELY STRECHED. This is the triggering device, so
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it's length is extreamly important. (If you don't understand now,
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you will later in the file)
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Piece of cardboard or construction paper
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- Optional
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Drill with small bit (1/8 inch and smaller)
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- Don't need to buy one, your friend will have one you can borrow
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One Nail
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- Should be small enough to fit EASILY into the hole drilled by the
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drill.
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Method:
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-------
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The construction of this device is exceptionally simple, but not so easy to
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explain. A file called DIAGRAMS.TXT should have been included in this
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archive. It contains the diagrams refered through throughout the text.
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Hopefully they are self explanitory.
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1) Drill a hole about 1/6 of an inch away from one end of the dowel.
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2) Remove the spray nozzle from the can. (The small thing where the spray
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comes out.)
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3) Glue the rubber band to the top of the nozzle and glue the dowel to the
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top of the rubber band. The end with the hole should be the one stuck
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to the rubber band. Use LOTS of glue. Use the C-Clamp to apply pressure
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overnight. (To make sure the glue dries solidly)
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{SEE DIAGRAM 1.1}
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4) Glue the rubber band along BOTH SIDES OF THE CAN. The idea here is that
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there will be downward pressure on the nozzle when it is re-applied. If
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neccessary the rubber band can be cut and you can use the C-Clamp to hold
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it in place while the glue dries. Either way, leave it over-night.
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5) Modify the soft plastic cap (used to cover the entire end of the can) as
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follows: Cut a large opening out of one side of the cap. This is where
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the nozzle will point out. With that in mind, cut two smaller notches at
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the base of the cap so the rubber band can run down the sides of the can.
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Cut a circular hole at the very top of the cap. This hole should be just
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large enough for the dowel to poke through unresricted.
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6) Okay. Here's the hard part. Put the nozzle back onto the neck of the can.
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This should be okay, the pressure of the rubber band shouldn't be enough
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to release the can's contents. Put your modified cap on. Play with it
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until you can get the nail through the hole in the dowel at just the right
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height that it prevents you from pushing down the dowel. (This is where
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a diagram will come in handy). The nail acts as a "saftey pin", like on
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a grenade.
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{SEE DIAGRAMS 1.2 and 1.3}
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7) Play with it to make sure it works. When you are certain everything that
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needs adjusting is adjusted, glue the cap on tightly.
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8) Attach a piece of cardboard as shown in the diagram so that it prevents
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the can's contents from being sprayed directly into the ground.
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{SEE DIAGRAM 1.4}
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9) To use the grenade, pull out the nail and press down on the piece of dowel
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which sticks up through the cap. The rubber band will stop the nozzle
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from popping back up, and the can's contents will be completely emptied in
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a matter of moments. While it is emptying you can walk away from the
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scene.
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Field Notes:
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------------
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Not much to say about this item, except that there are almost endless
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possibilities. You could modify the cardboard setup so that sprayed directly
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into the ground. Now replace the stink with a can of spray-paint, and TA DA,
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irreversable carpet damage. You can also attach the can to a base, so that
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it stands straight up. With this method and a little ingenuity, you can make
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a type of flame-thrower.
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Play around with it.
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- If you're gonna be using this for more than a practical joke,
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make sure you wipe ALL fingerprints off the equipment before use.
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Use rubber surgeons gloves when assembling it and attach a piece
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of burlap to the outside of the can when it's complete. The
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burlap makes for crappy fingerprints, so you can handle it freely.
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That about wraps it up for this file. I plan to write some more eco-phreak
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files in the future and some pretty damaging stuff as well. If you need to
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contact me, ask one of the ANON staff. I'd appreciate feedback on this item.
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Remeber, if you get caught, you didn't hear it from me. :)
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Working together for a blue sky...
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THE FOLLOWING IS A COMPILATION OF TEXTS THAT GO
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WITH THE STINKBOMB TEXT FILE
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Diagrams:
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--------- Dowel Dowel Arrows
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±±± - Dowel / / indicate
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±±± ÄÄÄÛÄÄÄ - Nail Û direction
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ÜÜÜÜÜÜÜ |~~~~~~~| <- |~~~~~~~| of spray.
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Û|~~~|Û - Rubber Band | |~~~| |- Modified Cap <- | |- Cap
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Û| þ |Û |_|___|_| <- |__|~|__|
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Û|___|Û | | | ± |
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Û | Û | | | ± |
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\---- Nozzle | |- Can | ± |- Can
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| | | ± |
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Diagram 1.1 | | Diagram 1.2 | ± | Diagram 1.3
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|_______| |___±___|
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\___Rubber Band
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Piece of Card
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/ Note: I'm well aware that these
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.-----------.-------. drawings SUCK. If there is
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/ / Bottom \ anyone out there who would like
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| <- | of | to do some better ones for me,
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| <- | Can | Diagram 1.4 they'll recieve VIP access on my
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\ \ / BBS.
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'-----------'-------'
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