417 lines
20 KiB
Plaintext
417 lines
20 KiB
Plaintext
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THIS IS A SHAREWARE TRIAL PROJECT
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IT IS NOT "FREEWARE" WE NEED YOUR SUPPORT TO CONTINUE
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100 WEST BY 53 NORTH
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by
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Jim Prentice
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Copyright 1990, Jim Prentice, Brandon, Manitoba, CANADA
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North of 53. A magic phrase. Spoken, mumbled or thought
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inwardly by thousands of souls venturing northward. An
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imaginary line, shown only on maps and labelled 53 degrees.
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It's presence indicated to highway travellers by road side
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signs.
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A division of territory as distinct in the mind as any
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international border.
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If you have not been "North of 53", you have not been
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north!
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Travellers and writers, poets and pilots, have
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contributed to the lore of the north. The rigors of life in
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the bush are told in tales of man eating mosquitoes, of
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murderous hordes of black flies, of the lumps of flesh
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carried away by the giant bull dog flies.
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The stories of record breaking trout, walleye, and pike
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are legion. There are tales of sights and sounds heard deep
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in the spruce forests:
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The crashing of moose, tearing through brush and
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breaking down trees. The drumming of grouse. The incessant
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hum of insects. The cackling quackery of ducks feeding on
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quiet ponds and placid bays.
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Once heard, the intermittent song of the loon is never
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forgotten. It's voice the signature of authenticity of a
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northern scene.
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If the wildlife in the northern bush land seems
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different than found elsewhere, so is the life of man. It
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takes a special breed of person to live in the north. The
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farther one travels, the more this becomes apparent. The
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Southerner, whether on his first or fiftieth trip north of
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53, never really becomes aware of the implications of
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northern living.
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Generally, the owners of "cottages" on southern lakes
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have more amenities at hand for a weekend of "roughing it"
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than most northern dwellers have on a year round basis.
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The modern cabin on a lake shore near a large
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metropolitan center is equipped with electric service, a
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telephone, paved roads, natural gas pipelines, and cable
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television.
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Nearby are services that provide food, fuel, repairs,
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and entertainment. Drivein theaters and fast food chains
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abound. Waterfront businesses have docks built for those
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arriving by boat to do their shopping, laundry, or to
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transfer suitcases from the family car. The local merchants
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deliver goods to the cabin by road or by water.
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Entrepreneurs make a businesss of servicing and maintaining
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cabins during the owners absence in the off seasons.
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Most of these "cottages", whether on the lake shore, or
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located five well paved streets from the water, rival the
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homes of many city dwellers. These lake side communities,
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although seasonal, differ little from the urban living from
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which they offer escape.
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Look at an average northern community. Study and
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compare the standards with those of urban areas and their
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nearby lake side retreats.
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There are no local bus services. If the car doesn't
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start you either walk, or call a taxi. Yes, most areas do
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have a taxi service of one kind or another. Even if it's a
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ride in the back of some one's pick up truck.
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Mail delivery is unknown. A pleasant stroll in
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midsummer is contrasted by an ordeal in life threatening
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conditions during winter.
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House to house delivery of milk and bread is
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nonexistent. Perhaps newspapers are delivered, but it
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requires a family effort, especially in winter.
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Bus, rail and scheduled air services to nearby
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settlements is severely restricted, if available at all.
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Many small taxi companies exist because of the large fares
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collected in the transport of natives to and from the
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reserves.
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Although diminishing in recent years, the bushpilot and
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charter aircraft still play a large role in northern
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transportation.
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The pilots of these small aircraft learn to live with
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conditions that would keep their southern colleagues on the
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ground.
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In summer they fly float equipped aircraft. They are
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busy hauling trappers, fishermen, freight, fish, furs, and
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supplies to and from the reserves, fish camps, traplines,
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logging areas, and small settlements.
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In the fall, when the ice is too thin for skis, yet too
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thick for floats, they change the aircraft to wheel
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equipment. Changing to skis when ice conditions permit.
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Winter flying presents problems that most pilots never
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hear of. Temperatures exceeding 40 below zero, blowing snow,
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ice crystals, and whiteouts. All these challenge the pilot
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in their daily work. The preheating of engines to coax them
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to life. The problem of congealed oil in propeller pitch
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mechanisms, and fueling with super cooled gasoline are
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regular chores.
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The ski-equipped aircraft must be tied down with ropes
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that are frozen into holes in the four foot ice. The skis
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must be lifted or run onto boards or poles to prevent them
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freezing into the ice.
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Pilots and passengers must wear heavy arctic clothing
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as few aircraft have cabin heat systems capable of coping
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with the cold. Aircraft batteries are removed at the end of
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each day of flying to ensure maximum efficiency the next
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day. Wings and engines are covered to stop the ingress of
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snow and the build up of frost on the flight surfaces.
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Gasoline fueled blow-pots are often carried to provide
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engine preheat to ensure starting. The oil in these engines
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gets so thick at minus 40 to 50 degrees that the engine
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cannot be turned. This writer has done chin-ups on the
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propeller of a coldsoaked Cessna which flew the next day
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after preheating.
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The northern airports lack any degree of services in
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comparison to those farther south. Fuel is usually available
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if you can locate the operator. Some of the larger
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communities may have a pay telephone at the airstrip, but
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the normal procedure is to buzz the town on arrival. This
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lets the people know you are landing and usually someone
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will head out to the strip to meet you.
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Unless you are a regular customer, all transactions for
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fuel and oil are on a cash basis. Cheques are nearly useless
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in a village without a bank. Credit to a stranger is
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foolhardy.
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During the grip of winter, the snowmobile is the major
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mode of transport in all but the largest of settlements. In
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many places that do have roads in winter, vehicles are left
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running 24 hours a day. If allowed to get cold, it may take
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many hours of effort to restart balky engines.
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Most northern residents enjoy the winter months. The
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change in seasons brings on a change in activities. The
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boats and motors are stored away with the lawnmowers and
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garden chairs. The snowmobiles are tuned up, ice-fishing
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shacks are towed onto lakes and rivers. The blades of gas-
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powered ice augers are sharpened. The fishermen flock to
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their favorite spots and drill holes through ice up to four
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feet thick.
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Whether in the comfort of a shack with a woodburning
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stove glowing in the center, or huddled on the ice in the
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lee of a snowmobile, they normally take a good catch.
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Walleye, trout, pike, tullibee and whitefish as well as
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perch, burbot, catfish and bass are plentiful. The most
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popular bait is minnows, some use sucker-belly, or net bags
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of trout eggs. Others use metal spoons or large bucktail
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flies, lead-headed jigging lures, or just snelled hooks. As
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in summer, the best bait is whatever the fish are taking at
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the time.
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Moose hunting is another favorite sport, especially in
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the colder weather when the moose are on the move for food
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and warmth. The hunter faces problems similar to the pilot
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with his equipment. The extreme temperatures require that
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his snowmachine be kept in top condition if it is to start
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after a day of hunting. Once started it must be dependable.
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A life and death situation could develop if the machine
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breaks down while 40 or 50 miles from home.
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Even his rifle requires special care. A bolt covered
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with heavy grease will freeze solid in the cold. The firing
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pin may not move when struck by the hammer. Many a moose and
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bear lived to face another day because a hunter's weapon
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failed to operate.
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Other outdoor activities include cross country skiing,
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snowmobiling, and racing dog teams. These sports are
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included in the many winter festivals held each year.
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As spring arrives, the winter equipment is stored away
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and once again the boats and motors are brought out. Wagers
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are made on the time and date of the break up of river ice.
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The snow blowers, shovels, and skidoo suits are replaced
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with lawn mowers, rakes, and bathing suits.
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The pussy willows blossom. The ducks and geese return
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from their winter feeding grounds in the southern U.S.A..
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The frogs begin to croak and the first battalions of
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mosquitoes are hatched.
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From the winter lows of 40 below zero, the mercury
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climbs upward. The summer highs reach the 90's, sometimes
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100 degrees. A fantastic differential of 140 degrees between
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seasons.
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Through the seasons, day to day life continues. The
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sport and commercial fishing, the trapping and hunting. The
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road building, home construction, and landscaping. The
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pilots fly passengers and freight. They fly patrols on
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hundreds of miles of hydro-electric transmission lines and
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forest fire patrols. At regular intervals they carry
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conservationists doing animal census. They transport tanks
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of baby fish to restock the lakes. The seriously ill or
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injured are taken to medical centers by MEDEVAC flights.
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Other flights carry fishermen, and tourists.
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Prospectors vie with geologists, botanists, biologists,
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entomologists, and surveyors. All use the aircraft to see,
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touch, smell, measure and record the wonders of the north.
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The opening day of each hunting or fishing season is
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heralded by the arrival of recreational vehicles of all
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types. Trailers and vans, motorhomes and 4X4's arrive daily.
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They carry or tow boats and motors, bicycles, motorcycles,
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and ATVs. The "first-timers" fill the private and provincial
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government campgrounds. The more experienced and
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adventuresome travel logging roads and bush trails to
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favorite lakes, rivers, and streams.
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In town, the streets and parking lots are crammed with
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vehicles and equipment.
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Gasoline, food, booze, and fishing equipment are sold
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in great quantities.
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The hotels are full. Reservations were made months in
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advance, some were made prior to leaving the year before.
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For a few short weeks, during the prime spring fishing
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period, every available camping spot is occupied.
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As the summer wears on, the sportsmen recede and
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tourists take their place. The cycle repeats annually.
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Each year a number of travellers arrive in privately
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owned aircraft. Piper Cub to Beechcraft. Taildragger to
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bizjet. Most have been here before, to some it is a new
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experience.
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To a southern pilot, a trip north can be unnerving.
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Accustomed to flying over a network of roads and railroad
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tracks, always in contact with an airport or navigation aid,
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they are seldom prepared for the realities of northern
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flight.
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Airports are hundreds of miles apart. In most cases
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there are no roads or railways for navigation. At lower
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altitudes, voice contact with an airport is an exception
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rather than the rule.
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Flight plans of course are mandatory. Map reading is
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difficult. There are so many lakes, many of them the same
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basic shape that a sharp eye must be kept on the map.
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For seaplanes, the ever present danger of logs, rocks,
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and reefs is amplified by the distance from civilization.
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Flights must be carefully planned around suitable refueling
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facilities.
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The pilot of a private seaplane is in his own element
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here. The pleasure of landing on a remote lake, its quiet
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green waters undisturbed by others, is indescribable.
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After securing the aircraft and setting up camp, the
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true beauty of the north can be enjoyed.
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Waters teeming with fish, are surrounded by wildlife of
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all types. The smells of wood smoke and coffee mingling with
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the sound of fresh fish sizzling in the frypan.
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The songs of bird life. The cry of the loon. The
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evening wail of coyotes and wolves. The whistle of wings as
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ducks, geese, ravens, hawks, and eagles travel down the
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shoreline. On the lakes are the wakes of passing beaver and
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muskrat. The occasional warning smack of a beaver's tail on
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the water as he senses danger.
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The varied hues of trees, evergreen and deciduous. The
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colors of windflowers. The taste of fresh wild strawberries,
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raspberries, and blueberries.
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The excitement of an evening sky dancing with a
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dazzling display as the Aurora Borealis appears. The
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"Northern Lights" are surrounded by stars, incredibly
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brilliant against the black, smog free heavens.
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Thoughts in the night.... Lying in your tent you hear
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rustling noises. A twig snaps. Mouse or rabbit? Moose or
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bear? Is the food secure? You visualize the food bundle,
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securely tied to a tree branch, high above the ground.
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The wind is rising, you can hear small waves breaking
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on the shore. Is the airplane alright? Should you go and
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check it?
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What will the fishing be like in the morning? Will you
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get another chance to land the big Walleye that you lost to
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day. Or a bigger one?
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A lone mosquito buzzes your ear. Somehow he has
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penetrated the netting of your tent.
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The cry of a loon is the last thing you hear. You sleep
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peacefully until the songs of early morning bird life
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announce the start of a new day.
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But for the constant buzz-sting-slap of insect warfare,
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you might be in heaven.
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Far to the south, your friends and neighbors are also
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facing a new day.
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Howling dogs. Screaming kids. Squealing tires. The wail
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of police and fire sirens. The reek of diesel fumes from
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passing trucks and busses. Telephones jangle and typewriters
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clatter. The work piles up.
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Dissatisfied customers grumble. The boss looms
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threateningly.
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They jostle in line for a bus, then for coffee, then
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for lunch. They fight traffic to get home.
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The neighbor's dog has left a deposit on the lawn. The
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children's toys are cluttering the driveway.
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They sit down to a TV dinner and discuss your crazy
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fishing trip.
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The day to day life in the north does have it's
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problems; if you happen to own a car for which there is no
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local dealer, you may have to order parts from hundreds of
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miles away and have them shipped in by bus or plane.
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Meanwhile the car sits. The same applies to appliances,
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tools, and so on.
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There may not be a TV repairman in town. You must send
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the set out for repairs, or, buy a new one. By mail order of
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course. Providing your community has a TV station to begin
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with.
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Most northern communities have only one radio station.
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The CBC. Some are augmented by local programming.
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Other services may be difficult to obtain. For example,
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a veterinarian may visit weekly, or monthly, or not at all.
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Medical facilities are usually present to some extent, but
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any serious illness or injury may require a MEDEVAC flight
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to a distant city.
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Fresh meat and produce become more of a problem in the
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more remote areas. If road or rail service exists the
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problem is not too acute. However, in many communities, the
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only access is by air. In this event the shipment of
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perishable commodities is dependant on space available on
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the aircraft. The subsequent prices reflect the added cost
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of the product.
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On the subject of costs, heating a home with propane
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may be five to seven times the cost of natural gas as in
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southern homes. Food, gasoline, clothing, and appliances,
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are considerably more expensive in the north. Of course the
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more remote the location the higher the price.
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On a trip into the high arctic a few years ago the
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prices ran like this:
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Hotel bed $100.00 per night, per man
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Breakfast (2 eggs, 2 toast,
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2 bacon, and 2 coffee)
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$12.00
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Avgas $7.00 per gallon
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But then, when you are 250 miles north of the arctic
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circle, you expect to pay higher prices.
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Why then, do people live in the north?
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For the natives it is a matter of ancestry. For many
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whites it is also ancestry. To some, they were born there.
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Their parents having moved north for employment reasons.
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Some are transients, following construction jobs and
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other seasonal employment. Others, working for large
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corporations or government, are transferred north as a job
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requirement.
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Life in the north is definitely different. A person
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accustomed to life in a large city may not endure the
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rigors involved. They give it up and move south.
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Many people, such as myself, move north for an extended
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period. In our case it was 10 years. We adapted to the way
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of life. We enjoyed the hunting and fishing.
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Owning our own aircraft, we were able to travel more
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independently than our neighbors. We enjoyed all the great
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outdoors had to offer. We learned to adjust to the lack of
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night life, and other amenities.
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When 10 years had passed, and our children were adults,
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we took stock of our situation.
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We were stuck in a rut. The same rut that most of the
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townspeople were in. Our lives centered around hunting,
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fishing, the Post Office, and the TV set.
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We decided it was a case of moving now, or possibly
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remaining in the north for the rest of our lives.
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We left in February of 1984!
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We miss the delicious fresh fish from cold clear lakes.
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We miss the taste of thick moose steaks, moosemeat sausages,
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fresh smoked lake trout, and pancakes with fresh, wild
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blueberries. We miss the freedom afforded by a short flight
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to a secluded lake shore.
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The fishing and hunting within 10 miles of our northern
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home was superb. The friendship and camaraderie of our
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neighbors was great.
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We are happy to have had the opportunity to experience
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northern life. But, as we approached the midpoint of our
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lives, we wanted to return to civilization. To pick up where
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we had left off. To enjoy the supermarkets, and shopping
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malls, the fancy restaurants, and gourmet foods. We wanted
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to be closer to the center of things, a few hours drive from
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a major city rather than an all day trip.
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We returned to old friends, and new neighbors. New
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stores, and home mail delivery. Lower prices. Broader
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choices. More to do and see. More TV channels. Several radio
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stations, and newspapers.
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We can drive east or west besides north and south. We
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can dance to live music and eat in restaurants of many
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nationalities.
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In short, we are back to civilization
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THE END
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