347 lines
18 KiB
Plaintext
347 lines
18 KiB
Plaintext
From: wi.4837@n7kbt.rain.com
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Newsgroups: alt.sex.bondage
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Subject: On Clothespins
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Message-ID: <C0t95z.2JE@n7kbt.rain.com>
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Date: 13 Jan 93 21:03:35 GMT
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Organization: Anonymous Contact Service @ N7KBT
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Lines: 340
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Or, 'More Than You Might Have Wanted To Know About Clothespins', collected
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from various [alas, I did not record names] authors on this newsgroup,
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several publications, and few of my own invention. It is interesting to
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note how many of the new ideas one supposes to be one's own recur again
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and again, perhaps this compilation will collect the most common, allowing
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others to create new ideas rather than repeating older ones. Examples
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provided are for females, but the concepts are not truly gender-specific.
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A recent simple device for directly measuring clamping force of
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clothespins and other springclamps is described at the end of this
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posting. No doubt others will add their own favorites, a future
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publication of '101 Things to Do With Clothespins' would be an amusing
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project. As always, I have done what I might to suggest safety, proceed
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with caring.
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'grim'
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_A Table Of Contents_
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Wood versus plastic:
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Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
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'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginners and others]:
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More places you might like to try:
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'Zippers' and other tailoring:
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Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
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A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
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Definitions using an open clothespin diagram.
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hole spring
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________________________________
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\__n__0________________________/ leg
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__u__0________________________
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/______________________________\ leg
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clamping area
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#Wood versus plastic:
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Wooden clothespins are a bit kinder and have less tendency to abrade,
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thus I would suggest starting with them. Plastic clothespins tend to
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have much smaller ribbed gripping surfaces, and a 'feel' much stronger
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than the equivalent wooden ones. Extremely small plastic clothespins
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are very nasty indeed, and many may be used in the same area for
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greater intensity.
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Wooden clothespins are available in several qualities, with the older,
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thicker ones being a bit better IMHO, and the thin ones more likely to
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splinter or have sharp edges. As one may purchase 50 of these for
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perhaps $4 American, these rank among least expensive of toys, and
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among the most versatile. Almost anything one may do with fingertip
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squeezing may be done with clothespins, and several things that cannot
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be accomplished with one's fingers may easily be done with these tiny
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household beauties. Of course, this does leave your hands free for
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other activities....
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#Clamping Tightness ["too hard!", "too soft!", "just right!"]:
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Unmodified, most wooden clothespins of quality grip with between 4 and 6
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pounds of pressure over an area of 3/16 X 1/2 inches. This is too much for
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some, and not enough for others. The grip is best increased by wrapping
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the clamping end with elastic bands, and decreased in several ways. The
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simplest is by weakening the springs by clamping something that requires
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the clothespin to be open to its limit for several days. This will reduce
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the clamping pressure by several pounds, dependent on the initial strength
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of the spring, the width of the opening, and the length of time one allows
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for stretching. Carefully pulling the jaws wider than they would normally
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travel will stretch the spring quickly, but this is harder to control.
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Wrapping elastic bands around the legs of the clothespin will resist
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the tension of the spring and weaken the clamping force without
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permanently weakening the spring.
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If you are willing to spend a bit more time, drill straight through both
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legs of the clothespin legs about one third from the end and thread a bolt
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through the holes, tightening a wing nut on the bolt will allow for
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wonderfully precise changes in clamping pressure, since the bolt-nut
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combination adjustably limits the travel of the legs. It is often best to
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drill a larger hole or even a slot in one leg for ease of adjustment. This
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requires perhaps 2 minutes per clothespin and is well worth the time, as
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the pressure may be slowly increased as hir ability to enjoy the sensation
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improves. Weights may be hung off of the clothespin as well by hooks or
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cords attached to such holes and hardware.
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#'Standard' Techniques [suggestions for beginning and advancing]:
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One classical place to begin with clothespins is the nipple, but there are
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many possible variations to this alone. The first grip recommended most
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often is with the clothespin pointing straight onto the nipple, not from
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the side, gripping the base of the nipple, not the tip, and perhaps a bit
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of areola as well. This does not have the same sort of 'bite' as grasping
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the nipple alone may, and often does wonderful things for sensitivity
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without causing severe pain. It is best to start with a rather weak
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clamping pressure and work upwards, and if you are just beginning, try not
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to leave the pins on for too long [start with what sie can endure, and
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eventually work up to perhaps twenty minutes [I prefer not to leave them
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on longer than this, YMMV]. The longer the clamping time, the more fierce
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the sensation caused by removing the pressure. The increased sensitivity
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afterwards may last from minutes to many hours, depending on the person,
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the clamping force and time; and several things might be done in this
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period to use that sensitivity to advantage [beating with the proverbial
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'wet noodle' or even a featherduster is quite effective]. Ice applied
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immediately after removing the clothespin may reduce the length and
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severity of the sensation if that is desired.
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You might try putting the clothespin on sideways, with the nipple centered
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in the the hole in the clamping area. If you do this far enough back on
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the nipple base or areola, the tip of a large nipple will remain exposed
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for other things, such as ice, nibbling, or smaller clips and clamps.
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You might try clamping the nipple only, or work gradually out from the
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areola as hir ability to enjoy more increases. Tapping or lightly brushing
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the tips of attached clothespins is effective, and a light vibrator may
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also be used if taped to the legs of the clothespin.
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One simple device works nicely for both nipples at once on all but the
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smallest female breasts. Take two clothespins and glue the outsides of the
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legs together with a slight overlap so:
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__________________________________
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\_________________________0__n___/
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__________________________0__u___
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/_________________________________\
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glue
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________________________________
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\__n__0________________________/
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__u__0________________________
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/______________________________\
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then use the clamping ends to grasp both nipples from the sides at once.
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The pull will vary depending on breast size, but some will be present,
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thus causing her to jiggle her breasts gently can be fun, and of course,
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this is often just the thing to add to tickling. Size differences may
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require an additional short piece of wood to link the pair together,
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length best found by experiment.
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Several people have mentioned pulling on clothespins or clips with
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strings, chains or cords. The nipple itself may also be encircled by a
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thin cord or thread, I have used unwaxed dental floss to good effect.
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Avoid slipknots for the obvious reason that they might tighten too far in
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use.
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Pulling off a clothespin is more painful than squeezing the legs to remove
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it gently, and is the basis for several devices below. Again, the longer
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one leaves them attached, the stronger the result. It is also possible
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to flick off clothespins with a flogger or some other striking device, and
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combining the two is an interesting way to add some bright 'explosions' to
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the sensations of a 'standard' flogging without switching instruments or
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striking harder. When doing this near the front of the body, some form of
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eye protection is needed, a heavy blindfold will serve nicely.
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#Other places you might wish to try:
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Many areas of the body might do well with a bit of clamping either for
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sensation or visual appeal. Other parts of the breast, and any portion of
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the torso and limbs where one may gather a bit of skin come immediately to
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mind. In view of the tiny expense, one might use many dozens at one time.
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Specific classic variations include but are not limited to:
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a row, circle [or other sigil of your choice] on the belly or back
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one or more on the labia or other areas of 'wabbliebits' [tm-STella]
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the inner thigh or arm
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a belt of clothespins round the waist
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small clothespins on the webbing of fingers and toes
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the earlobe [the dangling legs of the clothspin brush the neck nicely]
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behind the knees and inside the elbows
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a circle round the thighs as a reminder to keep them spread
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#'Zippers' and other tailoring:
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Drill a hole through one leg of at least one dozen clothespins, thread
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them on a thong or cord, knotting them at small intervals, and you have
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created a zipper. One derivation for the name will become obvious the
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first time one tugs swiftly on one end of the cord and hears the sound
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made by the pins pulling off sensitive skin [there may be other sounds as
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well]. The spacing may vary, longer ones may be made, and double rows of
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20 or so clothespins are common. The inside of the upper arm or thigh are
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rather traditional for these, but most areas of the body are available,
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one of my own favorites being the side of the body normally covered by the
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arms, after binding the arms over the head. Ticklish and sensitive.
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A 'tri-zipper' is my own name for three of these single zippers with one
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end of each fastened to a central ring [a keyring will do, but try to find
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something a bit larger]. The ring is centered high on the belly, with the
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farthest pins attaching to the nipples and 'wabbliebits' [tm-STella],
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perhaps with a bit of spiral towards the center of each region, and the
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nearest ones fastening to the skin near the center. The look of horrified
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anticipation as you grasp the ring and begin to pull slowly outwards, each
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pin popping off in turn as the three zipper lines move towards the most
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sensitive areas is not to be missed, while pulling faster often causes
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volumes of coloratura shrieking.
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Another design I have not seen elsewhere I have dubbed the Reverse Garter,
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'reverse' in the sense of pulling down rather than up. Two bands of
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non-stretch material [webbing, fabric or leather will do] with buckles or
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other adjustable fasteners are put high up around each thigh, perhaps five
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inches from the pubis, although this dimension will vary. Sewn or riveted
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onto the band is a close [almost touching] row of four clothespins on the
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inside of the leg, with the clamping ends pointing upwards. These are
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first attached to the outer labia, then the band is adjusted to a position
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to gently stretch the lips and tightened so as not to be pulled further up
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the thigh. Intriguing in itself, and provides both more pull and an
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interesting display when she spreads her legs. Delectable. [N.B. There are
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major sensation differences between the outer lips and more inner tissues,
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grasping these areas with the same force is likely to cause considerably
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more pain than anticipated.]
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#Modifying pins for more intense sensations:
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The simplest method is increasing the clamping force with one or more
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elastic bands round the clamping end, but there are several others.
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Purchase some short 1/8th inch diameter brads or finish nails, and
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a drill of the same diameter. Drill three holes through the clamping
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end of two clothespins. Sand, grind, or file the ends of the brads to
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a smooth *ROUND* tip then push them through so they protrude into the
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clamping area while the clothespin is held open 1/8th inch. Use a drop
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of strong glue to hold the brads in place, and saw off the excess
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length from the outside of the pins after the glue dries. This is as
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it might appear when completed [end view of clamping section].
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________
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||| |||
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||| ||| Clothespin is not closed, there is
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||----|| -1/8 inch gap held open by brad ends
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---||---
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--------
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Exceedingly nasty, as the clamping force now concentrates primarily on
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three small areas rather than the entire clamping area. Use this
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carefully, preferably with a fully adjustable clothespin as above, and
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make quite sure by testing on yourself first that the ends of the brads
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are NOT SHARP at all to avoid damage. Useful for those seeking more than a
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'regular' clothespin may provide.
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Several less extreme variations on the idea above are possible, all based
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on disassembling the clothespin, filing several grooves in the wooden
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clamping area, then reassembling the clothespin. Grooves and blunt 'teeth'
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aid in preventing slippage, and feel a bit more harsh than flat wood.
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Removing perhaps one-half of the side of the clamping area with a saw or
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rasp provides two benefits, the same clamping pressure will be applied
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over a smaller area, and double the number of clothespin tips may fitted
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to the same bit of anatomy. Remember to round the edges slightly with
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sandpaper to avoid splinters or other inadvertent injury. View from above
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of the clamping end with the side removed.
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---
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/ |
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/ |
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-------
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spring
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|------|
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| to |
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| leg |
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--------
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#A design for testing the clamping force of clothespins:
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Tradition demands testing on the web of one's hand, this is well and good
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for impromptu buying and to get a subjective feel for the actual sensation
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of a new design, but lacks precision and repeatability, qualities dear to
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the heart of any engineer. Some thinking and a bit of experimentation
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resulted in the following frame to directly and accurately measure
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clamping force in clothespins. With minor modifications, it serves to
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measure certain other sorts of spring-clamp pressure as well. I recognize
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the source of error from measuring the force at the hole rather than the
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clamping area, but it is a difference both trivial and consistent, and
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thus may be ignored for comparative testing.
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wingnut
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------------------- piece of wood--|--------
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\__n__0________________________/ | clamp to tabletop
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0 ---------------------piece of wood-|--------
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__u__0________________________ bolt
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/__|____________________________\
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| -cord to spring scale
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Select two boards longer than 8 inches, wider than 1 inch, and perhaps
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1/4 inch thick, and place them together, lying flat on top of one another.
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Drill a hole through both 5 inches or so from one end. Put a bolt through
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this hole, and thread a wingnut on the bolt. Clamp the other end of the
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boards firmly to a table or bench, slide one leg of the clothespin into
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the tapered space between the two boards, then tighten the wingnut. This
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frame will hold the clothespin for testing. Once the pin is held firmly in
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place, use a thin cord attached to a spring tension scale [I use an
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'anglers scale', accurate from 1 to 28 pounds, any 'pulling' scale with a
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hook will do], and pull downwards against the clamping area until the
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clothespin opens. This measurement will vary from the pull necessary
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to just open the jaws to a higher reading before the jaws reach their
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limit of travel. As mentioned, the 'standard' clothespins I have tested
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fall somewhere in the region of 4-6 pounds, stretching for several days
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may yield less than 3 pounds, and manual stretching of the clothespin
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spring will swiftly reduce the pressure to 1 pounds or less. If one has
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the time and interest, coding the various strength ranges of tested
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clothespins for different tastes and applications is possible, either by
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color or by filing groove patterns in the legs to select by touch. "Twenty
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of the red ones for a start, I am in an evil mood tonight."
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::ObBondageQuote::
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"If you are losing your grip, perhaps you are not using the proper tools."
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##################################################################
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a missive from
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"That grim, fierce, dominant fellow, grrr ... grr ... <grin>"
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--
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