770 lines
41 KiB
Plaintext
770 lines
41 KiB
Plaintext
Cybertek Electric: Issue #2 1/2/96
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¢ss es flestra ferdha f”r; en sk lpr es sverdha
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/ |\ /| /|\ |\ |\ /| |-\ \ /
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/ | \ / | / | \ | \ | \ / | | \ \ /
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/ | \ / | / | \ | \ | \ / | | > / \ /
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/ | \/ | / | \ | / | \/ | | / / / /
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\ | | | | < | | | \ / / \
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\ | | | | \ | | | > \ / \
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\ | | | | \ | | | / \ \
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\ | | | | \ | | |-/ \ \
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I know a fifteenth, which Thiodhroerir the dwarf sang before Delling's door.
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He sang might to the Aesir, power to the elves, and understanding to Odin.
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Cybertek Electric: Issue Two
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January 2nd., 1996
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edited by Thomas Icom/IIRG
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<ticom@l0pht.com> <thomas.icom@iirg.com>
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Complements of OCL/Magnitude's Project Blackthorn,
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and The International Information Retrieval Guild (IIRG)
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Table of Contents
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=================
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- The Presidential Election Looms: What are YOU going to do?
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- Backyard Pyrotechnics I, by Pyronomy
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- Decoding Touch Tones
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- Urban Survival Part II, by Douglas P. Bell
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- Rede For a Departed Brother
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The Presidential Election Looms:
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What are YOU going to do?
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The new year brings many thoughts to mind, but the one thing that keeps
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presenting itself in my head right now is the fact that 1996 is a Presidential
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election year in this country.
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I've been talking to a lot of people who have a dangerous attitude towards
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voting. They have no love for either the Republicrats or the Demopublicians,
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and feel that a third political party has no chance. As a result they either
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don't vote or vote for "the lesser of two evils". I guess they don't realize
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that both of these actions will never help us out of the mess we are currently
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in.
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There is a nationwide third political party which in my opinion offers more
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hope towards solving the problems in this country than either the
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Demopublicians or Republicrats: The Libertarians. They are for individual
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self-responsibility and reliance, and decreased government interference in the
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lives of its citizens.
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I don't know how many eligible voters in this country are actually registered,
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but I do know that in the 1992 Presidential election only 55% (a record high
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actually) of the nation's registered voters actually voted, and that of that
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number roughly 40% voted for Clinton. The current President of the United
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States was voted in with less than 25% of the popular vote. If everybody who
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either didn't vote in the last presidential election or voted for "the lesser
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of two evils" votes Libertarian, they stand an excellent chance. So make the
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extra effort. Do your research. Find out just where the parties stand on
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issues that matter; not the bullshit non-issues that the media popularizes,
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and this November to get off your ass and get to the polls.
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-Thomas Icom/IIRG
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May Odin guide your way!
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---/////---
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Backyard Pyrotechnics I
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by Pyronomy
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The following series of articles will give details on how pyrotechnic devices
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might be constructed. It is my intent that the descriptions given are for
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informational purposes only. WARNING: THE FOLLOWING MATERIAL DEALS WITH
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PYROTECHNIC DEVICES THAT CAN BE HAZARDOUS. SO PLEASE USE CAUTION:
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I think that it would be prudent to explain the difference between
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pyrotechnics and explosives. Explosives are broken down into several
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categories. Low order explosives are things like gunpowder, flash powder,
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black powder, etc. They tend to burn rapidly or deflagrate. There power as
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explosives usually comes from the bursting of the container that they are in.
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High order explosives are things such as dynamite, plastic explosives,
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nitroglycerin, etc. They work under a different principle called detonation.
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Detonation in the most basic terms is the rapid, self-propagating
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decomposition of an explosive accompanied by a high pressure-temperature
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shockwave that moves at 1000-9000 meters per second. This is not generally
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considered in the chemistry world as burning. Primary or initiating explosives
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are the last class. Some of these are mercury fulminate, lead azide, etc.
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These can be sensitive to either shock or burning or both. They generally are
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more powerful than low explosives and produce a shock wave that is used to
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detonate high explosives. The only class that we will be dealing with in this
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series are the low order explosives.
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Pyrotechnics are an art form that has a history thousands of years old. They
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are constructed for the purpose of providing exciting displays for groups of
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people large and small. They existed even before anyone conceived the idea of
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using black powder to hurt their enemies. Explosives on the other hand
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generally are used to do some type of work. Be it in war or in peace they
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generally have a tendency to destroy. If this is your purpose then this
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article isn't for you. Most pyrotechnic devices are explosive in some way and
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are therefore listed as explosives. Usually this is necessary for the devices
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to achieve the desired effect. I will cover devices that are intended to make
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pleasing displays be it on the ground or in the air. If you want to play with
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the big boys go join the army.
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At this time I would like to say a little something about this outrage in
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Oklahoma. McVeigh, or whoever is guilty, I hope they give you to the families
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of the ones you murdered YOU PIECE OF DUNG. While I am on the subject what is
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this bullshit the press is doing to the Militias. I've never seen such a load
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in my life. Several slimes do something horrible and the press goes and
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stereotypes a whole class of people without any investigation to see what kind
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of people they really are. Well if you are reading this you obviously don't
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believe anything that those jerks say anyway. What was the purpose of this
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bombing anyway? Are we supposed to be impressed with this chicken shit attack?
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You didn't even have the balls to be there. What are you pissed about Waco.
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Hell I didn't like it either but I wouldn't kill someone because of it. Lets
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just pull the plug on you and be done with it because you obviously don't have
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a clue.
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Anyway it's a shame that this happened because it has side effects that some
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people are not aware of. For one thing those people that find the main theme
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of this article interesting and might want to try working with fireworks will
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soon find it harder to get some of the things that they might need. The laws
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will probably get a lot tougher on anyone that might construct anything that
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someone else who is either nosy, stupid, or misinformed might think is a
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danger to society. They might even see the required reading material
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disappear. I don't know about you but it bothers me a hell of a lot.
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I don't want anyone to have the false impression that I am all knowledgeable
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on this subject. For me it is a hobby that I happen to cherish with a very
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large passion. There will be some suggestions later on some reading material
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that will help.
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WARNING: THESE DEVICES CAN BE DANGEROUS POSSIBLY FATAL SO BE CAREFUL. Safety
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is the key to successful and pleasing pyrotechnic displays. Therefore we are
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going to discuss safety now and throughout this series of articles.
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Some of the DO's and DON'Ts
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NO SMOKING: This means while handling chemicals or when constructing, firing,
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and transporting devices.
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Be gentle when handling your devices as some can be sensitive to rough
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handling. You can't be too careful when involved with a hobby like this one.
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The first thing you should do before constructing any devices is to check the
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laws wherever you are to find out if it is legal. There are several different
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classes of explosives that have been designated by the Dept. of
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Transportation. Pyrotechnic devices like the common firecracker, bottle
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rockets, those little pieces of junk that just burn on the ground with merely
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a whimper and party poppers are in Class C. The smaller sized paper tube
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launched aerial shells that go up a couple of hundred feet then burst are also
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Class C. Some states sub-divide this class into sparklers and ground devices
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that shoot sparks. Some are even so lame as to have everything banned. There
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is also Class B. This is where most of the big professional displays reside.
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These are probably familiar to everyone who has lived through one Fourth of
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July. They consist mainly of a round that is launched from a metal tube and
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burst high in the air. I'm not exactly sure what the boundary is between Class
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B and C. The largest aerial shells that I have seen on sale in fireworks
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stands was 2 1/4" in diameter and was marked Class C. Most of the aerial
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devices that we will be discussing will be higher than normal altitude Class
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C.
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OK back to safety. Do not fire any devices on public property as it is
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dangerous and probably not legal. The author assumes no liability for damage
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or injuries caused by the use of this information. Okay enough so here is the
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list of minimum safety equipment needed.
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SAFETY EQUIPMENT NEEDED WHERE TO GET IT
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Face Shield Hardware Store
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Breathing Mask " "
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Thick Latex Gloves " "
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Welding Gloves Welding Supply
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Welding Arm Shields " "
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Leather Shoes
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The equipment listed should be used anytime you are mixing your chemicals or
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when constructing devices. I know they are cumbersome but it is better to be
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safe than sorry. Especially the shoes. (Blackmatch will burn through house
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slippers. I know this from personal experience.)
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Credits
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It would be wrong for me to continue without giving credit to the individuals
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from whom I acquired the basic information that I am about to impart to you.
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The first is the fantastic series of books by Kurt Saxon entitled The Poor
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Mans James Bond. There are four books in the series covering every possible
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area of self reliance. All contain numerous how-to manuals from A to Z. You
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want to know, it's in there. Another one is Granddad's Wonderful Book of
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Chemistry. It contains everything that you would want to know about
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laboratories and chemical processes. Another series written by Mr. Saxon is
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The Survivor. This series is jam packed with how-to articles that are on every
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subject that you could possibly want. I would highly suggest all of these
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books as they are very valuable. The best ones as far as pyrotechnics are
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concerned are Granddad's, PMJB I and PMJB II. In PMJB I you will find
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Fireworks & Explosives Like Granddad Used To Make which is a group of articles
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including Scientific American 1903, Dick's Encyclopedia of Formulas &
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Processes 1872, The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book 1896, and Henley's Twentieth
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Century Formulas 1907. It also contains Pyrotechny by George Weingart (1947).
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It is considered by most to be the authority on pyrotechnics. The last one is
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American Pyrotechnist by VanderHorck. It contains articles by numerous authors
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about constructing mechanical devices used in the manufacture of pyrotechnic
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devices. In PMJB II you will find a reprint of Tenney Davis's book The
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Chemistry of Powder and Explosives published in 1943. It is modern and has
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done away with most of the older terms used for some of the chemicals used.
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However it is a very good idea to have Granddad's around as it does explain
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the older terms. I would like to express my gratitude to Kurt for the vast
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effort he has put into this series. It is well rounded and will provide a
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great many hours of pleasurable reading. THANKS KURT. would also like to
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suggest getting a chemical dictionary or maybe borrow one and check certain
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aspects of the chemicals that are used in pyrotechnics. You should especially
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check the sections on hazards, properties, and usage.
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I would like also to thank Stormbringer in D.C. (BBURPP) for turning me on to
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PMJB and for the inspiration. Asrael (OOPS Sorry bout them tax records Dad)
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Asphyxia also for the inspiration. Hey AZ be careful with that Perchlorate.
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And last but not least Thomas Icom for the opportunity to pen this series.
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Materials
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The hardest part of it all is acquiring the materials unless you have an
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unlimited budget which I think most folks don't. So I am going to give you
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some hints on how to construct some of the things that will be needed.
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Scales are a must if you want your compositions to be consistent. All of the
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compositions used are given by weight proportions. A cheap set of proportion
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scales are to be described. You will need the following:
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Wood appox. 18"x 4"x 1/2"
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Plastic/Vinyl strip 12" long and as thin as you can get it (I used a piece of
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1" vinyl window blind)
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Wire appox. 4" long and fairly stiff 10-14 ga. (I used brass brazing wire)
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Bend the wire in a U shape 3/4" in from each end. Make two holes in the wood
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slightly smaller than the wire. The holes should be placed so that the wire is
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in the middle length-wise and perpendicular to the length and 1/4" deep. The
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wire should be inserted so it is no more than 1/2" off the board. Put a slot
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in the plastic so that it will balance on the wire. Add a small container
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shaped like a scoop at one end of the strip by using a 2" piece of plastic
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drinking straw and duct tape. On the opposite side of the strip using a small
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piece of tape attach a dime about half way between the wire and the end. This
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will allow you to weigh out fairly small equal amounts of the chemicals.
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The scales are used in the following manner. Place something under the scoop
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to catch any chemicals that might not make it into the scoop. Place your
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chemical in the scoop until it is just heavy enough to tip the scoop down all
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the way. This is one proportion that weighs somewhere around half a dime. It
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doesn't really matter how much as all the formulas are given as parts by
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weight proportion. Any way you go about it is okay as long as you make sure
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that the weights are consistent.
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Chemicals
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CAUTION: ALL OF THE CHEMICALS BEING USED ARE EITHER POISONOUS OR DANGEROUS IN
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SOME WAY. PLEASE USE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN HANDLING THEM:
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The formulas that are used will only be tested possibly modified versions of
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ones found in the various sources that have already been mentioned. No
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formulas will be given that have not been personally tested to ensure some
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measure of safety and consistency. There are several categories of chemicals
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that are used. Oxidizers and reducers are the most important as far as the
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actual burning of compositions. Binders tend to hold the compositions together
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physically and also have the tendency to moderate the burn rates. Some also
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have the tendency toward being combustible.
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Oxidizers do just what their name implies by providing oxygen to sustain the
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burning. We will get into more detail on the actual terms at a later time when
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we start to get into the section on constructing stars and such as that. Some
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are listed here:
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Potassium Nitrate is the oxidizer that is used in Black Powder. It is used in
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numerous compositions that contain a carbon based reducer. It should be
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obtained from the chemical supply house.
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Potassium Perchlorate is a lot more powerful oxidizer than the nitrate as it
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contains more oxygen. Like the other chemical compounds made from chloric or
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perchloric acids it can be rather sensitive in certain circumstances. Such as
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when mixed with finely divided metals such as aluminum or copper. It also
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gives up chlorine which helps to deepen the color of your fire. It can be
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obtained from the supply house. Note that it also is more sensitive to shock
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when mixed with sulfur and may be set off w hen struck real hard with a
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hammer. It is a strong irritant.
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If you have an excess of bravery one of the most powerful oxidizers is
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Potassium Chlorate. If you decide to use it get all the PMJB books and read
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them from cover to cover many times to make damn sure you know exactly what
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you are doing. It has a tendency to spontaneously explode when mixed dry with
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certain things such as sulfur and red phosphorus and should be wetted
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thoroughly including an antiacid before handling. Thanks for that note Kurt.
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Another rather powerful but hazardous oxidizer is readily available as of this
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writing is Potassium Permanganate. It is generally a purple colored granular
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substance that grinds up into a reddish purple powder. Be aware that it is
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very caustic and will burn skin on contact. It is very sensitive when mixed
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with reducing agents and when mixed with powdered aluminum it is as powerful
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and maybe even a little stronger than the flash powder described further on in
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this article.
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Barium Nitrate (used for green fire) is a good oxidizer and also helps color
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the flame green. It also comes from the supply house. Most Barium compounds
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are poisonous so caution is important. Make sure that you wear your mask and
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gloves when using this in a well ventilated area.
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Strontium Nitrate (used for red fire) colors the flame red and also provides
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oxygen. If you have access to a 100-200 mesh screen it may be obtained from
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common road flares. But be aware that most contain binders such as kerosene
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which could possibly cause problems. It is best to buy it from the supply
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house. Most Strontium compounds also tend to be hazardous in some way or
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other. They are usually poisonous and should be treated with caution. They are
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shock sensitive when mixed with reducing agents.
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Ammonium Perchlorate is also a powerful oxidizer that is available and is
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mainly used in rocket engines. I have not used it yet but have acquired some
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for testing purposes and will let you know what I find out.
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Reducers on the other hand are in the simplest terms what gets burned. I know
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that some will find that too simple a description but its easy to understand.
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Some are listed below.
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Charcoal can be found at the hardware store but contains a lot of trash in it
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so it is recommended that you spend the bucks and buy soft charcoal sticks at
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the art store. These can be ground up real easily and are my first choice.
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Powdered Aluminum can be obtained through a chemical supply house or if you're
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into chemistry made at home, but I bought it. NOTE: Filed aluminum doesn't
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work well unless it is very fine. Do not use sandpaper to make it small as it
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will contain many particles from the paper and could taint the quality. Be
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aware that most finely powdered metals can be explosive when mixed with
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oxygen. Some also can be toxic in this form.
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Zinc Dust is another metal that can be used in the arts. It may be obtained
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from the supply house in a couple of forms. In bits and pieces, in a powdered
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form, and in a powdered form called mossy. This means that it was powdered by
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pouring molten zinc into water. The form I have acquired is the regular
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powder.
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Sulfur has the main job of evenly spreading fire to all parts of the
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composition in which it is incorporated. It also acts as a reducer by being
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combustible. It is best obtained from the supply house.
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Binders can have multiple purposes when included in some compositions. They
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hold things together and sometimes act as reducers. These will be described
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individually.
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Shellac is a good binder when wetted with ethyl alcohol. It also is
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combustible so tends to act as a reducer.
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Stearine is a binder and a reducer at the same time. It is sold at the hobby
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store for use in candles. It is sometimes used in making blue fire.
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Another binder is powdered water soluble things such as dextrin but I have as
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yet been unable to find a source. IF you find one please pass it along. I am
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in the process of trying a couple of ideas along this line and will let you
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know what I find.
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You will also need a couple of wetting agents to suspend your binding agents
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so they will be evenly distributed within the compositions. Isopropyl alcohol
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(rubbing alcohol) is used in certain cases that will be mentioned later. Ethyl
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alcohol to be used when shellac is being used in a composition. Denatured
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Alcohol can also be used if it is the kind that has been denatured by methanol
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only. It should not contain any other denaturants. Water is used when dealing
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with some of the Nitrate and Perchlorate composition and will be noted at that
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time. Never mix any Chlorate compositions dry as they tend to go BOOM.
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Cannon Fuse can be found at gun shops and gun shows. It may also be found at
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your better hobby shops that carry model rocketry supplies. Make sure to test
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the fuses burn rate.
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Other chemicals are also needed for special purposes such as Ammonium
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Chloride which is used as a source of chlorine in the burning to help in
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deepening the color. It is also used in making a pretty good white smoke. Be
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aware that it has the tendency to draw moisture from the air.
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Mercurous Chloride (Calomel) is also a good chlorine source but be advised
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that it produces poisonous fumes especially when burning and should be used
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only where there is extremely good ventilation. It is used primarily in the
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making of blue and green fire. It does not seem to take up moisture from the
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air like Ammonium Chloride and is preferred over it. Generally when chlorates
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or perchlorates are used for an oxidizer there is no need to add any extra
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chlorine source. This compound in any form is very poisonous.
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Black Powder is available at most gun shops that cater to muzzle loading
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enthusiasts. It comes mainly segregated by grain size. 2F is the size that I
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have found to be the most useful. It can be carefully ground in small amounts
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with a porcelain mortar and pestle if the need arises.
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I have touched only the tip of the iceberg here so please refer to PMJB for a
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complete list of what will be needed.
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Black Match
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Black match is a type of fuse used in certain ground and aerial devices. It is
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also very cheap and easy to make. You will need cotton twine and some finely
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ground Black Powder(BP). You will also need some kind of frame to stretch the
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fuse over to allow it to dry. Take 3 strands of the string and twist together
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then tie to one side of the frame. Twist the strands then tie tightly to the
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other side of the frame. Take a shallow container and put some BP in it. Add
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water 1 drop at a time mixing constantly with a wooden stick. Continue adding
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water until the BP is a thick paste. While wearing rubber gloves completely
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saturate the string with this paste. Wipe off any excess and allow to dry
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completely. This fuse burns at about 1" per second. It can be made to burn
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very fast by inserting it into a paper tube about 1/4" in diameter. This is
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called Quick Match and burns faster than you could possibly get away from so
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be careful when using it. The Black Match is also a lot cheaper than Cannon
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Fuse and is sufficient for use when testing compositions.
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Flash Powder
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Flash powder is a mixture of Potassium Perchlorate and the finest powdered
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||
Aluminum that can be acquired. 400 mesh works real well. You would be wise to
|
||
wear a particle mask, face shield and rubber gloves for measuring your
|
||
chemicals and also welding gloves when mixing them, just in case. Also it
|
||
would be wise to do so when making devices. Measure 2 parts Perchlorate and 1
|
||
part Aluminum. Combine them on a piece of aluminum foil and gently mix
|
||
together thoroughly with a plastic measuring spoon. Store in a plastic bottle.
|
||
** DO NOT STORE IN PLASTIC BAGS ** This composition is not real sensitive to
|
||
static like Black Powder is but has been set off by static under test
|
||
conditions so use caution when choosing your containers. This composition if
|
||
placed in a test cup made from aluminum foil that is 1" in diameter and 3/4"
|
||
deep to a depth of 1/4" and fired with enough cannon fuse to allow time for
|
||
departure flashes, makes an audible poof and makes lots of white smoke. If
|
||
loaded to a depth of about 5/8" you get one helluva boom, a big flash, and
|
||
enough smoke to be seen from a long way off. The first time that I did this it
|
||
scared the bejeezes out of me. I was not aware that any of the low order
|
||
explosives would do this in that small an amount and under those conditions.
|
||
Obviously I had failed to take into account the speed in which this stuff
|
||
burns. When tightly contained it can build up pressure fast. I urge extreme
|
||
caution when using this composition.
|
||
|
||
First Device
|
||
|
||
Now lets start the construction of a small firecracker that is approximately
|
||
M-80 grade maybe even a little better. Be advised that this device can remove
|
||
a hand. It is best to place it on the ground standing straight up so that the
|
||
end plugs won't bean someone on the head or something like that.
|
||
|
||
Take a thick walled paper tube (fax paper roll or home made) about 5/8" in
|
||
diameter and 2" long. The walls of the tube should be a least 1/8" thick. Make
|
||
a wadding with toilet paper (TP) by inserting one wadded up sheet in the tube
|
||
and packing tightly against a hard surface with a cylinder that will just fit
|
||
the tube. Eject it from the tube then make another. Insert one of these into
|
||
the tube leaving 1/4" space between it and the end of the tube. Fill this
|
||
space with a quick drying two part epoxy cement and let it cure completely.
|
||
Take a sharp pointed round object and make a hole in the middle of the side of
|
||
the tube that will fit the fuse very tightly. Insert at the minimum 6 seconds
|
||
worth of fuse into the hole until it turns toward either end. If you made the
|
||
hole correctly the fuse should be rather hard to remove. If not use some
|
||
Elmer's glue around the base of the fuse to hold it in firmly. Once again let
|
||
it dry completely. Now stand the tube on end and add flash powder until 1/3 of
|
||
the containers interior is covered. (Another alternative is to fill it
|
||
completely and pack lightly using the end plug. I am still experimenting to
|
||
find the right amount so be careful when trying this.) Insert a piece of
|
||
wadded up TP in the tube and lightly pack just enough to hold the powder
|
||
together leaving room for the other wadding that you made. Now insert the
|
||
wadding and epoxy as before once again allowing to dry completely. You now
|
||
have a device that I hope you enjoy. I put one of these under a 55 gallon
|
||
plastic trash can that was inverted on concrete and it went 10' into the air.
|
||
This device throws a very hard wadding so watch out.
|
||
|
||
Sources
|
||
|
||
Poor Mans James Bond, Granddad's, & The Survivor available from:
|
||
|
||
Atlan Formularies
|
||
P.O.Box 95
|
||
Alpena, AR 72611
|
||
(501) 437-2999
|
||
|
||
/////
|
||
|
||
Decoding Touch Tones
|
||
by Thomas Icom/IIRG
|
||
|
||
Doing this is relatively simple for everyone except all those individuals on
|
||
Usenet who keep asking about it. This ought to set everyone straight. Decoding
|
||
DTMF (Dual Tone Multi Frequency: what everybody outside of Ma Bell calls Touch
|
||
Tones, as "Touch Tone" is a trademark of Western Electric, one of Ma Bell's
|
||
children.) is simply a matter of having access to a DTMF decoder. These can be
|
||
purchased in various levels of sophistication, built, or "borrowed".
|
||
|
||
Starting with the simple first, I'll talk about "borrowing" a DTMF decoder. If
|
||
you have a pager, you can borrow one of the pager company's. Record the Touch
|
||
Tones you wish to decode, call your pager, and play the tape into the phone.
|
||
When you get paged, the numbers on your pager will be the DTMF sequence. You
|
||
can do the same with certain VMBs. When you call a VMB, enter in a bogus DTMF
|
||
sequence and see if it'll tell you "NNNN is not a valid mailbox.". If it
|
||
responds with the sequence you'd entered, you can use that to decode unknown
|
||
DTMF sequences.
|
||
|
||
Those of you with a Soundblaster/AbLib card in their PC can try one of the
|
||
programs that turns your sound card into a DTMF decoder. There are a few such
|
||
programs floating around on BBSes and FTP sites. I experimented with a few
|
||
pieces of software and wasn't impressed; as all of the one's I tested were
|
||
prone to falsing and lacking somewhat in sensitivity. A PC also lacks
|
||
portability for real-time decoding in the field. Since they are available for
|
||
free however, you might want to try what you can find and see if it works for
|
||
what you need it for. One point which you should be aware of is that some of
|
||
the programs available require a "real" Soundblaster. If you have a clone they
|
||
won't work.
|
||
|
||
For those of you who can solder, DTMF decoder ICs are sold for less than $10.
|
||
They can be interfaced to a PC and work well. Full DTMF decoder kits are also
|
||
available for less than the finished product. There have been hundreds of DTMF
|
||
decoder schematics published and released into electronic domain (some are on
|
||
the 'Stone) over the years. If you're going the do-it-yourself route, avoid
|
||
plans that are more than a few years old. New ICs are constantly being
|
||
developed which cost less, and are more reliable.
|
||
|
||
Schematics which you should avoid at any cost are ones which implement the 567
|
||
Tone Decoder IC. While it was a nice chip in it's time; by today's standards
|
||
it takes too long to get a good lock and is too prone to falsing. A DTMF
|
||
decoder implementation using this chip is also 10 times the size of more
|
||
modern designs, as a total of eight 567 chips are used to do the job that one
|
||
chip can do today.
|
||
|
||
One that is readily available appears on page 169 of Paul Bergsman's excellent
|
||
and highly recommended book Controlling the World With Your PC. I acquired my
|
||
copy at my local Barnes & Noble, or you can get it from HighText, P.O. Box
|
||
1489, Solana Beach, CA 92075. Paul's book is the bible for real-world
|
||
interfacing for the PC.
|
||
|
||
Another set of recently published DTMF decoder plans can be found in the
|
||
September 1995 Issue of Nuts & Volts magazine. These plans use a California
|
||
Micro Devices CM8880 IC and a BASIC Stamp. A kit based on this project is
|
||
available for $22 (not including the BASIC Stamp and LCD Serial Backpack used
|
||
for the display) from:
|
||
|
||
Scott Edwards Electronics
|
||
964 Cactus Lane
|
||
Sierra Vista, AZ 85635
|
||
520-459-4802
|
||
FAX 520-459-0623
|
||
72037,2612@compuserve.com
|
||
|
||
Finally, one can go and buy a completed DTMF decoder. The assembled units
|
||
start at less than $60, and used equipment can be had for even less at
|
||
Hamfests. Starting at the bargain basement we have:
|
||
|
||
Motron Electronics
|
||
310 Garfield St., Suite 4
|
||
P.O. Box 2748
|
||
Eugene, OR 97402
|
||
800-338-9058, 503-687-2118
|
||
motron.info@emerald.com
|
||
|
||
Their TDD-8X DTMF decoder is $59. It features an 8 digit display, 104
|
||
character memory, and serial port for connection to a PC. For DNR work in
|
||
those backwoods areas that have yet to receive DTMF service, Motron has the
|
||
TM-16A which will also decode rotary dialing for $179. With the RS-232 port
|
||
option the price of that unit goes up to $249. For those of you who have
|
||
remote control applications in mind, for $99 Motron sells their AK-16 DTMF
|
||
Controller Board. It features 16 relay driver outputs, up to 12 digit security
|
||
code capability, ASCII serial output of incoming DTMF tones, and DTMF user-
|
||
programmability.
|
||
|
||
For those looking for a nice looking "Rolls Royce" type unit in order to
|
||
impress their next TSCM client, you have two choices:
|
||
|
||
Optoelectronics
|
||
5821 NE 14th Avenue
|
||
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33334
|
||
800,327-5912, 305-771-2050
|
||
|
||
Universal Radio
|
||
6830 Americana Pkwy.
|
||
Reynoldsburg, OH 43068
|
||
800,431-3939, 614-866-4267
|
||
|
||
Universal sells (for $399.95 + $6 s/h) their M-400 decoder. This unit decodes
|
||
DTMF; as well as POCSAG, GOLAY (pager modes), CTCSS (PL), DCS (DPL) (tone
|
||
codes which are used to access radio repeaters and prevent interference), and
|
||
whole bunch of other digital communications modes used on the shortwave and
|
||
ham bands.
|
||
|
||
Optoelectronics also sells a similar unit, their DC400. This unit is only
|
||
$259, and only decodes DTMF, CTCSS, and DCS. It has a 127 character memory and
|
||
interface to a PC when mated with a CI-V to RS-232 converter. If you don't
|
||
need all the extras the Universal unit has and want something that'll
|
||
interface with a PC, go with the Opto' unit.
|
||
|
||
/////
|
||
|
||
Urban Survival, Part II
|
||
by Douglas P. Bell
|
||
|
||
Now that we have housing, guns, hygiene, and other good stuff out of the way,
|
||
what next? Well how about food production/procuring! OK so we talked about a
|
||
garden that didn't look like a garden, and wasn't in "normal" garden plants,
|
||
but just what plants are these? What would be a good book on the subject?
|
||
|
||
One of the best books for this is "The Edible Ornamental Garden" by John E.
|
||
Bryan and Coralie Castle (101 Productions, 1974, 192 pages, 8 1/2" x 8 1/4").
|
||
The nice thing about this book is it covers the usual garden plants as well as
|
||
the less usual ones.
|
||
|
||
The chapters in the book include general culture of plants, cooking with
|
||
flowers, leaves and herbs, plants, their culture, history and recipes, and
|
||
mail order nurseries.
|
||
|
||
This book is a must have for the urban home owner who has a small plot of land
|
||
and wants a garden that most people wouldn't bother because they wouldn't even
|
||
know it was there. The book will also provide you with food ideas that you may
|
||
have been missing out on right under your own nose, right in your own yard or
|
||
flower garden.
|
||
|
||
Well, so much for your outdoor garden, what about an indoor garden? That's
|
||
right, set up a small "flower box" garden in a window sill or even a terrarium
|
||
garden. For the terrarium, you might try to find "Gardening With Terrariums",
|
||
although this booklet has almost nothing on food growing indoors as it is
|
||
actually a book about ornamental plants.
|
||
|
||
if a window box of terrarium garden isn't big enough for you, there are other
|
||
ways of doing this, such as setting up a greenhouse. Books on greenhouses run
|
||
from how to build your own "window box" greenhouse to commercial production
|
||
set-ups. Go down to your library or used book store and look over the books
|
||
they have. There should be something that will be of interest if you are
|
||
serious about plant production and propagation.
|
||
|
||
Well, if gardening isn't your cup of tea, and you can't put in a greenhouse or
|
||
"indoor garden", but still want plant food in your diet, what is left?
|
||
Sprouting!
|
||
|
||
Sprouting is very easy to learn and requires almost no room or equipment to
|
||
do, and so is perfect for the urban survivor. Sprouting not only increases the
|
||
amount of food over just eating the grains or seeds you might have stored
|
||
(such as mung, pinto, or wheat), but provides much more nutrition as well. A
|
||
booklet on the subject you might like to find is "Seeds and Sprouts For Life"
|
||
by B. Jensen.
|
||
|
||
Now that you have all that garden produce, what are you going to do with it
|
||
all? Yet another booklet for the continually short of space urban survivor is
|
||
"Rodale's Gardening Harvest Book" which covers freezing, canning, jams,
|
||
jellies and drying. well so much for plants, what else is there? What about
|
||
meat? Well how about traps!
|
||
|
||
In one "survival" magazine there are ads for leg hold traps, "you may not want
|
||
the fur, but you will want to eat" or something like that is how the ad runs.
|
||
Well OK, leg hold traps are a good way to get food and furs, but I don't
|
||
recommend them for the urban survivor.
|
||
|
||
The reason is simple, if my best rat catcher or favorite hunting hound comes
|
||
back with a messed-up leg or worse yet, doesn't come home at all, I'll know
|
||
there is someone else out there and start looking for them and their traps!
|
||
|
||
Another reason I don't like leg hold traps for the urban survivor, especially
|
||
now with the current anti-gun/anti-trapping scum about, is if you don't check
|
||
your traps every day (any decent trapper checks his traps AT LEAST once a
|
||
day!), someone else might find your traps with an animal caught in it and turn
|
||
you in to the local power structure which will be more than happy to harass an
|
||
honest survivalist rather than fight crimes such as murder, rape, etc.! After
|
||
all they might get hurt doing that!
|
||
|
||
Now I'm not against trapping mind you, it's just that you have to be a little
|
||
tricky about it. If you live in an area with a lot of raccoons (and who
|
||
doesn't?), you might try the "egg-trap", so called because the commercial
|
||
version is egg shaped. This is a very safe and very good trap. It doesn't grab
|
||
the leg like the leg hold traps and it is safe around dogs, cats and children.
|
||
|
||
The way this works is, you take off the back of the egg trap, put the bait in,
|
||
and close it up. The trap is then put in an area where raccoons are likely to
|
||
see it. The raccoon can see and smell the food, but can't get at it. So the
|
||
raccoon reaches in, grabs the bait and pulls. Now the trap is so designed that
|
||
the leg is held as long as the bait is pulled. Let go of the bait and the leg
|
||
is released. In almost all cases the raccoon will hold on to the bait and you
|
||
have him trapped!
|
||
|
||
Another good way to trap animals without hurting them (and getting the
|
||
neighbors pissed at you) is to use a box trap. A box trap is just what it
|
||
sounds like, a trap in the form of a box. Normally the animal walks into the
|
||
trap to get some sort of bait and trips a level closing the trap door;
|
||
trapping the animal with no harm. These traps are available commercially and
|
||
can be easily built out of wire mesh and scrap lumber to fit just about any
|
||
size or area you want to put one.
|
||
|
||
These traps can be built to trap birds, squirrels, and most any animal to
|
||
about a small to medium sized dog or good sized coon. After that, the size and
|
||
strength needed limit the practical usefulness of the trap as far as most
|
||
urban survivalists are concerned, as it would be hard to explain away a German
|
||
Shepherd sized trap in the back yard; while a "raccoon" or "groundhog" trap
|
||
will not raise too many questions. I know one person who built one of these
|
||
traps for squirrels and normally catches about ten to twelve a week! About the
|
||
only problem they have encountered is the trap needs rebuilding/repairing
|
||
every week or so, as the squirrels really tear the hell out of trap!
|
||
|
||
The next set of traps are the so-called "kill traps", as they kill their prey
|
||
by breaking the animal's neck or back when the trap is tripped. Needless to
|
||
say, you don't want to use this trap where children or pets can get at it, as
|
||
most people would get a little upset by this! As these traps are normally in
|
||
the mink/martin size, they are not good "meat" traps, although for protecting
|
||
your food supply from rats and mice they would work fairly well.
|
||
|
||
For more information about traps and trapping, you should get "Survival
|
||
Poaching" by Ragnar Benson (Paladin Press), "Animal Traps and Trapping" by
|
||
Bateman (Stackpole Books), and go to your local magazine rack and and get a
|
||
subscription to "Fur/Fish/Game - A Harding Magazine" (Fur-Fish-Game, 2878 E.
|
||
Main St., Columbis, OH 43209), $12/year, $21/two years), as well as buying all
|
||
the Harding Press books.
|
||
|
||
|
||
/////
|
||
|
||
Rede For a Departed Brother;
|
||
Paul D. "Bleach" Keniry, 1979-1995
|
||
|
||
One who is born upon this dim Middle Earth
|
||
Has only a few years to live.
|
||
|
||
To know the love of family,
|
||
The warm embrace of a lover,
|
||
And the comradeship of good friends.
|
||
|
||
To some the years may be long and rich,
|
||
To some the years may be all too short.
|
||
|
||
Yet through it all each does his or her best,
|
||
As did Paul do his for us.
|
||
|
||
So that when finally each does stand before the Gods
|
||
It is with pride in self and backed with the loving prayers
|
||
Of those known in life.
|
||
|
||
In time, the others of us are all fated to follow,
|
||
There to be reunited with those who have gone before.
|
||
|
||
To meet again in joy and laughter
|
||
In the shining land of the Gods.
|
||
|
||
Yet know full well that the ancient sagas say
|
||
That those who are truly worthy shall be born again.
|
||
|
||
Returning in time to family, to friends,
|
||
And his own folk.
|
||
|
||
And we here know full well
|
||
That our friend is the worthiest of the worthy.
|
||
|
||
We will meet again, both in the golden lands beyond,
|
||
And, in time, here once again.
|
||
|
||
May his spirit help and guide those who remain,
|
||
May his soul find peace and joy
|
||
And the best of company.
|
||
In the emerald gardens and golden halls
|
||
Of high Valhalla.
|
||
|
||
As the tree is green forever,
|
||
May Paul's soul live to eternity.
|
||
|
||
---/////---
|
||
|
||
Unless otherwise noted Cybertek Electric is Copyright (C)1995 by
|
||
OCL/Magnitude, P.O. Box 64, Brewster, NY 10509. All Rights Reserved.
|
||
Noncommercial reproduction is encouraged provided this electronic publication
|
||
is redistributed in its entirety with credits intact. Cybertek Electric is
|
||
published for educational purposes only; under The First Amendment of The
|
||
United States Constitution. No illegal use is implied or suggested. If you
|
||
have a problem with this, too fucking bad. Please send any feedback and/or
|
||
submissions to either of the email addresses in the signature below.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|\ /| /\ / |\ | Thomas Icom/IIRG
|
||
| >< | < > / | \ |\ <ticom@l0pht.com>
|
||
|/ \| \/ < | | > <thomas.icom@iirg.com>
|
||
| | /\ \ \ | |/ International Information Retrieval Guild
|
||
| | / \ \ \| | "May Odin guide your way!"
|
||
Madhr er manna gaman, ok moldar auki, ok skipa skreytir.
|
||
|
||
<End of Text> |