133 lines
6.2 KiB
Plaintext
133 lines
6.2 KiB
Plaintext
THE SOUTH POLE..........[312] 677-7140
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Building a Silver box
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-by-
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E.F. Hutton
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Following is a complete tutorial on how to build a silver box from scratch.
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When making this project, please note that neither I or 'The AT&T Phone Center'
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takes any responsibilty for any harm that comes to you , or your equipment.
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Also note that the owning of a 'Silver Box' is not in any way illegal, but if
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used 'incorrectly' can constitute a threat to the phone company, and they will
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come down hard on you if you don't watch yourself.
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First off, you must know what a silver box is: it is basicly a touch tone
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dialing device, but it has 4 extra 'keys' (tones) that are used by test/repair
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men, to access certain 'hidden' features of your local phone company (loops,
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call backs, etc.). These four keys are given the names 'A', 'B', 'C', 'D', and
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they are usually located (when placed on a semi-normal keypad) to the right (a
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whole extra column).
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I am going to make this as simple as possible, but if you have any
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questions, please address them to "E.F. HUTTON" on the AT&T phone center at
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(312)-674-2578.
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PARTS LIST (I will list the radio-shack
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number in brackets)
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----------
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1- Tone encoder chip (TCM5089N) [rs# 276-1301]
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1- TV colorburst crystal (3.579545 mhz) [rs# 272-1310]
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1- Sixteen pin IC sockett [rs# 276-1998]
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1- IC experimenter board [rs# 276-159]
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8- SPST (single pole, single throw) switches [rs# 275-624]
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1- 'Project box'
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NOTE-->: THE TONE ENOCDER CHIP IS A 'CMOS' CHIP, WHICH MEANS IT DIES EASILY
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WHEN IT GETS ZAPPED BY STATIC ELECTRICITY. PLEASE GROUND YOURSELF BEFORE
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HANDLING CHIP, DO ALL SOLDERING TO THE SOCKETT, AND DON'T REMOVE/INSERT CHIP
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WHILE POWER IS ON!
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1 [] First connect the socket onto the IC board, make sure there are no
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solder bridges (shorts) and try to use a low wattage soldering iron (you will be
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soldering on the 'metal side' (the side with the metal etching)). Now insert
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two 3-9 inch wire (22 guage, stranded) into the holes corisponding to pins 1 and
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6 (make pin 1 to the left, facing AWAY from you (up)), these two leads are the
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voltage in leads, carefully solder them to the underside (as always).
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2 [] Now insert three 5 inch leads to holes 3,4,5,9,11,12,13,14 and solder
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carefully. (when I say holes, I mean holes corisponding to pin #'s). These are
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the 'collumn' switches (3,4,5,9) and the row switches (11,12,13,14).
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3 [] Next, insert a 5 inch lead into hole 16 ( this is the output lead) and
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solder.
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4 [] Now for the crystal, insert one side (either) into hole 7, and the
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other into hole 8, solder carefully, and clip off excess wire from the bottom.
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5 [] Next you get to insert the chip into the socket, remember to ground
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your- self, and line the notch side up to the 'top' (where pin1 is) , make sure
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the chip seats cleanly, and don't force it!
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--> OK! YOU ARE ABOUT HALFWAY DONE... TAKE A BREAK, GET A COLD DRINK OF
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YOUR CHOICE, AND INSPECT YOUR HANDIWORK, MAKING SURE THERE ARE NO SHORTS (SOLDER
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BRIDGES) OR 'COLD SOLDER' JOINTS (IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO GO OVER EVERY CONNETION
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WITH THE IRON AGAIN).
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6 [] Now back to work, you have reached the point of 'test and pray'....
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Connect the leads from pins 1 and 6 (step 1) to a nine volt battery (or any
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other power source that is between 3-13 volts DC) making sure that the lead from
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hole 6 goes to neg(-), and the lead from hole 1 goes to postive (+). Connect
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the lead from hole 16 to one side of a small speaker, (any junkie one laying
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around will do) and the other side to negative (-) of your power source. Now
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take leads from holes 4 and 11 and touch them to the negative (-) side of your
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power source... If you hear a tone (and it sounds almost like a touch tone) you
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have done everything correctly-- go on to the next step, if not--- go back to
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step one, and check everything thru.
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7 [] Well, congradulations!!! you are now ready to finalize your box.. all
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that is left is to mount the switches in your 'project box' and 'hardwire them
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in'. I suggest you arrange the switches in a format you can understand. I have
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mine mounted like this:
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s1 (row1) s2 (row2) s3 (row3) s4 (row4)
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s5 (col1) s6 (col2) s7 (col3) s8 (col4)
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Then connect a common lead to one side of ALL of the switches, and then to
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another hole corisponding to pin 6 (this is ground).
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Now connect the leads to their respective switches (opposite side of the
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ground).
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You have now completed the Silver box... just connect the power leads to a
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battery or other pwer supply (3-13 volts DC) and the output lead to a speaker
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(other side of speaker to negative (-) of DC power supply) and flip one switch
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for column, and one switch for row... and thats that!
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I will not delve into the usuage of a silver box... There are many other
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tutorials on that, also- there is a way of directly connecting the output into
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the phone line, but I have yet to figure it out..
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FOLLOWING IS THE SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM THAT I DESIGNED FOR MY SILVER BOX, AS YOU
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CAN SEE IT IS NO BIG DEAL, AND HAS ROOM FOR MANY REFINEMENTS.
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(in 80 column format)
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(-) (+)
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_! 3-13 VDC !______ OUT
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! ! ______
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! ! ---- ----- \ /
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! ! ! \_/ ! (+)! !(-)
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! +-! 1 16 !- +------------------------------- --+
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! ! ! !
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! NC -! 2 15 !- NC !
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! \ ! ! / !
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! + \---------+-! 3 14 !- +------------------------/ + !
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! ! \ ! ! / ! !
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! ! + \-----+-! 4 13 !- +-------------------/ + ! !
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! ! ! \ ! ! / ! ! !
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! ! ! + \-+-! 5 12 !- +-------------/ + ! ! !
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! ! ! ! ! ! / ! ! ! !
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+-------+---+---+----+-! 6 11 !- +-------/ + ! ! ! !
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! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
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! !--------------+-! 7 10 !- NC ! ! ! ! !
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!CRYSTAL (3.579545 MHZ)! ! / ! ! ! ! !
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! !--------------+-! 8 9 !-+-/ + ! ! ! ! !
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! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
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! -------------- ! ! ! ! ! !
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! ! ! ! ! ! !
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-------------------------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-------+
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