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CRASH Your guide to travel thru the underground Mar 1992
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SAN FRANCISCO ISSUE
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GREETINGS
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from the Crash Crew
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We hope you stop in at San Francisco in your world travels because all
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3 of us live here at the moment. It's a great city to bring your
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leather or other cool clothes, because it never gets too warm to wear
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them. The weather here is a bit weird. The warm months are not July
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and August. They're usually September and October. The first thing you
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might notice will be the fog which comes in almost every night. It's
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thick and spooky and if vampire movie settings are your thing, you'll
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love it. Rainfall is rare. One thing to remember about dressing for
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here is that even if it does get warm during the day, come dusk the
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temperature always drops to chilly. So make sure you bring a coat or
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sweater with you if you plan on staying out until nightfall.
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As you walk around Haight St., Polk St., and Valencia St., make sure
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you check out the notices on telephone poles and in cafes. They'll
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tell you all the latest shows, clubs, and other events coming up. And
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while you're checking out your first couple of cafes, make sure you
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pick up an *SFÊWeekly* or *Bay Guardian* magazine. They're free and
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have listings for many things going on in and around the city. Of
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course, here, as everywhere, you have to rely on word of mouth for the
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really underground (interesting) happenings because these things tend
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to be both transient and rarely publicized. Because of this, we don't
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list events, but you can find about them by checking out the numerous
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places mentioned in this issue.
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So relax, this is California, ya know! So just chill while you enjoy
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S.F. and don't forget to try the burritos and acid (music, that is).
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TAKE THE LOW ROAD
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If you've read anything about San Francisco, you've heard about
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"Haight-Ashbury," or what we call "Upper Haight." This area, mainly
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Haight St. starting at Broderick and ending at Golden Gate Park, is a
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great area to walk around and soak in the atmosphere and history. This
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was the site of "The Summer of Love" during the Sixties. But since
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this issue of Crash Update's goal is to explore the alternative San
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Francisco, we introduce you to "Lower Haight."
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Lower Haight, ignored by the mainstream, is a very cool section of
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Haight St. between Scott and Webster. Look at all these amazing places
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inhabiting just a 4 block span:
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International Cafe -- good coffee, lots of bulletin boards.
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Whole Foods -- friendly natural food store.
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Love & Haight -- try the vegetarian avocado sandwiches.
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Spaghetti Western -- trendy but fun cafe.
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Ground Zero -- coffee shop with connection to SFnet computer network.
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Naked Eye -- good selection of alternative zines, magazines,
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newspapers, and videos.
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Auricular Records -- zines, club passes, lots of alternative,
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industrial records, tapes.
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Used Rubber -- cool clothes, pocketbooks, belts made from used rubber
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tires.
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Noc Noc -- hi-tech bar with neo-Japanesque cyber design.
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Tops -- bar with tiny dancefloor in the back and house music.
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Toronado -- bar with over 200 different beers.
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Mad Dog in the Fog -- bar with high energy and high ceilings.
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--------------------------------------------
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LETTERS * LETTRES * TE GA MI * POSTE * CARTA
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Dear Crash:
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I'm going to Mardi Gras before I go to NYC (I've got a place to crash
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there), I guess your directory is free which is good coz I'm more than
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fairly broke as you can tell by my modest donation. I need to find a
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place to crash in Louisiana and Chicago, I also want to distribute my
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comic there.
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Thankew
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Janicide (Canada)
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[The Crash Directory only comes with a membership -- Ed.]
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Dear Crash:
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Thanks for the zine. Anti Clock Wise has now ceased. See #20 enclosed
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for reasons. But I'll do copies of your flyer and pass 'em round. Your
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address is the coolest I've seen in ages [Castro--get it?--eds.]!
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Talking of which, I've just been to see Stone's film *JFK* which was
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actually quite good, if a bit flawed factually. Oh well, good luck
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with Crash, and I hope all's well stateside.
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Yours, as always,
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Richard Turner (UK)
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Dear Editors:
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...I really enjoyed reading the December '91 issue. I found the
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articles to be illuminating and informative. I especially like the
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piece entitled "Miles to Go -- A Traveling 20-Something." Excellent
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layout and design too.
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Sincerely
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Mark Hand -- Editor -- "Incite Information" (USA)
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Hello Crashers:
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We received your publication and will put a short article about
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Crash-Network in our next issue. With much appreciating. Oh, Happy New
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Year!
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Greetings,
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Erik "De Nar" (Belgium)
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Hello Miles,
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Thanx for sending a copy of "The Crash Update." I liked the idea
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behind it and I'll review it in an 8-page regular article I'm writing
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in "Merlin's Music Box," Greece's biggest Fanzine.
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All the best,
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Bill "A.O.R." (Greece)
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Dear Crash Network:
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Many thanks for sending me a sample copy of The Crash Update, and for
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listing me as a contact person in your "Debris" section for the
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World-wide Networker Congress. For those of us involved in mail-art,
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crashing is nothing new. There has been an evolving tendency in the
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medium not only to write but to meet. We have even named this
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"Tourism" a new art ism. I'm enclosing diaries of my recent mail art
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tourism activities in South America and San Francisco. I've recently
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had visitors from Estonia, Germany and Indonesia. It's a small world.
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Thanks for alerting me to your network!
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all best --
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John Held Jr. (USA)
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Dear Miles, John, Jon --
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A Greek friend sent me your December copy and I'm impressed -- what a
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great idea! I'm very surprised that you in SF of all places show no
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understanding of women's legitimate worries, e.g., putting on the
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membership form a box for "will accept female only" -- you might get
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more members. And what about people like me who are traveling with no
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fixed address? Can we join too?
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Roberta (France)
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[TCN is based on trust, and it's important that you correspond first.
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If you feel strongly about any particular issue, you should use the
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"Other Comments" blank on the membership form.
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Of course modern nomads can join! Just keep sending in your new
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addresses so we can update our database. -- Ed.]
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------
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DEBRIS
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Networking and information
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* GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVEL VIDEOS: Pridetime, a Boston travel guide
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company, produces travel videos on cities such as San Francisco,
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Montreal, Ft. Lauderdale and Key West, Palm Springs, New York, New
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Orleans, Chicago, San Diego, etc. The $19.95 videos, which range in
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running time from 20 minutes to one hour, cover gay/lesbian history,
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bars, beaches, restaurants, guesthouses, and holidays and special
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events specific to each city. Coming out soon are videos on gay
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Europe, including Amsterdam, Denmark and London. (800) 338-6550.
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* TRAVELWRITER MARKETLETTER is an award-winning newsletter full of
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current marketing information, news, tips for travel
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writers/photographers. Send $60 (US funds, $70 airmail overseas.
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Sample $6). Robert Scott Milne at the Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Ave.,
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Suite 1850, New York, NY 10022, USA.
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* ENVIRONMENTAL OPPORTUNITIES Monthly bulletin lists environmental
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jobs throughout the U.S. Write for free descriptive brochure: EOT,
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P.O. Box 4957, Arcata, CA 95521, USA.
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* ALTERNATIVES TO THE PEACE CORPS booklet. Send US$5.00 to: Food
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First, 145 9th St., San Francisco, CA 94103, USA.
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* DIRECTORY OF ALTERNATIVE TRAVEL RESOURCES: Send US$7.00 including
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shipping to: One World Family Travel Network, 81868 Lost Valley Lane,
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Dexter, OR 97431, USA.
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* GLOBAL EXCHANGE/REALITY TOURS, has just put out a new book called
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"The Peace Corps and More: 114 Ways to Work, Study & Travel in the
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Third World." US$8.50 ppd., 2141 Mission St., #202, San Francisco, CA
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94110, USA.
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* THE WILD RANCH REVIEW is a newsletter for small, community-based
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|
groups and individuals who are living the credo of thinking globally
|
|
by acting locally. c/o Tim Haugen, P.O. Box 81, Gulnare, CO 81042,
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USA.
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* ENVIRONMENTAL VACATIONS -- volunteer projects to save the planet.
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Send US$15.00 to: John Muir Publications, PO Box 613, Santa Fe, NM
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87504, USA.
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* TEACH ENGLISH IN CHINA. One year positions. Stipend provided. Must
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have university degree. Call China Advocates (800) 333-6474.
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* WORLD PERSPECTIVES. Alternative news, analysis from shortwave radio
|
|
sources. US$19/11 issues. Box 3074, Madison, WI 53704, USA.
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* GREEN TORTOISE ADVENTURE TRAVEL BY BUS. There's nothing else like
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it. Sleep lying down on fitted sheets over thick foam on window high
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platforms and bunks. Bring your own tapes for the bus's stereo, help
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in the preparation of meals, meet people, explore caves, stand under
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waterfalls, visit towns, and generally take it easy. Send US$1.00 for
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their catalogue: Green Tortoise, Adventure Travel, PO Box 24459, San
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Francisco, CA 94124, USA.
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* SCRIBBLE UNLIMITED PRESENTS #9. Cross-country road trip of Miles and
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Darren with fun places to see in St. Louis, Omaha, Denver, and
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Albuquerque! Plus stories and poetry. Send three 29c stamps or two
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IRCs to: Scribble Unlimited Presents, P.O. Box 415, Rutherford, NJ
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07070, USA.
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* START A NEW HOLIDAY TRADITION -- Earth Day Postcards. Theme:
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Peace...for the Planet. Selections will be featured on postcards for
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Earth Day 1992. Scribble Unlimited Presents, P.O. Box 415, Rutherford,
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NJ 07070, USA.
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* LOVE NEW ZEALAND or want to travel there? Send $8 for 4 issues of
|
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KIWIphile FILE (Canada/US $10). Helpful tips, information from other
|
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travelers. 2715 Altura Ave., La Crescenta, CA 91214, USA.
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* OUT YOUR BACKDOOR -- low budget outdoor adventure articles, with
|
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everything from bicycles to boats. 4686 Meridian Rd., Williamston, MI
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48895, USA.
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-----------------------------------
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A ZINE LOVER'S GUIDE TO THE MISSION
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by Miles Poindexter
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After you've checked the shops in Haight St. (especially Lower
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Haight), take some time to find my favorite part of S.F.: The Mission.
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This is an economically depressed but culturally thriving section of
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the city centered around Mission Street. Many artists live in the area
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between 15th and 25th St. Every block has a taqueria with giant
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vegetarian burritos. El Buen Sabor on the corner of Valencia and 18th
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has whole wheat tortillas, brown rice and a choice of pinto or black
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beans. El Toro on Valencia and 17th has tofu and bean burritos. If you
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get those late night munchies, La Parrilla Zuiza, on Mission near
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19th, is open until 2:45am. All the others close by 11-12pm. For cheap
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Middle Eastern food, and belly dancers on Saturday nights, try the
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tiny Cafe Istanbul at 525 Valencia, near 17th St.
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After eating, relax in one of the myriad of coffee shops in the
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Mission. Muddy Waters on Valencia near 16th, Cafe Macondo on 16th and
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Guerrero, and La Boheme Cafe on 24th near Mission St. all have many
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different types of coffee, cakes, books, and magazines.
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With your caffeine fix you're ready for some shopping. There are
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stores full of used junk and cool stuff all over the Mission. Clothes
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Connection on Valencia near 16th has colorful vintage clothes that you
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can buy by the pound. If you go into any of the used book shops like
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Valencia Books (524 Valencia), or Small Press Traffic (3320 24th), or
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comic shops like S.F.ÊComic Book Co. (3335 23rd), you can find a small
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pamphlet called *A Book Lover's Guide to the Mission* which lists many
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of the places mentioned in this article.
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For natural foods there's Rainbow Groceries on Mission near 15th, a
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beautiful, inexpensive and friendly co-op. There are files and
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bulletins in the front of the store announcing everything from cheap
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plane tickets to ride-shares to the east coast.
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Last but not least, I need to mention The Epicenter. This is a
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volunteer run punk music store and zine shop. There's a pool table and
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ping-pong table for free fun. Loud music of all kinds blasts most of
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the time. They don't open till after 3:00pm, though, during the week.
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The atmosphere is fun and unassuming, the offices of Blacklist
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Mailorder are located here and best of all there is a zine library, a
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reading room with thousands of zines. New ones are sent every day from
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all over the world. Many of you reading this are plugged into the
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underground zine world and hopefully will make sure to visit and
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support The Epicenter. There's nowhere else like it in S.F. (475
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Valencia, near 16th, right upstairs from the Clothes Connection).
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At night there's always new bars popping up in the Mission. Two old
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stand-bys are the Albion and Dr. Bombay. Both are on 16th near
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Valencia (which if you hadn't guessed by now is quite a happening
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zone). If you want to catch some bands go to the Chameleon, on
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Valencia near 20th, or El Rio, on Mission St. near 29th. Both clubs
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usually have a couple bands many nights a week. I hope this inspires
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you to come visit. The section of Mission I live in is a little
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"rough" but you are always welcome to crash here.
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THRIFT SCORE
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by Lesley Poirier
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So you've finally made it to The City (as we San Franciscans lovingly
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call our town)! Feeling bleary eyed, tasting foamy mouthed and Oh My
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God, in dire need of some burly fibers (clothes). OK, Hell-O! Before I
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go on let me say that these god awful little explanations of my quaint
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expressions (the ones in parentheses like this one) are totally the
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work of the editor and totally not my fault, OK? So let me fill you in
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on some prime locations for bitchin' clothes...and what else do you
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visit a city for but to score some primo threads? And I'm not talking
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about shopping anywhere retail. Even warehouses and outlets are retail
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rip-offs. We're talking Thrift Stores here.
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And why thrift? As long as you remain a poor student/musician/starving
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artist type/average person with better things to do than work all your
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life just to own a big TV with cable, retail priced new clothes are
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off limits. (Unless you want to buy one thing and spend the rest of
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your vacation eating rice and beans paying for it. You don't want
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that!) You want lots of cool threads that if lost or damaged won't
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ruin your life. Also, if you go thrift, chances are no one else is
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going to have your article. It's art, it's beautiful, tacky, grody,
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gruesome, whatever it is, it's expression, it's you! Plus, you get so
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much more of a choice at a thrift. You can learn and explore new
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styles and statements. Not like retail where they fool you into
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thinking you have a choice, like, you can buy the brown currently-in-
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fashion-mass-production shoes or the black currently-in-fashion-mass-
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production shoes. When you thrift, you make your own style. There are
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no displays to gently "guide" (read "brainwash") you into the correct
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combinations and good taste. You're on your own! Anyway, aren't there
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enough clothes in the world? Do we really need new ones?
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So you've decided to thrift, I see, because you're still reading this
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article. I hope I haven't twisted your arm...but anyway, before I
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reveal the sacred locations that my years of experience and searching
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have imbued me with the knowledge of, a few thrifting tips: Don't
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bring many clothes with you when you travel; you can wear the ones you
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buy, and you'll need the space to bring them back. Have patience. Plan
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to go thrifting on a few different points in your vacation. If you
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visit a thrift store once when you arrive, and once before you leave
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(hopefully a few weeks or more later), chances are there will be many
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new duds on your second visit. Thrift stores get more clothes like
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daily ya know? The first thing to look at is the fabric. If it doesn't
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please you, forget it! In fact, if you don't love it over all, don't
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buy it, you'll never wear it. So, OK, here they are. Shaddap and
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thrift.
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St. Vincent DePaul's on Haight St. at Ashbury St.; Goodwill on Haight
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at Cole, Mission at 18th, Geary near Polk, and Fillmore at Geary;
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Wasteland on Haight at Clayton; Purple Heart Veterans Thrift Shop on
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Mission near 15th; Salvation Army at 1185 Sutter and 1509 Valencia;
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and for better selection but higher prices, Buffalo Exchange on Haight
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at Clayton.
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--------------------
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ESCAPE FROM THE CITY
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by John Labovitz
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So you've come to San Francisco and you've been rushing around here
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and there enjoying the sights and sounds of the Big City. But what's
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this? You begin to think that the hustle and bustle of urban living is
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perhaps just a fool's madness, lived by the collective population of
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San Francisco.
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I'm not going to argue whether you're right or wrong, but I will
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suggest a brief vacation away from the incessant culture of The City,
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back to the ancient and timeless place from which we all came --
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nature, wilderness, the primal source.
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The unique geography of the San Francisco Bay makes it home to a huge
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number of ecologies, and its long-time military occupation (primarily
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by the U.S. Army) kept many of these special places secret, unknown,
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and undeveloped until the present time, when we've finally figured out
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that nature is not something to dissect and destroy.
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I realize that many travelers to San Francisco do not have a car at
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their disposal -- which is just as well, considering the lack of
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parking in the city, and the public transit system, which serves quite
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well for almost any Bay Area travel. However, the farther out one
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wanders from the Bay, the harder it will be to find a bus or train
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that goes where you want to go. Many places I will mention are
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accessible only by car, bicycle, or long (long, long) walks, but you
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can certainly take buses to the places within San Francisco, in the
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East Bay, and parts of Marin County.
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If "you just can't get there from here" (by bus or train), ask around;
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maybe that person sitting across from you at the cafe has a car and
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has always wondered where, say, Middle Two Rock Road. (I'll give you a
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hint: it's near Petaluma.)
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Every place mentioned here is within a half a day's drive from the
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city. If you have enough time to camp, you could drive even further
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away from this supercivilized city --ÊCalifornia is chock-full of
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county, state, and national parks.
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Even if you want to stay within San Francisco, you still have some
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choice spots to check out. Golden Gate Park is, of course, popular,
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and shouldn't be missed, but just remember: until the mid-to-late
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1800s, it was just sand dune and fields. It's kind of a Disneyland of
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nature, where nothing is quite real.
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There are dozens of parks in the city, ranging in size from the left-
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over part of a three-way intersection, to parks covering many blocks.
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If you have a map (or are near a MUNI bus stop, many of which have
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maps permanently posted) look for areas shaded green. Many parks are
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simply large manicured lawns, but they're still nice to lie down on
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and read a book or sleep.
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San Francisco is famous for its hills, but mostly in the context of
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driving on them. Rarely mentioned are the numerous more-or-less
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undeveloped hills, quiet, uncrowded, and peaceful. Check out Bernal
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Hill, in Bernal Heights Park, south-east of the Mission; Buena Vista
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Park, between the Haight and the Castro; and Mount Sutro (the one with
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the huge red antennae system), west of the Castro and south-east of
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the Golden Gate Park. I like looking over the city from these
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viewpoints and imagining what it was like before the white man came.
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Up in the Marina district in the far north of the city (east of the
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Presidio, west of North Beach), check out Fort Mason (and it's
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companion youth hostel) and then walk out past the Yacht Club to the
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end of a little jut of land. There you will find the Wave Organ, a
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strange man-made sculpture that translates the movements of the waves
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into sounds.
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All along the western and northern sides of the city (as well as the
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land across the Bay in Marin County) is the Golden Gate National
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Recreation Area. There are hiking and biking trails running through
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the whole area, in terrains as varied as beaches, cliffs, and secluded
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forest glades. The plant population of wind-blown evergreens and
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grasses is mostly native.
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The recreation area was appropriated mostly from the U.S. Army, who
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had an incredible amount of military presence in the Bay Area until
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|
relatively recently, mostly centered in the Presidio military base.
|
|
When the bases and their grunts moved to other areas of the country
|
|
(and, hopefully, will soon cease to exist), the land was made
|
|
accessible to the public. Since the Army never really used the land
|
|
for anything (there were no attacks, no guns fired), the area is
|
|
virtually untouched by human hands except for a few bizarre remnants
|
|
of gun turrets and escarpments that pop up here and there. Soldiers
|
|
and their families still live in the Presidio itself (which you pass
|
|
over taking Highway 101 or Highway 1 in or out of the city), so you
|
|
should still beware of people with badges and stripes while moseying
|
|
around the area.
|
|
|
|
If you decide to explore the rest of the country north of the city,
|
|
you'll find some of the best places are accessible from Highway 1,
|
|
also known as Pacific Highway. This primary sea-side travel conduit
|
|
runs from way down in Southern California, through San Francisco
|
|
(where it changes personality drastically and becomes 19th Avenue),
|
|
and far up the Northern Californian coast. It's narrow, winding, and
|
|
in some places, high above crashing waves, so if you're driving, watch
|
|
the road carefully (especially in the fog, which is common).
|
|
|
|
Taking Highway 1 out of San Francisco actually entails merging with
|
|
its younger sibling, Highway 101, and crossing over the Golden Gate
|
|
Bridge into Marin County, stereotyped home of hot tubs and yuppies.
|
|
But if you avoid the overdeveloped and crowded suburban towns like
|
|
Mill Valley, Corte Madera, and San Rafael, and instead make your way
|
|
northwest on Highway 1, you instead will pass by Stinson and Muir
|
|
Beaches, and be within hiking distance of Mount Tamalpais. Check out
|
|
the redwoods in Muir Woods for some sense of scale in nature -- 300-
|
|
foot trees aren't found just anywhere anymore. There's a peaceful
|
|
youth hostel nestled in a secluded valley in the Marin Headlands, but
|
|
I'm sure they're heavily booked (to be safe, make reservations).
|
|
|
|
By the time you get to Bodega Bay in Sonoma County, you'll be at the
|
|
edge of the world -- at least, at the edge of the U.S. and the Pacific
|
|
Ocean. There are various roads going inland from Highway 1 all along
|
|
the coast here. My personal rule is: the smaller the road, the better,
|
|
especially if a sign says "trucks and RVs not advised." Going inland
|
|
north of Jenner will definitely give you a good day trip, since many
|
|
of the roads up that far twist and turn and loop around until you
|
|
think you're lost. Carry a map, some water, and a full tank of gas.
|
|
|
|
There really aren't too many recreation areas or parks out near the
|
|
coast, except for the obvious beaches. A lot of the undeveloped land
|
|
in Northern California is owned by the timber companies, which in my
|
|
book means that it's a wonderful place to trespass. Just watch the
|
|
barbed wire.
|
|
|
|
Oh, watch the sheep and cows, too -- there's open range, which means
|
|
that the land is so large and the cows and sheep so docile and
|
|
content, there's no reason to fence in the ranches. (Some will say
|
|
otherwise, since some land is overgrazed.)
|
|
|
|
If you go south of San Francisco, Highway 101 will lead you straight
|
|
through Hell itself -- Silicon Valley. Highway 280 is a little better,
|
|
taking you past lakes (well, reservoirs) and through wooded valleys,
|
|
but you'll still be on a freeway. I would recommend sticking to our
|
|
old friend, Highway 1, which not only stays as far west as it can
|
|
without dropping off into the ocean, but also takes you through some
|
|
interesting little towns. Like Highway 1 north of San Francisco, there
|
|
are many small roads on which you can venture inland. If you meet up
|
|
with Route 35 (also known as Skyline Boulevard), you can drive north
|
|
or south along that for a view of the area from a higher vantage
|
|
point.
|
|
|
|
There are a few places in the area where redwood trees still thrive.
|
|
One of these is in the area around Portola State Park. One way of
|
|
getting there is taking Pescadero Road inland from Highway 1 at the
|
|
little town of Pescadero. Somewhere along the road you'll see signs
|
|
for the park.
|
|
|
|
You can travel down to Santa Cruz along either Highway 1, or by taking
|
|
Route 35 to either Route 9 or Route 17. It gets a little too civilized
|
|
and crowded around Santa Cruz to really call it wilderness, but it
|
|
could be an interesting break.
|
|
|
|
I have not yet thoroughly checked out the East Bay for nature places,
|
|
but I do know that the University of California at Berkeley has a lot
|
|
of land behind their campus, some of which they apparently use for
|
|
agricultural research, but there are some relatively wild sections as
|
|
well. The Berkeley Hills may also have some land to explore.
|
|
|
|
When you're traveling in all these areas, remember that they are
|
|
special and rare and delicate. Treat the land gently and kindly, and
|
|
it will treat you the same. I don't need to tell you not to litter --
|
|
I assume that's drummed into your head -- but I will warn you that you
|
|
should do your best to make sure you aren't causing any kind of fire
|
|
hazard. California in general, and the northern counties in
|
|
particular, are pretty dry places, especially in the summer. There
|
|
have been numerous fires up there due to cigarettes being thrown out
|
|
of car windows.
|
|
|
|
Have fun in your explorations, and tell the trees hello for me.
|
|
|
|
|
|
---------------------
|
|
THE HOLY AND THE HIGH
|
|
by Severin Head
|
|
|
|
Perhaps the greatest joys of foreign travel are the unexpected
|
|
encounters with people you wouldn't have met if you hadn't ventured
|
|
out of familiar territory to find them. The following is an account of
|
|
one such meeting that took place in the spring of last year.
|
|
|
|
As I was walking through the mostly unpaved maze of narrow streets
|
|
that make up Kathmandu, I stopped to get my bearings in Durbar Square,
|
|
an open area in the center of the city and home to some of Nepal's
|
|
most important temples, which rise up from the square amid a handful
|
|
of impromptu open air markets. The tallest of these, the Maju Deval,
|
|
is dedicated to the god Shiva, the cosmic dancer who personifies both
|
|
the creator and destroyer. The lower part of the temple is constructed
|
|
in the form of a stepped pyramid, rather more like those found in
|
|
Mexico than those found in Egypt. Shortly after sitting down on one of
|
|
the ledges about a third of the way up the Eastern side, my attention
|
|
wass drawn to a cacophonous procession of dancers and musicians
|
|
carrying on below. I soon discovered that I was fortunate enough to be
|
|
witnessing one of the rare occasions when the Kumari Devi, or living
|
|
goddess, makes a public appearance. From my vantage point I had a
|
|
bird's eye view of the procession. It was shaping up to be an
|
|
interesting day.
|
|
|
|
About a half hour later I was approached by a small, middle aged man
|
|
in dirty orange robes and long hair. He looked every bit the
|
|
archetypal holy man, from the beads around his neck to the sandals on
|
|
his feet. He asked me in a curious broken sing song type of English if
|
|
I want to smoke some ganja. Naturally, as a tourist, I am always a bit
|
|
suspicious of locals offering contraband goods, and was reminded of
|
|
the oft repeated horror stories every traveler hears in many places
|
|
around the globe involving a combination of desperately poor locals
|
|
and corrupt officials conspiring against the naive and unsuspecting
|
|
foreign tourist. For advice I turned to a trusted acquaintance, who
|
|
gave a classic reply to my query. "Don't worry," he said. "He's a holy
|
|
man. He's OK."
|
|
|
|
With that assurance we went up into a little chamber at the very top
|
|
of the 300 year old structure. After partaking of several chillums of
|
|
Nepal's finest we emerged from the chamber into the fading light of
|
|
late afternoon. A group of about 10 people, mostly boys I estimated to
|
|
be in their late teens and early twenties, materialized seemingly out
|
|
of thin air to sit at the master's feet and be introduced to his new
|
|
foreign friend.
|
|
|
|
My host, Baba Ramananda Bherti, is well known in Kathmandu for his
|
|
selflessness and his unofficial role as custodian of the temple. Born
|
|
in 1951 in Kuala Lumpur, the son of a soldier in the British army, he
|
|
left home at the age of nine by stowing away on a ship. Eventually he
|
|
came to settle in Eastern Nepal where he learned Sanskrit and devoted
|
|
himself to the study of holy books. His teens and twenties were spent
|
|
visiting temples and holy places on the Indian Subcontinent. Little by
|
|
little he acquired a knowledge of yoga and traditional medicine by
|
|
putting together the little bits he learned in various places. His
|
|
search for "God Power" led him to the snowy Kashmir where he lived by
|
|
himself for several years, meditating and praying to Shiva. He
|
|
eventually took up residence in Kathmandu, living the life of a Saddhu
|
|
-- collecting alms and giving away his proceeds (usually to children),
|
|
sleeping anywhere, teaching, and maintaining the temple. He's angry
|
|
that the Nepalese government doesn't pay for the upkeep of the holy
|
|
sites, which as any visitor will attest, are generally in a state of
|
|
severe decay. He is considered to be holy by the other people I met
|
|
and is well respected by the community. From this I can gather that
|
|
the Nepalese have an extremely different conception of holiness than
|
|
we do in the West. Apart from his good works and his religious study,
|
|
his chief interests seem to be ganja, sex, and money -- not exactly
|
|
what one would expect from a holy man.
|
|
|
|
While we were smoking in the temple he told me of his yogic ability,
|
|
particularly his claim that he could lift a 20kg stone with his penis!
|
|
And he had pictures to prove it, taken by some Australian visitors in
|
|
exchange for an undisclosed amount of money. Indeed, money for him
|
|
seems to be almost a measure of holiness. He told of a Danish man who
|
|
traveled with him to holy places in India, and then paid him
|
|
handsomely.
|
|
|
|
Baba's current fiscal goal is to raise enough money to build a small
|
|
compound where he can be free to meditate and teach yoga. Someday he
|
|
wants to go to the West. I think he has visions of himself as another
|
|
Rajneesh.
|
|
|
|
His supporters in the temple compound, the kids I mentioned earlier,
|
|
make their living mainly by hustling in the bazaars and tourist spots.
|
|
They realize that they have no future with the system -- hard work in
|
|
Nepal simply won't bring in enough to make a better life for
|
|
themselves. They are uniformly intelligent and ambitious. Our
|
|
conversation in English about politics and the state of the world
|
|
lasted well past sundown.
|
|
|
|
In parting, Baba gave me a string of beads, said a prayer, and put a
|
|
red spot on my forehead. I was very stoned when I left -- sweating and
|
|
covered in dust staring at everything like a madman -- racing through
|
|
the back alleys of Kathmandu with that red mark, a crazy smile, and an
|
|
intense feeling of joy. It was a peak experience for me, one I'll
|
|
never forget. For a few short hours I felt holy, compliments of Baba.
|
|
|
|
|
|
--------------------------
|
|
AN "ECOTOURIST" ATTRACTION
|
|
by Miles Poindexter
|
|
|
|
With this network, one of my many goals is to introduce members to
|
|
organizations who are working for positive change. In the city of San
|
|
Francisco, there is a virtual gold mine of such organizations. Even if
|
|
you just take 1 day to visit some of these groups and pick up
|
|
literature or volunteer some help or just buy a T-shirt or something,
|
|
you are doing some thing pretty radical these days. If you have your
|
|
own zine, this is a great way to get ideas and information for
|
|
upcoming issues. It's also usually a great way to meet free-thinking,
|
|
intelligent and fun people.
|
|
|
|
When I first arrived here in August 1991, I visited Earth Island
|
|
Institute looking for work. They showed me a book with listings and
|
|
descriptions of every environmental group in the Bay Area (over 180!).
|
|
There was also information on green companies, organic farms, natural
|
|
and whole food stores, and many other things. It is an amazing
|
|
resource. If you're going to be in the Bay Area for a while, check it
|
|
out at the offices of Earth Island Institute or buy one. It's called
|
|
The Green Pages.
|
|
|
|
So without further delay, here's 10 groups I think are especially
|
|
worthy of checking out:
|
|
|
|
CEIP FUND: 512 Second St., 4th Floor, S.F., CA 94107-1483; (415) 543-
|
|
4400. Helps people find environmental careers nationwide.
|
|
|
|
CITIZENS FOR A BETTER ENVIRONMENT: 501 Second St., Suite 305, S.F., CA
|
|
94107; (415) 243-8393. Works to prevent and reduce toxic hazards to
|
|
human health and the California environment.
|
|
|
|
EARTH FIRST!: PO Box 411233, S.F., CA 94141; (415) 824-3841. Great
|
|
people. The cutting edge of activism!
|
|
|
|
ECOACT!: 438 Paris St., S.F., CA 94112; (415) 587-5372. Planning
|
|
recycling and other projects on S.F.S.U. campus.
|
|
|
|
ENVIRONMENTAL ACTION CENTER: PO Box 410563, S.F., CA 94144; (415)
|
|
647-9175. Grassroots activists, learn about current issues.
|
|
|
|
FUND FOR ANIMALS: Fort Mason Center, S.F., CA 94123; (415) 474-4020.
|
|
This office has a lot of vegetarian and animal rights literature. Also
|
|
check out MEDIA ALLIANCE and OCEAN ALLIANCE while you're at Fort
|
|
Mason.
|
|
|
|
GOLDEN GATE COUNCIL OF AMERICAN YOUTH HOSTELS: 425 Divisidero St.
|
|
#307, S.F. CA 94117; (415) 863-1444. Promotes world peace through
|
|
educational and recreational travel. Hey...that sounds a little like
|
|
us...scary.
|
|
|
|
INSTITUTE FOR FOOD AND DEVELOPMENT POLICY, FOOD FIRST: 145 Ninth St.,
|
|
S.F., CA 94103; (415) 864-3909. The woman who wrote "Diet for a Small
|
|
Planet" started this group. Extensive research info.
|
|
|
|
SEEDS OF PEACE: 2440 Sixteenth St., Box 241, S.F. CA 94103; (415)
|
|
420-1799. Many projects like "International Peace Walk" planned.
|
|
|
|
EARTH ISLAND INSTITUTE: 300 Broadway, Suite 28, S.F., CA 94133.
|
|
Actually, this is made up of over 20 organizations including Urban
|
|
Habitat, The International Marine Mammal Project (they orchestrated
|
|
the tuna boycott to save dolphins), and the Sea Turtle Restoration
|
|
Project.
|
|
|
|
|
|
----------------------
|
|
JOIN THE CRASH NETWORK!
|
|
|
|
Crasher: person who is traveling, guest.
|
|
Crashee: person who is allowing Crasher to sleep at residence,
|
|
host/hostess.
|
|
|
|
Joining is free! Send email to johnl@netcom.com for a questionnaire
|
|
(or send us an SASE to our mailing address, listed at the end of this
|
|
file). Filling it out and returning it gets you listed in our Crash
|
|
Directory, which is available only to members. Anytime you're planning
|
|
to travel, send $5 for an up-to-the-minute directory and follow the
|
|
guidelines below.
|
|
|
|
*************
|
|
HOW TO USE IT
|
|
|
|
You can use the Crash Directory to contact other members that you would
|
|
like to meet. Or if you have a destination or journey in mind, you can
|
|
use the directory to find potential crash sites along your planned route
|
|
(flexibility helps). Before your departure, contact your potential
|
|
crashee by mail, phone, or email and inquire about a visit. When all
|
|
your crashes are confirmed, you're ready to hit the proverbial road.
|
|
|
|
**************
|
|
THE CRASH CODE
|
|
|
|
1. Any Crashee can turn away a Crasher if they do not agree to the
|
|
Crash by prior consent.
|
|
2. No charge for stay unless agreed upon by both parties beforehand.
|
|
3. Toilet and shower facilities should be made available to Crasher
|
|
if possible.
|
|
4. Don't eat Crashee's food unless offered.
|
|
5. Don't use the Crashee's phone, stereo, TV or any other property
|
|
without their consent.
|
|
6. No stealing.
|
|
7. Don't bring friends over without the prior consent of the Crashee.
|
|
8. Treat each other with respect.
|
|
9. Help each other in every way possible during Crashes.
|
|
10. Crasher must obey rules of Crash Pad unless they contradict
|
|
above rules.
|
|
|
|
|
|
-----------------
|
|
CRASH INFORMATION
|
|
|
|
Editors: Miles Poindexter, John Labovitz.
|
|
|
|
Crash is published in January, March, May, July, September, and
|
|
November of each year.
|
|
|
|
Subscriptions are $5 for six issues. A sample issue is $1 or three
|
|
US 29c stamps. Back issues (text only) are available via anonymous FTP
|
|
at netcom.com in directory /pub/johnl/zines/crash. The printed issues
|
|
also contain illustrations and advertising; for the full Crash experience,
|
|
send for a printed sample.
|
|
|
|
Crash is happy to hear from you. Send artwork, articles, and aardvarks
|
|
to us at:
|
|
|
|
Crash
|
|
519 Castro Street #7
|
|
San Francisco, CA 94114 USA
|
|
email: johnl@netcom.com
|
|
|
|
If you are interested in advertising in the print or electronic
|
|
version of Crash, please contact us for rates and sizes.
|
|
|
|
Copyright (C) 1992 Crash. We encourage other zine editors to reprint
|
|
or excerpt parts of any articles written by us (Miles Poindexter or
|
|
John Labovitz). All we ask is that information about this magazine and
|
|
the network be included with it. If you wish to reprint something by
|
|
an outside contributor, please contact them beforehand (either by
|
|
their contact information listed after the article, or c/o Crash).
|
|
|
|
|
|
------------------
|
|
END OF CRASH MAR92
|