114 lines
8.1 KiB
Plaintext
114 lines
8.1 KiB
Plaintext
A Stress Analysis of a Strapless Evening Gown
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Charles E. Siem
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Since the beginning of recorded history, the human being has worn some sort
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of clothing either for protection or warmth. However, the present trend among
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the "fair sex" is to wear clothing not for protection or warmth, but solely
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to attract the attention of the opposite sex. To be more specific, it is
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through the use of clothing that the female most effectively catches the eye
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of the very appreciative but totally unsuspecting male.
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A variety of methods are employed to bring about this libido-awakening
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infliction on the poor male. One very popular method employed by the female is
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to wear transparent or seemingly transparent cloth to good advantage in certain
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areas. A common example is the transparent nylon blouse. Another powerful
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attractant is the tightly fitted garment. A well-known example of the type of
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weapon is the sweater. Yet another provoking method is by actually reducing
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the extent of body surface covered by cloth. A good example of this method
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is the modern bathing suit (e.g., Bikini). A delightful device which has
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sufficiently aroused the masculine sex is the use of durable but
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fragile-appearing cloth which gives the impression that at any moment the
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garment will slip down or that, better yet, certain parts may slip out of
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place. The best example of this method of attracting the attention of the
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weak and susceptible male is the strapless evening gown.
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Effective as the strapless evening gown is in attracting attention,
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it presents tremendous engineering problems to the structural engineer.
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He is faced with the problem of designing a dress which appears as if it will
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fall at any moment and yet actually stays up with some small factor of
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safety. Some of the problems faced by the engineer readily appear from the
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following structural analysis of strapless evening gowns.
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If a small elemental strip of cloth from a strapless evening gown is
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isolated as a free body in the area of plane A in Figure 1, it can be seen
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that the tangential force F1 is balanced by the equal and opposite tangential
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force F2. The downward vertical force W(weight of the dress) is balanced
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by the force V acting vertically upward due to the stress in the cloth above
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plane A. Since the algebraic summation of vertical and horizontal forces is
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zero and no moments are acting, the elemental strip is at equilibrium.
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Consider now an elemental strip of cloth isolated as a free body in the
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area of plane B of figure 1. The two tangible forces F1 and F2 are equal and
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opposite as before, but the force W(weight of dress) is not balanced by an
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upward force V because there is no cloth above plane B to supply this force.
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Thus, the algebraic summation of horizontal forces is zero, but the sum of
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the vertical forces is not zero. Therefore, this elemental strip is not in
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equilibrium; but it is imperative, for social reason, that this elemental
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strip be in equilibrium. If the female is naturally blessed with sufficient
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pectoral development, she can supply this very vital force and maintain the
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elemental strip at equilibrium. If she is not, the engineer has to supply
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this force by artificial methods.
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In some instances, the engineer has made use of friction to supply this
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force. The friction force is expressed by F = fN, where F is the frictional
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force, f is the coefficient of friction and N is the normal force acting
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perpendicular to F. Since, for a given female and a given dress, f is constant,
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then to increase F, the normal force N has to be increased. One obvious
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method of increasing the normal force is to make the diameter of the dress at
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c in figure 2 smaller than the diameter of the female at this point. This
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has, however, the disadvantage of causing the fibers along the line c to
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collapse, and if too much force is applied, the wearer will experience
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discomfort.
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As if the problem were not complex enough, some females require that
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the back of the gown be lowered to increase the exposure and correspondingly
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attract more attention. In this case, the horizontal forces F1 and F2(Figure 1)
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are no longer acting horizontally, but are acting downward at an angle shown
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(on one side only) by T. Therefore, there is a total downward force equal to
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the weight of the dress below B + the vector summation of T1 and T2. This
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vector sum increases in magnitude as the back is lowered because F = 2Ts in a,
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and the angle a increases as the back is lowered. Therefore, the vertical
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uplifting force which has to be supplied for equilibrium is increased for
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low-back gowns.
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Since there is no cloth around the back of the wearer which would supply
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a force perpendicular to the vertical axis of the female that would keep the
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gown of the lady from falling forward, the engineer has to resort to bone and
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wire frameworks to supply the sufficient perpendicular forces. (Falling of
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dress forward, away from the wearer, is considered unfair tactics among
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females.)
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If the actual force supplied is divided by the minimum force that is
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required to hold the dress up, the resulting quotient defines a factor of
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safety. This factor could be made as large as desired, but the engineers are
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required to keep the framework light and inconspicuous. Therefore, a
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compromise must be made between a heavy framework and a low factor of safety.
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With ingenious use of these frameworks, the backs of strapless gowns may be
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lowered until cleavage is impending.
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Assuming that the female is naturally endowed to supply the vertical force
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V, the problem is still left incomplete unless an analysis is made of the
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structures supplying this force. These structures are of the nature of
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cantilever beams. Figure 2 shows one of these cantilever beams (minus any
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aesthetical details) removed as a free body (and indeed, many such beams can
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be, in reality, removed as free bodies; e.g., certain artifacts). Since there
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are usually two such divided, the force acting on any one beam is F/2 and it is
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distributed over the beam from a to c. Here exposure and correspondingly more
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attention can be had by moving the dress line from a toward b. Unfortunately,
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there is a limit stress defined by S = F/2A (A being the area over which the
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stress acts). Since F/2 is constant, if the area A is decreased, the bearing
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stress must increase. The limit of exposure is reached when the area between
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b and c is reduced to a value of "danger point."
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A second condition exists which limits the amount of exposure. Vertical
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force F/2 is balanced by sheer force S acting on an area from d to e and by an
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internal moment M. The moment M causes tension in the fibers over the beams
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between e and a, and compression in the fibers between c and d. As the dress
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line is moved from A toward B, the moment M is increased, increasing the
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tension and compression again till "danger point."
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Since these evening gowns are worn to dances, an occasional horizontal
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force, shown in Figure 2 as i1, is accidentally delivered to the beam at the
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point c, causing impact loading, which compresses all the fibers of the beam.
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This compression tends to cancel the tension in the fibers between e and b, but
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it increases the compression between c and d. The critical area is at point d,
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as the fibers here are subject not only to compression due to moment and
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impact, but also to shear due to force S; a combination of low, heavy dress
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with impact loading may bring the fibers at point d to the "danger point."
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There are several reasons why the properties discussed in this paper have
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never been determined. For one, there is a scarcity of these beams for
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experimental investigation. Many females have been asked to volunteer for
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experiments along these lines in the interest of science, but unfortunately,
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no cooperation was encountered. There is also the difficulty of the
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investigator having the strength of mind to ascertain purely the scientific
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facts. Meanwhile, trial and error and shrewd guesses will have to be used by
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the engineer in the design of strapless evening gowns until thorough
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investigations can be made. |