1099 lines
59 KiB
Plaintext
1099 lines
59 KiB
Plaintext
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CHOOSING A CAT
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R. Roger Breton
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Nancy J Creek
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Making the Decision
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So! You've decided you want a cat, have you? Before taking the
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plunge there are a few things to take into account. The first and
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most important of these is so obvious, so self-evident, that we hesi-
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tate to mention it, and wouldn't were it not for the fact that it is
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so often overlooked.
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Your new cat will be a living, breathing, caring, cuddling, and fairly
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intelligent member of the family with many special needs and desires,
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not all of which are necessarily pleasant to fulfill. If you are not
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ready to meet the requirements of being a cat person, then consider a
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stuffed cat (polyester doesn't shed and kapok doesn't require a lit-
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terbox).
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The lifespan of a cat is typically fifteen to twenty years, all of
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which will be spent as a member of the family: this is roughly the
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same length of time a human child would be in residence. A cat is, in
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many ways, a perpetual small child: it has certain simple but ex-
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tremely necessary requirements (food, shelter, etc.), gives and re-
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ceives love, provides pleasure and amusement, does certain household
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chores (better than "other kids" at pest control, but lousy at washing
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dishes), and, like most small children, minds when it wants to.
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Unlike a small child, however, a cat doesn't require a baby sitter,
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doesn't demand the latest in toys or fashions, and never needs ortho-
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pedic shoes.
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In effect, a cat provides a maximum of pleasure to its people with a
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minimum of trouble, if only the people follow a few simple guidelines.
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One extremely important thing to consider: never obtain a cat (or any
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other living creature) as a gift for someone else unless you are
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absolutely certain that the recipient really wants and is able to care
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for it. Many a Christmas kitten is discarded in September when the
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"new" has worn off and kittenhood is no longer evident. In a like
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manner, never obtain a cat as a status symbol, or for any reason other
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than love. Neither you nor the cat will be happy in the long run.
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Choosing a Cat
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When obtaining a cat there are several things for which to look: Is
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it the desired breed? Is it suitable for your lifestyle? Will it do
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well with other members of the household? Is it healthy? Is it
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friendly? What is its past? Does it wish to be a member of your
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household? And, last but far from least, are you ready to get your
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new cat?
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Choosing a Cat Page 1
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Be Prepared
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Before obtaining your new cat, there are a few preparatory steps to
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take. The first of these is paramount, do you have the needed arti-
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cles?
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The minimum a prospective cat owner should have in the way of equip-
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ment is: food and water dishes, litter box, carrier, flea/tick sham-
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poo, food, and litter. Prepare your prospective pet's eating and
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elimination areas ahead of time, the less hustle and bustle that needs
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to be done during its first few hours in its new home, the better.
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Crockery
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Place your cat's food and water in plain sight, but off the major
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traffic pattern of the household. A corner of the kitchen is usually
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satisfactory. Cats, while neat, are rarely Emily Post graduates, so
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place the food and water on a washable surface, such as tile or lino-
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leum.
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By placing the food and water in plain sight, it will be easy for you
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to check for their presence at any time (and harder to forget to
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check), and will also instill in your cat the sense that eating is a
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public activity. This last is especially important should your cat be
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the indoor/outdoor type, which often has a tendency to bring home the
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occasional snack. Trust us, it is far better to find half of a mouse
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in the middle of the kitchen than behind the living-room sofa: the
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latter usually being discovered by nose.
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Most soft plastic dishes (polyethylene or polypropylene) exude chemi-
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cals slowly, which your cat will be able to smell. This odor will
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turn off most cats, besides which the exuded chemicals are often
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harmful. If the dish has a slick, slightly slimy feel (as many plas-
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tics do), or has a detectable odor, don't use it.
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Hard plastics, such as styrenes and their derivatives (Melmac, Mela-
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mine, and similar materials) are good choices. Inexpensive hard
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plastic dishes such as those designed for babies are excellent.
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Stainless steel dishes are excellent, but do not use other metals such
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as aluminum, copper, brass, bronze, iron, or non-stainless steels, as
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they will often react with the food and water, producing oxides and
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other chemicals which your cat will then ingest. One drawback to
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stainless steel dishes are that they are light in weight. Only those
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with a broad non-tip base should be used.
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Glass or non-porous or glazed ceramic dishes are best all around, as
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they are heavy and completely odor-neutral.
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A simple rule of thumb can be followed here: buy only dishes that you
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yourself would not hesitate to eat out of.
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Choosing a Cat Page 2
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Food
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The choice of food for your cat may be based upon several criteria,
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the least of which is price. Commercial cat food comes in three
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types: canned (moist), soft-moist, and dry, all of which are suitable
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for feeding your cat. Do not feed your cat a diet of dog food or
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people food: both lack certain nutrients that are essential to a cat.
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Canned food has the most flavor, the highest price, and the most
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offensive odors (to humans, not cats). As a rule, good canned food
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contains a well-balance mixture of protein, fats, carbohydrates, and
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minerals. Exceptions to this are the "premium" or "gourmet" foods,
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which are often balanced for taste rather than nutrition. Be certain
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the food you use as a staple (treats are a separate issue) has the
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words "total" or "complete" nutrition, which are governed by law (the
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word "balanced" is not).
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Soft-moist foods have the advantages of minimal odor and long shelf
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life. They are good for about a day in the bowl, and should not be
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left out longer than that. Be aware that most soft-moist foods con-
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tain an abundance of preservatives to prevent spoilage, so labels
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should be read carefully.
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Dry foods have two strong advantages over other types: very long
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shelf and bowl life and an integral tooth-cleaning action during
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consumption. Most commercial dry foods are complete, well-balanced
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diets, though some brands, including at least one very popular nation-
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wide brand, contain what in our opinion is an excessive amount of dye.
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While shape is of importance to a cat, color is important only to
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people (people, of course, are the ones advertising is aimed at).
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One last note on foods: do not automatically be suspect of a catfood
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that shows a high percentage of fat: cats require a lot of fat in
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their diet. A well balance cat diet would turn the "other pet" into a
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canine blimp.
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Water
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Water is vitally important for your cat. Always keep a supply of
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fresh water to hand, especially if semi-moist or dry foods are being
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fed.
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All tap water should be allowed to stand for a considerable time (an
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hour or two) before serving. This allows the chlorine we humans put
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in our water to evaporate, thus making the water more palatable to our
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furry friends. If you serve tap water immediately, don't be surprised
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if your cat decides that the bowl contains something not nice and
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prefers to take its water from the "other bowl" in the small room with
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all the porcelain fixtures, where the water has been standing for a
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while.
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An important note here: milk is not water and should not be substi-
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tuted for water, even for kittens (after weaning, of course). Always
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provide plenty of water.
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Choosing a Cat Page 3
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The Litterbox
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What goes in must come out, making the litter box an absolute necces-
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sity. Any commercial litterbox is suitable, though covered litter
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boxes are best for both esthetic and effluvial reasons. Place the
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litter box in a quiet out of the way place, as cats like privacy when
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the need arises.
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Be certain the litterbox is sufficiently large for your cat. A too-
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small litterbox will often cause an "overhang" problem. Your cat
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should be able to enter the box and comfortably turn around in it.
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This is especially critical with covered boxes. A rule of thumb
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should be the width should be at least as long as the cat (not count-
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ing tail), and the length about half again as long. Most boxes are
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made on a 3:4 ratio (three inches in width for every four inches in
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length), though some commercial boxes are as oblong as 3:5, while
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others are as square as 4:5. All are suitable if large enough for the
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cat.
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An emergency or temporary litterbox can be easily made by placing a
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shallow cardboard box of the proper size inside of a large trash bag.
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After use, place the whole thing in another trash bag for disposal.
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One cautionary note: if your new cat is a small kitten, don't get a
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litterbox with a "stoop" higher than the kitten can manage easily.
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Don't depend upon the kitten's ability to jump to get it in the box:
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remember it will have a full bladder or bowel, and jumping is not the
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recommended activity at such times. In a pinch, a brick or block of
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wood may be used as a stoop to assist the kitten into the box, allow-
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ing it to jump out, but a temporary low-sided box is a better solu-
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tion.
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Any commercial cat litter, or even shredded newspaper, is satisfacto-
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ry, especially for the short term. Cleanliness is critical. If the
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box becomes filled with "cat exhaust," your cat will be reluctant to
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enter it (wouldn't you?). In such cases, the carpet may suffer.
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If at all possible, obtain a small quantity of soiled litter from the
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breeder. This should be sprinkled over your new, fresh litter to
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transfer the home smell to the new box. If for some reason it is
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impractical to transfer soiled litter, watch your cat closely until
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you are certain it has recognized the box for what it is. Usage is
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the only certainty. If it starts to investigate a corner, pick it up
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and transfer it immediately to the box while speaking softly and
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petting it. After it has used the box, praise it highly: this is
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much the same approach used to potty-train a human child, but is
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faster and easier.
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Travel
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Do not attempt to travel with your cat, new or otherwise, without re-
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straint: the best restraint is a good cat carrier. Never attempt to
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simply hold your cat, especially a new cat who has not yet learned to
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trust you completely. Always remember that a cat is still an animal
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Choosing a Cat Page 4
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and cannot understand strange or loud sounds, rapid motions, etc. If
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you are holding it and it panics, you may suddenly find yourself with
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an armful of teeth and claws.
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If you anticipate a lot of travel (vet trips count as travel), a
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sturdy plastic carrier is best, and can be obtained from any pet store
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and most breeders and veterinarians. An inexpensive cardboard carrier
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can be used for short, infrequent trips. A cardboard box with ample
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air holes can be used in an emergency.
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If travel must be accomplished without a carrier or box, wrap the cat
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securely in several layers of towel or a heavy pillowcase until it is
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completely immobilized, then transport it with a hand firmly but
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gently holding the scruff of its neck to prevent biting in the event
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of panic. Talk constantly to the cat in a soft loving tone to relax
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it as much as possible. The chances of panic in this case are in-
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creased by the cat's inability to move its legs. Under no circum-
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stances allow a child to hold a cat so restrained, as the child may
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actually lack the strength (or nerve) to hold onto the cat in a panic
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situation: cats are surprisingly strong for their size and can often
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escape from the grasp of an adult, much less a child.
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If the cat is ill or injured, especially with broken bones, call your
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vet immediately for advice on immobilization befor transporting it.
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Choice of Breed
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Of all the things to be considered when obtaining a cat as a general
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pet, the least important is the breed. After all, when choosing a
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friend, is it really important if he or she is blond or brunette? We
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do acknowledge that there is something special about an all-white cat,
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an all-black cat, or one with unusual markings. Likewise, each breed
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has certain characteristics that are often very desirable: one would
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attempt to take away our Abyssinian, Tut, at their own peril (and a
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dire peril it would be).
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For households with active children, especially small children, a
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mixed-breed cat has a distinct advantage over its purebred cousins.
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Children being children, they are often unintentionally cruel. The
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mixed-breed is usually a heartier, sturdier animal than the purebred,
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both physically and psychologically, and can often tolerate small
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childhood cruelties and indignities (such as being carried by the neck
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while dressed in doll clothes).
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On the other hand, if your desire is to raise cats, the question of
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breed is paramount. In this case, the choice becomes which breed and
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which members of that breed to choose.
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Suitability
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Choose a cat suitable for your lifestyle. If you are an outgoing
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individual and lead a fairly active life, you should choose a fairly
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active cat such as a Siamese or Maine Coon. Conversely, if you are a
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quiet or shy person, a Persian or Ragdoll might be a better choice.
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Choosing a Cat Page 5
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If your lifestyle or business takes you away from home a lot, choose a
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sturdy, self-sufficient cat such as an American Shorthair or Char-
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treux. If you are housebound or suffer from limited mobility, one of
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the tranquil breeds such as the Ragdoll or Turkish Angora, might be
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best. In the matter of personality, the selection of a specific breed
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of cat can be a good starting point in the overall choice of compan-
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ion.
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Adaptability to Others
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Like any other creature, individual cats vary widely in their response
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to adults, children, and other pets. As a rule, a cat will learn to
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accept all human members of the household, though many will express a
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definite preference for one particular human (and not always the
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obvious one at that). Most cats will also adapt to other non-human
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family members, such as another cat or "the other pet." The period of
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adjustment is usually from one to four weeks, though there are some
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individuals who simply will not adapt, particularly if a territorial
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dispute should occur.
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When there are other pets, a new kitten will usually fair better than
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an adult cat, and a neuter better than a whole animal (particularly
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among males).
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One other point: if a member of the family suffers from allergies or
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respiratory disorders, a non-shedding cat, or even a hypo-allergenic
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cat, may be a preferred choice.
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Having the Decision Made for You
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Occasionally, a cat may decide to adopt a human, rather than the other
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way around. When this occurs, the human is faced with two choices:
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fight or give in gracefully. A cat can be surprisingly tenacious
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towards its adopted "owner," often tolerating out and out abuse rather
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than leave or, perhaps, admit it made a bad choice.
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To be so selected is an honor. Unfortunately, it is an honor that not
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all people appreciate. If you feel you simply cannot accept this
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honor, it is best to transfer the cat's devotion to another, rather
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than to drive it away. If drive it away you must, then one of the
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most successful yet humane methods is the white-vinegar squirtgun.
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Cats loathe the taste and smell of vinegar, and it will do them no
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harm.
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If you can, take it in temporarily and try to find a friend or other
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who would be willing to provide a loving home. Your veterinarian may
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be of some assistance here, as he or she often knows of various adop-
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tion agencies or individuals who will welcome the animal.
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As an absolutely last resort, you may have the cat taken to your city
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or county animal shelter. Be aware that most shelter cats are de-
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stroyed after a short availability period. While most shelters these
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days use a humane method of euthanasia, such as lethal injection,
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there are still some shelters in the U.S. that use decompression, a
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Choosing a Cat Page 6
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truly excruciating way to die (but very cheap).
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Some shelters also ship excess animals to research laboratories.
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While we appreciate the bona-fide need for animals in medical research
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and recognize the valuable contributions such animals have given
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mankind (witness insulin), we are also aware that much research is
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profit or vanity oriented, such as that done by some cosmetics houses,
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and would just as soon that cats not be involved.
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The best alternative to the "you have been chosen" problem is to meet
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it head on...and give in. Some of the all-time greats in catdom chose
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their own humans, and that scruffy-looking alleycat scratching at your
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back door may be but love and a bath away from being another Morris.
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Once the newcomer has been accepted, it should immediately be de-
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ticked (maybe), de-mited (probably), de-fleaed (almost definitely),
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and taken to the vet for a thorough examination.
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Health
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One very important criteria for obtaining a new cat is to choose a
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healthy animal. A sick or injured animal may appeal to your sympa-
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thies, and may, in the long run, make an excellent and rewarding cat,
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but be prepared for extensive veterinary bills and special handling
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should the cat be seriously or chronically ill, injured, or deformed.
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We feel that any condition in which the cat is in constant pain might
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best be dealt with via euthanasia. A "special" cat, however, can be
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much like a special child: extra love for extra care. Your veteri-
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narian is the best one to advise you on making a rational and proper
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decision concerning the adoption of an unwell animal.
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Normally, you should check a prospective cat carefully before making a
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decision to adopt, and reject any animal that is not "perfect." This
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is not always easy to accomplish, since adoption is primarily an
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emotional experience and love at first sight is common between cats
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and people (those who say you can't buy love have never been to an
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animal shelter).
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The need to check the animal's health goes up with its cost. Reputa-
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ble breeders always offer a no-risk period wherein you may have the
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cat examined by your own veterinarian, and always offer a reasonable
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guarantee of good health, varying from two weeks to ninety days. Most
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states also allow recovery through the courts, regardless of time,
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should the animal have an undetectable chronic condition or birth
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defect (a queen that cannot carry, for example). We have found,
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however, that most courts limit recovery to a replacement or buy-back
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of the animal, and by the time the case comes to court most people
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have become so attached to their cat as to opt to keep it, even with
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whatever condition it might have.
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The Initial Examination
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To make a preliminary check of a potential adoptee, start with its
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behavior and appearance. In behavior, the cat should be alert and
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responsive around strangers (you). It should be curious, cautious but
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Choosing a Cat Page 7
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unafraid, and should come up to sniff an outstretched hand. Use no
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incentives for this test: after all you're checking the cat's re-
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sponse to you, not to a Kitty Munchie. After making initial introduc-
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tions, the cat should permit itself to be petted and "skritched"
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behind the ears.
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When offered a string or piece of crumpled paper, the cat should show
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curiosity and a willingness to play. A lack of interest may indicate
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an ill or jaded animal. This is not super conclusive, however, as the
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cat may be simply tired (which should show as yawns, cats not being
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especially bashful).
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In posture, the cat should walk smoothly, with no sign of limping or
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favoring a foot, with tail erect and head high. A drooping tail
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and/or head indicate a nervous or possibly ill cat. The play of
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muscles under the skin, visible in shorthaired animals, should be
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smooth and beautiful. If possible, have the cat walk over obstacles,
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such as the lap of a person sitting on the floor, and observe the
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placement of feet and overall stride. There should be no hesitation
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or uncertainty in its movements even though the surface is irregular.
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The legs and tail should be firm and strong, with no signs of scabs,
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lumps, or tenderness. The abdomen and groin should be free from lumps
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and swellings. Lumps, especially around the navel or in the groin,
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may be indicative of hernia. The ribs should be easily felt, but not
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obvious under the fur. If the ribs cannot be felt, the cat is proba-
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bly obese: if obvious, it may be undernourished.
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The anus should be relatively clean and dry, free from discharge. It
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should be pink or pale brown: a red, swollen, or draining anus usual-
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ly indicates diarrhea and/or a parasitic infestation.
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The genitals should also be clean and free from discharge. In males,
|
||
a draining or swollen penis indicates a definite problem, possibly
|
||
urolithiasis or FUS. In females, a discharge may indicate a gyneco-
|
||
logical disorder. A reddish or slightly swollen vulva may indicate
|
||
the imminent onset of estrus (heat): the latter is a normal condition
|
||
for females in season.
|
||
|
||
There should be six to eight nipples (technically, there are eight,
|
||
but one or two sometimes don't develop fully), all of which should be
|
||
small and pale pink in males, slightly larger in non-pregnant, non-
|
||
lactating females. In pregnant or nursing queens, the nipples will be
|
||
considerably larger and pinker, often with a definite "breast." It is
|
||
not unusual for nursing queens to have an irregular breast pattern, as
|
||
each kitten picks a specific nipple for exclusive use, and any nipple
|
||
not chosen will dry up and lose its breast. In either males or fe-
|
||
males a tender or abnormally swollen nipple or breast may indicate a
|
||
possible blocked teat, mastitis, or gynecomastia, all of which are
|
||
problems.
|
||
|
||
The coat should be clean and glossy, free from fleas and other para-
|
||
sites. It should have a faint and spicy odor, slightly stronger in
|
||
males. A distinctly strong or musty odor may be a sign of problems,
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 8
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
possibly a fungal infection.
|
||
|
||
The feet and nails should be clean and strong, with no encrustations
|
||
and no soft or spongy pads. Beware of the cat with tender feet.
|
||
Polydactylism (extra toes) is common and poses no problem unless you
|
||
plan to breed the cat. Cats normally have five toes on each front
|
||
foot and four on each rear.
|
||
|
||
The eyes should be clear and bright, free from cloudiness or dis-
|
||
charge. A little easily-cleaned dirt in the corner is normal, but
|
||
sticky or encrusted dirt indicates a discharge, which could be a sign
|
||
of a blocked tear duct, conjunctivitis, sinusitis, or an upper respi-
|
||
ratory infection. The haw (third eyelid) should be fully retracted.
|
||
A visible or exposed haw indicates illness.
|
||
|
||
The ears should be clean and held forward, fully pricked or erect
|
||
(except, of course, for the Scottish Fold and American Curl, which
|
||
have unique ears). Beware the cat with a droopy ear or that shakes
|
||
its head or scratches at its ear, it probably has ear mites. A dark
|
||
or waxy encrustation or discharge in the ears may also be a sign of
|
||
ear mites. While ear mites are relatively easy to control, it is a
|
||
time-consuming process and is likely to spread to other animals in the
|
||
household. The symptoms of ear mites may also be produced by other
|
||
parasites or other forms of otitis.
|
||
|
||
The cat should respond to a sudden behind-its-head and out-of-sight
|
||
clap of the hands by darting forward a few feet (getting out of dan-
|
||
ger) then turning to identify the sound. A cat that promptly disap-
|
||
pears is overly nervous.
|
||
|
||
White cats with blue eyes are often deaf. A deaf cat may make a very
|
||
good pet, but must absolutely be kept indoors. Be prepared for a
|
||
seemingly aloof cat, as it will not respond when called (the true test
|
||
of a deaf cat versus an aloof one is a lack of response to the "cat-
|
||
signal," commonly called a canopener).
|
||
|
||
The nose should be slightly moist and cool to the touch. It will
|
||
seldom be as wet as that of the "other pet," and on occasion may be
|
||
dry, especially immediately after a face washing, but should always be
|
||
cool. A hot nose may be a sign of fever and, since cats rarely have
|
||
a non-specific fever (unlike humans), may be a sign of severe disorder
|
||
or illness.
|
||
|
||
The nose should also be clean and free from discharge or encrustation,
|
||
either of which may be a symptom of upper respiratory infection.
|
||
Obviously, since cats seldom use a tissue, there may be a small amount
|
||
of residual encrustation, especially inside the nostrils where the cat
|
||
cannot reach.
|
||
|
||
The mouth is usually pink overall, with no coating on the tongue. In
|
||
some individuals, the inside of the mouth may be pigmented, making
|
||
assessment more difficult. The teeth should be clean and white with
|
||
no excessive tartar buildup and the gums should be firm and pink.
|
||
When lightly pressed with the tip of a finger (not the fingernail),
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 9
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
the gums should be pale under pressure and promptly return to normal
|
||
when the pressure is released. Abnormally pale, bluish, or red or
|
||
dark gums, or gums the bleed when pressed or return to color very
|
||
slowly, may be a sign of gingivitis, periodontal disease, respiratory
|
||
distress, toxicity problems, or other illness.
|
||
|
||
Except immediately after eating, the breath should not be unpleasant.
|
||
Bad breath, especially sour breath, can be a sign of mouth, respirato-
|
||
ry, or gastric problems.
|
||
|
||
The palate should, like the rest of the mouth, be a healthy pink. It
|
||
should not be cleft. Cleft palate is a common but serious birth
|
||
defect.
|
||
|
||
The teeth, especially the canines and carnassials, should be firm and
|
||
unbroken. When very gently tapped with a pencil, there should be no
|
||
pain (evidenced by a sudden violent jerk of the cat's head): the
|
||
presence of pain indicates possible abscesses. Missing or broken
|
||
incisors are of no consequence, as long as there is no pain, since the
|
||
cat doesn't use them for much and can get along quite nicely without
|
||
them (the only "damage" is cosmetic, but we've never yet met a cat
|
||
whose vanity required false teeth).
|
||
|
||
History
|
||
|
||
Once your layman's examination has determined that the cat is probably
|
||
healthy, you should check into its past. Has it had its shots? Which
|
||
specific shots of which specific vaccines? Obtain a copy of the shot
|
||
record, if possible. Has it been tested for feline leukemia and the
|
||
feline immunodeficiency virus and is it FeLV and FIV negative? If it
|
||
is FeLV or FIV positive, you should perhaps think twice before bring-
|
||
ing it into contact with any other cats you may have.
|
||
|
||
Also important is identification of any kittenhood illnesses, in-
|
||
juries, etc. Basically, an entire medical history should be obtained
|
||
whenever possible, as this will assist the veterinarian in his/her
|
||
evaluation of overall health.
|
||
|
||
A casual check into its family history, personalities and sizes of its
|
||
parents, longevity of its immediate ancestors, etc., will give a good
|
||
indication of its ultimate personality, size, and lifespan.
|
||
|
||
Choosing a Veterinarian
|
||
|
||
Choose a good veterinarian. First and foremost, be certain that
|
||
he/she is a fully license and certified Doctor of Veterinary Medicine
|
||
(DVM). Avoid any "veterinarian" who is the least bit reluctant about
|
||
showing his/her credentials. Like other doctors, most veterinarians
|
||
proudly display their credentials on their office walls (and rightly
|
||
so, considering the years of study and training they require).
|
||
|
||
In some areas, the local "vet" may not be a doctor, but rather a
|
||
"natural" or "holistic" healer. Such people are not veterinarians and
|
||
may not legally call themselves such. While some of you as individu-
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 10
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
als may prefer a holistic approach to medicine (and such is certainly
|
||
your right and prerogative), such choices are matters of faith, and
|
||
entirely beyond the grasp of a cat. Use a licensed veterinarian.
|
||
|
||
The Veterinary Examination
|
||
|
||
If possible, arrange with your vet so that you may bring in the cat
|
||
directly from the breeder, original owner, animal shelter, or wherev-
|
||
er. Be prepared to leave the cat with the doctor overnight, if neces-
|
||
sary, until a complete physical and all needed tests have been per-
|
||
formed and the vet pronounces the cat fit. If the breeder does not
|
||
have an FeLV and FIV negative cattery, be certain to have the appro-
|
||
priate tests performed before mixing the new cat with your others (if
|
||
there are no others, the tests should still be performed, but the
|
||
urgency is gone). Obtain a fresh stool sample from the breeder so the
|
||
doctor may check for internal parasites (worms).
|
||
|
||
With a little care, a healthy mature cat can make a wonderful addition
|
||
to any home.
|
||
|
||
George or Georgette
|
||
|
||
One simple detail that many people overlook for one reason or another
|
||
is a determination of the sex of your new family member. It really is
|
||
rather simple. Be not embarrassed, the cat won't care that you looked
|
||
at its "privates" (which are, after all, not private to other cats).
|
||
|
||
First, with the tail up and the suitable end towards you, the anus
|
||
should be easy to spot. The fur stops short of the anus at the White-
|
||
all line, forming a circular bald spot about the size of a shirt
|
||
button.
|
||
|
||
In a male cat, the scrotum, containing the testicles, is directly
|
||
below the anus. Except in white cats or white-and-colored cats with
|
||
white rears, the scrotum is often covered in short, fine, black or
|
||
dark brown fur. These "badges" are quite prominent in pale-colored
|
||
cats, such as the Siamese. In neutered males, the scrotum may be
|
||
smaller, but is usually still obvious. The penis is a little below
|
||
the scrotum, and is usually completely withdrawn in its sheath. The
|
||
tip is sometimes visible.
|
||
|
||
In a female cat, the vulva is directly below the anus. The anus and
|
||
vulva together form an inverted exclamation point. Again, except in
|
||
white cats, it is usual for the vulva to be covered or surrounded by
|
||
short, fine, black or dark brown fur. The exact shape of this fur
|
||
pattern will vary among individuals.
|
||
|
||
If you still cannot determine the animal's sex, or for final confirma-
|
||
tion, ask your vet.
|
||
|
||
Heinz -- Perhaps the Best Breed of All
|
||
|
||
One of the most maligned of all cats is the mixed-breed, or Heinz
|
||
(after the H.J. Heinz Company of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, famous for
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 11
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
"57 Varieties" of pickles). If there is one thing the Heinz does not
|
||
deserve, its the constant bad press.
|
||
|
||
What goes into the Heinz? Well, like all cats, it must follow the
|
||
rules of genetics and environment. What a given Heinz will be like
|
||
depends upon its basic stock, how many generations of interbreeding
|
||
and crossbreeding there have been, and the environment in which it has
|
||
been reared, with this last factor the most critical.
|
||
|
||
To illustrate the point, lets assume a single-father litter of four
|
||
marmalade (orange and white) toms. We would expect, then, that since
|
||
they all have the same basic genetic makeup, they should be pretty
|
||
much alike. Genetically, this may be true, but if each is raised in
|
||
an entirely different environment, we will end with radically differ-
|
||
ent cats.
|
||
|
||
Tom number one leaves the nest at an early age, and takes up residence
|
||
in a copse. He must survive by his wits, in direct competition with
|
||
skunks, raccoons, and the local feral cats. After, say, four years,
|
||
we could expect him to be completely feral, effectively a wild animal.
|
||
He would be completely untamable in the normal sense.
|
||
|
||
Tom number two also leaves the nest at an early age, but takes up
|
||
residence in an alley. He also must survive by his wits, but does
|
||
have constant exposure to mankind. After the same four years we could
|
||
expect him to be semi-feral, cautious and wary around man. If a
|
||
person were to show patience and kindness, especially in the form of
|
||
food, he could be won over, but would never make a good indoor-only
|
||
pet, as his roaming and territorial instincts would be fully de-
|
||
veloped.
|
||
|
||
Tom number three stays in the nest for a full twelve weeks and is
|
||
taken to a home as a gift for a child. Unfortunately, neither the
|
||
child nor its parents really care for the cat after the "new" has worn
|
||
off, even though it has a "good" home with plenty of food, clean
|
||
litter, proper medical care, etc. We would expect this tom to become
|
||
a housecat, aloof and somewhat cold with little interaction with his
|
||
human companions: no love given, no love returned. While he may be
|
||
friendly and not run when approached, he is definitely not a member of
|
||
the family.
|
||
|
||
Tom number four stays in the nest for a full twelve weeks and is taken
|
||
home by hard-core ailurophiles (such as your authors). We can expect
|
||
him to become a friendly, loving animal, full of life and vigor, and
|
||
constantly in the center of whatever the family is doing.
|
||
|
||
As we said, environment is all-important.
|
||
|
||
Assuming that you the reader are an ailurophile (if not, you're read-
|
||
ing the wrong stuff), what can you expect your Heinz to be like?
|
||
Almost anything, which is part of the beauty of the breed!
|
||
|
||
When a child is born, its adult appearance can usually be determined
|
||
with some degree of accuracy by looking at its parents and grandpar-
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 12
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
ents (cousins don't count, as they have other genes in their blood).
|
||
This will help determine its physical appearance, but what about its
|
||
personality? Again, look to its parents and, to a lesser degree, its
|
||
grandparents. As any psychologist will tell you, child beaters are
|
||
most often themselves beaten children.
|
||
|
||
The same holds true for kittens. Ignoring for the moment the physical
|
||
characteristics, which are, after all, easily determined, you can look
|
||
to its parents and grandparents for probable disposition (especially
|
||
its mother). A shy, fearful queen will raise shy, fearful kittens,
|
||
who may never become full-fledged pets, whereas a friendly, outgoing
|
||
queen will raise friendly, outgoing kittens.
|
||
|
||
All these possibly inherited psychological characteristics pale,
|
||
however, when confronted with environment. We once met a mean, vi-
|
||
cious Abyssinian, a breed known for its loving disposition. Baring
|
||
some gross physical ailment such as a brain tumor, only a human could
|
||
have made that cat that way (it was always a housecat, never feral or
|
||
semi-feral), and the human that destroyed the psyche of that poor
|
||
animal was himself mean and vicious, no matter how polite and smiling
|
||
he may have been.
|
||
|
||
On the other hand, one of your authors has spent years "gentling"
|
||
various Heinz cats into pets for the elderly, and in all that time has
|
||
had only one cat he couldn't gentle: a black and white feral female
|
||
with a litter of very sick kittens. While the mother was unsalvage-
|
||
able, the sole surviving kitten, Brownnose, is still in residence.
|
||
|
||
There are a couple of distinct advantages of the Heinz over the pure-
|
||
breds. First, since they are mixes, they are not limited to any given
|
||
colors or patterns, creating a broad spectrum of truly unique individ-
|
||
uals.
|
||
|
||
Second, they are usually free (or nearly so).
|
||
|
||
It is hoped that those of you seeking a new cat will not overlook the
|
||
obvious charms and beauty of the Heinz, as they quite often make the
|
||
best of pets.
|
||
|
||
Kitten versus Cat
|
||
|
||
Choosing a kitten instead of an adult cat poses a slight variation on
|
||
the selection routine. The first thing to remember is that a kitten
|
||
is not a cat: it has differing needs, just as the needs of a human
|
||
baby are different than those of an adult.
|
||
|
||
Age of Separation
|
||
|
||
The first thing to consider in choosing a kitten should be its kitten-
|
||
hood: let it have one. Under no circumstances should a kitten be
|
||
taken from its mother and littermates before it is six weeks old.
|
||
Eight weeks is better and ten weeks is even better. Most reputable
|
||
breeders will not allow the purchase of a kitten before it is twelve
|
||
to thirteen weeks of age. Quite a range of ages: six to thirteen
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 13
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
weeks. How is one to know which is best? Twelve to thirteen weeks is
|
||
best, beyond doubt, but most people with an unwanted litter on their
|
||
hands aren't willing to wait that long (to a breeder, it's not an
|
||
unwanted litter).
|
||
|
||
During the first six weeks of a kitten's life it is totally dependent
|
||
upon its mother (natural or surrogate). It is weaned during the sixth
|
||
week. To remove such a kitten from maternal care at age six weeks is
|
||
roughly equivalent to removing a human child from maternal care at age
|
||
2-1/2. Such a kitten (or child) is just not ready to make it on its
|
||
own.
|
||
|
||
Immediately after weaning, the mother cat begins her kittens' life
|
||
training. By eight weeks, the kittens have learned that food must be
|
||
hunted and killed, that other cats are not always potential enemies,
|
||
and has advanced in intra-litter social graces. By ten weeks, the
|
||
kittens have learned the rudimentary basics of hunting and have begun
|
||
to fine-tune and develop their social skills. By twelve weeks the
|
||
kittens have developed a full set of social and hunting skills, lack-
|
||
ing only practice to perfect them, and are ready to begin leaving
|
||
home. In the wild, such sojourns are short trips, gradually increas-
|
||
ing in length until about age six months, unless another litter comes
|
||
along and they are driven out.
|
||
|
||
The thirteenth week required by most breeders allows them to be cer-
|
||
tain that the kittens have their shots and are sound of body and
|
||
spirit. The kittens' inherited maternal immunities wear off during
|
||
the twelfth and thirteenth weeks, and if they are sensitive to some
|
||
endemic disease or virus, the illness will develop at that time. In
|
||
the wild only 30 per cent of all kittens born make it to adulthood.
|
||
|
||
Sexing a Kitten
|
||
|
||
Sexing a kitten is often much more difficult than sexing an adult cat,
|
||
and even the best of us may occasionally make the embarrassing error.
|
||
In male humans the genitalia are external at all periods during a
|
||
lifetime, but there have been initial errors made in the sexing of
|
||
newly born babies (really!); this in our own species, with which we
|
||
are most familiar. How much greater the possibilities for error in a
|
||
different species, and at that one where the obvious male genitalia
|
||
are internal in the very young!
|
||
|
||
In a kitten, especially a very young kitten, the anus and the genita-
|
||
lia are very close together. In six-week male kittens, the testes are
|
||
internal and the scrotum is often undeveloped. In this case the penis
|
||
(in its sheath) is the first "whatever" encountered below the anus,
|
||
and is typically about three-eighths of an inch below the anus, ex-
|
||
panding to about five-eighths of an inch by ten weeks. In appearance,
|
||
the anus and penis resemble a colon: one dot over another.
|
||
|
||
In six-week female kittens, the vulva is seen as a short line about
|
||
one-quarter of an inch below the anus, expanding to about three-
|
||
eighths of an inch by ten weeks. In appearance, the anus and vulva
|
||
form an upside-down exclamation point: a dot over a short line.
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 14
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
In some kittens, especially longhairs, the genitalia are often hidden
|
||
in the fur and are very hard to see clearly. This problem may be
|
||
eliminated by wetting the area thoroughly and parting the fur so that
|
||
the shape of the genital organ itself can be seen: a round dot for
|
||
males and a short line for females.
|
||
|
||
By twelve weeks the male's testes have descended and sexing is as for
|
||
an adult cat (just smaller). The dark fur around the genital area
|
||
does not normally develop until puberty.
|
||
|
||
Cat versus Kitten
|
||
|
||
When it comes to selecting a new pet, the majority of people opt to
|
||
choose a kitten over a full grown cat. The reasons for this are, we
|
||
feel, rather obvious: kittens are cute, and kittens have not yet
|
||
developed any bad habits (presumably).
|
||
|
||
Both of these reasons disregard several basic points in favor of
|
||
adults. An adult cat has already made it past the deadliest time in a
|
||
cat's life, the twelfth and thirteenth weeks wherein the mother's
|
||
immunities cease and the kitten must make it in this germ- and virus-
|
||
laden world strictly on its own merits. As said before, only 30
|
||
percent of kittens survive in the wild, with about half of those that
|
||
die (35 percent of all feral cats) succumbing to post-weaning immune
|
||
deficiencies. In housecats the odds are about twelve percent for
|
||
death from this cause.
|
||
|
||
On a different but equally deadly basis, most adult cats in animal
|
||
shelters are doomed creatures unless someone adopts them.
|
||
|
||
An adult cat is a mature cat, and has already proven its survivabili-
|
||
ty. It is able to adapt to and cope with situations and things that
|
||
could be harmful to a kitten. Kittens are often seriously injured or
|
||
killed by such seemingly innocent entities as a swinging kitchen door,
|
||
which can easily break the neck or back of a small kitten should it be
|
||
caught between door and jamb.
|
||
|
||
An adult cat is often much better able to tolerate children, who,
|
||
without intent, often smother, choke, or squeeze a kitten to death.
|
||
An adult cat, being stronger, is able to get away from a serious
|
||
situation, or survive simply because it can take more squeezing.
|
||
|
||
Psychologically, an adult cat is stronger as well. If a child is
|
||
overly aggressive and should hurt a kitten, the kitten, being young
|
||
and unable to understand will often develop a homophobia towards
|
||
children or all of one sex of people. An adult cat usually knows
|
||
better and can soon put that aggressive child in its place (cat
|
||
scratches are a great object lesson and are rarely serious medically)
|
||
without permanent hostilities setting in.
|
||
|
||
As an aside on the subject of scratches: the proper treatment is a
|
||
thorough cleansing with soap and water, followed by the application of
|
||
a mild antiseptic, such as hydrogen peroxide, mercurichrome, iodine,
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 15
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
or an antibacterial ointment, and a covering of a light, breathable
|
||
bandage to keep dirt out. Check the scratches again in six to eight
|
||
hours. They should be well on the way to healing by then. In the
|
||
unlikely event there is inflammation or swelling, or if pain still
|
||
persists, foreign matter may have entered the wound and you should
|
||
seek medical attention for possible infection.
|
||
|
||
It is important to remember that kittens are children in their own
|
||
right, and therefore not responsible for their actions. They often
|
||
bite or scratch without even being aware that they are doing so, thus
|
||
inflicting unnecessary pain and injury upon their playmates, cat or
|
||
human. Other kittens have a layer of fur to protect them, human
|
||
children do not. Also, since such bites or scratches are unconscious-
|
||
ly inflicted, there is no aiming or care exercised, and injury can
|
||
occur to a lip or eye as easily as elsewhere. Adult cats usually
|
||
place their scratches (or bites) exactly where they "belong": if they
|
||
are near an eye, it's because the injury being done to the cat was
|
||
severe, so it was giving maximum warning. Cats have an instinctive
|
||
knowledge of the value of eyes, and an uncannily accurate aim. Except
|
||
under a literal life-or-death situation, a cat will not attack the
|
||
eyes, but may well place scratches aside an eye as a strong warning:
|
||
it is in effect saying, "see, if you continue to hurt me I could blind
|
||
you."
|
||
|
||
An exception is, as with all animals (and a whopping lot of people,
|
||
too), unintentional injury done in panic. Don't be caught holding a
|
||
cat or kitten in your arms when the neighbor's dog decides to jump up
|
||
and bite its tail!
|
||
|
||
More seriously, a badly frightened or injured animal is dangerous:
|
||
never, never handle such an animal without protection and without
|
||
restraining it first.
|
||
|
||
For many people, a cat is often a far better choice than a kitten, as
|
||
its personality is fully developed and can be matched to that of the
|
||
human quite easily.
|
||
|
||
In summation, don't immediately assume that because your pet is "new"
|
||
it must be new.
|
||
|
||
Hair and Dander
|
||
|
||
Allergies are caused by allergens, which are almost always proteins.
|
||
Common allergens are pollen, spores, hair, dander, oils, and saliva.
|
||
Ragweed allergies and other hayfevers, for example, are usually pol-
|
||
len-based, while a rash or other dermatitis (skin problem) is often
|
||
oil-based. The vast majority of people who are allergic to cats are
|
||
sensitive to either cat hair or cat dander (skin flakes). There is
|
||
also a very small percentage of allergy sufferers who are allergic to
|
||
cat saliva. Since cats groom themselves thoroughly, they are, in
|
||
effect, covered in a layer of dried saliva.
|
||
|
||
People or anything else suffering from allergies usually do so because
|
||
they lack some enzyme necessary to break down the offending protein,
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 16
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
or lack the mechanism necessary to produce the required enzyme. Most
|
||
humans are "allergic" to poison ivy because we lack anti-poison-ivy
|
||
enzymes: the ability to eat or even handle poison ivy was not neces-
|
||
sary to the survival of the human species and either never evolved or
|
||
was lost.
|
||
|
||
For those who are allergic to anything, cats included, the first step
|
||
should be a trip to a qualified physician specializing in the treat-
|
||
ment of allergies. Most allergies can be safely and effectively
|
||
controlled these days: medical science has made great strides in this
|
||
direction, and people who could only suffer a decade ago can live
|
||
quite normal, comfortable lives today. It is always better to fit the
|
||
world around you than to be forced to live in a small portion of that
|
||
world.
|
||
|
||
Should medical science fail and the individual be sensitive to cat
|
||
hair or dander, the obvious solution would be to avoid cats. We feel
|
||
this to be too great a sacrifice to ask of anyone if there is any
|
||
alternative at all. Fortunately, there are several breeds of cats
|
||
that qualify as hypo-allergenic.
|
||
|
||
In theory, such a hypo-allergenic cat would be non-shedding: the
|
||
shedding of hair and the shedding of dander are related, and will be
|
||
considered together. With only a single exception (the hairless
|
||
sphinx breed), cats are fur-bearing animals, and fur-bearing animals
|
||
shed: cats shed, period. The question is how do they shed and what
|
||
do they shed.
|
||
|
||
Cat Fur
|
||
|
||
Cats have four types of hair: vibrissae (whiskers), located on the
|
||
cheeks, over the eyes, beneath the ears, and on the elbows; guard
|
||
hairs, which are the longest and oiliest and give the coat its sheen
|
||
and water repellency; awn hairs, which are almost as long as guard
|
||
hairs and give the coat its density and color; and the short, extreme-
|
||
ly fine down hairs, which act as an insulating layer to keep the cat
|
||
warm or cool as conditions require. In a typical coat there are about
|
||
eight to ten times as many down hairs as awn hairs and about six to
|
||
eight times as many awn hairs as guard hairs.
|
||
|
||
Despite the vast preponderance of down hairs, almost all the hair a
|
||
cat sheds is awn hairs and guard hairs. When an awn or guard hair is
|
||
shed, it often causes a slight chipping of the dead skin around the
|
||
hair follicle. These little flakes of skin are dander. A cat, like a
|
||
human, may also suffer from a dermatitis or other skin condition
|
||
causing it to shed skin flakes not related to the shedding of hair.
|
||
Such dander is evidence of a medical condition, outside the norm, and
|
||
should be treated as such.
|
||
|
||
Non-Shedding Breeds
|
||
|
||
A few breeds, most notably the Rex's (Cornish Rex, Devon Rex, Oregon
|
||
Rex, and Si-Rex), have few or no guard and awn hairs, and are classed
|
||
as non-shedding or hypo-allergenic cats. Another and unrelated breed,
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 17
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
the Sphinx, has virtually no hair (possibly a very short fuzz on parts
|
||
of its body), and carries non-shedding to an extreme.
|
||
|
||
Primitive Breeds
|
||
|
||
From an alternative line of attack, so to speak, those people who are
|
||
allergic to cat fur often find that either the Abyssinian or the
|
||
Egyptian Mau (the true Egyptian Mau, not the "Mau" or "Egyptian" cat
|
||
of Britain, which is really a spotted Oriental Shorthair) may cause
|
||
little or no allergic reaction. This is because these two breeds are
|
||
"primitives," representing, as they do, the closest domestic breeds to
|
||
the original African Wildcat. (Both the Abyssinian and Egyptian Mau
|
||
claim direct and immediate lineage, with the Egyptian Mau's claim
|
||
being slightly stronger.) Being primitives, they literally have a
|
||
genetically simpler hair structure, containing less complex proteins.
|
||
Evidently, as mankind bred cats for differing textures and colors, he
|
||
also unintentionally altered the very structure of the hair and creat-
|
||
ed his own problems (another example of it's not nice to fool with
|
||
Mother Nature). People who are allergic to many things, including
|
||
cats, are often not allergic to Abyssinians and Egyptian Maus.
|
||
|
||
Hypo-Allergenic Breeds
|
||
|
||
If allergies are a problem, the breeds of choice should be the Sphynx,
|
||
the Cornish Rex, Devon Rex, Oregon Rex, or Si-Rex, or the Abyssinian
|
||
or Egyptian Mau, all of which also have the distinction of being
|
||
unique in appearance.
|
||
|
||
Do not seek the longhair version of these breeds, such as the Somali,
|
||
as the very trait you seek would be missing. For a similar reason,
|
||
mixed or partial breeds should also be avoided.
|
||
|
||
For people with only slight allergies, the difference between a shor-
|
||
thaired and longhaired breed may be sufficient (we wouldn't be sur-
|
||
prised if a really sensitive person sneezed at the very thought of a
|
||
Persian). As the hair became longer and silkier, it became genetical-
|
||
ly more complex as well, and more of a problem for our noses.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
Choosing a Cat Page 18
|
||
|
||
|
||
|