textfiles/drugs/ganja-1.txt

      // Ganja // Marijuana // Cannabis // Hemp // Bud // Pot //

/* Note:  We found this in all caps, and we are too fuckin lazy */
/* or stoned, to fix it.  So smoke a bowl, then read it...      */

MARIJUANA IS A DECIDUOUS PLANT WHICH GROWS FROM SEEDS. THE FIBROUS 
SECTION OF THE PLANT WAS (HAS BEEN REPLACED BY SYNTHETICS) USED TO 
MAKE ROPE. THE FLOWERING TOPS, LEAVES, SEEDS, AND RESIN OF THE PLANT 
IS USED BY JUST ABOUT EVERYONE TO GET HIGH.

    NORMALLY, THE VEGETABLE PARTS OF THE PLANT ARE SMOKED TO PRODUCE 
THIS "HIGH," BUT THAY CAN ALSO BE EATEN. THE AXTIVE INGREDIENT IN 
MARIJUANA RESIN IS THC (TETAHYDROCANNABINOL). MARIJUANA CONTAINS FROM 
1 - 4 PER CENT THC (4 PER CENT MUST BE CONSIDERED GOOD DOPE).

MARIJUANA GROWS WILD IN MANY PARTS OF THE WORLD, AND IS CULTIVATED IN 
MEXICE, VIETNAM, AFRICA, NEPAL, INDIA, SOUTH AMERICA, ETC.,ETC. THE 
MARIJUANA SOLD IN THE UNITED STATES COMES PRIMARILY FROM, YES, THE 
UNIITED STATES.

     IT IS ESTIMATED THAT AT LEAST 50 PER CENT OF THE GRASS ON THE 
STREETS IN AMERICA IS HOMEGROWN. THE NEXT LARGEST BUNCH COMES ACTOSS 
THE BORDERS FROM MEXICO, WITH SMALLER AMOUNTS FILTERING IN FROM 
PANAMA, OCCASIONALLY SOUTH AMERICA, AND OCCASINALLY, AFRICA.

HASHISH IS THE PURE RESIN OF THE MARIJUANA PLANT, WHICH IS SCRAPED 
FROM THE FLOWERING TOPS OF THE PLANT AND LUMPED TOGETHER. GANJA IS THE 
GROUND-UP TOPS OF THE FINEST PLANTS. (IT IS ALSO THE NAME GIVEN TO ANY 
SORT OF MARIJUANA IN JAMAICA.)

MARIJUANA WILL DETERIORATE IN ABOUT TWO YEARS IF EXPOSED TO LIGHT, AIR 
OR HEAT. IT SHOULD ALWAYS BE STORED IN COOL PLACES.

     GRASS PRICES IN THE UNITED STATES ARE A DIRECT REFLECTION OF THE 
LAWS OF SUPPLY AND DEMAND (AND YOU THOUGHT THAT HIGH SCHOOL ECONOMICS 
WOULD NEVER BE USEFUL). A SERIES OF LARGE BORDER BUSTS, A SHORT 
GROWING SEASON, A BAD CROP, ANY NUMBER OF THINGS CAN DRIVE THE PRICE
OF MARIJUANA UP.

DEMAND STILL SEEMS TO BE ON THE INCREASE IN THE U.S., SO PRICES SELDOM 
FALL BELOW LAST YEAR'S LEVEL.

EACH YEAR A SMALL SEASONAL DROUGHT OCCURS, AS LAST YEAR'S SUPPLY RUNS 
LOW, AND NEXT YEAR'S CROP IS NOT UP YET. PRICES USUALLY RASE ABOUT 20 
- 75 PER CENT DURING THIS TIME AND THEN FALL BACK TO "NORMAL."

UNQUESTIONABLY, A LARGE SHORTAGE OF GRASS CAUSES A PERCENTAGE OF 
SMOKERS TO TURN TO HARDER DRUGS INSTEAD. FOR THIS REASON, NO GRASS 
CONTROL PROGRAM CAN EVER BE BENEFICIAL OR "SUCCESSFUL."


      GROW IT!

     THERE IS ONE SUREFIRE WAY OF AVOIDING HIGH PRICES AND THE GRASS 
DT'S: GROW YOUR OWN. THIS IS NOT AS DIFFICULT AS SOME "AUTHORITIES" ON 
THE SUBJECT WOULD MAKE YOU BELIEVE. MARIJUANA IS A WEED, AND A FAIRLY 
VIVACIOUS ONE AT THAT, AND IT WILL GROW ALMOST IN SPITE OF YOU.


       OUTDOORS

CONTRARY TO PROPULAR BELIEF, GRASS GROWS WELL IN MANY PLACE ON THE 
NORTH AMERICAN CONTINENT. IT WILL FLOURISH EVEN IF THE TEMPERATURE 
DOES NOT RAIS ABOVE 75 DEGREES.

THE PLANTS DO NEED A MINIMUM OF EIGHT HOURS OF SUNLIGHT PER DAY AND 
SHOULD BE PLANTED IN LATE APRIL/ERLY MAY, BUT DEFINITELY, AFTER THE 
LAST FROST OF THE YEAR.

GROWING AN OUTDOOR, OR "AU NATUREL", CROP HAS BEEN THE FACORED METHOD 
OVER THE YEARS, BECAUSE GRASS SEEMS TO GROW BETTER WITHOUT AS MUCH 
ATTENTION, WHEN IN ITS NATURAL HABITAT.

     OF COURSE, AN OUTDOORS SETTING REQUIRES SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS NOT 
ENCOUNTERED WITH AN INDOORS CROP; YOU MUST BE ABLE TO AVOID DETECTION, 
BOTH FROM LAW ENFORCEMENT FREAKS AND COMMON FREAKS, BOTH OF WHOM WILL 
TAKE YOUR WEED AND PROBABLY USE IT.

     OF COURSE, ONE WILL ALSO ARREST YOU. YOU MUST ALSO HAVE ACCESS TO
THE AREA TO PREPARE THE SOIL AND HARVEST THE CROP.

     THERE ARE TWO SCHOOLS OF THOUGHT ABOUT STARTING THE SEEDS. ONE 
SAYS YOU SHOULD START THE SEEDLINGS FOR ABOUT TEN DAYS IN AN INDOOR 
STARTER BOX (SEE TE INDOOR SECTION) AND THEN TRANSPLANT. THE OTHER 
THEORY IS THAT YOU SHOULD JUST START THEM IN THE CO

RECT LOCATION. FEWER PLANTS WILL COME UP WITH THIS METHOD, BUT THERE 
IS NO SHOCK OF TRANSPLANT TO KILL SOME OF THE SEEDLINGS HALFWAY 
THROUGH.

     THE SOIL SHOULD BE PREPREPARED FOR THE LITTLE DEVILS BY TURNING 
IT OVER A COUPLE OF TIMES AND ADDING ABOUT ONE CUP OF HYDRATED LIME 
PER SQUARE YARD OF SOIL AND A LITTLE BIT (NOT TOO MUCH, NOW) OF GOOD 
WATER SOLUBIE NITROGEN FERTILIZER. THE SOIL SHOULD NOW BE WATERED SEVERAL 
TIMES AND LEFT TO SIT ABOUT ONE WEEK.

THE PLANST SHOULD BE PLANTED AT LEAST THREE FEET APART, GETTING TOO 
GREEDY AND STACKING THEM TOO CLOSE WILL RESULT IN STUNTED PLANTS.

THE PLANTS LIKE SOME WATER DURING THEIR GROWING SEASON, BUT NOT TOO 
MUCH. THIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE AROUND THE ROOTS, AS TOO MUCH WATER WILL 
ROT THE ROOT SYSTEM.

GRASS GROWS WELL IN CORN OR HOPS, AND THESE PLANTS WILL HELP PROVIDE 
SOME CAMOUFLAGE. IT DOES NOT GROW WELL WITH RYE, SPINACH, OR 
PEPPERWEED.

IT IS PROBALLY A GOOD IDEA TO PLANT IN MANY SMALL, BROKEN PATCHES, AS 
PEOPLE TEND TO NOTICE PATTERNS.

   GENERAL GROWING INFO

BOTH THE MALE AND HE FEMALE PLANT PRODUCE THC RESIN, ALTHOUGH THE MALE 
IS NOT AS STRONG AS THE FEMALE. IN A GOOD CROP, THE MALE WILL STILL BE 
PLENTY SMOKABLE AND SHOULD NOT BE THROWN AWAY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

MARIJUANA CAN REACH A HIGHT OF TWENTY FEET (OR WOULD YOU RATHER WISH 
ON A STAR) AND OBTAIN A DIAMETER OF 4 1/2 INCHES. IF NORMAL, IT HAS A 
SEX RATIO OF ABOUT 1:1, BUT THIS CAN BE ALTERED IN SEVERAL WAYS.

THE MALE PLANT DIES IN THE 12TH WEEK OF GROWING, THE FEMALE WILL LIVE 
ANOTHER 3 - 5 WEEKS TO PRODUVE HER YOUNGUNS. FEMALES CAN WEIGH TWICE 
AS MUCH AS MALES WHEN THEY ARE MATURE.

     MARIJUANA SOIL SHOULD COMPACT WHEN YOU SQUEEZE IT, BUT SHOULD 
ALSO BREAK APART WITH A SMALL PRESSURE AND ABSORB WATER WELL. A NICE 
TEST FOR EITHER INDOOR OR OUTDOOR GROWING IS TO ADD A BUNCH OF WORMS 
TO THE SOIL, IF THEY LIVE AND HANG AROUNG, IT IS
OOS SOIL, BUT IF THEY DON'T, WELL, CHANGE IT. WORMS ALSO HELP KEEP THE 
SOIL LOOSE ENOUGH FOR THE PLANTS TO GROW WELL.

         SEEDS

     TO GET GOOD GRASS, YOU SHOULD START WITH THE RIGHT SEEDS. A NICE 
STARTING POINT IS TO SAVE THE SEEDS FORM THE BEST BATCH YOU HAVE 
CONSUMED. THE SEEDS SHOULD BE VIRILE, THAT IS, THEY SHOULD NOT BE GREY 
AND SHIRIVELED UP, BUT GREEN, MEATY, AND HEALTHY

APPEARING. A NICE TEST IS TO DROP THE SEEDS ON A HOT FRYING PAN. IF 
THEY "CRACK," THEY ARE PROBABLY GOOD FOR PLANTING PURPOSES.

THE SEEDS SHOULD BE SOAKED IN DISTILLED WATER OVERNIGHT BEFORE 
PLANTING. BE SURE TO PLANT IN THE GROUND WITH THE POINTY END UP. PLANT 
ABOUT 1/2" DEEP.

HEALTHY SEEDS WILL SPROUT IN ABOUT FIVE DAYS.

       SPROUTING

     THE BEST ALL AROUND SPROUTING METHOD IS PROBABLY TO MAKE A 
SPROUTING BOX (AS SOLD IN NURSERIES) WITH A SLATED BOTTOM OR USE PAPER 
CUPS WITH HOLES PUNCHED IN THE BOTTOMS. THE SPROUTING SOIL SHOULD BE A 
MIXTURE OF HUMUS, SOIL, AND FIVE SAND WITH A BIT

OF ORGANIC FERTILIAER AND WATER MIXED IN ABOUT ONE WEEK BEFORE 
PLANTING.

WHEN READY TO TRANSPLANT, YOU MUST BE SURE AND LEAVE A BALL OF SOIL 
AROUNG THE ROOTS OF EACH PLANT. THIS WHOLE BALL IS DROPPED INTO A 
BASEBALL-SIZED HOLD IN THE PERMANENT SOIL.

     IF YOU ARE GROWING/TRANSPLANTING INDOORS, YOU SHOULD USE A GREEN 
SAFE LIGHT (PURCHASED AT NURSERIES) DURING THE TRANSPLANTING 
OPERATION. IF YOU ARE TRANSPLANTING OUTDOORS, YOU SHOULD TIME IT ABOUT 
TWO HOURS BEFOR SUNSET TO AVOID DAMAGE TO THE PLANT.

ALWAYS WEAR COTTON GLOVES WHEN HANDLING THE YOUNG PLANTS.

AFTER THE PLANTS ARE SET IN THE HOLE, YOU SHOULD WATER THEM. IT IS 
ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO USE A COMMERCIAL TRANSPLANT CHEMICAL (ALSO 
PURCHASED AT NURSERIES) TO HELP THEN OVERCOME THE SHOCK.

    INDOOR GROWING

INDOOR GROWING HAS MANY ADVANTAGES, BESIDES THE APPARENT FACT THAT IT 
IS MUCH HARDER TO HAVE YOUR CROP "FOUND," YOU CAN CONTROL THE AMBIENT 
CONDITIONS JUST EXACTLY AS YOU WANT THEM AND GET A GUARANTEED "GOOD" 
PLANT.

PLANTS GROWN INDOORS WILL NOT APPEAR THE SAME AS THEIR OUTDOOR 
COUSINS. THEY WILL BE SCRAWNIER APPEARING WITH A WEAK STEMS AND MAY 
EVEN RAQUIRE YOU TO TIE THEM TO A GROWING POST TO REMAIN UPRIGHT, BUT 
THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!

IF GROWING IN A ROOM, YOU SHOULD PUT TAR PAPER ON THE FLOORS AND THEN 
BUY STERILIZED BAGS OF SOIL FORM A NURSERY. YOU WILL NEED ABOUT ONE 
CUBIC FOOT OF SOIL FOR EAVH PLANT.

THE PLANTS WILL NEED ABOUT 150 ML. OF WATER PER PLANT/PER WEEK. THEY 
WILL ALSO NEED FRESH AIR, SO THE ROOM MUST BE VENTILATED. (HOWEVER, 
THE FRESH AIR SHOULD CONTAIN NO TOBACCO SMOKE.)

     AT LEAST EIGHT HOURS OF LIGHT A DAY MUST BE PROVIDED. AS YOU 
INCREASE THE LIGHT, THE PLANTS GROW FASTER AND SHOW MORE FEMALES/LESS 
MALES. SIXTEEN HOURS OF LIGHT PER DAY SEEMS TO BE THE BEST 
COMBINATION, BEYOND THIS MAKES LITTLE OR NO APPRECIABLE DIF

ERENCE IN THE PLANT QUALITY. ANOTHER IDEA IS TO INTERRUPT THE NIGHT 
CYCLE WITH ABOUT ONE HOUR OF LIGHT. THIS GIVES YOU MORE FEMALES.

THE WALLS OF YOUR GROWING ROOM SHOULD BE PAINTED WHITE OR COVERED WITH 
ALUMINUM FOIL TO REFLECT THE LIGHT.

    THE LIGHTS THEMSELVES CAN BE EITHER BULBS OF FLUORESCENT. FIGURE 
ABOUT 75 WATTS PER PLANT OR ONE PLANT PER TWO FEET OF FLOURESENT TUBE. 
THE FLUORESCENTS ARE THE BEST, BUT DO NOT USE "COOL WHITE" TYPES. THE 
LIGHT SOURCES SHOULD BE AN AVERAGE OF TWENT

INCHES FROM THE PLANT AND NEVER CLOSER THAN 14 INCHES. THEY MAY BE 
MOUNTED ON A RACK AND MOVED EVERY FEW DAYS AS THE PLANTS GROW.

THE VERY BEST LIGHT SOURCES ARE THOSE MADE BY SYLVANIA AND OTHERS 
ESPECIALLY FOR GROWING PLANTS (SUCH AS THE "GRO LUX" TYPES).

  HARVESTING AND DRYING

THE MALE PLANTS WILL BE TALLER AND HAVE ABOUT FIVE GREEN OR YELLOW 
SEPALS, WHICH WILL SPLIT OPEN TO FERTILIZE THE FEMALE PLANT WITH 
POLLEN.

THE FEMALE PLANT IS SHORTER AND HAS A SMALL PISTILLATE FLOWER, WHICH 
REALLY DOESN'T LOOK LIKE A FLOWER AT ALL BUT RATHER A SMALL BUNCH OF 
LEAVES IN A CLUSTER.

IF YOU DON'T WANT ANY SEEDS, JUST GOOD DOPE, YOU SHOULD PICK THE MALES 
BEFORE THEY SHED THEIR POLLEN AS THE FEMALE WILL USE SOME OF HER RESIN 
TO MAKE THE SEEDS.

AFTER ANOTHER THREE TO FIVE WEEKS, AFTER THE MALES ARE GONE, THE 
FEMALES WILL BEGIN TO WITHER AND DIE (FROM LONELINESS?), THIS IS THE 
TIME TO PICK.

IN SOME NEFARIOUS MIDDLE EASTREN COUNTRIES, FARMERS REPORTEDLY PUT 
THEIR BEEHIVES NEXT TO FIELS OF MARIJUANA. THE LITTLE DEVILS COLLECT 
THE GRASS POLLEN FOR THEIR HONEY, WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO CONTAIN A FAIR 
DOSAGE OF THC.

THE HONEY IS THEN ENJOYED BY CONVENTIONAL METHODS OR MADE INTO 
AMBROSIA.

IF YOU WANT SEEDS - LET THE MALES SHED HIS POLLEN THEN PICK HIM. LET 
THE FEMALE GO ANOTHER MONTH AND PICK HER.

TO CURE THE PLANTS, THEY MUST BE DRIED. ON LARGE CROPS, THIS IS 
ACCOMPLISHED BY CONSTRUCTING A DRYING BOX OR DRYING ROOM.

YOU MUST HAVE A HEAT SOURCE (SUCH AS AN ELECTRIC HEATER) WHICH WILL 
MAKE THE BOX/ROOM EACH 130 DEGREES. THE BOX/ROOM MUST BE VENTILATED TO 
CARRY OFF THE WATER-VAPOR-LADEN AIR AND REPLACE IT WITH FRESH.

A GOOD BOX CAN BE CONSTRUCTED FROM AN ORANGE CRATE WITH FIBERGLASS 
INSULATED WALLS, VENTS IN THE TOPS, AND SCREEN SHELVES TO HOLD THE 
LEAVES. THERE MUST BE A BAFFLE BETWEEN THE LEAVES AND THE HEAT SOURCE.

     A QUICK CURE FOR SMALLER AMOUNTS IS TO: CUT THE PLANT AT THE SOIL 
LEVEL AND WRAP IT IN A CLOTH SO AS NOT TO LOOSE ANY LEAVS. TAKE OUT 
ANY SEEDS BY HAND AND STORE. PLACE ALL THE LEAVES ON A COOKIE SHEET OR 
ALUMINUM FOIL AND PUT THEM IN THE MIDDLE SHE

D OF THE OVEN, WHICH IS SET ON "BROIL." IN A FEW SECONDS, THE LEAVES 
WILL SMOKE AND CURL UP, STIR THEM AROUND AND GIVE ANOTHER TEN SECONDS 
BEFORE YOU TAKE THEM OUT.

TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF

THERE ARE SEVERAL TRICKS TO INCREASE THE NUMBER OF FEMALES, OR THE THC 
CONTENT OF PLANTS:

YOU CAN MAKE THE PLANTS MATURE IN 36 DAYS IF YOU ARE IN A HURRY, BY 
CUTTING BACK ON THE LIGHT TO ABOUT 14 HOURS, BUT THE PLANTS WILL NOT 
BE AS BIG. YOU SHOULD GRADUALLY SHORTEN THE LIGHT CYCLE UNTIL YOU 
REACH FOURTEEN HOURS.

YOU CAN STOP ANY WATERING AS THE PLANTS BEGIN TO BAKE THE REAIN RISE 
TO THE FLOWERS. THIS WILL INCRESE THE RESIN A BIT.

YOU CAN USE A SUNLAMP ON THE PLANTS AS THEY BEGIN TO DEVELOP FLOWER 
STALKS.

YOU CAN SNIP OFF THE FLOWER, RIGHT AT THE SPOT WHERE IT JOINS THE 
PLANT, AND A NEW FLOWER WILL FORM IN A COUPLE OF WEEKS. THIS CAN BE 
REPEATED TWO OR THREE TIMES TO GET SEVERAL TIMES MORE FLOWERS THAN 
USUAL.

IF THE PLANTS ARE SPRAYED WITH ETHREL EARLY IN THEIR GROWING STAGE, 
THEY WILL PRODUCE ALMOST ALL FEMALE PLANTS. THIS USUALLY SPEEDS UP THE 
FLOWERING ALSO, IT MAY HAPPEN IN AS LITTLE AS TWO WEEKS.

YOU CAN EMPLOY A GROWTH CHANGER CALLED COLCHICINE. THIS IS A BIT HARD 
TO GET AND EXPENSIVE. (SHOULD BE ORDERED THROUGH A LAB OF SOME SORT 
AND COSTS ABOUT $35 A GRAM.)

     TO USE THE COLCHICINE, YOU SHOULD PREPARE YOUR PRESOAKING 
SOLUTION OF DISTILLED WATER WITH ABOUT 0.10 PER CENT COLCHICINE. THIS 
WILL CAUSE MANY OF THE SEEDS TO DIE AND NOT GERMINATE, BUT THE ONES 
THAT DO COME UP WILL BE POLYPLOID PLANTS. THIS IS THE

ACCEPTED DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SUCH STRAINS AS "GOLD" AND NORMAL GRASS, 
AND YOURS WILL DEFINITELY BE SUPERWEED.

     THE PROBLEM HERE IS THAT COLCHICINE IS A POSION IN LARGER 
QUANITIES AND BAY BE POISONOUS IN THE FIRST GENERATION OF PLANTS. BILL 
FRAKE, AUTHOR OF CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA RUNS A VERY 
COMPLETE COLCHICINE TREATMENT DOWN AND WARNS AGAINST SM

KING THE FIRST GENERATION PLANTS (ALL SUCCEEDING GENERATIONS WILL ALSO 
BE POLYPLOID) BACAUSE OF THIS POISONOUS QUALITY.

     HOWEVER, THE MEDICAL INDEX SHOWS COLCHICINE BEING HIVEN IN VERY 
SMALL QUANTITIES TO PEOPLE FOR TREATMENT IF VARIOUS AILMENTS. ALTHOUGH 
THESE QUANTITIES ARE SMALL, THEY WOULD APPEAR TO BE LARGER THAN ANY 
YOU COULD RECIVE FORM SMOAKING A SEED-TREATED
LANT.

IT WOULD BE A GOOD IDEA TO BUY A COPY OF CONNOISSEUR'S, IF YOU ARE 
PLANNING TO ATTEMPT THIS, AND READ MR. DRAKE'S COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS.

     ANOTHER STILL-EXPERIMENTAL PROCESS TO INCREASE THE RESIN IT TO 
PINCH OFF THE LEAF TIPS AS SOON AS THEY APPEAR FROM THE TIME THE PLANT 
IS IN THE SEEDLING STAGE ON THROUGH ITS ENTIRE LIFE-SPAN. THIS 
PRODUCES A DISTORTED, WRECKED-LOOKING PLANT WHICH WORLD BE VERY DIFFICULY
TO RECOGNIZE AS MARIJUANA. OF COURSE, THERE IS LESS SUBSTANCE TO THIS
PLANT, BUT SUCH WRECKED CREATURES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO PRODUVE SO MUCH
RESIN THAT IS CRYSTALLIZES A STRONG HASH ALL OVER THE SURFACE OF THE
PLANT - MIGHT BE WISE TO TRY IT ON A PLANT OR TWO AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.

  PLANT PROBLEM CHART

ALWAYS CHECK THE OVERALL ENVIROMENTAL CONDITIONS PRIOR TO PASSING 
JUDGMENT - SOIL AROUNG 7 PH OR SLIGHTLY LESS - PLENTY OF WATER, LIGHT, 
FRESH AIR, LOOSE SOIL, NO WATER STANDING IN POOLS.

        SYMPTOM                       PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE

LARGER LEAVES TURNING YELLOW -      NITROGEN DIFICIENCY - ADD
SMALLER LEAVES STILL GREEN.         NITRATE OF SODA OR
                                    ORGANIC FERTILIZER.

OLDER LEAVES WILL CURL AT EDGES,    PHOSPHORSUS DIFICIENCY -
TURN DARK, POSSIBALY WITH A PURPLE  ADD COMMERCIAL PHOSPHATE.
CAST.

MATURE LEAVES DEVELOP A YELLOWISH   MAGNESIUM DIFICIENCY -
CAST TO LEAST VEINAL AREAS.         ADD COMMERCIAL FERTILIZER
                                    WITH A MAGNESIUM CONTENT.

MATURE LEAVES TURN YELLOW AND THEN  POTASSIUM DIFICIENCY -
BECOME SPOTTED WITH EDGE AREAS      ADD MURIATE OF POTASH.
TURNING DARK GREY.

CRACKED STEMS, NO HEALTHY SUPPORT   BORON DIFICIENCY - ADD
TISSUE.                             ANY PLANT FOOD CONTAINING
                                    BORON.

SMALL WRINKLED LEAVES WITH          ZOIC DIFICIENCY - ADD
YELLOISH VEIN SYSTEMS.             COMMERCIAL PLANT FOOD
                                    CONTAINING ZINC.

YOUNG LEAVES BECOME DEFORMED,       MOLYBEDUM DIFICIENCY -
POSSIBALY YELLOWING.                USE ANY PLANT FOOD WITH A
                                    BIT OF MOLYDBENUM IN IT.


  EXTRA SECTION:

  BAD WEED/GOOD WEED

CAN YOU TURN BAD WEED INTO GOOD WEED? SURPRISINGLY ENOUGH, THE ANSWER 
TO THIS OFT-ASKED INQUIRY IS, YES!

     LIKE MOST OTHER THINGS IN LIFE, THE AMOUNT STANT, SUPERMARKET 
PRODUCTS WHICH YOU CAN SPRAY ON KANSAS CATNIP AND HAVE WONDERWEED, BUT 
THERE ARE A NUMBER OF SIMPLIFIED, INEXPENSIVE PROCESSES (GEE, MR. WIZARD!) 
THICH WILL ENHANCE MEDIOCRE GRASS SOMEWHAT, ANT THERE ARE A COUPLE OF 
FAIRLY INVOLVED PROCESSES WHICH WILL DO UP EVEN ALMOST-PARSLEY WEED 
INTO SOMETHING WORTH WRITING HOME ABOUT.

EASES:

1. PLACE THE DOPE IN A CONTAINER WHICH ALLOWS AIR TO ENTER IN A 
RESTRICTED FASHION (SUCH AS A CAN WITH NAIL HOLES PUNCHED IN ITS LID) 
AND ADD A BUNCH OF DRY ICE, AND THE PLACE THE WHOLD SHEBANG IN THE 
FREEZER FOR A FEW DAYS.

THIS PROCESS WILL ADD A CERTAIN AMOUNT OF POTENCY TO THE PRODUCT, 
HOWEVER, THIS ONLY WORKS WITH DRY ICE, IF YOU USE NORMAL, EVERYDAY 
FREEZER ICE, YOU WILL END UP WITH A SOGGY MESS...

     2. TAKE A QUANTITY OF GRASS AND DAMPEN IT, PLACE IN A BAGGIE OR 
ANOTHER SOCIALLY ACCEPTABLE CONTAINER, AND STORE IT IN A DARK, DAMPISH 
PLACE FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS (BURYING IT ALSO SEEMS TO WORK). THE GRASS 
WILL DEVELOP A MOLD WHICH TASTES A BIT HARSH, A AND BURNS A TINY BIT
FUNNY, BUT DOES INCREASE THE POTENCY.

     3. EXPOSE THE GRASS TO THE HIGH INTENSITY LIGHT OF A SUNLAMP FOR 
A FULL DAY OR SO. PERSONALLY, I DON'T FEEL THAT THIS IS WORTH THE 
EFFORT, BUT IF YOU JUST SPENT $400 OF YOUR FRIEND'S MONEY FOR THIS 
BRICK OF SUPER-COLOMBIAN, RIGHT-FROM-THE-PRESIDENT'

-PERSONAL-STASH, AND IT TURNS OUT TO BE MISSOURI WEED, AND YOU'RE 
PACKING YOUR BAGS TO LEAVE TOWN BEFORE THE PEOPLE ARRIVE FOR THEIR 
SHARES, WELL, YOU MIGHT AT LEAST TRY IT. CAN'T HURT.

4. TAKE THE UNDISIRABLE PORTIONS OF OUR STASH (STEMS, SEEDS, WEAK 
WEED, WORMS, ETC.) AND PLACE THEM IN A COVERED POT, WITH ENOUGH 
RUBBING ALCHOLE TO COVER EVERYTHING.

NOW CAREFULLY BOIL THE MIXTURE ON AN ELECTRIC STOVE OR LAB BURNER. DO 
NOT USE GAS - THE ALCHOL IS TOO FLAMMABLE. AFTER 45 MINUTES OF HEAT, 
ROMOVE THE POT AND STRAIN THE SOLIDS OUT, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.

NOW, REPEAT THE PROCESS WITH THE SAME RESIDUALS, BUT FRESH ALCHOL. 
WHEN THE SECOND BOIL IS OVER, REMOVE THE SOLIDS AGAIN, COMBINT THE TWO 
QUANTITIES OF ALCOHOL AND REBOIL UNTIL YOU HAVE A SYRUPY MIXTURE.

NOW, THIS SYRUPY MIXTURE WILL CONTAIN MUCH OF THE THC FORMERLY HIDDEN 
IN THE STEMS AND SUCH. ONE SIMPLY TAKES THIS SYRUP THE THROUGHLY 
COMDINES IT WITH THE GRASS THAT ONE WISHES TO IMPROVE UPON.

     FOR MORE COMPLICATED PRECEDURES, SEE THE HASH/GRASS OIL SECTION 
SOON TO COME OUT...


SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT

MARYGIN:

MARYGIN IS AN ANAGRAM OF THE WORDS MARIJUANA AND GIN, AS IN ELI 
WHITENY. IT IS A PLASTIC TUMBLER WHICH ACTS MUCH LIKE A COMMERCIAL 
COTTIN GIN.

ONE TAKES ABOUT ONE OUNCE OF AN HARB AND BREAKS IT UP. THIS IS THEN 
PLACED IN THE MARYGIN AND THE PROTUDING KNOD IS ROATATED. THIS ACTION 
TURNS THE INTERNAL WHEEL, WHICH SEPARATES THE GRASS FROM THE DEBRIS 
(SEEDS, STEMS).

IT DOES NOT PULBERIZE THE GRASS AS SCREENS HAVE A HABIT OF DOING AND 
IS EASILY WASHABLE.

MARYGIN IS AVAILABLE FROM:

P.O. BOX 5827
TUSCON, ARIZONA 85703
     $5.00

GRASS

EDMUND SCIENTIFIC COMPANY
555 EDSCORP BUILDING
BARRINGTON, NEW JERSY 08007
     FREE CATALOG

IS A WONDER OF GOOD THINGS FOR THE POTENTIAL GRASS GROWER. THEY HAVE 
AN ELECTRIC THERMOSTAT GREENHOUSE FOR STARTING PLANTS FOR A MERE 
$14.95.

SOIL TEST KITS FOR PH - $2.40
AL TEST - $9.95
SOIL THERMOMETER - $2.75

LIGHTS WHICH APPROZIMATE THE TRUE COLOR BALANCE OF THE SUN AND ARE 
PROBABLY THE MOST BENEFICIAL TYPES AVAILABLE: 40 WATT, 48 INCH - 4 FOR 
$15.75.

INDOOR SUN BULD, 75 OR 150 WATT - $5.75.

AND, THEY HAVE A NATURAL GROWTH REGUALTOR FOR PLANTS (GIBBERELLIN) 
WHICH CAN CHANGE HEIGHT, SPEED GROWTH, AND MATURITY, PROMOTE 
BLOSSOMING, ETC. EACH PLANT REACTS DIFFERENTLY TO TREATMENT WITH 
GIBBERELLIN...THERE'S NO FUN LIKE EXPERIMENTING - $2.00

       SUGGESTED READING

THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, BILL DRAKE
STRAIGHT ARROW PUBLISHING - $3.50
625 THIRD STREET
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA

FLASH
P.O.BOX 16098
SAN FRANSICSO, CALIFORNIA 94116

     STOCKS A SERIES OF PAMPHLETS ON GRASS, DOPE MANUFACTURE, COOKING. 
INCLUDES THE MARY JANE SUPERWEED SERIES.


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