444 lines
20 KiB
Plaintext
444 lines
20 KiB
Plaintext
How to grow Marijuana
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MARIJUANA
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Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section
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of the plant was (has been replaced by synthetics) used to make rope.
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The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is
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used by just about everyone to get HIGH.
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Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce this
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"high," but thay can also be eaten. The axtive ingredient in marijuana
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resin is THC (tetahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 per
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cent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD dope).
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Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in
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Mexice, Vietnam, Africa, Nepal, India, South America, etc.,etc. The
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marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the
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Uniited States.
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It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets
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in America is homegrown. The next largest bunch comes actoss the
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borders from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from Panama,
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occasionally South America, and occasinally, Africa.
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Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from
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the flowering tops of the plant and lumped together. Ganja is the
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ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any
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sort of marijuana in Jamaica.)
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Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light,
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air or heat. It should always be stored in cool places.
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Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws
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of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics
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would never be useful). A series of large border busts, a short growing
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season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of marijuana
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up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom
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fall below last year's level.
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Each year a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs
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low, and next year's crop is not up yet. Prices usually rase about
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20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."
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Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers
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to turn to harder drugs instead. For this reason, no grass control
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program can ever be beneficial or "successful."
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GROW IT!
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There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's:
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Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the
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subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly
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vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
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OUTDOORS
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Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the
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North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does
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not raise above 75 degrees.
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The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and
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should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the
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last frost of the year.
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Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method
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over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much
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attention when in its natural habitat.
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Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun-
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tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from
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law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your
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weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must
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also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
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There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you
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should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box
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(see the indoor section) and then transplant. The other theory is that
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you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will
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come up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to
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kill some of the seedlings halfway through.
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The soil should be preprepared for the little devils by turning it
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over a couple of times and adding about one cup of hydrated lime per
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square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water
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soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several
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times and left to sit about one week.
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The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too
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greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants.
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The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too
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much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will
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rot the root system.
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Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide
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some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed.
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It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as
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people tend to notice patterns.
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GENERAL GROWING INFO
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Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male
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is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be
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plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.
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Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on
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a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex
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ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.
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The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live
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another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as
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much as males when they are mature.
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Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break
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apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test
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for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the
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soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't,
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well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the
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plants to grow well.
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SEEDS
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To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting
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point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The
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seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled
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up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the
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seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for
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planting purposes.
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The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting.
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BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2"
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deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.
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SPROUTING
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The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box
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(as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes
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punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus,
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soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed
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in about one week before planting.
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When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil
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around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a
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baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.
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If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green
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safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation.
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If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two
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hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton
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gloves when handling the young plants.
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After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also
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a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at
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nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
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INDOOR GROWING
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Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it
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is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient
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conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"
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plant.
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Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins.
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They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require
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you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE
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AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!
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If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then
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buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one
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cubic foot of soil for each plant.
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The plants will need about 150ml of water per plant/per week. They
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will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however,
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the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
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At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase
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the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males.
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Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond
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this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.
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Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of
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light. This gives you more females.
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The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with
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aluminum foil to reflect the light.
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The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about
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75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube.
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The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The
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light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the
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plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be mounted on a rack
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and moved every few days as the plants grow.
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The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others
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especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
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HARVESTING AND DRYING
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The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals,
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which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen.
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The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which
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really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of
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leaves in a cluster.
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If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males
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before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin
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to make the seeds.
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After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females
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will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
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In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their
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beehives next to fiels of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass
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pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage
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of THC.
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The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia.
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If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let
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the female go another month and pick her.
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To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is
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accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room.
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You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make
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the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated
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to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh.
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A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass
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insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves.
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There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.
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A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level
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and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds
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by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum
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foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil."
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In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and
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give another ten seconds before you take them out.
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TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
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There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC
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content of plants:
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You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting
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back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big.
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You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen
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hours.
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You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to
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the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit.
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You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.
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You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant,
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and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks.
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This can be repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers
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than usual.
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If the plants are sprayed with Ethrel early in their growing stage, they
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will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the flowering
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also, it may happen in as little as two weeks.
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You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This is a bit hard to
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get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and
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costs about $35 a gram.)
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To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of
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distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause
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many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come
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up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between
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such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY
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be superweed.
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The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and
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may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author
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of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine
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treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants
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(all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this
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poisonous quality.
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However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small
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quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these
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quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could
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recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant.
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It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning
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to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
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Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off
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the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the
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seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted,
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wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as
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marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such
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wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it
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crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might
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be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
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PLANT PROBLEM CHART
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Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing
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judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light,
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fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.
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SYMPTOM PROBABLY PROBLEM/CURE
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~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Larger leaves turning yellow - Nitrogen dificiency - add
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smaller leaves still green. nitrate of soda or
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organic fertilizer.
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Older leaves will curl at edges, Phosphorsus dificiency -
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turn dark, possibaly with a purple add commercial phosphate.
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cast.
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Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium dificiency -
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cast to least veinal areas. add commercial fertilizer
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with a magnesium content.
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Mature leaves turn yellow and then Potassium dificiency -
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become spotted with edge areas add muriate of potash.
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turning dark grey.
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Cracked stems, no healthy support Boron dificiency - add
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tissue. any plant food containing
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boron.
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Small wrinkled leaves with Zinc dificiency - add
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yelloish vein systems. commercial plant food
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containing zinc.
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Young leaves become deformed, Molybedum dificiency -
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possibaly yellowing. use any plant food with a
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bit of molydbenum in it.
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BAD WEED/GOOD WEED
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Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer
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to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!
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Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going
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to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.
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There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas
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catnip and have wonderweed, but there are a number of simplified,
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inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr. Wizard!) thich will enhance mediocre
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grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes
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which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing
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home about.
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EASES
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1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted
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fashion (such as a can with nail holes punched in its lid) and add a
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bunch of dry ice, and the place the whold shebang in the freezer for a
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few days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product,
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however, this only works with dry ice, if you use normal, everyday
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freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...
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2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another
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socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place
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for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will
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develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny,
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but does increase the potency.
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3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full
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day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but
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if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of
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super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash,
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and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to
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leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might
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at least try it. Can't hurt.
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4. Take the undisirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed,
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worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing
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alchol to cover everything.
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Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO
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NOT USE GAS - the alchol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat,
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remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.
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Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alchol.
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When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two
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quantities of alcohol and reboil until you have a syrupy mixture.
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Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden
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in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the throughly
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combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.
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SPECIAL SECTION ON RELATED SUBJECT MARYGIN:
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Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney.
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It is a plastic tumbler which acts much like a commercial cottin gin.
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One takes about one ounce of an harb and breaks it up. This is then placed
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in the Marygin and the protuding knod is roatated. This action turns
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the internal wheel, which separates the grass from the debris (seeds,
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stems).
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It does not pulberize the grass as screens have a habit of doing and is
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easily washable. Marygin is available from:
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GRASS
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P.O. Box 5827
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Tuscon, Arizona 85703
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$5.00
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Edmund Scientific Company
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555 Edscorp Building
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Barrington, New Jersy 08007
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Free Catalog is a wonder of good things for the potential grass
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grower. They have an electric thermostat greenhouse for starting
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plants for a mere $14.95.
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Soil test kits for PH - $2.40
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Al test - $9.95
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Soil thermometer - $2.75
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Lights which approzimate the true color balance of the sun and are
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probably the most beneficial types available: 40 watt, 48 inch - 4 for
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$15.75.
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Indoor sun bulb, 75 or 150 watt - $5.75.
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And, they have a natural growth regualtor for plants (Gibberellin) which
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can change height, speed growth, and maturity, promote blossoming,
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etc. Each plant reacts differently to treatment with Gibberellin...there's
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no fun like experimenting - $2.00
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SUGGESTED READING
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THE CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA, Bill Drake
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Straight Arrow Publishing - $3.50
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625 Third Street
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San Francisco, California
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FLASH
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P.O.Box 16098
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San Fransicso, California 94116
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Stocks a series of pamphlets on grass, dope manufacture, cooking.
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Includes the Mary Jane Superweed series.
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