224 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
224 lines
11 KiB
Plaintext
From: mrosing@igc.org
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Date: 21 Sep 91 16:36:00 GMT
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Newsgroups: alt.drugs
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Subject: Hemp Growers Guide (and comments)
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[some comments deleted for brevity -cak]
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Gorrila Growers Guide
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(for beginners)
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The purpose of this guide is to help beginners supply
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themselves with hemp using standard items from hardware stores. If
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enough people grow their own, trafficking in hemp will be eliminated
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and quality will greatly improve.
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To start you need a small space - a closet roughly
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60x150x200 cm (that's 2x5x6 ft for the archaic). Cover the walls,
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ceiling and doors with aluminized mylar (if you can find it) or
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aluminum foil, shiny side out. This saves light for the plants,
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ideally, the only light absorber in the room is plant. (Mirror tiles
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are an option for the really rich).
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The next step is to put lights in the room. Fluorescents
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are the cheapest and most readily available. Shop light holders will
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hold two 120 cm (4 ft) bulbs. Each bulb is rated at 40 watts. 5 sets
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of shop lights will give 5 or 6 plants enough light for good results.
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That's a total of 10 bulbs or 400 watts. The type of bulb does not
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really matter, wide-spectrum grow bulbs if you can get them are great
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but regular shop lights work fine.
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If the closet is already warm, some ventilation is required.
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Space under the door and an equivelent 10 square cm (~4 sq in) hole
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out the top of the closet is adequate. Alternatively, you can leave
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the door open a couple of cm and put aluminum foil along the wall near
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the door to prevent too much light leak. Do not let the room
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temperature get over 35 C (95 F) as this hurts growth. Optimal
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temperature is 27-30 C (80-86 F). Less than 21 C (70 F) is too cold
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for good growth.
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Vertically mounting the lights is best as this provides
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light to the entire plant. Putting one in each corner and one over
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head will also work well. Use bricks or 2x4's to raise the lamps off
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the floor, or use the hangers to hold the shop lights up on the wall.
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If you know how, buy sockets, boxes and 3 wire cable (14
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gauge or better) and build an extension cord for all the shop lights.
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The boxes can also sit on the platforms holding the lights up or can
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be tied up above the floor. If you have a water accident you don't
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want your electrical components to be involved - it could kill you.
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If you don't know how and don't have any friends who do then buy the 3
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ft extension cords with 3 sockets on the end. Use one socket to plug
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in the shop light and another for the next extension cord.
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The reason for doing all this is for the timer you'll need
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to put on the lights and because most shop lights only come with a 6
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inch cord. Once your room is set up it should seem BRIGHT since the
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walls are all mirrors.
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Now we come to the planting. Rockwool is the best medium
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but is not universally available. Potting soil mixed with pearlite,
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lava, sand or styrofoam in a 50% soil - 50% lava (or whatever) works
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best. Hemp grows best in sandy or loose soil, the roots need lots of
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air as well as water. For detailed instructions get a book (see High
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Times ads), but hemp is a weed which will pretty much grow anywhere
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with enough light and nutrients.
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Plant 10 to 15 seeds at a time. If you get clones you can
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start with 5 since more plants will be light starved in this small a
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space. Keep the light on 24 hours a day if possible. The first stage
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of growth is called vegetative. Water the plants twice a day during
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this time. About 12 hours apart is best but a few hours either way is
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ok. Feed the plants once a week with a 15-10-10 plant food or a
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standard "Miracle-gro" product from any K-mart. Again, to do better,
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get a book.
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When the plants are about 60 cm (2 ft) high you can go into
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the flowering stage. To do this set a timer for 12 hours of light and
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12 of dark. If you've left the door open for ventilation, close it
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during the dark period. The darker the plants are the better. Reduce
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the amount of water by half, watering near the time the lights come
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on. After a few weeks the plants will begin to differentiate. The
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males produce "balls" with pollen and the females produce feelers at
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nodal points (stems and branches).
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For the best sinsemilla you want to cut out the males before
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they release pollen. If you want more seeds this is not necessary.
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Reduce the number of plants down to the best 5 females. Use the rest
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in brownies or cookies. The leaf has too much vegetable matter to
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smoke but will work fine for eating.
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The entire cycle takes about 4 months. Usually 4 to 6 weeks
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in vegetative stage, 2 weeks to differentiate and another 8 weeks to
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flower. Harvest when the large sun leaves begin to yellow and drop
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off.
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To harvest, cut all the leaf off and let dry on a flat
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surface. Trim the leaf down near the buds and hang the buds to dry
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for about a week. This part can get fairly stinky so you may need
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ventilation to the outside or a room deoderizer. For faster results
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use a microwave oven.
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Get a corn cob pipe from your local *drug* store and enjoy
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your efforts. This method with get you 2 - 4 lids of pure sinse. In
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the same space a pro can get four times as much but who cares? This
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bud's for you!
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*************************************************************************
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Patience, persistance, truth, reality: mgr@anhep2.hep.anl.gov
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Dr. mike UUCP: uunet!pyramid!cdp!mrosing
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bitnet: cdp!mrosing%labrea@stanford
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=============================================================================
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From: an18826@anon.penet.fi
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Newsgroups: alt.drugs
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Subject: Here is some good advice for marijuana growers
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Message-ID: <020302Z24081993@anon.penet.fi>
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Date: 24 Aug 93 06:58:00 GMT
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Someone wanted me to forward this to the net anonymously... Don't know why
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they didn't do it themselves...
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I agree with the article -- growing marijuana is not only
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a great hobby, but a terrific way to avoid the expense and
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iffy quality of black-market weed. You don't know what
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shit they spray on Mexican dope plantations, and you probably
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don't WANT to know!
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Anyway, I had a few comments to add to the gorilla guide,
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to make some corrections and/or expansions on instructions
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which might not be too clear to the beginner.
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From: Mike Rosing <mrosing@igc.apc.org>
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>To start you need a small space - a closet roughly 60x150x200 cm (that's
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>2x5x6 ft for the archaic). Cover the walls, ceiling and doors with
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>aluminized mylar (if you can find it) or aluminum foil, shiny side out.
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>This saves light for the plants, ideally, the only light absorber in the
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>room is plant. (Mirror tiles are an option for the really rich).
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Actually, flat white paint works almost as well as these
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high-tech methods. Use something cheap: put your money
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into things like lights that are really important.
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>The next step is to put lights in the room. Fluorescents are the cheapest
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>and most readily available.
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Not to mention the coolest. This is the real advantage
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of fluorescents for the closet grower. For the professional,
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expensive metal halide and high-pressure sodium lights give
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more light for less electricity. But these lights are
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overkill, and too damn hot, for the amateur closet grower.
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> Water the plants twice a day during this time [vegetative growth]. About
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> 12 hours apart is best but a few hours either way is ok. Feed the plants
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> once a week with a 15-10-10 plant food or a standard "Miracle-gro" product
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> from any local discount store. Again, to do better, get a book.
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You probably don't need to water quite this often, and you
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can probably get away with feeding more often than once
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a week. I water once a day or once every other day, feeding
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with every or every other watering. The key is to use a
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high-nitrogen plant food during vegetative growth, and a
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low-nitrogen plant food during flowering.
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> when the plants are about 60 cm (2 ft) high you can go into the flowering
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> stage. To do this set a timer for 12 hours of light and 12 of dark. If
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> you've left the door open for ventilation, close it during the dark
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> period. The darker the plants are the better. After a few weeks the plants
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> will begin to differentiate. The males produce "balls" with pollen and the
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> females produce feelers at nodal points (stems and branches).
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The plants will stop lengthening almost entirely shortly
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after you shorten the light cycle (within a week or two),
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so my advice is not to cut the lights until the plants
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are just about as tall as you want them to get. It's hard
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for the beginner to tell male and female pre-flowers apart
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at first. The "feelers" discussed above look like two tiny
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white hairs.
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Note that things should be dark through the entire dark
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cycle. Turning on the lights even for a moment can prove
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to be too much of an interruption. (I don't know this
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from personal experience, but I've seen in repeated in
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enough books/articles on the subject to consider it
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good advice).
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> For the best sinsemilla you want to cut out the males before they release
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> pollen. If you want more seeds this is not necessary.
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Most of the time, marijuana separates into male plants
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and female plants. Sometimes, though, you end up with
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hermaphrodites. Most growers seem to have an antagonistic
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relationship with hermaphrodites, but not me. I think
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they're wonderful. Here's why. When I have a hermaphrodite
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female, and it pollenates itself, all of the seeds from
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that pollenation are guaranteed to be female. A batch of
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female seeds is the best thing you can ask for as a grower.
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> The entire cycle takes about 4 months. Usually 4 to 6 weeks in vegetative
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> stage, 2 weeks to differentiate and another 8 weeks to flower. Harvest when
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> the large sun leaves begin to yellow and drop off.
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Vegetative growth will be longer if you grow your plants
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larger than two feet tall. The large sun leaves may start
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to yellow and drop off even before you start to flower
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the plant, so this isn't the best indication. When the
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hairs on the female plants are mostly dried up (with wet
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white or red hairs distinctly in the minority) it's about
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time to harvest. You don't want to harvest too early, or
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you'll miss out on the most flower growth and most THC
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production.
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But enough of this... Go buy a book. "Marijuana Growers
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Insiders Guide" is very good, and available from many mail-
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order outlets (see High Times) and even bookstores.
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