3687 lines
191 KiB
Plaintext
3687 lines
191 KiB
Plaintext
:About the Book
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Please send me any submissions/comments/insane ideas/suggestions. This book
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is still undergoing work (and seeking a hardcopy publisher) and currently
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needs:
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1. Illustrations (I have a few in B&W, but need assistance)
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2. An 'introduction to basic chemistry concepts' section
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3. A couple case studies- please make suggestions!
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World Trade Center Bombing
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The Unabomb case(s)
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Major professional pyrotechnical mishaps.
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I will pay a share of any profits for professional-quality illustrations!
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:Read me first
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AUTHOR: David Richards (dr@ripco.com)
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TITLE: The Big Book Of Mischief
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EDITION:Interim release (1.5) from DTP file
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RESTRICTIONS: This file may be freely redistributed in electronic form
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with these conditions:
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It may not be excerpted or modified in ANY WAY other than
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character conversion for different computer systems.
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NO FEE MAY BE CHARGED FOR DOWNLOADING THIS FILE.
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THIS FILE MAY NOT BE DISTRIBUTED IN PRINTED FORM. Users are
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permitted to make 1-3 copies for personal use.
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THE AUTHOR RESERVES ALL RIGHTS TO THIS PUBLICATION, INCLUDING
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THE RIGHT TO PRINTED PUBLICATION, DISTRIBUTION RIGHTS TO THIS
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AND ALL FUTURE EDITIONS, AND ALL OTHER RIGHTS AS DETAILED BY
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INTERNATIONAL COPYRIGHT LAW.
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If you encounter this book being distributed in printed or
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electronic form, in whole or in part, in violation of the copyright, please
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send electronic mail to the address given below.
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:TECHNICAL NOTES
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This is an interim release, it is NOT anywhere near complete. This
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file was generated from a desktop publishing program on an MS-DOS
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machine and therefor may include some special characters which will
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not be reproduced accurately on other machines, and which may be
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corrupted in transmission. This also means that the text is a
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low-quality ASCII representation of the original text.
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HOW TO CONTACT THE AUTHOR, AND/OR GET THE BOOK VIA ELECTRONIC MAIL:
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Suggestions are welcome, as are submissions, complaints, and just about
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anything other than lawsuits and other non-productive mail.
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Internet mail can be sent to dr@ripco.com
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A copy of this file (in four parts of around 50K each) will be sent on
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request. A print version may be available in the future.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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:Credits and Disclaimers
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This book is dedicated to Ben, who made it possible, to Arthur, who helped
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keep it going, and to all the amateur pyrotechnicians who have lost their
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lives, senses, and limbs in the search for knowledge.
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The processes and techniques herein should
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not be carried out under any circumstances!!
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On the advice of my lawyer,I hereby state that I assume no responsibilities
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for any use of the information presented in this book. The intention of
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this book is to demonstrate the many techniques and methods used by persons
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in this and other countries to produce a number of conceivably hazardous
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devices. None of the statements herein should be taken to indicate the
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opinions or actions of the author. The techniques described here may be
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found in public libraries and all the information given is available from
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public sources. Any loss of life, property, or other perceived loss, injury
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or harm is the sole responsibility of the purchaser.
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Any instructions, formulas, and other statements herein are for
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informational purposes only.Although most of the procedures can be
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accomplished with minimal preparation and from easily available supplies,
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this is a work of fiction and no assumption should be made about the
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accuracy or safety of any of the procedures. This book is void where
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prohibited, and shall not be sold to any person who is ineligible to
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receive it. If you are under the age of 18, a convicted felon, mentally
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retarded, or a member of an organization that has as its stated or unstated
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goals the overthrow of the legitimate government of the United States of
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America, you are required to turn yourself in to the nearest officer of the
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law without delay.
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RELEASE 1.5
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COPYRIGHT 1993
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ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
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:Table of Contents
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Table of Contents
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SAFETY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
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Basic Safety Rules. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
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How To Mix Dry Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
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BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
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Propellants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
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Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
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PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
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EXPLOSIVE FORMULAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
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Explosive Theory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
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Impact Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
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Low Order Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
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High Order Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
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Other Reactions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
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COMPRESSED GAS BOMBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
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Bottled Gas Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
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Dry Ice Bombs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
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USING EXPLOSIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
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Ignition Devices. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
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Impact Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
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Electrical Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
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Electro-mechanical Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
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Delays. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
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EXPLOSIVE CASINGS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
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Paper Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
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Metal Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
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Primed Explosive Casings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
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Glass Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
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Plastic Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
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ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
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Tube Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
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Atomized Particle Explosions. . . . . . . . . . . . 57
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SPECIAL AMMUNITION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
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Primitive Weapons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
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Firearms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
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Compressed Air/Gas Weapons. . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
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ROCKETS AND CANNONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
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Rockets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
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Cannon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
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VISUAL PYROTECHNICS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
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Smoke Bombs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
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Colored Flames. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
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Fireworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
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MORE INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
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HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
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USEFUL CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
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FUEL-OXIDIZER MIXTURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
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USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
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:SAFETY
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Safety is an important concern in many activities, but it is even more
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important when working with explosives and related compounds. If you have
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an accident with a power tool you can permanently maim or kill yourself. An
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automobile accident can not only kill yourself, but a dozen or more others
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who have the bad luck to be on the same road as you. When an airplane
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crashes, it often kills not only the passengers on board, but anybody who
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happens to have lived near the crash site. An accidental explosion can be
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much destructive than any of these. Any accident involving explosives is
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likely to be fatal, and a serious accident can, under some circumstances
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circumstances, kill hundreds of people.
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There are no such things as truly "safe" explosive devices. While some
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explosives are less dangerous than others, all such compositions are, by
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their very nature, extremely hazardous.
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Basic Safety Rules
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1) Don't smoke! (don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the
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Weathermen). Avoid open flames, especially when working with flammable
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liquids or powdered metals.
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2) Grind all ingredients separately. It is alarming how friction
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sensitive some supposedly safe compositions really are. Grinding causes heat
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and possibly sparks, both of which can initiate an explosion.
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3) Start with very small quantities. Even small quantities of high
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explosives can be very dangerous. Once you have some idea of the power of
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the explosive, you can progress to larger amounts. Store high explosives
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separately from low explosives, and sensitive devices, such as blasting
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caps, should be stored well away from all flammable or explosive material.
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4) Allow for a 20% margin of error. Never let your safety depend on
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the expected results. Just because the average burning rate of a fuse is 30
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secs/foot, don't depend on the 6 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to
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take exactly 15 seconds.
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5) Never underestimate the range of your shrapnel. The cap from a
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pipe bomb can often travel a block or more at high velocities before coming
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to rest- If you have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can
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kill you.
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6) At the least, take the author's precautions. When mixing sensitive
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compounds (such as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity.
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Work in an area with moderate humidity, good ventilation, and watch out for
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sources of sparks and flame, which can ignite particles suspended in the
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air. Always follow the directions given and never take shortcuts.
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7) Buy quality safety equipment, and use it at all times. Always wear
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a face shield, or at the minimum, shatterproof lab glasses. It's usually a
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good idea to wear gloves when handling corrosive chemicals, and a lab apron
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can help prevent life-threatening burns.
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How To Mix Dry Ingredients
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The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to use
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a technique perfected by small-scale fireworks manufacturers:
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1) Take a large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a
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newspaper that does not use staples)
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2) Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour
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them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet.
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3) Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the piles, allowing the
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powders to roll towards the center of the sheet.
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4) By raising one corner and then the other, rock the powders back and
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forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture
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spill from either of the loose ends.
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5) Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use it
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immediately. Use airtight containers for storage, It's best to use 35mm film
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canisters or other jars which do not have screw-on tops. If you must keep
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the mixture for long periods, place a small packet of desiccant in the
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container, and never store near heat or valuable items.
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:BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
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Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or
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more drugstores. These are two of the places that serious pyrotechnicians
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can visit to purchase potentially explosive material. All that one has to
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do is know something about the mundane uses of the substances.
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Black powder, for example, is normally used in blackpowder firearms.
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It comes in varying grades, with each different grade being a slightly
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different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of
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the gun that it is intended for; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast
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in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster
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the burn rate of the powder.
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Propellants
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There are many varieties of powder used as propellants, and many of
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these can be adapted for use in explosive devices. Propellants are usually
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selected for stability and high gas production, and can be very effective
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if used in a strong container. Some propellants, such as nitrocellulose,
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burn at a much higher rate when under pressure, while others burn at
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basically the same rate in the open and when confined.
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Black Powder
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Black powder is commonly available in four grades. The smaller, faster
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burning sizes are more difficult to find than the large, slow grades. The
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powder's burn rate is extremely important when it is to be used in
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explosives. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a
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confined environment, quick-burning powder is desired. The four common
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grades of black powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width
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(calibre) of the gun they would be used in. Generally, the fastest burning
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powder, the FFFF grade is desirable for explosives, and the larger grades
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are used as propellants.
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The FFFF grade is the fastest burning, becausethe smaller grade has
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more surface area exposed to the flame front, allowing the flame to
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propagate through the material much faster than it could if a larger sized
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powder was used. The price range of black powder is about $8.50 - $9.00 per
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pound. The price per pound is the same regardless of the grade, so you can
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save time and work by buying finer grade of powder.
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There are several problems with using black powder. It can be
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accidentally ignited by static electricity or friction, and that it has a
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tendency to absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, you should
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use a plastic or wooden spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile
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at a time, slowly apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it
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in a series of light strokes or circles. It is fine enough to use when it
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reaches the consistency of flour.
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The particle size needed is dependent on the type of device it is
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going to be used in. The size of the grains is less important in large
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devices, and in large strong casings coarse grained powder will work. Any
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adult can purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms
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in the United States.
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PYRODEX*
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Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder, and
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which can be substituted by volume for standard blackpowder. It comes in
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the many of the standard grades, but it is more expensive per pound.
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However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume
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than one pound of black powder. Pyrodex is much easier to crush to a very
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fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably safer and more
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reliable. This is because Pyrodex is less sensitive to friction and static
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electricity, and it absorbs moisture more slowly than black powder. Pyrodex
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can be crushed in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved
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in boiling water and dried in the sun.
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Rifle/Shotgun Powder
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Rifle and shotgun propellants are usually nitrocellulose based with
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additives to modify the burning rate. They will be referred to as smokeless
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powder in all future references. Smokeless powder is made by the action of
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concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose
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material, a process that is described on page 19. This material is then
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dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.
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When dealing with smokeless powder, the grain size is not nearly as
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important as that of black powder. Both large and small grained powders burn
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fairly slowly compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is
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confined, smokeless burns both hotter and produces a greater volume of gas,
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producing more pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often
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necessary for other propellants is not necessary for smokeless.
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Smokeless powder costs slightly more than black powder. In most states
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any citizen with a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are
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currently few restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now
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ID checks in many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet, however
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mail order purchases from another state are not subject to such checks. When
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purchased by mail order propellants must be shipped by a private carrier,
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since the Postal Service will not carry hazardous materials. Shipping
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charges will be high, due to Department Of Transportation regulations on
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packaging flammable and explosive materials.
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Rocket Engine Powder
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Model rocketry is an popular hobby in the United States and many other
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countries. Estes*, the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines,
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takes great pains to ensure that their engines are both safe and reliable.
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The simple design of these engines makes it very easy to extract the
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propellant powder.
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Model rocket engines contain a single large grain of propellant. This
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grain is encased in heavy cardboard tubing with a clay cap at the top and
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a clay or ceramic nozzle in the bottom. The propellant can be removed by
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slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like you would a roll of
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paper towels. When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the
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propellant grain should be removed. This can be done by either cracking it
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off with a sharp bow, or by gently prying with a plastic or brass knife.
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The engine material consists of three stages. First the large fuel stage,
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which is at the end nearest the nozzle. Above this is the delay stage, which
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may not be found in some engines. This stage burns slowly and produces a
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large amount of smoke. Last is the ejection charge, which normally would
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produce gases to push the parachute out through the top of the rocket.
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The propellant material contains an epoxy which makes it exceptionally
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hard, so it must be crushed to a fine powder before it can be used.be used.
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By double bagging the propellant in small plastic bags and gripping it in
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a pliers or small vise, the powder can be carefully crushed without
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shattering all over. This process should be repeated until there are no
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remaining chunks, after which it may be crushed in the same manner as black
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powder.
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||
Model rocket engines come in various sizes, ranging from <20>A -2T to the
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incredibly powerful D engines. The larger engines are much more expensive,
|
||
and each letter size contains about twice as much propellant as the previous
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one. The D engines come in packages of three, and contain more powder than
|
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lesser engines. These engines are also very useful without modification.
|
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Large engines can be used to create very impressive skyrockets and other
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devices.
|
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|
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Explosives
|
||
|
||
There are many commercially available materials which are either used
|
||
as explosives, or which are used to produce explosives. Materials which are
|
||
used to produce explosives are known as "precursors", and some of them are
|
||
very difficult to obtain. Chemical suppliers are not stupid, and they will
|
||
notice if a single person orders a combination of materials which can be
|
||
used to produce a common explosive. Most chemicals are available in several
|
||
grades, which vary by the purity of the chemical, and the types of
|
||
impurities present. In most cases lab grade chemicals are more than
|
||
sufficient. There are a few primitive mixtures which will work even with
|
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very impure chemicals, and a few which require technical grade materials.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate
|
||
|
||
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is used as a
|
||
commercial "safety explosive". It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
|
||
with a match, and even then will not explode under normal circumstances. It
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||
is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be
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||
explained later) as it requires a powerful shockwave to cause it act as a
|
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high explosive.
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||
Commercially, ammonium nitrate is sometimes mixed with a small amount
|
||
of nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. A versatile chemical,
|
||
ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in
|
||
most drug stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by
|
||
a second plastic bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium
|
||
nitrate, simply cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag
|
||
of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight
|
||
container. It is hygroscopic, (it tends to absorb water from the air) and
|
||
will eventually be neutralized if it is allowed to react with water, or used
|
||
in compounds containing water. Ammonium nitrate may also be found in many
|
||
fertilizers.
|
||
|
||
Flash Powder
|
||
|
||
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered aluminum or magnesium metal and
|
||
one of any number of oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks,
|
||
and should be treated with more care than black powder, and under no
|
||
circumstances should it be mixed with black powder or any other explosives.
|
||
Small quantities of flash powder can be purchased from magic shops and
|
||
theatrical suppliers in the form of two small containers, which must be
|
||
mixed before use. Commercial flash powder is not cheap but it is usually
|
||
very reliable. There are three speeds of flash powder commonly used in
|
||
magic, however only the fast flash powder can be used to create reliable
|
||
explosives.
|
||
Flash powder should always be mixed according to the method given at
|
||
the beginning of the book, and under no circumstances should it be shaken
|
||
or stored in any packaging which might carry static electricity.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
|
||
|
||
|
||
While many chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it
|
||
is sometimes possible for the home chemist to partially purify more easily
|
||
available sources of impure forms of desired chemicals.
|
||
Most liquids are diluted with water, which can be removed by
|
||
distillation. It is more difficult to purify solids, but there are a few
|
||
methods available.If the impurity is insoluble in water but the pure
|
||
chemical is, then the solid is mixed into a large quantity of warm water,
|
||
and the water (with the chemical dissolved in it) is saved. The undissolved
|
||
impurities (dregs) are discarded. When the water is boiled off it leaves a
|
||
precipitate of the desired material. If the desired chemical is not water
|
||
soluble and the impurity is, then the same basic procedure is followed, but
|
||
in this case the dregs are saved and the liquid discarded.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Nitric acid (HNO3)
|
||
|
||
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
|
||
explosives. It is often produced by the oxidation of ammonia per the
|
||
following formula:
|
||
|
||
4NH3 + 5O2 4NO + 6H2O; 2NO + O2 2NO2; 3NO2 + H2O 2HNO3 + NO
|
||
|
||
If the chemist has sodium and potassium nitrate available, they can
|
||
be used to convert the much less useful sulfuric acid. While this method can
|
||
be used to produce nitric acid, the process is extremely hazardous, and it
|
||
should not be carried out unless there is no other way to obtain nitric
|
||
acid. Do not attempt this on a larger scale without the use of remote
|
||
manipulation equipment.
|
||
|
||
Materials
|
||
|
||
potassium nitrate ice bath stirring rod
|
||
conc sulfuric acid distilled water retort
|
||
collecting flask with stopper retort (300ml) heat source
|
||
sodium nitrate mortar and pestle
|
||
|
||
1) Carefully pour 100 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into
|
||
the retort.
|
||
|
||
2) Weigh out exactly 185 grams of sodium nitrate, or 210 grams of
|
||
potassium nitrate. Crush to a fine powder in a clean, dry mortar and
|
||
pestle, then slowly add this powder to the retort of sulfuric acid. If all
|
||
of the powder does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass
|
||
rod until the powder is completely dissolved.
|
||
|
||
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and
|
||
place the collecting flask in the ice bath.
|
||
|
||
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until
|
||
liquid begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms
|
||
is nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
|
||
almost dry, or until no more nitric acid forms.
|
||
|
||
CAUTION
|
||
|
||
If the acid is heated too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as
|
||
soon as it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable
|
||
and toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above
|
||
apparatus up, and then get away from it.
|
||
|
||
Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4)
|
||
|
||
There are two common processes used to make sulfuric acid,
|
||
unfortunately neither of them is suitable for small scale production outside
|
||
of a laboratory or industrial plant. The Contact Process utilizes Sulfur
|
||
Dioxide (SO2), an intensely irritating gas.
|
||
|
||
2SO2 + H2O 2SO3; SO3 + H2O H2SO4
|
||
|
||
The Chamber Process uses nitric oxide and nitrogen dioxide. On contact
|
||
with air, nitric oxide forms nitrogen dioxide, a deadly reddish brown gas.
|
||
The reaction used for production is as follows:
|
||
|
||
2NO + O2 2NO2; NO2 + SO2 + H2O H2SO4
|
||
|
||
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
|
||
industrial plant. However, it is readily available as it is a major
|
||
component of lead-acid batteries. The sulfuric acid could be poured off from
|
||
a new battery, or purchased from a battery shop or motorcycle store. If the
|
||
acid is removed from a battery there will be pieces of lead from the battery
|
||
which must be removed, either by boiling and filtration. The concentration
|
||
of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it or otherwise
|
||
removing some of the water from the solution. Very pure sulfuric acid pours
|
||
slightly faster than clean motor oil.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate
|
||
|
||
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high explosive.
|
||
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in
|
||
an ice bath. Then, by simply pour household ammonia into the flask and keep
|
||
a safe distance away until the reaction has completed. After the materials
|
||
have stopped reacting, one simply has to leave the solution in a warm dry
|
||
place until all of the water and any neutralized ammonia or acid have
|
||
evaporated. Finely powdered crystals of ammonium nitrate would remain. These
|
||
must be kept in an airtight container, because of their tendency to pick up
|
||
water from the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to
|
||
be heated very gently to drive off the remaining water before they can be
|
||
used.
|
||
|
||
Potassium Nitrate
|
||
|
||
Potassium nitrate can be obtained from black powder. Simply stir a
|
||
quantity of black powder into boiling water. The sulfur and charcoal will
|
||
be suspended in the water, but the potassium nitrate will dissolve. To
|
||
obtain 68g of potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90g
|
||
of black powder in about one liter of boiling water.
|
||
Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper until the liquid
|
||
that pours through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
|
||
insoluble in water, and so when the solution is allowed to evaporate, small
|
||
crystals of potassium nitrate will be left in the container.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:EXPLOSIVE FORMULAS
|
||
|
||
Once again, persons reading this material should never attempt to
|
||
produce any of the explosives described here. It is illegal and extremely
|
||
dangerous to do so. Loss of life and limbs could easily result from a failed
|
||
(or successful) attempt to produce any explosives or hazardous chemicals.
|
||
These procedures are correct, however many of the methods given here
|
||
are usually scaled down industrial procedures, and therefore may be better
|
||
suited to large scale production.
|
||
|
||
Explosive Theory
|
||
|
||
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat, shock, or
|
||
chemical reaction, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process
|
||
releases energy that is stored in the material. The energy, in the form of
|
||
heat and light, is released when the material breaks down into gaseous
|
||
compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the explosive did
|
||
originally. Because this expansion is very rapid, the expanding gasses
|
||
displace large volumes of air. This expansion often occurs at a speed
|
||
greater than the speed of sound, creating a shockwave similar to the sonic
|
||
boom produced by high-speed jet planes.
|
||
Explosives occur in several forms: high order explosives (detonating
|
||
explosives),low order explosives (deflagrating explosives), primers, and
|
||
some explosives which can progress from deflagrating to detonation. All high
|
||
order explosives are capable of detonation. Some high order explosives may
|
||
start out burning (deflagration) and progress to detonation. A detonation
|
||
can only occur in a high order explosive.
|
||
Detonation is caused by a shockwave that passes through a block of the
|
||
high explosive material. High explosives consist of molecules with many
|
||
high-energy bonds. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between
|
||
the atoms of the material, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of
|
||
sound traveling through that substance. Because high explosives are
|
||
generally solids or liquids, this speed can be much greater than the speed
|
||
of sound in air.
|
||
Unlike low-explosives, the fuel and oxidizer in a high-explosive are
|
||
chemically bonded, and this bond is usually too strong to be easily broken.
|
||
Usually a primer made from a sensitive high explosive is used to initiate
|
||
the detonation. When the primer detonates it sends a shockwave through the
|
||
high-explosive. This shockwave breaks apart the bonds, and the chemicals
|
||
released recombine to produce mostly gasses. Some examples of high
|
||
explosives are dynamite, ammonium nitrate, and RDX.
|
||
Low order explosives do not detonate. Instead they burn (undergo
|
||
oxidation) at a very high rate. When heated, the fuel and oxidizer combine
|
||
to produce heat, light, and gaseous products.
|
||
Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under pressure
|
||
as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as smokeless
|
||
gunpowder (which is primarily nitrocellulose) burn much faster and hotter
|
||
when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they
|
||
usually burn much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in the open.
|
||
Blackpowder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are common examples of low
|
||
order explosives.
|
||
Primers are the most dangerous explosive compounds in common use. Some
|
||
of them, such as mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order
|
||
explosive. They are chosen because they are more sensitive to friction,
|
||
heat, and shock, than commonly used high or low explosives. Most primers
|
||
perform like a dangerously sensitive high explosive. Others merely burn, but
|
||
when they are confined, they burn at a very high rate and with a large
|
||
expansion of gasses that produces a shockwave. A small amount of a priming
|
||
material is used to initiate, or cause to decompose, a large quantity of
|
||
relatively insensitive high explosives. They are also frequently used as a
|
||
reliable means of igniting low order explosives. The gunpowder in a bullet
|
||
is ignited by the detonation of the primer.
|
||
Blasting caps are similar to primers, but they usually include both
|
||
a primer and some intermediate explosive. Compounds used as primers can
|
||
include lead azide, lead styphnate, diazodinitrophenol or mixtures of two
|
||
or more of them. A small charge of PETN, RDX, or pentolite may be included
|
||
in the more powerful blasting caps, such as those used in grenades. The
|
||
small charge of moderately-sensitive high explosive initiates a much larger
|
||
charge of insensitive high explosive.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Impact Explosives
|
||
|
||
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
|
||
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
|
||
Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little
|
||
heat and no light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest
|
||
care, and nobody without an extreme death wish would store them near any
|
||
high or low explosives.
|
||
|
||
Ammonium triiodide crystals (nitrogen triiodide)
|
||
|
||
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul smelling purple colored crystals
|
||
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if
|
||
they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
|
||
crystals are so sensitive that they will decompose when a fly lands on them,
|
||
or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough
|
||
impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will
|
||
detonate only when thrown, crushed, or heated.
|
||
The ammonia available in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine
|
||
and cloudy ammonia should not be used; only the strong clear ammonia can be
|
||
used to make ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is
|
||
heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas will appear. Whatever the
|
||
unfortunate surface that the crystal was detonated upon, it will probably
|
||
be ruined, as some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid
|
||
form, and iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, brownish-purple
|
||
stains on whatever it contacts. These stains can be removed with
|
||
photographer's hypo solution, or with the dechlorinating compound sold for
|
||
use in fish tanks.
|
||
|
||
Iodine fumes are also bad news, since they can damage your lungs, and
|
||
they will settle to the ground,leaving stains there as well. Contact with
|
||
iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless
|
||
they are immediately and vigorously washed off.
|
||
|
||
Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
|
||
|
||
Materials
|
||
|
||
iodine crystalsfunnel filter paperglass stirring rod
|
||
paper towels clear ammoniatwo glass jarspotassium iodide
|
||
|
||
1) Place 5 grams of iodine into one of the glass jars. Because the
|
||
iodine is very difficult to remove, use jars that you don't want to save.
|
||
|
||
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine. Stir several
|
||
times, then add 5 grams of potassium iodide. Stir for 30 seconds.
|
||
|
||
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in
|
||
the funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in
|
||
every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that
|
||
a semicircle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
|
||
one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
|
||
the cone into the funnel.
|
||
|
||
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour
|
||
the solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
|
||
|
||
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the
|
||
first jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it
|
||
drains.
|
||
|
||
6) Collect all the crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
|
||
and place them on the paper towels to dry. Make sure that they are not too
|
||
close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate.
|
||
While they are still wet, divide the wet material into small pieces as large
|
||
as your thumbnail.
|
||
|
||
To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them where
|
||
they will be stepped on or crushed. When the crystals are disturbed they
|
||
decompose into iodine vapor, nitrogen, and ammonia.
|
||
|
||
3I2 + 5NH4OH 3 NH4I + NH3NI3 + 5H2O
|
||
|
||
iodine + ammonium hydroxide ammonium iodide + ammonium nitrogen triiodide + water
|
||
|
||
The optimal yield from pure iodine is 54% of the original mass in the
|
||
form of the explosive sediment. The remainder of the iodine remains in the
|
||
solution of ammonium iodide, and can be extracted by extracting the water
|
||
(vacuum distillation is an efficient method) and treating the remaining
|
||
product with chlorine.
|
||
|
||
Mercury Fulminate
|
||
|
||
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
|
||
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock. Even the action of
|
||
dropping a crystal of the fulminate can cause it to explode. This material
|
||
can be produced through the following procedure:
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
5 g mercury glass stirring rod blue litmus paper
|
||
35 ml conc nitric acid filter paper small funnel
|
||
100 ml beaker (2) acid resistant gloves heat source
|
||
30 ml ethyl alcohol distilled water
|
||
|
||
Solvent alcohol must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to
|
||
make mercury fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from
|
||
forming.
|
||
Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may
|
||
be hard to find in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and
|
||
other less toxic fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which
|
||
are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and
|
||
should be kept in the thermometer, mercury switch, or other container until
|
||
used. At room temperature mercury vapor is evolved, and it can be absorbed
|
||
through the skin. Once in your body mercury will cause damage to the brain
|
||
and other organs. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury,
|
||
and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber
|
||
gloves will help prevent this.
|
||
|
||
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric
|
||
acid, using the glass rod.
|
||
|
||
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
|
||
when the solution turns green and boils.
|
||
|
||
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
|
||
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
|
||
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
|
||
|
||
4) between thirty and forty minutes after the fumes first appear, they
|
||
should turn white, indicating that the reaction is near completion. After
|
||
ten more minutes, add 30 ml distilled water to the solution.
|
||
|
||
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the
|
||
liquid solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is
|
||
corrosive and toxic.
|
||
|
||
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as
|
||
much excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
|
||
they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
|
||
touches the wet crystals.
|
||
|
||
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
|
||
from any explosive or flammable material.
|
||
|
||
This procedure can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
|
||
cannot be weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
|
||
ethanol to every one volume of mercury.
|
||
|
||
Nitroglycerin (C3H5N3O9)
|
||
|
||
Nitroglycerin is one of the most sensitive explosives ever to be
|
||
commercially produced. It is a very dense liquid, and is sensitive to heat,
|
||
impact, and many organic materials. Although it is not water soluble, it
|
||
will dissolve in 4 parts of pure ethyl alcohol.
|
||
|
||
Heat of Combustion: 1580 cal/g
|
||
Products of Explosion: Carbon Dioxide, Water, Nitrogen, Oxygen
|
||
Human Toxicity: Highly toxic vasodilator, avoid skin contact!
|
||
|
||
Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult to do so
|
||
in small quantities. Many a young pyrotechnician has been killed or
|
||
seriously injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories
|
||
make it, many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions.
|
||
Usually, as soon as nitroglycerin is made, it is converted into a safer
|
||
substance, such as dynamite. A person foolish enough to make
|
||
nitroglycerine could use the following procedure:
|
||
|
||
EQUIPMENT
|
||
|
||
distilled water eyedropper thermometer
|
||
1 100 ml beaker 20 g sodium bicarbonate glycerine
|
||
3 300 ml beakers 13 ml concentrated nitric acid
|
||
blue litmus paper 39 ml concentrated sulfuric acid
|
||
|
||
2 ice baths:
|
||
2 small non-metallic containers each filled halfway with:
|
||
crushed ice
|
||
6 tablespoons table salt
|
||
|
||
The salt will lower the freezing point of the water, increasing the
|
||
cooling efficiency of the ice bath.
|
||
|
||
|
||
1) Prepare the two ice baths. While the ice baths are cooling, pour
|
||
150 ml of distilled water into each of the beakers.
|
||
|
||
2) Slowly add sodium bicarbonate to the second beaker, stirring
|
||
constantly. Do not add too much sodium bicarbonate to the water. If some
|
||
remains undissolved, pour the solution into a fresh beaker.
|
||
|
||
3) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
|
||
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
|
||
will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
|
||
into the beaker when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
|
||
large enough container to add more ice if it gets too warm. Bring the
|
||
temperature of the acid down to 20<32> centigrade or less.
|
||
|
||
4) Slowly and carefully add 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the
|
||
nitric acid. Mix well, then cool the mixture to 10<31> centigrade. Do not be
|
||
alarmed if the temperature rises slightly when the acids are mixed.
|
||
|
||
5) With the eyedropper, slowly drip the glycerine onto the acid
|
||
mixture, one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the
|
||
mixture where the mixed acids and glycerine meet.
|
||
|
||
The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature
|
||
will immediately begin to rise. Do not allow the temperature to rise above
|
||
30<EFBFBD> celsius. If the temperature is allowed to get to high, the nitroglycerin
|
||
may decompose spontaneously as it is formed. Add glycerine until there is
|
||
a thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids.
|
||
|
||
6) Stir the mixture for the first ten minutes of nitration, if
|
||
neccessary adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of
|
||
the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30<33>. The nitroglycerine will
|
||
form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric
|
||
acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
|
||
|
||
7) When the reaction is over, the nitroglycerine should be chilled to
|
||
below 25<32>. You can now slowly and carefully pour the solution of
|
||
nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the beaker of distilled water in the
|
||
beaker . The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and
|
||
the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as
|
||
much of the acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the
|
||
nitroglycerine.
|
||
|
||
8) Carefully remove a small quantity of nitroglycerine with a clean
|
||
eye-dropper, and place it into the beaker filled in step 2. The sodium
|
||
bicarbonate solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the
|
||
nitroglycerine less likely to spontaneously explode. Test the
|
||
nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat
|
||
this step if necessary, using new sodium bicarbonate solutions each time.
|
||
|
||
9) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in
|
||
a clean container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine
|
||
is far away as possible from anything of value. Nitroglycerine can explode
|
||
for no apparent reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
|
||
|
||
Picrates
|
||
|
||
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
|
||
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
|
||
they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact.
|
||
By mixing picric acid with a warm solution of a metal hydroxide, such
|
||
as sodium or potassium hydroxide, metal picrates are formed. These picrates
|
||
are easily soluble in warm water, (potassium picrate will dissolve in 4
|
||
parts water at 100<30> C), but relatively insoluble in cold water (potassium
|
||
picrate will dissolve in 200 parts water at 10<31> C). While many of these
|
||
picrates are dangerously impact sensitive, others are almost safe enough for
|
||
a suicidal person to consider their manufacture.
|
||
To convert picric acid into potassium picrate, you first need to
|
||
obtain picric acid, or produce it by following the instructions given on
|
||
page 26. If the acid is in solid form it should be mixed with 10% water (by
|
||
weight).
|
||
Prepare a moderately strong (6 mole) solution of potassium hydroxide,
|
||
and heat it until it almost reaches a slow boil. Lower the temperature 10
|
||
degrees, and slowly add the picric acid solution. At first the mixture
|
||
should bubble strongly, releasing carbon dioxide. when the bubbles cease
|
||
stop adding picric acid. Cool the solution to 10<31> C. Potassium picrate will
|
||
crystallize out. The solution should be properly disposed of.
|
||
These crystals are impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator
|
||
for any type of high explosive. The crystals should be stored in a plastic
|
||
or glass container under distilled water.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Low Order Explosives
|
||
|
||
Low order explosives can be defined as a single compound of mixture
|
||
of compounds which burns at a high rate producing a large amount of gas,
|
||
which is usually accompanied by heat and light. Most have the following
|
||
components.
|
||
|
||
An oxidizer: This can be any chemical which contains a large
|
||
amount of oxygen. When heated the oxidizer gives up this oxygen.
|
||
|
||
A fuel: The fuel is often carbon, or a finely powdered metal.
|
||
It is the material that does the actual burning.
|
||
|
||
A catalyst: The catalyst makes it easier for the oxidizer to
|
||
react with the fuel, and is mandatory for many of the less powerful
|
||
explosives. Not all low explosives need a catalyst, and in many cases
|
||
(such as flash powder) adding a catalyst can make the explosive
|
||
dangerously sensitive.
|
||
|
||
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun
|
||
stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise
|
||
store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
|
||
individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making his
|
||
own low-order explosives.
|
||
There are many common materials which can be used to produce low
|
||
explosives. With a strong enough container, almost any mixture of an
|
||
oxidizer and a fuel can be used to make an explosive device.
|
||
|
||
Black Powder
|
||
|
||
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
|
||
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
|
||
make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about half the mass of
|
||
black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half
|
||
is released as very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major
|
||
danger: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very hazardous,
|
||
and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools to
|
||
avoid generating a static charge.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
75 g potassium nitrate distilled water
|
||
charcoal wooden salad bowl
|
||
10 g sulfur wooden spoon
|
||
heat source breathing filter
|
||
grinding bowl 3 plastic bags
|
||
500 ml beaker fine mesh screen
|
||
|
||
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the
|
||
grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Grind all of the
|
||
potassium or sodium nitrate, and pass it through the screen to remove any
|
||
large particles. Store the sifted powder in one of the plastic bags.
|
||
|
||
2) Repeat step one with the sulfur and charcoal, being careful to
|
||
grind each chemical with a clean bowl and tool. store each chemical in a
|
||
separate plastic bag.
|
||
|
||
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the
|
||
beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to moisten it
|
||
uniformly.
|
||
|
||
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or
|
||
sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there
|
||
is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
|
||
black.
|
||
|
||
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
|
||
Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is seldom too
|
||
hot, but it is usually hot enough to evaporate the water.
|
||
|
||
6) Using a wooden tool, scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and
|
||
store it in a safe container. Static proof plastic is really the safest
|
||
container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag,
|
||
since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity. If a small
|
||
packet of desiccant is added the powder will remain effective indefinitely.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Nitrocellulose
|
||
|
||
Nitrocellulose is commonly called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is
|
||
more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot
|
||
gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when in a confined space.
|
||
Although the acids used can be very dangerous if safety precautions
|
||
are not followed, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the
|
||
following procedure:
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
cotton (cellulose) (2) 300 ml beakers
|
||
small funnel blue litmus paper
|
||
concentrated nitric acid concentrated sulfuric acid
|
||
distilled water glass rod
|
||
|
||
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to
|
||
this 10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
|
||
|
||
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly
|
||
3 minutes.
|
||
|
||
3) Remove the nitrated cotton, and transfer it to a beaker of
|
||
distilled water to wash it in.
|
||
|
||
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
|
||
|
||
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is
|
||
ready to be dried and stored.
|
||
|
||
One common formula specifies 3 parts sulfuric acid to one part nitric
|
||
acid. This has not been demonstrated to be more effective than equal volumes
|
||
of each. Runaway nitration is commonplace, but it is usually not disastrous.
|
||
It has been suggested that pre-washing the cotton cloth in a solution of
|
||
lye, and rinsing it well in distilled water before nitrating can help
|
||
prevent runaway nitration. If the reaction appears to be more vigorous than
|
||
expected, water will quench the runaway reaction of cellulose.
|
||
|
||
WARNINGS
|
||
All the usual warnings about strong acids apply. H2SO4 has a tendency
|
||
to spatter. When it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue very painfully.
|
||
It dissolves all manner of clothing. Nitric also damages skin, turning it
|
||
bright yellow in the process of eating away at your flesh. Nitric acid is
|
||
a potent oxidizer and it can start fires. Most strong acids will happily
|
||
blind you if you get them in your eyes, and these are no exception.
|
||
|
||
Nitrocellulose decomposes very slowly on storage if isn't correctly
|
||
stabilized. The decomposition is auto-catalyzing, and can result in
|
||
spontaneous explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The
|
||
process is much faster if the material is not washed well enough.
|
||
Nitrocellulose powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl
|
||
centralite. Do not allow these to come into contact with nitric acid! A
|
||
small amount of either substance added to the washed product will capture
|
||
the small amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They
|
||
therefore inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any
|
||
case.
|
||
|
||
Commercially produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by spinning it in
|
||
a large centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled. It is
|
||
then boiled in acidulated water and washing thoroughly with fresh water. If
|
||
the NC is to be used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution,
|
||
then rinsed in fresh water.
|
||
The purer the acid used (lower water content) the more complete the
|
||
nitration will be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. There
|
||
are actually three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful
|
||
for pyrotechnic purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive,
|
||
and are produced by incomplete nitration. The explosive trinatrate is only
|
||
formed when the nitration is allowed to proceed to completion.
|
||
|
||
Perchlorates
|
||
|
||
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric
|
||
acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium
|
||
or sodium, become excellent bases for flash type powders. Some materials
|
||
that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce
|
||
potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal,
|
||
e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide.
|
||
It is a good idea to test the material to be treated with a very small
|
||
amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively when
|
||
contacted by picric acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are
|
||
ideal. Perchlorates are much safer than similar chlorates, and equally as
|
||
powerful. Mixtures made with perchlorates are somewhat more difficult to
|
||
ignite than mixtures containing chlorates, but the increased safety
|
||
outweighs this minor inconvenience.
|
||
|
||
Flash Powder
|
||
|
||
Flash powder is a fast, powerful explosive, and comes very close to
|
||
many high explosives. It is a very hazardous mixture to work with, due to
|
||
the sensitivity of the powder. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks,
|
||
and should never be mixed with other chemicals or black powder. It burns
|
||
very rapidly with a intense white flash, and will explode if confined. Large
|
||
quantities may explode even when not confined. This is because a large pile
|
||
of flash powder is self-confining, causing the explosion. Flash powder is
|
||
commonly made with aluminum and/or magnesium. Other metals can be used, but
|
||
most others are either two expensive (zirconium) or not reactive enough to
|
||
be effective (zinc)
|
||
|
||
Here are a few basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to
|
||
produce your own flash powder:
|
||
|
||
1) Grind the oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a
|
||
clean container. If a mortar and pestle is used, it should be washed out
|
||
with alcohol before being used to grind any other materials.
|
||
|
||
2) NEVER grind or sift the mixed composition. Grinding and sifting can
|
||
cause friction or static electricity.
|
||
|
||
3) Mix the powders on a large sheet of paper, by rolling the
|
||
composition back and forth. This technique is described in detail on page
|
||
3
|
||
|
||
4) Do not store flash compositions for any amount of time. Many
|
||
compounds, especially ones containing magnesium, will decompose over time
|
||
and may ignite spontaneously.
|
||
|
||
5) Make very small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the
|
||
power of such mixtures. Quantities greater than 10 grams should be avoided.
|
||
Most flash powders are capable of exploding if a quantity of more than 50
|
||
grams is ignited unconfined, and all flash powders will explode even with
|
||
minimal confinement (I have seen 10 g of flash wrapped in a single layer of
|
||
waxed paper explode)
|
||
|
||
6) Make sure that all the components of the mixture are as dry as
|
||
possible. Check the melting point of the substances, and dry them
|
||
(separately) in a warm oven. If KNO3 is used it must be very pure and dry,
|
||
or it will evolve ammonia fumes.
|
||
|
||
Almost any potent oxidizer can be used for flash powder. Some
|
||
materials may react with the fuel, especially if magnesium is used. KClO4
|
||
with Al is generally found in commercial fireworks, this does not mean that
|
||
it is safe, but it is safer than KClO3 if handled correctly.
|
||
The finer the oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more
|
||
powerful the explosive, except in the case of aluminum. This of course will
|
||
also increase the sensitivity of the flash powder. Beyond a certain point,
|
||
the finer the aluminum powder the less powerful the explosive, due to the
|
||
coating of aluminum oxide which forms on the surface of the aluminum
|
||
granules.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: Flash powder in any container will detonate. This includes even
|
||
a couple of layers of newspaper, or other forms of loosely confined flash.
|
||
Potassium perchlorate is safer than sodium/potassium chlorate.
|
||
|
||
|
||
High Order Explosives
|
||
|
||
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
|
||
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the
|
||
high explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular
|
||
structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more nitrogen dioxide
|
||
molecules. Trinitrotoluene is an excellent example of such a material. When
|
||
a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond
|
||
is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of
|
||
microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
|
||
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are never to be carried out,
|
||
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
|
||
listed.
|
||
|
||
R.D.X.
|
||
|
||
R.D.X., (also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 when mixed with
|
||
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This
|
||
is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier
|
||
to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a
|
||
moderate shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate or
|
||
nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.
|
||
R.D.X. can be produced by the method given below. It is much easier
|
||
to make in the home than all other high explosives, with the possible
|
||
exception of ammonium nitrate.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
hexamine or methenamine 1000 ml beaker ice bath
|
||
glass stirring rod thermometer funnel
|
||
filter paper distilled water ammonium nitrate
|
||
nitric acid (550 ml) blue litmus paper small ice bath
|
||
|
||
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see page 15) and carefully pour
|
||
550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
|
||
|
||
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20<32>, add small amounts of the
|
||
crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must
|
||
be kept below 30<33>, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
|
||
|
||
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees celsius, either by adding
|
||
more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.
|
||
Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero for twenty
|
||
minutes.
|
||
|
||
4) Pour the mixture into 1 liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the
|
||
mixture, and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals,
|
||
and dispose of the corrosive liquid.
|
||
|
||
5) Place the crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled
|
||
water. Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper.
|
||
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make
|
||
the crystals more stable and safe.
|
||
|
||
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry
|
||
completely before using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as
|
||
an explosive.
|
||
|
||
Composition C-1 can be made by mixing (measure by weight)
|
||
|
||
R.D.X. 88%
|
||
mineral oil11%
|
||
lecithin 1%
|
||
|
||
|
||
Knead these material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to
|
||
desensitize the explosive.
|
||
|
||
HMX. is a mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it
|
||
is not as sensitive as unadultered RDX and it is almost as powerful as
|
||
straight RDX.
|
||
By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX produced in step 5,
|
||
it is possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since
|
||
ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium
|
||
nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
|
||
RDX.
|
||
RDX. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed
|
||
to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate (NH4NO3)
|
||
|
||
Ammonium nitrate can be made by following the method given on page 10,
|
||
or it could be obtained from a construction site, since it is commonly used
|
||
in blasting, because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat.
|
||
A well-funded researcher could also buy numerous "Instant Cold-Paks" from
|
||
a drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
|
||
nitrate, from a pyrotechnical point of view, is detonating it. A rather
|
||
powerful priming charge must be used, or a booster charge must be added.
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
|
||
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution, also known as ANFO, is a
|
||
commonly used high explosive. ANFO solves one of the major problem with
|
||
ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This
|
||
absorption results in the explosive failing to detonate when fired. This is
|
||
less of a problem with ANFO because it consists of 94% (by weight) ammonium
|
||
nitrate mixed with 6% fuel oil (kerosene). The kerosene helps keep the
|
||
ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air.
|
||
This mixture, like straight ammonium nitrate, is very insensitive to
|
||
shock. It requires a very powerful shockwave to detonate it, and is not very
|
||
effective in small quantities. Usually a booster charge, consisting of
|
||
dynamite or a commercial cast charge, is used for reliable detonation. Some
|
||
commercial ANFO explosives have a small amount of aluminum added, increasing
|
||
the power and sensitivity. These forms can often be reliably initiated by
|
||
a No. 8 blasting cap.
|
||
These disadvantages are outweighed by two important advantages of
|
||
ammonium nitrate explosives- cost, and safety. In industrial blasting these
|
||
factors are much more important than in recreational activities, and this
|
||
has contributed to the popularity of these explosives. If the explosive is
|
||
initiated without confinement it not propagate well, and most of the
|
||
ammonium nitrate will burn and scatter, rather than detonation as most other
|
||
high explosives would.
|
||
Ammonium nitrate explosives are much cheaper per pound than most other
|
||
explosives, with the price per pound at about 1/10 that of dynamite.
|
||
Straight ammonium nitrate can be transported to the blasting site without
|
||
the extract expenses incurred when transporting high explosives. At the
|
||
site, the ammonium nitrate, in the form of small pellets, or prills, can be
|
||
mixed with the fuel oil just prior to blasting.
|
||
If too much oil is added the power of the mixture will decrease,
|
||
because the extra oil will absorb some of the energy from the ammonium
|
||
nitrate, and it tends to slow propagation. If commercial fertilizer is used
|
||
to provide the ammonium nitrate, it must be crushed to be effective. This
|
||
is because fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate is coated with a water
|
||
resistant substance which helps keep moisture from decomposing the material.
|
||
This material also keeps the fuel oil from soaking into the ammonium
|
||
nitrate.
|
||
If fertilizer grade material is poured into a vat of warm, liquified
|
||
wax, the coating will be displaced by the wax, which can also serve as fuel
|
||
for the ammonium nitrate. This form is more sensitive than the fuel oil
|
||
mixture, and does not require as much confinement as ANFO.
|
||
|
||
Trinitrotoluene
|
||
|
||
T.N.T., or 2,4,6 trinitrotoluene, is perhaps the second oldest known
|
||
high explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. T.N.T. is certainly the
|
||
best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning
|
||
cartoons, and because it is used as a standard for comparing other
|
||
explosives.
|
||
In industrial production TNT is made by a three step nitration process
|
||
that is designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids, so that the only
|
||
resource consumed in quantity is the toluene. A person with limited funds,
|
||
however, should probably opt for the less economical two step method. This
|
||
process is performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric
|
||
acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric
|
||
acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added to the solution, and the T.N.T. is
|
||
filtered out.
|
||
|
||
Potassium Chlorate (KClO3)
|
||
|
||
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
|
||
obtained from labs and chemical supply houses. It is moderately water
|
||
soluble, and will explode if brought into contact with sulfuric acid. It is
|
||
toxic and should not be brought into contact with organic matter, including
|
||
human skin.
|
||
If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of vaseline, or
|
||
other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the material
|
||
will detonate, however it is not very powerful, and it must be confined to
|
||
explode it in this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is
|
||
outlined below:
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag wooden spoon
|
||
petroleum jelly grinding bowl wooden bowl
|
||
|
||
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and
|
||
slowly, until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer the
|
||
powder, the faster it will detonate, but it will also decompose more
|
||
quickly.
|
||
|
||
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly
|
||
into the plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
|
||
i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
|
||
|
||
3) Close the bag, and knead the materials together until none of the
|
||
potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
|
||
necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
|
||
|
||
Over time the this material will decompose, and if not used
|
||
immediately the strength will be greatly reduced.
|
||
|
||
Dynamite (various compositions)
|
||
|
||
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
|
||
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. He
|
||
tried soaking the nitroglycerine into many materials, in an effort to reduce
|
||
its sensitivity. In the process, he discovered that Nitrocellulose would
|
||
explode if brought into contact with fats or oils. A misguided individual
|
||
with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine would immediately
|
||
convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding one of a number of inert
|
||
materials, such as sawdust, to the raw nitroglycerine. The sawdust holds a
|
||
large weight of nitroglycerine. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
|
||
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, while
|
||
increasing the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really
|
||
safe.
|
||
One way to reliably stabilize nitroglycerin is to freeze it. In its
|
||
frozen state, nitroglycerine is much less sensitive to shock, and can safely
|
||
be transported. The only drawback to this method is that the nitroglycerine
|
||
may explode spontaneously while being thawed.
|
||
|
||
Nitrostarch Explosives
|
||
|
||
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.
|
||
All that need be done is treat any of a number of starches with a mixture
|
||
of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. Nitrostarch explosives are of
|
||
slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
filter paperpyrex container (100 ml)distilled water
|
||
glass rod 20 ml concentrated sulfuric acidacid-resistant gloves
|
||
1 g starch20 ml concentrated nitric acid
|
||
|
||
1) Add concentrated sulfuric acid to an equal volume of concentrated
|
||
nitric acid in the pyrex container. Watch out for splattering acid.
|
||
|
||
2) Add 1 gram of starch of starch to the mixture, stirring constantly
|
||
with the glass rod.
|
||
|
||
3) Carefully add cold water to dilute the acids, then pour the mixture
|
||
through the filter paper (see page 13). The residue consists of nitrostarch
|
||
with a small amount of acid, and should be washed under cold distilled
|
||
water.
|
||
|
||
Picric Acid (C6H3N3O7)
|
||
|
||
Picric acid, or 2,4,6-trinitrophenol is a sensitive compound that can
|
||
be used as a booster charge for moderately insensitive explosives, such as
|
||
T.N.T. It is seldom used for explosives anymore, but it still has
|
||
applications in many industries, including leather production, copper
|
||
etching, and textiles. Picric acid is usually shipped mixed with 20% water
|
||
for safety, and when dried it forms pale yellow crystals.
|
||
In small quantities picric acid deflagrates, but large crystals or
|
||
moderate quantities of powdered picric acid will detonate with sufficient
|
||
force to initiate high explosives (or remove the experimenter's fingers).
|
||
Picric acid, along with all of it's salts, is very dangerous, and should
|
||
never be stored dry or in a metal container. Contact with bare skin should
|
||
be avoided, and ingestion is often fatal.
|
||
Picric acid is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire
|
||
sulfuric and nitric acid in the required concentration. Simple procedures
|
||
for it's manufacture are given in many college chemistry lab manuals. The
|
||
main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive
|
||
and unstable picrate salts. While some of these salts, such as potassium
|
||
picrate are stable enough to be useful, salts formed with other metals can
|
||
be extremely unstable. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
|
||
form, such as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A procedure for
|
||
the production of picric acid is given below.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
variable heat source ice bathdistilled water
|
||
38 ml concentrated nitric acid filter paper500 ml flaskfunnel
|
||
concentrated sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1 L pyrex beaker10g phenolglass rod
|
||
|
||
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add
|
||
12.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
|
||
|
||
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling
|
||
container and bring the water to a gentle boil.
|
||
|
||
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
|
||
boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about
|
||
thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to
|
||
cool for seven minutes.
|
||
|
||
4) After allowing the flask to cool for 10 minutes. Place the 500 ml
|
||
flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of
|
||
concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly.
|
||
A vigorous reaction should occur. When the reaction slows, take the flask
|
||
out of the ice bath.
|
||
|
||
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling
|
||
more tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling
|
||
water, and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
|
||
|
||
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it
|
||
in an ice bath until it is cold.
|
||
|
||
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
|
||
solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and
|
||
dispose of it in a safe place, since it is highly corrosive.
|
||
|
||
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the
|
||
contents of the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake
|
||
vigorously.
|
||
|
||
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
|
||
|
||
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since
|
||
they will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
|
||
spontaneously.
|
||
|
||
Ammonium Picrate (C6H2.ONH4.(NO2)3)
|
||
|
||
Ammonium picrate, also called ammonium piconitrate, Explosive D, or
|
||
carbazoate, is a common safety explosive which can be produced from picric
|
||
acid. It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less
|
||
than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. In many ways it is much
|
||
safer than picric acid, since it does not have the tendency to form
|
||
hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to
|
||
make from picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is
|
||
to dissolve picric acid crystals by placing them in a glass container and
|
||
adding 15 parts hot, steaming distilled water. Add clear ammonia in excess,
|
||
and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should be
|
||
ammonium picrate. The water should not be heated, as ammonium picrate is
|
||
sensitive to heat. Vacuum distillation and open evaporation are relatively
|
||
safe ways to extract the picrate.
|
||
Ammonium picrate most commonly appears as bright yellow crystals, and
|
||
is soluble in water. These crystals should be treated with the care due to
|
||
all shock sensitive materials. Some illegal salutes have been found to
|
||
contain ammonium picrate, which makes them much more hazardous.
|
||
|
||
Nitrogen Chloride (NCl3)
|
||
|
||
Nitrogen chloride, also known as nitrogen trichloride, chlorine
|
||
nitride, or Trichloride nitride, is a thick, oily yellow liquid. It
|
||
explodes violently when it is heated to 93<39> C, exposed to bright light
|
||
(sunlight), when brought into contact with organic substances, grease,
|
||
ozone, and nitric oxide. Nitrogen chloride will evaporate if left in an open
|
||
vessel, and will decompose within 24 hours. It has the interesting quality
|
||
of exploding 13 seconds after being sealed in a glass container at 60<36> C .
|
||
It can produce highly toxic byproducts, and should not be handled or stored.
|
||
Because of the hazards of chlorine gas, if this procedure should never
|
||
be carried out without an adequate source of ventilation. If a fume hood is
|
||
not available the procedure should be done outside, away from buildings,
|
||
small children, and pets.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
ammonium nitrate 2 pyrex beakersheat source glass pipe
|
||
hydrochloric acid one hole stopperlarge flask fume hood
|
||
potassium permanganate
|
||
|
||
|
||
1) In a beaker, dissolve 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
|
||
If too much ammonium nitrate is added to the solution and some of it remains
|
||
undissolved in the bottom of the beaker, the solution should be poured off
|
||
into a fresh beaker.
|
||
|
||
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
|
||
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a
|
||
stopper and glass pipe.
|
||
|
||
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of
|
||
the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
|
||
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
|
||
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
|
||
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
|
||
|
||
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them as
|
||
soon as possible.
|
||
|
||
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
|
||
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
|
||
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
|
||
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by
|
||
gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass
|
||
tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia
|
||
generating flask in another flask that contains water.
|
||
|
||
Lead Azide
|
||
|
||
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
|
||
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive
|
||
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it
|
||
is easily detonated by heat from an ignition wire, or a blasting cap. It
|
||
is simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
|
||
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
|
||
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two
|
||
beakers together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
|
||
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the
|
||
beaker stops forming.
|
||
Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in hot water. The
|
||
precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety. If lead
|
||
acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead metal in
|
||
it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
|
||
Lead azide can also be produced by substituting lead nitrate for the
|
||
acetate. the reaction is given below:
|
||
|
||
lead nitrate + sodium azide lead azide + sodium nitrate
|
||
Pb(NO3)2 + 2NaN3 Pb(N3)2 + 2NaNO3
|
||
|
||
The result is the same precipitate of lead azide, leaving behind the
|
||
sodium nitrate and traces of lead. The contaminated water should be disposed
|
||
of in an environmentally safe manner.
|
||
|
||
Other Reactions
|
||
|
||
This section covers the other types of materials that can be used in
|
||
pyrotechnic reactions. although none of the materials presented here are
|
||
explosives, they are often as hazardous as explosives, and should be treated
|
||
with due respect.
|
||
|
||
Thermite
|
||
|
||
Thermite is a fuel-oxidizer mixture that is used to generate
|
||
tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented earlier because it does not
|
||
react nearly as readily as most mixtures. The most common form of thermite
|
||
is a mixture of ferric oxide and aluminum, both coarsely powdered. When
|
||
ignited, the aluminum burns by extracting oxygen from the ferric oxide. The
|
||
thermite reaction is is really two very exothermic reactions that produce
|
||
a combined temperature of about 2200<30> C. It is difficult to ignite, however,
|
||
but once it is ignited, thermite is one of the most effective fire starters
|
||
around.
|
||
To produce thermite you will need one part powdered aluminum and three
|
||
parts powdered iron oxide (ferric oxide or Fe2O3), measured by weight. There
|
||
is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermite. Simply mix
|
||
the two powders together. Take enough time to make the mixture as homogenous
|
||
as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum isn't very important, and
|
||
if no weighing equiptment is available a 1/1 mixture by volume will work.
|
||
If a small amount of finely powdered material is used as a starter, the bulk
|
||
of the thermite mixture can be made up of larger sized material, in the same
|
||
ratio.
|
||
There are very few safety hazards in making thermite. The aluminum
|
||
dust can form an explosive mixture in air, and inhaling powdered metals can
|
||
be very bad for your health. It is important to take precautions to insure
|
||
that the powdered metals are very dry, or the water vapor produced during
|
||
the reaction will cause the thermite to spray droplets of molten steel in
|
||
a large radius.
|
||
Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
|
||
potassium chlorate to a teaspoon of thermite, and pouring a few drops of
|
||
sulfuric acid on it. This method and others are discussed on page 49.
|
||
Another method of igniting thermite is with a magnesium strip. The important
|
||
factor in igniting thermite is having a material that will produce
|
||
concentrated heat in a very small region. For this reason, matches will not
|
||
work, but sparklers and other aluminum based flares will.
|
||
|
||
Molotov Cocktails
|
||
|
||
One of the simplest incendiary devices invented, The Molotov cocktail
|
||
is now employed in the defense of oppressed people worldwide. They range
|
||
in complexity from the simple bottle and rag to complicated self-igniting
|
||
firebombs, but in any form a molotov cocktail can produce devastating
|
||
results.
|
||
By taking any highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel
|
||
fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any
|
||
mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can
|
||
make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the
|
||
bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid in the top
|
||
of the bottle so that it fits tightly.
|
||
Then, wrap some of the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure
|
||
to leave a few inches of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and
|
||
throw the bottle. If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle
|
||
breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area
|
||
near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
|
||
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with
|
||
a more volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition.
|
||
A mixture such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that
|
||
it strikes, burn hotter and longer, and be more difficult to extinguish. A
|
||
a bottle contain a mixture of different fuels must be shaken well before it
|
||
is lit and thrown.
|
||
|
||
Other interesting additives can include alcohol, acetone or other
|
||
solvents, which will generally thin the contents and possibly increase the
|
||
size of the fireball. By adding a gelling agent such as disk soap,
|
||
polystyrene, or other material the flaming material can be made sticky
|
||
enough that it will adhere to a vertical surface, such as a wall or the side
|
||
of a vehicle.
|
||
|
||
Chemical Fire Bottle
|
||
|
||
The chemical fire bottle is really nothing more than an advanced
|
||
molotov cocktail. Rather than using burning cloth to ignite the flammable
|
||
liquid, which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical
|
||
fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid
|
||
and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the
|
||
mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and
|
||
sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid, instantly bursts into a white
|
||
flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance of failure to ignite the gasoline
|
||
is very low, and can be reduced further if there is enough potassium
|
||
chlorate and sugar to spare.
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
potassium chlorate (2 teaspoons)12 oz.glass bottle w/lined capplastic spoon
|
||
gasoline (8 ounces) sugar (2 teaspoons) cooking pan
|
||
baking soda (1 teaspoon) sulfuric acid ( 4 ounces)paper towels
|
||
glass cup glass or teflon coated funnelrubber cement
|
||
|
||
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to
|
||
make sure that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage.
|
||
If the acid eats through it, a new top must be found and tested, until a cap
|
||
that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
|
||
|
||
2) Carefully mix the gasoline with the sulfuric acid. This should be
|
||
done in an open area and preferably from a distance. There is a chance that
|
||
the sulfuric acid could react with an impurity in the gasoline, igniting it.
|
||
|
||
3) Using a glass funnel, slowly pour the mixture into the glass
|
||
bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the
|
||
cap on the bottle. Wash the outside with a solution of baking soda in cold
|
||
water. Then carefully rinse the outside with plenty of cold water. Set it
|
||
aside to dry.
|
||
|
||
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two
|
||
teaspoons of sugar into the glass cup. Add about <20> cup of boiling water,
|
||
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
|
||
|
||
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the raised edge cooking pan. Fold
|
||
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
|
||
chlorate and sugar on it until it is wet through, but not soaked. Allow the
|
||
towel to dry.
|
||
|
||
6) When it is dry, put a line of cement about 1" wide down the side
|
||
of the glass bottle. Starting halfway across the line of cement, wrap the
|
||
paper towel around the bottle, with the bottom edge of the towel lining up
|
||
with the bottom edge of the bottle. Coat the inside of the remaining edge
|
||
of the towel with cement before pressing it into place. Store the bottle in
|
||
a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
|
||
|
||
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two
|
||
distinct liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear
|
||
solution on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire
|
||
bottle, simply throw it at any hard surface.
|
||
|
||
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE
|
||
CAP, WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE
|
||
POTASSIUM CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
|
||
|
||
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the
|
||
bottle, and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
|
||
immediately burst into a white flame.
|
||
|
||
If you intend to subsitute other flammable liquids for the gasoline,
|
||
first make sure that they will not react with the sulfuric acid. This can
|
||
be done by mixing a small amount in a bottle, then testing the Ph after
|
||
several days have passed.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:COMPRESSED GAS BOMBS
|
||
|
||
Compressed gas bombs come in several forms, but all of them utilize
|
||
the square pressure law- as the temperature of the gas increases, the
|
||
pressure increases at a much higher rate. Eventually the pressure will
|
||
exceed the rating of the container, and it will burst, releasing the gas.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Bottled Gas Explosives
|
||
|
||
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for
|
||
propane stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful
|
||
explosion. To make such a device, all that a destructive person would have
|
||
to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can
|
||
of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and leave the area in
|
||
a hurry. Depending on the amount of gas, the fuel used, and on the thickness
|
||
of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to the point of
|
||
bursting the container in anywhere from a few seconds to five minutes or
|
||
more.
|
||
In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning
|
||
gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately,
|
||
the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus
|
||
preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half
|
||
filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the
|
||
gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing a canister of bottled
|
||
gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the
|
||
most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although
|
||
the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline,
|
||
the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide,
|
||
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
|
||
|
||
Another interesting use of compressed flammable gases is in the
|
||
production of explosive mixtures of gases. By mixing a flammable gas with
|
||
the appropriate amount of oxygen, a very loud explosive combustion can be
|
||
achieved.
|
||
The simplest form of gas device is based on the common oxygen-
|
||
acetylene cutting torch. First the torch is lit and the mixture of gases is
|
||
adjusted for a hot, bright flame.
|
||
Next, the gas is diverted into some form of container. This can be a
|
||
soft, expandable container, such as a child's balloon or a rigid, inflexible
|
||
container, such as a garbage can or metal pipe. It is much safer to use
|
||
flexible containers that won't produce (much) shrapnel, however if a rigid
|
||
container is used, it can be used to lauch all sorts of interesting
|
||
projectiles.
|
||
A major danger in using mixed gases is the high chance of stray sparks
|
||
igniting the gases. A few simple safety measures can help reduce this
|
||
dangerous problem:
|
||
|
||
1) Always store the gases in seperate containers! This is the most
|
||
important rule in working with flammable gases. Pressurizing oxygen with a
|
||
flammable gas is askng for trouble, as under pressure the gases may react
|
||
spontaneously, and compressing mixed gases greatly increases the chances of
|
||
flashback.
|
||
|
||
2) Always work in the open. Flammable gases should never be used
|
||
indoors. Large quantities of heavier or lighter than air gases could
|
||
accumulate near the floor or ceiling.
|
||
|
||
3) Avoid static electricity. Static is less of a problem on humid
|
||
days, and it can be reduced by wearing clothing made of natural fibers,
|
||
removing all metal (such as jewelry, riveted clothes, etc) and wearing shoes
|
||
with crepe soles.
|
||
|
||
4) Keep your distance. Gas explosions can be very powerful and
|
||
unpredictable. A 55 gallon trash bag filled with the optimum mixture of
|
||
oxygen and acetylene 100 feet away can blow out eardrums and crack brick
|
||
walls.
|
||
|
||
6) Start out small. Work your way up from small plastic bags or
|
||
children's balloons.
|
||
|
||
The best method for safe ignition is to mount a spark plug into a
|
||
length of heavy steel pipe, and imbed this pipe 2-3 feet into the ground,
|
||
with less than 2 feet above ground. If desired, a sealed (to prevent any
|
||
sparks) switch can be wired across the wires to short the cable when you're
|
||
working at the site. Run heavy cable underground from the pipe to a ditch
|
||
or bunker at a safe distance, and terminate the cable in a pair of large
|
||
alligator clips, like the ones used on auto jumper cables. The outer edge
|
||
of these jumpers and the last foot of wire should be painted bright red. Now
|
||
drive a second pipe 2 feet into the ground, leaving 3-4 feet above ground.
|
||
While working at the site, the shorting switch should be thrown and
|
||
the two alligator clips attached to the top of the pipe at the bunker. Once
|
||
the gas equiptment is set up, check to ensure that both clips are on the
|
||
pipe, then turn off the shorting switch and retreat to the bunker.
|
||
At the bunker, remove the clips from the pipe and take cover. The
|
||
wires can now be attached to a high-voltage source. The spark plug will
|
||
create a short electrical arc, igniting the gases. If the gas fails to
|
||
ignite on the first try, wait a few seconds then power up the spark plug a
|
||
second time. If this fails do not approach the site until all the gases have
|
||
dispersed.
|
||
With the use of buried gas piping and anti-flashback devices, safety
|
||
can be greatly improved. The safest method is two have 2 bunkers equidistant
|
||
from the site, with one unmanned bunker containing the gas cylinders and
|
||
remotely controlled valves, and the second bunker containing the controls
|
||
and personnel.
|
||
|
||
During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second
|
||
only to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically
|
||
similar to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to
|
||
rupture the fuel container and disperse its contents over a wide area. a
|
||
delayed second charge is used to ignite the fuel. The reaction is said to
|
||
produce a massive shockwave and to burn all the oxygen in a large area,
|
||
causing suffocation.
|
||
Another benefit of fuel-air explosives is that the vaporized gas will
|
||
seep into fortified bunkers or other partially-sealed spaces, so a large
|
||
bomb placed in a building would result in the destruction of the majority
|
||
of surrounding rooms.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Dry Ice Bombs
|
||
(Or: How to recycle empty soda bottles)
|
||
|
||
Dry ice bombs have been discovered and rediscovered by many different
|
||
people, and there is no sure way to know who first came up with the idea of
|
||
putting dry ice (solid carbon dioxide) into an empty plastic soda bottle.
|
||
There is no standard formula for a dry ice bomb, however a generic form is
|
||
as follows:
|
||
|
||
Take a 2-liter soda bottle, empty it completely, then add about 3/4
|
||
Lb of dry ice (crushed works best) and (optional) a quantity of water. twist
|
||
cap on tightly, and get as far away from it as possible.
|
||
Depending on the condition of the bottle, the weather, and the amount
|
||
and temperature of the water added, the bottle may go off anywhere from 30
|
||
seconds to 5 minutes from when it was capped. Without any water added, the
|
||
2-liter bottles generally take from 3 to 7 minutes if dropped into a warm
|
||
river, and 45 minutes to 1<> hours in open air. It is possible for the
|
||
bottle to reach an extreme pressure without reaching the bursting point, in
|
||
which case any contact with the bottle would cause it to explode. This
|
||
effect has resulted in several injuries, and is difficult to reliably
|
||
reproduce.
|
||
The explosion sounds equivalent to an M-100, and usually results in
|
||
the bottle breaking into several large, sharp pieces of frozen plastic, with
|
||
the most dangerous projectile being the top section with the screw-on cap.
|
||
Plastic 16 oz. soda bottles and 1 liter bottles work almost as well as do
|
||
the 2-liters, however glass bottles aren't nearly as loud, and can produce
|
||
dangerous shrapnel.
|
||
Remember, these are LOUD! Dorian, a classmate of mine, set up 10
|
||
bottles in a nearby park without adding water. After the first two went off
|
||
(there was about 10 minutes between explosions) the Police arrived and spent
|
||
the next hour trying to find the guy who they thought was setting off
|
||
M-100's all around them...
|
||
Using anything other than plastic to contain dry ice bombs is
|
||
suicidal. Even plastic 2-liter bottles can produce some nasty shrapnel: One
|
||
source tells me that he caused an explosion with a 2-liter bottle that
|
||
destroyed a metal garbage can. Because of the freezing temperatures, the
|
||
plastic can become very hard and brittle, and when the bottle ruptures it
|
||
may spray shards of sharp, frozen plastic. While plastic bottles can be
|
||
dangerous, glass bottles may be deadly. It is rumored that several kids have
|
||
been killed by shards of glass resulting from the use of a glass bottle.
|
||
For some reason, dry ice bombs have become very popular in the state
|
||
of Utah. As a result, dry ice bombs have been classified as infernal
|
||
devices, and in utah possession of a completed bomb is a criminal offense.
|
||
Most other states do not have specific laws on the books outlawing these
|
||
devices. There are several generic offenses which you could be charged with,
|
||
including disturbing the peace, reckless endangerment, destruction of
|
||
property, and construction of a nefarious device.
|
||
It is interesting to note that dry ice bombs are not really
|
||
pyrotechnic devices. As the carbon dioxide sublimes into it's gaseous state,
|
||
the pressure inside the bottle increases. When the bottle ruptures, the gas
|
||
is released. This sudden release of pressure causes the temperature of the
|
||
gases to drop. It is noticed that right after detonation, a cloud of white
|
||
vapor appears. This may be the water vapor in the surrounding air suddenly
|
||
condensing when it contacts the freezing cold gas.
|
||
Almost any reaction that produces large amounts of gas from a much
|
||
smaller volume can be used. One common variation is the use of Drano*
|
||
crystals and shredded aluminum foil. When water is added the Drano, which
|
||
is mainly lye (an extremely caustic substance), dissolves in the water and
|
||
reacts with the aluminum, producing heat and hydrogen gas. If the heat
|
||
doesn't melt the bottle the pressure will eventually cause it to rupture,
|
||
spraying caustic liquid and releasing a large quantity of (flammable)
|
||
hydrogen gas, as well as some water vapor.
|
||
Another interesting reaction is adding managanese dioxide to hydrogen
|
||
peroxide. The manganese dioxide is a catalyst that allows the hydrogen
|
||
peroxide to release the extra oxygen atom, yielding free oxygen and water:
|
||
|
||
2H2O2 + MgO2 2H2O +O2 + MgO2
|
||
|
||
It may be possible to combine the drain opener reaction with the
|
||
hydrogen peroxide reaction, yielding heat, oxygen, and hydrogen. When mixed
|
||
in the proper proportion these three components can yield a very powerful
|
||
explosion from the violently exothermic reaction of the hydrogen and oxygen.
|
||
Preliminary experiments have shown that the drain opener reaction tends to
|
||
proceed much more quickly than the peroxide reaction, and it often produces
|
||
enough excess heat to cause the bottle to rupture prematurely.
|
||
Another possible reaction is pool chlorine tablets (usually calcium
|
||
hypochlorite) and household ammonia. This reaction produces poisonous
|
||
chlorine gas. Baking soda and vinegar have been tried, but the reaction seems
|
||
to become inhibited by the rising pressure.
|
||
There are also many variations possible when using dry ice. If a
|
||
bottle that is not dissolved by acetone (such as most 2-L soda bottles) is
|
||
used, the curshed dry ice can be mixed with acetone. This will greatly speed
|
||
up the reaction, since unlike water, acetone remains a liquid at very low
|
||
temperatures. One hazard (benefit?) of adding acetone is that the rupturing
|
||
bottle will spray cold acetone around in liquid form. This can be very
|
||
hazardous, since acetone is a very powerful solvent, and is extremely
|
||
flammable.
|
||
|
||
:USING EXPLOSIVES
|
||
|
||
Once a person has produced his explosives, the next logical step is
|
||
to apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from entertainment to
|
||
extreme destruction.
|
||
|
||
NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER
|
||
IN PART OR IN FULL. PLANNING OR EXECUTING ANY OF THESE IDEAS CAN LEAD TO
|
||
PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!
|
||
|
||
The first step a person that would use explosive would take would be
|
||
to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to achieve the
|
||
desired effect. Then, he would have to decide what materials to use, based
|
||
on what is currently available. He would also have to decide on how he
|
||
wanted to initiate the device, and determine where the best placement for
|
||
it would be. Finally, one must produce the device without unacceptable risk
|
||
to ones own life.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Ignition Devices
|
||
|
||
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
|
||
"place on ground, light fuse and get away" approach, and there are position
|
||
or movement sensitive switches, and many things in between. Generally,
|
||
electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when
|
||
fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry
|
||
a sophisticated electrical detonation system into a stadium, for instance,
|
||
without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact detonating fuze would
|
||
be easier to hide.
|
||
|
||
Fuse Ignition
|
||
|
||
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
|
||
type of ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in
|
||
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Fuses are certainly the
|
||
the most economical and commonyl available means of ignition.
|
||
Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of
|
||
about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse in
|
||
most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a package of ten feet. Cannon
|
||
fuse is a popular ignition system for use in pipe bombs because of its
|
||
simplicity and reliability. All that need be done is light it with a match
|
||
or lighter. Of course, if the Army had only fuses like this, then the
|
||
grenade, which uses a form of fuse ignition, would be very impractical. If
|
||
a grenade ignition system can be acquired, by all means use it, it is the
|
||
most effective. There are several varieties of pull-ring igniters available,
|
||
sources for some are listed in the appendices. The next best thing to a
|
||
pull-ring system is to prepare a fuse system which does not require the use
|
||
of a match or lighter, but still retains a level of simplicity. One such
|
||
method is described below:
|
||
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
strike-on-cover type matches
|
||
electrical tape
|
||
waterproof fuse
|
||
|
||
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply
|
||
measure a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch,
|
||
press the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the
|
||
watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length
|
||
of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This
|
||
will be shown below:
|
||
|
||
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
|
||
of combustion is 20 seconds.
|
||
|
||
20 seconds / 8 inches = 2.5 seconds per inch.
|
||
|
||
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the
|
||
desired time by the number of seconds per inch:
|
||
|
||
10 seconds / 2.5 seconds per inch = 4 inches
|
||
|
||
Note: The length of fuse here means length of fuse to the powder. Some
|
||
fuse, at least an inch, should extend inside the device. always add this
|
||
extra inch, and always put it inside the device.
|
||
|
||
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive
|
||
device is to go off, add about <20> inch to the pre-measured amount of fuse,
|
||
and cut it off.
|
||
|
||
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case.
|
||
Do not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the
|
||
cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the
|
||
other one to make a second igniter.
|
||
|
||
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
|
||
matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making
|
||
sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure
|
||
by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to
|
||
move.
|
||
|
||
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the
|
||
fuse, making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the
|
||
striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around
|
||
the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the
|
||
matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
|
||
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
|
||
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the match
|
||
heads when the match book is pulled.
|
||
|
||
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull
|
||
the striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light
|
||
them. In turn, the burning match heads will light the fuse, since it
|
||
adjacent to the burning match heads.
|
||
|
||
Making Blackmatch Fuse
|
||
|
||
Take a flat piece of plastic or metal (brass or aluminum are easy to
|
||
work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th inch hole through it. This is
|
||
your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses as big as you want, but
|
||
this is the right size for pipe bombs and other rigid casings.
|
||
To about <20> cup of black powder add water to make a thin paste. Add
|
||
<EFBFBD> teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton thread. Use
|
||
cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these together
|
||
until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can be drawn
|
||
through very easily.
|
||
Tie your bundle of threads together at one end. Separate the threads
|
||
and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture. Lower the threads with
|
||
a circular motion so they start curling onto the mixture. Press them under
|
||
with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering them so they coil into the
|
||
paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it through the die. Pull it
|
||
through smoothly in one long motion.
|
||
To dry your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in
|
||
your 250<35> oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The
|
||
fuse must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to
|
||
later. Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will
|
||
not dry completely at room temperatures.
|
||
Cut the dry fuse with scissors into 2 inch lengths and store in an air
|
||
tight container. Handle this fuse careful to avoid breaking it. You can
|
||
also use a firecracker fuse if you have any available. The fuses can
|
||
usually be pulled out without breaking. To give yourself some running time,
|
||
you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or firecracker fuse) with
|
||
sulfured wick.
|
||
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
|
||
home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about <20> cup of
|
||
boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
|
||
cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string
|
||
dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes,
|
||
the end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of
|
||
black powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition,
|
||
since the slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature.
|
||
A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture
|
||
of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet
|
||
paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that it resembles
|
||
a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
|
||
|
||
Making Sulfured Wick
|
||
|
||
There are several ways to make sulfured wick, One method is to use heavy
|
||
cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find it at a garden
|
||
supply or hardware store, it is often used for tieing up tomatoes. Be sure
|
||
the string is cotton, and not some form of synthetic fabric. You can test
|
||
it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is
|
||
removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put a
|
||
small quanitity of sulfur in a small container (a small pie pan works well)
|
||
and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees Fahrenheit.
|
||
The sulfur will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts
|
||
turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into
|
||
it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out
|
||
and tie it up to cool and harden.
|
||
It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about
|
||
right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out
|
||
easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal
|
||
pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off
|
||
many sparks. This is quite unlike blackmatch, which generates sparks which
|
||
can ignite it along its length causing much less predictable burning times.
|
||
|
||
Making Quickmatch Fuse
|
||
|
||
Sometimes it is desirable to have a reliable, fast burning fuse,
|
||
rather than to use slow fuse. Quickmatch fuse burns almost instantaneously,
|
||
and is useful when two items, located some distance apart, need to be
|
||
ignited at the same time.
|
||
The simplest way to make quickmatch is to enclose a length of
|
||
blackmatch fuse in a tube with an inside diameter about twice the diameter
|
||
of the fuse. When one end is lit, the fuse will burn through the tube within
|
||
a couple seconds. This is because the tube helps the sparks from the
|
||
blackmatch to propagate down the length of the fuse.
|
||
Another simple method of making quickmatch is to purchase a roll of
|
||
extra-wide masking tape (1<>-2 inches works well). Unwind a few feet of tape,
|
||
then pour a trail of blackpowder or pyrodex down the middle, making sure to
|
||
leave <20>" of the tape on the right side clean of powder. When the rest of the
|
||
tape is completely covered with powder, fold the left side over to within
|
||
<EFBFBD>" of the right edge, then fold the (clean) right side over the left and
|
||
press it in place. The finished quickmatch should now be held by one end to
|
||
allow the excess powder to drain out. If multiple devices are to be attached
|
||
to the quickmatch, a small hole can be poked at the appropriate spot and an
|
||
inch of blackmatch fuse should be inserted at that point.
|
||
Quickmatch is easily damaged by water, and should not be flattened out
|
||
as that will limit its effectiveness. If the fuse has a tendency to go out,
|
||
coarser grained powder should be used.
|
||
|
||
Impact Ignition
|
||
|
||
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for any device that
|
||
is intended to be employed as a projectile. The problem with an impact
|
||
igniting device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it
|
||
will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be
|
||
used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator.
|
||
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
|
||
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one
|
||
such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50.
|
||
To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on.
|
||
Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has
|
||
to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples
|
||
have a hole that goes all the way through them, one of the ends is threaded,
|
||
and the other end has a flat area to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple
|
||
is shown below:
|
||
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
|
||
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then
|
||
screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried
|
||
and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a
|
||
small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays
|
||
in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb
|
||
is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By
|
||
attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the
|
||
primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and
|
||
explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off
|
||
on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is
|
||
also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
|
||
|
||
MAGICUBE* Ignitor
|
||
|
||
A very sensitive and reliable impact initiator can be produced from
|
||
the common MAGICUBE type camera flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover
|
||
off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a
|
||
small metal rod holding it in place.
|
||
|
||
Carefully grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry
|
||
gently upwards, making sure that no force is applied to the glass bulb.
|
||
|
||
Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to
|
||
be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the
|
||
bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the
|
||
plastic can be easily peeled away.
|
||
The best method of using these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose
|
||
based smokeless powder (or make your own nitrocellulose see page 19)in a
|
||
small quantity of acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste.
|
||
Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the
|
||
metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be
|
||
completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated
|
||
over the remainder of the bulb then ignition should be very reliable.
|
||
To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer
|
||
can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air
|
||
the appropriate end will hit the ground first.
|
||
Electrical Ignition
|
||
|
||
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
|
||
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
|
||
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two
|
||
spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from
|
||
a comfortable and relatively safe distance, and be sure that there is nobody
|
||
around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control
|
||
exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second.
|
||
Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person
|
||
suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll
|
||
by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and
|
||
model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well.
|
||
Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00
|
||
per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and
|
||
run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they
|
||
are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through
|
||
them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT
|
||
detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. These relatively insensitive
|
||
explosives require a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are,
|
||
however, military explosive squibs which will do the job.
|
||
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, HMDT,
|
||
or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
|
||
|
||
|
||
A Simple Electric Fuze
|
||
|
||
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind
|
||
it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to
|
||
the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill
|
||
the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight
|
||
batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Another Electric Fuze
|
||
|
||
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach
|
||
it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few
|
||
turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the
|
||
wire. You want about <20> inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18
|
||
or 20 is a good size wire to use.
|
||
Cut a <20> by 1 inch piece of thin cardboard of (the type used in match
|
||
covers is ideal). Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center
|
||
and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in
|
||
contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
|
||
The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything
|
||
else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact
|
||
with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and
|
||
fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the
|
||
powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the
|
||
other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Electro-mechanical Ignition
|
||
|
||
|
||
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
|
||
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type
|
||
of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the
|
||
person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when
|
||
it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be
|
||
discussed.
|
||
|
||
Mercury Switches
|
||
|
||
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
|
||
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at
|
||
room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two
|
||
electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
|
||
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
|
||
to explain a mercury switch.
|
||
|
||
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches
|
||
both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch
|
||
was in its present position, A---B, current would not be flowing. If the
|
||
switch was rotated 90 degrees so the wires were pointed down, the mercury
|
||
would touch both contacts in that vertical position.
|
||
If, however, it was in the vertical position, the drop of mercury
|
||
would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow,
|
||
since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the
|
||
vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it
|
||
were placed in the path of a swinging door in the versicle position, the
|
||
motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground
|
||
by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the versicle position,
|
||
causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through
|
||
the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device.
|
||
|
||
Trip wire Switches
|
||
|
||
A trip wire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a
|
||
nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a
|
||
victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be
|
||
caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would
|
||
one use such a trip wire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By
|
||
wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing
|
||
something between them, and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact,
|
||
an electric trip wire can be made, If a piece of wood attached to the trip
|
||
wire was placed between the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would
|
||
serve as a switch. When the trip wire was pulled, the clothespin would snap
|
||
together, allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil,
|
||
thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib in it.
|
||
Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or squib, heating the
|
||
igniter or squib and causing it to explode. Make sure that the aluminum foil
|
||
contacts do not touch the spring, since the spring also conducts
|
||
electricity.
|
||
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
Radio Control Detonators
|
||
|
||
In the movies, every assassin and criminal uses a radio controlled
|
||
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
|
||
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it
|
||
explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with
|
||
radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could
|
||
possibly be a reason that one would be willing to spend the amounts of money
|
||
involved with a radio control system and use it as a detonator. If such an
|
||
individual wanted to devise an radio controlled detonator, all he would need
|
||
to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio
|
||
controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have
|
||
to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front
|
||
wheels of a car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a
|
||
radio controlled airplane, or the rudder of a boat, and re-connect the squib
|
||
or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device
|
||
should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged
|
||
batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that
|
||
used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
|
||
One interesting variation on this method is to adapt a mundane device
|
||
to serve as a remote detonator. Radio pagers are ideal for this purpose.
|
||
Alpha-numeric display pagers can be rented for around $20 per month, and the
|
||
display can easily be wired to a detonation device. The pager number can be
|
||
called from anywhere in the world, and when the appropriate message is
|
||
entered the device is triggered. Similarly, a cellular telephone could be
|
||
adapted to respond in the same manner.
|
||
|
||
Delays
|
||
|
||
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
|
||
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it
|
||
would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section
|
||
deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by an
|
||
antisocial person who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants
|
||
to be out of the country when it does.
|
||
|
||
Fuse Delays
|
||
|
||
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses
|
||
for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An
|
||
average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the tar and
|
||
nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low tar and nicotine
|
||
cigarettes burn quicker than the higher tar and nicotine cigarettes, but
|
||
they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked.
|
||
Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high tar cigarette is
|
||
better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind
|
||
or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use
|
||
cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes
|
||
that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how
|
||
long it will burn. Once the burning rate of a brand of cigarette is
|
||
determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
|
||
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the
|
||
fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|
||
|
||
Improved Cigarette Delay
|
||
|
||
A variation on the standard cigarette display was invented by my good
|
||
friend John A. (THE Pyromaniac). Rather than inserting the fuse into the
|
||
SIDE of the cigarette (and risk splitting it) half of the filter is cut off,
|
||
and a small hole is punched THROUGH the remainder of the filter and into the
|
||
tobacco.
|
||
The fuse is inserted as far as possible into this hole, then taped or
|
||
glued in place, or the cigarette can be cut and punched ahead of time and
|
||
lit as if you intended to smoke it, then attached to the fuse at the scene.
|
||
Taking a few puffs can help prevent the cigarette from going out, as well
|
||
as improving your chances of dying from lung cancer.
|
||
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a
|
||
sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill
|
||
it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and
|
||
insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must
|
||
be doused with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of
|
||
gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting
|
||
such a delay. A chain of charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by
|
||
merely lining up a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end
|
||
on end, and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at
|
||
almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a fairly
|
||
reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an incense stick,
|
||
delays of up to an hour are possible.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Random Electronic Delay
|
||
|
||
An interesting delay mechanism that provides an random delay can be
|
||
produced from the following items:
|
||
|
||
Relay (2) 9V batteries Wire
|
||
Soldering Iron(2) 9V battery connectors(2) SPST switches
|
||
|
||
1) Solder 2 wires to the relay. The first wire should be soldered to
|
||
one side of the coil (or the appropriate contact) and the other wire should
|
||
be soldered to the center contact of the ralay switch.
|
||
|
||
2) Solder a SPST switch to each of the wires, and solder the red wire
|
||
from each of the 9V battery connectors to the other pole of each switch.
|
||
|
||
3) Solder the other wire from the 9V connector that is attached to the
|
||
switch for the relay coil to the other side of the relay coil.
|
||
|
||
4) solder the other wire from the second 9V connector to one wire from
|
||
an electric squib or detonator. The other wire from the squib is soldered
|
||
to the normally closed contact of the relay.
|
||
|
||
5) Making sure that both switches are open, attach both batteries to
|
||
their respective connector.
|
||
|
||
When you're ready to use the device, close the first switch (the one
|
||
that energizes the relay's coil). Make sure that you hear a CLICK! The click
|
||
signifies that it is safe to throw the second switch.
|
||
The squib will blow when the 9V battery that is powering the relay's
|
||
coils runs out of power, or if the first switch (the one powering the relay)
|
||
is thrown before the second switch.
|
||
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
|
||
Timer Delays
|
||
|
||
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual
|
||
who wishes to preset the exact moment of detonation. There are several ways
|
||
to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time
|
||
that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other
|
||
contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be
|
||
removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired. One problem with
|
||
this method is that many new alarm clocks do not have sufficent torque to
|
||
make a good contact between the hour hand and the screw or metal pin. Also,
|
||
many clocks have plstic hands, or the metal hands may be coated with an
|
||
insulating substance. Any timer made in this manner should be tested several
|
||
times to ensure that the circuit closes consistently.
|
||
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be
|
||
set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such
|
||
as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible.
|
||
First the speaker should be removed and a meter attached to the wires, to
|
||
check if there is any current flowing when the alarm is not active. You
|
||
should also check to see how much current is provided when the alarm goes
|
||
off.The wires should be attached to a small switch, and then to a squib or
|
||
igniter. In this manner a timer with a delay of over 23 hours can be made.
|
||
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired
|
||
time, connect the leads, and leave the area. This could also be done with
|
||
an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the
|
||
speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This could be very
|
||
effective, since such a timer could be extremely small.
|
||
There are a few dangers inherent in this method of making timers.
|
||
Sveral people have blown themselves up by not taking into account some of
|
||
the factors. Some clocks will activate the speaker when the time is set, or
|
||
when the power is turned on or off.
|
||
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) is ideal. VCR's can
|
||
usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the
|
||
recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be
|
||
connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would
|
||
be work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay,
|
||
or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch
|
||
would not have to be stepped up.
|
||
|
||
Chemical Delays
|
||
|
||
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
|
||
some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on
|
||
England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even
|
||
days after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying
|
||
effect on the British citizenry.
|
||
If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and
|
||
capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
|
||
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with
|
||
aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the
|
||
container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the
|
||
hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
|
||
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and
|
||
secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it
|
||
can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
|
||
Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that
|
||
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath
|
||
the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will
|
||
be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the
|
||
acid. The acid will also react with potassium chlorate or potassium
|
||
permanganate, see below.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Spontaneous Combustion
|
||
|
||
Some of the ingredients for these can only be had from a chemical
|
||
supply while others can be obtained with a little effort.
|
||
|
||
Scatter out approx. 5 g of chromic anhydride. add 2 drops of ethyl
|
||
alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.
|
||
|
||
Measure by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium
|
||
nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Make sure that all the powders are very
|
||
dry, and mix in a clean dry vessel. Pour out a small pile of this and make
|
||
a depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression. Stay
|
||
well back from this.
|
||
|
||
Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of
|
||
sodium peroxide on top of this. A volume the size of a small pea is about
|
||
right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.
|
||
|
||
Measure by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts
|
||
concentrated nitric acid. Mix the two acids in a large pyrex beaker. Hold
|
||
a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the mixture. When drops strike
|
||
the acid they will burst into flame.
|
||
|
||
Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate and
|
||
potassium permanganate. If a few drops of sulfuric acid are added to a pile
|
||
of either of these oxidizers, the pile will burst into flame within seconds.
|
||
|
||
Most of the above mixtures can have other chemicals added to them
|
||
(oxidizers, powdered metals) and can be placed on the top of a pile of a
|
||
flammable substance, or used to start a fuse.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:EXPLOSIVE CASINGS
|
||
|
||
|
||
This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker
|
||
to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive, both
|
||
of which are methods that could be utilized by protectors of the rights of
|
||
the common man.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Paper Containers
|
||
|
||
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
|
||
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually
|
||
very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible
|
||
uses for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in
|
||
firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper,
|
||
and gluing it together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more
|
||
interesting and dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown
|
||
here is one of Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The
|
||
process of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football.
|
||
If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide,
|
||
and folds one corner into a triangle which lines up on the top of the sheet,
|
||
then folds that end of the paper over in another triangle, a pocket is
|
||
formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex, flash powder,
|
||
gunpowder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-oxidizer mixtures that occur in
|
||
the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the
|
||
triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the explosive. When
|
||
the polumna is finished, it should be taped together very tightly, since
|
||
this will increase the strength of the container, and produce a louder and
|
||
more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished polumna should look
|
||
like a thin triangle of paper, less than <20> inch thick.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Metal Containers
|
||
|
||
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
|
||
explosive. Less fortunate pyrotechnicians take white tipped matches and cut
|
||
off the heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in
|
||
the white tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process
|
||
often kills the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very
|
||
easily cause enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite
|
||
and explode the unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is
|
||
somewhat safer, and any person who desires to retain of their limbs would
|
||
never use white tipped matches in a bomb. Regular matches may still be
|
||
ignited by friction, but it is far less likely than with "strike-anywhere"
|
||
matches.
|
||
First, one needs to obtain a length of water pipe and two caps. For
|
||
obvious reasons, it is best not to buy all three items from the same store.
|
||
The pipe should not be more than six times as long as its diameter.
|
||
Next, the pipes and caps are cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and rubber
|
||
gloves are put on. The pipe is allowed to dry, and never handled with bare
|
||
hands. If the outside of a glove it touched, and then the pipe is handled
|
||
with that glove, it is possible to transfer a fingerprint onto the pipe.
|
||
A hole is drilled one pipe cap, and a fuse is placed through the hole.
|
||
If a bit of tissue paper is packed around the fuse on the inside of the
|
||
cap, the fuse will not come out during handling, and powder will be unable
|
||
to escape if the pipe is inverted. The fuse would extend at least an inch
|
||
inside the pipe. There are several possible variations in fusing pipes.
|
||
One bomber in New York City used 3 inch diameter pipes, each a foot
|
||
long. He would solder a six inch piece of copper tubing to the inside of the
|
||
pipe cap, and extend the fuse down this tube. The end of the fuse was tied
|
||
into a knot, just big enough to block the copper pipe so powder would not
|
||
enter. This added some delay once the fuse burned down into the pipe, and
|
||
it also caused the powder to start burning from the center outward, creating
|
||
a more uniform blast effect.
|
||
One famous pipe bomber used large diameter pipes with four holes
|
||
drilled into each of the end caps. Each hole had a length of threaded steel
|
||
rod run through it, and extending about <20> inch from both end caps. These
|
||
rods were held in place by heavy nuts on both ends of all four rods. The
|
||
intention of this was to help the pipe stay intact until all the powder had
|
||
burned, to increase the effective power of the bomb.
|
||
Once the fused end cap is prepared, the cap would be screwed on
|
||
tightly. To help secure it, a drop of Loctite* could be added to the
|
||
threads. The pipe could now be filled with any fast burning powder. Packing
|
||
the powder down is very dangerous, and does not increase the force of the
|
||
explosion. It will increase the amount of smoke and flames produced by the
|
||
bomb.
|
||
The pipe is usually filled to within an inch of the end, and a large
|
||
wad of tissue paper ( Many brands of tissue paper, including Kleenex*, are
|
||
moisturized and should not be used) is packed into the pipe to keep any
|
||
powder from getting onto the threads.
|
||
Finally, the other pipe cap would be screwed in place. If the tissue
|
||
paper is not used, some of the powder could be caught in the threads of the
|
||
pipe or pipe cap. This powder would be crushed, and the friction can ignite
|
||
the powder, which could be very detrimental to the health of the builder.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: The metal caps are very difficult to drill holes in, it is much easier
|
||
to drill a hole into the middle of the pipe (before it is filled!) and
|
||
thread the fuse through this opening.
|
||
|
||
Many people have had great success with this design. According to an
|
||
old german by the name of Lionel. After detonating one of these inside a
|
||
cookie tin, found the lid about 1/2 block away, the sides of the tin blown
|
||
out, and an impression of the pipe, (which was later found blown flat)
|
||
threads and all on the bottom of the tin... it seems that the welded seam
|
||
gives out on most modern rolled pipes, however a cast pipe (no seam) would
|
||
produce more shrapnel (which may or may not be desirable).
|
||
This is one possible design. If, however, one does not have access to
|
||
threaded pipe with end caps, you could always use a piece of copper or
|
||
aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable configuration. A
|
||
major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding it without
|
||
tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper pipe,
|
||
it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb out
|
||
of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and end caps.
|
||
|
||
Pipe Bombs From Soft Metal Pipes
|
||
|
||
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully,
|
||
making sure not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe
|
||
should be folded over at least once, carefully so as not to rip the pipe.
|
||
A fuse hole should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the
|
||
fuse should be inserted.
|
||
Next, the bomb-builder would partially fill the casing with a low
|
||
order explosive, and pack the remaining space with a large wad of tissue
|
||
paper. He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair
|
||
of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the
|
||
process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set off the
|
||
explosive.
|
||
|
||
Carbon Dioxide "Pellet Gun" or Seltzer cartridges.
|
||
|
||
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for a
|
||
low- order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming
|
||
to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge
|
||
with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the
|
||
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-
|
||
oxidizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called
|
||
"crater makers".
|
||
A cartridge is easiest to fill if you take a piece of paper and tape
|
||
it around the opening to form a sort of funnel. A new,full cartridge must
|
||
be emptied before it can be used. Once the gas is released, some
|
||
condensation may form on the inside. Use a punch or sharp phillips (+)
|
||
screwdriver to enlarge the pin-hole opening on a used cartridge. You can
|
||
place the empty cartridge in a warm oven to drive out any moisture.It may
|
||
not be necessary to seal the hole, but if you must do so, epoxy and
|
||
electrical tape should work quite well.
|
||
These cartridges also work well as a container for a thermite
|
||
incendiary device, but they must be modified. The opening in the end must
|
||
be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does
|
||
not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn,
|
||
would ignite the thermite. The burning thermite will melt the container and
|
||
release liquid iron.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Primed Explosive Casings
|
||
|
||
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for
|
||
low order explosives, but are unsuitable for high order explosives, since
|
||
the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a
|
||
smaller low order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high
|
||
order explosive would probably be used.
|
||
If the large high explosive container is relatively small, such as a
|
||
CO2 cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a
|
||
detonator and fitted with a fuse. THis tiny detonator can be inserted into
|
||
the cartridge.
|
||
|
||
Glass Containers
|
||
|
||
Glass containers can be suitable for low order explosives, but there
|
||
are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively
|
||
easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the not too
|
||
unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would probably
|
||
be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of a
|
||
sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and
|
||
he still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final
|
||
segment of his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying
|
||
glass.
|
||
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by
|
||
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
|
||
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is
|
||
fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits
|
||
tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
|
||
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practical,
|
||
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive
|
||
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger
|
||
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable
|
||
for high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not
|
||
withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high
|
||
explosive was able to detonate.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Plastic Containers
|
||
|
||
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
|
||
since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass.
|
||
Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device
|
||
much like the ones used for metal containers can be made. The high-order
|
||
version works well with plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of
|
||
plastic, it is not detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can
|
||
usually be shaped by heating the container, and bending it at the
|
||
appropriate place. They can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for
|
||
plastics. Epoxy alone can be used as an end cap, if a wad of tissue paper
|
||
is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type
|
||
of device.
|
||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before
|
||
the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece
|
||
of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy.
|
||
PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the
|
||
pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic
|
||
putties can be used in this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent
|
||
works best.
|
||
In my experience, epoxy plugs work well, but epoxy is somewhat
|
||
expensive. One alternative is auto body filler, a grey paste which, when
|
||
mixed with hardener, forms into a rock-like mass which is stronger than most
|
||
epoxy. The only drawback is the body filler generates quite a bit of heat
|
||
as it hardens, which might be enough to set of a overly sensitive explosive.
|
||
One benefit of body filler is that it will hold it's shape quite well, and
|
||
is ideal for forming rocket nozzles and entire bomb casings.
|
||
|
||
Film Canisters
|
||
|
||
For a relatively low shrapnel explosion, you could try pouring it into an
|
||
empty 35mm film canister. Poke a hole in the plastic lid for a fuse. These
|
||
goodies make an explosion that is easily audible a mile away, but creates
|
||
almost no shrapnel. One a day with no wind, adding extra fuel (like
|
||
fine charcoal) can produce the classic mushroom cloud.
|
||
|
||
There are several important safety rules to follow, in addition to the
|
||
usual rules for working with flash powder.
|
||
|
||
1) Make a hole and insert the fuse before putting any powder into the canister.
|
||
2) Don't get any powder on the lip of the canister.
|
||
3) Only use a very small quantity to start with, and work your way up to the desired
|
||
effect.
|
||
4) Do not pack the powder, it works best loose and firction can cause ignition.
|
||
5) Use a long fuse, these are very dangerous close up.
|
||
|
||
Book Bombs
|
||
|
||
One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is called a book
|
||
bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of a book.
|
||
Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of the
|
||
hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
|
||
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual
|
||
makes a book into a bomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is
|
||
appropriate for the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual
|
||
construction of a book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric
|
||
drill and a coping saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued
|
||
together. By pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large
|
||
bucket, and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can
|
||
be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the
|
||
glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution
|
||
has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-
|
||
water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked.
|
||
It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck
|
||
to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the book
|
||
by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vise works best. When
|
||
the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must be drilled into
|
||
the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood. Then, by
|
||
inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a rectangle
|
||
from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell of the
|
||
book's pages.
|
||
The rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
|
||
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio
|
||
controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself,
|
||
and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent
|
||
it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the
|
||
radio control has been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the
|
||
bomb is taken to its destination.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
|
||
|
||
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
|
||
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Advanced uses for
|
||
explosives usually involved shaped charges, or utilize a minimum amount of
|
||
explosive to do a maximum amount of damage. They almost always involve
|
||
high- order explosives.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Shaped Charges
|
||
|
||
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
|
||
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can
|
||
be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions
|
||
of pounds of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges
|
||
employ high-order explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. Keep
|
||
in mind that all explosives are dangerous, and should never be made or
|
||
used!! all the procedures described in this book are for informational
|
||
purposes only.
|
||
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
|
||
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the
|
||
opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening
|
||
in the explosive material. This cone should be formed with a 45<34> angle. A
|
||
device such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a
|
||
powerful electromagnet.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Tube Explosives
|
||
|
||
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways
|
||
that shaped charges cannot. If a piece of <20> inch diameter plastic tubing was
|
||
filled with a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the
|
||
plastic explosive container on page 53, a different sort of shaped charge
|
||
could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a circular
|
||
manner. This type of explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a
|
||
doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be directed in and out,
|
||
and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped around.
|
||
When the user wishes to use a tube bomb, it must first be wrapped
|
||
around the object to be demolished, after which the ends are connected
|
||
together. The user can connect wires to the squib wires, and detonate the
|
||
bomb with any method of electric detonation.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Atomized Particle Explosions
|
||
|
||
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very
|
||
small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an
|
||
explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is
|
||
produced. The vaporized gasoline/air mixture burns explosively, and the hot
|
||
gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of
|
||
gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very possible that
|
||
the expanding gassed could push the walls of the building down. This
|
||
phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion if a solid is used, or
|
||
a fuel/air explosive if the material is a gas or liquid.
|
||
If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly
|
||
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building,
|
||
bridge, or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for
|
||
example, can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high
|
||
explosive. If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high
|
||
explosive charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly
|
||
be atomized and ignited.
|
||
If this occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle
|
||
explosion would surely occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would
|
||
be necessary to accomplish this, 7 ounces of T.N.T. or 3 ounces of R.D.X
|
||
should be sufficient to atomize the contents of a gallon container. Also,
|
||
instead of gasoline, powdered aluminum, coal dust or even flour could be
|
||
used for a similar effect.
|
||
It is necessary that a high explosive be used to atomize a flammable
|
||
material, since a low-order explosion does not occur quickly enough to
|
||
atomize and will simply ignite the flammable material.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
|
||
|
||
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social
|
||
deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage over
|
||
individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit can cause extreme
|
||
damage. Special ammunition can be made for many types of weapons, from
|
||
crossbows to shotguns.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition For Primitive Weapons
|
||
|
||
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
|
||
primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile
|
||
forward. This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and slingshots. Primitive
|
||
weapons can be made from commonly available materials, and a well made
|
||
weapon will last for years.
|
||
|
||
Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
|
||
|
||
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
|
||
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult
|
||
matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire
|
||
aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the
|
||
entire segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that
|
||
detonates upon impact, or with a fuse.
|
||
All that need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and
|
||
diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube
|
||
with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up
|
||
to about <20> inch from the top.
|
||
Cut a slot in the piece of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of
|
||
the tube into a round point, making sure to leave a small hole. Place a no.
|
||
11 percussion cap over the hole, and secure it with super glue or epoxy.
|
||
Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical or duct tape, and
|
||
make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting goods store,
|
||
and glued to the shaft.
|
||
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
|
||
explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for Blowguns
|
||
|
||
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
|
||
A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive
|
||
or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile
|
||
is not difficult.
|
||
Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use of a pill
|
||
capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies. Empty
|
||
gelatin pill capsules can be purchased from most health-food stores. Next,
|
||
the capsule would be filled with an impact-sensitive explosive, such as
|
||
mercury fulminate. An additional high explosive charge could be placed
|
||
behind the impact sensitive explosive, if one of the larger capsules were
|
||
used.
|
||
Finally, the explosive capsule would be reglued back together, and a
|
||
tassel or cotton would be glued to the end containing the high explosive,
|
||
to insure that the impact-detonating explosive struck the target first.
|
||
Care must be taken- if a powerful dart went off in the blowgun, you
|
||
could easily blow the back of your head off.
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for Slingshots
|
||
|
||
A modern slingshot is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter
|
||
marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could
|
||
well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because
|
||
of the relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a slingshot,
|
||
the sling can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.
|
||
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-
|
||
detonating device by filling it with an impact sensitive explosive material.
|
||
Also, such a pipe could be filled with a low order explosive, and
|
||
fitted with a fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One
|
||
would have to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure
|
||
that the device did not explode before it reached its intended target.
|
||
Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22
|
||
caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for slingshots, but
|
||
they must be used at a relatively close range, because of their light
|
||
weight.
|
||
One company, Beeman, makes an extremely powerful slingshot which can
|
||
fire short arrows, as well as the usual array of ball ammo. These
|
||
slingshots can be used with the modified crossbow ammunition.
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS ARE AVAILABLE WITH THE COMMERICIAL PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition For Firearms
|
||
|
||
Firearms were first invented by the ancient chinese. They soon
|
||
realized that these weapons, even in a primitive form, were one of the most
|
||
potent to overthrow a government. The authorities encouraged the
|
||
metalworkers to apply their skills to less socially threatening weapons,
|
||
upon pain of death.
|
||
|
||
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
|
||
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a small army
|
||
with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive ammunition, but that
|
||
can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can also be manufactured in the
|
||
home. There is, however, a risk involved with modifying any ammunition.
|
||
If the ammunition is modified incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the
|
||
bullet even the slightest bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the
|
||
weapon will occur. For this reason, nobody should ever attempt to
|
||
manufacture such ammunition.
|
||
|
||
Pipe Guns (zip guns)
|
||
|
||
Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have been used for
|
||
years by juvenile punks. Today's militants make them just for the hell of
|
||
it or to shoot once in an assassination or riot and throw away if there is
|
||
any danger of apprehension.
|
||
They can often be used many times before exploding in the user's face.
|
||
With some designs, a length of dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.
|
||
There are many variations but the illustration shows the basic design.
|
||
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for the barrel to
|
||
rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to the stock with a good, strong
|
||
tape.
|
||
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is punched in the
|
||
trigger flap to hold a roofing nail, which is wired or soldered onto the
|
||
flap. The trigger is bent and nailed to the stock on both sides.
|
||
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas or water pipe
|
||
with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet keeps the cartridge rim from
|
||
passing through the pipe.
|
||
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a hole bored
|
||
through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is slowly released to let the
|
||
nail pass through the hole and rest on the primer.
|
||
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand and held back
|
||
with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is then aimed and the thumb
|
||
releases the trigger and the thing actually fires.
|
||
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in any hardware
|
||
store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to the .45 are used in such guns.
|
||
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested within each
|
||
other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit snugly into a length of a car's
|
||
copper gas line. Unfortunately, the copper is too weak to withstand the
|
||
pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread with glue and
|
||
pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is spread with glue and pushed
|
||
into a length of steel pipe with threads and a cap.
|
||
Using this method, you can accommodate any cartridge, even a rifle
|
||
shell. The first (innermost) size of pipe for a rifle shell accommodates the
|
||
bullet. The second or outermost layer accommodates its wider powder chamber.
|
||
A simple and very dangerous (to the user and to the target) 12-gauge
|
||
shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel pipe. If you want to reduce the
|
||
number of gun law violations, the barrel should be at least eighteen inches
|
||
long.
|
||
The shotgun's firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol.
|
||
It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened into a rifle
|
||
butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way into each side of the stock
|
||
about four inches in the front of the trigger. The rubber band is put over
|
||
one nail and brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
|
||
In case a person actually made a zip gun, he would test it before
|
||
firing it by hand. This is done by securely mounting gun to a tree or post,
|
||
pointed to where it will do no damage. Then a long string is tied to the
|
||
trigger and the maniac holds it from several yards away. The string is then
|
||
pulled back and let go. If the barrel does not blow up, the gun might be
|
||
safe to fire by hand. Repeat firings may weaken the barrel, so NO zip gun
|
||
can be considered "safe" to use.
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for Handguns
|
||
|
||
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
|
||
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-
|
||
sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all
|
||
lead bullets, and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By
|
||
drilling a hole in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for
|
||
the placement of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive,
|
||
it would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.
|
||
|
||
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
|
||
In many spy thrillers, an assassin is depicted as manufacturing "exploding
|
||
bullets" by placing a drop of mercury in the nose of a bullet. Through
|
||
experimentation it has been found that this will not work. Mercury reacts
|
||
with lead to form a inert silvery compound, which may be poisonous, but will
|
||
not affect the terminal ballistics of the bullet.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for Shotguns
|
||
|
||
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create
|
||
some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a
|
||
shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be
|
||
re-closed. Special grenade-launching blanks can also be purchased. Then, if
|
||
one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the
|
||
bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-
|
||
launched weapons.
|
||
With the modified shell in the firing chamber, lightly insert the
|
||
dowel into the barrel of the shotgun. Mark the dowel about six inches above
|
||
the muzzle, and remove it from the barrel. The dowel should be cut at this
|
||
point, and the length recorded. Several rods can be cut from a single length
|
||
of dowel rod.
|
||
Next, a device should be chosen. Moderately impact-sensitive igniters
|
||
are ideal, or a long fuse can be used. This device can be a chemical fire
|
||
bottle (see page 31), a pipe bomb (page 52), or a thermite bomb (page 30).
|
||
After the device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When
|
||
this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun when ready to fire.
|
||
After checking that the device has a long enough fuse, or that the
|
||
impact igniter is armed, light the fuse (if necessary), and fire the
|
||
shotgun at an angle of 45 degrees or greater. If the projectile is not too
|
||
heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible if special "grenade-launcher
|
||
blanks" are used- use of regular blank ammunition may cause the device to
|
||
land perilously close to the user.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for Compressed Air/Gas Weapons
|
||
|
||
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
|
||
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B guns, gas powered
|
||
B.B guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although usually thought
|
||
of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous weapons.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for BB Guns
|
||
|
||
A BB gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle
|
||
or pistol that uses compressed air or gas to fire a projectile with a
|
||
caliber of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as
|
||
high a muzzle velocity as a modern firearm rifle. Because of the speed at
|
||
which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can
|
||
easily be made that has a caliber of .177.
|
||
Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use primers to
|
||
ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun stores,
|
||
since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers detonate
|
||
when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if they
|
||
impact any a hard surface at high speed.
|
||
Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If
|
||
they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate when the gun is fired
|
||
at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached to a piece of thin metal
|
||
tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the tube can be filled with an
|
||
explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A diagram of such a
|
||
projectile appears below:
|
||
|
||
(Ill. 5.31)
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.
|
||
The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued
|
||
on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear
|
||
primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The
|
||
entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Special Ammunition for .22 Caliber Pellet Guns
|
||
|
||
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
|
||
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can
|
||
be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles.
|
||
A design based on glycerine medicne capsules is suitable, since some
|
||
capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in
|
||
section 5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder
|
||
percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are percussion
|
||
caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small, but anything
|
||
larger will do nicely.
|
||
|
||
|
||
ROCKETS AND CANNONS
|
||
|
||
|
||
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
|
||
Private citizens do not usually employ such devices, because they are
|
||
difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however, impossible to
|
||
make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder or pyrodex can produce
|
||
and fire long range cannons and rockets.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Rockets
|
||
|
||
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
|
||
before the myth of christ began. They were used for entertainment, in the
|
||
form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because
|
||
they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times,
|
||
however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap,
|
||
reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot
|
||
obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model
|
||
rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an
|
||
engine is required.
|
||
Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model
|
||
rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can
|
||
develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large
|
||
explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri,
|
||
produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 ft lbs. of
|
||
thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to
|
||
be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections.
|
||
|
||
[ ILLUSTRATIONS AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
|
||
|
||
The clay nozzle at the bottom is where the igniter is inserted. When
|
||
the area labelled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large
|
||
single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing
|
||
large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle,
|
||
pushing the rocket forward.
|
||
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine
|
||
is ignited. It is usually a slow burning material, similar to black powder
|
||
that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually
|
||
black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket
|
||
will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee.
|
||
When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge. The ejection
|
||
charge consists of finely powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, and
|
||
produce a large volume of hot gases. The explosion of the ejection charge
|
||
pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to
|
||
ignite a second stage, or to start a fuse.
|
||
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine
|
||
labels are: <20>A-2T, <20>A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
|
||
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as
|
||
"A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so
|
||
on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine,
|
||
in pounds. the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that
|
||
the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T"
|
||
indicates a 3 second delay.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing
|
||
aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron
|
||
oxide. The mixture is usually bound together by an epoxy.
|
||
|
||
Basic Rocket Bomb
|
||
|
||
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is
|
||
delivered to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make
|
||
such a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By
|
||
cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such
|
||
as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be constructed. Then, a small
|
||
explosive device would be added. To insure that the fuse of the device is
|
||
ignited, the clay over the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped
|
||
off with a plastic tool.
|
||
Duct tape is the best way to attach an explosive charge to the rocket
|
||
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge
|
||
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket,
|
||
such as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
|
||
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure
|
||
that the rocket flies straight. The fins should be symmetrically spaced.The
|
||
leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so that they
|
||
are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two inch long
|
||
section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it from.
|
||
A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of a
|
||
plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the
|
||
fins of the rocket.
|
||
By cutting a coat hanger and straightening it, a launch rod can be
|
||
made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is simply slid
|
||
down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic straw. The
|
||
rocket should slide easily along a coat hanger.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Long Range Rocket Bomb
|
||
|
||
Long range rockets can be made by using multi stage rockets. Model
|
||
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-
|
||
stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such
|
||
an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge
|
||
explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0"
|
||
engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and
|
||
burning particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the
|
||
thrust section. This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket,
|
||
causing an overall loss of weight.
|
||
The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as
|
||
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed
|
||
somewhat differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a
|
||
rocket to fly straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center
|
||
of drag. This is accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket,
|
||
or by moving the center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are
|
||
well behind the rocket. The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
|
||
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give
|
||
it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional
|
||
stage, the fin area gets larger.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Cannon
|
||
|
||
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th
|
||
century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,
|
||
loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each
|
||
shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired,
|
||
causing the barrel to explode.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Basic Pipe Cannon
|
||
|
||
Almost anyone can make a simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe.
|
||
The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its
|
||
interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam.
|
||
Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be
|
||
extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot
|
||
gasses in a cannon.
|
||
If one uses a projectile, such as a modified M-100 or similar device,
|
||
a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe must have
|
||
walls that are at least <20> inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior.
|
||
If possible, screw an end plug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be
|
||
crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small
|
||
hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or end plug. Then,
|
||
all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade
|
||
blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of
|
||
tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon
|
||
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person
|
||
is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit
|
||
by pieces of exploding barrel.
|
||
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
|
||
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
|
||
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
|
||
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except
|
||
for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a
|
||
tissue paper packing wad.
|
||
When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and
|
||
launch the cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about
|
||
three seconds, if all goes well.
|
||
Rocket Firing Cannon
|
||
|
||
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the
|
||
only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly
|
||
further than a rocket launched alone, since the action of shooting it
|
||
overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving
|
||
will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a
|
||
rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins.
|
||
The fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not
|
||
be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay
|
||
before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb
|
||
explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder
|
||
in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the
|
||
cannon at a high velocity.
|
||
|
||
Reinforced Pipe Cannon
|
||
|
||
In high school, a friend of mine built cannons and launched CO2
|
||
cartridges, etc. However, the design of the cannon is of interest here.
|
||
It was made from two sections of plain steel water pipe reinforced
|
||
with steel wire, and lead. The first section had in inside diamter of one
|
||
inch, and an outside diameter of an inch less than the inside diamter of the
|
||
second length of pipe. The smaller pipe was wrapped with steel wire and
|
||
placed inside the larger section.
|
||
They dug into the side of a sand pile and built a chimney out of
|
||
firebrick. Then they stood the assembled pipe and wire on end in the
|
||
chimney, sitting on some bricks. By using a blowtorch to heat up the
|
||
chimney, the pipe was heated until it was red hot. Then molten lead was
|
||
poured into the space between the pipes.
|
||
If the caps aren't screwed on tight, some of the lead will leak out.
|
||
If that happens, turn off the blowtorch and the pipe will cool enough and
|
||
the lead will stiffen and stop the leak.
|
||
They used both homemade and commercial black powder, and slow
|
||
smokeless shotgun powder in the cannon. Fast smokeless powder is not
|
||
reccomended, as it can generate pressures which will transform your cannon
|
||
into a large bomb.
|
||
After hundreds of shots they cut the cannon into several sections, and
|
||
cut two of these the long way and seperated the components. There was no
|
||
visible evidence of cracking or swelling of the inner pipe.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:VISUAL PYROTECHNICS
|
||
|
||
|
||
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that can be used. Smoke
|
||
bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large military smoke bombs can
|
||
be bought through advertisements in gun and military magazines. Even the
|
||
"harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists of a sort of firecracker
|
||
that explodes when the strings running through it are pulled, could be
|
||
placed inside a large charge of a sensitive explosive.
|
||
|
||
|
||
Smoke Bombs
|
||
|
||
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be deployed in many way
|
||
would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route, or
|
||
cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to
|
||
produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of
|
||
a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although
|
||
the military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium
|
||
compounds, these raw materials are difficult to obtain. Instead, these
|
||
devices can often be purchased through surplus stores, or one might make the
|
||
smoke bomb from scratch.
|
||
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder,
|
||
such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material
|
||
will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device
|
||
to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and
|
||
a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if
|
||
it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other
|
||
excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground
|
||
plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be
|
||
mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of
|
||
the fuel-oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke
|
||
when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The
|
||
trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic
|
||
cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the
|
||
smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material
|
||
to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic
|
||
containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites,
|
||
producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion.
|
||
|
||
Simple Smoke
|
||
|
||
There are many ways to produce moderate quantities of dense smoke from
|
||
simple materials. Motor oil works well, but is not good for the environment.
|
||
You can also mix six parts powdered zinc with one part powdered sulfur. This
|
||
mixture can be ignited by safety fuse or a red hot wire.this formula is very
|
||
similar to the zinc and sulfur rocket propellants used in some amateur
|
||
rocketry, and will produce pressure and much less smoke if confined.
|
||
|
||
Colored Flames
|
||
|
||
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device. by putting a
|
||
ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection
|
||
charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that
|
||
produce the different colors of flames appear below.
|
||
|
||
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
|
||
red strontium nitrate road flares
|
||
green barium nitrate green sparklers
|
||
yellow Sodium nitrate salt
|
||
blue copper (+ PVC) old pennies
|
||
white magnesium (use alone!) fire starters, tubing
|
||
purple potassium permanganate treating sewage
|
||
|
||
|
||
Fireworks
|
||
|
||
While fireworks are becoming much more difficult to obtain, it isn't
|
||
very difficult to produce quality hand-made pieces. The most important
|
||
factor in achieving a reliable firework is practice. While your first few
|
||
attempts are likely to be spectacular failures, you can learn from your
|
||
mistakes. There is no fast way to become proficient at hand production-
|
||
patient practice is the key to consistent, reliable displays.
|
||
|
||
Firecrackers
|
||
|
||
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The
|
||
common spiral wound tubes are not very effective for firecrackers made from
|
||
slower burning powders, though they will work with flash powder. The tubing
|
||
used should be reasonably thick-walled, and can be produced by winding kraft
|
||
paper on a steel core. after winding two layers on the core the paper should
|
||
be coated with a thin layer of glue (any light glue will work) for the
|
||
remaining layers. The core should be removed after winding, as the tube will
|
||
shrink slightly as it dries.
|
||
|
||
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
|
||
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
|
||
|
||
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill
|
||
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the
|
||
tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the
|
||
package.
|
||
|
||
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
|
||
insert a desired length of fuse.
|
||
|
||
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame sensitive explosive. Flash
|
||
powder, pyrodex, black powder, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning
|
||
fuel-oxidizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
|
||
|
||
5) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and
|
||
allow it to dry.
|
||
|
||
6) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, use flash
|
||
powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By adding
|
||
powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced
|
||
from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum
|
||
foil.
|
||
|
||
Skyrockets
|
||
|
||
Impressive skyrockets can be easily produced from model rocket
|
||
engines, with a few minor modifications. While rocket engines for rockets
|
||
can be made from scratch, it is difficult to produce a reliable product.
|
||
|
||
MATERIALS
|
||
|
||
Model Rocket engine (see below) Paper tubing flash powder
|
||
Bamboo stick glue plastic scraper
|
||
|
||
Commercially produced model rocket engines are available from most hobby
|
||
stores. They are discussed in detail on page 65. If bamboo rods are not
|
||
available, any thin dowel rod can be used. The rod serves as a stabilizer
|
||
to help maintain the skyrocket's path. If the rod is too heavy it will cause
|
||
the rocket to spiral, or even to double back.
|
||
Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits
|
||
the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue.
|
||
Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the
|
||
powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at
|
||
least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube,
|
||
about <20> an inch.
|
||
By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
|
||
various types of effects can be produced. By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle
|
||
rockets with the stick removed in the tube, spectacular displays with moving
|
||
fireballs can be produced. Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers
|
||
on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
|
||
|
||
Roman Candles
|
||
|
||
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult
|
||
to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are
|
||
well worth the trouble.
|
||
|
||
1) Buy a <20> inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with
|
||
several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent
|
||
the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.
|
||
|
||
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
|
||
and the drying agent. Half an inch is sufficient.
|
||
|
||
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and
|
||
insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits
|
||
tightly.
|
||
|
||
4) Pour an inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube.
|
||
|
||
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
|
||
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small
|
||
amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of:
|
||
|
||
|
||
60% sparkler material
|
||
20% flash powder
|
||
20% pyrodex.
|
||
|
||
After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and
|
||
mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed.
|
||
|
||
This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape
|
||
when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube.
|
||
Allow the ball to dry.
|
||
|
||
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
|
||
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it
|
||
gently against the ball with a pencil.
|
||
|
||
7) Repeat steps 4 through 6 for each "shot" the candle will have.
|
||
|
||
8) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
|
||
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored
|
||
fireball should shoot out of the tube. The height can be increased by
|
||
adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly
|
||
longer tube.
|
||
|
||
If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex to thepaste
|
||
made in step 5.
|
||
|
||
The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
|
||
producing an effect of colored falling fireballs.
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
:LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
|
||
|
||
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be
|
||
obtained through a public or university library. There are also many
|
||
publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling
|
||
other people how to make explosives at home.
|
||
Advertisements for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines
|
||
and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places
|
||
that information and materials can be purchased from. This listing also
|
||
includes fireworks companies. The fact that a company is listed here does
|
||
not imply any endorsement or relationship with them.
|
||
|
||
|
||
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
|
||
|
||
Full Auto Co. Inc. Explosive Formulas
|
||
P.O. Box 1881 paper tubing,plugs
|
||
MURFREESBORO, TN 37133
|
||
|
||
MJ Distributing Fireworks Formulas
|
||
P.O. Box 10585
|
||
YAKIMA,WA 98909
|
||
|
||
American Fireworks News Fireworks News Magazine.
|
||
SR Box 30 sources and techniques
|
||
DINGMAN'S FERRY, accurate source of info
|
||
PENNSYLVANIA 18328
|
||
|
||
Barnett Int'l Inc. Bows, Crossbows, archery
|
||
125 Runnels St. equipment, some air rifles
|
||
P.O. Box 226 quality varies by price
|
||
PORT HURON,
|
||
MICHIGAN 48060
|
||
|
||
Crossman Air Guns Large assortment of air
|
||
P.O. Box 22927 guns, quality varies.
|
||
ROCHESTER,
|
||
NEW YORK 14692
|
||
|
||
R. Allen Professional Construction
|
||
P.O. BOX 146 books and formulas
|
||
WILLOW GROVE, PA 19090
|
||
|
||
Executive Protection gas grenades, cutlery
|
||
Products and protection devices
|
||
316 California Ave.
|
||
RENO, NEVADA 89509
|
||
|
||
Unlimited Chemicals
|
||
Box 1378-SN Cannon Fuse
|
||
HERMISTON, OREGON 97838
|
||
|
||
Badger Fireworks Co. Class "B" and "C" Fireworks
|
||
Box 1451 Janesville,
|
||
WISCONSIN 53547
|
||
|
||
New England Fireworks Class "C" Fireworks
|
||
P.O. Box 3504
|
||
STANFORD, CONNECTICUT 06095
|
||
|
||
Rainbow Trail Class "C" Fireworks
|
||
Box 581
|
||
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028
|
||
|
||
Stonington Fireworks Inc. Class "C" and "B" Fireworks
|
||
4010 New Wilsey Bay U.25 Road
|
||
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878
|
||
|
||
Windy City Fireworks Class "C" and "B" Fireworks
|
||
P.O. BOX 11
|
||
ROCHESTER, INDIANA 46975
|
||
Loompanics Books on Explosives,
|
||
P.O. Box 1197 Survival, etc
|
||
Port Townsend, WA 98368.
|
||
|
||
Sierra Supply Army Surplus,
|
||
PO Box 1390 Technical Manuals
|
||
Durrango, CO 81302
|
||
(303)-259-1822.
|
||
|
||
Paladin Press The most well known
|
||
P.O. Box 1307 dealer of books on
|
||
Boulder, CO 80306 explosives, etc
|
||
|
||
Delta Press Ltd Books
|
||
P.O. Box 1625 Dept. 893
|
||
El Dorado, AR 71731
|
||
|
||
Phoenix Systems Cannon Fuse, Mil surplus
|
||
P.O. Box 3339 and many books
|
||
Evergreen CO 80439 Wide selection
|
||
|
||
U.S. Cavalry Military and adventure
|
||
2855 Centennial Ave. equipment
|
||
Radcliff, KY 40160-9000
|
||
(502)351-1164 BOOKS
|
||
|
||
The Anarchist's Cookbook (highly inaccurate)
|
||
|
||
Blaster's Handbook [Dynamite user's manual] Dupont (explosives manufacturer)
|
||
This manual is reasonably priced at around $20, and has a lot of
|
||
material on rock removal and other common blasting operations. Includes
|
||
information on propagation blasting and charge calculation.
|
||
|
||
Manual Of Rock Blasting [Dynamite user's manual]
|
||
This manual from Atlas is a bit expensive at $60, but it covers
|
||
everything found in the Blaster's Handbook, as well as demolition and other
|
||
operations.
|
||
|
||
The Anarchist Arsenal: Incendiary and Explosive Techniques [Erroneous]
|
||
112p. 1990, ISBN 0-585-38217-6, Paladin Press
|
||
|
||
Ragnar's Guide to Home and Recreational Use of High Explosives
|
||
Benson, Ragnar. 120p. 1988, ISBN 0-87364-478-6, Paladin Press
|
||
Part of a series of very inaccurate books, anything with Benson
|
||
Ragner's name on it should be taken with a grain of salt.
|
||
|
||
Deadly Brew: Advanced Improvised Explosives [highly unsafe]
|
||
Lecker, Seymour. 64p. 1987, ISBN 0-87364-418-2, Paladin Press
|
||
|
||
Explosive Dust: Advanced Improvised Explosives [death trap]
|
||
Lecker, Seymour. 60p. 1991 ISBN 0-87364-587-1, Paladin Press
|
||
|
||
Improvised Explosives: How to Make Your Own [almost correct]
|
||
Lecker, Seymour. 80p. 1985 ISBN 0-87364-320-8, Paladin Press
|
||
|
||
The Poor Man's James Bond: Homemade Poisons, Explosives, Improvised Firearms,
|
||
Pyrotechnics... [Criminology series]
|
||
Saxon, K. 1986 ISBN 0-8490-3675-5 Atlan Formularies
|
||
|
||
The New Improved Poor Mans's James Bond, No. 1 (6th ed.) [lab manual]
|
||
Saxon, Kurt 477p. 1988 ISBN 0-318-41070-2 Atlan
|
||
This volume includes material from Weingarts Pyrotechnics as well as
|
||
some original material. This is one of the most well known books in the field.
|
||
|
||
The Poor Man's James Bond, Vol 2 [lab manual, reprints from asstd. sources]
|
||
Saxon, K. 484p. 1987 ISBN 0-318-41071-0 Atlan
|
||
|
||
Explosives and Demolitions
|
||
U.S. Army Staff. 188p. 1967 ISBN 0-87364-077-2 Paladin Press.
|
||
This manual is US Army, and is very complete and accurate, although
|
||
it is somewhat outdated. Prices range from $5.00 to $15.00 .
|
||
|
||
Improvised Munitions Handbook
|
||
U.S. Army Staff, Technical Manual 31-210
|
||
The procedures given are feasible, but they written are with the
|
||
presumption that the maker is willing to accept a high degree of risk.
|
||
|
||
Pyrotechnics
|
||
George W. Weingart.
|
||
Gives ingredients, proper handling techniques, and several formulas
|
||
for the production of a numbeer of professional pyrotechnic devices.
|
||
|
||
Explosives
|
||
Arthur Marshall - Chemical Inspector, Ordnance Dept. England
|
||
Published by P. Blakiston's Son & Co. in 2 volumes
|
||
Volume one covers production and volume two covers properties and
|
||
tests. Both are illustrated, very comprehensive and well written.
|
||
|
||
Hazardous Chemical Desk Reference
|
||
N. Irving Sax and R.J. Lewis, SR. Reinhold Press 1096pp
|
||
A quick reference guide to 4,700 of the most commonly used hazardous
|
||
chemicals and compounds, includes incompatibilities and hazards.
|
||
|
||
The Merck Index [11th Edition]
|
||
S. Budavari et al Eds: Merck, Rahway, Nj 2368pp
|
||
Covers more than 10,000 chemicals with information on properties,
|
||
production, uses, and other essential facts. The ultimate desk reference for all
|
||
chemists, this volume is available for $44 from a number of sources.
|
||
|
||
CRC Handbook of Laboratory Safety [2nd Edition]
|
||
Ed. N.U. Steere, CRC Press 864pp
|
||
The CRC Handbook is a valuable resource, and includes standard
|
||
laboratory safety measures as well as procedures for using and disposing of many
|
||
commonly encountered materials. Well worth the $90 list price.
|
||
|
||
Explosives
|
||
R. Meyer. 3rd Edition UCH Publisher, Weinheim, FRG 1987 452pp
|
||
Covers the entire field, with nearly 500 entries including formulas
|
||
and descriptions for 120 explosive chemicals as well as 60 fuels and oxidizing
|
||
agents. This softcover manual is available from Aldrich Chemical for $128
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
|
||
:LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
|
||
|
||
|
||
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets, and
|
||
drug stores to get the materials needed to produce explosives or other
|
||
dangerous compounds. Household sources often contain impurities which can
|
||
have an adverse effect when used in pyrotechnic reactions. The presence of
|
||
impurities will often change the sensitivity of an explosive. Whenever
|
||
possible, it is best to use pure technical grade supplies.
|
||
|
||
Chemical Used In Available at
|
||
|
||
acetone nail polish rmvr,paint thnr Hardware,Drug
|
||
alcohol, ethyl alcoholic drinks, solvents liquor,hardware
|
||
aluminum (foil) packaging, baking grocery
|
||
aluminum (pwdr/dust) bronzing powder paint store
|
||
ammonium hydroxide CLEAR household ammonia supermarkets
|
||
ammonium nitrate cold packs,fertilizer drug stores
|
||
butane Cig. lighter refills drug store
|
||
calcium chloride sidewalk de-icer hardware
|
||
carbon carbon batter hardware
|
||
ethanol denatured alcohol drug store
|
||
ethyl ether auto quick start fluid auto supply
|
||
fuel oil diesel vehicles gas stations
|
||
glycerine drug stores
|
||
hexamine Hexamine camp stoves camping, surplus
|
||
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid (cleaning) hardware
|
||
hydrogen peroxide hair bleaching solution salon
|
||
iodine disinfectant(soln in alcohol)drug store
|
||
magnesium fire starters, heater anodes camping,plumbing
|
||
methenamine hexamine camp stoves camping,surplus
|
||
nitrous oxide whipped cream cans,poppers Gas suppliers, head shops
|
||
potassium permanganate water purification purification supplier
|
||
propane bottled stove gas camping,hardware
|
||
sulfuric acid Car battery (refills) automotive
|
||
sulfuric acid Root destroyer (with solids) hardware,garden
|
||
sulfur gardening (many impurities) hardware
|
||
sodium hydroxide Lye, oven cleaners hardware,grocery
|
||
sodium nitrate fertilizer "nitre" gardening
|
||
sodium perchlorate solidox (torch pellets) hardware
|
||
toluene lacquer thinner paint supply
|
||
|
||
|
||
CHECKLIST OF USEFUL CHEMICALS
|
||
|
||
|
||
The serious explosives researcher soon realizes that if he wishes to make
|
||
a truly useful explosive, he will have to obtain the chemicals through any of a
|
||
number of channels. Many chemicals can be ordered through chemical supply
|
||
companies. To avoid embarassment, place an order for large quantities of a few
|
||
unrelated chemicals at each of several companies, and if possible, use seperate
|
||
addresses for each order. A list of useful chemicals in order of priority would
|
||
probably resemble the following:
|
||
|
||
LIQUIDS SOLIDS
|
||
Nitric Acid Potassium Perchlorate
|
||
Sulfuric Acid Potassium Chlorate
|
||
95% Ethanol Picric Acid (powder)
|
||
Toluene Ammonium Nitrate
|
||
Perchloric Acid Powdered Magnesium
|
||
Hydrochloric Acid Powdered Aluminum
|
||
Potassium Permanganate
|
||
GASES Sulfur (flowers of)
|
||
Mercury
|
||
Potassium Nitrate
|
||
Hydrogen Potassium Hydroxide
|
||
Oxygen Phosphorus
|
||
Chlorine Sodium Azide
|
||
Carbon Dioxide Lead Acetate
|
||
Nitrogen Barium Nitrate
|
||
Helium
|
||
|
||
:FUEL-OXIDIZER MIXTURES
|
||
|
||
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxidizer mixtures that can be
|
||
produced in the home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are
|
||
safer and (usually) less effective. A list of working fuel- oxidizer mixtures
|
||
is presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are not set in stone.
|
||
A rough estimate is given of the percentages of each fuel and oxidizer.
|
||
|
||
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
|
||
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. In general, sodium
|
||
compounds are much more hygroscopic than their potassium equivalents.
|
||
Magnesium can usually be substituted for aluminum. Using magnesium makes
|
||
the mixture more powerful, but it also increases instability and makes it more
|
||
shock sensitive. There are some chemicals with which magnesium will react
|
||
spontaneously, and it decomposes in the presence of any moisture.
|
||
Perchlorates can usually be substituted for chlorates. The perchlorate is
|
||
much more stable, and has a lower safety risk than chlorates. If chlorates must
|
||
be used they should never be mixed with sulfur or gunpowder. It is a good idea
|
||
to add a small amount of calcium carbonate to any mixture containing chlorates.
|
||
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxidizer mixture burns
|
||
after ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the burn rate.
|
||
Extremely fine aluminum powder is detrimental because the layer of aluminum oxide
|
||
becomes a significant fraction of the weight when particle size is very small.
|
||
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxidizer mixtures
|
||
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxidizer(s),
|
||
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
|
||
of the mixture.
|
||
|
||
|
||
:USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
|
||
|
||
|
||
In theory, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic
|
||
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge
|
||
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following
|
||
reactions would merely have to read the first few chapters of a high school
|
||
chemistry book.
|
||
|
||
|
||
potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
|
||
K(OH) + HClO4 KClO4+ H2O
|
||
|
||
potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
|
||
K(OH) + HNO3 KNO3+ H2O
|
||
|
||
ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
|
||
NH3OH + HClO4 NH3ClO4+ H2O
|
||
|
||
ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
|
||
NH3OH + HNO3 NH3NO3 + H2O
|
||
|
||
powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
|
||
|
||
aluminum foil + 6HCl3 2AlCl + 3H2;
|
||
2AlCl3(aq) + 3Mg 3MgCl2 (aq) + 2Al
|
||
|
||
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same method
|
||
works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose,
|
||
unless they are available in great excess.
|
||
|
||
Reactions of assorted fuel-oxidizer mixtures
|
||
|
||
Balanced equations of some oxidizer/metal reactions. Only major products
|
||
are considered. Excess metal powders are generally used. This excess burns with
|
||
atmospheric oxygen.
|
||
|
||
2KNO3 + 5Mg K2O + N2 + 5MgO + energy
|
||
|
||
KClO3 + 2Al KCl + Al2O3 + energy
|
||
|
||
3KClO4 + 8Al 3KCl + 4Al2O3 + energy
|
||
|
||
6KMnO4 + 14Al 3K2O + 7Al2O3 + 6Mn + energy
|
||
|
||
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
- END OF THE BOOK. THIS IS APPROXIMATELY LINE NUMBER 3,670 OF THE TOTAL -
|
||
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|