149 lines
9.2 KiB
Plaintext
149 lines
9.2 KiB
Plaintext
______
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_/ \_ ____________________________
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/ __ \/ \
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| (__) Mastering the Masterlock /
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\_ _/\________ ___ __ __ _/
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\______/ \ / \/ \_/ \/
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Written By: \/ The Gypsy
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From: Dead On Arrival
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This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of locks
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that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are generally
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rented to the studets for the school year. It is a combination lock on the fron
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t, and each has a different combination that is given to the student with the lo
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ck. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This keyhole can be easily ma
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stered once you have one. Also on the back of these locks as a number that has b
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een imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I have encountere
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d and master are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my school area.
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The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The way best to get one
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is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and leave. This is
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the best way, because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock unlocked and som
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eone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the school is wonderi
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ng what is going on, even before you begin the master!
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Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in on
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e of the following ways:
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1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back i
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s. Not in the actual keyhole where the key is inserted, but on the side, between
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the keyhole peice and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the screwdriver
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or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!)
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2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the way
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around the lock. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of pliers. No
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te: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the grinder on it
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, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.
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3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!
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I used the 2nd method.
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After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If you
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used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small peice
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of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some versions of t
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he lock, there may be other peices of metal from the main housing holding on tha
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t plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must then only use a s
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crewdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use the grinder then this
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is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove. If when you finally get
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it open, peices of the lock fly all over, don't worry... Unless you were plannin
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g to put the lock back together (yeah, right!) then you do not need the parts to
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gether.
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The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver-colored peice that contains t
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he brass key-hole section inside. Just get this part... It's all you need. You s
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hould also note the version number of the lock which is on the back plate (which
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you've already taken off)... you will need this number so you know what type of
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lock the master key goes to.
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Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is getting
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the little fucking brass peice out of its silver lining. The silver part is har
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d to break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be dropped. The br
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ass peice contains pins that will fall out very easily. The best way I have foun
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d to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or losing the pins
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is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete peice looks something like
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this:
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___
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/ K \ K represents the keyhole
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| K |
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\_K_/
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| /___ Piece Mentioned
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| \ Below...
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The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part whic
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h should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will melt at a
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temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. Once you have m
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elted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the brass peice, let it
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cool. After it has cooled, pick up both peices together (do not remove the bras
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s from the silver yet!). Turn both peices over (holding the brass in the silver
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still!!). You will then have the brass portion in one hand below the silver port
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ion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion, making sure no pi
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ns fall out of the brass peice. The silver peice can then be discarded. Place a
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peice of clear tape around the brass peice to hold the four pins inside.
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Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and st
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eal a couple of key blanks. (Unless, of course, you are a COMPLETELY honest pers
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on, just reading this file for entertainment... If you are then you may pay for
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the keys if you like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by CURTIS
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. You may or may not later need to file a tiny amount off the TOP of that key. A
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nyways, it is the best key I have come across that fits. Now use some form of a
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file (I suggest using the grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes, m
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ilimeters) from the bottom of the key. Now, remove the tape from your brass peic
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e (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall out!!). Insert the key into the
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brass peice key-hole. Push it in until it sticks out the other end about 0.5mm (
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or just... "not very far"). Starting at the far end of the key (the fourth pin)
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look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of the brass peice. Remember ap
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prox. that distance and remove the key. Take your file and file down on the key
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a dip in the place where that pin (4) would line up on the key. Do NOT file down
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too far. Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how far the pin is getting clo
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ser to even with the brass peice. When the pin sticks out none and is also NOT i
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nside the brass peice at all, then move on to the next pin doing the same thing.
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If you file down too far then the key is worthless and must be re-done. After a
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ll four pins have been completed, they should be perfectly even with the brass p
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eice when the key is in place. Be sure to re-tape the pins inside the brass peic
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e.
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Finally your key is complete, try it out on another lock (with the same versi
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on number on the back-plate)... You may need to move the key around a little ins
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ide of the key-hole to make it work. If it does work then turn the key back and
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forth inside the key-hole about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better
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. If it doesn't work then try the key in your brass portion again. If they are i
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ncorrect then try again. Don't worry, with a little practice, you'll be able to
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file out a key in under 5 minutes!
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Well, that's it! My school also had normal master locks that they used for ot
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her things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered. It's done in
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just about the same way, so you can experiment.
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Just a warning... be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys. Also
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, be sure not to sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna give t
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hem to everybody else. I say this because I was suspended from school for 14 day
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s because the kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid. So on
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ce people found out he was selling them, others wanted one. He then had to tell
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people no (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school would have one!). One of t
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hese persons decided to be an asshole and narced on us. That, of course, is what
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got me suspended.
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There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock after taking it of
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f and using the master key. This will be explained in the next file. That's it f
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or now... Thanx for reading this file intended for ENTERTAINMENT purposes ONLY!
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hehehe...
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
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& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
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The Salted Slug Strange 408-454-9368
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Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
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realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662
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Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
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Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 415-961-9315
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My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
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New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126
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