444 lines
21 KiB
Plaintext
444 lines
21 KiB
Plaintext
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** call The Libary -The Managemnet- **
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***************************************
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================================
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= The Science of Picking Locks =
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= by: Eric The Red =
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= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
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================================
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The advantages of picking or other skilled methods of entry are many: less
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noise and hence less chance of discovery, no tell-tale signs that a violation
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has even occurred, fewer tools are necessary than with most break and enter
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methods, and lastly, but not leastly, it has more class...
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With any of the picking methods presented here it is necessary to practice,
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practice, practice. Any picking takes some time and lots of skill. Like most
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other things in life, it is seldom accomplished as easily as presented on
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television.
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A good method for effective practice is to obtain a lock that lends itself to
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dismantling and remove all but two pins (one long and one short). Follow
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techniques given until you have mastered the two pin lock and then try three
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pins, then four, etc. Once you have this down pat, replace the two pins with
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mushroom pins and start over...
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Before picking any lock, squirt a bit of graphite into the locks innards to
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help free it from the binding effects of dirt and other contamination.
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An overview of the pin tumbler lock:
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------------------------------------
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The pin tumbler lock is the most widely used lock. It offers medium to high
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security and is found in doors, cars, and a host of other applications.
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The principle of the pin tumbler is a series of tumblers resembling small
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pins (usually 5) held in place by other pins resting on top of them, called
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drivers,which are in turn, held in place by springs.
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The tumblers, drivers, and springs are mounted in the shell of the lock and
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the tumblers extend down in to the core of the lock. When the proper key is
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inserted the tumblers are raised to this shear line, or division between them
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and the driver pins. This shear line is located at the top of the core. When
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this transpires, the core may be turned freely with the key.
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If a key is cut too low, the driver pins will extend down into the core; too
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high and the tumblers will extend up into the shell of the lock. In either
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case, the core is help stationary and the lock stays locked. Pin tumblers
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require a high degree of tolerace in lock and key making. About .002 of an
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inch is required for correct functioning.
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Picks:
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------
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The most common way to obtain lock "tools" is to have a friendly locksmith
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order them for you. As much as I hate to say it, many people "become"
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locksmiths themselves and order the goodies on a letterhead. Some suppliers DO
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check to see if they are legit, some do not.
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If you choose to skip all this worry and make your own pick set simply follow
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these easy to remember rules:
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Get some clock spring, or even shim stock from an auto supply house. You want
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the thin type, sold in strips, not the sheets.
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A good range of pick thicknesses is from .025-.035"; too thin will slip the
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pins out of alignment, and too think will bind in the keyway. The most useful
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pick is probably the curved variety, although straight picks have their uses...
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Cut the metal on a grinding wheel, dipping it in water quite often. Take care
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not to burn the metal. For the curved variety you want a slight upward curve
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in the end of the pick. Do not make a gradual upswing, rather a slight, sudden
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upward curve directly at the end of the tool.
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The other important tool is the tension tool. This is in every way as important
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as the pick(s) and must fit the job or it too will bind.
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Tension bars can be constructed from the same clock/spring steel. Bend the tool
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into the classic "L" shape near the end. Also make several sizes and thick-
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nesses of tension tools.
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Picking:
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--------
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(about time, eh?)
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Picking locks requires two intrinsic items: A pick and a tension tool. The pick
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is a thin tool cut from spring steel which ends in a slight upward curve, or a
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number of other tip shapes ranging from diamonds to balls and squares. The pick
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is used to raise each pin to its shear line. The most popular pick is probably
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the curved pick, although you should have a variety of alternatives on hand.
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There are many sets on the market containing anywhere from 5 to 200 picks and
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tension tools in some sort of carrying case.
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The tension tool is an "L" shaped (usually double ended) piece of spring steel.
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The tension tool is inserted into the core of the lock and turned slightly in
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the direction that the lock opens. This tension is maintained throughout the
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picking operation (a small lead weight attached the the handle of the tool may
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do this job for you and free a hand to hold a flashlight, etc). As the pins are
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raised to their shear line the tension you are exerting will prevent them from
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falling back down into the core.
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Locks that use regular, smooth pins are the easiest to pick, and are the best
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to learn with. Modern Yale, Corbin, etc., are usually equipped with special
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pins to make picking a more exacting operation. It is quite essential that one
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learn to pick on a smooth pinned lock before attempting the challenge of an
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anti-pick lock. So...try and choose a cheaper, older lock to begin with.
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(Kwikset locks are quite easy.)
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Place the end of your tension tool into the keyway in such a fashion that it
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does not block your access to the pins. Most locks will take the tension tool
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at the bottom of the keyway best; however it makes little difference to the
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lock, or for that matter, to me, where you place the tool.
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Exert a medium tension on the tool on the direction you suspect the lock turns.
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Take your curved pick and insert it into the lock directly under the first pin.
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Now, while maintaining the tension, push the pin up into the lock.
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While still maintaining the tension, remove the pick. If the pin is picked the
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top (or driver) pin will remain up in the lock itself, freeing the shear line.
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The bottom pin may fall back down into the core, but if done correctly, the top
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pin will wedge against the edge of the core (because you are turning it
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slightly with the tension tool) and remain up.
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Now move on to the second pin and while maintaining tension (so the first pin
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will remain caught) carefully move the second pin up into the lock; of course,
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you are being careful not to dislodge the first pin by a clumsy motion. You are
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being careful, aren't you?
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Good.
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Now about this time you may discover that some of the pins slide right back
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down without binding as you've come to expect from my clever instructions. You
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must realize that some of the pins will be thicker than others (either on
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purpose or due to uneven wear factors). This means that the thin(ner) pins will
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slide back into the core while the thicker pins remain picked.
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To overcome this little problem one simply picks all the thick pins first and
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then goes back and attepts the thin ones. As each each pin is picked, the core
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turns a bit more and as it turns the thinner pins will bind against the edge.
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Soooo....go through the lock, picking all that will, and then go back and work
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the more difficult buggers.
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It really makes no difference if you pick from front to back or skip around,
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choose the method that best matches your personality. An agent should be at
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harmony with himself at all times.
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As you push a pin up into the lock and it falls down, you must decide if
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gravity is the cause or if the pin is being pushed by the spring. If the latter
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is the case, it is, of course, not picked.
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Fat pins will be harder to push up, but they will stay picked. Thin pins go up
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easily and come back down easily. One may have to pick thin pins several times
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before success shines its bleary eye on you.
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Raking:
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-------
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Once you have mastered the art of picking you are ready for bigger and better
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things. This next method is especially nice if you're in a hurry, or say,
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you've picked up this little fox in the local singles bar and you've brought
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her along on this big secret mission to impress her.
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Now she has this low-cut thing on and you're a bit nervous, right? Maybe you
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don't trust your hands too well, so you decide to try the rake.
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Rake, I said rake. Get your mind out of the gutter.
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Insert the tension tool.Now select your pick (I prefer the rake pick, but the
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circle, or even curved, will suffice) and push it into the lock as far as
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possible (so it is resting under ALL the pins at one time.)
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Now bring the pick up until you feel it start to push up the pins, and then
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draw it towards you rapidly, watching to see that it comes in contact with
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every pin on the way out.
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Always keep your tension on the core, and repeat this maneuver several times in
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quick succesion. You may have to adjust the height of the pick as well as the
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turning tension as you work. Start with a medium pressure on the tension tool,
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then try light, then hard.
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If the lock fails to open, then remove and try again.
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In raking you are still performing the same function as in individual picking-
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i.e. you are raising the pins to the shear line. Of course, you are doing it
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faster than you could with each separate pin.
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As you rake the tight pins will pick first and then the loose pins as the core
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turns ever so little, just as in single picking. With any luck you should be
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able to open the lock in 5 or 6 rakes.
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This method will open many locks in a matter of seconds.
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Stay tuned for more fun spy files from Eric The Red.
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================================
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= The Science of Opening Safes =
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= by Eric The Red =
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= Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 =
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================================
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Safes:
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Once the determined agent gains successful entry to the premises, he may find
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that some no good son-of-a-bitch has not only placed the necessary target in a
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locked and alarmed building, but has also employed a safe to help insure the
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virginity of the target materials.
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A good agent will be prepared for such an eventuality by being armed with one
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or more possible opening methods, and necessary implements.
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Success often depends on the degree of security offered, coupled with the age
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and make of the safe.
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Safes come in a wide variety of sizes and applications. One can encounter wall,
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floor, or vault models of varying thickness and offering a wide variety of
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resistance to the determined agent.
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Most safes have at least one combination mechanism. The combination is
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preferred as there are no keys to lose or have copied, and the number of
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possible combinations varies from over 1 million to 1 billion, thus making it a
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bit time consuming to open one randomly.
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The dial is marked with a reference point and a series of numbers. The dial is
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connected to the spindle which appears as a skinny metal bar and to the
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tumblers (which are connected to the leg bone, leg bone connected....).
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The spindle transmits the motion of the dial to the tumblers, which appear as
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metal wheels with a cut in one spot. The tumblers are all packed together.
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(Do not confuse the tumblers of a safe with the tumblers of a normal lock--they
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are entirely different)
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When the spindle turns the tumblers, they first all turn together (as each has
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a small metal post which hooks the next one). As the dial is stopped at the
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first number, that tumbler remains it that position. Then one turns the dial
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to the other direction moving all but that tumbler, the next number, and so
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on.
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When all the correct tumblers are dialed in the slots will be all lined up
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directly under the "fence" which falls into the slots allowing the bolt to be
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retracted.
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Sound Opening:
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--------------
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Some safes can be opened by sound, much as in the movies, but most that were
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manufactured after the mid 60's are not susceptible to the following method:
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A high gain amplifier is used. A small, direct-coupled amplifier can be
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purchased for about 10 dollars from the various electronic supply houses. A
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contact microphone (i.e. one that "hears" vibrations rather than actual sound)
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should be employed. BE SURE to use a matching transformer if the impedences do
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not match; and in a pinch, a crystal phono cartridge can be employed as a
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contact microphone. A stethescope can be used instead of all this, but the
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amplifier-microphone combo is much better.
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Place the contact mic on the safe, near the dial. Now, turn the dial 5 times to
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the left to clear it. Now, turn back towards the right. On the first
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revolution, you should hear a distinct click as the cam and lever engage. Read
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the number. This will be the opening number, or the last number dialed to open
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the safe.
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Continue turning to the right. You will hear an additional click during the
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next 4 or 5 turns. This indicates how many tumblers you are actually dealing
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with. Most safes will have 3, but some will have 4 or 5.
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While you are determining the tumber of tumblers, disregard the drop-in click
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that occurs at the opening number on each turn.
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Our turning the dial to the right 5 turns also performs another duty; it clears
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the mechanism. This means that the dial has picked up all the tumblers and is
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moving them in rotation with the dial.
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After our 5 turns to the right, we move the dial about 10 points BEYOND the
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opening number. If the opening number is 15, we would move to 25 and stop. Now
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we move back to the exact opening number.
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This procedure puts the opening lever and cam in position to open the safe
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(although the tumblers are not lined up so it will not open) Now at this point,
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you can rock the safe dial back and forth without actually turning it.
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This rocking motion causes the lever to click against the tumblers (through
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the lever slot). This clicking can be heard by the manipulator in his ear
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phones. The whole secret here is the fact that the noise will vary depending
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on the number of tumblers the lever is clicking against. (Much like the
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difference in hitting 3 notes on a piano at the same time, or just hitting
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one.)
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Should we have happened to line up one of the tumbles slots under the lever,
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the sound will be that of the lever only clicking only two tumblers (as the
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lever will fit into the slot of the lined up tumbler, creating no sound).
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Each time we time we rock the dial to make the lever-tumbler combination click
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we (assuming there was NO difference in sound) move the dial back to the right
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where it picks up the tumblers and then we move it about 2 digits past the
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last number. Now one moves the dial back to the opening number to realign the
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lever-cam slot, and repeats the rocking motion.
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When you hear a sound differnce, (indicating that the tumbler slot is lined up)
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you turn the dial back to the right until the click indicating the cam has
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picked up the tumblers. Now immediately stop and read the number that is lined
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up when you hear this click.
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This is one of the combination numbers.
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Now continue to the right 2 digits past the last try and move the dial back to
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the opening number and repeat the procedure. Do this until you have all the
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combination numbers.
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Now, we know the opening number is the final number, but we dont know what
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order the combination numbers are arranged, so you will have to try all 9
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(assuming 3 combinations and one opening number) possible variations. One will
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open the safe.
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Sometimes you will have to move the dial a couple of points beyond the opening
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number to get the cam to retract the bolt and open the lock.
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Some locks open to the right, i.e.
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R four turns 22
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L three turns 18
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R two turns 46
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L to opening 15
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Some will be opposite (L-R-L-R).
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Most locks will open no matter which way it is turned, however, a rough
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guideline is:
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Sargeant-right
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Diebold-right
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Yale-left
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Mosler-left
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This sort of technique will not work on high quality modern safes as they
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employ nylon tumblers, sound baffles, and devices to prevent the lever from
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touching the tumblers until ready to open. Because of this, the good agent will
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have a couple of alternate methods in his repertoire.
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Drilling:
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---------
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A good way to tell where to drill is to place your microphone against the safe
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about half way between the handle and the dial. Now shake the handle violently.
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This should make the tail piece hit the bolt. Keep it up until you can locate
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the point where the noise is loudest, i.e., where the tail piece and bolt come
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into actual contact. Drill here.
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It makes little difference whether you drill off the tail piece or bolt; either
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will open the safe.
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It is safer to use a large bit, say one inch, on a powerful drill. This may
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require more than one person pushing on the drill...
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Use special hardened carbide or diamond points, and always carry 4 or 5 with
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you.
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Some safes have hardened plates covering the vital areas to discourage those
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who would use the method. When you encounter such a plate, press very hard on
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the drill and DO NOT ease up, even for a moment, as the will cause the bit to
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burn up.
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You may have to take your torch (you did bring a torch, didn't you?) and heat
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the plate quite hot, let it cool, or throw water on it, drill some more,
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reheat, cool, drill, etc. Most hard plates are fairly thin.
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Punching:
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---------
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In this case, we are not referring to what the frustrated agent often resorts
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to when the safe fails to open, but rather, a quick method of forced entry. The
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agent knocks off dial off with some heavy instrument and punches the spindle
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with a center punch and hammer. With a bit of luck, the safe can often be
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opened.
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However, on many high quality safes, any puching attempt will shatter the
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spindle, or cause the bolt to dead-lock. Some safes have a surprise in the form
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of tear gas which will be released when punched or burned.
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Grinding:
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---------
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A high speed electric grinder with a carbide wheel may be employed to cut away
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the safe wall around the lock mechanism.
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Burning:
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--------
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One of the most popular methods over the years has been the burn job.
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This is accomplished with an oxy-acetylene torch. The protecting wall in front
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of the dial mechanism is cut away revealing the tumblers which are manipulated
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to open the door.
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Many modern safes are laminated steel connected to something like copper, which
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conducts heat away from the burning area. Also one must consider the
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possibility of tear gas releasing at about 130 degrees.
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Paper can withstand temperatures up to about 350 degrees.....
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Other:
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------
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Many people feel they must go in via the door as that is the conventional way,
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when, in real life, the door may be the protected part of the safe.
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Often, turning a safe on its top and attacking the bottom with a sledge or
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heavy duty axe may yield opening results. However, this method does lack a bit
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in the finesse department.
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Peeling is another possibilty: Here one drills a hole in the corner of the door
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(thereby missing the anti-drill plate) and inserts a crowbar and peels back the
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first layer of te door. This will usually expose the locking mechanism.
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One can also drill from the rear, look into the safe, decide if it is worth
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opening. As an added bonus, most safes can be opened by turning the dial while
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watching the mechanism from the rear and visually aligning the tumblers.
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Thermic Lance:
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--------------
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A thermic lance, or burning bar, will cut through most safes with no noise,
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minimum hassle, and have the added advantage of being concealable and simple to
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operate.
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Call Tiger's Lair (206)874-4115 for the latest in "The Science of..." Series.
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
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& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
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The Salted Slug Strange 408-454-9368
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Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
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realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662
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Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
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Tomorrow's 0rder of Magnitude Finger_Man 415-961-9315
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My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
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New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126
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Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
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arcane knowledge, political extremism, diverse sexuality,
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insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
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Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
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where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
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"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
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X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
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