482 lines
32 KiB
Plaintext
482 lines
32 KiB
Plaintext
Touch Paper, Self Igniting Mixtures, Percussion Explosives
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This is part of a series of files on pyrotechnics and explosives. It's serious
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stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat it seriously. For you
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kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember that if a part of your
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body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown away. If you can't
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treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
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Each file will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them. Read
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'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general rules
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that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW about
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the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
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before starting anything.
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Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature, unstable,
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and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction. A clear
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understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the handling of
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ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are to be avoided.
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Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the following:
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1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
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most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
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bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
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every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
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2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale
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pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of
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water before weighing the next ingredient.
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3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
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workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
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containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage
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or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and
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replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.
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4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
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TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
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another ingredient.
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5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
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structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should
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also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass
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also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an
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accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the
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top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some
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mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in
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a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform.
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In all cases, point the open end of the container away from
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yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
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stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
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sparks or static.
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Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on
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a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them
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across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
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6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
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material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
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contents down.
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7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
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hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
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stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
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accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
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they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
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locked away.
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8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
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cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber
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or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture
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caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the
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friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any
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procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
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9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES.
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Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure
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lenses and frames are not flammable.
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10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
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form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there.
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They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
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11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
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12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
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13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
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14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
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15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
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produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
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lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
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dust floating in the air.
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16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
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17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
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hose, etc.)
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18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
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put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
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than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
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This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
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been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
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please do not use metal in any circumstance.
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19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
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Some information will be included in each file, but look for
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whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
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thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
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20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
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forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
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21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
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half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
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or reuse any dud.
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22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
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doing and leave until it settles.
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23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
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24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
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Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't
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drop them, or even handle them roughly.
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These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at one
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example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who played the
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good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special effects got
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out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really messed up by the
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green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who played the Tin Man
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got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to color his face. The actor
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we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The point is, these
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chemicals were being used under the direction of people a lot more knowlegable
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of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents still happened. Don't take
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this stuff lightly.
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We will be using many more chemicals this time, and some can be quite
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dangerous. Please read the following information carefully.
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Sodium Azide - NaN
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3
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This white powder is very poisonous. It is also a bit unstable, so treat it
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gently.
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Lead Nitrate - Pb(NO )
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3 2
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This contains poisonous lead and is very water soluble so your body will
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absorb it quickly, given the chance. The government has banned leaded paints
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and is phasing out leaded gasoline because the stuff slowly accumulates in
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your body and can screw up all sorts of important innards. If you are careless
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with Lead Nitrate you can do a few lifetimes' worth of damage in one
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afternoon.
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Ammonium Nitrate - NH NO
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4 3
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Commonly used as fertilizer, this stuff is somewhat dangerous in large
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quantities, particularly if it gets very hot. (Entire shiploads of this
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material have been known to go up all at once.) When heated gently, it
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decomposes into water and nitrous oxide (laughing gas). Farmers sometimes use
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it to blow up tree stumps by mixing it with fuel oil and setting the gunk off
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with a detonator. We'll have a very different use for it here.
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Potassium Nitrate - KNO
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3
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Also known as saltpeter, this is commercially used as a diuretic for animals.
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It also works as an oxidizing agent in various pyrotechnic mixtures. That is,
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when heated it provides the oxygen needed to make the rest of the mixture
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burn.
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Potassium Potassium
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Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
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2KNO ---> 2KNO + O
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3 2 2
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Potassium Chlorate - KClO
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3
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A much more spectacular oxidizing agent than Potassium Nitrate. It not only
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yields more oxygen than Potassium Nitrate, it does so more easily. Pyrotechnic
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mixtures containing this chemical will require much less of it, and yet burn
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more fiercely. Even percussion can readily set the mixtures off. This can be
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useful, but it sometimes makes the mixtures more sensitive than you'd like.
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Mixtures containing this chemical must be handled carefully. Potassium
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Chlorate is also poisonous.
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Potassium Potassium
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Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
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2KClO ---> 2KCl + 3O
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3 2
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Aluminum Dust
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Very finely divided aluminum. When put in a glass jar, it almost looks like a
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solid piece of grey metal. In this form it is flammable. Also, it can
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seriously damage your lungs if you inhale it. Be careful not to stir up any
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clouds of dust, and it goes without saying that you shouldn't use it near an
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open flame.
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Zinc Dust
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Very finely divided zinc. Not quite as flammable as Aluminum Dust, but still
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worth handling carefully. Can also damage your lungs if inhaled.
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Lampblack
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This is very finely divided carbon, usually obtained as a soot from other
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manufacturing processes. It is much more effective in pyrotechnic mixtures
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than powdered charcoal. Tiny spots of this are almost unnoticeable, but they
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stick to your hands and smear incredibly far. If you're not very tidy you
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should expect to find black smears all over your face and hands after using
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this.
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Sulfur
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A yellow powder used as a reducing agent in many pyrotechnic mixtures. Buy
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this in the finely powdered form. You can also get it in hard lumps, but these
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will just waste extra time as you have to grind them yourself.
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Potassium Permanganate
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An oxidizing agent that's somewhat less vigorous than others mentioned here.
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Not usually used in pyrotechnic mixtures because it's more expensive and less
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effective than some of the alternatives. There are a few cases when it's just
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the right thing. Don't let this accidentally come in contact with glycerine.
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If such an accident happens, the resulting mess should be immediately wiped up
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with wet paper towels and buried or flushed down a toilet. It should NOT be
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thrown away in a dry waste receptacle!!!
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Gum Arabic
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A white powder which is mixed with water to make a glue like substance. Useful
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for coating various mixtures or binding them together into a solid mass.
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Sodium Peroxide
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A very strange and dangerous oxidizer. Don't let it get wet and don't let it
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touch your skin.
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Glycerine
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A thick liquid, chemically similar to rubbing alcohol. Though harder to get
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burning, it will burn in the right circumstances. Fairly safe stuff.
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Iodine Crystals
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Pure Iodine is a steel grey solid, which is poisonous and which produses
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poisonous vapors when heated. Smells similar to the chlorine used in bleaches
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and swimming pools. If you accidentally should drop some on a hot surface and
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notice the odor, you should leave the area.
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Touch Paper
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This is an easily made material that acts like a slow burning fuse and is
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ideal for testing small amounts of a pyrotechnic mixture. It is made by
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soaking a piece of absorbent paper, like a paper towel, in a saturated
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solution of Potassium Nitrate. (A saturated solution means that you have
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dissolved as much of the chemical in water as is possible.) Hang the paper up
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to dry, and be sure to wipe up any drips. When dry it is ready. Cut off a
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small strip and light the edge to see how different it acts from ordinary
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paper. This will ignite all but the most stubborn mixtures, and will ignite
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gunpowder, which will in turn ignite most anything else.
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Don't dip the towel in the Potassium Nitrate solution a second time to try to
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make it "stronger". This will actually make it less effective. Some of the
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fancier paper towels don't work too well for this. Best results are obtained
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from the cheap folded paper towels found in public restrooms everywhere.
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Self Igniting Mixtures
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Pulverize 1 gram of Potassium Permanganate crystals and place them on an
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asbestos board or in an earthenware vessel. Let 2-3 drops of glycerine fall
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onto the Potassium Permanganate. The mixture will eventually sizzle and then
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flare. Potassium Permanganate is the oxidizing agent. The glycerine is
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oxidized so quickly that heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated.
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Consequently, the glycerine is ignited. Because this mixture takes so long to
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catch on fire, it is sometimes useful when a time delay is needed to set off
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some other mixture. If you lose patience with this test, DO NOT THROW THE
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MIXTURE AWAY IN A WASTEBASKET!!! Either bury it or flush it down a toilet. I
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know of at least one house fire that was started because this was not done.
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Given time, this stuff WILL start to burn.
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This demonstration produces a very nice effect, but sends out a lot of
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poisonous fumes, so do it outside. Make a mound of equal volumes of iodine
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crystals and aluminum dust. Make a small indentation at the top of the mound
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and add a drop or two of water and move away. It will hiss and burst into
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flame, generating thick purple smoke. The fumes are Iodine vapor which is
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very caustic, so make sure you are upwind of the fire. Since this is set off
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by moisture, you should not store the mixed material. Mix it immediately
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before you plan to use it.
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Shred a small piece of newspaper and place on it a small amount of sodium
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peroxide. Add two drops of hot water. The paper will be ignited. CAUTION: Keep
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Sodium Peroxide from moisture and out of contact with organic materials (your
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skin, for example.)
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Ammonium Nitrate, 5 grams, 1 gram of Ammonium Chloride. Grind these
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SEPARATELY, and add 1/4 gram of zinc dust. Form a cone and add 2-4 drops of
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water. A bright blue flame with large volumes of smoke forms. Depending on the
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quality of your zinc dust, you may need to increase the quantity of zinc.
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Since this is ignited by moisture, you should not attempt to store this
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mixture.
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Percussion Explosives
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This section will not only introduce a couple of mixtures with interesting
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possibilities, but it will also demonstrate how sensitive mixtures containing
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Potassium Chlorate can be. Keep in mind that Chlorate mixtures can be a LOT
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more sensitive than the ones shown here.
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Mix 1 part by weight of Sulfur, and 3 parts Potassium Chlorate. Each should be
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ground separately in a mortar. They should be mixed lightly without any
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pressure on a sheet of paper. A small amount of this mixture (less than one
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gram!!) placed on a hard surface and struck with a hammer will explode with a
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loud report.
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Mix the following parts by weight, the same way as above,
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Potassium Chlorate 6
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Lampblack 4
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Sulfur 1
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Both of these mixtures are flammable. Mix small quantities only.
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Lead Azide Pb(N )
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3 2
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Unlike many explosives that must be enclosed in a casing to explode, and
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others that require a detonator to set them off, Lead Azide will explode in
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open air, either due to heat or percussion. Mixed with gum arabic glue, tiny
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dots of it are placed under match heads to make trick exploding matches. The
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same mixture coated onto 1/2 " wood splinters are used to "load" cigars. In
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larger amounts, it is used as a detonator. A moderately light tap will set it
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off, making it much more sensitive than the percussion explosives already
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mentioned. It is very easy to make.
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Take about 1.3 grams of sodium azide and dissolve it in water. It's best not
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to use any more water than necessary. In a separate container, dissolve about
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3.3 grams of Lead Nitrate, again only using as much water as needed to get it
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to dissolve. When the two clear liquids are mixed, a white precipitate of Lead
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Azide will settle out of the mixture. Add the Lead Nitrate solution, while
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stirring, until no more Lead Azide precipitates out. You may not need to use
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it all. Note that the above weights are given only for your convenience if you
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have the necessary scales, and give the approximate proportions needed. You
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need only continue to mix the solutions until no more precipitate forms.
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The precipitate is filtered out and rinsed several times with distilled water.
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It is a good idea to store this in its wet form, as it is less sensitive this
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way. It's best not to store it if possible, but if you do, you should keep it
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in a flexible plastic container that wont produce sharp fragments in case of
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an explosion. (NO MORE THAN A GRAM AT A TIME !!!!) Also, make sure that the
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mouth of the container is wiped CLEAN before putting the lid on. Just the
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shock of removing the lid is enough to set off the dry powder if it is wedged
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between the container and the stopper. Don't forget that after you've removed
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the precipitate from the filter paper, there will still be enough left to make
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the filter paper explosive.
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Lead Azide is very powerful as well as very sensitive. Never make more than a
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couple of grams at one time.
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Reaction Equations
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Lead Sodium Lead Sodium
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Nitrate Azide Azide Nitrate
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Pb(NO ) + 2NaN ---> Pb(N ) + 2NaNO
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3 2 3 3 2 3
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Don't try to salvage the Sodium Nitrate that's left over (dissolved in the
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water). Sodium nitrate is cheap, not really useful for good pyrotechnics, and
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this batch will be contaminated with poisonous lead. It's worthless stuff.
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Dump it out.
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To demonstrate the power of a little bit of Lead Azide, cut out a piece of
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touch paper in the following shape
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-----------------------------
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! !
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! !
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! ---------------
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! !
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! ---------------
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! !
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! !
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-----------------------------
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Where the size of the wide rectangle is no more than one inch x 1/2 inch, and
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the length of the little fuse is at least 3/4 inch. Apply a thin layer of wet
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Lead Azide to the large rectangle with a paint brush and let it dry
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thoroughly. When done, set this tester out in the open, light the fuse at the
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very tip and step back. If done properly, the tiny bit of white powder will
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produce a fairly loud explosion.
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A Lead Azide Booby Trap
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Get some string that's heavy enough so that it won't break when jerked hard. A
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couple of feet is enough to test this out. You may want to use a longer piece
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depending on what you plan to do with this. Fold a small "Z" shape in the
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center of the string, as shown in figure 1. The middle section of the "Z"
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should be about one inch long.
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-------------------------------------.
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.
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.
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.
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--------------------------------------------------
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Figure 1. Fold string into a small Z
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Next, twist the Z portion together as tightly as you can. Don't worry if it
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unwinds a bit when you let go, but it should still stay twisted closely
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together. If it doesn't, you will need a different kind of string. Figure 2
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tries to show what this will look like.
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-------------//////////////////-----------------
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Figure 2. Twist the Z portion tightly
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Next, apply some wet Lead Azide to the twisted portion with a paint brush. The
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Lead Azide should have a bit of Gum Arabic in it to make it sticky. Cut
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out a piece of paper, two inches by 6 inches long, wrap it around the twisted
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portion, and glue the end on so that it stays put. You should now have a two
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inch narrow paper tube with a string sticking out each end, as shown in figure
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3.
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-------------------------
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! !
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----------! !-------------------
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! !
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-------------------------
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Figure 3. The completed Booby Trap
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You should now set the booby trap aside for at least two weeks so that the
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Lead Azide inside can dry completely. Don't try to speed up the process by
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heating it. When the two ends of the string are jerked hard, the friction in
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the wound up string will set off the Lead Azide. The booby trap can be
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attatched to doors, strung out as tripwires, or set up in any other situation
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that will cause a quick pull on the strings. Be careful not to use too much
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Lead Azide. A little will go a long way. Before trying this on an unsuspecting
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soul, make a test booby trap as explained here, tie one end to a long rope,
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and set it off from a distance.
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The paper wound around the booby trap serves two purposes. It keeps the Lead
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Azide from flaking off, and it pads the stuff so it will be less likely to get
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set off accidentally. A good vigorous swat will still set it off though, so
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store these separately and keep them padded well.
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Getting The Chemicals
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As always, be sure to use your brains when ordering chemicals from a lab
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supply house. Those people KNOW what Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate make when
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mixed together. They also know that someone who orders a bunch of chlorates,
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nitrates, metal dusts, sulfur, and the like, probably has mischeif in mind,
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and they keep records. So break your orders up, order from different supply
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houses, get some friends to order some of the materials, and try to order the
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things long before you plan do do anything with them. It's a pain, and the
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multiple orders cost a lot in extra shipping charges, but that's what it costs
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to cover your tracks. DO it!
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DOWNLOADED FROM P-80 SYSTEMS......
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