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BOOM!!!
This handbook was edited at
MICHIGAN STATE. The world's
BEST source of classified
and "questionable" doc's!!!
THE TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK
________________________
1.0 INTRODUCTION
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies, a division of Chaos Industries (CHAOS),
is proud to present this first edition of The Terrorist's Handbook.
First and foremost, let it be stated that Chaos Industries assumes
no responsibilities for any misuse of the information presented in
this publication. The purpose of this is to show the many techniques
and methods used by those people in this and other countries who employ
terror as a means to political and social goals. The techniques herein
can be obtained from public libraries, and can usually be carried out
by a terrorist with minimal equipment. This makes one all the more
frightened, since any lunatic or social deviant could obtain this
information, and use it against anyone. The processes and techniques
herein SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES!!! SERIOUS
HARM OR DEATH COULD OCCUR FROM ATTEMPTING TO PERFORM ANY OF THE
METHODS IN THIS PUBLICATION. THIS IS MERELY FOR READING ENJOYMENT,
AND IS NOT INTENDED FOR ACTUAL USE BY BEGINNERS!!! THE INFORMATION
INCLUDED IN THIS MANUAL IS ONLY FOR PEOPLE WHO ARE EXPERIENCED IN
CHEMICAL COMPOSITION AND RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN ACTIONS!!!
Gunzenbomz Pyro-Technologies feels that it is important that everyone
has some idea of just how easy it is for a terrorist to perform acts
of terror; that is the reason for the existence of this publication.
1.1 Table of Contents
_________________
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
2.01 Black Powder
2.02 Pyrodex
2.03 Rocket Engine Powder
2.04 Rifle/Shotgun Powder
2.05 Flash Powder
2.06 Ammonium Nitrate
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
2.11 Techniques for Picking Locks
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND AVAILABILITY
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 Nitric Acid
2.32 Sulfuric Acid
2.33 Ammonium Nitrate
3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
3.01 Explosive Theory
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
3.11 Ammonium Triiodide Crystals
3.12 Mercury Fulminate
3.13 Nitroglycerine
3.14 Picrates
3.2 LOW ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.21 Black Powder
3.22 Nitrocellulose
3.23 Fuel + Oxodizer mixtures
3.24 Perchlorates
3.3 HIGH ORDER EXPLOSIVES
3.31 R.D.X. (Cyclonite)
3.32 Ammonium Nitrate
3.33 ANFOS
3.34 T.N.T.
3.35 Potassium Chlorate
3.36 Dynamite
3.37 Nitrostarch Explosives
3.38 Picric Acid
3.39 Ammonium Picrate (Explosive D)
3.40 Nitrogen Trichloride
3.41 Lead Azide
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
3.51 Thermit
3.52 Molotov Cocktails
3.53 Chemical Fire Bottle
3.54 Bottled Gas Explosives
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
4.1 SAFETY
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
4.21 Fuse Ignition
4.22 Impact Ignition
4.23 Electrical Ignition
4.24 Electro - Mechanical Ignition
4.24-1 Mercury Switches
4.24-2 Tripwire Switches
4.24-3 Radio Control Detonators
4.3 DELAYS
4.31 Fuse Delays
4.32 Timer Delays
4.33 Chemical Delays
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
4.41 Paper Containers
4.42 Metal Containers
4.43 Glass Containers
4.44 Plastic Containers
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
4.51 Shaped Charges
4.52 Tube Explosives
4.53 Atomized Particle Explosions
4.54 Lightbulb Bombs
4.55 Book Bombs
4.56 Phone Bombs
5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
5.1 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (PRIMITIVE)
5.11 Bow and Crossbow Ammunition
5.12 Blowgun Ammunition
5.13 Wrist Rocket and Slingshot Ammunition
5.2 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (FIREARMS)
5.21 Handgun Ammunition
5.22 Shotguns
5.3 PROJECTILE WEAPONS (COMPRESSED GAS)
5.31 .177 Caliber B.B Gun Ammunition
5.32 .22 Caliber Pellet Gun Ammunition
6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS
6.1 ROCKETS
6.11 Basic Rocket-Bomb
6.12 Long Range Rocket-Bomb
6.13 Multiple Warhead Rocket-Bombs
6.2 CANNONS
6.21 Basic Pipe Cannon
6.22 Rocket-Firing Cannon
7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
7.1 Smoke Bombs
7.2 Colored Flames
7.3 Tear Gas
7.4 Fireworks
7.4-1 Firecrackers
7.4-2 Skyrockets
7.4-3 Roman Candles
x8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND FURTHER INFORMATION
9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
11.0 ABOUT THE AUTHOR
________________
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and a
pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists
visit in order to purchase explosive material. All that one has
to do is know something about the non-explosive uses of the materials.
Black powder, for example, is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes
in varying "grades", with each different grade being a slightly
different size. The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre
of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of powder could burn too
fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade,
the faster the burn rate of the powder.
2.01 BLACK POWDER
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated
before, the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn
rate is extremely important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid
increase of gas volume in a confined environment, to make an explosion,
a quick-burning powder is desirable. The three common grades of black
powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width (calibre) of
what they are used in. Generally, the fastest burning powder, the
FFF grade is desirable. However, the other grades and uses are listed
below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
_____ __________ ______________
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front.
The larger grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The
price range of black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00.
The price is not affected by the grade, and so one saves oneself
time and work if one buys the finer grade of powder. The major
problems with black powder are that it can be ignited accidentally
by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to absorb moisture
from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic spoon
and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she
would apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in
a series of strokes or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough
to use when it is about as fine as flour. The fineness, however,
is dependant on what type of device one wishes to make; obviously,
it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1 foot by
4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone
can own black powder firearms in America.
2.02 PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder.
It comes in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound.
However, a one pound container of pyrodex contains more material
by volume than a pound of blackpowder. It is much easier to crush
to a very fine powder than black powder, and it is considerably
safer and more reliable. This is because it will not be set off by
static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined to absorb
moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in
the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling
water and dried.
2.03 ROCKET ENGINE POWDER
One of the most exciting hobbies nowadays is model rocketry. Estes
is the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines. Rocket
engines are composed of a single large grain of propellant. This
grain is surrounded by a fairly heavy cardboard tubing. One gets
the propellant by slitting the tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it
like a paper towel roll. When this is done, the grey fire clay at
either end of the propellant grain must be removed. This is usually
done gently with a plastic or brass knife. The material is
exceptionally hard, and must be crushed to be used. By gripping the
grain on the widest setting on a set of pliers, and putting the grain
and powder in a plastic bag, the powder will not break apart and
shatter all over. This should be done to all the large chunks of
powder, and then it should be crushed like black powder. Rocket
engines come in various sizes, ranging from 1/4 A - 2T to the
incredibly powerful D engines. The larger the engine, the more
expensive. D engines come in packages of three, and cost about
$5.00 per package. Rocket engines are perhaps the single most useful
item sold in stores to a terrorist, since they can be used as is,
or can be cannibalized for their explosive powder.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They
will be referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder
is made by the action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon
cotton. This material is then dissolved by solvents and then reformed
in the desired grain size. When dealing with gunpowder, the grain size
is not nearly as important as that of black powder. Both large and
small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly compared to black powder
when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder burns both hotter
and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure. Therefore,
the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound.
Any idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or
shotguns in the U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should
be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should
NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed
and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available
in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is
the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly,
regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence
its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold
in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
2.06 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult
to ignite with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot
part of a match is touching it. It is also difficult to detonate;
(the phenomenon of detonation will be explained later) it requires a
large shockwave to cause it to go high explosive. Commercially, it
is sometimes mixed with a small amount of nitroglycerine to increase
its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the "Cold-Paks" or
"Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold-Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing
the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off
the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save
the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight container, since it
is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it tends to absorb water from the air.
It is also the main ingredient in many fertilizers.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a
college. Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the
shelves in the labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening
is the best time to enter lab buildings, as there are the least number
of people in the buildings, and most of the labs will still be unlocked.
One simply takes a bookbag, wears a dress shirt and jeans, and tries
to imitate a college freshman. If anyone asks what such a person is
doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking for the polymer
chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department other than
the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various labs
and departments in a building are by calling the university. There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours,
such as placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door,
such as a back exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later
hour. Also, before this is done, terrorists check for security systems.
If one just walks into a lab, even if there is someone there, and walks
out the back exit, and slip the cardboard in the latch before the door
closes, the person in the lab will never know what happened. It is also
a good idea to observe the building that one plans to rob at the time
that one plans to rob it several days before the actual theft is done.
This is advisable since the would-be thief should know when and if the
campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if none of
these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects
another person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they
are there at an odd hour.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's most
effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with
these methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue
lockpicks. These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the
door to a lab is locked, but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there
are other possibilities. The rule here is: if one can see the latch,
one can open the door. There are several devices which facilitate
freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental tools, stiff
wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from beverage cans, thin
pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way
that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or
otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the
door open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using
behind the latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an
aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and
carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the ragged ends of
the can. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened
out into a single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch
wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will
have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of aluminum. This
should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape. This is
done by folding. The pieces would look like this:
(1)
_________________________________________________________ v
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
^
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum.
This should then be folded to produce an L, J,or U shaped device that
looks like this:
__________________________________________
/|________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/|___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |_________
\|_______|
_____________________
/|___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |
| |
| |____________________
\|___________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be
between the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if
it is made properly.
2.2 LIST OF USEFUL HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR AVAILABILITY
Anyone can get many chemicals from hardware stores, supermarkets,
and drug stores to get the materials to make explosives or other
dangerous compounds. A would-be terrorist would merely need a station
wagon and some money to acquire many of the chemicals named here.
Chemical Used In Available at
________ _______ ____________
_________________________________________________________________
alcohol, ethyl * alcoholic beverages liquor stores
solvents (95% min. for both) hardware stores
_________________________________________________________________
ammonia + CLEAR household supermarkets,
ammonia 7 - Eleven
_________________________________________________________________
ammonium instant-cold drug stores,
nitrate paks, fertilizers medical supply
stores
_________________________________________________________________
nitrous oxide pressurizing party supply
drinks and whip cream stores
_________________________________________________________________
magnesium firestarters surplus stores,
camping stores
_________________________________________________________________
lecithin vitamin? pharmacies,
drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
mineral oil cooking, laxative supermarkets,
drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
mercury @ mercury thermometers supermarkets,
hardware stores
_________________________________________________________________
sulfuric acid uncharged car automotive
batteries
_________________________________________________________________
glycerine ? pharmacies,
drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
sulfur gardening gardening store,
hardware stores
_________________________________________________________________
charcoal charcoal grills, supermarkets,
gardening gardening stores
_________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate fertilizer gardening store,
_________________________________________________________________
cellulose first aid drug stores,
(cotton) medical supply
stores
_________________________________________________________________
strontium nitrate road flares surplus stores,
auto stores
_________________________________________________________________
fuel oil kerosene stoves surplus stores,
(kerosene) camping stores
_________________________________________________________________
bottled gas propane stoves surplus stores,
camping stores
_________________________________________________________________
potassium water purification purification
permanganate plants
_________________________________________________________________
hexamine or hexamine stoves surplus stores
methenamine (camping) (camping stores?)
_________________________________________________________________
nitric acid ^ cleaning printing printing shops
plates photography stores?
_________________________________________________________________
iodine & first aid drug stores
_________________________________________________________________
sodium perchlorate solidox pellets hardware stores
for cutting torches
_________________________________________________________________
Notes:
* Ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as
a solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol
must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately.
They may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used
in mercury switches, which are available at electronics stores.
Mercury is a hazardous substance, and should be kept in the
thermometer or mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury
vapors which will cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason,
it is a good idea not to spill mercury, and to always use it
outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will
help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a
later section. A desired concentration for making explosives
about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the
means that terrorists result to.
2.3 PREPARATION OF CHEMICALS
2.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.
Once again, be reminded that these methods SHOULD NOT BE CARRIED OUT
EXCEPT BY EXPERIENCED PERSONNEL!!!
Materials: Equipment
__________ _________
sodium nitrate adjustable heat source
or
potassium nitrate retort
distilled water ice bath
concentrated stirring rod
sulfuric acid
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place
the collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is
nitric acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
almost dry, or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the
acid is heated too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as
it is formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable and
toxic gasses that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above
apparatus up, and then get away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out the
sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of
boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in
a funnel into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear.
The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so
when the solution of water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate
will be left in the jar.
2.32 SULFURIC ACID
Sulfuric acid is far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial plant. However, it is readily available in an uncharged
car battery. A person wishing to make sulfuric acid would simply
remove the top of a car battery and pour the acid into a glass container.
There would probably be pieces of lead from the battery in the acid
which would have to be removed, either by boiling or filtration. The
concentration of the sulfuric acid can also be increased by boiling it;
very pure sulfuric acid pours slightly faster than clean motor oil.
2.33 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order explosive.
It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask
in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials
have stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a
warm place until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid
have evaporated. There would be a fine powder formed, which would be
ammonium nitrate. It must be kept in an airtight container, because
of its tendency to pick up water from the air. The crystals formed in
the above process would have to be heated VERY gently to drive off the
remaining water.
3.0 EXPLOSIVE RECIPES
Once again, persons reading this material MUST NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRODUCE
ANY OF THE EXPLOSIVES DESCRIBED HEREIN UNLESS YOU ARE EXTREMELY
EXPERIENCED. IT IS ILLEGAL AND EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO ATTEMPT TO DO SO
OTHERWISE. LOSS OF LIFE AND/OR LIMB COULD EASILY OCCUR AS A RESULT
OF ATTEMPTING TO PRODUCE EXPLOSIVE MATERIALS.
These recipes are theoretically correct, meaning that an individual
could conceivably produce the materials described. The methods here
are usually scaled-down industrial procedures.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases
energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light,
or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger
volume that the original piece of material. Because this expansion
is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding
gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of
sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind
an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives
which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may
do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave
that passes through a block of the high explosive material. The
shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the
substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound
traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and
oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these
bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order
explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
When heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat,
light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about
the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as
blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called
nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined
space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower
than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of
low order explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such
as mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive.
They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the
high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a high order
explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still others
merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate
and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are
usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also
frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; The gunpowder in a
bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
Ammonium triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release
little heat and no light. Impact explosives are always treated with
the greatest care, and even the stupidest anarchist never stores them
near any high or low explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock,
if they are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and
iodine. Such crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them,
or when an ant walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has
enough impurities, such as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the
crystals will detonate when thrown, crushed, or heated. Upon
detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine gas
appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface
that the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some
of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and
iodine is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple
stains on whatever it contacts. Iodine gas is also bad news, since
it can damage lungs, and it settles to the ground and stains things
there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on the skin that last
for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously washed
off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious
terrorist, a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or,
a terrorist could throw several of them into a crowd as a distraction,
an action which would possibly injure a few people, but frighten almost
anyone, since a small crystal that not be seen when thrown produces a
rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide crystals could be produced
in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
_________ _________
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The
jars must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the
funnel. The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught
in every basic chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half,
so that a semi-circle is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form
a triangle with one curved side. Pull one thickness of paper out to
form a cone, and place the cone into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first
jar to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter
paper, and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour.
Make sure that they are not too close to any lights or other sources
of heat, as they could well detonate. While they are still wet, divide
the wet material into about eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece
of duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct
tape together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal
itself. Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of
scissors, and store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a
shelf life of about a week, and they should be stored in individual
containers that can be thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly
decompose, a process which gives off iodine vapors, which will stain
whatever they settle on. One possible way to increase their shelf life
is to store them in airtight containers. To use them, simply throw them
against any surface or place them where they will be stepped on or
crushed.
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would
make it of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping
a crystal of the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this
material would probably use the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
mercury (5 g) glass stirring rod
concentrated nitric 100 ml beaker (2)
acid (35 ml)
adjustable heat
ethyl alcohol (30 ml) source
distilled water blue litmus paper
funnel and filter paper
1) In one beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric acid,
using the glass rod.
2) Slowly heat the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) After thirty to forty minutes, the fumes should turn white, indicating
that the reaction is near completion. After ten more minutes, add 30 ml
of the distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the liquid
solution. Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is corrosive
and toxic.
6) Wash the crystals several times in distilled water to remove as much
excess acid as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
they are neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when
it touches the wet crystals.
7) Allow the crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
from any explosive or flammable material. This procedure can also be
done by volume, if the available mercury cannot be weighed. Simply use
10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of ethanol to every one volume
of mercury.
3.13 NITROGLYCERINE
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive. Although it IS possible to make it safely, it is
difficult. Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured
while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it,
many people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions.
Usually, as soon as it is made, it is converted into a safer substance,
such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts to make nitroglycerine would
use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
________ _________
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) (a plastic bucket serves well)
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml)
glycerine blue litmus paper
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and
about a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium
bicarbonate dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the
water so that some remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice,
and adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering
the overall temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the
beaker will not spill into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will
not overflow into the beaker when more materials are added to it.
Be sure to have a large enough ice bath container to add more ice.
Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20 degrees centigrade
or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully
add the 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the
two acids together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade.
It is a good idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids,
one drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture
where the mixed acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE
TO GET ABOVE 30 DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE
THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate
immediately, and the temperature will immediately begin to rise.
Add glycerine until there is a thin layer of glycerine on top of the
mixed acids. It is always safest to make any explosive in small
quantities.
7) Stir the mixed acids and glycerine for the first ten minutes of
nitration, adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature
of the solution in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade.
Usually, the nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid
solution, and the concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water
produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below
30 degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker
in step 1. The nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the
beaker, and the water-acid solution on top can be poured off and
disposed of. Drain as much of the acid-water solution as possible
without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place
it into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will
eliminate much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more
stable, and less likely to explode for no reason, which it can do.
Test the nitroglycerine with the litmus paper until the litmus stays
blue. Repeat this step if necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate
solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a
clean container in a safe place. The best place to store
nitroglycerine is far away from anything living, or from anything of
any value. Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even
if it is stored in a secure cool place.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first,
since they are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing
picric acid with metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium
hydroxide, and evaporating the water, metal picrates can be formed.
Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it, and mix it with a solution
of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range molarity.
(about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in stores
and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise
gun store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making
his own low-order explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple
to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black
powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is
mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem:
it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means
that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a
misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the
following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding
bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium
or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker,
and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is
no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never
too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe
container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper.
Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone
to generate static electricity.
3.22 NITROCELLULOSE
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is
more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume
of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is
in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make,
as outlined by the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated funnel and filter paper
nitric acid
blue litmus paper
concentrated
sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready
to be dried and stored.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that
can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are
very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less
effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented,
but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum
effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of
each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer % by weight -- fuel % by weight -- Speed # -- Notes
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/
impact sensitive
rather unstable
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow
charcoal 15% burning;
unstable
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!!!
aluminum dust 25%
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
_________________________________________________________________________
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
permanganate ignition depends
upon grain size
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
permanganate
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium 60% sulfur 20% or 5 unstable
permanganate magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
permanganate
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!!!
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot!!!
or
magnesium 40%
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make
sesquisulfide 25% strike-anywhere
matches
_________________________________________________________________________
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel used
iron oxide in space shuttle
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
_________________________________________________________________________
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
_________________________________________________________________________
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% unstable!!!
impact sensitive
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
permanganate aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
_________________________________________________________________________
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
_________________________________________________________________________
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable. The higher
the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER
ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate
of burning. As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of
fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the
amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be
achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture.
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium
or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some
materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust.
To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the
hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is
a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small
amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively
when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide
are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce
the high explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their
molecular structure is made up of some fuel and usually three or more
NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide ) molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is
an excellent example of such a material. When a shock wave passes
through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond is broken,
and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of microseconds.
This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based explosives.
Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT, several
methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
3.31 R.D.X.
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives.
This is because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is
much easier to detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be
set off by a not-too severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury
fulminate, or nitroglycerine, but it is still too sensitive to be used
alone. R.D.X. can be made by the surprisingly simple method outlined
hereafter. It is much easier to make in the home than all other high
explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
hexamine 500 ml beaker
or
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g)
funnel and filter paper
concentrated
nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
(plastic bucket)
distilled water
centigrade thermometer
table salt
blue litmus paper
ice
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and
carefully pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small
amounts of the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature
will rise, and it must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire
consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding
more ice and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.
Or, ammonium nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it
becomes cold when it is put in water. Continue stirring the mixture,
keeping the temperature below zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty
minutes.
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water.
Filter the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat
steps 4 and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the
crystals more stable and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with
11.1% mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together
in a plastic bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
It is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it
should be possible to desensitize the R.D.X., and increase its power,
since ammonium nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or
potassium nitrate could also be added; a small quantity is sufficient
to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed
to a density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
3.32 AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist according to the
hap-hazard method in section 2.33, or it could be stolen from a
construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because
it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat. A terrorist
could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a drug store or medical
supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium nitrate, from a
terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather powerful
priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency
to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive
failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified
by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or
kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing
moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set
it off.
3.34 T.N.T.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the
best known high explosive, since it has been popularized by early
morning cartoons. It is the standard for comparing other explosives
to, since it is the most well known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by
a three step nitration process that is designed to conserve the nitric
and sulfuric acids which are used to make the product. A terrorist,
however, would probably opt for the less economical one-step method.
The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very strong
(fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with
very strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added
the solution, and it is filtered.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount
of vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through
it, the material will detonate with slightly more power than black
powder. It must, however, be confined to detonate it in this manner.
The procedure for making such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it
is powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
i.e. put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the
potassium chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob.
If necessary, add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react
to greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction,
however, is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.36 DYNAMITE
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine.
It was made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to
shock. A misguided individual with some sanity would, after making
nitroglycerine (an insane act) would immediately convert it to dynamite.
This can be done by adding various materials to the nitroglycerine,
such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large weight of nitroglycerine
per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate could be added,
and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase the
power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
3.37 NITROSTARCH EXPLOSIVES
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.
All that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of
concentrated nitric and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric
acid is added to 10 ml of concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture
is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold water is added, and the apparently
unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out. Nitrostarch explosives are of
slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off
another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive
that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the
concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture
is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow.
The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously
sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For
this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such as ammonium
picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
phenol (9.5 g) 500 ml flask
concentrated adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric or other container
acid (38 ml) suitable for boiling in
distilled water filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5 ml
of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for
about thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and
allow it to cool for about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container
to cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section
3.13, steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol
in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts,
stirring the mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction
should occur. When the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the
flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more
tap water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water,
and heat it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an
ice bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
solution through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and
dispose of it in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of
the filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they
will react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
3.39 AMMONIUM PICRATE
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less
than that required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than
picric acid, since it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable
salts when placed in metal containers. It is simple to make from
picric acid and clear household ammonia. All that need be done is put
the picric acid crystals into a glass container and dissolve them in
a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in excess,
and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should
be ammonium picrate.
3.40 NITROGEN TRICHLORIDE
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily
yellow liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60
degrees celsius, or when it comes in contact with an open flame or
spark. It is fairly simple to produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing
hydrochloric acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with
a stopper and glass pipe.
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of
the beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the
beakers together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done,
oily yellow droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution,
and sink down to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source
immediately. Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the
ammonium nitrate solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker,
but this requires timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by
gently heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the
glass tubes from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the
ammonia-generating flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
3.41 LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly
sensitive explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion
or impact, but it is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire,
or a blasting cap. It is simple to produce, assuming that the
necessary chemicals can be procured. By dissolving sodium azide
and lead acetate in water in separate beakers, the two materials
are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two be together, and apply
a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate solution, until no
reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the beaker
stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate
in hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored
wet for safety. If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire
acetic acid, and put lead metal in it. Black powder bullets work well
for this purpose.
3.5 OTHER "EXPLOSIVES"
The remaining section covers the other types of materials that can be
used to destroy property by fire. Although none of the materials
presented here are explosives, they still produce explosive-style
results.
3.51 THERMIT
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate TREMENDOUS
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does
not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and
aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum
burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really
two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of
about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by an atomic
weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
_________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit.
Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as
homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is
50% / 50% by weight, and can be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount
of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of
sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later
in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a
magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks
placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited. This is the easiest
and most commonly used fuse for thermit firestarters. Place the thermit
and the sparkler-type firework in a cardboard tube. Block each end
allowing only the tip (about 4 to 6 inches) of the sparkler to protrude.
3.52 MOLOTOV COCKTAILS
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is
now exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely
simple to make, and can produce devastating results. By taking any
highly flammable material, such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene,
ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid, turpentine, or any mixture
of the above, and putting it into a large glass bottle, anyone can make
an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable liquid in the
bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of
the cloth around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches
of lose cloth to light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle.
If the burning cloth does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on
impact, the contents of the bottle will spatter over a large area near
the site of impact, and burst into flame. Flammable mixtures such as
kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more volatile and
flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture such
as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such
as this must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown.
3.53 CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail.
Rather than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid,
which has at best a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical
fire bottle utilizes the very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric
acid and potassium chlorate. When the container breaks, the sulfuric
acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the paper soaked in
potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the acid,
instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
_________ _________
potassium chlorate glass bottle
(2 teaspoons) (12 oz.)
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,
with plastic inside
concentrated cooking pan with raised
sulfuric acid (4 oz.) edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup
and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested,
until a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is
excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass
bottle. Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw
the cap on the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water.
Set it aside to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons
of sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling
water, or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle
containing the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel
around the bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places.
Store the bottle in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,
WHICH COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful
explosion. To make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist
would have to do would be to take his container of bottled gas and
place it above a can of Sterno or other gelatinized fuel, and light
the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and on the thickness of
the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and in about five minutes.
In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning
gelatinized fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion.
Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container often puts
out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances
of ignition are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be
extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning
charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective way
of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting
of the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the
burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do
nicely.
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to
vandalism, to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO
BE CARRIED OUT, EITHER IN PART OR IN FULL BY BEGINNERS!!! DOING SO CAN
LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND IMPRISONMENT!!! The first step that a
person that would use explosive would take would be to determine how
big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had to be done.
Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and
determine where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be
necessary to see if the device could be put where he wanted it without
it being discovered or moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit
down and build his explosive device. These are some of the topics
covered in the next section.
4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only
speak in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are
sensitive mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally,
electrical detonation systems are safer than fuses, but there are
times when fuses are more appropriate than electrical systems; it
is difficult to carry an electrical detonation system into a stadium,
for instance, without being caught. A device with a fuse or impact
detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of
waterproof fuse in a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition.
Modern waterproof fuse is extremely reliable, burning at a rate of
about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is available as model rocketry fuse
in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for a nine-foot length.
Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because of its
simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.
Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which
uses fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition
system can be acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But,
since such things do not just float around, the next best thing is to
prepare a fuse system which does not require the use of a match or
lighter, but still retains its simplicity. One such method is
described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure
a 6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press
the start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the
watch when the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the
length of fuse, and you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per
inch. This will be shown below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
---------- = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
------------------- = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME
FUSE, AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS
EXTRA INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device
is to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse,
and cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do
not pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the
cardboard base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the
other one to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the
matches touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely,
making sure not to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are
very secure by pulling on them at the base of the assembly. They should
not be able to move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse,
making sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the
striker faces the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight
around the matches. Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or
to the matches. Leave enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|f|Htape|
| |u| |
|#####|s|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|e|#####|
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
\ |s| /
\ |e| /
|ta|f|pe|
|ta|u|pe|
|s|
|e|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to
the burning match heads.
4.22 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device
is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not
explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used.
This can be done by having a removable impact initiator. The best
and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms
is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost
about $2.50. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that
it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun
stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples
and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the
way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put
the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ v |
| | |
________| |^^^^^^^^| |
| ___________| |
| | |
no. 11 |_______| |
percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing
cap here | | | nipple onto bomb
| |__________| |
|_______ | |
| |^^^^^^^^| |
|_| |
^ |
| |
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is
then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap
can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The
cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple,
to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved
with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface
on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute
on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course,
a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact
regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also
likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest
and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal
for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being
caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one
can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and
be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an
electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will
explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in
less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the
detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time.
The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model
rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well.
Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it
to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are
difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode
when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only
burst into flame. Military squibs can be used to set off sensitive
high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium chlorate mixed with
petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury
fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type
of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically.
This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices
in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere
near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical
detonators will be discussed.
4.241 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a
liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed
glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is
sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging
vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_______wire +______/__+ - \
\ ( Hg ) | /
\ _(_Hg_)__|____/
|
|
wire -
|
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches
both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular
switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing,
since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would
only touch the + contact on the A side. A Current, then could not
flow, since the mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch
is in the verticle position. This type of switch is ideal to place
by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the
verticle position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down,
if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the
switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to touch both
contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and
having it slammed in your face by an explosion.
4.242 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a
nearly invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path
of a victim, and by putting some type of trap there also, nasty
things can be caused to occur. If this mode of thought is applied to
explosives, how would one use such a tripwire to detonate a bomb.
The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of a standard clothespin
with aluminum foil, and placing something between them, and connecting
wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can be
made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between
the contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch.
When the tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together,
allowing current to flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil,
thereby completing a circuit, which would have the igniter or squib
in it. Current would flow between the contacts to the igniter or
squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it to explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
(0) --------------------------spring
insert strip of ------- _foil_____\_____________________
wood with trip- /___________\____________________\
wire between foil
contacts
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring,
since the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can
be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly
when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch.
The problem with radio detonatorsis that they are rather costly.
However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would
wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual
wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit
the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy.
Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do
is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front
wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and
re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for
the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with
squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both
he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts
before the device became a detonator).
4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but
it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This
section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed
by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but
wants to be out of the country when it does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses
for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette.
An average cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar"
and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and
nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine
cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended,
i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place,
a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse,
but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying
fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance
to make sure they stay lit, and to see how long it will burn. Once a
cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully
putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the
point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter (butt)
|=|
|=|
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a
sheet of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube,
and fill it with powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired
location, and insert a fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and
one end of the delay must be doused with lighter fluid before it is
lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with powdered charcoal
could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used to delay a fuse by merely lining up
a few bricks of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end,
and lighting the first brick. Incense, which can be purchased at
almost any novelty or party supply store, can also be used as a
fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse about the end of an
incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible. Finally,
it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the home.
By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup
of boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long
piece of all cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After
the soaked string dries, it must then be tied to the fuse of an
explosive device. Sometimes, the end of the slow burning fuse that
meets the normal fuse has a charge of black powder or gunpowder at
the intersection point to insure ignition, since the slow-burning fuse
does not burn at a very high temperature.
A similar type of slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture
of boiling water and black powder and pouring it on a long piece of
toilet paper. The wet toilet paper is then gently twisted up so that
it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is allowed to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual
who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal
its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed
in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are
several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one
contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour
hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made.
The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.
_____________________ to igniter from igniter
| | : :
| 12 | ............. :
| 11 1 | : :
| | : :
| 10 2 | : .......................: : | ...........|......: :
| ...........|......: :
|9 /o 3| :
| / | :
| 8 / 4 | :
| o..........|.... :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | :....+ -
|_____________________| __+____-___
| |
| battery |
o -contacts | |
..... -wire | |
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of
the clock reaches the contact near the numeral 6, it will complete
the circuit, allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be
set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is
used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to
24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic
clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer
with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize this type of
timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into. All
that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired
time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an
electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to
the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would
be good, since such a timer could be extremely small. The timer in
a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be
set for times of a week or longer! The leads from the timer to the
recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would
be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a
relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the
current of the watch would not have to be stepped up.
4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric
acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap
that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric
acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and
hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end
so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not
break the container.
| |
| |
| |
|_______________|
| |
|sulfuric |
| |
| |acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_______ _______| | (several thicknesses)
|___________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and
secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum
foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid
that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass
container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when
both of the wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If
the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,
the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be
used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the
igniter for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in
a 50/50 ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an
igniter for the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
4.4 EXPLOSIVE CONTAINERS
This section will cover everything from making a simple firecracker
to a complicated scheme for detonating an insensitive high explosive,
both of which are methods that could be utilized by perpetrators of
terror.
4.41 PAPER CONTAINERS
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are
usually very simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There
are many possible uses for paper in containing explosives, and the
two most obvious are in firecrackers and rocket engines. Simply by
rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it together, one can
make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and dangerous
use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process
of their manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football.
If one takes a sheet of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches
wide, and fold one corner so that it looks like this:
______________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|_____________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
____________________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder,
pyrodex, flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the
quick-burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a
fine powder. A fuse is then inserted, and one continues the
triangular folds, being careful not to spill out any of the
explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped together
very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The
finished polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick
triangle, like the one shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse
4.42 METAL CONTAINERS
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off
the match heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a
hammer, pour in the white-tipped matches, and then pound the other
end closed. This process often kills the fool, since when he
pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause enough friction
between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the
unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer,
and the less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in
a bomb. He would buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1).
First, he would drill a hole in one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so
that it will not come out, and so powder will not escape during
handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long inside the
bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He
would then pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly,
he would take a large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe
to the very top, pack the powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod
tip, and pushing it with a pencil or other wide ended object, until it
would not move any further. Finally, he would screw the other pipe cap
on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help prevent some of the
powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe cap from
being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is
presented in fig. 2.
_______ _______
| | pipe--- | |
| vvvvvv| | |vvvvvv |
| | ^^^^^^____________________________^^^^^^ | |
| | : : | |
cap --->| | : : | |
| | : : | |
| | : : | |
| | : : | |<--- cap
| | : ____________________________ : | |
| | vvvvvv vvvvvv | |
| ^^^^^^| |^^^^^^ |
|_______| |_______|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
______ ______
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_| *
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ===================***
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| *
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| | fuse
| |__________________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
pipe
endcap endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always
use a piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into
a suitable position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is
bending and folding it without tearing it; if too much force is used
when folding and bending copper pipe, it will split along the fold.
The safest method for making a pipe bomb out of copper or aluminum pipe
is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps. First, one flattens
one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure not to
tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be
folded over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole
should be drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse
should be inserted. Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with
a low order explosive, and pack it with a large wad of tissue paper.
He would then flatten and fold the other end of the pipe with a pair
of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this slowly, since the
process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which could set
off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
_______
______________________________________________/ |
| |
| o |
|______________________________________________ |
\_______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
_____
___________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
_________ fuse hole
:
V
_______________________________________ ___ _____
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|___________________________________________/
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
____________ fuse
/
|
______ ______________________________|___ ______
| ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - - - | - \ |____ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\__________________________________/
fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B. gun is another excellent container for a
low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time
consuming to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening
of the cartridge with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to
be done is to fill the CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive,
or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures, and insert a
fuse. These devices are commonly called "crater makers",
"gang blasters" or "block busters". They are VERY reliable and
fairly safe.
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit
incendiary device, but it must be modified. The opening in the
end must be widened, so that the ignition mixture, such as powdered
magnesium, does not explode. The fuse will ignite the powdered
magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the thermit. The previously
mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for low-order
explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since
the latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing
a smaller low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing
a high-order explosive would probably be used. It would look
something like:
_______________________ fuse
|
|
|
_______ | _______
| ____|__________________________|___________|____ |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * *: | :* * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * high explosive* : | : * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * *: | :* * * * * * | |
| | * ____ ______________\|/ ____ * | |
| | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | |
| | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | |
| | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | |
| | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| |______________________________________________| |
|_______| |_______|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2
cartridge, then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made
into a low-order pipe bomb, which can be fitted with a fuse, and
inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
4.43 GLASS CONTAINERS
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but
there are problems with them. First, a glass container can be
broken relatively easily compared to metal or plastic containers.
Secondly, in the not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person
making the device would probably be seriously injured, even if the
device was small. A bomb made out of a sample perfume bottle-sized
container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he still has pieces
of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of his
ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used
by a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected
by metal detectors in an airport or other public place. All that
need be done is fill the container, and drill a hole in the plastic
cap that the fuse fits tightly in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
|/ | \|
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
V V
________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
|- - - - - - |
| - - - - - -|
|- - - - - - |
| - - - - - -|
|__________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is NOT an exceptionally strong container. Much of the
explosive that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container
is much larger than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are
usually unsuitable for high explosive devices, since a glass container
would probably not withstand the explosion of the initiator; it would
shatter before the high explosive was able to detonate. The BEST glass
cased bombs are VERY small (bottles for purfume, hobby paints, etc.)
and use a low order explosive. Keep it in mind. Waste not, want not!!!
4.44 PLASTIC CONTAINERS
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives,
since they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass.
Plastic piping can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a
device much like the ones used for metal containers can be made.
The high-order version works well with plastic piping. If the
entire device is made out of plastic, it is not detectable by metal
detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They
can be glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy
alone can be used as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed
in the piping. Epoxy with a drying agent works best in this type
of device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********<<<----------------------- fuse
||***************||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
|| ||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before
the device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another
piece of tissue paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with
plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe works well for this type of device, but it
cannot be used if the pipe had an inside diameter greater than 3/4
of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used in this type of device,
but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
4.5 ADVANCED USES FOR EXPLOSIVES
The techniques presented here are those that could be used by a person
who had some degree of knowledge of the use of explosives. Some of
this information comes from demolitions books, or from military
handbooks. Advanced uses for explosives usually involved shaped
charges, or utilize a minimum amount of explosive to do a maximum
amount of damage. They almost always involve high-order explosives.
4.51 SHAPED CHARGES
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This
process can be used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of
literally millions of pounds of pressure per square inch can be
generated. Shaped charges employ high-order explosives, and usually
electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL EXPLOSIVES ARE
DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED BY BEGINNERS!!!
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ - wire
| |
| |
| |
_ __________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | /*\ | |
| | | /* *\ | |
| | | /* * *\ | |
| | | /* * * *\ | |
| | | /* * * * *\ | |
| | | /* * * * * *\ | |
| | /* * * * * * *\ | |
8 inches high | | /* * * * * * * *\ | |
| | /* * * high * * *\ | |
| | | /* * * explosive * *\ | |
| | | /* * * * charge * * *\ | |
| | | /* * * * * * * * * * * *\ | |
| | |/* * * * * * * * * * * * *\| |
| | |* * * * * * *^* * * * * * *| |
| | | * * * * * */ \* * * * * * | |
| | |* * * * * */ \* * * * * *| |
| | | * * * * */ \* * * * * | |
| | |* * * * */ \* * * * *| |
| | | * * * */ \* * * * | |
| | |* * * */ \* * * *| |
| | | * * */ \* * * | |
| | |* * */ \* * *| |
| | | * */ \* * | | ------- 1/2 inch thick
| | |* */ \* *| | steel pipe
| | | */ \* | |
| | |*/ \*| |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
| | | | |
|______ __________| | | |___________ ______
|______| |____________| |_____________| |______|
|<------------------------------ 8 inches ------------------------------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from
the opening of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped
opening in the explosive material. This cone should have an angle of
45 degrees. A device such as this one could also be attached to a
metal surface with a powerful electromagnet.
4.52 TUBE EXPLOSIVES
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled
with a sensitive high explosive such as R.D.X., and prepared as the
plastic explosive container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped
charge could be produced; a charge that directs explosive force in a
circular manner. This type of explosive could be wrapped around a
column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole. The explosion would be
directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever it was wrapped
around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like this:
|| ||
|| ||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
|| ||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| __ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of
the tube bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to
the squib wires, and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric
detonation.
4.53 ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very
small particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area,
an explosion similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile
is produced. The tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the
hot gasses expand rapidly, pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a
gallon of gasoline was atomized and ignited in a building, it is very
possible that the expanding gassed would push the walls of the building
down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle explosion. If
a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly flammable
substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example,
can be extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive.
If a gallon jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive
charge, and the charge was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be
atomized and ignited. If this occurred in a building, for example, an
atomized particle explosion would surely occur. Only a small amount of
high explosive would be necessary to accomplish this feat, about 1/2 a
pound of T.N.T., or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead of gasoline,
powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high explosive
be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable
material.
4.54 LIGHTBULB BOMBS
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the
overhead light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make.
It also comes with its own initiator and electric ignition system.
On some lightbulbs, the lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal
base by heating the base of a lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that
of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must be done carefully, since the
inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue gets hot enough, the
glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other bulbs, it is
necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or oxy-acetylene
torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked in
the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either
case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or
lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as
black powder. Another good substitute for black powder in a light
bulb bomb is a mixture of gasoline and liquid dish soap. The gasoline
provides your fuel and when mixed with the soap it will burn MUCH
longer. The soap also allows the burning mixture to stick to
EVERYTHING it touches and provides a very messy fire.
If the glass was removed from the metal base, it must be
glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb,
a piece of duct tape or dollop of epoxy is sufficient to hold the
explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket
has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device
has been used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since
nobody can search the room for a bomb without first turning on the
light.
4.55 BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often
searched by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual
might intend to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is
to build what is called a book bomb; an explosive device that is
entirely contained inside of a book. Usually, a relatively large book
is required, and the book must be of the hardback variety to hide any
protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law books, large textbooks, and
other such books work well. When an individual makes a bookbomb,
he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for the place
where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a book
bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By
pouring an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket,
and filling the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can
be made that will hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After
the glue-water solution has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the
solution has been stirred well, the pages of the book must be immersed
in the glue-water solution, and each page must be thoroughly soaked.
It is extremely important that the covers of the book do not get stuck
to the pages of the book while the pages are drying. Suspending the
book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice works
best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole
must be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out
much like wood. Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the
pages and sawing out a rectangle from the middle of the book, the
individual will be left with a shell of the book's pages. The pages,
when drilled out, should look like this:
______________________
| __________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | empty | |
| | space | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio
controlled variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb
itself, and whatever timer or detonator is used, should be packed in
foam to prevent it from rolling or shifting about. Finally, after
the timer is set, or the radio control has been turned on, the front
cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its destination.
4.56 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past
to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple:
when the person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but
powerful high explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone
receiver, when the current flowed through the receiver, the squib
would explode, detonating the high explosive in the person's hand.
Nasty. All that has to be done is acquire a squib, and tape the
receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece cover, and remove the
speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was. Place a high
explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by
the C-1. Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the
individual to whom the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he
will notice the tape, and remove it. This will allow current to flow
through the squib. Note that the device will not explode by merely
making a phone call; the owner of the phone must lift up the receiver,
and remove the tape. It is highly probable that the phone will be
by his/her ear when the device explodes...
5.0 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PROJECTILE WEAPONS
Explosive and/or poisoned ammunition is an important part of a social
deviant's arsenal. Such ammunition gives the user a distinct advantage
over individual who use normal ammunition, since a grazing hit is good
enough to kill. Special ammunition can be made for many types of
weapons, from crossbows to shotguns.
5.1 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR PRIMITIVE WEAPONS
For the purposes of this publication, we will call any weapon
primitive that does not employ burning gunpowder to propel a projectile
forward. This means blowguns, bows and crossbows, and wristrockets.
5.11 BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult
matter to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can
acquire aluminum piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or
crossbow bolt, the entire segment of piping can be converted into an
explosive device that detonates upon impact, or with a fuse. All that
need be done is find an aluminum tube of the right length and diameter,
and plug the back end with tissue paper and epoxy. Fill the tube with
any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-order explosive up to
about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece of tubing,
and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making
sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the
hole, and secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the
device with electrical or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or,
fins can be bought at a sporting goods store, and glued to the shaft.
The finished product should look like:
___
| | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap
||*||
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*| ----------- aluminum piping
|*|
|e|
|x|
|p|
|l|
|o|
|s|
|i|
|v|
|e|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
/|_|\
/ |t| \
| |p| |
| |_| |
| |e| | -------- fins
| |p| |
| |y| |
|_|_|_|
|_|
tp: tissue paper
epy: epoxy
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
5.12 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an
explosive or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive
dart or projectile is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design
for such involves the use of a pill capsule, such as the kind that
are taken for headaches or allergies. Such a capsule could easily
be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the capsule would be
re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional high
explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,
if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule
would be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued
to the end containing the high explosive, to insure that the
impact-detonating explosive struck the target first. Such a device
would probably be about 3/4 of an inch long, not including the tassel
or cotton, and look something like this:
___________________
/mercury | \-----------------------
(fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels
\________|__________/-----------------------
5.13 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter
marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft.,
it could well be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a
vital area. Because of the relatively large sized projectile that
can be used in a wristrocket, the wristrocket can be adapted to
throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles. A small segment of
aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device by
filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such
a pipe could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a
fuse, which would be lit before the device was shot. One would have
to make sure that the fuse was of sufficient length to insure that the
device did not explode before it reached its intended target.
Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that are used in .22
caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for
wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range,
because of their light weight.
5.2 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR FIREARMS
When special ammunition is used in combination with the power and
rapidity of modern firearms, it becomes very easy to take on a
small army with a single weapon. It is possible to buy explosive
ammunition, but that can be difficult to do. Such ammunition can
also be manufactured in the home. There is, however, a risk involved
with modifying any ammunition. If the ammunition is modified
incorrectly, in such a way that it makes the bullet even the slightest
bit wider, an explosion in the barrel of the weapon will occur. For
this reason, NOBODY WITHOUT PROPER EXPERIENCE SHOULD EVER ATTEMPT TO
MANUFACTURE SUCH AMMUNITION!!!
5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an
impact-sensitive explosive and a few simple tools. One would first
purchase all lead bullets, and then make or acquire an
impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole in a lead
bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement
of an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it
would be sealed in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle.
A diagram of a completed exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
5.22 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create
some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If
a shotgun shell is opened at the top, and the shot is removed, the
shell can be re-closed. Then, if one can find a very smooth,
lightweight wooden dowel that is close to the bore width of the
shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-launched weapons.
Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the shell without
the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches away
from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next,
decide what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used.
This device can be a chemical fire bottle (see sect. 3.43), a pipe
bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb (sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the
device is made, it must be securely attached to the dowel. When this
is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or incendiary
device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device
has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the
projectile is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible.
A diagram of a shotgun projectile is shown below.
___
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
|| *
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
5.3 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR COMPRESSED AIR/GAS WEAPONS
This section deals with the manufacture of special ammunition for
compressed air or compressed gas weapons, such as pump B.B. guns,
CO2 B.B. guns, and .22 cal pellet guns. These weapons, although
usually thought of as kids toys, can be made into rather dangerous
weapons.
5.31 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS
A B.B. gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle
or pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile
with a caliber of .177, either B.B., or lead pellet. Such guns can
have almost as high a muzzle velocity as a bullet-firing rifle.
Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber projectile flies, an
impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a caliber
of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use
primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be
bought at gun stores, since many people like to reload their own
bullets. Such primers detonate when struck by the firing pin of a
gun. They will also detonate if they are thrown at a hard surface at
a great speed. Usually, they will also fit in the barrel of a .177
caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they will detonate
when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is attached
to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the
tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B.
gun. A diagram of such a projectile appears below.
_____ primers _____
| |
| |
| |
V V
_____ _____
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------- cotton
|_____ _____|-------------------
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.
The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is
glued on. Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to
the rear primer, to insure that the projectile strikes on the front
primer. The entire projectile should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
5.32 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles
can be adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar
to that used in section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are
about .22 caliber or smaller. Or, a design similar to that in section
5.31 could be used, only one would have to purchase black powder
percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since there are
percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small,
but anything larger will do nicely.
6.0 ROCKETS AND CANNONS
Rockets and cannon are generally thought of as heavy artillery.
Perpetrators of violence do not usually employ such devices, because
they are difficult or impossible to acquire. They are not, however,
impossible to make. Any individual who can make or buy black powder
or pyrodex can make such things. A terrorist with a cannon or large
rocket is, indeed, something to fear.
6.1 ROCKETS
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of
fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because
they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times,
however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are
cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence,
fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or
buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space
age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a
subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets
and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine,
can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively
large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies,
such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up
to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable,
and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines
have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
_________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
_______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area
labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large
single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns,
forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow
nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been
consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually
a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various
compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white,
or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be
seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is
burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The
ejection charge is finely powdered black powder. It burns very
rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge
pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be
used to ignite the fuse of a bomb... Rocket engines have their own
peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are:
1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as
powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful
as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is
the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. the final number and
letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of
engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a
3 second delay. NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant
can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a
very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by
an epoxy.
6.11 BASIC ROCKET BOMB
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such
a device would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By
cutting fins from balsa wood and gluing them to a large rocket
engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a basic rocket could be
constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2 cartridge
bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the
fuse of the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over
the ejection charge of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic
tool. The fuse of the bomb should be touching the ejection charge, as
shown below.
__________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
_______________________________ V
|_______________________________| ______________________
\ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|===fuse=== # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - -
smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the
ejection charge Many different types of explosive payloads can be
attached to the rocket, such as a high explosive, an incendiary device,
or a chemical fire bottle. Either four or three fins must be glued
to the rocket engine to insure that the rocket flies straight. The
fins should look like this:
|\
| \
| \
| \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
| |
| |
leading | |
edge | |
-----> | |
| |
| | trailing edge
| | <--------
| |
| |
| |
| |
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight.
A two inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the
rocket to launch it from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into
a launch rod. The segment of a plastic straw should be glued to the
rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins of the rocket. A front view
of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
|
|
fin | <------ fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
---------------| * |---------------
\_____/
|o <---------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the
rocket is simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the
segment of plastic straw. The rocket should slide easily along the
coathanger.
____
/ \
| |
cut here |
| |
| \_
| / \
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
6.12 LONG RANGE ROCKET BOMB
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in
multi-stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent
example of such an engine. Immediately after the thrust period is
over, the ejection charge explodes. If another engine is placed
directly against the back of an "0" engine, the explosion of the
ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning particles into the
nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section. This
will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall
loss of weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that
it loses weight as travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage
rocket must be designed somewhat differently than a single stage
rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly straight, its center of
gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is accomplished by
adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the center of
drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the rocket.
A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears below:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give
it a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional
stage, the fin area gets larger.
6.13 MULTIPLE WARHEAD ROCKET BOMBS
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This
can be done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to
make crater-makers and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater
makers with long fuses to a rocket, it is possible that a single rocket
could deliver several explosive devices to a target. Such a rocket
might look like this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
|___|
_| |_
/ | | \
| | T | |
/ \ | U | / \
/ \| B |/ \
| || E || |
| C || || C |
| M || || M |
| ||___|| |
\___/| E |\___/
| N |
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/ | E | \
/ |___| \
/ fin/ | \ fin\
| / | \ |
\__/ | \__/
^
\____ fin
The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape.
The paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece
of paper. The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder
or black powder. Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the
crater makers are inserted in these holes. A crater maker is glued to
the open end of the tube, so that its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse
is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom engine if the rocket bomb
is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the coathanger launcher,
if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.
6.2 CANNON
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the 11th
century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,
loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each
shot, otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired,
causing the barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without
too much trouble, if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
6.21 BASIC PIPE CANNON
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The
only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its
interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may
jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must
also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the
expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such as a
CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe
that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls
that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the
interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the
pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or
endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two
teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly
by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2
cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light
the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged
the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such
a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
__________ _____________________________________________________
| |________ _____________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| _____|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a
CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater
maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch
from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape,
covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this
in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the
cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the
CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about
three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like
this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|\ /|
| | | ---- tape
|_|_|
| ------ fuse
6.22 ROCKET FIRING CANNON
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the
only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will
fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it
overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is
moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary.
Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have
no fins. It would look like this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
The fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not
be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the
delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before
the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the
burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and imultaneously push the
rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity.
7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of
violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores,
and large military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and
military magazines. Finally, fireworks can also be used as weapons
of terror. A large aerial display rocket would cause many injuries
if it were to be fired so that it landed on the ground near a crowd
of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which consists
of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running through
it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be
useful to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly
disseminated over a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with
nasty effects.
7.1 SMOKE BOMBS
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist
in many ways would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the
getaway route, or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a
device, were it to produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could
force the evacuation of a building, for example. Smoke bombs are not
difficult to make. Although the military smoke bombs employ powdered
white phosphorus or titanium compounds, such materials are usually
unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist. Instead, he/she
would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves. Most homemade smoke
bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder
or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well,
and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to
burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur
and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust,
especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder
works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces
of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The
material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a
base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer mixtures,
if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a
successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic
cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole
in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow
the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another
plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the
smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent
an explosion.
7.2 COLORED FLAMES
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for terrorists.
By putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket,
when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball.
The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear
below.
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
_____ ________ _______
___________________________________________________________
red strontium road flares,
salts red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
____________________________________________________________
green barium salts green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
____________________________________________________________
yellow sodium salts gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
____________________________________________________________
blue powdered copper blue sparklers,
old pennies
____________________________________________________________
white powdered magnesium firestarters,
or aluminum aluminum foil
____________________________________________________________
purple potassium permanganate purple fountains,
treating sewage
____________________________________________________________
7.3 TEAR GAS
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could
use it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is
fairly complicated to make, however, and this prevents such
individuals from being able to utilize its great potential for
harm. One method for its preparation is shown below.
EQUIPMENT
_________
1. ring stands (2)
2. alcohol burner
3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml
4. clamps (2)
5. rubber stopper
6. glass tubing
7. clamp holder
8. condenser
9. rubber tubing
10. collecting flask
11. air trap
12. beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
_________
10 gms glycerine
2 gms sodium bisulfate
distilled water
1) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
4) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a
brown residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete.
Remove the heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is
corrosive.
5) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the
collecting flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored
in a safe place.
7.4 FIREWORKS
While fireworks cannot really be used as an effective means of terror,
they do have some value as distractions or incendiaries. There are
several basic types of fireworks that can be made in the home, whether
for fun, profit, or nasty uses.
7.41 FIRECRACKERS
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The
instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it
with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of
the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough
space for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and
allow it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the
sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device
will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the
sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be
produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take
a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I
could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would
mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder.
(NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED
WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!!!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and
add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the
material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make
sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would
test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put
it in the firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
7.42 SKYROCKETS
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home
from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the
powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube
covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder
in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the
tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be
produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
7.43 ROMAN CANDLES
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult
to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they
are well worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with
several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to
prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch
lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and
insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse
fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small
amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler
material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders
well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until
a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and
should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste
that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a
colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about
30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger
powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
8.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be
obtained through a public or university library. There are also
many publications that are put out by people who want to make
money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds
for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers.
This list is presented to show the large number of places that
information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes
fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
______________________________________________________________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
______________________________________________________________________
UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
______________________________________________________________________
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE SR BOX 30 WITH
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
18328
_______________________________________________________________________
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY
125 RUNNELS STREET MATERIALS, AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
_______________________________________________________________________
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
_______________________________________________________________________
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
_______________________________________________________________________
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
_______________________________________________________________________
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
_______________________________________________________________________
RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
_______________________________________________________________________
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
_______________________________________________________________________
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11 GOOD PRICES!!!
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
_______________________________________________________________________
BOOKS
_______________________________________________________________________
THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
_______________________________________________________________________
9.0 CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if
he/she wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have
to steal the chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of
such chemicals in order of priority would probably resemble the
following:
LIQUIDS SOLIDS
_______ ______
____ Nitric Acid ____ Potassium Perchlorate
____ Sulfuric Acid ____ Potassium Chlorate
____ 95% Ethanol ____ Picric Acid (usually a powder)
____ Toluene ____ Ammonium Nitrate
____ Perchloric Acid ____ Powdered Magnesium
____ Hydrochloric Acid ____ Powdered Aluminum
____ Potassium Permanganate
____ Sulfur
____ Mercury
____ Potassium Nitrate
____ Potassium Hydroxide
____ Phosphorus
____ Sodium Azide
____ Lead Acetate
____ Barium Nitrate
10.0 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few
basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It
assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not
understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first
five chapters of a high school chemistry book.
1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O
4 4 2
2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
" + HNO ----> KNO + "
3 3
3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + "
3 4 3 4
4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + "
3 3 3 3
5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H
3 2
B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al
3 2
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the
container which must be filtered and dried. This same method
works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too
valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such
a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.
The following is a supplement to the TERRORIST'S HANDBOOK. It contains
many additional substances and techniques not shown in the original book.
A1 Plastic Explosives
You can make your own plastic explosives by mixing seven (7) parts
potassium chlorate with one (1) part petroleum jelly. (Vaseline will
do fine). Use an electric charge or fuse to ignite.
A2 Thermit
Thermit is a powerful substance that can burn through practically
anything, save tunsten. It is especially of use in trying to break
into safes, pay phones, or lockers. Here are simple instructions for
making this substance.
1) The first step in making thermit is to make hematite. In
layman's terms, hematite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method
of making large quantities of rust. You will electolyze a metal rod,
such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well.
An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the
POSITIVE terminal. Then place the rod and a wire from the negative
terminal in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a
little salt in the water, just enough to conduct well (a teaspoon).
Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be a dark red
crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water or just fish it
out with a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron
pot until it all turns a nice light red.
2) The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can
either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum at
your local hardware shop. (If you buy the bar, use no less than 94%
pure aluminum. It's called duralumin.)
3) Mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be
eight (8) parts rust to three (3) parts aluminum filings. That's
thermit!!!
4) To light it, stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the
thermit. Either steal it from a chemistry lab (The easiest!!!) or buy
it from a local hardware store. Alternatively, you can order from a
chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap. The ribbon should stick into
the thermit like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium. When the burning
magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light. GET THE HELL AWAY at or
before this point! Thermite can vaporise carbon steel. It obviously
will do wonders on human flesh, so be careful.
A3 Terrorism
My high school chemistry teacher taught me about this one...
Inject a mixture of gasoline and liquid detergent (dishwashing liquid)
into a light bulb (make sure that it is turned off). When someone hits
the light switch to turn it on, it's, how shall I say it, EXPLOSIVE!!!
The gasoline is ignited and the detergent makes it stick to everything
when it explodes, still burning. Don't try this unless you know what
you are doing, it could be deadly.
A4 Revenge Bomb
The parts you will need are:
1) 4 AA Batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 SPDT mini-relay (get it from radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine, smoke bomb, or m-80
5) 1 rocket ignitor (squib)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
Step 1: Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's
coil. This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that,
when separated, cut off the circuit. These contacts should be held
together by trapping them between your target locker, mailbox, or
car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the
9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed
position and close the ignition circuit. (If this is confusing,
a schematic follows.)
Step 2: Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in series. Wire the
positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of the next until
they are all in one string except for one positive terminal at one
end and a negative terminal at the other end. Even though the four
AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in
amperage is necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and
effectively.
Step 3: Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of
it to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the
solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back
to the open position on the relay.
Step 4: Using double sided carpet tape, mount the entire thing
inside the target locker, mailbox, car, etc. door. Last of all,
insert the solar ignitor into the rocket engine (smoke bomb,
M-80, etc) and make sure it is mounted securely.
________><________
| |
| (contacts) |
| ---
| - (9-volt battery)
| ---
| |
|______(coil)______|
///////_
__________/
| _________
\ \ | |
\ \_| |
(switch) | |
| |
| ---
| - (battery pack)
| ---
| |
|_________|
A5 Assorted bombs.
1) Shotgun shell bombs
These are simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with
cardboard fins put on. On the primer (open) end of the shell is
glued a small cork with a hole drilled through it. A roofing nail
fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in but loose enough to
punch into the primer upon impact. These bombs are thrown singly
or by the handful far away from your person! The weight of the shell
and the stabilisation of the fins causes the nose of the bomb to
head downward.
___ ____ fin
| \ /
| \ cork
-----------------|
| shell ****
------ <--nail--|
| ****
-----------------|
| /
|___/
\____fin
The Flame Thrower
An excellent little flamethrower can be made using just about any
metal or plastic hand squirter (such as a windex bottle). The only
consideration is that the liquid must come out in a stream instead of
an atomized spray. Some oil cans can shoot a stream 30 feet. Sprayers
can often be adjusted from a spray to a stream. A six-inch tube,
usually aluminum or brass, is fitted on the nozzle. A wick or piece
of heavy cloth is wired onto the other end of the tube. The fuel
used is gasoline, acetone, or lighter fluid.
To use, the tube is tilted downward slightly. The sprayer is squeezed
slowly so that the fuel will dribble out and saturate the wick. The
wick is then lit and the device is aimed and squeezed. Quick, hard
squeezes will squirt the fuel through the tube and past the burning
wick. The wick ignites the fuel and you have a handy little
flamethrower.
Gas Tank Bombs
Condensation in a car's gas tank puts a layer of water on its bottom.
Gelatin capsules filled with one part calcium carbide and one part pure
sodium are dropped into a car's gas tank. In a few minutes there is an
incredible explosion as the gelatin is disolved by the water, and the
sodium ignites. Gelatin capsules filled with more gelatin are available
at the supermarket. The gelatin is emptied from the capsule and a B.B.
is put into each to make it sink to the bottom. Slivers of metallic
sodium and chunks of carbide are then put into the capsules. Seal the
capsules again; put them into a plastic bag to keep them dry. The
waiting time can be up to half an hour, or as little as a minute.
Incendiaries
These are unparalelled for generating sheer terror. They burn about
4000 degrees, and give out a blinding light. Wartime incendiaries
had magnesium castings, which burn fiercely. If water was put on
them, they disintegrated, sending burning metal in all directions.
Magnesium tubing is not readily available, so do-it-yourselfers will
have to settle for aluminum. Aluminum tubing is available at any
hardware store. It doesn't burn as fiercely as magnesium, but is still
pretty awful. The tubing should be at least 1.5" in diameter. This is
to make sure there is enough thermite to burn the tubing. Aluminum
tubing is cut into suitable lengths, and slices of large dowel are cut
for plugs. One slice is drilled to accommodate the fuse.
As illustrated, two holes are drilled into the tube for a bent nail and
a few lengths of coat-hanger wire. When these are installed and the
wire is taped to the tube, the thermite is put in. The tube is filled
nearly full and tapped until the thermite is one inch from the top. A
circle of tissue paper is then put in to keep the thermite from blending
with the ignitor. The ignitor is a mixture of one part, by weight, of
powdered magnesium and two parts barium peroxide. This is mixed
carefully, preferably rolling back and forth inside a plastic container.
This mixture can be sensitive, and gloves and goggles are a recommended
precaution. When mixed, a one-half inch layer of thermite igniter is put
into the tube. Another circle of tissue is added and one-fourth of an
inch of flare igniter is spread in. The one fourth inch of inside
tubing is cleaned of flare igniter to accommodate the plug. A bare fuse
is stick straight up in the center of the flare igniter and is left to
dry for a day or two. Then the drilled plug is smeared with glue on the
edge and pushed over the fuse. Then flare igniter is daubed on the
fuse and when dry, the device is ready to use. The nail and coathanger
wire can be omitted if you mean to throw it by hand. Otherwise, the
delivery system is a slingshot. The nail is put into the sling and the
device is pulled back by the length of wire and shot.
___flare ign.
plug__ b.p.&m.__ /
V V V
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
::*************THERMITE****************+++++++++======== <- fuse
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
::*************************************+++++++++@@@::
| ___/
- <- nail plug
Simple Smoke Bomb
Mix four (4) parts sugar with six (6) parts potassium nitrate.
Heat over low flame until it melts. Stir well, then pour into
container. Before it solidifies, put a few matches in for fuses.
One pound of this substance will fill a city block nicely with a
thick cloud of white smoke.
Generic Bomb
1) Aquire a glass container
2) Put in a few DROPS of gasoline
3) cap the top
4) turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces.
5) add a few drops of potassium permanganate
6) throw it against a solid object to ignite.
Take care!!! This is the explosive equivalent of half a stick of dynamite!!!
Unstable explosive
1) Mix solid nitric iodine with household ammonioa
2) wait overnight
3) pour out liquid
4) dry the mud on the bottom till hard (like concrete)
The resulting substance is unstable!!! Merely throw something at it to
ignite, preferably from a considerable distance. Like off a 20 story
building!!!
Medium-strength explosive
Mix seven (7) parts potassium chlorate to one (1) part petroleum
jelly. Use electric charge or fuse to ignite.
Alternate car bomb
Put liquid drano into a prescription-pill container.
Close the lid tightly, and pop it in the gas tank.
Run!!!
Napalm (Let's be careful with this one!!!)
Napalm can be made at home with one (1) part gasoline and one (1) part
soap. Use either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergent won't do.
Heat the gasoline in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is in
a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity.
The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double
boiler is taken from the stove and taken to a place where there is NO
flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part
and allowed to heat as much as it will. The soap is added and the mess
is stirred until it thickens.
Nitroglycerin
Nitroglycerin is the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives such as
straight dynamites, and gelatin dynamites.
Making Nitroglycerin
====================
1. Fill a 75ml beaker to the 13ml level with fuming red nitric acid,
of 98% pure concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool well below room
temperature.
3. After it has cooled, add 39ml of fuming sulfuric acid (99%H2SO4).
Remember that when mixing acids, you should do it slowly and
carefully to avoid splattering. Especially with this stuff!!!
4. When the two are mixed, lower the temperature by adding more ice
to the bath. This is necessary because the mixing of the two
acids may generate some heat. The temperature should drop to
about 10-15 degrees centigrade. Use a mercury thermometer.
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature,
it is ready for the glycerin. The glycerin must be added in
small amounts using a medicine dropper. (READ THIS STEP
ABOUT TEN TIMES! BE *VERY* CAREFUL!!!). Add it slowly (SLOWLY!!!)
until the entire surface of the acid is covered with it.
6. This is a DANGEROUS point. The nitration is taking place: as
soon as the glycerin is added, the nitration will be producing
heat. Keep the solution below 30 degrees centigrade! If it goes
above 30 degrees, dump it into the ice bath immediately! This
will ensure that it does not blow you and your lab into the next
country.
7. For the first ten minutes of the nitration, the mixture should
be gently (GENTLY!!!) stirred. In a normal reaction the
nitroglycerin will form as a layer on the top of the acid
solution, while the sulfuric acid absorbs the ecess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the nitroglycerin has
formed on the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be
transferred slowly (SLOWLY!) and carefully (CAREFULLY!) to
another beaker of water. When this is done the nitroglycerin will
settle at the bottom so the acids can be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerin, remove the nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and
place it in a bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution.
The sodium will neutralize much of the remaining acid. This
process should be repeated as much as necessary using blue
litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining
acid only makes the nitroglycerin more unstable than it already
is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the nitroglycerin from
the bicarbonate. This is done with an eye dropper, slowly and
carefully. The usual test to see if nitration has been successful
is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on a metal plate and
ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will burn with a clear
blue flame.
SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS
===================
Nitroglycerin is very sensitive to decomposition, heating,
dropping, or jarring and may explode even if left undisturbed
and cool. Take special care with this substance.
Dynamite
Now that you've made your nitroglycerin, you can make your own dynamite.
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilising agent to
make it safer to use. I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with NG in the
instructions that follow. The numbers given are percentages, and be sure
to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
No. Ingredients Amount
======================================
#1 NG 32
Sodium nitrate 28
Woodmeal 10
Ammonium Oxalate 29
#2 NG 24
Potassium Nitrate 9
Sodium Nitrate 56
Woodmeal 9
Ammonium Oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
Potassium Nitrate 44.5
Woodmeal 6
Guncotton 2.5
Petroleum Jelly 5.5
Powdered Charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
Potassium Nitrate 26
Woodmeal 34
Barium Nitrate 5
Starch 10
#5 NG 57
Potassium Nitrate 19
Woodmeal 9
Ammonium Oxalate 12
Guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
Sodium Nitrate 70
Woodmeal 5.5
Potassium Chloride 4.5
Chalk 2
#7 NG 26
Woodmeal 40
Barium Nitrate 32
Sodium Carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
Woodmeal 12
Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
Potassium Nitrate 32.5
Woodmeal 33.5
Ammonium Oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
Potassium Nitrate 33
Woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
Sodium Nitrate 62.9
Woodmeal 21.2
Sodium Carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
Sodium Nitrate 27
Woodmeal 10
Ammonium Oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
Potassium Nitrate 27
Woodmeal 10
Ammonium Oxalate 30
Guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
Woodmeal 10.3
Ammonium Oxalate 29
Guncotton .7
#15 NG 40
Sodium Nitrate 45
Woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
Starch 50
Guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
Sodium Nitrate 22.3
Woodmeal 40.5
Potassium Chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
Sodium Nitrate 32.6
Woodmeal 17
Ammonium Oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
Potassium Nitrate 27.5
Woodmeal 37
Ammonium Oxalate 8
Barium Nitrate 4
Calcium Carbonate .5
Remember to be careful with Nitroglycerin and with the resulting dynamite
compound! With 19 varieties, there's sure to be one for everyone.
Black Powder
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used
as blasting powder or gunpowder.
Material Required
=================
Potassium Nitrate, granulated, 3 cups
Wood Charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
Alcohol, 5 pints (ethanol or methanol)
Water, 3 cups
Heat Source
2 buckets, 2-gallon capacity each. At least one must be heat
resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)
Flat window screening, at least 1 square foot.
Large wooden stick
Cloth, at least 2 feet square.
The above ingredients will yield about 2 ounces of black powder.
Procedure
=========
1. Place alcohol in one of the buckets.
2. Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant
bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until
all ingredients are dissolved.
3. Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source
and stir until small bubbles begin to form.
CAUTION: Do not boil mixture. Be sure all of the mixture stays wet.
If any dries, on the side of the bucket, for example, it may ignite.
4. Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring
vigorously.
5. Let mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain the mixture through the cloth
to obtain black powder. Discard the liquid. Wrap the cloth around the
black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
6. Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder
on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through the screen.
NOTE: If granulated particles appear to stick together
and change shape, recombine entire batch and repeat steps 5 and 6.
7. Spread granulated powder on a flat, dry surface so that a layer about
1/2 inch thick is formed. Allow it to dry. Use a radiator or direct
sunlight. It should be dried as quickly as possible, preferably within
one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the powder.
Remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Your black powder is now
ready to use.
Cannister bomb
Take a CO2 cannister and cut the top almost off but leave a little of
the metal to form a hinge. Let out all the CO2 and insert an M-80.
Insert a fuse through the hole in the top, and close the top by using
epoxy glue. Light the fuse to ignite.
The Hindenburg Bomb
Needed
======
1 balloon
1 bottle
1 bottle liquid plumber
1 piece aluminum foil
1 length fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with liquid plumber and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting hydrogen gas. Be careful, it is
highly flammable! Tie the balloon closed, and tie the fuse to the knot
on the balloon. Light the fuse, and let the balloon rise. Stay away
from it, because when the fuse burns up to the balloon, the show begins.
Fun with floppy disks!
To get even with an obnoxious person who sent you a virus, you can send
him/her a REAL damaging disk. Take the disk out of its jacket so that
you have the actual disk surface. Take a small dish and pour acetone
(nail polish remover) into it. Now get LOTS of matchheads and put them
in it. Pulverise the mixure until you have a somewhat gooey consistency.
Brush this on the disk in a thin layer, but leave a clean area that
will show through the hole in the disk jacket.
When your enemy tries to read THIS disk, the fireworks begin.
Household equivalents.
The following are household names for some chemicals commonly used in
constructing pyrotechnic substances and devices.
Name Equivalent
------------ --------------
Acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate epsom salts
napthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate photographers' hypo
sulfuric acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Ethylene Glycol
This is otherwise known as automotive antifreeze. It is a colorless,
syrupy liquid with a sweetish taste. It mixes well with both water and
alcohol. It is also a lethal chemical. There is disagreement on the
lethal dose. It is given as anything from half an ounce to four ounces.
However, most people will drink four ounces in a soft drink without
becoming suspicious. Interestingly, a person dying from ethylene glycol
poisoning simply appears to be drunk.
Mace substitute
If you happen to run out of mace one afternoon, this simple substitue
will work nicely.
Mix either 6 parts alchol, 1 part iodine, 1 part salt
OR 3 parts alcohol and 1 part iodized salt (Mortons, etc.)
It's not actual mace, but it does a good job on the eyes.
Put it in a small spray bottle and aim carefully.
_____________________________________________________________________________
Improvising Black Powder
------------------------
Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner.
It may be used as blasting or gun powder.
Material required:
-----------------
potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups
wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups
sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup
alcohol, 5 pints (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)
Water, 3 cups
heat source
2 buckets -- each 2 gallon capacity, at least one of which is
heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)
Flat window screening, at least 1 ft. Square large wooden
stick cloth, at least 2 ft. Square
note: the above amounts will yield 2 pounds of black powder.
However, only the ratios of the amounts of the
ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much
black powder, double all quantities used.
Procedure:
---------
1) place alcohol in one of the buckets
2) place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat
resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with
wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.
3) Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on
heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.
Caution: do not boil mixture. Be sure all mixture stays
wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it may
ignite.
4) Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol
while stirring vigorously
5) let alcohol stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through
cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth
around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.
6) Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of
damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid
through screen
note: if granulated particles appear to stick together and
change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and
repeat steps 5 & 6.
7) Spread granulated powder on flat dry surface so that layer
about 1/2 inch is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator ,
or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as
possible, preferably in one hour. The longer the drying
period, the less effective the black powder.
Caution: remove from heat as soon as granules are dry. Black
powder is now ready for use.
The Best of The Station
-----------------------
<-> Mace Substitute <->
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1/2 PARTS: Iodine
1/2 PARTS: Salt
Or:
3 PARTS: Alcohol
1 PARTS: Iodized Salt (Mortons)
It's not actual mace, but it does a
damn good job on the eyes...
<-> CO2 Canister Bomb <->
Take a Co2 canister and cut the top almost off but leave a
little to form a hinge. Let out the Co2 and insert a M80 into
it. Insert fuse through hole in top. Close the top by
welding or epoxy glue. When ready to ignite just light...
<-> Unstable Explosives <->
Mix solid Nitric Iodine with household ammonia. Wait
overnight and then pour off the liquid. You will be left with
a muddy substance. Let this dry till it hardens. Now throw
it at something!!!!
<-> Jug Bomb <->
Take a glass jug, and put 3 to 4 drops of gasoline into it.
Then put the cap on, and swish the gas around so the inner
surface of the jug is coated. Then add a few drops of
potassium permanganate solution into it and cap it. To blow
it up, either throw it at something, or roll it at something.
<-> Hindenberg Bomb <->
Needed:
1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum Foil
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little
piece of aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck
of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas.
This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Now
light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!
How to Make Bugs Breakdance
---------------------------
Hello, name's Daredevil. I am about to present you with
step by step instructions on how to make insects and such to
dance around like Michael Jackson. Havoc Chaos and I figured
this out while over at Havoc's home. Bugs can breakdance,
despite popular belief!
The first thing you will need is a neat pair of tweezers.
Their use will become obvious later in this SoftDoc. While
tweezers work best, I also recommend scissors and (oops.)
exacto-knives for those without shaky hands.
The next thing you will need is a bug. I highly recommend
flies, as they are abundant, and nobody really misses them.
Some people get angry if you use insects like spiders or
crickets. (Don't ask me, darn those enviromentalists.)
Flies can be found around window sills, fresh meat, or any
beer-guzzling father. They are pretty much easy to trap, but
the catch is that you'll need them alive. Fly swatters and
newspapers should not be used to catch these little buggers.
Horse flies also are not recommended, as they are supposed to
bite. (Hey, i've never been bitten. If you have, send me E-
Mail, okay? -DD) The common house fly works best.
Now, capturing these pests alive is the thing. Get a glass
or something, and trap it. Wait a while, and watch it fly
feebly around the jar looking for a way out. If you're
smarter than you look, it won't get out. It's real fun to
shake the jar and stun the sucker.
Take the fly from the jar with a 'kleenex' or something of
the like, and hold it so it's pitiful wings are accessible to
you. Now, with the tweezers I mentioned above, pull his wings
off.
(AUTHORS NOTE: Some lesser minds have actually called me
'sadistic' because of the fact that I pull flies wings off.
Well, you don't hear them complaining, do you? -DD)
Anyways, now that his wings are gone, all he can do is hop
and run around like a complete fool. Now, here's the fun
part. (What do you mean, pulling the wings off was the fun
part!?)
The first trick is to teach it the backspin. Put your new-
found pet in the (a) corner in your room. The fly will then
attempt to climb the wall. But, the poor, pitiful creature
won't make it. He will fall to the dusty floor onto his
back. This is where you come in. If he isn't spinning
around, then give him a little help. They will be back-
spinning in no time at all!
You'll notice that flies without wings jump around a lot.
This really looks like a neat act, and they can really jump
far. (Coming next: Fly Olympics? Nahhh...)
To make a fly moonwalk, watch it as it crawls around on
your dresser top. Give it a fling with your index finger, and
it will almost "fly" across the space it's in! Not only does
it go backwards, but upside down, rightside up, right, left,
north, south, etc...
My favorite trick is to get a paper plate (You know, the
cheap ones your mother buys from K-Mart...) and put your
friend on top of the plate. Bounce him up and down on the
plate, and watch him attempt to walk afterwards. It's really
neat.
Well, this is just about all of the neat little tricks you
can do with bugs. You can take up boring Sunday afternoons
with this pasttime, and maybe we'll see a breakdancing bugs
contest one of these days. Maybe not.
(ANOTHER AUTHOR'S NOTE: Lord Omega of Shadow Keep BBS
suggests to spray them with 'Windex' and other household
items. They really get weird, according to him.)
I just also wanted to point out that Havoc the Chaos's
Stepmother warned us that pulling wings off of flies was
beginning signs of insanity. We are not in ANY way
responsible for people's sanity, after they take up this
sport. It was rumored that Charles Manson liked to play with
flies...
Weird Drugs
-----------
Bananas:
1. Obtain 15 pounds of ripe yellow bananas
2. Peel all and eat the fruit. Save the peelings
3. Scrape all the insides of the peels with a sharp knife.
4. Put all the scraped material in a large pot and add water.
5. Boil 3 or 4 hours until it has attained a solid paste
considtency.
6. Spread paste onto cookie sheets and dry in often for about
20 minutes. This will result in fine black powder. Usually
one will feel the effects after smoking three to four
cigarettes.
Cough syrup:
mix robitussion a-c with an equal amount of ginger ale and
drink. The effect are sedation and euphoria. Never
underestimate the effects of any drug! You can od on cough
syrup!
Toads:
1. Collect five to ten toads, frogs will not work. The best
kind are tree toads.
2. Kill them as painlessly as possible, and skin immediately.
3. Allow the skins to dry in a refrigerator for four to five
days, or until the skins are brittle.
4. Now crush the skins into powder and smoke. Due to its bad
taste you can mix it with a more fragrant smoking medium.
Nutmeg:
1. Take several whole nutmegs and grind them up in an old
grinder.
2. After the nutmegs are ground. Place in a mortar and
pulverize with a pestle.
3. The usual dosage is about 10 or 15 g rams. A larger dose
may produce excessive thirst, anxiety, and rapid hart
beat, but hallucinations are rare.
Peanuts:
1. Take 1 pound of raw peanuts (not roasted)
2. Shell them, saving the skins and discarding the shells.
3. Eat the nuts.
4. Grind up the skins and smoke them.
Demolition Article #2
--------------------
I have decided to skip the article on mercury fluminate
for a while and get right into the dynamite article.
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a
stabilizing agent to make it much safer to use. For the sake
of saving time, I will abbreviate nitroglycerin with a plain
NG. The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these
carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These
percentages are in weight ratio, not volume.
no. ingredients amount
---------------------------------------
#1 NG 32
sodium nitrate 28
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotten 1
#2 NG 24
potassium nitrate 9
sodium nitate 56
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 2
#3 NG 35.5
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6
guncotton 2.5
vaseline 5.5
powdered charcoal 6
#4 NG 25
potassium nitrate 26
woodmeal 34
barium nitrate 5
starch 10
#5 NG 57
potassium nitrate 19
woodmeal 9
ammonium oxalate 12
guncotton 3
#6 NG 18
sodium nitrate 70
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5
chalk 2
#7 NG 26
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32
sodium carbonate 2
#8 NG 44
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44
#9 NG 24
potassium nitrate 32.5
woodmeal 33.5
ammonium oxalate 10
#10 NG 26
potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 41
#11 NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
woodmeal 21.2
sodium carbonate .9
#12 NG 35
sodium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 1
#13 NG 32
potassium nitrate 27
woodmeal 10
ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
#14 NG 33
woodmeal 10.3
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
#15 NG 40
sodium nitrate 45
woodmeal 15
#16 NG 47
starch 50
guncotton 3
#17 NG 30
sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
potassium chloride 7.2
#18 NG 50
sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
ammonium oxalate .4
#19 NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
woodmeal 37
ammonium oxalate 8
barium nitrate 4
calcium carbonate .5
Household equivalents for chemicals
It has come to my attention that m any of these
chemicals are sold under brand names, or have household
equivalents. here is a list that might help you out.
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
ethylene dichloride Dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magnesium silicate talc
magnesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tartar
potassium chromium sulf. chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium chloride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glauber's salt
sodium thiosulfate photographer's hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc chloride tinner's fluid
Keep this list handy at all times. If you can't seem to
get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If you
still can't, you can always buy sm all amounts from your
school, or maybe from various chemical companies. When you
do that, be sure to say as little as possible, if during the
school year, and they ask.
Harmless Terror
---------------
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on
their victims but only terror.
These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1) The flour bomb.
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking
flour in the center. Then wrap it up and put on a rubber
band to keep it together. When thrown it will fly well but
when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or
causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in
terror since as far as they are concerned, some strange
white powder is all over them. This is a cheap method of
terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and
a bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun
watching people flee in panic.
2) Smoke bomb projectile.
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs
and a wrist rocket or any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke
bombs and watch the terror since they think it will blow
up!
3) Rotten eggs (good ones)
take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small
hole in the top of each one. Then let them sit in a warm
place for about a week. Then you've got a bunch of rotten
eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4) Glow in the dark terror.
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour
the stuff on whatever you want to throw and when it gets
on the victim, they think it's some deadly chemical or a
radioactive substance so they run in total panic. This
works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy,
glowing substance gets all over the victim.
5) Fizzling panic.
Take a baggie of a water-baking soda solution and seal it.
(Make sure there is no air in it since the solution will
form a gas and you don't want it to pop on you.) Then put
it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar and
seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and
cause a violently bubbling substance to go all over the
victim.
How to Have Fun at K-Mart
-------------------------
Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts
in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper
to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores.
Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior
Citizens, and the poor people in our city. Personally, I
wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did.
You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear
friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as
rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that
matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts.
As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by
Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair stricken
people selling American Flags. After laughing at these
people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins...
First, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the
blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses
the attendants... Fun to do...
The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store
where they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day
they find Apple Computers being sold there. Instead, lesser
computers like the laughable Vic-20 can be found there...
Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking... Then, once in
Basic, type...
]10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to
that effect.)
]20 GOTO 10 and walk away.
Also, set the sample radios in the store to a santanic rock
station, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two
minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume
up all the way, and walk away. After about two minutes, you
will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or
off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different
stations, and walk away.
One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the
intercom system of the store. Easier typed then done.
First, check out the garden department. You say there's no
attendant there? Good. Sneak carefully over to the phone
behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the
number corresponding to the item that says 'PAGE'... And
talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the
bowels of K-Mart.
I would suggest announcing something on the lines
of:"Anarchy"
Demolition Article #1
---------------------
Like all chemists I must advise you all to take the
greatest care and caution when you are doing this. Even if
you have made this stuff before.
This first article will give you information on making
nitroglyerin, the basic ingredient in a lot of explosives
such as straight dynamites, and geletin dynamites.
---------------------------------------
Making nitroglycerin
---------------------------------------
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker to the 13 ml. Level with
fuming red nitric acid, of 98% pure concentration.
2. Place the beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool
below room temp.
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount
of fuming sulferic acid (99% h2so4). In other words,
add to the now-cool fuming nitric acid 39 ml. Of
fuming sulferic acid. When mixing any acids, always
do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower their temp. By adding
more ice to the bath, about 10-15 degrees centigrade.
(Use a mercury-operated thermometer)
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired
temperature, it is ready for the glycerin. The
glycerin must be added in small amounts using a
medicine dropper. (Read this step about 10 times!)
Glycerin is added slowly and carefully (i mean
careful!) Until the entire surface of the acid it
covered with it.
6. This is a dangerous point since the nitration will
take place as soon as the glycerin is added. The
nitration will produce heat, so the solution must be
kept below 30 degrees centigrade! If the solution
should go above 30 degrees, immediately dump the
solution into the ice bath! This will insure that it
does not go off in your face!
7. For the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture
should be gently stirred. In a normal reaction the
nitroglycerin will form as a layer on top of the acid
solution, while the sulferic acid will absorb the
excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place, and the
nitroglycerin has formed on the top of the solution,
the entire beaker should be transferred slowly and
carefully to another beaker of water. When this is
done the nitroglycerin will settle at the bottom
so the other acids can be drained away.
9. After removing as much acid as possible without
disturbing the nitroglycerin, remove the
nitroglycerin with an eyedropper and place it in a
bicarbonate of soda (sodium bicarbonate in case
you didn't know) solution. The sodium is an alkalai
and will neutralize much of the acid remaining. This
process should be repeated as much as necessary using
blue litmus paper to check for the presence of acid.
The remaining acid only makes the nitroglycerin more
unstable than it already is.
10. Finally! The final step is to remove the
nitroglycerin from the bicarbonate. His is done
with and eye- dropper slowly and carefully. The
usual test to see if nitration has been successful
is to place one drop of the nitroglycerin on metal
and ignite it. If it is true nitroglycerin it will
burn with a clear blue flame.
** Caution **
nitro is very sensitive to decomposition, heating dropping,
or jarring, and may explode if left undisturbed and cool.
Free Postage!!
---------------
The increasing cost of postage to mail letters and
packages is bringing down our standard of living. To remedy
this deplorable situation, some counter control measures can
be applied.
For example, if the stamps on a letter are coated with
Elmer's Glue by the sender, the cancellation mark will not
destroy the stamp: the Elmer/s drives to form an almost
invisible coating that protects the stamps from the
cancellation ink. Later, the receiver of the letter can
remove the cancellation mark with water and reuse the
stamps. Furthermore, ecological saving will also result from
recycling the stamps. Help save a tree.
The glue is most efficently applied with a brush with
stiff, short bristles. Just dip the brush directly into the
glue and spread it on evenly, covering the entire surface of
the stamp. It will dry in about 15 minutes.
For mailing packages, just follow the same procedure as
outlined above; however, the package should be weighed and
checked to make sure that it has the correct amount of
postage on it before it is taken to the Post Office.
Removing the cancellation and the glue from the stamps
can be easily accomplished by soaking the stamps in warm
water until they float free from the paper. The stamps can
then be put onto a paper towel to dry. Processing stamps in
large batches saves time too. Also, it may be helpful to
write the word 'Elmer' at the top of the letter (not on the
envelope) to cue the receiving party in that the stamps have
been protected with the glue.
We all know that mailing packages can be expensive. And
we also know that the handicapped are sometimes discriminated
against in jobs. The Government, being the generous people
they are, have given the blind free postal service.
Simply address you envelope as usual, and make one
modification. In the corner where the stamp would go, write
in (or stamp) the words 'FREE MATTER FOR THE BLIND". Then
drop you package or letter in one of the blue federal
mailboxes. DO NOT TAKE THE LETTER TO THE POST OFFICE, OR
LEAVE IT IN YOUR MAILBOX.
Sounds very nice of the government to do this, right?
Well, they aren't that nice. The parcel is sent library
rate, that is below third class. It may take four to five
days to send a letter to just the next town.
This too is quite simple, but less effective. Put the
address that you are sending the letter to as the return
address. If you were sending a $20 donation to the pirate's
Chest, you would put our address (po box 644, lincoln ma.
01773) as the return address.
Then you would have to be careless and forget to put the
stamp on the envelope. A nice touch is to put a bullshit
address in the center of the envelope.
Again, you MUST drop the letter in a FEDERAL mailbox.
If the post office doesn't send the letter to the return
address for having no stamp, they will send it back for the
reason of "No such address".
Example--
Pirates Chest
P.O. Box 644
Lincol, Ma.
01773
Tom Bullshit
20 Fake Road
What Ever, XX
99851
One last thing you might try doing is soaking a
cancelled stamp off of an envelope, and gluing it onto one
you are sending. Then burn the stamp, leaving a little bit
to show that there was one there.
Electronic Terrorism
--------------------
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you.
Being of a rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely
choose to avoid a (direct) confrontation. But as he laughs
in your face, you smile inwardly---your revenge is already
planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house.
Once you have chosen your target site, lay low for a
week or more, letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit (details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a
Monday morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00
am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly
hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not
write it by hand! An example of an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the
next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if
written by a homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target
site. Try to position yourself in such a way that
you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks!
Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist
kit #1:
the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the
relay's coil. This circuit should also include a
pair of contacts that when separated cut off this
circuit. These contacts should be held together by
trapping them between the locker, mailbox, or car
door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall
apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing
the relay to fall to the closed position thus
closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is
confusing take a look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative
terminal of another, until all four are connected
except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only
combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage
is necessary to activate the solar igniter quickly
and effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one
end of it to the relay's single pole and the other
end to one prong of the solar igniter. Then wire
the other prong of the solar igniter back to the
open position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his
locker, mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the
solar igniter into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or
m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I --- (9 VOLT)
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITER)
More Fun Stuff for Terrorists
------------
Carbide Bomb
------------
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution....
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used
in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware
store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel)
and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on
tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce
acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from
internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you
will get a nice fireball!
-------------------------
Portable Grenade Launcher
-------------------------
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule
from an aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder
(I use grade FFFF, it burns easy) and then glue a shotshell
primer into the hole left where the ferrule went. Next, glue
a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one
is nearby.... Little shreds of aluminium go all over the
place!!
--------------------------
Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
--------------------------
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition
wire and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four
or five inches of the tail pipe by drilling a hole that the
plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is regular
insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark
plug. The other side of the switch is attached to the
positive terminal on the battery. With the car running,
simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be
careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these
flames go 20 feet!!!
The Book Of The Unlawfuls
-------------------------
-=] Section I [=-
-=] Bombs [=-
--- ----- ---
House Hold equivalents
----- ---- -----------
Name Equivalent
---- ----------
acetic acid vinegar
aluminum oxide alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate alum
aluminum sulfate alum
ammonium hydroxide ammonia
carbon carbonate chalk
carbon tetrachloride cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride bleaching powder
calcium oxide lime
calcium sulfate plaster of paris
carbonic acid seltzer
ethylene dichloride dutch fluid
ferric oxide iron rust
glucose corn syrup
graphite pencil lead
hydrochloric acid muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide peroxide
lead acetate sugar of lead
lead tetrooxide red lead
magesium silicate talc
magesium sulfate Epsom salts
naphthalene mothballs
phenol carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate chrome alum
potassium nitrate saltpeter
sodium dioxide sand
sodium bicarbonate baking soda
sodium borate borax
sodium carbonate washing soda
sodium choride salt
sodium hydroxide lye
sodium silicate water glass
sodium sulfate glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate photographers hypo
sulferic acid battery acid
sucrose cane sugar
zinc choride tinner's fluid
------------ --------------
-=] Smoke Bomb [=-
--- ----- ---- ---
Mix:
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate
Heat:
over low flame till melts stir well, then pour into
container. Before it solidifies, put a few matches in for
fuses.
*One pound of this stuff will fill a block nicely with a
thick cloud of white smoke*
-=] Generic bomb [=-
--- ------- ---- ---
1) Acquire a glass container
2) Put in a few drops of gasoline
3) Cap the top
4) Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces
and then evaporates
5) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (<-Get this
stuff from a snake bite kit)
6) The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
*AFTER THROWING THIS THING RUN LIKE HELL THIS THING PACKS
ABOUT 1/2 STICK OF DYNAMITE*
-=] Section II [=-
-=] Hacking [=-
--- ------- ---
-=] Conference calls [=-
--- ---------- ----- ---
*I recommend that you do this local*
To make a conference call with as many people you want, just
call the operator ("0") and say "Hello, I'd like to make a
conference call." Then give the (first) Names (not pirate
names, ether) and the phone #'s of the people you want to
call And she'll do it. (hint: make sure that the people you
are calling are expecting it. because its damn annoying to be
talking to 3 people and having the third be busy for the
whole time
-=] Charge-a-call phones [=-
--- ------------- ------ ---
On a charge-a-call phone (there blue but don't have any coin
slots) take a hex wrench (with a hole in the middle) and
remove the screw in the middle for an extension!
-=] Free calls [=-
--- ---- ----- ---
From a pay phone, (the kind that gives you a dial tone AFTER
you put in the dime) and drop in your dime. Then dial the #,
then put another dime in! It'll come back out when you
finish your call.
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER
ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVES.
IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS
THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LARGER
AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE
EXPERIMENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH
WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR
EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE
CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS INFOR- MATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE
KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO ARE INTERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY
HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.
=======================================
I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES.
A. GUNPOWDER:
75% POTASSIUM NITRATE
15% CHARCOAL
10% SULFUR
THE CHEMICALS SHOULD BE GROUND IN TO A FINE POWDER (SEPERATELY!) WITH A MORTER
& PESTLE. IF GUNPOWDER IS IGNITED IN THE OPEN, IT BURNS FIERCELY, BUT IF IN A
CLOSED SPACE IT BUILDS UP PRESSURE FROM THE RELEASED GASES AND CAN EXPLODE THE
CONTAINER. GUNPOWDER WORKS LIKE THIS: THE POTASSIUM NITRATE OXIDIZES THE
CHARCOAL AND SULFUR, WHICH THEN BURNS FIERCELY. CARBON DIOXIDE AND SULFUR
DIOXIDE ARE THE GASES RELEASED.
B. AMMONAL:
AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH ALUMINUM
POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR
AMMONAL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.
C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR (SUCROSE)
BURNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1 DROP
OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE
ACID IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE,
WHICH EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL.
2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY WELL
FOR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE'
(TM). HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM
NITRATE + AMMONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON
FILINGS + CHARCOAL + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM
NITRATE, PURPLE= IODINE CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM
CHLORIDE, ETC...).
3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT.
MIXTURE: AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A
DROP OR TWO OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH
REACTS WITH THE ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE
IODINE (GIVING OFF PURPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN
MIXED WITH IODINE VAPOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING.
AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS
AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM
ZINC DUST : 8 GRAMS
IODINE CRYSTALS : 1 GRAM
4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-COLORED
FLAME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY
GROUND.
5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE GAS USED
IN BLOW TORCHES...)
II. THERMITE REACTION.
THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN IRON AND
TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS THAT I
TALKED ABOUT TO START IT!
STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER
(325 MESH OR FINER)
PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO START
THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE
STARTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1
PART ALUMINUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR. WHEN YOU
FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G! ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE
THERMITE REACTION. THE ALTERNATIVE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE.
AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE, 15G A LUMINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM
PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE.
III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH
EXPLOSIVES.
A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE
TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE MIGHT
ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY. THIS IS
SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE
PURCHASED. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT
FULMINIC ACID. YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART
MERCURY. THIS IS THEORETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY
THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMALL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.
B. NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE IS A VERY POWERFUL AND VERY SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE .
NEVER STORE IT AND BE CARFUL WHEN YOU 'RE AROUND IT- SOUND, AIR MOVEMENTS, AND
OTHER TINY THINGS COULD SET IT OFF.
MATERIALS-
2-3G IODINE
15ML CONC. AMMONIA
8 SHEETS FILTER PAPER
50ML BEAKER
FEATHER MOUNTED ON A TWO METER POLE
EAR PLUGS
TAPE
SPATULA
STIRRING ROD
ADD 2-3G IODINE TO 15ML AMMONIA IN THE 50ML BEAKER. STIR, LET STAND FOR 5
MINUTES. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! RETAIN THE SOLID, DECANT THE
LIQUID (POUR OFF THE LIQUID BUT KEEP THE BROWN SOLID...). SCAPE THE BROWN
RESIDUE OF NITROGEN TRIIODIDE ONTO A STACK OF FOUR SHEETS OF FILTER PAPER.
DIVIDE SOLID INTO FOUR PARTS, PUTTING EACH ON A SEPERATE SHEET OF DRY FILTER
PAPER. TAPE IN POSITION, LEAVE TO DRY UNDISTURBED FOR AT LEAST 30 MINUTES
(PREFERRABLY LONGER). TO DETONATE, TOUCH WITH FEATHER. (WE AR EAR PLUGS WHEN
DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)
C. CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)
COMMONLY KNOWN AS SMOKELESS POWDER, NITROCELLULOSE IS EXACTLY THAT- IT DOES NOT
GIVE OFF SMOKE WHEN IT BURNS.
MATERIALS-
70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID
5G ABSORBENT COTTON
250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE
250ML BEAKER
ICE BATH
TONGS
PAPER TOWELS
PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC ACID.
DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID
SOLUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML
WATER. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM
BICARBONATE. IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS.
SQUEEZE DRY AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT.
D. NITROGLYCERINE
NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS USED IN
MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS. I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND
AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE USED, SO I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.
MATERIALS-
70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID
10 ML GLYCERINE
ICE BATH
150ML BEAKER
PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD.
SLOWLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO
MAINTAIN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD
ABOUT 10 ML GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOK S FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**.
WHEN NITROGLYCERINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT
STAYS CLEAR AND ALL WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET
IT SIT FOR A FEW HOURS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY
MIXED WITH NITRIC AND SULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE
NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE CAN FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING
GASES. THIS MEANS THAT IF YOU HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL
PRODUCE SOME 100,000 ML'S OF GASES. TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE
NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO SOMETHING LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS
EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).
IV. OTHER STUFF
A. PEROXYACETONE
PEROXYACETONE IS EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BE SHOCK
SENSITIVE.
MATERIALS-
4ML ACETONE
4ML 30% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
4 DROPS CONC. HYDROCHLORIC ACID
150MM TEST TUBE
ADD 4ML ACETONE AND 4ML HYDROGEN PEROXIDE TO THE TEST TUBE. THEN ADD 4 DROPS
CONCENTRATED HYDROCHLORIC ACID. IN 10-20 MINUTES A WHITE SOLID SHOULD BEGIN TO
APPEAR. IF NO CHANGE IS OBSERVED, WARM THE TEST TUBE IN A WATER BATH AT 40
CELSIUS. ALLOW THE REACTION TO CONTINUE FOR TWO HOURS. SWIRL THE SLURRY AND
FILTER IT. LEAVE OUT ON FILTER PAPER TO DRY FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS. TO
IGNITE, LIGHT A CANDLE TIED TO A METER STICK AND LIGHT IT (WHILE STAYING AT
LEAST A METER AWAY).
B. SMOKE SMOKE SMOKE...
THE FOLLOWING REACTION SHOULD PRODUCE A FAIR AMOUNT OF SMOKE. SINCE THIS
REACTION IS NOT ALL THAT DANGEROUS YOU CAN USE LARGER AMOUNTS IF NECESSARY FOR
LARGER AMOUNTS OF SMOKE.
6G ZINC POWDER
1G SULFUR POWDER
INSERT A RED HOT WIRE INTO THE PILE,
STEP BACK. A LOT OF SMOKE SHOULD BE
CREATED.
THERE ARE MANY OTHER EXPERIMENTS I COULD HAVE INCLUDED, BUT I WILL SAVE THEM
FOR THE NEXT CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE. UPCOMING ARTICLES WILL INCLUDE
GLOW-IN-THE-DARK REACTIONS, 'PARTY' REACTIONS, THINGS YOU CAN DO WITH HOUSEHOLD
CHEMICALS, AND MORE... I WOULD LIKE TO GIVE CREDIT TO A BOOK BY SHAKASHARI
ENTITLED "CHEMICAL DEMONSTRATIONS" FOR A FEW OF THE PRECISE AMOUNTS OF
CHEMICALS IN SOME EXPERIMENTS. THIS IS IT FOR CHEMIST'S CORNER #1... LOOK FOR
CHEMIST'S CORNER #2: WHAT TO DO WITH HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS...
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
OFF THE WALL 443-3367
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the Progressive Underground
Although I haven't ||||||\\ ||| ||| |||||\\ Dissidents
heard from him, ||| )))||| ||| ||| \\\ 3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4
maybe this file's ||||||// ||| ||| ||| ))) Running: Citadel v2.17
author would =WANT= you ||| ||| ||| ||| /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles
to call... ||| \\|||// ||||||/ and the SysOp is Mr. Pez.
THE CHEMIST'S CORNER
ARTICLE #2: HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS
BY ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG
THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO SOME INTERESTING EXPERIMENTS
WITH COMMON HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS. SOME MAY OR MAY NOT WORK DEPENDING ON THE
CONCENTRATION OF CERTAIN CHEMICALS IN DIFFERENT AREAS AND BRANDS. I WOULD
SUGGEST THAT THE PERSON DOING THESE EXPERIMENTS HAVE SOME KNOWLEDGE OF
CHEMISTRY, ESPECIALLY FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS EXPERIMENTS.
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE CAUSED BY PEOPLE USING THIS
INFORMATION. IT IS PROVIDED FOR USE BY PEOPLE KNOWLEDGABLE IN CHEMISTRY WHO RE
INTERESTED IN SUCH EXPERIMENTS AND CAN SAFELY HANDLE SUCH EXPERIMENTS.
=======================================
I. A LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION
VINEGAR: 3-5% ACETIC ACID
BAKING SODA: SODIUM BICARBONATE
DRAIN CLEANERS: SODIUM HYDROXIDE
SANI-FLUSH: 75% SODIUM BISULFATE
AMMONIA WATER: AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
CITRUS FRUIT: CITRIC ACID
TABLE SALT: SODIUM CHLORIDE
SUGAR: SUCROSE
MILK OF MAGNESIA- MAGNESIUM HYDROXIDE
TINCTURE OF IODINE- 47% ALCOHOL, 4% IODINE
RUBBING ALCOHOL- 70 OR 99% (DEPENDS ON BRAND) ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL (DO NOT DRINK)
EXP #1: YE OLD FIZZ EXPERIMENT
MIX VINEGAR WITH BAKING SODA. IT PRODUCES SODIUM ACETATE AND CARBONIC ACID.
CARBONIC ACID QUICKLY DECOMPOSES INTO CARBON DIOXIDE AND WATER, RESULTING IN
THE "FIZZ". THIS SIMPLE REACTION CAN BE CONTAINED IN A SMALL BOTTLE OR
SOMETHING, AND WHEN ENOUGH PRESSURE BUILDS UP IT WILL BREAK OPEN. I SINCERELY
DOUBT THAT IT WILL BLOW "ALL FOUR WALLS OFF THE HOUSE" AS SOME LOSER WROTE IN
HIS SAFEHOUSE ARTICLE. THE SAME BASIC THING CAN BE DONE WITH DRY ICE & WATER,
BAKING POWDER & WATER, CITRIC ACID & BAKING SODA, AND MANY OTHER COMBINATIONS.
EXP #2: A FRUITY BATTERY
IF YOU'RE EVER IN NEED OF A LITTLE POWER, GET YOUR HANDS ON THESE:
A CITRUS FRUIT (LEMON, ORANGE, ETC)
A SMALL ZINC STRIP
A SMALL COPPER STRIP
JUST STICK THE ZINC STRIP IN ONE END OF A LEMON AND A COPPER STRIP IN THE
OTHER. YOU NOW HAVE A 1.5 VOLT BATTERY! JUST ATTACH THE WIRES TO THE COPPER &
ZINC STRIPS...
EXP #3: GENERATING CHLORINE GAS
THIS IS SLIGHTLY MORE DANGEROUS THAN THE OTHER TWO EXPERIMENTS, SO YOU SHOULD
KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING BEFORE YOU TRY THIS...
EVER WONDER WHY AMMONIA BOTTLES ALWAYS SAY 'DO NOT MIX WITH CHLORINE BLEACH',
AND VISA-VERSA? THAT'S BECAUSE IF YOU MIX AMMONIA WATER WITH AJAX OR SOMETHING
LIKE IT, IT WILL GIVE OFF CHLORINE GAS. TO CAPTURE IT, GET A LARGE BOTTLE AND
PUT AJAX IN THE BOTTOM. THEN POUR SOME AMMONIA DOWN INTO THE BOTTLE. SINCE
THE CHLORINE IS HEAVIER THAN AIR, IT WILL STAY DOWN IN THERE UNLESS YOU USE
LARGE AMOUNTS OF EITHER AJAX OR AMMONIA (DON'T!). FOR SOMETHING FUN TO DO WITH
CHLORINE STAY TUNED....
EXP #4: CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
TAKE A SMALL CLOTH OR RAG AND SOAK IT IN TURPENTINE. QUICKLY DROP IT INTO THE
BOTTLE OF CHLORINE. IT SHOULD GIVE OFF A LOT OF BLACK SMOKE AND PROBABLY START
BURNING...
EXP #5: GENERATING HYDROGEN GAS
TO GENERATE HYDROGEN, ALL YOU NEED IS AN ACID AND A METAL THAT WILL REACT WITH
THAT ACID. TRY VINEGAR (ACETIC ACID) WITH ZINC, ALUMINUM, MAGNESIUM, ETC. YOU
CAN COLLECT HYDROGEN IN SOMETHING IF YOU NOTE THAT IT IS LIGHTER THAN AIR....
LIGHT A SMALL AMOUNT AND IT BURNS WITH A SMALL *POP*.
ANOTHER WAY OF CREATING HYDROGEN IS BY THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER. THIS
INVOLVES SEPERATING WATER (H2O) INTO HYDROGEN AND OXYGEN BY AN ELECTRIC
CURRENT. TO DO THIS, YOU NEED A 6-12 VOLT BATTERY, TWO TEST TUBES, A LARGE
BOWL, TWO CARBON ELECTRODES (TAKE THEM OUT OF AN UNWORKING 6-12 VOLT BATTERY),
AND TABLE SALT. DISSOLVE THE SALT IN A LARGE BOWL FULL OF WATER. SUBMERGE THE
TWO TEST TUBES IN THE WATER AND PUT THE ELECTRODES IN SIDE THEM, WITH THE MOUTH
OF THE TUBE AIMING DOWN. CONNECT THE BATTERY TO SOME WIRE GOING DOWN TO THE
ELECTRODES. THIS WILL WORK FOR A WHILE, BUT CHLORINE WILL BE GENERATED ALONG
WITH THE OXYGEN WHICH WILL UNDOUBTEDLY CORRODE YOUR COPPER WIRES LEADING TO THE
CARBON ELECTRODES... (THE TABLE SALT IS BROKEN UP INTO CHLORINE AND SODIUM
IONS, THE CHLORINE COMES OFF AS A GAS WITH OXYGEN WHILE SODIUM REACTS WITH THE
WATER TO FORM SODIUM HYDROXIDE....). THEREFORE, IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON
SOME SULFURIC ACID, USE IT INSTEAD. IT WILL NOT AFFECT THE REACTION OTHER THAN
MAKING THE WATER CONDUCT ELECTRICITY.
EXP #6: HYRDOGEN + CHLORINE
TAKE THE TEST TUBE OF HYDROGEN AND COVER THE MMUTH WITH YOUR THUMB. KEEP IT
INVERTED, AND BRING IT NEAR THE BOTTLE OF CHLORINE (NOT ONE THAT HAS REACTED
WITH TURPENTINE). SAY "GOODBYE TEST TUBE", AND DROP IT INTO THE BOTTLE. THE
HYDROGEN AND CHLORINE SHOULD REACT AND POSSIBLY EXPLODE (DEPENDING ON PURITY
AND A MOUNT OF EACH GAS). AN INTERESTING THING ABOUT THIS IS THEY WILL NOT
REACT IF IT IS DARK AND NO HEAT OR OTHER ENERGY IS AROUND. WHEN A LIGHT IS
TURNED ON, ENOUGH ENERGY IS PRESENT TO CAUSE THEM TO REACT...
EXP #7: PREPARATION OF OXYGEN
GET SOME HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (FROM A DRUG STORE) AND MANGANESE DIOXIDE (FROM A
BATTERY- IT'S A BLACK POWDER). MIX THE TWO IN A BOTTLE, AND THEY GIVE OFF
OXYGEN. IF THE BOTTLE IS STOPPERED, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP AND SHOOT IT OFF.
TRY LIGHTING A WOOD SPLINT AND STICKING IT (WHEN ONLY GLOWING) INTO THE BOTTLE.
THE OXYGEN WILL MAKE IT BURST INTO FLAME. EXPERIMENT WITH IT. THE OXYGEN WILL
ALLOW THINGS TO BURN BETTER...
EXP #8: ALCOHOL
BUY SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL IN A DRUG STORE. USUALLY THIS IS EITHER 70% OR 99%
ALCOHOL AND BURNS JUST GREAT. YOU CAN SOAK A TOWEL IN WATER AND THEN IN
ACOHOL, LIGHT THE TOWEL, AND WHEN IT FINISHES BURNING THE ALCOHOL, THE FLAME
SHOULD GO OUT AND LEAVE THE TOWEL UNHARMED. NICE FOR "PARTY TRICKS", ETC.
EXP #9: IODINE?
TINCTURE OF IODINE CONTAINS MAINLY ALCOHOL AND A LITTLE IODINE. TO SEPERATE
THEM, PUT THE TINCTURE OF IODINE IN A METAL LID TO A BOTTLE AND HEAT IT OVER A
CANDLE. HAVE A STAND HOLDING ANOTHER METAL LID DIRECTLY OVER THE TINCTURE
(ABOUT 4-6 INCHES ABOVE IT) WITH ICE ON TOP OF IT. THE ALCOHOL SHOULD
EVAPORATE, AND THE IODINE SHOULD SUBLIME, BUT SHOULD REFORM IODINE CRYSTALS ON
THE COLD METAL LID DIRECTLY ABOVE. IF THIS WORKS (I HAVEN'T TRIED), YOU CAN
USE THE IODINE ALONG WITH HOUSEHOLD AMMONIA TO FORM NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
(DISCUSSED IN ARTICLE #1).
EXP #10: GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION!
WANT TO TRY YOUR OWN 'GRAIN-ELEVATOR EXPLOSION'? GET A CANDLE AND SOME
FLOUR... LIGHT THE CANDLE AND PUT SOME FLOUR IN YOUR HAND. TRY VARIOUS WAYS
OF GETTING THE FLOUR TO LEAVE YOUR HAND AND BECOME DUST RIGHT OVER THE CANDLE
FLAME. THE ENORMOUS SURFACE AREA ALLOWS ALL THE TINY DUST PARTICLES TO BURN,
WHICH THEY DO AT ABOUT THE SAME TIME, COMBINING TO FORM A FIREBALL EFFECT. IN
GRAIN ELEVATORS, MUCH THE SAME THING HAPPENS. IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON
SOME LYCOPODIUM POWDER, DO. THIS WILL WORK MUCH BETTER, CREATING HUGE
FIREBALLS THAT ARE UNEXPECTED.
THAT'S ENOUGH FOR NOW... MORE TO COME
IN LATER CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLES...
...ZAPHOD BEEBLEBROX/MPG!
OFF THE WALL 443-3367
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
the Progressive Underground
Although I haven't ||||||\\ ||| ||| |||||\\ Dissidents
heard from him, ||| )))||| ||| ||| \\\ 3 1 3 - 4 3 3 - 3 1 6 4
maybe this file's ||||||// ||| ||| ||| ))) Running: Citadel v2.17
author would =WANT= you ||| ||| ||| ||| /// About 20 Megs of TextFiles
to call... ||| \\|||// ||||||/ and the SysOp is Mr. Pez.
+-----------------------------------+
+ <20>ASIC <20>XPLOSIVES ][ BY <20>ILAMBER +
+ <20>ART ][ : <20>ITCHEN <20>HEMISTRY +
+-----------------------------------+
+ <20>HANX TO ALL <20> THANKED IN <20>ART <20>, +
+ <20>ND SPECIAL THANX TO <20>.<2E>. !!!!!! +
+-----------------------------------+
+ <20> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20>RIGINAL <20>ILE +
+-----------------------------------+
<EFBFBD>ART <20><>
-------
<EFBFBD>ITCHEN <20>HEMISTRY
-----------------
<20>LL THE EXPLOSIVES IN THIS FILE ARE FAIRLY SAFE TO MAKE, EASILY MADE, AND
THE MATERIALS ARE EASY TO GET. <20>HEY ARE NOT VERY POWERFUL, AND ARE EXCELLENT
FOR TERRORIZING YOUR NEIGHBOR.
<20> LOT OF THE EXPLOSIVES HEREAFTER USE ONLY TWO INGREDIENTS AND THEREFORE,
DO NOT RECQUIRE MUCH IN THE WAY OF DETONATORS... <20> HAVE SOME CASINGS WHICH
<EFBFBD> WILL DESCRIBE IN THE FOLLOWING:
<EFBFBD>IPE <20>ASING
-----------
<EFBFBD>HIS CASING CONSISTS OF TWO THINGS: <20> PIPE SEALED ON ONE END, A GLASS, SEALABLE
CONTAINER, AND ROCKS. <20>HE LIQUID IS USUALLY SEALED INSIDE THE JAR. <20>HE SOLID
IS USUALLY PLACED INSIDE THE PIPE. <20>T WORX LIKE THIS: <20>LACE THE LIQUID IN THE
CONTAINER AND SEAL IT TIGHTLY!!!! <20> GOOD IDEA WOULD BE TO COAT THE JOINING WITH
WAX, OR <20>ASELINE. <20>HEN PUT THE SOLID DOWN THE PIPE. <20>UT SOME ROCKS IN, AND
SLIDE THE JAR IN CAREFULLY... <20>LACE SOME MORE ROCKS IN AND SEAL THE TOP OF THE
PIPE AS BEST AS POSSIBLE...
<20> BABY JAR AND APPROPIATE PIPE WORK GREAT. <20>HEN READY TO DETONATE, HIT THE
PIPE AGAINST SOMETHING, THIS WILL BREAK THE JAR, AND LET THE STUFF COMBINE.
<20>HEN GET RID OF IT!!!!!!!!!!!
<EFBFBD>AR CASING
----------
<20>HIS CASING IS EASIER TO MAKE, ALL YOU NEED IS A FILM CONTAINER AND A JAR.
<EFBFBD>NE INGREDIENT IS PLACED IN THE PLASTIC FILM CONTAINER AND CAPPED. <20> NEEDLE IS
USED TO PUNCH SMALL HOLES IN THE CAP, ABOUT 1-2 HOLES WILL DO. <20>HEN PLACE
THE OTHER INGREDIENT IN THE JAR. <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>, & ONLY <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> YOU ARE READY TO DETONATE,
DROP THE FILM CONTAINER IN THE JAR, CLOSE IT, AND GET RID OF IT, <20><><EFBFBD>!!!
<EFBFBD> MAYNAISE JAR WORX PRETTY GOOD, ALTHOUGH GLASS CAUSES IMMENSE DAMAGE TO PEOPLE
IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY, HOWEVER, SO BE CAREFUL. 3 LITER PLASTIC COKE DEALS
ARE GOOD TOO!!
<EFBFBD>OKE <20>AN <20>ASING
---------------
<20>HIS IS A VARIATION OF THE JAR CASING, AND IS GENERALLY GREAT FOR THE
CLASSROOM. <20>ILL THE CAN WITH AN INGREDIENT, AFTER LETTING THE CAN DRY IN THE
SUN, THEN TAKE ABOUT TWO SMALL PAPER TOWELS AND WRAP THE SOLID INGREDIENT IN
THIS... <20>HEN READY TO DETONATE FORCE THE PAPER TOWEL WITH THE SOLID INSIDE IT,
DOWN THE LITTLE HOLE... DROP IT IN A TRASHCAN AND MOVE AWAY. <20>SE SMALL AM'TS
IN ORDER TO SPARE YOURSELF SOME PROBLEMS....
<EFBFBD>IME <20>ELAYS:
------------
<20>HESE DELAYS ONLY WORK WITH THE 2ND AND 3RD VARIATIONS: <20>OAT THE SOLID IN
<EFBFBD>ASELINE, OR IN THE CASE OF <20>DEA#2, COAT THE TOP OF THE INGREDIENT IN THE FILM
CONTAINER WITH A LIQUID SOAP. <20>HIS SLOWS DOWN THE REACTION.
<EFBFBD> (<28>OT 5-6) <20>ULE ON <20>PLOSIVES:
------------------------------
<20>REAT ALL EXPLOSIVES LIKE A PRESSURE SENSITIVE <20>-<2D>OMB. <20>HERE WILL BE NO
TROUBLE IF YOU DO.
<EFBFBD>ORMULA #1
----------
<20>RYSTAL <20>RANO AND GASOLINE REACT VIOLENTLY... <20> THINK THAT THIS WOULD BE
A GOOD ONE FOR IDEA #1 AND IDEA #2. <20>N IDEA #1 PLACE THE GASOLINE IN THE
CONTAINER, AND PLACE THE CRYSTAL <20>RANO IN THE PIPE... <20>N IDEA #2 PLACE THE
<EFBFBD>RANO IN THE 36 MM FILM CONTAINER. AND TH GAS IN THE JAR. <20> WOULD PUT A
DELAY ON THIS ONE.
<EFBFBD>ORMULA #2
----------
<20>HIS ONE IS PROBABLY ONLY GOOD FOR IDEA#1, AND IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. <20>N
THIS CASE, YOU NEED TO GET <20>ALCIUM <20>ARBIDE AT A <20>ARDWARE STORE (<28>ALCIUM <20>.
LAMPS USE IT) <20>LACE THE <20>.<2E>. IN THE PIPE. <20>LACE THE WATER IN THE JAR, AND
WRAP A WRAG SOAKED IN GASOLINE AROUND IT. <20>HEN READY TO USE, SIMPLY LIGHT THE
RAG, AND BREAK THE JAR... <20><><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD> <20><> <20><> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>!!! <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> THAN THE OTHERS,
AS THE EXPANDING GAS BLOWS THE PIPE APART, THEN GAS IS LIT, AND IT EXPLODES.
<EFBFBD>ORMULA #3
----------
<20>HIS IS AN OLDY, BUT GOODY, AND THE MATERIALS ARE BEYOND EASY TO GET. <20>HE
MATERIALS ARE: <20>AKING <20>ODA AND <20>INEGAR. <20>HIS ONE WORKS FOR ALL THREE IDEAS,
AND IS ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR THREE, SINCE IT WON'T EXPLODE, JUST FOAM UP
BECAUSE OF THE HOLE IN THE TOP. <20>T NEVER HURTS TO BE SAFE, SO PLAY WITH THE
AM'TS... <20>N IDEA#1 PLACE THE VINEGAR IN THE JAR THE SAME IN #2. <20>N #3, PLACE
THE VINEGAR IN THE CAN.
<EFBFBD>ORMULA #4
----------
<20>HIS ONE USES <20>RANULATED POOL <20>HLORINE AND <20>INE<4E>OL. <20>F IT IS NOT IN A CLOSED
CONTAINER, A GOUT OF FLAME WILL FIRE UP. <20>F IN A CONTAINER, AN EXPLOSION
RESULTS BECAUSE OF PRESSURE. <20>ERY MUCH LIKE <20>ORMULA #1. <20>LAY WITH IT IN IDEA
#3. <20>LACE THE SOLID IN THE PAPER TOWELS AND USE SMALL AM'TS FIRST.
<EFBFBD>HERMITE:
---------
<20>HERMITE, IS A MIXTURE, OF 25% ALUMINUM FILINGS, 75% IRON OXIDE FILINGS.
<EFBFBD>HEN LIT, BY SOMETHING LIKE BLACK POWDER, (<28>.<2E>. <20>HERMITE CORE) IT BURNS
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>. <20>ECQUIRES A FAIRLY HIGH TEMPERATURE TO START.
<EFBFBD>APALM
------
<20>HE <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> FORMULA FOR <20>APALM IS GASOLINE AND STYROFOAM. <20>ET IT DISSOLVE, AND
SPOON OUT XS GASOLINE.
<EFBFBD>MOKE <20>IXTURE
-------------
<20>HIS IS MIXTURE THAT BURNS FIERCELY, WHEN FRESH AND LOW WHEN NOT, BUT IN ANY
CASE IT GIVES OFF A DENSE WHITE SMOKE. <20>T IS COMPOSED OF <20>OTASSIUM <20>ITRATE AND
<EFBFBD>UGAR IN A RATIO OF 6 PARTS P.N. TO 4 PARTS SUGAR. <20>IX THIS ALL TOGETHER, THEN
HEAT OVER A LOW FLAME. <20>T WILL SLOWLY FORM A THICK BROWN SYRUPY MIXTURE. <20>HEN
STILL IN A LIQUID FORM, POUR IT INTO A MOLD. <20>HEN STILL SYRUPY, IT BURNS WITH
A HOT FLAME ABOUT 1 FOOT HIGH.
<EFBFBD>MOKE <20>IXTURE #2
----------------
<20>HIS IS A MIXTURE OF 6 PARTS CHARCOAL, 3 PARTS POTASSIUM NITRATE, AND 1 PART
SULFUR. <20>IX WELL... <20>T IS VERY MUCH LIKE BLACK POWDER, BUT SMOKES MORE, AND
STINKS TO THE POINT OF DRIVING PEOPLE AWAY. <20>ESS HEAVY ON THE POTASSIUM
NITRATE THAN THE OTHER.
<EFBFBD>UT <20>USTERS
-----------
<20>HESE ARE EASY TO MAKE, AND MAY BE ALTERED IN POWER EASILY. <20>AKE A SHOTGUN
SHELL, DETERMINE THE GAUGE YOURSELF, BUT START WITH A 20 GAUGE. <20>APE A LARGE
MARBLE TO THE PRIMER. <20>OU MAY, OR MAY NOT WANT TO REMOVE THE SHOT. <20>
WOULD <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> SUGGEST IT. <20>LL YOU DO THEN IS THROW IT. <20>HE WEIGHT OF THE
MARBLE PULLS IT DOWN, HITS THE PRIMER, AND PUFF. <20>ON'T FORGET TO BE BEHIND SOMETHING IF YOU LEAVE THE SHOT IN.
<EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
----------
<EFBFBD>NGREDIENTS:
<20>RANULATED <20>OOL <20>HLORINE (<28>T LEAST 75% <20>ALCIUM <20>YPOCHLORITE) - <20>UGAR - <20>ATER
- 2 <20>ITER <20>ODA <20>OTTLE
<20>AKE A QUARTER OF <20>HLORINE AND PLACE IT IN AN EMPTY AND DRY 2 LITER
BOTTLE. <20>UT THE SAME AMOUNT OF SUGAR AND PLACE IT IN THE BOTTLE TOO. <20>DD
ENOUGH WATER TO MAKE THE MIXTURE SOAPY. <20>UT THE CAP ON AND THROW IT AWAY!!!
<EFBFBD>T SPLATTERS A NOXIOUS AND BLINDING CHEMICAL WHEN IT GOES OFF. <20>S THE SUGAR
AND CHLORINE DISSOLVE IN THE WATER, THEY WILL REACT WITH EACH OTHER. <20>HE <20>OMB
IS AS LOUD AS AN <20>-80. <20>HE BOMB WILL TAKE ANYWHERE FROM 30 SECONDS TO 5
MINUTES TO GO OFF. <20>O IF IT DOESN'T EXPLODE, STILL STAY A WAY AND COME BACK
THE NEXT DAY AND EXAMINE IT. <20>F IT DOESN'T WORK, TRY ADJUSTING THE AMOUNTS OF
SUGAR AND CHLORINE.
** <20> DIDN'T WRITE THIS ONE, BUT THANX TO WHOEVER DID **
<EFBFBD>LACK <20>OWDER
------------
<EFBFBD>OMPOSITION:
74% <20>OTASSIUM <20>ITRATE(<28>ALTPETER)
15.6% <20>HARCOAL
10.4% <20>ULFUR
<20>RIND THIS ALL TOGETHER, UNTIL YOU HAVE A FINE POWDER. <20>UT IN A CONTAINER AND
MIX UNTIL IT IS NEARLY BLACK. <20>DD SOME RUBBING ALCOHOL AND MIX TOGETHER SOME
MORE. <20>SE YOUR IMAGAINATION ON WAYS TO MIX IT, JUST DON'T GET IT TOO HOT.
<EFBFBD>LACK POWDER IS USED FOR A LOT OF THINGS, INCLUDING BLASTING, SO DON'T FORGET
ABOUT BLACK POWDER, JUST BECAUSE YOU WANT TO MAKE <20>-4!!! <20>HE INGREDIENTS MAY
BE OBTAINED AT A DRUG STORE.
** <20>OTE: <20>AKE SURE YOU GRIND THE <20>HARCOAL INTO A VERY FINE POWDER!!! **
<EFBFBD>MIDPULVER
----------
<20>MIDPULVER IS A FLAHLESS, ALMOST SMOKELESS POWDER. (<28>HEN FIRED FROM A GUN.
<20>T GOES EASIER ON THE POTASSIUM NITRATE THAN BLACK POWDER, ALTHOUGH IT ABSORBS
WATER FROM THE AIR, AND THIS DEACTIVATES IT. <20>TORE IN A WATERPROOFED CONTAINER
<EFBFBD>OMPOSITIONS:
<20>MID #1 <20>MID #2
<EFBFBD>OTASSIUM <20>ITRATE: 40% 14%
<EFBFBD>MMONIUM <20>ITRATE: 38% 37%
<EFBFBD>HARCOAL 22% 49%
<EFBFBD>F THE TWO, #2 IS THE BETTER FORMULA.
<EFBFBD>MMONIUM <20>ITRATE IS A FERTILIZER, AND CAN BE OBTAINED AT A FEED STORE.
+------------------------------------+
+ <20>ALL THESE <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> BOARDS: +
+ <20>HE <20>OB 313-782-9519 +
+ <20>.<2E>. ][ 313-271-1095 +
+ <20>.<2E>. <20>AIN 313-386-5469 +
+ <20>HE <20>OLE IN THE <20>ALL 313-383-4996+
+ <20>ARBLE <20>ADNESS 619-353-0970 +
+------------------------------------+
(<28>) <20>ANUARY 1987, <20>ILAMBER.
<EFBFBD>HANX TO <20>IGGER FOR DISTRIBUTION.
<20> MAY BE FOUND AT ANY OF THE ABOVE BOARDS, FOR QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS.
<EFBFBD>ISCLAIMER:
-----------
<20>HE ABOVE IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATIONAL USES ONLY. (<28>IGHT?) <20>ND THE WRITER
IS <20><><EFBFBD> RESPONSIBLE FOR <20><><EFBFBD> INJURIES INCURRED. <20>LEASE WORK WITH SMALL
QUANTITIES TO GET THE FEEL. <20>EEP ABOUT 100-300 FEET AWAY, UNTIL YOU HAVE HAD
EXPERIENCE.
[<5B> DON'T KNOW WHY <20> PUT MY NAME HERE, SOME SCUM WILL REMOVE IT, <20>'M SURE.]
[===========================================================]
[ Soldiers of Fortune ]
[ proudly present ]
[ ]
[ HOW TO MAKE M-80's - The Right Way ]
[ by Sir Loki ]
[===========================================================]
In this documentation you will learn how to make very high
powered M-80's. These are very dangerous and could cause
very bad results if made without care. Be sure to follow
these steps EXACTLY for best results. You may want to do
your own changes if you think they will help any.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
-------------------
1/2" x 1 1/2" Tubes with a 1/16" wall with red outer wrap.
- Order about 50 of these from most PAPER TUBE Company's.
1/2" diameter paper end plugs.
- Order 100 of these or double whatever the amount of Paper
Tubes you ordered.
1/8" Water proof fuses.
- Order as much of this that you would like. Each M-80 will
require about 2 1/2" of this fuse or even longer depending
on what you want. But i would recommend at least 2 1/2" per
M-80
Potassium Perchlorate.
- Order about 1 pound or so (Depends on what you will be
using). This is also known as Salt Peter.
Aluminum Powder.
- Order about 1/2 pound or exactly half of the amount of Salt
Peter you have ordered (I.E. 10 Pounds Salt Peter = 5
Pounds Aluminum Powder). Make sure it is at least 400
Mesh, 600 mesh is encouraged though.
Elmers White Glue.
- Just go to a store and by as much as you can afford. You
might want to get at least 1 gallon so you can "MASS
PRODUCE" you M-80's.
Q-Tips.
- Just enough Q-Tips for placing glue in the paper tubes.
Newspaper.
- Use this to do your work on.
Paper Cups.
- Paper cups are to hold the glue. You may want to use
something else.
A Pretty Big Bowl.
- Use the bowl to hold the Flash Powder when it is made.
Also to mix it in.
Spoon.
- The spoon is used to scoop the Flash Powder and put it into
the tubes. You may want to use something different.
-------------------
Setting up your work area:
--------------------------
You might want to do this outside on your porch or something.
First - Place the newspaper in a big enough area to suit your
needs.
Second - Get all the materials organized in a special place.
Make sure the Salt Peter and Aluminum Powder are no
where near flames and if you have 400 mesh Aluminum
Powder do not put it with the Salt Peter just yet.
Third - Get a paper cup and fill it with some of the glue.
Forth - Mix up a batch of Flash Powder by adding 4 cups of
Salt Peter with 2 cups of Aluminum Powder. It
doesn't matter how much but make sure it's a 2 to 1
ratio using Salt Peter to Aluminum Powder. Be VERY
Careful in this process because if you aren't you
could blow you head off or at least leave a permanent
scar. It is very sensitive to Friction and Impact.
If you are using 400 mesh Aluminum Powder take even
more precaution.
--------------------------
=============
Development:
=============
MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THESE STEP BY STEP!
Step #1: Take a Q-Tip and dip it into the glue. Spread the
glue on the inside of one end of a paper tube. Now
insert one of the paper end plugs into the tube.
Let the tube with the plug dry for about 5 minutes.
Step #2: Punch a 1/8" hole in the center of the tube.
Diagram:
[---------------]
[ o ]
[ ]
[---------------]
The 'o' indicates a hole approximately 1/8".
Step #3: Cut the fuses into 2 1/2" Pieces or whatever you are
gonna use. Preferably at least 2 1/2"!
Step #4: Take another Q-Tip, dip it into the glue, and then
put some of the glue around the 1/8" hole. Insert
fuse into hole, add some (about a drop) glue around
the hole and the fuse to securely hold it. Let it
dry for 2-3 minutes.
Step #5: Use the spoon to scoop some of the Flash Powder and
add generously to the tube. The tube should be
about 2/3 full before you go on.
Step #6: Dip another Q-Tip into the glue and add to the last
side of the tube. Make sure there is enough glue to
hold the paper plug then insert the paper plug. Let
this dry for about 5 minutes.
Step #7: To one end of the tube take a drop of glue and
spread all over the paper plug to ensure that it is
safely in place. Let that side dry for 5 minutes
then do the same to the other side.
Step #8: Let the M-80 stand alone for at least 30 minutes for
all the glue to dry. After this is done you might
want to make sure the plugs are in and glue them
again.
That is it for Development.
========================
I'd like to thank all the Chemistry textbooks that provided me with this great "information"
and all the BBS's that provided other texts for this definitive and indepth file on things that
go BOOM!!
Thanks and have fun with your M-80's
EnemaCowboy, Storm Shadow, T.S.
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