1502 lines
55 KiB
Plaintext
1502 lines
55 KiB
Plaintext
Another file downloaded from:
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!
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-$- & the Temple of the Screaming Electron
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! * Walnut Creek, CA
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+ /^\ |
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! | |/\/^\ _^_ 2400/1200/300 baud (415) 935-5845
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/^\ / @ | \/_-_\ Jeff Hunter, Sysop
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|@ \_| @ @|- - -| \
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| | | /^\ | _ | - - - - - - - - - *
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|___/_\___|_|_|_(_)_| Aaaaaeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! /
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Specializing in conversations, E-Mail, obscure information,
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entertainment, the arts, politics, futurism, thoughtful discussion,
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insane speculation, and wild rumours. An ALL-TEXT BBS.
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"Raw Data for Raw Nerves."
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From wang@ac.dal.caWed Feb 8 01:13:44 1995
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Date: 4 FEB 95 23:47:30 -0400
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From: wang@ac.dal.ca
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Newsgroups: rec.pyrotechnics
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Subject: How to Make Bombs Book 1 [1/]
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here is the first book and I hope you can read this, if not I will repost
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if there is any followup. Replies will not be read.
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enjoy
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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Introduction
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Warning ........................................... 1
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Chapter 1 - Low Explosives
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Blackpowder ....................................... 2
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Other Types of Blackpowder ........................ 3
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Zinc Explosive .................................... 4
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Water Fire Starter ................................ 4
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Explosive Misxtures ............................... 4
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Chapter 2 - High Explosives
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Astrolite ......................................... 6
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Astrolite A/A-1-5 ................................. 7
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Sodium Chlorate Explosives ........................ 7
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Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ......................... 7
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Rocket Fuel ....................................... 7
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Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ................ 7
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Incendiary Mixture ................................ 7
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Impact Mixture .................................... 8
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Filler Explosive .................................. 8
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Nitromethane Explosives ........................... 8
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Nitromethane 'solid' Explosives ................... 8
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Picric Acid ....................................... 8
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Tetryl ............................................ 9
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Plastic Explosives from Bleach .................... 9
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R.D.X. ............................................ 10
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Composition 'C' ................................... 12
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Composition C-2 and C-3 ........................... 12
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Gelatin Dynamite .................................. 14
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Peroxyacetone ..................................... 14
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Cellulose Nitrate (guncotton) ..................... 15
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Nitrogen Triiodide ................................ 15
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Nitroglycerine .................................... 15
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Making Sulfuric Acid .............................. 16
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T.N.T. (Trinitrotoulene) .......................... 16
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Mercury Fulminate ................................. 16
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Chapter 3 - Incendiaries
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Napalm ............................................ 17
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Thermite .......................................... 17
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Chemically Ignited Explosives ..................... 17
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Chapter 4 - Smoke Bombs
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Smoke Producer .................................... 18
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Smoke Bomb ........................................ 18
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HTH Chlorine Bomb ................................. 18
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Smoke Mixtures .................................... 19
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Chlorine and Turpentine ........................... 21
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Chapter 5 - Bombs
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Generic Bomb ...................................... 22
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Firebombs ......................................... 22
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Pipe Bomb ......................................... 22
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Contact Grenade ................................... 23
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Carbide Bomb ...................................... 24
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Hindenberg Bomb ................................... 24
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Page 1
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INTRODUCTION
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The trouble with chemical books these days, is that they never explain
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in detail how to make something that you want. Sure, they tell you how the
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Chinese did it in 1500 or ten centuries ago. But now days, that does not
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help. Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information
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on HOW-TO-DO it.
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It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to
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make something go "BOOM". An interesting point to remember that it is much
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easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for
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a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing
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the walls out of a building is easy. You can find what you need in grocery
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stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies. Another, but harder place,
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to get chemicals is a chemical supply house. These places can be dangerous
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to your explosive career because some supply houses were told to report
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people who buy chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person
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were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The
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reason: those chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene
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(TNT).
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WARNING:
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--------
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The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this
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text are dangerous, even for an experienced chemist. Also, the construc-
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tion or possession of many of these devices would be in violation of many
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federal, state, and local laws.
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The author or authors are not responsible for what damages or trouble that
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the missuse of the information that is stated herein. Therefore you are
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responsible for all of your actions that you make. Intended for information
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purposes only.
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So, As you can tell this text is not meant to be read by the total
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IDIOT! Before you attempt at making any of the devices I would suggest
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that you have some knowledge about chemistry. Remember: SAFTEY FIRST!!!
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Page 2
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CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES]
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living
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daylight out of some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this
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chapter I will explain the making of many different types of low
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explosives.
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BLACKPOWDER
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You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood
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charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium
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nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda. It is
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also called chile saltpeter. Sodium nitrate make a slightly more powerful
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black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from
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the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight
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container. You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder
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used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell
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sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda,
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it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200
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degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or
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two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of
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reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery
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store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the
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results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix
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by volume:
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6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate
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2 parts powdered charcoal
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1 part sulfur
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This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly
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confined. It can be greatly improved, however, by processing it as
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follows:
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Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between
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thumb and finger.
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Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan.
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Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes.
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Get it totally dry. Grind into a fine a powder as possible with a
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mortar and pestle.
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If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion.
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It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive
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to sparks.
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If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey
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powder.
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Page 3
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OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER
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--------------------------
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Below are eleven black/gun powder formulas. They are more powerful
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than the ordinary potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or
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advantage) is that it is very sensitive to sparks and some leave a
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corrosive residue. A word of caution: when you decide to make these
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compounds be careful for some of them might decide to go up just because
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they want to.
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[All chemicals are measured by volume]
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1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2%
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Sulfur 15.4%
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Charcoal 15.4%
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2: Potassium nitrate 70.4%
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Sulfur 19.4%
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Sodium sulfate 10.2%
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3: Potassium nitrate 64.0%
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sulfur 12.0%
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sawdust 17.0%
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charcoal 7.0%
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4: Potassium nitrate 50.0%
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Ammonium perchlorate 25.0%
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Sulfur 12.5%
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charcoal 12.5%
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5: Barium nitrate 75.0%
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Charcoal 12.5%
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Sulfur 12.5%
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6: Sodium peroxide 67.0%
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Sodium thiosulphate 33.0%
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7: Potassium chlorate 75.0%
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Sulfur 12.5%
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Charcoal 12.5%
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8: Potassium nitrate 79.0%
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straw charcoal 12.0%
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sulfur 12.0%
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9: Potassium nitrate 70.6%
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Sulfur 23.5%
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Antimony sulfate 5.9%
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Page 4
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10: Potassium nitrate 37.5%
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Starch 37.5%
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Sulfur 18.75%
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Antimony powder 6.25%
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11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0%
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Potassium nitrate 40.0%
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Charcoal 11.0%
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The above chemical ratios are percentages. When making the stuff, be
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sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you possibly can. The
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finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.
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ZINC EXPLOSIVE
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--------------
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To make a big flash of flames almost instantly try mixing:
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1 part Zinc dust
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1 part Sulfur
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When these two mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly!
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Be careful for it does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that
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it is around if not expecting it. This is not a powerful explosive but it
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is violent even when not confined, so be careful.
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WATER FIRE STARTER
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------------------
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So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it.
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Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a
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drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which
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reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the
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iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
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when mixed with iodine vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin
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burning.
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Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams
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Ammonium choride: 1 gram
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Zinc dust : 8 grams
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Iodine crystals : 1 gram
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EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
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------------------
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Following is a list of chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained.
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You will also find the chemical symbol of another chemical which explodes
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on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the ever so useful
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pipe bomb.
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Just for the people that don't know:
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Page 5
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CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Acetic acid H2SO4 HNO3
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Acetic anhydride H2SO4 HNO3
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Acrolein H2SO4 HNO3
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Allyl alcohol H2SO4 HNO3
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Allyl chloride H2SO4 HNO3
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Aniline H2SO4 HNO3
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Aniline acetate H2SO4 HNO3
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Aniline hydrochloride H2SO4 HNO3
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Benzoyl peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
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Cyanic acid H2SO4 HNO3
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Chlorosulfonic acid H2SO4 HNO3
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Dimethyl keytone H2SO4 HNO3
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Epichlorohydrin H2SO4 HNO3
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Ethylene diamine H2SO4 HNO3
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Ethylene imine H2SO4 HNO3
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Hydrogen peroxide H2SO4 HNO3
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Isoprene H2SO4 HNO3
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Mesityl oxide H2SO4 HNO3
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Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4
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Carbon disulfide H2SO4
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Cresol H2SO4
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Cumene H2SO4
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Diisobutylene H2SO4
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Ethylene cyanohydrin H2SO4
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Ethylene glycol H2SO4
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Hydrofluoric acid H2SO4
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Cyanide of sodium HNO3
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Cyclohexanol HNO3
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Cyclohexanone HNO3
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Ethyl alcohol HNO3
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Hydrazine HNO3
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Hydriodic acid HNO3
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Isopropyl ether HNO3
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Manganese HNO3
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H2SO4 - Sulfuric Acid
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HNO3 - Nitric Acid
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Page 6
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CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES]
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Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can
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remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about
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trying any of these, that you have some background knowledge on explosive
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or chemistry. These explosives range from sound sensitive to water
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sensitive or electrically ignited.
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It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are
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easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to
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find. In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed her e you will
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have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the
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chemical houses have been told to notify the police if a certain
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combination of chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the
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information about that person ordering to the police. And it is possible
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that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using,
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selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard
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penalty can rise. Even for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true!
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ASTROLITE
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---------
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The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket
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propellant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the
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world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more
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powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than
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TNT (not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
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"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to
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produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) compared
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with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT. In addition, a very
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unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to
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be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable...In field
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tests, Astrolite G has remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even
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when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?...
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Astrolite Dynamite!
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To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) two parts by weight
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of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine,
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produces Astrolite G... Feel free to use different ratios.
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Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time
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getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural
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chemicals (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension),
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polymerization catalyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder
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fluxes, photographic developers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the
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chemical you should be careful with.
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Page 7
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ASTROLITE A/A-1-5
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-----------------
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Ok, here's the good part...
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Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with
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hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A
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has a detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
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You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens
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though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be
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able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
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SODIUM CHLORATE EXPLOSIVES
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--------------------------
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Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
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substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find
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sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is
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used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.
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SODIUM CHLORATE GUNPOWDER
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-------------------------
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65% sodium chlorate
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22% charcoal
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13% sulphur
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and sprinkle some graphite on top.
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ROCKET FUEL
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-----------
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6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
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ROCKET FUEL 2 (better performance)
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----------------------------------
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50% sodium chlorate
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35% rubber cement
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10% epoxy resin hardener
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5% sulphur
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You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are
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using.
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INCENDIARY MIXTURE
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------------------
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55% aluminum powder (atomized)
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45% sodium chlorate
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5% sulphur
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Page 8
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IMPACT MIXTURE
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--------------
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50% red phosphorus
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50% sodium chlorate
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Unlike potassium chlorate, sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
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mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
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FILLER EXPLOSIVE
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----------------
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85% sodium chlorate
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10% vaseline
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5% aluminum powder
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NITROMETHANE EXPLOSIVES
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-----------------------
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Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
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Specific gravity: 1.139
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Flash point : 95f
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Auto-ignite : 785f
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Derivation: Reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
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Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes,
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fats, etc.
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To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
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1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
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2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
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Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of
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6,200MPS.
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NITROMETHANE 'SOLID' EXPLOSIVES
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-------------------------------
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2 parts nitromethane
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5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
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Soak for 3-5 min. when done, store in an air-tight container. This is
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supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60%
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nitroglycerin, and has 30% more brisance.
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PICRIC ACID
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-----------
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Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of
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sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a steady
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temperature of 95 degrees Celsius for four to six hours depending on the
|
|
quantities of phenol used. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted
|
|
Page 9
|
|
|
|
with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added.
|
|
The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will
|
|
produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly but more
|
|
importantly the temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees
|
|
Celsius. Ten or so minutes after the addition of nitric acid the picric
|
|
acid will be fully formed and you can drain off the excess acid. It should
|
|
be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid
|
|
is present. When washing, use only cold water. After this, the pircic acid
|
|
should be allowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful
|
|
explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is more expensive to
|
|
make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled water form as
|
|
pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should
|
|
never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact
|
|
there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon
|
|
formation.
|
|
|
|
|
|
TETRYL
|
|
------
|
|
|
|
A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount
|
|
of concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal
|
|
amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well
|
|
stirred. After about five minutes, the tetrylis filtered and then washed
|
|
in cold water. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small
|
|
amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any
|
|
remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary
|
|
according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl
|
|
is free of acids, filter it from the water and allowed to dry. When tetryl
|
|
is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.
|
|
|
|
|
|
PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
|
|
-----------------------------
|
|
|
|
This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
|
|
explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive
|
|
filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German,
|
|
and some other forces involved in that conflict.
|
|
|
|
These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures
|
|
in the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care.
|
|
|
|
One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur,
|
|
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in
|
|
mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose
|
|
explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives,
|
|
make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS
|
|
UNTIL IT BLOWS!
|
|
|
|
The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an
|
|
expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not
|
|
economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause
|
|
the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and
|
|
yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product.
|
|
|
|
These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for
|
|
instigating detonation.
|
|
Page 10
|
|
|
|
To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium
|
|
hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove , etc., a
|
|
battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple
|
|
beam balance (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as
|
|
salt substitute).
|
|
|
|
Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin
|
|
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium
|
|
chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a
|
|
boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if
|
|
battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge).
|
|
|
|
When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the
|
|
refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celsius.
|
|
Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution
|
|
again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
|
|
|
|
Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled
|
|
water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled
|
|
water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the
|
|
solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This p rocess of
|
|
purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be
|
|
relatively pure potassium chlorate.
|
|
|
|
Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to
|
|
drive off all moisture.
|
|
|
|
Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white
|
|
gasoline, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
|
|
chlorate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl.
|
|
|
|
Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed.
|
|
Allow all the gasoline to evaporate.
|
|
|
|
Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
|
|
sulfides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the
|
|
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till
|
|
water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation
|
|
velocity.
|
|
|
|
|
|
RDX
|
|
---
|
|
|
|
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE
|
|
DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS.
|
|
|
|
Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has
|
|
been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in
|
|
demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition
|
|
plastique explosives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation
|
|
that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was
|
|
preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover
|
|
all these explosives in their chronological progression as they were
|
|
developed and standardized by the armed forces. All these explosives are
|
|
cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisizing agents used to achieve
|
|
the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the
|
|
total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinittrime or cyclonite is
|
|
Page 11
|
|
|
|
manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetetramine,
|
|
(methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The
|
|
hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will
|
|
most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine
|
|
can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars fo r camp
|
|
stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel
|
|
bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made
|
|
with common ammonia water (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde
|
|
solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water
|
|
in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution
|
|
to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are
|
|
all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat
|
|
that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off
|
|
any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight
|
|
jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you
|
|
will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place
|
|
32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium
|
|
nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will
|
|
generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS
|
|
AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD
|
|
VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of
|
|
the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of
|
|
the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by
|
|
ice water.
|
|
|
|
This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort
|
|
and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This
|
|
acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the
|
|
required size batch which is determined by the person producing the
|
|
explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or smaller but the same
|
|
rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric
|
|
acid produced by the above procedure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath.
|
|
50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure
|
|
that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS.
|
|
This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the
|
|
acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be
|
|
maintained. If the temperature approaches 30 degrees, IMMEDIATLY STOP THE
|
|
ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an acceptable
|
|
level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the
|
|
temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20
|
|
minutes coninuing the vigorous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour
|
|
this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water.
|
|
Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that
|
|
are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid
|
|
removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting
|
|
them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then
|
|
placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm
|
|
water and check the acidity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper.
|
|
You want it to read between 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there
|
|
is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid
|
|
is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to
|
|
7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until
|
|
ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE
|
|
TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful
|
|
than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing
|
|
processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a
|
|
pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the
|
|
are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when
|
|
Page 12
|
|
|
|
pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550
|
|
M/second!
|
|
|
|
|
|
COMPOSITION 'C'
|
|
---------------
|
|
|
|
All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and
|
|
C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care.
|
|
|
|
This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted
|
|
early in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C'
|
|
compounds because of its relative ease of manufacture and the easy
|
|
aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in
|
|
standard demolition blocks.
|
|
|
|
This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following
|
|
composition:
|
|
|
|
R.D.X.......................... 88.3%
|
|
Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1%
|
|
Lecithin....................... 00.6%
|
|
|
|
(all percentages are by weight)
|
|
|
|
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large
|
|
crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive.
|
|
This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic
|
|
(except when ingested).
|
|
|
|
It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the
|
|
explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive
|
|
properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes
|
|
brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably.
|
|
|
|
Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to
|
|
dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the
|
|
R.D.X. and allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of
|
|
all gasoline.
|
|
|
|
The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound
|
|
into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained.
|
|
|
|
This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made
|
|
the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated
|
|
temparatures for long periods of time.
|
|
|
|
It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice,
|
|
especially if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity
|
|
of 7900/MPS.
|
|
|
|
|
|
COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
|
|
-----------------------
|
|
|
|
These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they
|
|
don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds.
|
|
|
|
Page 13
|
|
|
|
It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this part
|
|
was written for imformatative purposes only.
|
|
|
|
Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE.
|
|
It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive
|
|
manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or
|
|
'C-3'.
|
|
|
|
It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the
|
|
same procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as
|
|
follows:
|
|
|
|
R.D.X................... 80%
|
|
Mononitrotolulene....... 5%
|
|
Dinitrotolulene......... 5%
|
|
T.N.T. guncotton........ 5%
|
|
Dimethylformide......... 5%
|
|
|
|
(see below for rest of recipe)
|
|
|
|
'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'.
|
|
It was standardized and adopted by the military as following composition:
|
|
|
|
R.D.X................ 77%
|
|
Mononitrotolulene.... 16%
|
|
Dinitrotolulene...... 5%
|
|
Tetryl............... 1%
|
|
T.N.T. guncotton..... 1%
|
|
|
|
'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam
|
|
jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment.
|
|
The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer is
|
|
activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the
|
|
stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has
|
|
been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture
|
|
until it has cooled to room temperature.
|
|
|
|
This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65
|
|
degrees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not
|
|
impair it's explosive properties.
|
|
|
|
'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of
|
|
'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although
|
|
the explosives detonation properties are not affected.
|
|
|
|
Water does not affect explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for
|
|
under-water demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an
|
|
application.
|
|
|
|
When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place.
|
|
It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this
|
|
temperature.
|
|
|
|
While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with
|
|
care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the
|
|
skin.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 14
|
|
|
|
It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a
|
|
booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and
|
|
was avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is
|
|
approximately 7700 MPS.
|
|
|
|
|
|
GELATIN DYNAMITE
|
|
----------------
|
|
|
|
Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive. Dynamite.
|
|
|
|
1) Nitro........................ 12%
|
|
Guncotten.................... .5%
|
|
Amonium nitrate.............. 87.5%
|
|
|
|
2) Nitro........................ 88%
|
|
Potassium nitrate............ 5%
|
|
Tetryl....................... 7%
|
|
|
|
3) Nitro........................ 24%
|
|
Guncotten.................... 1%
|
|
Amonium nitrate.............. 75%
|
|
|
|
4) Nitro........................ 75%
|
|
Guncotten.................... 5%
|
|
Potassium nitrate............ 15%
|
|
Wood meal.................... 5%
|
|
|
|
5) Nitro........................ 80%
|
|
Ethalyne glycol dinitrate.... 20%
|
|
|
|
|
|
After making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and expoxy each end.
|
|
But be careful for it might be a little unstable because of the
|
|
nitroglycerine (nitro). Before it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one
|
|
of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it! Which
|
|
in a way it does.
|
|
|
|
|
|
PEROXYACETONE
|
|
-------------
|
|
|
|
Peroxyacetone is VERY flamable & has been reported to be shock sensitive.
|
|
|
|
Materials:
|
|
|
|
4ml of Acetone
|
|
4ml of 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
|
|
4 of drops conc. hydrochloric acid
|
|
150mm test tube
|
|
|
|
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4
|
|
drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should
|
|
begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water
|
|
bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the
|
|
slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two
|
|
hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while
|
|
staying at LEAST a meter away).
|
|
Page 15
|
|
|
|
CELLULOSE NITRATE (GUNCOTTON)
|
|
-----------------------------
|
|
|
|
Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it
|
|
does not give off smoke when it burns.
|
|
|
|
Materials:
|
|
|
|
70ml of concentrated sulfuric acid
|
|
30ml of concentrated nitric acid
|
|
5g of absorbent cotton
|
|
250ml of sodium bicarbonate
|
|
250ml beaker
|
|
ice bath
|
|
tongs
|
|
paper towels
|
|
|
|
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric
|
|
acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the
|
|
acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of
|
|
500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium
|
|
bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling
|
|
occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
|
|
|
|
|
|
NITROGEN TRIIODIDE
|
|
------------------
|
|
|
|
This is very shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved,
|
|
dropped, touched, breathed on... etc. For one thing I hope you don't do
|
|
any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can move a lot of
|
|
mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to
|
|
make this, and this is the best one. I think.
|
|
|
|
Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household
|
|
ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass
|
|
full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid
|
|
remaining. Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide,
|
|
which is very sensitive to touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is
|
|
wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you want to use it. To
|
|
detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till
|
|
omething agitates it. Remember too much can harm a lot of things. It does
|
|
pack a wallop!
|
|
|
|
|
|
NITROGLYCERIN
|
|
-------------
|
|
|
|
Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the
|
|
world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you
|
|
have to do:
|
|
|
|
By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid.
|
|
The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The
|
|
sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring.
|
|
Never mix them the other way round for they will splatter. Each part of
|
|
glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when
|
|
adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25 degrees
|
|
Page 16
|
|
|
|
centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be
|
|
dumped into cold water fast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make
|
|
nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids
|
|
together and can easily be lost control of.
|
|
|
|
|
|
MAKING SULFURIC ACID
|
|
--------------------
|
|
|
|
No, your not really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more
|
|
concentrated. All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all
|
|
of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove. Do not use metal
|
|
for unwanted occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and boil
|
|
it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off
|
|
the heat and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an
|
|
electric hot plate & make it outside because the fumes are very poisonous.
|
|
|
|
|
|
T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene)
|
|
--------------------------
|
|
|
|
Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of:
|
|
2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30
|
|
degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitro-
|
|
toluene and mix with 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid
|
|
being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid.
|
|
Keep the temperature at 60 -70 degrees while they are slowly mixed. Raise
|
|
temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes.
|
|
|
|
The dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with
|
|
225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra
|
|
dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees
|
|
for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the trini-
|
|
trotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking
|
|
it in benzene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
MERCURY FUMLMINATE
|
|
------------------
|
|
|
|
Mix 2 parts of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part
|
|
mercury. This is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid
|
|
is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation.
|
|
|
|
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Page 17
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|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
CHAPTER THREE [INCENDIARIES]
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
|
|
What is an incendiary? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but
|
|
can burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an
|
|
incendiary, because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and
|
|
can even melt metal.
|
|
|
|
|
|
NAPALM
|
|
------
|
|
|
|
This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn for
|
|
long periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can't even put
|
|
it out. What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in
|
|
some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to
|
|
the gas until you can not feed any more at all. At points it will look
|
|
like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute and let the other gas
|
|
rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you
|
|
want. When it is done, it will burn for a long time. I would suggest that
|
|
you do not place any on you because once it is lit it will travel quite
|
|
quickly since it melts the thickend gasoline and it rolls down. This is
|
|
also fun to play with. The only problem with it is it gives off too much
|
|
smoke (which, I may add - is poison).
|
|
|
|
|
|
THERMITE
|
|
--------
|
|
|
|
This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although
|
|
it is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is
|
|
what you do: Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide
|
|
(rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered alumnium with three parts iron
|
|
oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but once you get it going don't plan
|
|
on putting it out, because it can produce enough heat to melt through a
|
|
steel plate. The finer the ingredients are the easier it will be to
|
|
ignite.
|
|
|
|
|
|
CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES
|
|
-----------------------------
|
|
|
|
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose)
|
|
burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1
|
|
drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this:
|
|
when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form
|
|
chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
|
|
|
|
|
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|
Page 18
|
|
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS]
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
|
|
So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many
|
|
different types of smoke can be made. Even colored smoke.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
SMOKE PRODUCER
|
|
--------------
|
|
|
|
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since
|
|
this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if
|
|
necessary for larger amounts of smoke.
|
|
|
|
6g zinc powder
|
|
1g sulfur powder
|
|
|
|
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
|
|
be created.
|
|
|
|
|
|
SMOKE BOMB
|
|
----------
|
|
|
|
This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix:
|
|
|
|
2 part Potassium Nitrate
|
|
1 Part Granulated sugar.
|
|
|
|
Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium
|
|
nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard,
|
|
just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and
|
|
wait till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the
|
|
stuff turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of
|
|
the compound. You also can light it without melting it but it burns too
|
|
fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does not.
|
|
|
|
|
|
HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB
|
|
-----------------------
|
|
|
|
Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two
|
|
together in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you
|
|
mix the two together they will begin to sizzle and then it will begin to
|
|
smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it does
|
|
begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If
|
|
you do not be careful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I
|
|
suggest to place the mixture in a glass container for it gets real hot.
|
|
And anybody in their right mind will not go pick it up and try to throw it
|
|
when it has done smoking. The smoke is known to last for over 2 minutes
|
|
and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 19
|
|
|
|
SMOKE MIXTURES
|
|
--------------
|
|
|
|
|
|
[Black]
|
|
|
|
Hexachloroethane......... 60%
|
|
Anthracene............... 20%
|
|
Magnesium (powder)....... 20%
|
|
|
|
[Brown]
|
|
|
|
Pitch.................... 29.2%
|
|
Potasium Nitrate......... 47.4%
|
|
Borax.................... 10.6%
|
|
Calcium Carbonate......... 4.9%
|
|
Sand...................... 4.0%
|
|
Sulfur.................... 3.9%
|
|
|
|
[Grey]
|
|
|
|
Hexachloroethane......... 50%
|
|
Zinc Powder.............. 25%
|
|
Zinc Oxide............... 10%
|
|
Potassium Nitrate........ 10%
|
|
Colophony Resin........... 5%
|
|
|
|
[Grey]
|
|
|
|
Hexachloroethane......... 45.5%
|
|
Zinc Oxide............... 45.5%
|
|
Calcium Silicide.......... 9.0%
|
|
|
|
[White]
|
|
|
|
Potassium Chlorate....... 20%
|
|
Ammonium Chloride........ 50%
|
|
Naphthalene.............. 20%
|
|
Charcoal................. 10%
|
|
|
|
[White]
|
|
|
|
Potassium nitrate........ 48.5%
|
|
Sulfur................... 48.5%
|
|
Realgar................... 3.0%
|
|
|
|
[White]
|
|
|
|
Potassium Nitrate........ 50%
|
|
Sugar.................... 50%
|
|
|
|
[Yellow]
|
|
|
|
Potassium Nitrate........ 25%
|
|
Sulfur................... 16%
|
|
Realgar.................. 59%
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 20
|
|
|
|
[White]
|
|
|
|
Potassium nitrate......... 6%
|
|
Antimony sulfide.......... 1%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 1%
|
|
|
|
[Yellow]
|
|
|
|
Potassium nitrate......... 4%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 1%
|
|
Charcoal.................. 2%
|
|
Sodium chloride........... 3%
|
|
|
|
[Yellow]
|
|
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
|
|
Charcoal.................. 1%
|
|
Potassium nitrate........ 24%
|
|
Sodium carbonate.......... 6%
|
|
|
|
[Red]
|
|
|
|
Strontium nitrate......... 4%
|
|
Powdered orange shellac... 1%
|
|
|
|
[Red]
|
|
|
|
Strontium nitrate........ 11%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
|
|
Charcoal.................. 1%
|
|
Calcium carbonate........ 11%
|
|
Potassium nitrate......... 1%
|
|
|
|
[Purple]
|
|
|
|
Copper sulfate............ 1%
|
|
Strontium nitrate......... 1%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 1%
|
|
Charcoal.................. 1%
|
|
Potassium nitrate......... 3%
|
|
|
|
[Green]
|
|
|
|
Barium nitrate............ 7%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
|
|
Charcoal.................. 1%
|
|
Potassium nitrate......... 1%
|
|
|
|
[Green]
|
|
|
|
Barium chlorate........... 9%
|
|
Powdered orange shellac... 1%
|
|
|
|
[Blue]
|
|
|
|
Anitmony sulfide.......... 2%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 4%
|
|
Potassium nitrate........ 12%
|
|
Page 21
|
|
|
|
[Blue]
|
|
|
|
Potassium nitrate........ 12%
|
|
Powdered sulfur........... 3%
|
|
charcoal.................. 1%
|
|
Copper sulfate............ 2%
|
|
Powdered rosin............ 1%
|
|
|
|
|
|
CHLORINE & TURPENTINE
|
|
---------------------
|
|
|
|
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it
|
|
into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and
|
|
probably start burning...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 22
|
|
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS]
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
|
|
|
This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it
|
|
should be well excercised and you had better know what you are doing
|
|
before you even attempt to construct some of these devices. Remember that
|
|
the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be
|
|
breaking the law in some places. If you do make on of the devices that is
|
|
listed in here then I would suggest you make a prototype and set that one
|
|
off in the country and if it worked correctly then make your final one and
|
|
use it the way you had in mind.
|
|
|
|
|
|
GENERIC BOMB
|
|
------------
|
|
|
|
Aquire a glass container. Put in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top
|
|
and turn the container around to coat the inner surface. Add a few drops
|
|
of potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just
|
|
throw against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of
|
|
dynamite!
|
|
|
|
|
|
FIREBOMBS
|
|
---------
|
|
|
|
Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag
|
|
in the mouth. The original firebomb was one part gasoline and one part
|
|
motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to
|
|
burn. Some use one part roofing tar or one part melting wax to 2 parts
|
|
gasoline.
|
|
|
|
|
|
PIPE BOMB
|
|
---------
|
|
|
|
A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very dangerous!
|
|
|
|
To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot
|
|
long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end
|
|
of the pipe very good with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end
|
|
about little over the middle. Cap the pipe on the other end and make a
|
|
small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in electric
|
|
tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the
|
|
hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out.
|
|
|
|
To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to
|
|
the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then connect
|
|
the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to the
|
|
electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!!
|
|
|
|
Remember take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the
|
|
electrodes and run it far away and then connect the battery to it. If you
|
|
made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery! Remember,
|
|
this can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 23
|
|
|
|
CONTACT GRENADE
|
|
---------------
|
|
|
|
Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe
|
|
PVC (for test and fun)
|
|
Steel (for shrapnel)
|
|
|
|
12 guage shotgun shell
|
|
(fitted to pipe)
|
|
|
|
marble
|
|
ping pong ball
|
|
cap for pipe
|
|
|
|
2-3 ft. ribbon
|
|
(flights)
|
|
|
|
explosive charge
|
|
(of personal preferance)
|
|
a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when
|
|
vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest
|
|
or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have.
|
|
|
|
|
|
This design is a modified pipebomb which will be set off upon hard
|
|
contact. This makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or
|
|
lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact.
|
|
|
|
1) Cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside.
|
|
|
|
2) Carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely.
|
|
|
|
3) Glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer.
|
|
|
|
4) Cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to
|
|
make a simple form of casing.
|
|
|
|
5) Put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only
|
|
1/4 of the volume of pipe. Reason: 1 gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks
|
|
dynamite!!!).
|
|
|
|
6) Cap the pipe and epoxy into place.
|
|
|
|
7) Tie ribbon around tail section of pipe.
|
|
|
|
Relax. Now that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the
|
|
grenade will come down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it
|
|
hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer
|
|
then ignites the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used
|
|
for testing as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a
|
|
toy and should not be built to be played with. If you want a toy just
|
|
empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the primer and throw. It makes
|
|
a quasi-safe firework.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Page 24
|
|
|
|
CARBIDE BOMB
|
|
------------
|
|
|
|
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide
|
|
lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces and
|
|
put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide
|
|
will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar
|
|
to the gas used in curring torches. Eventually the glass will explode from
|
|
internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
|
|
fireball.
|
|
|
|
|
|
HINDENBERG BOMB
|
|
---------------
|
|
|
|
Get, a balloon, bottle, Liquid Plummer, foil, and a length of fuse.
|
|
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the Liquid plummer and add a little piece of
|
|
alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next of the bottle until the
|
|
balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen.
|
|
Now tie the balloon. Tape the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon
|
|
and light. Let the balloon rise into the air. When the fuse gets to the
|
|
balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|