2219 lines
85 KiB
Plaintext
2219 lines
85 KiB
Plaintext
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002: Credit Card Fraud
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003: Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach
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004: Picking Master Locks
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005: The Arts of Lockpicking I
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006: The Arts of Lockpicking II
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007: Solidox Bombs
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008: High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
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009: CO2 Bombs
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010: Thermite Bombs
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011: Touch Explosives
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012: Letter Bombs
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013: Paint Bombs
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014: Ways to send a car to HELL
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015: Do ya hate school?
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016: Phone related vandalism
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017: Highway police radar jamming
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018: Smoke Bombs
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019: Mail Box Bombs
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020: Hotwiring cars
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021: Napalm
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022: Fertilizer Bomb
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023: Tennis Ball Bomb
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024: Diskette Bombs
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025: Unlisted Phone Numbers
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026: Fuses
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027: How to make Potassium Nitrate
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028: Exploding Lightbulbs
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029: Under water igniters
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030: Home-brew blast cannon
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031: Chemical Equivalency List
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032: Phone Taps
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033: Landmines
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034: A different kind of Molitov Cocktail
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035: Phone Systems Tutorial I
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036: Phone Systems Tutorial II
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@@@ @ @ @@@ @ @@@ @ @ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@
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@ @@@ @@ @ @ @ @ @ @ @@ @ @ @ / @@ @@
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@ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @@@ @ @ @ @@@ @@@ @@@ @ @
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presents:
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******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** **
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** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
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** ** ** ** ** **** ***** ** ** ** ** **** v1.0
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** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
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******* ****** ****** ** ** ****** ****** ****** ** **
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Credit Card Fraud brought to you by The Jolly Roger
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For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
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With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
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easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
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always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
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worth it.
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Step One: Getting the credit card information
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First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
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card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
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the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
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department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
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next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
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dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
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card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
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sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
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phone comes in handy.
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First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
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information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
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call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
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the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
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been informed that your credit card may have been used for
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fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
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appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
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your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
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this ploy and give out their credit information.
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Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
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should be able to decipher the information given.
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Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
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Card examples:
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[American Express]
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XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
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MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
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JOE SHMOE
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[American Express]
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XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
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MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
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JOE SHMOE
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Explanation:
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MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
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expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
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XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
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even if the card holder is broke.
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[Mastercard]
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5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
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XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
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JOE SHMOE
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Explanation:
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XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
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process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
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second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
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combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
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these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
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lists, so check these first.
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[Visa]
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4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
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MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
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JOE SHMOE
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Explanation:
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Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
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everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
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followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:
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[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
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[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
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[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
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Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
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use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
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decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
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coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
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XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
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are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
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they are usually covered for large purchases.
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Step Three: Testing credit
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You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
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credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
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number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
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most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
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a special number you call that will give you an address from a
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phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
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balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
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out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
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stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
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businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
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go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
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credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
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give the credit information, and then give what is called a
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"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
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around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
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copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
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dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
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call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
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merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
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will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
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number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
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back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
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serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
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removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
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supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
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operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
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not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
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at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
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check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
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a customer when he/she "cancels".
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Step Four: The drop
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Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
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package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
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typical drop sites:
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[1] An empty house
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An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
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package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
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days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
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step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
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telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
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of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
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area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
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[2] Rent A Spot
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U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
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signed for. End your space when the package arrives.
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[3] People's houses
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Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
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Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
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package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
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keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
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calm when talking to the people.
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Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
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deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
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the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
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determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
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characters and cars that have not been there before.
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Step Five: Making the transaction
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You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
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necessary billing information, and a good drop site.
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The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
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It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
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phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
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don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
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salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
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trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
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voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
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on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
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shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
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day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
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order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
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a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
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Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
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Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
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investigation on the order.
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If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
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charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
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careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
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UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
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that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
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credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
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couple of years. Good luck!
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*---------------------------------------*
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| MAKING PLASTIC EXPLOSIVES FROM BLEACH |
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*---------------------------------------*
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Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
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and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
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grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
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France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
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amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
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procedure that follows.
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First off, you must obtain:
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[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
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[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
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[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
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chemicals)
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[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
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nutrition stores)
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Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
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heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
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potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
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Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
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and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
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hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
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Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
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is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
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crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
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and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
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Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
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distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
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milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
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and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
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form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
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"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
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pure potassium chlorate.
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Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
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drive off all moisture.
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Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
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in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
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90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
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into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
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chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
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Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
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friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
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explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
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grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
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type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
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blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
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The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
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etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
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and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
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should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
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caution at all times while performing the processes in this
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article.
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You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
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writing:
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Information Publishing Co.
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Box 10042
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Odessa, Texas 79762
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*-----------------------*
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| PICKING MASTER LOCKS |
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*-----------------------*
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Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
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Master combination locks and failed?
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The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
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protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
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not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
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The first number:
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Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
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While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
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the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
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not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
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have the first number of the combination.
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The second number:
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Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
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number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
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number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
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pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
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eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
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pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
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next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
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the combination.
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The third number:
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After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
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numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
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pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
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process right.
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This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
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Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
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mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
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The Arts of Lockpicking I
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*-----------------------------------------------*
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| LOCKPICKING I: CARS AND ASSORTED OTHER LOCKS |
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*-----------------------------------------------*
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While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
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changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and
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techniques have appeared on the scene.
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Automobiles:
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Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
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opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
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fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell
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III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the
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lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
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will not work. So:
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American Locksmith Service
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P.O. Box 26
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Culver City, CA 90230
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ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
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3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new
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car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
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postage and handling.
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Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
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people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit
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they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
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matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
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Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
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Lock Technology Corporation
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685 Main St.
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New Rochelle, NY 10801
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LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
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cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter
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and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
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for postage and handling.
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The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
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lockout tools offered by:
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Steck MFG Corporation
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1319 W. Stewart St.
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Dayton, OH 45408
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For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
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tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
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Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
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locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
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and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
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installed door lock. So:
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A MFG
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1151 Wallace St.
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Massilon, OH 44646
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Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
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the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
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using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
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If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
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Veehof Supply
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Box 361
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Storm Lake, IO 50588
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VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
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there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are
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group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
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$20.00 a set.
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Updated Lockpicking:
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For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
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most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
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are as follows:
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Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one,
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until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
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Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a
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series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks
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are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
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With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and
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stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of
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an effort than standard picking.
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Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of
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years ago and has found application with many
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locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a
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needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
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"gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
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snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
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slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped
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up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
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strike each other and separate at the shear line
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for a split second. When this happens the lock
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will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
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successful, but when it does work, the results are
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very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
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with one snap of the trigger.
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Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
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electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
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will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
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There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
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short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
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appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
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the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
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Fed Corporation
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P.O. Box 569
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Scottsdale, AR 85252
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The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less
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noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
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different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas,
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on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
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(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in
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the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
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more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
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all. It will also open group two locks (including government,
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high security, and medecos), although this can take a short time
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longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is
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about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
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that will open most locks in seven seconds?
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$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
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|
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will
|
|
open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack
|
|
model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
|
|
aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.
|
|
|
|
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
|
|
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
|
|
|
|
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
|
|
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
|
|
length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
|
|
one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a
|
|
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
|
|
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
|
|
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
|
|
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
|
|
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
|
|
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is
|
|
available from:
|
|
|
|
C.O.L. MFG
|
|
7748 W. Addison
|
|
Chicago, IL 60634
|
|
The Arts of Lockpicking II
|
|
|
|
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
|
|
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
|
|
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
|
|
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
|
|
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
|
|
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
|
|
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
|
|
|
|
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
|
|
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
|
|
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
|
|
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
|
|
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).
|
|
|
|
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
|
|
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
|
|
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
|
|
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
|
|
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
|
|
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
|
|
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
|
|
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
|
|
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
|
|
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
|
|
a lock:
|
|
______________________________
|
|
\ K
|
|
| | | | | | / E
|
|
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
|
|
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
|
|
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
|
|
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
|
|
\ E drawing)
|
|
______________________________/
|
|
|
|
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
|
|
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
|
|
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
|
|
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
|
|
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
|
|
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
|
|
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
|
|
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.
|
|
|
|
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
|
|
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
|
|
you will quickly improve with practice.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| SOLIDOX BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
|
|
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
|
|
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.
|
|
|
|
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
|
|
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
|
|
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
|
|
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
|
|
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
|
|
military applications in the WWII era.
|
|
|
|
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
|
|
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
|
|
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
|
|
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
|
|
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
|
|
|
|
Making the mixture:
|
|
|
|
[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
|
|
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
|
|
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
|
|
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
|
|
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
|
|
of sugar.
|
|
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
|
|
ratio.
|
|
|
|
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
|
|
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
|
|
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
|
|
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
|
|
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
|
|
You have been warned!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*----------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HIGH TECH REVENGE: THE BEIGEBOX |
|
|
| |
|
|
*----------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
|
|
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
|
|
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.
|
|
|
|
Making a beigebox:
|
|
|
|
Obtain an old phone, and cut off the plug on the end. Solder an
|
|
alligator clip onto the red wire, and the green wire.
|
|
|
|
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
|
|
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
|
|
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
|
|
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.
|
|
|
|
Connecting the beigebox:
|
|
|
|
Look on the outside of your victim's house, taking note of any
|
|
wires leading from a telephone pole to the exterior of their
|
|
house. Follow the wires, and find where they connect. The
|
|
telephone wire should be black, and about the width of your small
|
|
finger. You do NOT want the 220 volt house current, unless you
|
|
like having a permanent orange afro.
|
|
|
|
When the telephone wire connects to the victim's house, it should
|
|
run down their wall, and into a small beige or grey box. Some
|
|
boxes have a bolt in the dead center, and some have even gone as
|
|
far as to have a lock (smashing them open is no problem). Now,
|
|
you must open the box, and observe: you should see three bolts,
|
|
each with wires attached. Connect the two alligator clips to the
|
|
two outside bolts, and then you should get a dial tone. If you
|
|
do not get a dial tone, experiment with the connections. By the
|
|
way, don't worry about getting electrocuted; there is not enough
|
|
power in the phone lines to harm you.
|
|
|
|
After placing a few phone calls, if you really want to get even,
|
|
pull all the wires out of the box. This will result in about a
|
|
$100 dollar service charge for your enemy.
|
|
|
|
Use your imagination!
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOW TO MAKE A CO2 BOMB |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
|
|
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
|
|
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
|
|
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
|
|
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
|
|
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
|
|
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
|
|
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
|
|
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
|
|
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
|
|
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
|
|
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
|
|
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| A BETTER WAY TO MAKE THERMITE |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
|
|
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
|
|
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:
|
|
|
|
- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
|
|
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.
|
|
|
|
- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
|
|
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
|
|
conductive.
|
|
|
|
- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
|
|
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
|
|
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
|
|
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
|
|
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
|
|
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).
|
|
|
|
- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
|
|
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
|
|
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
|
|
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
|
|
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
|
|
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?
|
|
|
|
- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
|
|
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
|
|
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
|
|
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
|
|
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)
|
|
|
|
- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
|
|
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
|
|
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
|
|
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
|
|
grams.
|
|
|
|
- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
|
|
|
|
- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
|
|
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
|
|
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
|
|
burning magnesium to light the thermite.
|
|
|
|
- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
|
|
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
|
|
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
|
|
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
|
|
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
|
|
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| TOUCH EXPLOSIVES |
|
|
| |
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
|
|
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
|
|
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:
|
|
|
|
- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
|
|
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
|
|
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
|
|
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).
|
|
|
|
- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
|
|
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
|
|
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
|
|
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
|
|
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
|
|
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| LETTER BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
|
|
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.
|
|
|
|
- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
|
|
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
|
|
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...
|
|
|
|
- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
|
|
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
|
|
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
|
|
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
|
|
your bomb!!
|
|
|
|
- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
|
|
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
|
|
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
|
|
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
|
|
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
|
|
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
|
|
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
|
|
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
|
|
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
|
|
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| PAINT BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
|
|
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
|
|
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
|
|
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
|
|
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
|
|
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
|
|
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
|
|
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
|
|
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-----------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| WAYS TO SEND A CAR TO HELL |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-----------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
|
|
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
|
|
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).
|
|
|
|
- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
|
|
way through the pavement!
|
|
|
|
- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
|
|
etc.)
|
|
|
|
- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this on is good!), a ping pong ball,
|
|
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
|
|
|
|
- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
|
|
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
|
|
tailpipe.
|
|
|
|
- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
|
|
|
|
- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
|
|
|
|
- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
|
|
this:
|
|
----
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
|
|
| <
|
|
----
|
|
|
|
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
|
|
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
|
|
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
|
|
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
|
|
on the seats!)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| DO YA HATE SCHOOL? |
|
|
| |
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
|
|
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
|
|
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
|
|
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
|
|
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
|
|
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).
|
|
|
|
- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
|
|
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
|
|
|
|
- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
|
|
|
|
- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
|
|
inside if they are (gag) IBM.
|
|
|
|
- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
|
|
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
|
|
cards.
|
|
|
|
- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
|
|
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
|
|
|
|
- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
|
|
is a fascist.
|
|
|
|
- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| PHONE RELATED VANDALISM |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
|
|
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
|
|
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
|
|
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
|
|
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
|
|
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
|
|
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
|
|
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
|
|
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
|
|
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-----------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HIGHWAY RADAR JAMMING |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-----------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
|
|
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
|
|
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
|
|
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
|
|
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
|
|
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
|
|
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
|
|
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
|
|
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
|
|
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
|
|
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
|
|
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
|
|
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
|
|
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
|
|
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
|
|
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
|
|
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
|
|
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
|
|
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
|
|
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
|
|
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
|
|
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
|
|
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
|
|
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
|
|
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
|
|
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
|
|
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
|
|
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
|
|
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
|
|
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
|
|
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
|
|
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
P.S. If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of
|
|
POPULAR COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can
|
|
get all kinds of info on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds
|
|
of neat things!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| SMOKE BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!
|
|
|
|
4 parts sugar
|
|
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
|
|
|
|
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
|
|
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
|
|
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
|
|
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!
|
|
Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
|
|
|
|
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
|
|
|
|
Small amount of sugar
|
|
|
|
Small amount of water
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
|
|
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
|
|
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
|
|
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
|
|
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
|
|
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| THE EASIEST WAY TO HOTWIRE CARS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
|
|
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
|
|
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
|
|
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
|
|
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
|
|
off! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOW TO MAKE NAPALM |
|
|
| |
|
|
*--------------------*
|
|
|
|
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
|
|
|
|
- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
|
|
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.
|
|
|
|
- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
|
|
stuff lasts a long time!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOW TO MAKE A FERTILIZER BOMB |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ingredients:
|
|
|
|
- Newspaper
|
|
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
|
|
- Cotton
|
|
- Diesel fuel
|
|
|
|
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
|
|
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
|
|
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
|
|
so don't do it in an alley!! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| TENNIS BALL BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ingredients:
|
|
|
|
- Strike anywhere matches
|
|
- A tennis ball
|
|
- A nice sharp knife
|
|
- Duct tape
|
|
|
|
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
|
|
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
|
|
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
|
|
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
|
|
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*----------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| DISKETTE BOMBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*----------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
You need:
|
|
|
|
- A disk
|
|
- Scissors
|
|
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
|
|
- Clear nail polish
|
|
|
|
- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)
|
|
|
|
- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
|
|
|
|
- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
|
|
metal might spark the matchpowder!)
|
|
|
|
- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
|
|
|
|
- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
|
|
|
|
- Let it dry
|
|
|
|
- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
|
|
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).
|
|
|
|
- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
|
|
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
|
|
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
|
|
and fix THAT!!! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| UNLISTED PHONE NUMBERS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
|
|
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
|
|
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
|
|
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
|
|
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
|
|
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
|
|
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
|
|
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
|
|
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
|
|
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
|
|
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
|
|
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
|
|
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
|
|
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
|
|
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
|
|
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
|
|
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
|
|
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
|
|
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
|
|
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
|
|
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
|
|
numbers down! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| FUSES |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
|
|
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
|
|
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
|
|
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
|
|
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
|
|
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
|
|
|
|
SLOW BURNING FUSE
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
|
|
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
|
|
- Granulated sugar
|
|
|
|
Procedure:
|
|
|
|
- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
|
|
rinse with fresh water
|
|
|
|
- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
|
|
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
|
|
1 part granulated sugar
|
|
2 parts hot water
|
|
|
|
- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
|
|
|
|
- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
|
|
|
|
- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
|
|
|
|
FAST BURNING FUSE
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
-Soft cotton string
|
|
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
|
|
-shallow dish or pan
|
|
|
|
Procedure:
|
|
|
|
- moisten powder to form a paste
|
|
|
|
- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
|
|
|
|
- rub paste into string and allow to dry
|
|
|
|
- Check the burn rate!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOW TO MAKE POTASSIUM NITRATE |
|
|
| |
|
|
*-------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
|
|
things. Here is how you make it:
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
|
|
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
|
|
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
|
|
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
|
|
bottom of the bucket
|
|
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
|
|
-Shallow, heat resistant container
|
|
-2 gallons of water
|
|
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
|
|
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
|
|
-A heat source
|
|
-Paper & tape
|
|
|
|
Procedure:
|
|
|
|
- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
|
|
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom
|
|
|
|
- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom
|
|
|
|
- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
|
|
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.
|
|
|
|
- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes
|
|
|
|
- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket
|
|
|
|
- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
|
|
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
|
|
blocked.
|
|
|
|
- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
|
|
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
|
|
|
|
- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
|
|
bottom.
|
|
|
|
- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
|
|
|
|
- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so
|
|
|
|
- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
|
|
sludge in the bottom
|
|
|
|
- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
|
|
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
|
|
form
|
|
|
|
- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
|
|
it sit
|
|
|
|
- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
|
|
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
|
|
is the posassium nitrate.
|
|
|
|
Purification:
|
|
|
|
- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water
|
|
|
|
- Remove any crystals that appear
|
|
|
|
- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
|
|
to dryness.
|
|
|
|
- Spread out crystals and allow to dry
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*----------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| EXPLODING LIGHTBULBS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*----------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
-lightbulb (100w)
|
|
-socket (duh...)
|
|
-1/4 cup soap chips
|
|
-blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
|
|
-1/4 cup kerosene orgasoline
|
|
-adhesive tape
|
|
-lighter or small blowtorch
|
|
-glue
|
|
|
|
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
- Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
|
|
|
|
- Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so
|
|
that it touches the filament!
|
|
|
|
- Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or
|
|
else YOU will be the victim!!)
|
|
|
|
- Get the hell out!!
|
|
|
|
Procedure for a Napam Bulb:
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
- Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler
|
|
|
|
- Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
|
|
|
|
- Put somewhere and allow to cool
|
|
|
|
- Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue.
|
|
Remove threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the
|
|
cheap electrical igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
|
|
|
|
- Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament
|
|
back down into the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the
|
|
fluid.
|
|
|
|
- Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently
|
|
used by the victim and get the hell out!!
|
|
|
|
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*----------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| UNDER WATER IGNITERS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*----------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
|
|
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
|
|
objects!)
|
|
-Pack of matches
|
|
-1 candle
|
|
|
|
Procedure:
|
|
|
|
- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
|
|
top.
|
|
|
|
- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
|
|
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
|
|
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
|
|
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
|
|
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
|
|
TOUCH EACH OTHER!
|
|
|
|
- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
|
|
work underwater
|
|
|
|
- repeat to make as many as you want
|
|
|
|
How to use them:
|
|
|
|
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
|
|
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
|
|
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
|
|
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
|
|
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
|
|
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!
|
|
-Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOME BREW BLAST CANNON |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Materials needed:
|
|
|
|
-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
|
|
diameter
|
|
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
|
|
diameter
|
|
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
|
|
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
|
|
pipe
|
|
-5 feet of bellwire
|
|
-1 SPST rocker switch
|
|
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
|
|
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
|
|
-Electrical Tape
|
|
-One free afternoon
|
|
|
|
Procedure:
|
|
|
|
- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends
|
|
|
|
- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
|
|
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
|
|
they should screw together easily.
|
|
|
|
- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
|
|
then attach it to the level on the lighter:
|
|
|
|
/------------------------gas switch is here
|
|
V
|
|
/------
|
|
!lighter!!<---metal lever
|
|
!!!
|
|
!!
|
|
|
|
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
|
|
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
|
|
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
|
|
|
|
- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch
|
|
|
|
- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
|
|
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
|
|
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
|
|
of the top.
|
|
|
|
- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
|
|
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
|
|
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
|
|
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
|
|
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
|
|
|
|
- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
|
|
|
|
1---------------
|
|
v/
|
|
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
|
|
3 the relay
|
|
cc-------------/
|
|
oo----------------4
|
|
ii
|
|
ll----------------5
|
|
|
|
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
|
|
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
|
|
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
|
|
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
|
|
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
|
|
tiny little sparks.
|
|
|
|
- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
|
|
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
|
|
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
|
|
|
|
- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
|
|
set it off by flipping the switch.
|
|
|
|
- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
|
|
You are now ready for the first trial-run!
|
|
|
|
To Test:
|
|
|
|
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
|
|
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
|
|
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
|
|
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
|
|
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
|
|
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
|
|
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
|
|
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| CHEMICAL EQUIVALENCY LIST |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
|
|
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
|
|
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
|
|
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
|
|
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
|
|
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
|
|
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
|
|
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
|
|
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
|
|
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
|
|
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
|
|
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
|
|
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
|
|
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
|
|
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
|
|
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
|
|
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
|
|
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
|
|
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
|
|
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
|
|
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
|
|
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
|
|
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
|
|
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
|
|
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
|
|
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
|
|
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
|
|
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
|
|
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
|
|
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
|
|
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
|
|
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
|
|
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
|
|
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
|
|
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
|
|
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
|
|
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
|
|
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
|
|
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
|
|
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
|
|
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
|
|
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
|
|
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
|
|
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
|
|
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
|
|
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
|
|
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
|
|
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| PHONE TAPS |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
|
|
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
|
|
control relay to the phone line.
|
|
|
|
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
|
|
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
|
|
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
|
|
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
|
|
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
|
|
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
|
|
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
|
|
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
|
|
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
|
|
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
|
|
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
|
|
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
|
|
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
|
|
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
|
|
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
|
|
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
|
|
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
|
|
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
|
|
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
|
|
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
|
|
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
|
|
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
|
|
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
|
|
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
|
|
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
|
|
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
|
|
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
|
|
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
|
|
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
|
|
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
|
|
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
|
|
|
|
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
|
|
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
|
|
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
|
|
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
|
|
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
|
|
cubes fall away unnoticed.
|
|
|
|
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
|
|
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
|
|
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
|
|
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
|
|
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).
|
|
|
|
Here is the schematic:
|
|
-------)!----)!(------------->
|
|
)!(
|
|
Cap ^ )!(
|
|
)!(
|
|
)!(
|
|
)!(
|
|
^^^^^---)!(------------->
|
|
^ 100K
|
|
!
|
|
! <Input
|
|
|
|
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
|
|
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
|
|
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
|
|
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
|
|
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
|
|
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
|
|
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
|
|
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
|
|
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
|
|
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
|
|
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
|
|
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
|
|
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
|
|
|
|
------^^^^^^^^^------------
|
|
---------
|
|
RELAY^^
|
|
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
|
|
|
|
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
|
|
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
|
|
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
|
|
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
|
|
reading.
|
|
|
|
For more info:
|
|
|
|
BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
|
|
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
|
|
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
|
|
Press.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| HOW TO MAKE A LANDMINE |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
|
|
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
|
|
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
|
|
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
|
|
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
|
|
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
|
|
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
|
|
|
|
switch-----------battery
|
|
\ /
|
|
\ /
|
|
\ /
|
|
\ /
|
|
solar igniter
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
explosive
|
|
|
|
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
|
|
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
|
|
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
|
|
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
|
|
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
|
|
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
|
|
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
|
|
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
|
|
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
|
|
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| A DIFFERENT KIND OF MOLITOFF COCKTAIL |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Here is how you do it:
|
|
|
|
- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full
|
|
|
|
- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight
|
|
|
|
- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
|
|
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
|
|
bottle.
|
|
|
|
- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
|
|
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
|
|
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| PHONE SYSTEMS TUTORIAL |
|
|
| |
|
|
*------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
|
|
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
|
|
telephone numbering plan.
|
|
|
|
North American Numbering Plan
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
|
|
|
|
A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
|
|
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
|
|
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #
|
|
|
|
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
|
|
code. It is in the format of:
|
|
|
|
Area Code Telephone #
|
|
--------- -----------
|
|
|
|
N*X NXX-XXXX
|
|
|
|
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
|
|
* = the digit 0 or 1
|
|
X = a digit from 0 to 9
|
|
|
|
Area Codes
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
|
|
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
|
|
|
|
510 - TWX (USA)
|
|
610 - TWX (Canada)
|
|
700 - New Service
|
|
710 - TWX (USA)
|
|
800 - WATS
|
|
810 - TWX (USA)
|
|
900 - DIAL-IT Services
|
|
910 - TWX (USA)
|
|
|
|
The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
|
|
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
|
|
split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
|
|
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).
|
|
|
|
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
|
|
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
|
|
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
|
|
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
|
|
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
|
|
an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
|
|
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
|
|
|
|
If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
|
|
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
|
|
to hack your way onto this one!
|
|
|
|
700:
|
|
|
|
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
|
|
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
|
|
works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
|
|
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
|
|
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
|
|
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
|
|
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
|
|
special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
|
|
Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
|
|
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
|
|
it to. Neat, huh?
|
|
|
|
800:
|
|
|
|
This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
|
|
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
|
|
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
|
|
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
|
|
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
|
|
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
|
|
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
|
|
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
|
|
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
|
|
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
|
|
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.
|
|
|
|
Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
|
|
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
|
|
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
|
|
located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
|
|
at a NY CO.
|
|
|
|
800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
|
|
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
|
|
this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
|
|
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
|
|
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the #
|
|
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
|
|
available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
|
|
hours of calls made to their #.
|
|
|
|
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
|
|
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
|
|
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
|
|
are in the format of:
|
|
|
|
(800) *XXX-XXXX
|
|
|
|
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
|
|
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
|
|
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
|
|
call.
|
|
|
|
Remember:
|
|
|
|
INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER
|
|
|
|
900:
|
|
|
|
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
|
|
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
|
|
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
|
|
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!
|
|
|
|
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
|
|
|
|
CO CODES
|
|
~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
These identify the switching office where the call is to be
|
|
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
|
|
|
|
555 - directory assistance
|
|
844 - time. These are now in!
|
|
936 - weather the 976 exchange
|
|
950 - future services
|
|
958 - plant test
|
|
959 - plant test
|
|
970 - plant test (temporary)
|
|
976 - DIAL-IT services
|
|
|
|
Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
|
|
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
|
|
|
|
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
|
|
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
|
|
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
|
|
conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.
|
|
|
|
950:
|
|
|
|
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
|
|
|
|
1000 - SPC
|
|
1022 - MCI Execunet
|
|
1033 - US Telephone
|
|
1044 - Allnet
|
|
1066 - Lexitel
|
|
1088 - SBS Skyline
|
|
|
|
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
|
|
phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
|
|
the introduction of Equal Access
|
|
|
|
Plant Tests:
|
|
|
|
These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.
|
|
|
|
976:
|
|
|
|
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
|
|
bbs's have listings of these numbers.
|
|
|
|
N11 codes:
|
|
----------
|
|
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
|
|
most areas.
|
|
|
|
011 - international dialing prefix
|
|
211 - coin refund operator
|
|
411 - directory assistance
|
|
611 - repair service
|
|
811 - business office
|
|
911 - EMERGENCY
|
|
|
|
International Dialing
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
|
|
numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
|
|
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #
|
|
|
|
In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
|
|
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
|
|
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
|
|
Dialing (IDDD).
|
|
|
|
The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
|
|
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
|
|
code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
|
|
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
|
|
country codes, but here I give you a few:
|
|
|
|
1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
|
|
20 - Egypt
|
|
258 - Mozambique
|
|
34 - Spain
|
|
49 - Germany
|
|
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
|
|
7 - USSR
|
|
81 - Japan
|
|
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
|
|
|
|
If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
|
|
generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
|
|
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
|
|
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
|
|
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
|
|
then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
|
|
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
|
|
the bad news!)
|
|
|
|
Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
|
|
calling ships:
|
|
|
|
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
|
|
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
|
|
872 - Marisat (Indian)
|
|
|
|
International Switching:
|
|
------------------------
|
|
|
|
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
|
|
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
|
|
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
|
|
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
|
|
|
|
182 - White Plains, NY
|
|
183 - New York, NY
|
|
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
|
|
185 - Orlando, Fl
|
|
186 - Oakland, CA
|
|
187 - Denver, CO
|
|
188 - New York, NY
|
|
|
|
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
|
|
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
|
|
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
|
|
for signaling.
|
|
|
|
Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
|
|
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
*---------------------------------*
|
|
| |
|
|
| PHONE SYSTEMS TUTORIAL: PART II |
|
|
| |
|
|
*---------------------------------*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
|
|
heirarchy, & switching equipment.
|
|
|
|
Operators
|
|
~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
There are many types of operators in the network and the more
|
|
common ones will be discussed.
|
|
|
|
TSPS Operator:
|
|
|
|
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
|
|
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
|
|
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
|
|
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:
|
|
|
|
1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
|
|
calls
|
|
|
|
2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
|
|
|
|
3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
|
|
|
|
4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
|
|
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
|
|
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
|
|
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
|
|
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
|
|
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).
|
|
|
|
<I once has an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator
|
|
came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
|
|
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
|
|
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
|
|
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
|
|
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
|
|
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
|
|
|
|
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
|
|
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
|
|
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
|
|
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
|
|
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.
|
|
|
|
INWARD operator:
|
|
|
|
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
|
|
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
|
|
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
|
|
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
|
|
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
|
|
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
|
|
a future file).
|
|
|
|
DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:
|
|
|
|
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
|
|
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
|
|
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
|
|
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.
|
|
|
|
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
|
|
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
|
|
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
|
|
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
|
|
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
|
|
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
|
|
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
|
|
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
|
|
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
|
|
talked out of information through the process of "social
|
|
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
|
|
|
|
<Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once
|
|
bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
|
|
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
|
|
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
|
|
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
|
|
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
|
|
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
|
|
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)
|
|
|
|
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
|
|
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
|
|
|
|
CN/A operators:
|
|
|
|
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
|
|
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
|
|
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
|
|
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
|
|
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
|
|
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
|
|
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
|
|
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
|
|
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
|
|
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A
|
|
|
|
INTERCEPT Operator:
|
|
|
|
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
|
|
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
|
|
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
|
|
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
|
|
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
|
|
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
|
|
they usually understand very little English anyway.
|
|
|
|
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
|
|
|
|
OTHER Operators:
|
|
|
|
And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
|
|
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
|
|
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
|
|
purpose or another in the network.
|
|
|
|
Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
|
|
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
|
|
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.
|
|
|
|
By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
|
|
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
|
|
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
|
|
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.
|
|
|
|
Office Hierarchy
|
|
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
|
|
|
|
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
|
|
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
|
|
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
|
|
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
|
|
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
|
|
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
|
|
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
|
|
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).
|
|
|
|
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
|
|
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
|
|
|
|
Class Name Abb # Existing
|
|
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
|
|
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
|
|
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
|
|
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
|
|
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
|
|
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
|
|
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
|
|
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
|
|
> 6 RSU RSU n/a
|
|
|
|
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
|
|
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
|
|
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
|
|
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
|
|
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
|
|
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
|
|
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
|
|
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
|
|
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
|
|
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
|
|
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
|
|
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
|
|
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
|
|
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
|
|
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).
|
|
|
|
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
|
|
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
|
|
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
|
|
to really screw up the network].
|
|
|
|
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
|
|
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
|
|
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:
|
|
|
|
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
|
|
-------------------------------- ---
|
|
Dallas 4 ESS 214
|
|
Wayne, PA 215
|
|
Denver 4T 303
|
|
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
|
|
St. Louis 4T 314
|
|
Rockdale, GA 404
|
|
Pittsburgh 4E 412
|
|
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
|
|
|
|
That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
|
|
Cookbook! Have fun! -Jolly Roger-
|
|
|
|
|
|
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
|
|
^ ___ ^
|
|
( (-----) | | | ___ )
|
|
\ | |__| |__ ( |\ | |\ /
|
|
\ | | | | | | \ | | \ /
|
|
\ | | | |___ |__ | \ | | ) /
|
|
\ | | \| | / /
|
|
\ (___ | | |/ /
|
|
\ /
|
|
\ /
|
|
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/
|
|
|
|
|
|
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
|
|
|
|
Another file downloaded from: NIRVANAnet(tm)
|
|
|
|
& the Temple of the Screaming Electron Jeff Hunter 510-935-5845
|
|
Burn This Flag Zardoz 408-363-9766
|
|
realitycheck Poindexter Fortran 510-527-1662
|
|
Lies Unlimited Mick Freen 415-583-4102
|
|
My Dog Bit Jesus Suzanne D'Fault 510-658-8078
|
|
New Dork Sublime Demented Pimiento 415-566-0126
|
|
|
|
Specializing in conversations, obscure information, high explosives,
|
|
arcane knowledge, political extremism, diverse sexuality,
|
|
insane speculation, and wild rumours. ALL-TEXT BBS SYSTEMS.
|
|
|
|
Full access for first-time callers. We don't want to know who you are,
|
|
where you live, or what your phone number is. We are not Big Brother.
|
|
|
|
"Raw Data for Raw Nerves"
|
|
|
|
X-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-X
|