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The Big Book of Chemical, Powder, and Thermonuclear Explosives
or:
How to Blow up Things
Compiled by: Mastermind
This file distributed by:
`@*-*-*-*THE RAZOR'S EDGE BBS*-*-*-*@'
Lots of neat-o files like this one
(203)675-1328
24 Hours A Day, 7 Days a Week
Sysop: Harold Richards (Harry Dick)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction........................................1
Chapter 1- Door Switch and Explosive................2
Chapter 2- Chemical Explosives......................5
1. Carbide Bomb................................5
2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower..................5
3. Unstable Solid Explosion....................5
4. Poisonous Gas Bomb..........................6
5. Napalm......................................6
6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion.......7
7. Bolt Bomb...................................7
8. Mine........................................7
9. Chlorine Bomb...............................8
10. Poison BB Gun...............................8
11. Simple Plastique............................8
12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer......................9
Chapter 3- Plastic Explosive........................10
Chapter 4- Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness.......13
1. Smoke Bomb 1 (Chemical).....................13
2. Smoke Bomb 2 (Powder).......................13
3. Stink Bomb..................................13
4. Imitation Marijuana (just for fun)..........13
Chapter 5- How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder).15
Chapter 6- Gunpowder Explosives.....................21
1. Arrow Rocket Launcher.......................21
2. Special Effects Explosion...................21
3. Tennis Ball Bomb............................21
4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher...................21
Chapter 7- Making a an H-Bomb.......................23
1. Getting the Ingredients.....................23
2. Stuffing your A-Bomb........................27
3. Putting Your H-Bomb together................29
4. What to do with Your Bomb...................30
Technical Information...............................34
Introduction
I made this using various pieces of information collected from a
number of BBS's and people. I am only saying this because I expect a
lot of people to read this and say "Hell, I read this before!" Well, I
didn't write the majority of this stuff, but I did put in into a common
format and correct the spelling. If you read all of this, and you still
think that I didn't really do any work, well SCREW YOU!
If ANYONE has any other explosive information that you think should be
included in this book, send a message to MASTERMIND on the Razor's Edge BBS.
MOST OF THIS IS UNTESTED AND I HAVE NO PROOF OF VALIDITY!
I wouldn't try any of this and I take no responsibility for misuse
of this PURELY informational document.
Then again, if you make an atomic weapon, none of us have to worry
about being arrested, do we?
Door Switch and Explosive
It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit (details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"Don't be such a jerk, or the
next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his
facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks!
Assembly of the versatile, economic, and effective terrorist kit:
The parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector
step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be
held together by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or
car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart
and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall
to the closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If
all this is confusing take a look at the schematic below.)
Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the
positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and
one negative terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only
combine to create 6 volts, the increase in amperage is
necessary to activate the solar ignitor quickly and
effectively.
Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of
the solar ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar
ignitor back to the open position on the relay.
Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor
into the rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I --- (9 VOLT)
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)
Chemical Explosives
1. Carbide Bomb
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain
some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps
and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of
this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in cutting
torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If
the gas touched a spark or whatever then KAABOOM! A very big kabom too.
CAUTION: extreme pressure is built up when the gas starts. This may be
enough to blow it up without the flame. About 5 rocks and a little
water in a rubbing alcohol bottle with a hole in the top is about he
equivalent of an M-80. I haven't tried a full bottle yet though...
2. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
For this one, all you need is a car, a sparkplug, ignition wire
and a switch. Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches
of the tailpipe by drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily.
Attach the wire (this is regular insulated wire) to one side of the
switch and to the spark plug. The other side of the switch is attached
to the positive terminal on the battery. With the car running, simply
hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again be careful that no
one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20 feet!!!
3. Unstable Solid Explosion
First, get some Iodine crystals and some filter paper(coffee
filter). put the filter in a funnel over a box or the ground (NOT YOUR
SINK!), put the iodine crystals in it and pour ammonia SLOWLY over it.
When saturated, scrape out of filter(carefully) and place in some cute
little place.Such as stairs, sidewalk(if you want to kill someone,
put it in their gas tank). It'l dry and become so unstable that if you
let even a GENTLE fart on it it will blow your 'nads to Jersey.THIS
STUFF IS VERY UNSTABLE, ESPECIALLY WHEN DRY!
4. Poisonous Gas Bomb
Here's a fun thing to do at a party or other happy occasion. You
get some hydrochloric acid (also known as muriatic acid) from a store
that sells swimming pool supplies. (hydrochloric acid is used to kill
algae in pools) Mix it with gasoline, then pour it into a bottle and
cap it tightly. When you are ready to use this, you simply open it up
and drop in a couple of chunks(10cm) of aluminum cut from a pipe or
slab. It should take a few minutes to react (if you stored it in a
TIGHTLY capped bottle),and when it does, you better be out of there
because first-it bursts the bottle, producing a large,dark cloud of
poison gas. Then,if there is anyone is smoking, the whole room should
literally explode and become a ball of fire.
5. Napalm
Napalm can be made by mixing one part soap (either soap flakes or
shredded bar soap) with one part gasoline. The problem with this is
that the gasoline must be heated so the soap will melt. Take a can and
mix up a lot of gas and oil. Totally soak a tennis ball in it
overnight, and take it out the next day. Wipe it off (don't worry,the
stuff will soak in.)then tie a string around it and allow about 3 feet
of slack. Light the ball, and watch out!! Walk down the street swinging
the fireball over your head,and you have several options..
6. Electrically Activated Gell Explosion
Ok, you will need:
1) 6-volt battery
2) Two wires
3) 3 parts gasoline
4) 2 parts Vaseline
Mix the gas with the Vaseline and let it gel. This should take 1-
3 days depending on the amount. After it has gelled stick the ends of
two preferably LONG wires in it. Put the other ends of the wires on the
+ and -ends of the battery. Of course, you might want to use a switch
or something.
7. Bolt Bomb
What you need:
2 bolts (same size)
1 nut (fits bolts)
Some matches
1) Scrape the tips off the matches (the type that light anywhere)
2) Screw the nut onto a bolt so that less than half the nut is
actually touching the bolt.
3) Place match tips in hole formed by nut
4) Screw the second bolt onto the free end of the nut, trapping the
match tips between the 2 bolts
5) Throw it far (and run like hell), upon impact, the match tips
will explode, sending both bolts flying in opposite directions.
It can cause serious damage if one hits you!
8. Mine
What you will need :
1 M-80 (or something similar)
3 wires
1 9-volt battery
1 solar igniter
1 pressure switch
Directions:
1) Connect wires from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery.
2) Replace fuse on M-80 with solar igniter
3) Bury M-80 (and battery) under a light coat of dirt
4) Place switch in enemy's path, uncovered, but not visible.
5) Wait.... and BOOM!
Note: For best results, place M-80 3 feet behind switch, there is a
slight delay before the explosion occurs and we wouldn't want him to
miss it... would we!
9. Chlorine Bomb
First get 2 beer bottles with caps or 2 baby food bottles with
tops may be used then fill 1 bottle with chlorine (Don't mix them
directly together, as doing so will result in an irreversable state of
death.) then cap tightly. Next fill other bottle with gas then cap
tightly. Next tape both bottles together then throw when bottles break
and the shit mixes it's gonna make a huge explosion just like a bomb!
10. Poisonous BB Gun
Take about 1 cup of bleach and mix it with one cup vinegar and one
teaspoon of baking soda. Soak the BB's in this and go hunting.
Editors note: This is VERY painful, and not recommended
11. Simple Plastique (A more detailed explanation is the next chapter)
Ingredients:
one gallon of BLEACH
a heat source (fire,stove,etc)
white gasoline (avalable at camping supply stores)
a aluminum pan
distilled water
plastic bowl
Vaselene
wax
solar, or wick igniters
POTASSIUM CHLORATE (available at any grocery store substitute.)
a hydrometer
First empty the bleach into the pan, and begin heating it. Add
PRECICLY 63 grams of Potassium Chlorate. Boil this until it reads 1.3
on the hydrometer. Remove, and place in a cool place, such as in a
refrigerator. Skim off the crystals and save them. Do it all again so
you have two sets of crystals. Mix EXACTLY 53 grams od crystals to
EXACTLY 100 milliliters of distilled water. Heat and save the crystals.
Powder them finely, and then heat it to dry off the moisture. Mix 1
part of this with 5 parts vaseline, 5 parts wax, and 5 parts gasoline.
Break off a piece. A 2.9 gram piece will have the exlposion of one
stick of TNT!!!
12. Oven Cleaner Vaporizer
Here's a neat trick by the author. Take about 3 feet of aluminum
foil, and spray a hell of a lot of oven clear on it. Wrap of the foil
into a loose ball and chuck it in an enclosed space, such as a locker,
car etc etc. It will fumigate the area and make it impossible to
breathe or see. WARNING: It will also heat up quite a bit, to the point
where it burns to touch. It probably won't ignite anything, but I
wouldn't risk it.
Plastic Explosive
This explosive is a phenol derivative. It is toxic and the
explosive compounds made from picric acid are poisonous if inhaled,
ingested, or handled and absorbed through the skin. The toxicity of
this explosive restricts its use due to the fact that over exposure in
most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death if
immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than
it's cousin. It's the first explosive used militarily and was adopted
in 1888 as an artillery shell filler. Originally this explosive was
derived from coal tar but thanks to modern chemistry you can make this
explosive easily in approximately three hours from acetylsalicylic
acid.(aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in
warm sulfuric acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which
nitrates the purified aspirin. The whole mixture is then drowned in
water and filtered to obtain the final product. This explosive is
called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to ensure that this
explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form
dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals except tin and
aluminum. These salts are a primary explosive and are super sensitive.
They will also cause the detonation of the picric acid.
Next needed is aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but buffered
brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistency.
To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this powder
in methyl alcohol and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will
dissolve. Filter this powder out of the alcohol. Again wash this powder
that was filtered out of the alcohol with more alcohol but with a
lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter the remaining
powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow it
to evaporate in a pyre dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will
be a surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish.
Take forty grams of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals
and dissolve them in 150 ml. of sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity
1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals. This heating can be done
in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set on 150 deg. F.
and filled with a good cooking oil.
When all the crystals have dissolved in the sulfuric acid take
the beaker, that you've done all this dissolving in (600 ml.), out of
the oil bath. This next step will need to be done with a very good
ventilation system. It is a good idea to do any chemistry work such as
the whole procedure and any procedure in this book with good
ventilation or do it outside. Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium
nitrate or 77 g. of potassium nitrate to the acid mixture in the beaker
very slowly in small portions with vigorous stirring. A red gas
(nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should be avoided. The
mixture is likely to foam up and the addition should be stopped until
the foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in
the beaker. When the sodium or potassium nitrate has been added the
mixture is allowed to cool somewhat (30- 40 deg. C.). The solution
should then be dumped slowly into twice it's volume of crushed ice and
water. Brilliant yellow crystals will form in the water. These should
be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling, distilled water.
Allow this to cool and then filter the crystals out of the water.
These crystals are very, very pure trinitrophenol. Place these
crystals in a pyrex dish, put that in an oil bath and heat it to 80
deg. C. and keep it there for 2 hours. This temperature is best
maintained and checked with a thermometer. Powder the crystals in small
quantities to a face powder consistency. Combine these crystals (by
weight) with 10% wax and 5% Vaseline which you should heat to melting
temperature and poured into the crystals. The mixing is best done by
kneading together with gloved hands. This explosive should have a
useful plasticity range of 0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should
be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic to handle but simply made from
common ingredients and is suitable for most demolition work requiring a
moderately high detonation velocity. It is very suitable for shaped
charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good an explosive
as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to make.
Again this explosive is very toxic and
should be treated with great care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED,
BREATHING DUST AND FUMES. AVOID ANY CHANCE OF INGESTION.
AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT
WORTH IT. IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, SHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE
BUT WITH ANY HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE IS NOT RECOMMENDED AND
EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE CREATED AS NEEDED.
A V O I D C O N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S
E X E P T T I N A N D A L U M I N U M ! ! !
Smoke Bombs and other Harmlessness
1. Smoke Bomb 1
Ingredients:
1 One tin can such as a soup can
4 parts sugar
6 parts Epsom salt
Mix together. Put under a low flame such as a lighter or a small
fire. Let it sit over the fire until it starts to gel. Take it off, and
let it sit for a while until it hardens. Then you drop a match
in it or something then run because four pounds of this thing will
fill a city block!
2. Smoke Bomb 2
At least 3 "D" size model rocket engines
4 tissues
A cloth
A hammer
First strip off all of the paper on the engines. Then wrap the
engines in the cloth. Crush the engines with a hammer (try not to make
sparks, or you'll ruin a good hammer and most of your face). Take this
powder and wrap in a tissue. Light it, and it will make smoke.
3. Stink Bomb
By weight:
1 part potassium chlorate
1 part sugar
1 part formaldyhyde
Mix this up, IT REEKS. Keep in a waterproof container.
4. Imitation Marijuana
Marijuana Homemade, but it works!. First get a banana. Take the
peel off (eat the insides), and dry the peel it out until it's crumbly.
Crush it into small chunks. Believe me, it works.(Not as good as the
real stuff, but if you're too cheap to buy it...)
How to make Explosive Powders(gunpowder)
All information contained in this file is purely for academic
study. I am not responsible for any injuries/damages arising from the
use of this information. Good luck.
Flash Powder is a chemical mixture that burns extremely fast.
The mixture burns so fast that it appears to burn instantly, producing
a bright flash of light.
Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts
larger than 4 ounces even when it is not contained. In very small
amounts flash powder will produce a very loud explosion when contained,
even in a container made of just a few layers of paper.
Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that
will burn and an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because
it is cheaper. Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The
oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate, Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide,
Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate, Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium
Chlorateassium Permanganate, and any combination of the above. All the
chlorates (and the Permanganate) are friction and impact sensitive.
Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the Chlorates.
All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder,
about 400 mil or smaller. 400 mil is about like common kitchen
type flour.
Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has
a particle size of 400 mil for 98% of the aluminum material. The other
2% is larger than 400 mil. There are other aluminum powders that are
equal to or better than Black German Aluminum. Aluminum Pyro Powder is
also a brand name. The particle size is 70% 400 mil. the other 30% is
larger than 400 mil.
FLASH POWDER FORMULAS-
[1] This formula is one of the best. It produces a very very extremely
loud explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture
absorbent. Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate
or Potassium Chlorate can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but
then it becomes very sensitive to friction and impact. 4 ounces of
this mixture will produce an explosion equal to a stick of dynamite.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder (98% -400) 1 oz.
[2] This formula produces an extremely loud explosion that is almost as
good as #1. This is what almost all M-80s, firecrackers, etc. are made
with.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz.
[3] This formula is equal to #2 and is not sensitive to
friction or impact.
Bariue Peroxide 9 oz.
50%/50% magnesium/aluminum
powder (98% -200 mil) 1 oz.
[4] This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a
very bright flash. This is what used to be used for the photo
flash for the old box type cameras about 100 years ago.
Barium Nitrate 3 oz.
Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 4 oz.
[5] This formula works very good. It is not very impact or
friction sensitive. It produces a very, very loud explosion.
Potassium perchlorate contains 46.1914 percent oxygen. Almost
equal to #2. Sulfur can be added to increase quantity of powder
without loosing too much power.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz.
[5] This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage
of being moisture absorbent and is very impact and friction
sensitive. Sodium Chlorate Contains 45.0937 percent oxygen.
Produces a very, very loud explosion.
Sodium Chlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder (70% -400) 1 oz.
[7] This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive
to friction and impact and could explode during the
construction of any explosive device. Potassium Chlorate
contains 39.1664 percent oxygen. This formula produces an
explosion almost equal to #5 and #6. Used in the manufacture
of toy cap pistol caps.
Potassium Chlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
[8] This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact,
friction, and static electricity, even more sensitive than
#7. Extremely dangerous. Will ignite even when wet.
Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz.
Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz.
Sulfur .3 oz.
Calcium Carbonate .3 oz.
[9] This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It
is slightly friction and impact sensitive. Potassium
Permanganate contains 40.4691 percent oxygen. This formula
will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.
Potassium Permanganate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
[10] This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited
in a paper tube. A much louder explosion is produced when it
is ignited in a very strong container. It is impact and
friction sensitive.
Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
[11] This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact
and friction sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper
tube.
Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
[12] No information is available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 6 oz.
Antimony Sulfide 3 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
13. No information is available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Gallic acid 2.2 oz.
Red gum 0.3 oz.
CAUTION
-------
The mixture of any Fhlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely
sensitive to friction and percussion and explodes with great violence.
Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium
nitrate explosives since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these
two substances are brought into contact, explodes. When mixing
Chlorates with Sulfur, crush all the chemicals separately. Then place
all the chemicals in a bag to be mixed. Hang the bag from the ceiling,
pole or a tree limb. A long pole is then attached to the bottom of the
bag. The long pole is inserted through a wall and the operator stands
behind the wall for safety. The operator can then shake the bag
safely. 4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as a
stick of dynamite. One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks
of dynamite. 8 ounces of powder will make 100 M-80's if each contains
1/2 teaspoon of flash powder. M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon are almost as
loud but do not have quite the destructive force as the ones with 1/2
teaspoon of flash powder.
CHEMICALS
---------
Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware
stores, drug stores, lumber yards, plumbing supply, cement companies
and many other stores.
Sodium Chlorate- O2 solid oxygen pellets are made of about 90%
sodium chlorate. O2 solid pellets are used in
small workshop torches.
Potassium Nitrate- Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles.
Also sold at farmers co-op stores.
Sulfur- Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores, and lawn
and garden centers
Aluminum Powder- Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores.
Aluminum powder can be found in radiator leaks
Sodium Nitrate- Sold powder. Sold by paint stores and auto
parts stores.
Antimony Sulfide.- Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.
Potassium Permanganate- It is used for water treatment. Check your
phone book for water treatment equipment.
Ammonium Nitrate- Can be bought from any farmers' co-op or
lawn and garden center.
Red Phosphorus- The white tip on wooden matches contains red
Phosphorus.
Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical
supplies. They will have almost all of the chemicals you need
in large quantities. If you intend to make M-80's I strongly
recommend sending a SASE to this company asking for their
catalog.
FULL AUTO
P.O. Box 1881
Murfreesboro, TN 37133
Gunpowder Explosives
1. Arrow Rocket Launcher
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an
aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade
FFFF). Then glue a shotshell primer into the hole where the ferrule
used to be. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go!
Make sure no one is nearby. Little shreds of aluminum go all over the
place!!
2. Special Effects Explosion
2 teaspoons zinc powder
1 teaspoon Potassium Chlorate
3 teaspoons charcoal dust
2 teaspoons Strontium Nitrate
1/3 teaspoon Sulphur
Here's a good terrorist explosive that is too good to be true.
It's more powerful than most *BLASTING* powders, lots of smoke, and a
nice red flame. I got a big whiff of the smoke and it gave me a
headache for about three hours. Great for parties.
3. Tennis Ball Bomb
Take a tennis ball, and cut a slit in the top. Fill halfway up
with sand, then fill up the remaining half with gunpowder. Give it a
little lighter fluid, then shake well to mix the powders. Causes
sand to shoot out with great force.
4. Tennis Ball Bomb Launcher
Easy. Take 5 or six coffee cans, but out the bottoms except for
one, and tie them together with duct tape. Fill the bottom of the can
with the powder from 3 or 4 large model rocket engines. Drill a hole in
the bottom of the can and insert a wick. Put a tennis ball inside the
can, light, and run. For added effectiveness, use a tennis ball made
like the one in number 2 above. Then again, it might just blow up in
your face.
Making a Atom Bomb
PART 1- GETTING THE INGREDIENTS
Uranium is the basic ingredient of the A-bomb. When a uranium atom's
nucleus splits apart it releases a tremendous amount of energy (for its
size), and it emits neutrons which go on to split other nearby uranium
nuclei, releasing more energy in what is called a 'chain reaction'.
(When atoms split matter is converted into energy according to
Einstein's equation E=mc2. What better way to mark his centennial than
with your own atomic fireworks?) There are two kinds (isotopes) of
uranium. One is the rare U-235 (used in bombs) and other is the more
common (heavier) but useless U-238. Natural uranium contains less than
1 percent U-235 and in order to be usable in bombs it has to be
'enriched' to 90 percent U-235 and only 10 percent U-238. Plutonium-
239 can also be used in bombs as a substitute for U-235. Ten pounds of
U-235 (or slightly less plutonium) is all that is necessary for a bomb.
Less than ten pounds won't give you a critical mass. So purifying or
enriching naturally occurring uranium is likely to be your first big
hurdle. It is infinitely easierto steal ready-to-use enriched uranium
or plutonium than to enrich some yourself. And stealing uranium is not
as hard as it sounds.
There are at least three sources of enriched uranium or plutonium.
Enriched uranium is manufactured at a gaseous-diffusion plant in
Portsmouth Ohio. From there it is shipped in 10 liter bottles by
airplane and trucks to conversion plants that turn it into uranium
oxide or uranium metal. Each 10 liter bottle contains 7 kilograms of
U-235, and there are 20 bottles to a typical shipment. Conversion
facilities exist at Hematite Missouri Apollo Pennsylvania and Erwin
Tennessee. The Kerr-McGee plant at Crescent Oklahoma where Karen
Silkwood worked was a conversion plant that 'lost' 40 lbs of plutonium.
Enriched uranium can be stolen from these plants or from fuel
fabricating plants like those in New Haven San Diego or Lynchburg
Virginia. (A former Kerr-McGee supervisor James V. Smith when asked at
the Silkwood trial if there were any security precautions at the plant
to prevent theft testified that 'There were none of any kind,no guards
no fences no nothing.') Plutonium can be obtained from places like
United Nuclear in Pawling,New York, Nuclear Fuel Services in Erwin,
Tennessee, General Electric in Pleasanton,California, Westinghouse in
Cheswick,Pennsylvania, Nuclear Materials and Equipment Corporation
(NUMEC) in Leechburg,Pennsylvania and plants in Hanford,Washington and
Morris,Illinois. According to Rolling Stone magazine the Isrealis were
involved in the theft of plutonium from NUMEC. Finally you can steal
enriched uranium or plutonium while it's en route from conversion
plants to fuel fabricating plants. It is usually transported (by air or
truck) in the form of uranium oxide, (a brownish powder resembling
instant coffee) or as a metal coming in small chunks called 'broken
buttons.' Both forms are shipped in small cans stacked in 5-inch
cylinders braced with welded struts in the center of ordinary 55-gallon
steel drums. The drums weigh about 100 pounds and are clearly marked
'Fissile Material' or 'Danger- Plutonium.' A typical shipment might go
from the enrichment plant at Portsmouth Ohio to the conversion plant in
Hematite Missouri then to Kansas City by truck where it would be flown
to Los Angeles and then trucked down to the General Atomic plant in San
Diego. The plans for the General Atomic plant are on file at the
Nuclear Regulatory Commission's reading room at 1717 H Street NW
Washington. A Xerox machine is provided for the convenience of the
public. If you can't get hold of any enriched uranium you'll have to
settle for commercial grade(20 percent U-235). This can be stolen from
university reactors of a type called TRIGA Mark II -where security is
even more casual than at commercial plants. If stealing uranium seems
too tacky you can buy it. Unenriched uranium is available at any
chemical supply house for $23 a pound. Commercial grade (3 to 20
percent enriched) is available for $40 a pound from Gulf Atomic.
You'll have to enrich it further yourself. Quite frankly this can be
something of a pain in the ass. You'll need to start with a little
more than 50 pounds of commercial grade uranium (it's only 20 percent
U-235 at best and you need 10 pounds of U-235 so...). But with a little
kitchen table chemistry you'll be able to convert the solid uranium
oxide you've purchased into a liquid form. Once you've done that You'll
be able to separate the U-235 you'll need from the U-238. First pour a
few gallons of concentrated hydroflouric acid into your uranium oxide
converting it to uranium tetraflouride. (Safety note- Concentrated
hydroflouric acid is so corrosive that it will eat its way through
glass, so store it only in plastic. Used 2-gallon plastic milk
containers will do.) Now you have to convert your uranium tetraflouride
to uranium hexaflouride, (the gaseous form of uranium) which is
convenient for separating out the isotope U-235 from U-238. To get the
hexaflouride form bubble flourine gas into your container of uranium
tetraflouride. Flourine is available in pressurized tanks from
chemical-supply firms. Be careful how you use it though because
flourine is several times more deadly than chlorine the classic World
War I poison gas. Chemists recommend that you carry out this step under
a stove hood (the kind used to remove unpleasant cooking odors). If
you've done your chemistry right you should now have a generous supply
of uranium hexaflouride ready for enriching. In the old horse-and-
buggy days of A-bomb manufacture the enrichment was carried out by
passing the uranium hexaflouride through hundreds of miles of pipes,
tubes, and membranes until the U-235 was eventually separated from the
U-238. This gaseous-diffusion process, as it was called, is difficult
time consuming and expensive. Gaseous-diffusion plants cover hundreds
of acres and cost in the neighborhood of $2-billion each. So forget it.
There are easier and cheaper ways to enrich your uranium. First
transform the gas into a liquid by subjecting it to pressure. You can
use a bicycle pump for this. Then make a simple home centrifuge Fill a
standard-size bucket one quarter full of liquid uranium hexaflouride.
Attach a six-foot rope to the bucket handle. Now swing the rope (and
attached bucket) around your head as fast as possible. Keep this up
for about 45 minutes. Slow down gradually and very gently put the
bucket on the floor. The U-235 (which is lighter) will have risen to
the top, where it can be skimmed off like cream. Repeat this step
until you have the required 10 pounds of uranium. (Safety note-Don't
put all your enriched uranium hexaflouride in one bucket. Use at least
two or three buckets and keep them in separate corners of the room.
This will prevent the premature build-up of a critical mass.) Now it's
time to convert your enriched uranium back to metal form This is easily
enough accomplished by spooning several ladlefuls of calcium (available
in tablet form from your drugstore) into each bucket of uranium. The
calcium will react with the uranium hexafloride to produce calcium
flouride, a colorless salt which can be easily be separated from your
pure enriched uranium metal. A few precautions- Uranium is not
dangerously radioactive in the amounts you'll be handling. If you plan
to make more than one bomb it might be wise to wear gloves and a lead
apron (the kind you can buy in dental supply stores). Plutonium is one
of the most toxic substances known. If inhaled, even one-thousandth of
a gram can cause massive fibrosis of the lungs (a painful way to go).
Even a millionth of a gram in the lungs will cause cancer. If eaten,
plutonium is metabolized like calcium. It goes straight to the bones
where it gives out alpha particles preventing bone marrow from
manufacturing red blood cells. The best way to avoid inhaling plutonium
is to hold your breath while handling it. If this is too difficult wear
a mask. To avoid ingesting plutonium orally follow this simple rule
Never make an A-bomb on an empty stomach. If you find yourself dozing
off while you're working or if you begin to glow in the dark it might
be wise t take a blood count. Prick your finger with a sterile pin,
and place a drop of blood on a microscope slide. Cover it with a cover
slip, and examine under a microscope (a low power kid's microscope
should do). If you count much over 0.3 percent white cells - call a
doctor. If you count more than 10%, call a morgue.
PART 2- STUFFING YOUR A-BOMB
You will now have three or four bowls of uranium metal. Keep the
bowls covered, as you don't want your silvery white uranium to tarnish.
Now take about five pounds of the uranium and pack it into a
hemispheric steel bowl (a stainless-steel salad bowl should do).
Uranium is malleable, like gold, so you should have no trouble
hammering it into the bowl to get a good fit. Take another five pound
hunk o uranium and fit it into a second stainless steel bowl. These
two bowls of U-235 are the 'subcritical masses' which when brought
together forcefully will provide the critical mass that makes your A-
bomb go. Keep them a respectful distance apart while working because
you don't want them to 'go critical' on you...at least not yet. Now
hollow out the body of an old vacuum cleaner and place your two
hemispherical bowls inside, open ends facing each other, no less than
seven inches apart, using masking tape to set them up in position. The
reason for the steel bowls and the vacuum cleaner (in case you're
wondering) is that these help reflect the neutrons back into the
uranium for a more efficient explosion. 'A loose neutron is a useless
neutron' as the
A-bomb pioneers used to say. As far as the A-bomb goes you're almost
done.
The final problem is to figure out how to get the two U-235
hemispheres to smash into each other with sufficient force to set off a
truly effective fission reaction. Almost any type of explosive can be
used to drive them together. Gunpowder (for example) is easily made at
home from potassium nitrate, sulphur, and carbon. Or you can get some
blasting caps or TNT (buy them or steal them from a construction site.)
Best of all is C4 plastic explosive. You can mold it around your bowls
and it's fairly safe to work with (but it might be wise to shape it
around an extra salad bowl in another room and then fit it to your
stainless-steel bowls). Once the explosives are in place all you need
to do is hook up a simple detonation device with a few batteries a
switch and some wire. Remember though that it is essential that the
two charges one on each side of the casing go off at once.
Now put the whole thing in the casing of an old Hoover vacuum
cleaner and your finished with this part of the process. The rest is
easy. A word to the wise about wastes - After your A-bomb is completed
you'll have a pile of moderately fatal radioactive wastes like U-238.
These are not dangerous but you do have to get rid of them. You can
flush leftovers down the toilet (don't worry about polluting the
ocean, there is already so much radioactive waste there, a few more
bucketfuls won't make waves) Or, if your the fastidious type, the kind
who never leaves gum under their seat at the movies, you can seal the
nasty stuff in coffee cans and bury it in the backyard, just like
Uncle Sam does. If the neighbors' kids have a habit of trampling the
lawn tell them to play over by the waste. You'll soon find that
they're spending most of their time in bed. Going first class- If
you're like us, you're feeling the economic pinch, and you'll want to
make your bomb as inexpensively as possible, consonant of course with
reasonable yield. The recipe we've given is for a budget-pleasing
H-bomb, no frills, nor flourishes. Just your basic 5-megaton bomb
capable of wiping out the New York metropolitan area, the Bay area, or
Boston. But don't forget, your H-bomb will only be as good as the
A-bombs in it. If you want to spend a little more money you can punch
up your A-bomb considerably. Instead of centrifuging your uranium by
hand -you can buy a commercial centrifuge (Fisher Scientific sells one
for about $1000). You also might want to be fussier about your design.
The Hiroshima bomb, a relatively crude one, only fissioned 1 percent of
it's uranium and yielded only 13 kilotons. In order to fission more of
the uranium, the force of your explosive 'trigger' has got to be evenly
diffused around the sphere, the same pressure has to be exerted on
every point of the sphere simultaneously. (It was a technique for
producing this sort of simultaneous detonation by fashioning the
explosives into lenses that the government accused Julius and Ethel
Rosenberg of trying to steal).
MAKE THREE MORE A-BOMBS FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS ABOVE.
PART 3- PUTTING YOUR H-BOMB TOGETHER
The heart of the H-bomb is the fusion process. Several A-bombs are
detonated in such a way as to create the extremely high temperature
(100 million degrees C) necessary to fuse lithium deuteride (LiD) into
helium. When the lithium nucleus slams into the deuterium nucleus two
helium nuclei are created. If this happens to enough deuterium nuclei
rapidly enough the result is an enormous amount of energy. The
energy of the H-bomb. And you don't have to worry about stealing
lithium deuteride it can be purchased from any chemical-supply house.
costs $1000 a pound. If your budget won't allow it you can substitute
lithium hydride at $40 a pound. You will need at least 100 pounds. It's
a corrosive and toxic powder so be careful. Place the lithium deuterid
or hydride in glass jars and surround it with four A-bombs in their
casings. Attach one to the same detonator so that they will go off
simultaneously. The container for the whole thing is no problem. They
can be placed anywhere (inside an old stereo console, a discarded
refrigerator -etc.). When the detonator sets off the four A-bombs all
eight hemispheres of fissionable material will slam into each other at
the same time creating four critical masses and four detonations. This
will raise the temperature of the lithium deuteride to 100 million
degrees C fast enough(a few billionths of a second) so that the lithium
will not be blown all over the neighborhood before the nuclei have time
to fuse. The result at least 1000 times the punch of the puny A-bomb
that leveled Hiroshima (20 million tons of TNT vs. 20 thousand tons.)
PART 4- WHAT TO DO WITH YOUR BOMB
Now that you have a fully assembled H-bomb housed in an attractive
console of your choice you may be wondering 'What should I do with it?'
Every family will have to answer this question according to its own
tastes and preferences but you may want to explore some possibilities
which have been successfully pioneered by the American government.
1.SELL YOUR BOMB AND MAKE A PILE OF MONEY
In these days of rising inflation, rising unemployment, and an
uncertain economic outlook, few businesses make as much sense as
weapons production. If your career forecast is cloudy, bomb sales may
be the only sure way to avoid the humiliation of receiving welfare or
unemployment. At any income level a home H-bomb business can be an
invaluable income supplement, and certainly a profitable alternative
to selling Tupperware or pirated Girl Scout cookies. Unfortunately for
the family bomb business, big government has already cornered a large
part of the world market. However, this does not mean that there is a
shortage of potential customers. The raid on Entebee was the Waterloo
of hijacking and many nationalist groups are now on the alert for new
means to get their message across. They'd jump at the chance to get
hold of an H-bomb. Emerging nations that can't ante up enough rice or
sugar to buy themselves a reactor from G.E. or Westinghouse are also
shopping around. You may wonder about the ethics of selling to nations
or groups whose goal you disapprove of. But here again take a tip from
our government 'Forget ideology! It's cash that counts!!!'
And remember H-bomb sales have a way of escalating almost like a
chain reaction. Suppose you make a sale to South Yemen which you
believe to be a Soviet puppet. Well within a few days some discrete
inquiries from North Yemen and possibly the Saudis, the Egyptions and
the Ethiopians as well can be expected. Similarly, a sale to the IRA
will generate a sale to the Ulster government. A sale to the Tanzanians
will bring the Ugandans running and so forth. It doesn't matter which
side you're on, only how many sides there are.
Don't forget about the possibility of repeat sales to the same
customer. As the experience of the U.S and the U.S.S.R. has shown
each individual nation has a potentially infinite need for H-bombs. No
customer, no matter how small, can ever have too many.
2.USE YOUR BOMB AT HOME
Many families are attracted to the H-bomb simply as a 'deterrent'.
A discrete sticker on the door or on the living room window saying
'This Home Protected by H-Bomb' will discourage IRS investigators,
census takers, and Jehovah's Witnesses. You'll be surprised how fast
the crime rate will go down and property values will go up. And once
the news gets out that you are a home H-bomb owner you'll find that you
have unexpected leverage in neighborhood disputes over everything from
parking places and stereo noise levels to school-tax rates. So relax
and enjoy the pride and excitement of home H-bomb ownership!
IS IT FOR YOU?
Let's be honest. The H-bomb isn't for everyone. Frankly there are
people who can't handle it. They break out in hives at the very mention
of megadeaths, fallout, and radiation sickness. The following quiz
will help you find out whether you have what it takes for home H-bomb
ownership. If you can answer 'yes' to six or more of these questions
then your emotionally eligible to join the nuclear club. If not, a
more conventional weapon may be more your cup of tea. Try botulism,
toxin, laser rays, or nerve gas. Here's the quiz-
1. I have learned to say 'no' to the unfair demands of others.
2. I subscribe to one or more of the following: Soldier of Fortune,
Hustler, Popular Mechanics, Self.
3. Though I have many interesting acquaintances ,I am my own best
friend.
4. I know what to say after you say 'Hello' -but I am seldom interested
in pursuing the conversation.
5. I have seen the movie 'The Deer Hunter' more than once.
6. I know that everone can be a winner if they want to, and I resent
whiners.
7. I own one or more of the following- handgun, video game, trash
compactor, snowmobile.
8. I am convinced that leukemia is psychosomatic.
9. I am aware that most vegetarians are sexually impotent.
10.I have read evidence that solar energy is a Communist conspiracy.
MYTHS ABOUT NUCLEAR WAR
Ever since the first mushroom cloud over Hiroshima ushered in the
atomic age a small group of nay sayers and doommongers has lobbied,
campaigned and demonstrated to convince Americans that H-bomb
ownership, along with nuclear power, is dangerous and unhealthy. Using
their virtual stranglehold over the media these people have tried to
discredit everything nuclear from energy to war. They have vastly over
rated the risks of nuclear bombs and left many Americans feeling
demoralized and indecisive, not sure where the truth lies. Well, here
are the myths, and here are the facts.
Myth- After a nuclear exchange the earth will no longer be suitable for
human habitation.
Fact- This is completely false. Even if humans succumbed many forms of life
would survive a nuclear free-for-all such as cockroaches certain forms
of bacteria and lichens.
Myth- Radiation is bad for you.
Fact- Everything is bad for you if you have too much of it. If you eat
too many bananas you'll get a stomach-ache. If you get too much
sun you can get sunburned (or even skin cancer). Same thing with
radiation. Too much may make you feel under the weather, but
nuclear industry officials insist that there is no evidence that
low-level radiation has any really serious adverse effects, and
high-level radiation may bring unexpected benefits. It speeds up
evolution by weeding out unwanted genetic types and creating new
ones. (Remember the old saying - 'Two heads are better than
one.') Nearer home it's plain that radiation will get rid of
pesky crab grass and weeds and teenagers will find that brief
exposure to a nuclear burst vaporizes acne and other skin
blemishes. (Many survivors of the Hiroshima bomb found that they
were free from skin and it's attendant problems forever.)
Technical Information
EXPLOSIVE- Any material that produces a rapid, violent reaction when
acted upon by heat or a strong blow. It must consist of
A. An oxidizer, and B. A fuel.
There are four main groups of explosives--
PRIMARY EXPLOSIVES must be handled in small quantities. They are
extremely sensitive to heat, and even a spark of static electricity can
cause them to explode. Common primary explosives include lead azide,
lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate. They are chiefly used in devices
called detonators to set off other explosives.
HIGH EXPLOSIVES detonate with greater power than primary explosives
but are less sensitive. Common types of high explosives include
nitroglycerin, TNT, and PETN. They are used for blasting and excavating,
but they are also used by the miltary in bombs, shells, and grenades.
BLASTING AGENTS are the safest and least expensive explosives used
in industry. They are used to shatter rock. A common blasting agent
is dynamite.
LOW EXPLOSIVES burn rapidly rather then explode, such as gunpowder.
It is used as a propellant in guns and fireworks.
This has been a
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Production
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Look for more in 1992!
EOF.
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