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Bombs/Explosives/Experiments
Vinegar: 3-5% Acetic Acid
Sani-Flush: 75% Bisulfate
Tincture of Iodine: 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine
Rubbing Alcohol: 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol
[*-> Household Substitutes <*-]
Chemical Name Household Substitute
Acacia Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulfate Alum
Aluminum Sulfate Alum
Ammonium Carbonate Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide Ammonia Water
Ammonium Nitrate Saltpeter
Ammonium Oleate Bannana Oil
Barium Sulfide Black Ash
Carbon Carbonate Chalk
Calcium Hypochloride Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide Lime
Calcium Sulphate Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid Seltzer
Carbon Tetrachloride Cleaning Fluid
Cetyltrimethylammonium Bromide Ammonium Salt
Citric Acid Citrus Fruits
Ethylene Dichloride Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde Bran Oil
Glucose Corn Syrup
Graphite Pencil Tip
Hydrochloric Acid Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide Peroxide
Lead Acetate Sugar of Lead
Lead Tetro-oxide Red Lead
Magnesium Hydroxide Milk of Magnesia
Magnesium Silicate Talc
Magnesium Sulfate Epsom Salts
Methyl Salicylate Wintergreen Oil
Napthalene Mothballs
Phenol Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate Cream of Tartar
Potassium Bitartrate Saltpeter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate Chrome Alum
Potassium Nitrate Saltpeter
Silicon Dioxide Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate Baking Soda
Sodium Borate Borax
Sodium Carbonate Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride Salt
Sodium Dioxide Sand
Sodium Hydroxide Lye
Sodium Hydroxide Drain Cleaner
Sodium Silicate Water glass
Sodium Sulfate Grauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate Photographers hypo
Sulfuric Acid Battery Acid
Sucrose Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate White Vitriol
[ ] * Generating Chlorine Gas *
Get a large bottle and put AJAX in the bottom. Then pour some Ammonia
down into the bottle. Since the gas is heavier than air, it will stay down
in there unless you use large amounts of AJAX or Ammonia.
[ ] * Chlorine + Turpentine *
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in Turpentine. Quickly drop it
into the bottle of Chlorine. It should give off alot of black smoke and
probably start burning...
[ ] * Chlorine Fuse Bomb *
Materials:
-1 Large explosive (M-80 or above)
-1 Large cylindrical cardboard container such as kool-aid drink mix
-1 Roll of black electrical tape
Fill the container half-way with comet cleanser. Then nestle the explosive
on the cleanser. Pour more cleanser until container is filled, leave
explosive's wick sticking out above the comet, stick fuse through plastic top
to the container tightly. To ignite this bomb just light the fuse and move
quickly. The bomb will explode and fill the air with poison gas.
[ ] * Chlorine Gas *
Materials:
-1 Two liter bottle
-1 Measuring cup
-1 Bottle of chlorox bleach
-1 Bottle of Ammonia
Pour 1/2 a cup of chlorox into the bottle. Pour 1/2 cup of Ammonia into the
bottle. Quickly screw on the cap to the bottle and throw the bottle far
away. The cap will blow off releasing a deadly cloud of fumes.
[ ] * Chloride of Azode *
A good example of how ammonium nitrate can be chemically mixed with other
substances, and impart its explosive qualities to these otherwise nonexplosive
materials, is in the preparation of chloride of azode.
1. A quantity of chlorine gas is collected in a small glass beaker, and placed
upside down on another glass beaker containing a water solution of
ammonium nitrate.
2. Now the solution of ammonium nitrate is heated gently. While it is being
heated, the surface of the solution will become oily, and finally
small droplets will form and sink to the bottom of the beaker.
3. After this process is finished, remove the heat and drain off excess
ammonium nitrate solution. The droplets that remain at the bottom of
the beaker are chloride of azode of nitrochloride. Nitrochloride
explodes violently when brought into contact with an open flame, or
when exposed to temperatures above 212 degrees F.
There are hundreds and hundreds of formulas for the use of ammonium nitrate,
in different explosive compounds. For further information, a chemistry manual
or handbook of explosives can be useful.
[ ] * Hydrogen + Chlorine *
Take the test tube of Hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep
it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of Chlorine (Not one that has
reacted with Turpentine) Say "Goodbye test tube", and drop it into the
bottle. the Hydrogen and Chlorine should react and possibly explode
(Depending on purity and amount of each gas) an interesting thing about this
is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or energy is around, but
when a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...
[ ] * Generating Hydrogen Gas *
To generate Hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react
with that acid, try Vinegar (Acetic Acid) with Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium,
Etc. You can now collect Hydrogen in something, if you note Hydrogen is
lighter than air. Light a small amount and it burns with a small *POP*
Another way of creating Hydrogen is by an electrolysis of water, this
involves separating water (H2O) into Hydrogen and Oxygen by an electric
current. To do this you need a 6-12 Volt battery, two test tubes, a large
bowl, two carbon electrodes (Take them out of any unworking 6-12 Volt
battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl of water.
submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them,
with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire
going down to the electrodes. This will work for awhile, but Chlorine will
be generated along with oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper
wires leading to the Carbon electrodes. (The table salt is broken up into
Chlorine and Sodium ions, the Chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while
Sodium reacts with water to form Sodium Hydroxide...) Therefore, if you can
get your hands on some Sulfuric Acid, use it instead. It will not affect the
water conduct electricity.
[ ] * Creating Oxygen *
Get Hydrogen Peroxide and Magnesium Dioxide (It's a black powder found in
batteries) mix the two in a bottle, and possibly some vaseline. The two will
react and give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build
up and shoot it off, if stoppered too tight notice it will explode.
[ ] * Iodine *
Tincture of Iodine contains mostly Alcohol and a little Iodine. To separate
them, put the tincture of Iodine in a metal lid from a bottle and heat it
over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the
tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice in top of it. the Alcohol
should evaporate, and the Iodine should sublime, but should form Iodine
crystals on the cold metal lid above. If this works, you can use the iodine
along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodine.
[ ] *How To Make Nitrogen Tri-Iodide*
Probably the most hazardous explosive compound of all is nitrogen
tri-iodide. Strangely enough, it is very popular with high school chemsits,
who do not have the vaguest idea of what they are doing. The reason for its
popularity may be the ready availability of the ingredients, but it is so
sensitive to friction that a fly landing on it, has been known to detonate it.
The recipe has only been included as a warning and a curiosity. It should not
be used.
[1> Add a small amount of solid iodine crystals to about 20 cc. of
concentrated ammonium hydroxide. This operation must be performed
very slowly, until a brownish-red precipitate is formed.
[2> Now it is filtered through filter paper, and then washed first with
alcohol and secondly with ether.
Tri-idodide must remain wet, since when it dries it becomes super
sensitive to friction, and a slight touch can set it off.
[*Nitrogen Triiodide*]
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive.
Never store it and be carful when you're around it- Sound, Air movements, and
other tiny things could set it off.
MATERIALS-
2-3G Iodine
15ML concentrated Ammonia
8 sheets filter paper
50ml beaker
Feather mounted on a two meter pole
Ear plugs
Tape
Spatula
Stirring Rod
Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml Ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5
minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes!
Retain the solid, decant the liquid (Pour off the liquid but keep the brown
solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four
sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate
sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at
least 30 minutes (Preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather.
(Wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears- it is very loud!)
[*Nitrogen Triiodide #2]
Five grams iodine
three grams potassium iodide
20 ml. concentrated ammonium hydroxide
filter paper & funnel.
Stir the potassium iodide and iodine together in a beaker with 50 ml. of water.
Add the ammonium hydroxide with stirring until no more precipitate forms. Filter
and spread a thin layer of the wet solid on several filter papers. Break the
filter papers into many small pieces and allow to dry for several hours. On
drying, the paper is extremely sensitive to touch and will explode violently
with the slightest disturbance. Can be handled safely when wet. Do not let any
sizeable quantity of the dry material accumulate. --- I was able to buy
concentrated ammonium hydroxide from a photographic supply.
[ ] * Gun Powder *
Materials:
-3 Cups granulated potassium nitrate
-2 Cups powdered charcoal
-1/2 Cup sulfur
-3 Pints Rubbing Alcohol
-3 Cups Water
1. Place the alcohol in a 2 Gallon bucket
2. Place Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, and Sulfur in a heat resistant 2
gallon bucket. Add 1 cup of water and mix very thoroughly until all
of the ingredients are dissolved.
3. Add two more cups of water then place the bucket over an open fire
and stir until you see small bubbles forming.
4. Remove the bucket from the fire and pour it's contents into the
alcohol bucket.
5. Let the mixture set for about 5 minutes. Strain the liquid through a
thick cloth, then squeeze in such a way that the powder left on it is
formed into a good sized clump.
6. Place some screening over a dry bucket, and rub the clump of powder
over it.
7. Pour the powder from the bucket over some sun-stricken cement to dry
Remove from sun as soon as dry. You now have some gun powder to do
with what you please...
[*Gun Powder II (Easy Version)*
85% Potassium Nitrate 65% Potassium Chlorate
12% Charcoal 22% Charcoal
32% Sulfur 13% Sulfur
Potassium Chlorate is the same thing as Sodium Chlorate or Salt Peter
Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain. Do not use
metal object when crushing.
[ ] * Fertilizer Explosive *
Materials:
-Fertilizer with containing no less than 32% total Nitrogen
-A 1:1 mixture of Oil and Gasoline
-16 Ounce bottle
1. Crush the fertilizer into a flour like substance
2. Mix 32 parts fertilizer to 1 part oil/gas mixture while stirring
vigorously
3. Spoon mixture into 16 Ounce bottle
4. Insert blasting cap, just below the surface of the fertilizer
explosive, ignite when ready.
[ ] * Fertilizer Explosive # 2 *
Materials:
-Fertilizer with no less than 32% Nitrogen
1. Grind the fertilizer into a flour like substance
2. Mix 4 parts fertilizer to 1 part bronzing powder
3. Store in air-tight container until ready to use
4. When ready to use, go to step 4 of Fertilizer Explosive #1
[ ] * Sodium Chlorate/Sugar Explosive *
Materials:
-Sodium Chlorate
-Granual sugar
-Steel pipe threaded at one end and one end cap
1. Mix 3 parts sodium chlorate to 2 parts sugar
2. Screw on the end cap onto one of the threaded ends
3. Pour the mixture into the pipe
4. Insert a blasting cap just below the surface of the mixture
[ ] * Picric Acid *
Materials:
-Asprin tablets
-95% pure alcohol
-Sulfuric Acid (from car battery; boil until white fumes appear)
-Potassium Nitrate (Part II)
1. Crush 20 asprin in a glass container then add 1 teaspoon water and mix
into a paste while stirring
2. Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of Alcohol to the asprin paste while stirring
3. Tape a paper towel over a glass container and pour the solution over it.
Pitch the residue left on the paper towel.
4. Pour the filtered solution into a glass or ceramic dish
5. Heat a pan of water 160-180 degrees. Place the dish into the
Alcohol/Water solution evaporates leaving behind white powder
6. Pour 1/3 cup of Sulfuric Acid into a jar then add the white powder
7. Place the jar into a pan of simmering water for about 15 minutes then
remove the jar from the pan. The solution should turn yellow-orange in
color
8. Add 3 teaspoons of Potassium Nitrate to solution while stirring
vigorously. The solution will turn red then back to yellow-orange
9. Allow the solution to cool to room temperature while stirring
occasionally
10. Pour the solution into a glass containing 1 1/4 cup of water while
stirring vigorously
11. Filter the solution through a paper towel into a glass container
12. Wash the yellow particles that collect on the towel with 2 teaspoons of
water.
13. Place the particles in a glass or ceramic dish and set in simmering water
for 2 hours
[ ] * How To Make Picric Acid *
Method for the preparation of picric acid:
1. Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric
acid. The mixture is constantly stirred and kept at a steady
temperature of 95 degrees C., for four to six hours, depending on the
quantities of phenol used.
2. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and
an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the
nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat,
so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more
importantly the temperature of the solution must NOT GO ABOVE 110
degrees C.
3. Ten or so minutes after the addition of the nitric acid, the picric acid
will be fully formed, and you can draw off the excess acid. It should
be filtered and washed in the same manner as above, until the litmus
paper tests show that there is little or no acid present. When
washing, use only cold water. After this, the picric acid should be
allowed to partially dry.
Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has disadvantages.
It is much more expensive to make, and is best handled in a wet 10% distilled
water form, as picric acid becomes very unstable when completely dry. This
compound should never be put into direct contact with any metal, since
instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes
spontanteously upon formation.
[ ] * Electrical Blasting Cap *
Materials:
-.75 Grams of Mercury Fulminate
-Picric Acid
-Spent casing of at least .22 calibre (.45, .50, .38, etc...)
-12" fuse with insulated wire
1. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation from the center of the wire
2. Drill 2 holes in the casing
3. Thread the wire so that the non-insulated area is inside the casing
4. Fill the casing with the Mercury Fulminate
5. When your done with step 8, connect one end of the wire to the positive
lead of a battery (the higher the voltage the better)
6. Connect one end of the second wire to the negative lead and the second
wire to a SPST or DPST or other 2-way switch (make sure the switch is in
the off position)
7. Connect the other end of the first wire to the other end of the switch
8. Flip the switch whenever your ready to ignite the blasting cap.
[ ] * How to make Mercury Fulminate for Blasting caps *
3.12 MERCURY FULMINATE
Mercury fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It can be detonated by either heat or shock, which would make it
of infinite value to a terrorist. Even the action of dropping a crystal of
the fulminate causes it to explode. A person making this material would
probably use the following procedure:
Method # 1
1. Take 5 grams of pure mercury and mix it with 35 milliliters of Nitric Acid.
2. The misture is slowly and gently heated as soon as the solution bubbles
and turns green, one knows the silver mercury is dissolved.
3. After it is dissolved, the solution should be poured, slowly, into a
small container of Ethyl Alcohol. This will result in red fumes.
4. After a half hour or so, the red fumes will turn white, indicating that
the process is nearing its final stage.
5. After a few minutes, add distilled water to the solution
6. The entire solution is now filtered, in order to obtain the small white
crystals. These crystals are pure mercury fulminate, but should be
washed many time, and tested with litmus paper for any remaining acid.
Method # 2
1. Mix one part Mercuric Oxide with ten parts Ammonia solution. When ratios
are reached they are always according to weight rather than volume
2. After waiting eight to ten days, one will see that the Mercuric Oxide has
reacted with the Ammonia solution to produce the white fulminate crystals
3. These crystals must be washed several times and tested with litmus paper
for any remaining acid
[ ] *Cheap Electrical Igniters
Materials:
pack of 100 silicon diodes (available at any electronic store; you know you
got the right ones if they are very,very small glass objects.)
pack of matches
1 candle
Procedure:
1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to form in the top.
2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the
head....bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an upward direction
and then sticks out to the side...do the same with the other wire, but in a
downward direction. The diode should now be hugging the match head, but its
wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!!
3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (work under water)
4. repeat steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want
How to use:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches
what is called break-down voltage. When most electrical components reach this
voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and light, while quickly
melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head. These
are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to
work. Enjoy!
[ ] * Land Mine *
Materials:
-1 M-80 or other explosive
-3 Wires
-1 9 Volt battery
-1 Solar igniter
-1 Pressure plate switch
1. Connect the wire from battery to switch to solar igniter to battery
2. Replace fuse on M-80 with solar ignitor
3. Hide device under a light coat of dirt
4. Place switch in the path when switch is pressured the bomb will go off
[ ] * Detonators *
The most common time-delay device is an ordinary safety fuse. These
fuses usually consist of a black-powder core surrounded with a fabric and
then a layer of waterproof material. Although there are many different types,
it can generally be said that safety fuses burn between 30 and 45 seconds
per foot; however, check these figures when you make your purchase. Fuses
can be bought from any mail-order pryotechnics company. Two with whom I have
dealt are:
Ecco Products
Box 189
Northvale, New Jersey 07647
Westech Corporation
P.O. Box 8193
Salt Lake City, Utah 84108
Double-coated waterproof fuse usually sells for 20 to 25 dollars for
a thousand to fifteen hundred feet. I would advise purchasing this equipment,
since homemade fuses are not to be trusted.
Bombs can be detonated in many ways. The detonation and use of
certain devices are based mainly on the cleverness and imagination of the
saboteur. I will discuss several basic forms of detonators, both nonelectric
and electric. However, there is an infinite number of variations, which may be
better suited to individual situations.
The first type is referred to either as a tension-release, or a
wiretrap device. It operates on the principle of releasing the tension
caused by a wound spring, on the firing pin, and allowing it to strike and
set off a nonelectrical blasting cap. The nonelectrical blasting cap will in
turn generate the necessary heat to ignite the TNT or dynamite. This can be
implemented in many ways. A common method in which the wire-trip device can
be employed is stretching a trip wire six inches above the ground. Another
equally popular method of employing the tension-release device is attaching
the taut wire to the back of a door, so that, when the door is opened, the
tension is released, and the explosive ignites.
A device very similar to the last one is the pull-trigger electric
detonator. It functions in the same manner, in that a safety pin is removed
from the striker or firing pin, causing it to move forward and connect with a
metal plate. This connection with the metal plate completes the electrical
circuit. The batteries have been connected by wires to an electrical
blasting cap, a metal plate, and finally to the firing pin. Although
professional supplies for this equipment are available at reasonable prices,
the device can be constructed from household items. The construction of this
device is as follows: two flashlight batteries are connected to each other,
and then one wire is run from one end of the batteries to the electrical
blasting cap, the other wire from the opposite end of the batteries to the
metal plate. A third wire is run from the blasting cap to the firing pin.
This now completes the fully cocked device.
In the same manner as the explosive is detonated, so is the common
military grenade. The principle of a tension release is the same. After the
pin is pulled out of the military grenade, the spring is free to react,
causing the primer to ignite the lead-spitter fuse, and it in turn will ignite
the lead oxide and pentolite. The pentolite will release enough heat to
ignite the TNT and cause fragmentation of the metal casing.
The next type of detonating device I am going to discuss is called the
pressure-trigger device. It is based on the application of pressure rather
than its release, as in the previous devices. This mechanism is primarily
used when an electrical circuit is employed. The plunger is pushed down; it
forces one thin metal plate against another thicker metal plate. The batteries
are connected, via the blasting cap, to each of these metal plates. Therefore,
when they touch, the electrical circuit is complete, and the explosive will
ignite.
This type of device has several important advantages. First of all,
it can be constructed away from the area it will be used in. This will cut
installation time down to seconds.
[ ] * Pressure Detonators *
The next type of detonating device I will discuss is called a
releas-of-pressure mechanism. This device employs exactly the same principles
as the pressure-trigger device, except in reverse. The movement of the
pressure plate, rather than down, is now up. This can be used effectively when
a weight is placed on the pressure plate. Then when it is removed, the
explosives will be ignited. To construct, use a heavy-duty spring beneath the
first metal plate. Connect a wire from the blasting cap to the first metal
plate. The second wire is then stretched from the bottom of battery "A", to
the second metal plate. The third wire is run from the electrical blasting cap
to the top of battery "B". When this is accomplished, the booby trap is fully
cocked. When the weight on the pressure plate is remove, the spring will will
force the second metal plate against the first, thus completing the electrical
circuit and exploding the device.
In a tension-release booby trap, when the tension, resulting from a
wire pulling on a pliable metal strip, is released, the metal strip will snap
back into another metal strip. Since the wires from the batteries and blasting
cap are connected to either metal strip, when they touch, the circuit will be
complete and it will detonate the explosive charge. This type of detonator is
especially effective when attached to drawers, doors, or any movable object.
[ ] * Mortars *
Materials:
-3" Long and 4" Diameter iron pipe, threaded at one end
-End cap for pipe
-Gun powder
-9 Volt lantern battery and wires
-1 Pound of small stones or other small metal scrap (hex nuts)
-2, 20" X 20" rags
-Paper bag
-Light bulb
1. Screw the end cap on the pipe
2. Using a file, make a hole in the top of the light bulb
3. Fill the light bulb and sack with gun powder
4. Solder two very long wires to the base of the light bulb
5. Put the bulb in the sack with the wires hanging out. Fill the rest of
the sack with gun powder
6. Put the sack into the back of the pipe. Make sure the wires lead out of
the pipe
7. Wad up one of the rags and pack it into the pipe. Make sure the wires
led out of the pipe.
8. Insert scrap, stones, shrapnel on top of the first rag
9. Wad up the second rag and pack it in at the top
10. Use some form of electrical tape
11. Use battery to ignite
[ ] * Pressure Plate Switch *
Materials:
-9 Volt Lantern battery
-Piece of wood size of the pressure plate you want
-Four small pieces of wood approximately 1/4" thickness
-A piece of flexible conductive material (sheet metal,cut coke can,etc.)
1. Nail the four extra pieces of wood to the corners of the largest piece of
wood.
2. Connect one wire to the positive lead of the battery
3. Nail the stripped end of the positive wire to the center of the large
piece of wood.
4. Solder a second wire to the piece of metal
5. Dig a hole where you want the pressure plate. Place the piece of wood
into the bottom of the hole. Set the metal on top of the four supports.
Cover with a loose, thin layer of dirt, leaves, etc.
6. Attatch a third wire to the negative battery lead
[ ] * Briefcase Bomb *
Materials:
-Briefcase
-Moustrap
-9 Volt battery
-Plastique
-Electrical blasting cap
1. Remove all parts of the mousetrap except for the spring loaded lever
2. Attatch a wire to the positive lead of the battery and wrap it around the
lever
3. Attatch a second wire to the negative lead to the battery to one end of
the wire of the blasting cap
4. Attatch a second wire to the other end of the blasting cap wire
5. Put in a considerable amount of plastique into the briefcase
6. Insert blasting caps
7. Tape down the battery and mousetrap to the bottom of the case
8. Push back lever and tape the final loose wire (leads to blasting cap) to
the mousetrap so that if the lever would be released. It would complete
the circuit
9. Keeping the lever held back in it's spring-loaded position, close the
briefcase top and lock it
10. When it's opened, the lever will spring shut, completing the circuit to
the blasting cap, igniting the plastique and blowing them to hell...
[ ] * Booby Traps *
[Road Trap]
This incorporates a wire-trip action to complete the electrical circuit. It
is extremely simple to make, since all the equipment can be gathered around
the house. The great advantage to this particular device is that the
explosives are detonated when the vehicle is directly over it, so insuring
maximum destruction. To construct a road trap, begin by digging three holes
across a roadway. Into two of the holes place the explosive charges, and into
the third place a regular car battery. Connect the first wire from the
negative terminal of the battery via each of the blasting caps, in each
charge, to a metal pin on one side of an ordinary clothespin. The
clothespin must be kept open by a small wooden wedge, which is attached to a
thin black wire stretched across the roadway. When the semi-invisible wire is
pulled, the wodden wedge will fall out of the clothespin, thus closing the
clothespin. When the clothespin is closed, the two metal pins will connect
the electrical circuit, thus exploding the charges.
[Walk Trap]
This incorporates the same type of wire-trap action as described in the road
trap. The walk trap is not electrically operated, it relies on a percussion
detonator. When the wire is pulled, it pulls the safety pin out of the heavy
firing pin. The heat created from the detonator's explosion will be
sufficient to set off the TNT. This type of booby trap is especially effective
in dense undergrowth where the trip wire cannot be readily seen (see figure).
######
########
#[TREE]#
########
######
||
||
/||
!:!.;!.!.;!:;.! / ||
!:;[Tall Grass];! Wire->/ ||
!;::!;;.;!.;;!.;! / ||
!.;..!;..;.:!.;!! / ||
______________________!.!!;.!:..!..:!.!______/_____||_________________
-----[Board]----- /
| ______ | /
|----|heavy |---|---/ <-Safety Pin
| |firing| |
| \pin / |
| \ / |
| \/ |
| |
| |
|------####-----| <---[### = Detonator]
|///////////////|
|/////[TNT]/////|
|///////////////|
|_______________|
[Bangalore Torpedo]
This is nothing more than a few sections of pipe filled with sticks of
dynamite, sealed at the ends, and joined in the middle by couplings, thus
permitting the torpedo to be of varying lengths. The cap at one end must have
a small hole drilled in it, so that a fuse and blasting cap can be inserted.
It can be used very effectively to destroy walls, barricades, and
steel or iron doors. These are also great weapons against cars, trucks, and
even trains. If piping of this sort is not available, you can make a
substitute torpedo by taking a stick of dynamite and wrapping it tightly with
electric tape and thin copper wire. To be effectvie, it should have many
layers of each.
[Homemade Hand Grenade]
This is constructed from an empty, clean, condensed-milk can, attached to a
wodden handle. It is then filled halfway with a layer of dynamite. In the
dynamite is placed a nonelectric blasting cap, with a five to six second
fuse. The dynamite is then covered with small pieces of iron, until the can is
full. Seal the top of the open end closed, leaving a small hole for the fuse.
/
====|====
=.:.|.:.=
=:.:|.:.= <--[:.: = Iron Scraps]
=.:.|:.:=
=---|---=
=///+///=
=///+///= <--[+ = Non-electric Blasting Cap]
=///+///=
=///////=
=///////= <--[/// = Dynamite]
=========
|||
||| <-- Wooden Handle
|||
|||
[Anti-Personnel Grenade]
This is constructed by taking a piece of pipe and closing it at one end,
either by soldering or by screwing a cap on it. The pipe is packed tightly
with dynamite, and sealed at the other end, leaving a small hole for the
detonator, which is made in the following manner. A piece of one-eighth-inch
tubing is fastened to the end of a piece of fuse, which in turn is attached
to a detonating cap. On the other end of the fuse, a bit of cotton, saturated
with chlorate of potassium and common sugar, is placed, followed by another
piece of cotton and a little vial of sulferic acid. (This vial must be
hermetically sealed, to prevent leakage). Finally, a piece of wood or iron,
which can be easily moved, is packed in the remaining empty space. The piece
of wood is placed there, so that when the pipe is moved the piece of iron or
wood will fall against the vial of sulfuric acid and break it. Once the
sulfuric acid contacts the potassium chlorate, the chemical reaction will
cause a very hot flame, which will ignite the fuse and cause the explosion. If
this type of device is placed in a roadway, or directly in the path of the
enemy army, there is a good change it will be set off - either by a kick or
by curiosity.
[Book Trap]
To construct this, you will need a large book, perhaps a thousand pages. The
book should be hollowed out, leaving the edges intact. In this hollow place,
put a dry cell battery and your explosive, and connect the wires. Fix two
metal contact points to the edges of the book, and separate them with a
wooden wedge, which is attached to the rear wall of the bookcase. This must
be accomplished in such a manner that, when the book is removed from the
shelf, the metal contact points will touch and complete the electrical
circuit, thus causing the detonation of the explosive charge.
[ ] BOOK BOMBS
Concealing a bomb can be extremely difficult in a day and age where
perpetrators of violence run wild. Bags and briefcases are often searched
by authorities whenever one enters a place where an individual might intend
to set off a bomb. One approach to disguising a bomb is to build what is
called a book bomb; an explosive device that is entirely contained inside of
a book. Usually, a relatively large book is required, and the book must be of
the hardback variety to hide any protrusions of a bomb. Dictionaries, law
books, large textbooks, and other such books work well. When an individual
makes a bookbomb, he/she must choose a type of book that is appropriate for
the place where the book bomb will be placed. The actual construction of a
book bomb can be done by anyone who possesses an electric drill and a coping
saw. First, all of the pages of the book must be glued together. By pouring
an entire container of water-soluble glue into a large bucket, and filling
the bucket with boiling water, a glue-water solution can be made that will
hold all of the book's pages together tightly. After the glue-water solution
has cooled to a bearable temperature, and the solution has been stirred well,
the pages of the book must be immersed in the glue-water solution, and each
page must be thoroughly soaked. It is extremely important that the covers of
the book do not get stuck to the pages of the book while the pages are drying.
Suspending the book by both covers and clamping the pages together in a vice
works best. When the pages dry, after about three days to a week, a hole must
be drilled into the now rigid pages, and they should drill out much like wood.
Then, by inserting the coping saw blade through the pages and sawing out a
rectangle from the middle of the book, the individual will be left with a shell
of the book's pages. The pages, when drilled out, should look like this:
________________________
| ____________________ |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________| |
|______________________|
(book covers omitted)
This rectangle must be securely glued to the back cover of the book.
After building his/her bomb, which usually is of the timer or radio controlled
variety, the bomber places it inside the book. The bomb itself, and whatever
timer or detonator is used, should be packed in foam to prevent it from rolling
or shifting about. Finally, after the timer is set, or the radio control has
been turned on, the front cover is glued closed, and the bomb is taken to its
destination.
[Loose Floorboard Trap]
This one utilizes the same principles as the Book Trap, in that is relies on
two metal contact points touching to complete the electrical circuit. Beneath
the loose floorboard are two strips of pliable metal of bamboo, each with a
metal contact point, which will touch when pressure is brought down on the
loose floorboard.
[Gate Trap]
This is an extremely simple, effective, and relatively safe booby trap. To
cock the booby trap, pull the pin on a regular tension release grenade, and
place beneath a swining gate, or anywhere that will supply the pressure
necessary. When the gate is moved (either opened or closed), the pressure
will be released and the grenade detonated.
[Chimney Trap]
Take three or four sticks of dynamite and tape them together. Attach a
nonelectrical blasting cap, with a three or four foot fuse. Now tape the
dynamite about five feet up on the inside of the chimney, leaving the fuse
hanging loose downward. The end of the fuse should be about a foot or so up
the chimney so that it is out of sight. When a fire is lit, the heat
generated will ignite the fuse, and it will explode the charge, further up the
chimney. This works extremely well, since most of the tamping is supplied by
the very structure of the chimney.
[Car Trap]
It has many advantages, the most important being that you do not have to carry
your own power supply, but rather use the ignition system of the car itself.
Wires are run from the electrical blasting cap to points along the electrical
ignititon system, and attached with alligator clips. When the key it turned,
it will complete the ignition system, and thus explode the bomb. A good place
to hide explosives is in the hollow cavity behind the dashboard, since then
the full force of the explosion will be directed at the individuals in the
front seat.
[Pipe Trap]
There are basically two methods of booby-trapping a pipe. The first is very
similar to the chimney trap, except the intent is to blow off the smoker's
head. A small amount of tetryl or lead azide is placed in the mouthpiece of
the pipe, and a fuse is attached, which leads through the rest of the pipe to
a point about one-quarter-inch beneath the bowl. When the smoker lights the
pipe, the fuse will be lit, and burn down untouched, until it detonates the
explosives in the mouthpiece, and blows the smoker's head off.
The second method is a little more complex but just as effective. A
very sensitive explosive is placed in the mouthpiece, as before, except an
activated firing pin is placed in the stem of the pipe. The smoker will
attempt to light the pipe and find he cannot suck through it. Believing the
stem to be blocked with tar or nicotine, he will unscrew the threaded joint.
The act of unscrewing will release the firing pin, and detonate the
explosives.
[Cacodyal]
Since it is not feasible to make napalm in your kitchen, you will have to be
satisfied with cacodyal. This made by chemically extracting all the oxygen
from alcohol, and then replacing it, under laboratory controls, with metal
arsenic. The formula for alcohol is C4 H5 O, whereas for cacodyal it is
C4 H5 AR. Now, this new substance, cacodyal, possesses spontaneous
inflammability, the moment it is exposed to the air. Therefore it can be put
into a bottle and used like a Molotov Cocktail. If it is thrown, it will
explode on impact, but this is not its real advantage. When it explodes, a
dense white smoke is given off. This is white arsenic, a deadly poin. One
inhalation will probably cause death in a matter seconds.
[Molotov Cocktail]
This is an incendiary bomb, which bursts into flame on breaking. A
quart bottle is filled with 2/3 gasoline and 1/3 oil. A fuse is made of an
old gasoline-soaked rag, and then stuffed into the mouth of the bottle. The
bottle is corked, and the fuse is lit. It is thrown and, when it breaks, it
will burst into flame. The enemy will not be able to extinguish the fire with
water. These were used with varying degree of success in the struggle
in Hungary. According to some reports they can disable a tank.
[MOLOTOV COCKTAILS]
First used by Russians against German tanks, the Molotov cocktail is now
exclusively used by terrorists worldwide. They are extremely simple to make,
and can produce devastating results. By taking any highly flammable material,
such as gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene, ethyl or methyl alcohol, lighter fluid,
turpentine, or any mixture of the above, and putting it into a large glass
bottle, anyone can make an effective firebomb. After putting the flammable
liquid in the bottle, simply put a piece of cloth that is soaked in the liquid
in the top of the bottle so that it fits tightly. Then, wrap some of the cloth
around the neck and tie it, but be sure to leave a few inches of lose cloth to
light. Light the exposed cloth, and throw the bottle. If the burning cloth
does not go out, and if the bottle breaks on impact, the contents of the bottle
will spatter over a large area near the site of impact, and burst into flame.
Flammable mixtures such as kerosene and motor oil should be mixed with a more
volatile and flammable liquid, such as gasoline, to insure ignition. A mixture
such as tar or grease and gasoline will stick to the surface that it strikes,
and burn hotter, and be more difficult to extinguish. A mixture such as this
must be shaken well before it is lit and thrown
[Whistle Trap & Other Handy Devices]
A booby trap that has an effect similar to the one created by the
pipe trap, is the whistle booby trap. It is constructed by separating the
metal or plastic sides into their natural halves. This can be accomplished by
steaming. Now, fill each half one-fourth full of an extremely friction-
sensitive explosive. Before gluing the two halves together, include a small
ball made of a rough sandpaper-like substance (glue some sand together). When
the whistle is blown, the ball will bounce around inside the shell, creating
enough friction heat to set off the explosive charge.
An interesting booby trap can be constructed by using a bottle, full
of a highly sensitive liquid explosive, which will detonate on the extraction
of the cork. The cork is designed with a friction element that pulls through
a sensitive explosive. When this booby trap explodes, it does extensive
damage, due to the fragmentation of the glass.
An extremely simple device for setting a time-delay fire is a book of
matches, with a lighted cigarette stuck in it. This is then left upon
combustible material. The cigarette, as it burns down, will light the matches,
and they in turn will generate the heat necessary to ignite the other larger
combustible material.
Another incendiary time-delay device is constructed out of a candle,
friction matches, and several rags soaked either in gasoline or kerosene. The
candle is placed upright in the center of the bundle of matches. As the candle
burns down, it will ignite the matches, and they will ignite the rags. One can
usually expect about a fifteen-minute delay with this device.
[ ] * Trap Light Bulbs *
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. When the bulb is red hot, a hole must be carefully poked
in the bulb, remembering the vacuum state inside the bulb. In either case,
once the bulb and/or base has cooled down to room temperature or lower, the
bulb can be filled with an explosive material, such as black powder. If the
glass was removed from the metal base, it must be glued back on to the base
with epoxy. If a hole was put in the bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient
to hold the explosive in the in the bulb. Then, after making sure that the
socket has no power by checking with a working lightbulb, all that need be
done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into the socket. Such a device has been
used by terrorists or assassins with much success, since nobody can search the
room for a bomb without first turning on the light.
Materials:
-1 Light Bulb
-1 Gallon of gasoline
-1 Tube of Epoxy glue
-Liquid Soap
1. Place hole in the light bulb (See Below)
*
---
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
*[ ]*
[ ]
[ ]
[ ]
[-----]
*-Mark where hole may be placed
2. Carefully pour some gasoline through the hole filling half the bulb
3. Carefully pour some liquid soap in to complete filling the bulb
4. Cover the hole with Epoxy glue
5. Make sure the switch is off and screw light bulb in socket, when the
switch is turned on. The bulb will explode sending sharp fragments of
glass all over...
[ ] * Pipe Bomb (Easy Version) *
Materials:
-1 Threaded steel pipe with caps on the ends
-1 Baby food or other small jar
-Some small rocks
-Some Baking Soda
1. Fill glass jar with Vinegar
2. Fit glass jar into steel pipe
3. Cap one end of pipe
4. Drop small rocks into pipe
5. Fill pipe with Baking Soda
6. Screw the other cap on tightly and then weld it shut. This is usually
used as an impact explosive, toss it on a hard surface, the contact will
break the jar, five to ten minutes later, it will explode
[*Pipe Bomb*]
Buy a section of metal water pipe 1/2 by 6 inches long, threaded on both ends.
Buy two metal caps to fit. These are standard items in hardware stores. Drill a
1/16th hole in the center of the pipe. This is easy with a good drill bit.
Hanson is a good brand to use. Screw a metal cap tightly on one end. Fill the
(pipe to within 1/2 inch of the top with black powder. Do not pack the powder.
Don't even tap the bottom of the pipe to make it settle. You want the powder
loose. For maximum explosive effect, you need dry, fine powder sitting loose in
a very rigid container. Wipe off any powder that has gotten onto the top or
threads of the pipe. Gently screw on the second cap. Hand tighten only. Place a
small piece of tape over the hole and go to your test site. Remove the tape and
insert a two inch piece of black match fuse or a firecracker fuse into the hole.
Place the bomb behind a large rock or tree. Using thread or string, lightly tie
a 2 inch piece of sulfured wick to the end of the fuse. Avoid letting the wick
touch any objects. This might cause it to go out. Light the wick and head for
cover in a direction that keeps the rock or tree between you and the bomb at all
times. Get behind cover at least 50 yards away. You may not expect such a large
explosion from such a small object. The pipe will be blown to pieces which will
fly through (the air like bullets. An accident could seriously wound or kill
you. This is not a big firecracker. It is more like a hand grenade. The size of
the bomb can be increased by using a larger pipe end caps. To make a big noise
without blowing up your pipe, cap one end only. Drill a 1/16 hole at the top
of the threads at the capped end. Put in about 3 to 4 rounded teaspoonsful of
powder. Pack about 2 inches of wadding on top of the powder. Toilet paper or
kleenex is good for this. Pack it tight. Open up a safety pin and stick it
into the hole. Work it around to loosen up the powder so a fuse can be inserted.
When this goes off, the recoil will be tremendous. You will loose your pipe
unless you brace it securely against (something. The pipe can be reloaded and
used again. A fun trick is to mount the pipe pointing upward. Drop a tin can
over the open end and light the fuse. The can will be blown high into the air.
Campbell's soup cans are great for this.
[ ] * Nitro Explosive *
Materials:
-65% Nitric Acid
-20% Glycerine
-15% Sulfuric Acid
1. Mix these into solution form. This should explode by heat, impact or
fuse.
[ ] * Nitro Compound II *
Petroleum jelly and Potassium Chlorate in a 1:1 ratio by weight make a totally
safe when wet compound, but is highly explosive and shock sensitive when dry.
[ ] * Formulas For Ammonium Nitrate Compounds *
[1> Ammonium nitrate 60 [2> Ammonium nitrate 34
Potassium nitrate 29.5 Potassium nitrate 34
Sulfur flour 2.5 TNT 17
Charcoal powder 4 Ammonium chloride 15
Woodmeal 4
[4> Ammonium nitrate 70
[3> Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium sulfate 9
Woodmeal 10 Nitroglycerin 6
Nitroglycerin 10 Barium sulfate 7
Sodium chloride 20 Dextrin 8
Magnesium carbonate 1
[6> Ammonium nitrate 75
[5> Ammonium nitrate 88 Aluminum powder 25
Charcoal powder 12
[8> Ammonium nitrate 64
[7> Ammonium nitrate 94 TNT 15
Potassium nitrate 2 Sodium chloride 21
Charcoal powder 4
[10> Ammonium nitrate 35
[9> Ammonium nitrate 60 Potassium nitrate 33
Woodmeal 10 TNT 15
Nitroglycerin 10 Ammonium chloride 20
Sodium chloride 20
The formulas listed above are for high explosives. They are not for
cherry bombs or Roman candles. The ingredients that make up these formulas
have several functions: The first is the explosive agent itself, the second is
the stabilizing agent, and third is a texturizer (paraffin). Below are listed
the most important and common ingredients that are used to form an explosive
compound, and a description of their purpose and function.
[Ammonium Nitrate]: An extremely unstable, white explosive, usually in
crystalline form.
[Aluminum]: A silver metallic powder, when in pyro grade, it is a major
ingredient in many ammonal explosive compounds.
[Ammonium Oxalate]: A very valuable stabilizing agent, especially for nitro.
[Barium Nitrate]: Nitrated barium, in white crystalline powdered form.
[Charcoal Powder]: A fine black powder, which is extremely absorbent, and used
extensively in pyrotechnics.
[Guncotton]: Nitrated cellulose (sawdust) is fairly stable, but usually used
with other ingredients rather than alone. It is about 13-14% nitrogen.
[Naphthalene]: This is a sensitizing agent that is normally in a white
crystalline form.
[Paraffin]: This is a primary ingredient in plastique, and acts as a
texturizer.
[Potassium Nitrate]: An explosive compound in itself, which is stable. It is
usually in a white crystalline form.
[Potassium Perchloride]: A white powder used as an igniting agent in high
explosives. It is an extremely common ingredient in low explosives.
[Resin]: A gummy substance, which is flammable, and used in high explosives as
an igniting agent.
[Sodium Carbonate]: This white crystalline powder acts to neutralize acid,
which may make the explosive more unstable than it normally is.
[Sodium Chloride]: This is nothing more than ordinary table salt, and is used
as a cooling agent in many high explosives.
[Sodium Nitrate]: A stable explosive compound which has the advantage of
being water-absorbent.
[Sodium Sulfate]: A stabilizing powder, which is water-resistant.
[Starch]: This can be either potato or corn starch, and acts as an absorbent
in many explosive compounds.
[Sulfur]: A yellow crystalline powder, which should be used in flour form
only.
[Vaseline]: A clear petroleum jelly used in a similar manner as paraffin, as
a plasticizer, for many forms of exploding gelatins and plastic
explosives.
[ ] * Chlorox/Draino Bomb *
Materials:
-2 Jars with metal lids (Baby food)
-1 Bottle chlorox bleach
-1 Bottle of liquid draino
-1 Roll of electrical tape
Fill one of these jars with chlorox and the other with liquid draino. Screw
the lids on both jars and seal them tightly with electrical tape. Tape both
jars together and to ignite this bomb just throw upon a hard surface. The
bottles will break and an explosion will occur. The larger the bottles
(Jars) the larger the effect of the bomb.
[ ] * Soda Bomb/Poison Gas (2X Chlorine Gas Bomb) *
Materials:
-1 Box granulated pool chlorine
-1 Bag of sugar
-1 Bucket of water
-1 Two-liter soda bottle or other glass bottle
-1 Small glass jar with metal lid
Make a mixture of the following: 50% Chlorine, 50% Sugar
Put it in the bottle. Then fill the glass jar with water and put it in the
soda bottle. Throw this bomb at a hard surface, it'll create a explosion
and very harmful fumes.
[ ] * Incendiary Bomb *
First get a 16-Ounce returnable bottle, a tube of caulking, and a considerable
amount of gun powder. Pour the calking into an old pot and warm it over a nice
hot stove until it is plasma-like and gooey. Now, take an old strip of cloth
about 10" long X 3/4" wide. Dip it in the caulking so that it is completely
covered with the stuff. Place the strip in the bottle so as a little bit sticks
out the top. Pout in roughly 3/4 cup of gun powder into the bottom. Fill the
rest of the bottle up with the caulking, let dry, light the cloth. When the gun
powder explodes, it will spew out chards of glass and flaming strands of
caulking (similar to napalm)
[ ] * Coin Changer Fraud *
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports, laudromats
or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar
bill?
1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise,
not the type where you put the bill in a tray then slide the tray in!!!
2. After finding the right machine get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling it
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very
wrinkly surface.
3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side
about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (see figure)
4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out to the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
When you put your bill in, the machine thinks everything is fine. Where
it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will
reject the bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at
the same time!!! So, you end up and get the bill back plus the change!!
It might take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can
become rich!!!
-----------------------------------
! !
! (1) (1) !
! --------- !
! ! ' ' ! !
! ! --- ! !
! (1) [] --------- (1) !
! !! -Washington- !
------[ ]----------------------
^^-----Make notch here. About 1/2 Down from (1)
or try 3.5 cm.
[ ] * Tennis Ball Bomb *
As we know, tennis is a popular sport around the world. In tennis you use
these hollow green balls known as tennis balls. What people do not know is that these
wonderful little balls can be used for other things. They can be used as a handy little
explosive or noise maker.
You will need the following.
1. A tennis ball (new if possible)
2. A knife
3. A box of matches (the type that will strike on anything
4. Epoxy Glue and Strong tape
First you take a knife and cut a small round hole on the tennis ball. Next
you will cut off the match heads of each match and drop them into the hole until the
tennis ball is full of them. Make sure you do not drop the tennis
ball, because it will not be too fun to stay in the hospital. Apply epoxy
glue to the hole, then tape it up very well, so that it is air tight. Make
a few of these and one day when some geek is walking down the street or when
you want to get a big bang or attention, throw the ball. It is not to fun to
be where the ball lands. To make the explosion more powerful, you can use
gun powder mix. Have fun!!!
[ ] * Pop Machine Fraud *
Here is a way to rip off the coke machines you see out side of stores and
other places! ok first on all vending machines there are always those rouund
almost unpickable locks when no one is looking take a peice of air hardening
clayy (make sure it is only air hardening!) and press it into the lock real
good! then remove the clay carefully and put it somewhere to dry! make sure the
clay is TOTALY dry then go back in a day or so and you will have a key to fit
that lock put the key in and push and turn and presto the machine will open
allowing you to take all the money! a good machine will get you between 2100 and
300 dollars depending when it was last checked by the company. and best of all
if someone sees you just put the key on the ground and step on it and its
powder! and then you cant be busted because the evidence is blown away!
so that's it.
[ ] * Car Destruction *
Take an empty tyenol bottle and fill it with liquid draino. Make sure the lid is sealed
good, so it doesn't leak out any liquid draino. Then slip the
bottle into the persons gas tank. What happens is the draino eats through
the bottle and hits the gas, a chemical reaction take place then Kaboom!!!
[ ] * making M-80 and M-100s *
FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a chemical mixture that burns so fast that it appears to burn
instantly, producing a bright flash of light.
Flash powder will produce an extremely loud explosion in amounts larger than
4 ounces even when it is not contained Very small amounts of flash powder will
produce a very loud explosion when contained, even in a container made of a few
layers of paper.
Flash powder is usually made from a very fine powdered metal that will burn and
an oxidizer. Powdered aluminum is used the most because it is cheaper.
Powdered magnesium and zinc will also work. The oxidizer can be Barium Nitrate,
Ammonium Perchlorate, Barium Peroxide, Strontium Nitrate, Potassium Chlorate,
Potassium Perchlorate, Sodium Chlorate, Potassium Permanganate, others, and any
combination of these. All the Chlorate are friction and impact sensitive, and
also the Permanganate. Potassium Perchlorate is the least sensitive of the
Chlorates.
All the chemicals should be crushed into a very fine powder, about 400 Mesh
or smaller. 400 Mesh is about like kitchen type flour.
Black German Aluminum is a brand name for aluminum powder. It has a partical
size of 600 Mesh for 98% of the aluminum material. The other 2% of the material
is larger than 600 Mesh. There are other aluminum powders made by other
companies that are equal to or better than Black German Aluminum.
Aluminum Pyro Powder is also a brand name. The partical size is (98%-400)
or 98% of the material is smaller than 400 Mesh. The other 2% is larger than
400 Mesh.
FLASH POWDER FORMULAS
1. This formula is one of the best. It produces a very, very, extremely loud
explosion. Easy to ignite with a fuse. It is not moisture absorbent.
Not very sensitive to impact or friction. Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate
can be used instead of Potassium Perchlorate but it then becomes very sensitive
to friction and impact. 4 ounces of this mixture will produce an explosion
equal to one stick of dynamite!
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 600 Mesh 1 oz.
2. This formula produces and extremely loud explosion, almost as good as
formula #1. This is what most firecrackers, M-80's and other fireworks are
made with.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
3. This formula is equal to formula #2 It is not sensitive to friction or impact
Barium Peroxide 9 oz.
50%/50% Magnesium aluminum
powder 200 Mesh 1 oz.
4. This formula works as good as formula #2 but it produces a very bright flash.
This formula is what use to be used for the photo flash for the old box type
cameras about 100 years ago
Barium Nitrate 3 oz.
Potassium Perchlorate 3 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 4 oz.
5. This formula works very good. It is not very impact or friction Sensitive. It
produces a very, very loud explosion. Potassium Perchlorate contains 46.1914%
oxygen. Half as powerful as #2.
Potassium Perchlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
6. This formula works as good as #5 but it has a disadvantage of being moisture
absorbent and it is very impact and friction sensitive. Sodium Chlorate contains
45.0937% oxygen. Produces a very, very loud explosion. Equal to #5.
Sodium Chlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 400 Mesh 1 oz.
7. This formula is very dangerous because it is very sensitive to friction and
impact and could explode during the construction of any explosive device.
Potassium Chlorate contains 39.1664% oxygen. This formula produces and explosion
almost equal to #5 or #6. Used in the manufacture of toy cap pistol caps.
Potassium Chlorate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
8. This formula is very, very very sensitive to impact, friction and static
electricity, even more sensitive than #7. Extremely dangerous! Will ignite
even when wet.
Potassium Chlorate 6.7 oz.
Red Phosphorus 2.7 oz.
Sulfur 0.3 oz.
Calcium Carbonate 0.3 oz.
9. This formula has slightly less explosive power than #7. It is slightly
friction and impact sensitive. Potassium Permanganate contains 40.4961% oxygen.
This formula will ignite itself if it gets wet. Very loud explosion.
Potassium Permanganate 2 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
Aluminum Powder 1 oz.
10. This formula produces a very small explosion when ignited in a paper tube.
A much louder explosion is produced when it is ignited in a very strong
container. It is impact and friction sensitive.
Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
11. No information is available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 6 oz.
Antimony Sulfide 3 oz.
Sulfur 1 oz.
12. This formula is a little louder than formula #10. Impact and friction
sensitive. Produces a small explosion in a paper container.
Sodium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Charcoal dust 1.5 oz.
Sulfur 1.0 oz.
13. No information is available about this formula.
Potassium Chlorate 7.5 oz.
Gallic acid 2.2 oz.
Red gum 0.3 oz.
!CAUTION!
The mixture of any chlorate with phosphorus or sulfur is extremely sensitive to
friction and percussion and explodes with great violence.
Chlorate explosives must not be stored together with ammonium nitrate
explosives, since ammonium chlorate which is formed when these two substances
are brought in contact, explodes.
When mixing chlorate explosives, crush all of the chemicals separately. Sift
the oxidizer through a piece of screen wire to break up the material into small
pieces. Then sift the other chemicals also if they need it.
Mix all of the flash powder chemicals together and mix well by sifting them
through a piece of screen wire or by shaking them in a ZIP LOCK bag. This
mixture is very sensitive to friction, impact, heat, spark, static electricity
4 ounces of flash powder has the same explosive power as one stick of dynamite.
One gross of M-80 firecrackers is equal to 3 sticks of dynamite.
8 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-80 type firecrackers if each M-80
contains 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.
M-80's with 1/4 teaspoon of flash powder produces an explosion that sounds
almost exactly the same as M-80's with 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder, but it
has less destructive power.
24 ounces of flash powder will make 100 M-100 type firecrackers. (And these are
awsome!)
Quick Conversions:
3 teaspons = 1 tablespoon
4 tablespoons = 1/4 cup
1/4 cup = 2 oz.
M-80 & M-100 CONSTRUCTION
-------------------------
1. PLUG ONE END OF THE PAPER TUBE.
Run a small amount of Elmer's glue around the side of an end plug or the inside
edge of the paper tube. Insert the end plug, convex side first, into the paper
tube. Push it in until the back edge of the plug is flush with the edge of the
paper tube.
2. FUSE THE PAPER TUBE.
Using a 1/8 inch drill bit, an ice pick or a sharp nail, punch a hole through
one side of the paper tube in the middle. NEVER puncture a case that contains
flash powder. The paper tube should always be fused before the flash powder is
added. Cut the fuse to 1 1/2 inches in length and insert it into the hole at
least halfway across the inside diameter of the paper tube. Run a small amount
of Elmer's glue around the fuse and let it dry.
3. MIXING THE FLASH POWDER
Extreme caution should be used when mixing flash powder. Flash powder is
extremely dangerous and explodes with great force. Avoid all sources of
friction, impact, flame, sparks and static electricity.
4. FILL THE PAPER TUBES
Stand the paper tubes on end, open end up. Using a small funnel and a measuring
spoon 1/2 teaspoon, fill the paper tubes 1/2 to 2/3 full. Do not fill the tubes
completely full or pack in the flash powder. By leaving an air space there is
room for the flash powder to expand when ignited which will produce a much
louder explosion.
5. INSERT THE FINAL END PLUG
Plug the open end in the same way that you plugged the first end.
MATERIALS NEEDED FOR ONE M-80
1. One paper tube, 1/2 inch inside diameter, 1/16 inch wall thickness,
1 1/2 inches long.
2. Two paper end plugs 1/2 inch outside diameter, 1/16 inch paper thickness.
3. One 3/32 diameter water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.
4. 1/2 teaspoon of flash powder.
5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue.
__ ___________ __
end | o | end
plug __| ___________ |__ plug
fuse ^ hole
|
______|_____
|M80 or M100 |
|____________|
MATERIALS NEED FOR ONE M-100
----------------------------
1. One paper tube, 5/8 inch inside diameter, 1 3/4 inch long
2. Two paper end plugs 5/8 inch outside diameter.
3. One water proof fuse about 1 1/2 inches long.
4. 1 1/2 teaspoons of flash powder.
5. 10 drops of Elmer's glue
CHEMICALS
---------
Most of the chemicals you need are sold at K-mart, hardware stores, drug stores,
lumber yards, plumbing supply, Wall-mart, cement company and many other stores.
Sodium Chlorate. O2 solid oxygen pellets are used in small work shop torches.
Potassium Nitrate. Sold by most drug stores in 4 ounce bottles. Also sold by
farmers co-op supply stores.
Sulfur. Sold by farmers co-op, drug stores and lawn and garden centers.
Aluminum Powder. Sold by paint stores and auto parts stores. Aluminum powder
can be found in radiator stop leak.
Sodium Nitrate. Sold by drug stores and meat packing plants.
Antimony Sulfide. Is sold by most plumbing supply stores.
Potassium Permanganate. It is used for water treatment. Check your phone book
for water treatment equipment and supplies.
Ammonium Nitrate. Can be bought from any farmers co-op or lawn and garden
center.
Red Phosphorus. The white tip on wooden kitchen matches contains red phosphorus
Check your phone book yellow pages for industrial chemical supplies, they will
usually have most of these chemicals.
When you call, tell them you are with a beginning rock band and want it for
some special effects on stage. They will fall for that every time...
Now you probably wonder where you can get the paper tubes and end caps. Ok
just write:
FULL AUTO CO. INC.
P.O. Box 1881
Murfreesboro, TN. 37133
And ask for a catalog. M-80 size tubes are 100-$5. End plugs are 200-$3.5
M-100 size tubes are 100-$9. End plugs are 200-$5. You must have an order
form to order this. They also sell all the chemicals you need to make
flash powder. You must be over 21 or at least sign the order that says that
you are 21. There is no way that they can find out. I DO NOT suggest that you
buy their water proof fuse because it sucks! Go to a gun shop in your area and
ask for cannon fuse. It's probably around 35 to 40 cents a foot and is water
proof and MUCH better quality. You do have to be 16 or 18 to buy it.
[ ] *TWENTY WAYS TO DISRUPT SCHOOL ASSEMBLIES*
Basically anti-social, anti-establishment? Hate school? Who doesn't!
Here's 20 things to screw up those JOCK-O-RAMA pep rallies and various other
senseless assemblies in your fascist school...just TRY to have fun..
1. When the cheerleaders start bouncing (literally) around trying to get all
the wretched students to do their demonic, assinine chants (Beat 'em up
beat 'em up, rah rah rah! Snap those spinal cords, ha ha ha!" , you
should get everyone to chant something like "The New Discipline Management
Plan SUCKS - The New Discipline Management Plan SUCKS!" etc.
2. When the cheerleaders yell, "Are you ready!??"--You yell reeeal loud,
"NO!"
3. After their cheers yell stuff like, "Violence Rulez! Guns R cool!
And we've got guns, in our school!"
4. Yell cheerleader, twirlers, football players names when they are
introduced or just simply to embarrass them...
5. Stand up and ask in a loud voice for one of the cheerleaders to marry you.
6. Say in a loud voice, "I gotta go to the bathroom!" then walk down in the
middle of the pep rally and leave.
If they try to stop you, just start hoping up and down like you can't hold
it...They'll let ya go...when they say, "ok, you can go!", run as fast as you can to a
remote bathroom(i.e.-home) where they can't follow you...
7. When a twirler drops her baton or a cheerleader messes up, laugh as loud
as you can...i mean REALLY LAUGH HARD!
8. If like the principle comes up behind you and sits, turn around and say,
"Ok, Mr. So-n-So, on the count of three yell, Down with Mr. So-n-So
(his name in both places)
9. Get those air horns and rig it up to where when someone sits down, it'll
go off....everone will look around dumbfounded to see who's doing it...
They'll never know...
10. Water Balloons is a definate possibly, but i don't suggest it...yesterday
at ours, i was playing with this purple balloon like a beachball...ya
know, bouncing it between people and 'accidently' letting it get away from
you where hopefully someone will pop it...or you could just pop a few
yourself
11. If you're terribly brave or stupid you can stand up and yell, "East
Lubbock/Wherever Rulez!" or "Beaners suck!"
12. The airhead cheerleaders ask you to yell, right? Yell at all times...
even when it's supposed to be semi-quiet...
13. Make a fire.
14. Spray the cheerleaders pom-poms with that dog training stuff or fart spray
15. If you're in the band, play the music that you think is more suiting for a
pep rally...
16. Scream anti-scholastic things during the school song
17. DO a complete reversal and dance to the fight song...(this one is good if
you are sitting near the front or the middle)...just stand up and dance
and sing the words if ya know 'em!
18. (this one is unlikely for some reason...) Write your name or the opposing
teams name on the gym/football field with like kerosine and light'er up!
19. Get snap -n- pops and sit at the top and throw 'em at everone.(heh)
20. Lock 'em up! That's right! Get chains and lock all doors to the gym...
..then ya got 2000 angry students with only 15 teachers..I dunno who would
want out worse, the students or the teachers...heh.
(I tried alot of these for the first pep rally of the season at my stupid
private school...I didn't get to try the things that required planning
(burning the school down, lock ups, air horn, ect) but I did do all of the
yells and dancing and proposing marriage, chanting, singing, ect.)
Thanks to myself for writing this file, and the corrupt administrators for
giving me something to write about...
[ ] * How to have fun at school *
Your first day of school you should bring the following items, to insure a
prosperous school year:
1) Fountain pen (and extra ink refills)
2) 3 tubes of Super Glue (Krazy Glue)
3) Pennies (about $1.00 worth)
4) Baloons (small sized for convieniance)
5) Mirror (small hand held)
6) Liquid soap
7) Lighter, (matches as alternate)
8) Firecrackers (ladyfingers are great)
9) Screwdrivers and other tools (small)
10) Small squeezable bottles (like nasal de-congestant type)
11) Wire (10-20 ft)
12) Tape recorder mic. (batter operated pref.)
13) Ziplock baggies
14) Half of an orange
15) Ligth bulb (75 watts and over are great)
This will do for now... Some of the cool things to do are, take the pennies
and glue them to the cafeteria tables, (and watch the custodians try to get
'em off). (this also looks good with silver dollars glued to the fire alarm
(so it goes off when the custodian attempts to remove the coin) and to a door
someplace.... (principals preferably))
Another thing to do with a coin is, heat it up over a bunson burner (in chem)
and just as the bell rings, toss the coin into the hall, I will guarantee you
will know when the coin is picked up... While your using the bunson burner,
fill your little squeeze bottle with gas, then cap it tight and put it in your
pocket... later, take a firecracker, and glue it to the bottle, use a
cigarette as a fuse extension, then put it in the bathroom, and get to class
fast... (gas and glue make a nice flame)...
While your in the bathroom, place a light bulb over the door, and when the
superintendant goes to see what the explosion was, he gets a nice little
surprise...
Now for the wire, if you can access a room near your locker, when no one is in
the room, take off the speaker cover on the pa system, and hook 2 wires from
it, to your mic. ( then into your locker) This is good for getting your
friends out of classes... Just ask for them... (use your tools for that one,
and try to be neat about it)...
Now for your mirror, you can use this for getting your, uh... "Friends" locker
combanation.... after you get that, take that little baggie you got, and put
the orange in it... let it sit for a week or four, then open the baggie, and
place it in your friends locker... I can guarentee he/she will love it...
Another thing that is fun to do, is, Take a penny, and glue it over the key
hole on your friends gym locker, just after he goes out, thus he has to truck
around all day in his gym stuff, (unless you rent him your screwdriver to pry
the penny off)
Ballons are fun to play with in chem lab, fill them with the gas that you get
out of the taps on the lab desks, then tie up the baloon tight, and drop it
out the window to the burnouts below, you know, the ones that are always
smoking, they love to pop baloons with lit cigaretts.... get the picture?
Good...
Those fountain pens are cool, because if you make a slight jerking motion with
your hand, ink squirts all over the room, (or person, what ever your aiming
at) It is a good idea not to let the teachers know you have one of those, it
makes it too easy to find out who did it when theres ink all over the
principals face... (or on the floors, walls, and ceilings...)
Liquid soap is great for use in crowded hallways, it turns everybody into a
ice skating star, (works especially well when people come in from the rain)...
If your school is anything like the one I goto, people never flush the
toiletts, A little liquid soap in here makes for a nice surprise, I mean, what
happens when the soap is not flushed out of the toilett, and the suds are'nt
flushed out either? The janitors have a really good time trying to figure out
that one... (glue a quarter in one of the urinals, always ane)... Turn off the
water under the sinks too... Getting back to the soap, it is also good on the
hand railings in hallways and on steps, If you mix perfume with it, some poor
grub has to have that stench on him all day....
I shall start off with some of the cool aspects of a school cafeteria. As most
of you know, this is not a very nice place, or atleast it's not very nice in my
school., you have to get out there and catch the food before it gets away...
but in any case...
1) School Cafeterias: In this ever growing world of terrorism, and practical
jokes, you should learn the basic methods and uses of ketchup. This red stuff
that they use to cover the mold on the french-fries, makes a nice stain on
peoples clothing. So... take a few packets of ketchup, and during phys. Ed.
you take the pack and put little holes in it, then put it in someones back
pocket, (preferably white pants), do this while they are out in the gym, and
you are alone in the locker room... It's a gas when they get up after pulling
their pants on and there 'Bleeding...'...
2) Marbles are very cool... especially glass ones and steel ones, what you do
is, get into your 'Friends' locker and (if he/she has a shelf) take a book and
brace it up at an angle, and leave them alot of marbles to play with... so
when they open their locker, they should have no problem watching them spill
all over the floor... then they get little questions like 'Hey man, did you
loose all your marbles?' and 'Is this a throw back to your child hood?'. This
is even better when they have to go out in the middle of a class period and
when all the marbles fall out he has teachers all over him asking 'What do you
think your doing?' and the ever popular 'Wheres your pass?'...
3) You can improve on the marbles scheme by using water/perfume filled baloons
or plastic baggies. 'Cause, howd you like to go around smelling like a flower
all day long (if your a boy), if your a girl, then your a wet flower... your
'Friend' walks down the hallway 'Squish. Squish Squish' from all the water in
their sneakers...
4) Do any of your parents have old contact lens fluid bottles? (small) If so
then your in luck... if you fill these with water and walk down a crowded hall
you can have alot of fun... Spray your victem so it looks like he/she took a
leak in thier pants... in a crowded hall-way, the'll never notice till someone
says.. 'Hey, Professor Leaky... Turn off the faucets...'... If you want to be
even meaner, then you can take the bottle and fill it with the juices from a
rotten egg.. now its' one thing to piss in your pants, but if you go around
smelling like rotten eggs all day, whew... I can almost guarntee a suspension
or a free trip home... (very embarrasing)...
5) During your free period, goto a pay phone and call the front office, and
have your victim paged to the front office... tell the front office that you
are the boy/girls father and your coming to pick them up for an emergency
doctors appointment... and to go and get his/her books... then they sit in the
front office for 1/2 an hour, (and miss class).. then they say ' Hey, did you
and some of your friends pull this stunt so you wouldnt have to goto
class?!?!.. Goto the principals office NOW!' Good 'eh?
6) Heres some fun to have at the library... goto the magazine rack and replace
the Sports Ill. and the other widely read magazines with Playboy and some of
the others... (rip off the Sports. Ill. cover and put Playboy inside) You
should see the expressions on the girls faces when they open that sucker up...
(or on the teachers faces)...
7) Hide a cheap radio ($3.00 things that you get from radio shack (am)) and
set it to blast when the locker is opend. (set it on some queer station) To
set the wiring up.. Open up the radio and disconnect one of the wires going to
the switch, turn the switch on. Now take the wire you just disconnected and
run it to another switch, and a wire from the other end of that switch to the
old switch... now tape the switch into the locker in a way that whenever the
locker is opend, the switch will go on, and whenever the door closes, the
switch will go off... this is embarrasing, especially when you cant find the
radio to turn it off...
Have you ever noticed that the water fountains in schools have two holes in
them (for the water to come out of)... I have no idea why they are there...
(maybe some one put them there for us to put to some GOOD use), take some
chewing gum and plug up the bottom hole, this is great because that forces the
water out of the top hole at HIGH PRESSURE thus getting alot of people wet
(espoecially the person getting the drink)... to give you an estimate of how
much power there is, in our school, the auto shop ceiling is about 20 ft up,
and when the gum is in place the water hits the ceiling (if it wasnt there it
would continue another 5 to 10 feet...)
You people have all seen those little toy pellet guns that shoot the little
yellow plastic BB's... well, these are good in the hallways between classes
(or out the windows at the people that are cutting classes) just be carefull not
to hit people in the eyes... (un-less it is intentional)
I dont know if this is standard in all schools (I suppose this will pertain to
some of you), you may have these long 'Airconditioner/Heaters' (they never
work) BUT... in our school these heaps of junk have a small opening for a 5/32
Allen key, these are usefull for turning off the cold air in the winter and
turning it on in the warmer months...)
Itching powder is fun... (especialy if theres someone in front of you in a
class or two that you dont like..) just dump a little of this down there back.
WHAT? You dont have any... well, as I said before, I work in a hardware store
and I can tell you for a FACT that the fiberglass in isulation itches ALL DAY!
all you have to do is get some insulation and shake it out onto a peice of
newspaper (tear it up a little if you have to) and soon you will have a small
pile of shards of fiberglass.. put it into a small baggie or film container,
and keep it in class with you... NOTE: Use gloves when you do this... this
WILL drive you insane by the end of the day if you get any into your hands...
Do you have any dead animals laying around? A dead rat or some animal you have
scraped up off the road? If not you should have one... you take them into the
bathrooms at school and lift off the top (exposing the flush mechanism) and
you insert the animal into there... if it's warm, and moist then this animal
will start to rot, and smell extreamly bad... you may get lucky (if they cant
find it) you MAY even get a day off from school while they look for it...
Hey, if your school has a computer classroom that has a small multi-plexer (so
the teacher can see what you are doing)... well.. have some fun.. change the
cables around so the teacher does not know who she is looking at (or you can
make your terminal the master terminal.
*Bathroom Bombs*
Materials: A birthday or other small candle
1 M-80
Silly Putty
Scrape off the bottom of the candle so that a half inch wick is on the
bottom. Tie the end of the wick to the fuse of the M-80. Place a small
ammount of silly putty on one side of the candle, and a small ammount on one
side of the M-80. Use as little as possible, just enough to make it stick!
Now the hard part, you need to lean over and stick the candle and the M-80 to
the underside of the toilet. Be careful and make sure no one is going to
dunk you. Light the candle and get out of the bathroom as calmly as possible.
You have anywhere from thirty seconds to one minute so you have time to wash
your hands and act normal. Make sure that you are nowhere NEAR the bathroom
because the teachers will interogate anyone in the vicinity of the area.
Now you can have a BLAST at school! (Litterally)
*The Cigarette Flash*
Materials: Filterless Cigarette
Lighter
Small Viel of Thinner
Matchbook
This on is FUN! Splash the thinner all over the toilet paper in the
stall. Open the matchbook and place the cigarette in the match book so
that the matchbook holds the cigarette in place firmly. Place the
combination matchbook/cigarette under the toilet paper any way you can fit
it in there. Now the fun part. Light the cigarette and get out of the stall
calmly. With this you have between two and five minutes (2-5) so you have
plenty of time to act normal and leave the bathroom at a steady pace!!
/\
/CC\
/ \\ <---- Place the cigarette between the top and the matches
/ \\
___________
| TTTTTTT |
| TTTTTTT | <---- Put the matchbook/cigarette under the thinner soaked
| Match | toilet paper.
-----------
Now have FUN! And be smart....don't spill the thinner all over
yourself unless you want to burn in hell (Pun)!! Hello! And welcome
to...ummm...issue #6 of Firecracker FUN! In
this issue we will discuss the FLAMER which is the final issue of mild
firecracker fun. The next 5-8 issues will be called: "Flaming GLORY!"
and will hols some more potent things OTHER THAN firecrackers and oil!
Sooo....I hope that you enjoyed this series and I REALLY hope that you
look forward to all my future series and issues!
Materials: 1/4 gallon gasoline
1/4 gallon oil
6 inch candle
LOTS of toilet paper!!!
This one is scary....and FUN! At home mix the 1/4 gallon of
gasoline with the 1/4 gallon of oil. Place the mixture in a gallon bag
that is easy to conceal. At school put the toilet paper in the toilet
until it reaches the level of the water. Take the candle and place it
firmly into the toilet paper so that it will stay upright for about 5
minutes. After all that slowly pour the mixture gas/oil into the toilet.
Light the candle and you will have 10-15 minutes to get out. This one is
pretty scary if you are in the bathroom at the time! There is NO noise
but if you are anywhere NEAR the stall you will see a LARGE flame leap
up into the air!! KEWL!
[ ] * Fun with Fireworks *
There are MANY ways to have fun with firecrackers....but the best
are when you can actually use them. My favorite ways are the Tube, the
rocket, and the big bang.
The tube us a relatively normal arrangement...just that all the
bottle rockets should go off at the same time. But what you do is take
three or four bottle rockets (the kind with the plastic caps) and fill
the caps with some type of contact explosive. Then tape them all together
with duct or electric tape. Then tie all the fuses together and place
into a metal tube. Light fuse and have fun....try not to blow off your
hand or other body part! By the way....you do not really need to fill
the cap with an explosive....but it add's to the BANG!!
---------000000> <---- Fill cap with contact explosive
---------00XX00>
---------00XX00> <---- Tape all together!
---------00XX00>
---------00XX00>
---------00XX00> <---- Tie all fuses together
---------00XX00>
Place them in a pipe and have fun
*The Rocket*
Materials: A 2 or 3 Stage Rocket
Superglue
Tape
Shredded Paper
M-80 firecracker
All other equipment for launching
Any 2 or 3 stage rocket will work fine. You must be willing to
to loose a rocket so I suggest not painting, because it would be just
a waste of time and money. You can get a good 3 stage rocket for under
$30 and the M-80's you can buy at almost any firecracker store for
between $.80 - $1.00!!
First put the rocket together. Then place the boosters in the
bottom stage(s). In the uppermost stage glue the M-80 into place with
the fuse pointing downward. Place the end of the fuse onto the upper
part of the adjoining booster and tape it into place with a small piece
of tape. Fill the paracute area sparcely with shredded paper. Wait until
the glue holding the M-80 dries and then finish putting the rocket
together. Now you are ready to go! But be smart...don't launch the rocket
in someone's face or into a building unless you are willing to take
responsibility for it! And try not to kill yourself in the process!
What is supposed to happen is as you launch the rocket the first
stage's booster burns with an extremely high intensty and heat. As the
booster nears the to it ignites a flameable substance that pushes upward
igniting the booster above it and ejecting it from the rest of the rocket.
When the substance shoots upward into the M-80 it will ignite the fuse or
it will detonate the M-80 immediatly (I am not sure which). Then as the
M-80 detonates it will blow the cap of the rocket off ejecting anything
in the paracute chamber.
BBBBOOOOOOO> <---- Place booster in the bottom stage(s)
BBBBM-80OOO> <---- Glue M-80 in stage above booster and tape fuse
BBBBM-80PPP> <---- Put shredded paper in paracute chamber
*Big BANG*
Materials: 10-15 M-80's
Long fuse...2 feet
Duct or Electric Tape
LUCK!!!
Ok. Now. Put all the M-80's into a circle packed as tightly
together as possible. Next put two or even three layers of tape arround
the group of M-80's. Connect all the fuses together pointing inward and
tie (If you tape it use as little tape as possible) it to the long
piece of fuse. Then place upright or if you want to have fun, bury it a
foot underground (if you do this you must have a straw or a pipe leading
the fuse into the ground) and light the fuse. Now what you have here is
like two or three sticks of dynamite, so get as far away as possible
and hit the ground!! The explosion will be a HELL of a lot louder than
a small stick of dynamite so cover your ears, don't be a hero and go
deaf!
[ ] *How To Make Low Explosives*
There are many formulas for low explosives, which, although they do not have the
power or impact of the high explosives, are generally safer to use and handle.
It may seem at first that an explosive compound that has less power is a
disadvantage, but this is not true. If a high-explosive charge were used to set
off a bullet in a gun, the gun would probably explode in the user's face.
Therefore, low explosives have a definite purpose and use, and are not
interchangeable with high explosives. Although I stated above that, generally
speaking, low explosives are more stable than high explosives, there are some
low-explosive compounds that are as dangerous as high-explosive compounds,
if not more so. Below is a chart of the most common low-explosive compounds and
their stabilities and merit.
[Potassium and sodium nitrate gunpowders]: These are without a doubt one of
the safest low explosives to handle. They are especially good when
packed into a tight container, and exploded under pressure.
[Smokeless powder]: This type of low explosive is much like the one mentioned
above, in the sense that it is extremely stable, but it is much more
powerful. It also needs the element of pressure in the actual
demolition work.
[Potassium chlorates with sulfates]: Any mixture of potassium or sodium
chlorates should be avoided at all costs, since most combinations will
explode immediately, on formation, and those that don't are extremely
unstable and likely to explode at any time.
[Ammonium nitrate with chlorates]: This is similar to the compounds discussed
above. These are extremely hazardous compounds, with very unstable
ingredients.
[Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus]: This combination is probably the
most unstable and highly sensitive of all the low explosives. It will
explode immediately and violently upon formation, even in the open
when not under pressure.
[Aluminum or megnesium with potassium chlorate or sodium peroxide]: Any of
these combinations, although not quite as unstable as the one
discussed above, is still too sensitive to experiment or play around
with.
[Barium chlorate with shellac gums]: Any mixture employing either barium or
barium nitrate and carbon, or barium chlorate and any other substance,
must be given great care. Barium nitrate and strontium nitrate mixed
together form a very sensitive explosive, but the danger is greatly
increased with the addition of charcoal, or carbon.
[Barium and strontium nitrate with aluminum and potassium perchlorate]: This
combination is relatively safe, as is the combination of barium
nitrate and sulfur, potassium nitrate, and most other powdered metals.
[Guanidine nitrate and a combustible]: This combination of guanidine nitrate
and a combustible (i.e. powdered antimony) is one of the safest of all
low explosives.
[Potassium bichromate and potassium permanganate]: This is a very sensitive
and unstable compound, and should be avoided, as it is really too
hazardous to work with or handle.
The low-explosive reaction is based on the principle of a combustible
material combined with an oxidizing agent, in other words combining a material
that burns easily with another material which in the chemical reaction will
supply the necessary oxygen for the combustible's consumption. Listed below
are the most common low-explosive combinations of oxidizing agents and
combustibles. The first ingredient listed is the oxidizer, and the second is
the combustible:
[1> Nitric acid and resin.
[2> Barium nitrate and magnesium.
[3> Ammonium nitrate and powdered aluminum.
[4> Barium peroxide and zinc dust.
[5> Ammonium perchlorate and asphaltum.
[6> Sodium chlorate and shellac gum.
[7> Potassium nitrate and charcoal.
[8> Sodium peroxide and flowers of sulfur.
[9> Magnesium perchlorate and woodmeal.
[10> Potassium perchlorate and cane sugar.
[11> Sodium nitrate and sulfur flour.
[12> Potassium bichromate and antimony sulfide.
[13> Guanidine nitrate and powdered antimony.
[14> Potassium chlorate and red phosphorus.
[15> Potassium permanganate and powdered sugar.
[16> Barium chlorate and parrafin wax.
The combinations that are most unstable and sensitive are numbers
3, 5, 7, 13, 14, 15, and 16. These should be avoided.
[ ] * How to Make Nitroglycerine
As most people know, nitroglycerin is an extremely powerful explosive,
used largely today by industry, and made in huge cement mixers that hold
hundreds of gallons. It is not safe to make, and you shouldn't even think of
making any unless you plan to use it (and don't make more than you need). I
hope anyone who does make some has had atleast some chemistry and a little bit
of brains.
MATERIALS:
1) 70% concentrated nitric acid
2) 98% concentrated sulfuric acid
3) Glycerin
4) Baking soda
5) A *GOOD* thermometer and glassware (beakers, glass rod-stirring device,
test tubes, eyedropper, whatever--must be all glass materials though.
Acid eats everything else. Also, whatever you use to hold your
solutions should have as thin a glass wall as possible--to diffuse heat
faster.)
6) Very large ice-bath
7) Gloves, Goggles, etc.
8) Blue litmus paper
9) Kitchen sink
OBTAINING MATERIALS:
Nitric acid can be bought for about $19+ per gallon (it's cheaper to buy
in this quantity). You need to be 21, but some chemical places don't care.
Sulfuric acid can be bought the same way, at $14+ per gallon.
Glycerine can be bought at any drug store. You won't need half as much
glycerine as acid. The actual quantity and ratio varies--and is really
unimportant in this recipe.
The thermometer and glassware, etc., can be bought by anyone, but it's
cheaper to 'borrow' from chem lab. If you have to buy, there should be a
place near any college campus that sells the stuff.
THE REACTION:
H
!
H-C-O-NO2
!
H-C-O-NO2 ===========> N2 + CO2 + O2 + H2O
!
H-C-O-NO2
!
H
PROCEDURE:
1) Mix by volume 3 parts sulfuric acid with 1 part nitric. Add the
sulfuric to the nitric *NOT* vice versa (you never add water to acid because
it splatters, and the nitric is 30% water). Your beaker/test tube should be
contained in the ice bath because this solution is gets *HOT*--but isn't
dangerous, yet. Stir a little bit, but don't put your face right over it
(vapors). Wait til it cools to 0-5 degrees centigrade. You'll need to rig
some kind of contraption, if you don't have the proper lab equipment, in order
to keep the thermometer from touching the edge of the beaker/test tube--an
accurate reading is *VERY* important.
2) Once the acids are cool enough you can start adding glycerin. While
stirring constantly, use the eyedropper and add about 5 drops. If the heat
doesn't rise, add 8 drops, and see what happens. Keep adding larger amounts
until the temperature rises. Once it does, wait (don't stop stirring til at
least 30 seconds after adding glycerine) for the temperature to drop back down
to 0-5 degreees centigrade. DON'T EVER LET THE TEMPERATURE GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE--If you do, you lose. It might not blow up, but it will
decompose, and you'll get nothing but garbage (the person who designed this
recipe has had it go as high as 40 and not explode). To be safe, keep it
below 20 degrees centigrade, and if it gets above that, dump the whole thing
in the ice bath (there better be plenty of ice too, cause sulfur and water
react, and you need plenty of ioce to keep that reaction cool). The
nitroglycerin reaction is done when the glycerine you add no longer affects the
temperature.
3) The nitroglycerin is slowly decomposing at this point, so you want to
work fast here. The sulfuric has only been a catalyst for the reaction and
needs to be washed out. Fill a container 10x the volume of your solution with
ice water (again, ice is important cause sulfur and water react giving off
enough heat to set off the nitro) and add your solution to it. Stir
thoroughly (nitro and water don't mix). Let the nitro seperate (it will
settle to the bottom) and pour off the water (acids and all) down the drain.
Put your saolution under the tap and add more water. Stir again and let
settle (settling can be helped by adding a little of ordinary dishsoap--like
half a drop). Pour off again. Repeat the process 3 or 4 times. Make sure
*ALL* the water is poured off (to get the last little bit, try dragging paper
it stays blue, everything is fine. If it turns red, wash your solution a few
more times.
4) After the solution is 'clean', wash with a baking soda solution (1
tsp./ quart of water). Follow the same steps outlined above, but only wash
once. Pour your final solution into a glass bottle. Put in the fridge.
CAUTIONS:
First of all, store nitroglycerin in a cool place--like the fridge (or try
the freezer. I don't know what the freezing point is). Label it so nobody
accidently dumps it or drinks it. If you still live at home, then bury it in
the fridge and disguise it so your parents wouldn't want to touch it or
examine it. You don't really need to keep it that cold. You could fairly
safely store it in your closet. Although if you live in an area with extreme
heat (like Palm Springs) it might not be a good idea. Don't breath the vapors
or swallow any--you'll get a short but incredible headache. If you touch some
you'll get the headache of your life that will last up to 12 hours.
DETONATION:
What you wil probably want to try as soon as you make nitroglycerin is a
simple little experiment to prove to yourself it works. Put *ONE* drop on a
paper towell and strike with a hammer.
Nitro, in this form, is not all that easy to blow up. Throwing a bottle
of the stuff at a wall or dropping it off a five story building will do
nothing more than break the bottle. The best way to detonate nitroglycerin is
with a wax coated firecracker taped on the inside of your container.
VARIATIONS:
Putty- Mix your final solution with sawdust or diatomacious earth (which
you can get at pool stores) to the consistency of silly putty. All this does
is make your nitro easier to work with.
Flash Paper- This is a little more difficult to make, a little safer, and
maybe more fun. Instead of adding glycerin to your acids in step 2, use gun
cotton (*REAL* cotton). You don't have to watch the temperature either. Just
toss a bunch of cotton in and let it soak up your solution (don't be stupid
though--add them slowly the first time). You don't need to be in as much of a
rush either because it doesn't decompose as fast. You're nitrating the
cotton, so let it sit a couple hours in the mix. Then pour off all the acid
and wash in water (the same way you wash regular nitro), then after it's
fairly clean you can pull out the cotton and wash by hand--*VERY WELL*. Let
the cotton dry out, then put a piece in a jar with a very small amount of
acitone (which you can purchase at any hardware store and is perfectly safe).
The cotton will dissolve like cotton candy in water. Any cotton left in the
jar should be taken out. Now let the acitone evaporate. There will be a
small plastic-like film at the bottom of the jar. You can light this stuff
like flash paper.
Jelly- If you are brave you can dissolve the 'flash paper' in nitro and
get a jelly like substance that is quite powerful and easier to work with.
Use very little nitro and a lot of 'flash paper' (you'll have to experiment to
find what works best for the consistency you want.
[ ] * How to make Nitroglycerine #2 *
1. Fill a 75-milliliter beaker, to the 13-ml level, with fuming red Nitric
Acid, of 98 percent concentration
2. Place beaker in an ice bath and allow to cool below room temperature
3. After it has cooled, add to it three times the amount of fuming Nitric
Acid 39 milliliters of fuming Sulfuric Acid. When mixing any acids,
always do it slowly and carefully to avoid splattering.
4. When the two are mixed, lower their temperature by adding more ice to the
ice bath, to about 10 or 15 degrees centigrade. This can be measured by
using a mercury-operated centigrade thermometer.
5. When the acid solution has cooled to the desired temperature, it is ready
for the Glycerine. The Glycerine must be added in small amounts using a
medicine dropper. Glycerine is added, slowly and carefully, until the
entire surface is covered with it.
6. This is a dangerous point, since the nitration will take place soon as
the Glycerine is added. The nitration will produce heat, so the solution
must be kept below 30 degrees Celsius. If the beaker should go above
30 degrees, the beaker should be taken out of the ice bath and the
solution should be carefully poured directly into the ice bath, since
this will prevent an explosion
7. For about the first ten minutes of nitration, the mixture should be
gently stirred. In a normal reaction, the Nitroglycerine will form a
layer on top of the acid solution, while the Sulfuric Acid absorbs the
excess water.
8. After the nitration has taken place and the Nitroglycerine has formed at
the top of the solution, the entire beaker should be transferred very
slowly and carefully to another beaker of water. When this is done the
Nitroglycerine will settle to the bottom, so that most of the acid
solution can be drained away.
9. After moving as much acid as possible without disturbing the
Nitroglycerine, remove the Nitroglycerine with an eyedroper and place it
in a bicarbonate of soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) solution. The Sodium
Bicarbonate is an alkali and will nutralize much of the acid remaining.
This process should be repeated as many times as necessary using blue
litmus paper to check for the presence of acid. The remaining acid only
makes the Nitroglycerine more unstable then it normally is.
10. The final step is to remove the Nitroglycerine from the bicarbonate this
is done with an eyedropper, slowly and carefully. The usual test to see
if nitration has been successful is to place one drop of the
Nitroglycerine on a metal plate and ignite it. If it is true
Nitroglycerine it will burn with a clear blue flame. Caution:
Nitroglycerine is extremely sensitive to decomposition, heating,
dropping, or jarring, and may explode even left undisturbed and cool.
Know what you are doing before you make this stuff.
[*Nitroglycerine #3*]
Nitroglycerine is one of the most sensitive explosives, if it is not
the most sensitive. Although it is possible to make it safely, it is difficult.
Many a young anarchist has been killed or seriously injured while trying to
make the stuff. When Nobel's factories make it, many people were killed by the
all-to-frequent factory explosions. Usually, as soon as it is made, it is
converted into a safer substance, such as dynamite. An idiot who attempts
to make nitroglycerine would use the following procedure:
MATERIAL EQUIPMENT
distilled water eye-dropper
table salt 100 ml beaker
sodium bicarbonate 200-300 ml beakers (2)
concentrated nitric ice bath container
acid (13 ml) ( a plastic bucket serves well )
concentrated sulfuric centigrade thermometer
acid (39 ml) blue litmus paper
glycerine
1) Place 150 ml of distilled water into one of the 200-300 ml beakers.
2) In the other 200-300 ml beaker, place 150 ml of distilled water and about
a spoonful of sodium bicarbonate, and stir them until the sodium bicarbonate
dissolves. Do not put so much sodium bicarbonate in the water so that some
remains undissolved.
3) Create an ice bath by half filling the ice bath container with ice, and
adding table salt. This will cause the ice to melt, lowering the overall
temperature.
4) Place the 100 ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker will not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow into the beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a large enough ice bath
container to add more ice. Bring the temperature of the acid down to about 20
degrees centigrade or less.
5) When the nitric acid is as cold as stated above, slowly and carefully add the
39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the nitric acid. Mix the two acids
together, and cool the mixed acids to 10 degrees centigrade. It is a good
idea to start another ice bath to do this.
6) With the eyedropper, slowly put the glycerine into the mixed acids, one drop
at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the mixture where the mixed
acids and glycerine meet. DO NOT ALLOW THE TEMPERATURE TO GET ABOVE 30
DEGREES CENTIGRADE; IF THE TEMPERATURE RISES ABOVE THIS TEMPERATURE, RUN
LIKE HELL!!! The glycerine will start to nitrate immediately, and the
temperature will immediately begin to rise. Add glycerine until there is a
thin layer of glycerine on top of the mixed acids. It is always safest to
make any explosive in small quantities.
7) adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of the solution
in the 100 ml beaker well below 30 degrees centigrade. Usually, the
nitroglycerine will form on the top of the mixed acid solution, and the
concentrated sulfuric acid will absorb the water produced by the reaction.
8) When the reaction is over, and when the nitroglycerine is well below 30
degrees centigrade, slowly and carefully pour the solution of nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the distilled water in the beaker in step 1. The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the nitroglycerine.
9) Carefully remove the nitroglycerine with a clean eye-dropper, and place it
into the beaker in step 2. The sodium bicarbonate solution will eliminate
much of the acid, which will make the nitroglycerine more stable, and less
likely to explode for no reason, which it can do. Test the nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat this step if
necessary, and use new sodium bicarbonate solutions as in step 2.
10) When the nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine is
far away from anything living, or from anything of any value.
Nitroglycerine can explode for no apparent reason, even if it is stored
in a secure cool place.
Nitroglyerine
NITROGLYCERINE IS A *VERY* DANGEROUS SHOCK SENSITIVE EXPLOSIVE. IT IS
USED
IN MAKING DYNAMITE, AMONG OTHER THINGS.
I AM NOT SURE AS TO THE PROPORTIONS AND AMOUNTS OF CHEMICALS TO BE
USED, SO
I SHALL USE ESTIMATES.
MATERIALS-
70ML CONC. SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONC. NITRIC ACID
10 ML GLYCERINE
ICE BATH
150ML BEAKER
PUT THE 150ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH AND MAKE SURE THAT IT IS VERY COLD.
SLO
WLY ADD THE 70ML SULFURIC AND 30ML NITRIC ACIDS TO THE BEAKER, TRYING TO
MAINTA
IN A LOW TEMPERATURE. WHEN THE TEMPERATURE STARTS TO LEVEL OFF, ADD
ABOUT 10ML
GLYCERINE. IF IT TURNS BROWN OR LOOKS FUNNY, **RUN LIKE HELL**. WHEN
NITROGLYCE
RINE TURNS BROWN, THAT MEANS IT'S READY TO EXPLODE... IF IT STAYS CLEAR AND
ALL
WORKS WELL, KEEP THE TEMPERATURE AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND LET IT SIT FOR A
FEW HO
URS. YOU THEN SHOULD HAVE SOME NITROGLYCERINE, PROBABLY MIXED WITH
NITRIC AND S
ULFURIC ACIDS. WHEN YOU SET IT OFF, YOU MUST NOT BE NEARBY. NITROGLYCERINE
CAN
FILL 10,000 TIMES ITS ORIGINAL AREA WITH EXPANDING GASES. THIS MEANS THAT
IF YO
U HAVE 10ML'S OF NITROGLYCERINE IN THERE, IT WILL PRODUCE SOME 100,000ML'S
OF G
ASES.
TO MAKE IT INTO DYNAMITE, THE NITROGLYCERINE MUST BE ABSORBED INTO
SOMETHING
LIKE WOOD PULP OR DIAMAECEOUS EARTH (SPELLED SOMETHING LIKE THAT).
[ ] * Formulas For The Straight Dynamite Series *
Probably one of the single greatest breakthroughs in explosives came
by accident, when Nobel discovered a primitive form of dynamite. One of the
primary ingredients of dynamite is nitroglycerine, which has great explosive
power, although it has the disadvantage of being ultrasensitive to heat and
shock. What dynamite does is to combine the high explosive power of nitro with
a stabilizing agent, to render it powerful but safely usable. Nobel developed
what is called today the straight dynamite series, which is nothing more than
nitro and a stabilizing agent. The most common straight dynamite formulas
follow (nitroglycerine will be referred to as NG):
[1> NG 32 [10> NG 26
sodium nitrate 28 potassium nitrate 33
woodmeal 10 woodmeal 41
ammonium oxalate 29
guncotton 1 [11> NG 15
sodium nitrate 62.9
[2> NG 24 woodmeal 21.2
potassium nitrate 9 sodium carbonate .9
sodium nitrate 56
woodmeal 9 [12> NG 35
ammonium oxalate 2 sodium nitrate 37
woodmeal 27
[3> NG 35.5 ammonium oxalate 1
potassium nitrate 44.5
woodmeal 6 [13> NG 32
guncotton 2.5 potassium nitrate 27
vaseline 5.5 woodmeal 10
powdered charcoal 6 ammonium oxalate 30
guncotton 1
[4> NG 25
potassium nitrate 26 [14> NG 33
woodmeal 34 woodmeal 10.3
barium nitrate 5 ammonium oxalate 29
starch 10 guncotton .7
potassium perchloride 27
[5> NG 57
potassium nitrate 19 [15> NG 40
woodmeal 9 sodium nitrate 45
ammonium oxalate 12 woodmeal 15
guncotton 3
[16> NG 47
[6> NG 18 starch 50
sodium nitrate 70 guncotton 3
woodmeal 5.5
potassium chloride 4.5 [17> NG 30
chalk 2 sodium nitrate 22.3
woodmeal 40.5
[7> NG 26 potassium chloride 7.2
woodmeal 40
barium nitrate 32 [18> NG 50
sodium carbonate 2 sodium nitrate 32.6
woodmeal 17
[8> NG 44 ammonium oxalate .4
woodmeal 12
anhydrous sodium sulfate 44 [19> NG 23
potassium nitrate 27.5
[9> NG 24 woodmeal 37
potassium nitrate 32.5 ammonium oxalate 8
woodmeal 33.5 barium nitrate 4
ammonium oxalate 10 calcium carbonate .5
The figures given in the right column are percentage parts, adding
up to a sum of 100%. Percentage parts are always based on a weight ratio
rather than volume. When preparing any high-explosive formulas, be sure you
know what you are doing. Have the correct equipment, and the correct
chemicals. Many of these chemicals are sold under brand names, which are more
familiar than their chemical names, but, before assuming anything, read the
ingredients, and take nothing for granted.
These formulas listed above are for straight dynamite. Straight
dynamite is a very primitive form of what we know today as dynamite. Later
ammonium nitrate was added to the dynamite. This substance produced a
greater explosive action, but less velocity. The intensification of the
explosive action results because ammonium nitrate furnishes more oxygen for
the dynamite. Ammonium nitrate has not only been used in dynamite, but also
in many other different explosive compounds, including nitroglycerine,
picric acid, and coal dust. Ammonium nitrate when mixed with these substances
creates the cheapest form of high explosive known to man.
[ ] *How To Make TNT*
[*TNT*]
The name dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. It was
made because nitroglycerine was so dangerously sensitive to shock. A misguided
individual with some sanity would, after making nitroglycerine (an insane act)
would immediately convert it to dynamite. This can be done by adding various
materials to the nitroglycerine, such as sawdust. The sawdust holds a large
weight of nitroglycerine per volume. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added, and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, and increase
the power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really safe.
T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene, is perhaps the second oldest known high
explosive. Dynamite, of course, was the first. It is certainly the best known
high explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning cartoons. It
is the standard for comparing other explosives to, since it is the most well
known. In industry, a T.N.T. is made by a three step nitration process that is
designed to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids which are used to make the
product. A terrorist, however, would probably opt for the less economical one
step method. The one step process is performed by treating toluene with very
strong (fuming) sulfuric acid. Then, the sulfated toluene is treated with very
strong (fuming) nitric acid in an ice bath. Cold water is added the solution,
and it is filtered.
Probably the most inportant explosive compound in use today is
TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other types of high explosives are all used by
the military, because of their fantastic power--about 2.25 million pounds per
square inch, and their great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of
being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells,
mortars, and any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which
resemble dry-cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge,
coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are different methods.
[ ] *How To Make Tetryl*
Tetryl is commonly used in compounds containing TNT, and it works great
by itself. Method for the preperation of tetryl:
1. A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in an excess amount of
concentrated sulfuric acid (sulferic acid=battery acid).
2. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new
mixture is kept in an ice bath and is well stirred.
3. After about five minutes, the tetryl is fltered and washed in cold water.
4. It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium
bicarbonate(baking soda). This process acts to neutralize the remaining acid.
The washings are repeated as many times as necesary according to the litmus
paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acid, filter it
from the water and allow it to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in
very much the same way as TNT.
2.0 BUYING EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city or town of reasonable size has a gun store and
a pharmacy. These are two of the places that potential terrorists visit in
order to purchase explosive material. All that one has to do is know something
about the non-explosive uses of the materials. Black powder, for example,
is used in blackpowder firearms. It comes in varying "grades", with each
different grade being a slightly different size. The grade of black powder
depends on what the calibre of the gun that it is used in; a fine grade of
powder could burn too fast in the wrong caliber weapon. The rule is:
the smaller the grade, the faster the burn rate of the powder.
[ ] * BLACK POWDER *
Black powder is generally available in three grades. As stated before,
the smaller the grade, the faster the powder burns. Burn rate is extremely
important in bombs. Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in
a confined environment, to make an explosion, a quick-burning powder is
desirable. The three common grades of black powder are listed below, along
with the usual bore width (calibre) of what they are used in. Generally,
the fastest burning powder, the FFF grade is desirable. However, the other
grades and uses are listed below:
GRADE BORE WIDTH EXAMPLE OF GUN
F .50 or greater model cannon; some rifles
FF .36 - .50 large pistols; small rifles
FFF .36 or smaller pistols; derringers
The FFF grade is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface area or burning surface exposed to the flame front. The larger
grades also have uses which will be discussed later. The price range of
black powder, per pound, is about $8.50 - $9.00. The price is not affected
by the grade, and so one saves oneself time and work if one buys the finer
grade of powder. The major problems with black powder are that it can be
ignited accidentally by static electricity, and that it has a tendency to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, a bomber would use a plastic
spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile at a time, he or she would
apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it in a series of strokes
or circles, but not too hard. It is fine enough to use when it is about as fine
as flour. The fineness, however, is dependant on what type of device one wishes
to make; obviously, it would be impracticle to crush enough powder to fill a 1
foot by 4 inch radius pipe. Anyone can purchase black powder, since anyone can
own black powder firearms in America.
[ ] * Gun Powder *
Charcoal 13%
Saltpeter 75%
Sulfur 12%
-85% Potassium Nitrate 75% Potassium Nitrate
-12% Charcoal 15% Charcoal
-03% Sulfur 10% Sulfur
(Saltpeter is Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate)
Mix dry, add water to make past, let dry, then crush to grain. Do not use
metal object when crushing. The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder
(seperately!) with a morter ^ pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open,
it burns fiercly, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the
released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this:
The potassium nitrate oxidized the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn
fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are gases released.
[ ] * Formulas For Black Powder *
Gunpowder is the great-granddaddy of all the rest of the high and
low power explosives, and still to this day is one of the most important
explosives. As with all the rest of the explosive formulas, it seems everyone
has his own recipe, which he claims to be the best. I have collected 11 of the
safer, more functional, methods of preparing gunpowder. The most important
thing to remember when dealing with black powder is its incredible sensitivity
to sparks.
[1> Potassium perchlorate 69.2 [2> Potassium chlorate 75
Sulfur 15.4 Charcoal 12.5
Charcoal 15.4 Sulfur 12.5
[3> Potassium nitrate 70.4 [4> Potassium nitrate 79
Sulfur 19.4 Sulfur 3
Sodium sulfate 10.2 Straw charcoal 18
[5> Potassium nitrate 64 [6> Potassium nitrate 70.6
Sulfur 12 Sulfur 23.5
Lamp black 7 Antimony sulfate 5.9
Sawdust 17
[8> Potassium nitrate 37.5
[7> Potassium nitrate 50 Starch 37.5
Ammonium perchlorate 25 Sulfur 18.75
Sulfur 12.5 Antimony powder 6.25
Charcoal 12.5
[10> Guanidine nitrate 49
[9> Barium nitrate 75 Potassium nitrate 40
Sulfur 12.5 Charcoal 11
Charcoal 12.5
[11> Sodium peroxide 67
Sodium thiosulphate 33
When preparing black powder for use in firearms, it is important to
keep in mind that these formulas are more powderful than ordinary potassium
nitrate gunpowder, and for that reason smaller quantities should be used. The
correct amount can only be discovered by trial-and-error experimentation, but
caution must be taken to prevent overloading.
Although black powder is one of the safest explosives, it has a
disadvantage: It is extremely sensitive to sparks; and it leaves a messy
residue in gun barrels, which necessitates frequent cleaning. The advantage of
smokeless powder is the low-explosive class, which gives off only gaseuous
products upon explosion. The first type of smokeless powder used by the army
was basically nitrocellulose with a small amount of diphenylamine, for
stablizer. Smokeless powder is perhaps the safest of any explosive compound,
and for that reason is extremely popular today.
[ ] * Napalm *
1. Fill the bottom container of a houshold double boiler with nothing
2. Fill the top container with gasoline
3. Using gentle electric heat, bring the gasoline to a boil
4. Slowly pour in powdered form soap flakes
5. Stir the mixture as you pour in the soap flakes
6. Continue until saturation
7. Allow the mixture to simmer, and set for a day or so
Everyone knows that Napalm is a substance that will stick to practically
anything and whn ignited will burn for a extremely long time.
[*Napalm #2*]
Napalm is in itself a very simple substance...it can be used for many
things...(i.e. getting back at your neighor!!)
Materials:
Gasoline Joy or Palmolive(I prefer Joy)
A Coke can with a sawed off top Ammonia Pellets
A Drill Some bendable wire
A Nail
First,make a mixture of 1/2 Joy(my favorite),and 1/2 Gasoline.
HTake the coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture...
it should look like this:
-^-^-^-^-^-^-^-
! !
! ! <-Coke Can
! !
!=============!
!=============!
!=============! <-Mixture
!=============!
---------------
Now,take the drill(or some sharp object)and put a hole through the amm-
onia pellet big enough for the nail.. Put the nail through the pellet(which
I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store)and wire that to the
top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily,allowing the pellet to
drop...WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE,AS YOUR
WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW!! Wait until you are ready to set it off to
let it drop...It should look like this:
(========<+>=========)
! ^^Nail ^^Pellet !
! !
! !
! !
!====================!
' !====================! <-Mixture
!====================!
!====================!
----------------------
And there is your Napalm grenade...
[ ] * Gun Cotton *
Commonly known as smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that, it does
not give off smoke when it burns.
Guncotton is usually called "gunpowder" or "Nitrocellulose". It is more
stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It
also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space.
Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following
procedure:
1. In a large beaker mix 2 parts by volume Nirtic Acid with one part
Sulphuric Acid
2. To this mixture add sterilized cotton
3. Pour in a small quanity of acetone (Finger Nail Polish Remover) until
the cotton dissolves and white crystals are formed, these crystals are
gun cotton.
4. This material must be confined to acheive detonation
5. Gun cotton is spark sensitive, but the use of an M-80 or blasting cap is
advised
[*Gun Cotton #2*]
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
cotton (cellulose) two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated nitric acid funnel and filter paper
concentrated sulfuric acid blue litmus paper
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to this
10 cc of concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3
minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocotton, and transfer it to a beaker of distilled water
to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to
be dried and stored.
Gun Cotton #3
MATERIALS-
70ML CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID
30ML CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID
5G ABSORBENT COTTON
250ML 1M SODIUM BICARBONATE
250ML BEAKER
ICE BATH
TONGS
PAPER TOWELS
PLACE 250ML BEAKER IN THE ICE BATH, ADD 70ML SULFURIC ACID, 30 ML NITRIC
ACI
D. DIVIDE COTTON INTO .7G PIECES. WITH TONGS, IMMERSE EACH PIECE IN THE ACID
SO
LUTION FOR 1 MINUTE. NEXT, RINSE EACH PIECE IN 3 SUCCESSIVE BATHS OF 500ML
WATE
R. USE FRESH WATER FOR EACH PIECE. THEN IMMERSE IN 250ML 1M SODIUM
BICARBONATE.
IF IT BUBBLES, RINSE IN WATER ONCE MORE UNTIL NO BUBBLING OCCURS. SQUEEZE
DRY
AND SPREAD ON PAPER TOWELS TO DRY OVERNIGHT.
[*Unstable Explosive*]
1) Mix solid Nitric Iodine with Household Ammonia.
2) Wait overnight
3) Pour off liquid
4) Dry mud on bottom wait for it to hard
5) Throw something at it! or throw it at something!
[ ] *Hindenberg Bomb*
Materials:
-1 Balloon
-1 Bottle
-1 Liquid Plumber
-1 Pieve of Aluminum Foil
-1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with liquid plumer and add a little piece of aluminum foil to it.
Keep the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the
ballon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable Hydrogen.
Now tie the balloon with fusing inserted. Now light the fuse, and let it
rise. When the fuse contacts the balloon, Kaboom!!
[ ] * Soft Drink Can Bomb *
This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a
soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other
explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is
then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or
wall where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three
to five minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on passersby.
It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from
your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast
!!
!!
!! <-Chemical Ingiter
---------
! !1! !
! ===== !
!*! !"!
! ! ! !
! ! ! !<- Big firecracker
! ! !%!
! ==== !
! !
! # !
! --- !
! ! ! <- Nuts & Bolts
! / !
! !
---------
[ ] *Slow Burning Fuse (2 inches per minute)*
Materials:
-Yarn or cotton string
-Potassium Nitrate
-Granulated sugar
1. Wash the cotton string or yarn in hot soapy water, then rinse with fresh
water
2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part Potassium Nitrate, 2 parts granulated sugar, 2 parts hot water
3. Soak string in this solution and allow to dry.
4. Light it up and check to see how it works.
[ ] *Fast Burning Fuse (40 in. per minute)*
Materials needed:
---> soft cotton string
---> fine black powder
---> shallow dish or pan
Procedure:
1. moisten powder to form a paste
2. twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
3. rub paste into string and allow to dry
4. check burn rate
[ ] *Extraction of Potassium Nitrate from soil*
Potassium nitrate can be extracted from many natural sources and can be
used to make nitric acid, black powder, and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges
from.1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.
Materials Source
--------- ------
Nitrate bearing earth or other Soil contaying decaying animal or vegetable
material, about 3-1/2 gallons. matter.
Fine wood ashes, 1/2 cup. Totally burned wood products.
5gallonbucket
2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each slightly larger than the
bottom of the bucket.
Shallow pan or dish at least as
large as bottom of bucket.
Shallow heat resistant container
ceramic or metal.
Water,1-3/4 gallons.
Awl, knife screwdriver or other
hole producing instrument.
Alcohol (ethyl or isopropyl)
1 gallon
Heat source, fire, stove.
paper
Tape
Procedure
---------
1 Punch holes in the bottom of the bucket so that the entire surface is covered
with them.
2 Place cloth flat on bottom of bucket.
Spread ashes on cloth.
Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes
3 Fill bucket with earth.
4 Place bucket over shallow container. Support bucket with sticks if necessary.
5 Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a
time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure
water runs through all of the earth. Allow liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2
hours.
6 Carefully drain liquid into heat resistant container. Discard sludge at
bottom of shallow container.
7 Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will
appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form and discard.
8 When liquid has boiled down to about half of its original volume, remove from
fire and let sit. After half hour add an equal volume of alcohol.
9 Make an improvised strainer out of paper tape and bucket. Tape paper so that
it covers the top of a clean bucket.
10 Pour mixture through paper strainer. Small white salt crystals will collect
on top of it. These are potassium nitrate.
11 To purify the potassium nitrate, re-dissolve the dry crystals in the
smallest amount possible of boiled water (make sure they all dissolve). Remove
any salt crystals that appear (step 7) pour through an improvised filter made of
several pieces of paper and evaporate or gently heat solution to dryness.
12 Spread crystals on plat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate
crystals are now ready to use.
This method was tested, it is effective. Large quantities (1 to 2 pounds) of
potassium nitrate can be obtained this way! But be careful, and use common sense
[ ] *Bar Rockets*
Materials:
1-empty unrinced glass bottle of 80 or so proof alchoholic beverage
1-toothpick
1-of those thin red bar straws
1-lighter or match
hot water
1. Take the bar straw vertically and stick the toothpick through it
horizontally
2. Cap up the bottle with your thumb and run it under hot water for about
a minute.
3. Remove your thumb and put the straw into the bottle with the toothpick
sitting on the lip of the bottle <see diagram>
4. Stand back and put lighter or match over top of bottle.
Diagram:
!!
!!
----------------
/!\ [][][][]
Toothpick__/ ! !! !
/ !! \----Bottle
/ !! \
/ !! \
! !
!------------!
! !
! !
! !
!------------!
! !
!------------!
When you run the hot water over the bottle the little bit of alchohol still in the
bottle turns into a semi-flammable gas. Then when you hold a
flame over the bottle it make a small explosion, the force blasts up the
straw and shoots it up. Its not that big but a cool trick.
[ ] * How To Make Blasting Gelatin *
One of the nearly perfect explosive compounds, in the sense of
chemical combustion rather than stability, is blasting gelatin. This was
discovered by Nobel, and is a very primitive form of plastique, as we know
it today. It is made by mixing a small amount of nitrocellulose (nitrated
sawdust) with a larger amount of nitroglycerin. This creates a stiff, plastic
substance which has power as an explosive greater than either of its
ingredients. A person attempting to make this should use 92% nitroglycerin
and 8% nitrocellulose, and pray. If you don't want to mess with making
nitrocellulose and have access to guncotton, it can be substituted.
[ ] * Formulas For Gelatin Dynamites *
NG = Nitroglycerin
[1> NG 12 [2> NG 88
Guncotton 0.5 Potassium nitrate 5
Ammonium nitrate 87.5 Tetryl 7
[3> NG 9.5 [4> NG 9.5
Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 0.5
Ammonium nitrate 59 Ammonium nitrate 59.5
Woodmeal 6 Woodmeal 6
Ammonium oxalate 10 Ammonium oxalate 5
Sodium chloride 15 Sodium chloride 19.5
[5> NG 24 [6> NG 12
Guncotton 1 Ammonium nitrate 87.5
Ammonium nitrate 75 Collodion cotton 0.5
[7> NG 71 [8> NG 75
Ammonium nitrate 23 Guncotton 5
Collodion cotton 4 Potassium nitrate 15
Charcoal powder 2 Woodmeal 5
[9> NG 12 [10> NG 30
Guncotton 0.5 Guncotton 1
Ammonium nitrate 82.5 Ammonium nitrate 68
Potassium nitrate 5 Sodium chloride 1
[11> NG 9.5 [12> NG 25
Ammonium nitrate 67.5 Ammonium nitrate 62
Woodmeal 8 Tetryl 1
Sodium chloride 15 Charcoal powder 12
[13> NG 80 [14> NG 60
Ethylene glycol dinitrate 20 Dinitrotoluene 40
[15> NG 60 [16> NG 29
Guncotton 4 Guncotton 1
Potassium nitrate 28 Ammonium nitrate 65
Woodmeal 8 Potassium nitrate 5
[17> NG 55 [18> NG 27
Guncotton 3 Guncotton 0.7
Potassium nitrate 18 Ammonium nitrate 30
Woodmeal 7 Sodium nitrate 30
Anhydrous magneium sulfate 17 Charcoal powder 11
Barium sulfate 1.3
[19> NG 29
Guncotton 1
Ammonium nitrate 70
[ ] * Tamping *
Tamping is nothing more than an operation performed before the
explosion, to regulate and direct the destructive power of the explosion. In
other words, if a pound of black powder is ignited with a match, the explosion
will occur but most of the destructive force will take the path of the least
resistance - into the atmosphere. Now, if the same pound of black powder was
placed within a steel pipe, and sealed at both ends, except for a tiny hole
for the fuse, the explosion could be regulated with ease. This tamping
operation is necessary for any forms of demolitions in order that the
operation be successful. A stick of dynamite placed on a concrete roadway
untamped, when exploded will create a very small crater, perhaps a few inches.
If this same stick of dynamite were tamped, by placing several sandbags on
top of if and around it, the explosion would create a much greater crater.
This tamping operation is absolutely necessary for the demolition of a large
structure or building.
[1> When attempting to sever a steel rod or pole, through the use of
explosives, place a charge on each side, leaving a small gap between the butts
of the explosives.
[2> When cutting a chain, place the explosive charge on one side and tape it
securely into place.
[3> When cutting any odd-shaped object, the best explosive to use is plastique
because of its flexibility. It is especially usefull and effective when
cutting heavy metal cables. The compound should be placed around the side of
the cable that is to be cut, about a half-inch thick.
When sabotaging railroad tracks with explosive, use plastique if
available, since this is the easiest substance to use when trying to sever
objects or irregular shapes. The most common way of cutting train tracks is by
placing a charge of high explosives on either side of the "I" beam track, so
as to have the forces of the two explosions act upon each other, thus causing
the middle object maximum destruction.
Another method which has proven equally effective is placing a charge
between the rail and the switch. The switch is one of the weakest points along
the line, and a relatively small charge will not only sever the switch and
rail, but will also rip up the ties and the railroad bed. Tamping with
sandbags can and should be used if at all possible, since the extent of the
damage is multiplied several times by the addition of the sandbags. Tamping
can be useless if you are on a silent lightning-fast mission. In this case,
a two-pound charge of TNT carefully placed between the switch and rail will
almost certainly do the trick without tamping. The best procedure when
engaged in this type of sabotage is to repeat the acts every three-quarters
of a mile or so, so as to delay the repairmen and create confusion.
[ ] *Placement Of Charges*
In demolition work, the greatest problem is the actual placement of
the charges. When an individual is working on a large structure such as a
building or a bridge, it is imperative that he have an understanding of the
directional force of explosives, and the structure's weaknesses. These
large-type structures are built to bear up under abnormal stress, so the
chances are good, unless the charges are placed correctly, that the sabotage
will have little or no effect.
When attempting the demolition of a building, the first thing to do is
to determine the weakest point in the structure. This is the point where a
charge can be placed and well-tamped, and will result in maximum destruction.
A large building will usually take more than just one charge. The best bet is
to place large explosive charges on either side of a weak point in the
foundations. These charges should be tamped from the outside, so as to drive
the force inward.
There are several basic methods of planting explosives. The advantage
to most of the ones listed below is that they have a natural tamping factor,
built-in.
[1> Bury the explosive beneath the object of destruction.
[2> Drill a bore hole into the object and fill with explosives.
[3> Form a brace to hold the explosives tight against the object of
destruction. A good brace can be made from wood placed on a diagnol, with one
end jammed into the ground.
[4> Place a charge out in the open, with the tamping material surrounding it,
and directing its force.
[ ] * Basic Formulas For Demolitions Use and Lacing *
[1> Computation for minimum safety distance.
For charges less then 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance is 900
feet. Over 27 pounds, the minimum safety distance can be figured by using
the following formula: ____________________________
300 x 3/ Pounds of explosive (T.N.T.)
(Read: 300 times the cubic root of pounds of explosive)
[2> Steel cutting
When cutting, with explosives, part of a steel structure, determine
the area in square inches of the member to be cut. This area is then labeled
"A" and can use the following formula:
P = 3/8 A
P = The number of pounds of T.N.T. necessary.
(Read: P equals 3 eighths times A)
[3> Steel cutting
When a steel member is not part of a greater structure, a different
formula is used. This is based on the diameter of the individual member.
2
P=D (Read: P equals D squared)
P = The amount of T.N.T. required, and D is the diameter of the piece
of steel.
[4> Train rails
To cut rails that weigh less then 80 pounds, use one-half pound of
explosives. To cut rails that weigh over 80 pounds, use a full pound of
explosives.
[5> Timber cutting
When the charge is to be external and untamped, the formula is as
follows: 3
P = C
---
30 (Read: P equals C cubed divided by 30)
P = The pounds of explosives required, and C equals the circumference
of the tree in feet (this formula is given for plastique).
When figuring an internal tamped charge, the formula is:
2
P = D
---
250 (Read: P equals D squared divided by 250)
P = The pounds of explosives, and D equals the diameter of the tree
in inches.
[Some Important Principles]
A basic rule to follow in all calculations having to do with explosive
compounds is to round off the amount to the next highest unit package. At
times you may use a little more than necessary, but you will be assured of
success. Another rule when calculating charges is to add one-third more
explosives if you do not intend to tamp. If a formula is given for plastique
(composition 4), as was done for both timber-cutting formulas, you are able to
compute poundage in TNT by adding one-third to the weight of the plastique.
When using the principle of cratering to destroy a paved surface with
explosives, use several charges rather than just one. The use of a bore hole
is especially effective here. It is pointless to attempt cratering a roadway
without tamping, since most of the destructive force of your charge will go
straight up in the air.
Bombs and booby traps incorporate more than just technical knowledge,
they are based on human nature. To create an effective booby trap, one must
have a primitive insight into his enemy's actions, thoughts, and methods.
Before I get into the nitty-gritty of constructing booby traps, bombs, land
mines, grenades, etc., it is important explain the basic working principles
and mechanisms behind these devices.
In the acquisition of equipment I would recommend purchasing or
stealing, rather than making your own. Manufactured equipment is much safer to
work with, and usually more effective. Once you have your explosive compounds,
you will need a way to set it off, or detonate it. With all high explosives,
you will need a detonator or blasting cap, unless you decide to lace the fuse
into the explosive, although this is not recommended. A blasting cap is a low-
explosive compound that is connected to a high explosive, for the purpose of
detonating it. There are two types of blasting caps - electric and
nonelectric.
To use a nonelectrical blasting cap, one gently pushes the fuse into
the hollow end, until it is fully in. He then crimps the hollow metal end
around the fuse, and puts it into the high explosive. When the fuse burns down
it ignites the flash charge. That in turn explodes the priming charge, which
detonates the base charge, and finally creates enough heat to set off the
high-explosive charge. The fuse is ordinary safety fuse or detonating cord.
When the fuse is put into the blasting cap, it is necessary to seal
it. This act of sealing is called crimping. When involved with this sort of
thing, one must use the standard safety precautions set down in the
previous section. Crimpers look like a pair of pliers, and their function is
very similar, although pliers cannot be used for crimping. With the crimper in
your right hand and the blasting cap in your left, slowly squeeze the hollow
end of the blasting cap until it is firmly against the fuse. Use care so that
you do not squeeze the charge within the cap, as this may detonate it.
Whereas nonelectrical blasting caps are functional and have proven
that they can be relied on, electrical blasting caps offer a much greater
variety of uses. The basic principle of the electrical blasting caps is that
an electrical charge moves through an insulated wire until it reaches a small
section of that same wire which is not insulated and which is surrounded by
a primary flash charge. The heat from the electrical charge will explode the
flash charge, which in turn will set off a series of minor explosions,
finishing up with the high explosive.
Both types of blasting caps should be placed within the high explosive
itself. This is easy when working with plastique or a pliable surface.
Manufactured TNT has a small hole designed at the top for just this reason,
but in dynamite one has to make his own hole. This hole should be made with a
wooden or nonsparking metal object. The ends of the crimpers are ideal. The
hole can be made in one of two ways: the first is bored carefully and gently
straight down from the top of the stick, to exactly the length of the cap
itself; the second type of hole is made from the side in a downward diagnol
direction. Both of these methods have proven effective.
Another method priming dynamite, which is not as reliable as either
nonelectrical or electrical blasting caps, is called "lacing". The principle
behind most detonating devices is simply to create a temperature which is hot
enough to ignite the high explosive. This increase in temperature can be
accomplished with a relatively good degree of success by weaving the fuse
throughout the high explosive so that, as the fuse burns down, the heat
created from the burning process it captures and held within the high
explosive until the detonation temperature is reached.
There are different methods of lacing, depending on what type of high
explosive you happen to working with. For dynamite, the most common and most
functional method is to literally sew the detonation cord into the stick.
This preparation entails the individual's making several holes directly
through the dynamite itself. This hole-making should be performed just as
the planting of the blasting cap was handled. The holes must be dug gently
and slowly with a nonmetallic instrument. "Lacing" should be done only when
there is no alternative, and blasting caps are not available.
When using TNT, you can lace it by wrapping the detonating cord
around the body of the explosive at least five or six times, and then tying
it off with a clove hitch. This will result in a great amount of heat being
transferred into the TNT from the fuse, and its detonation.
Plastique can also be ignited in this fashion, by employing a heavy-
duty detonation cord, and tying a double knot in one of its ends. This large
knot is then buried deep in the center of the composition. It must be at least
one inch from any side.
[ ] * How to Hotwire a Car *
The easiest way is to just get under the dashboard and start crossing wires.
Of course this could short out the entire electrical system so there is a
better way.
When you get in the car, look under the dash. If it's enclosed then don't
bother. Most new cars are like this unfortunately. However you could cut
through the dash. If you do cut just do it near the ignition.
Once you get behind or near the ignition, look for two red wires. In older
cars this was the standard color code. If they aren't there you'll just have
to try whatever else you can find.
Pull out the two wires and cross them. The car should start.
[ ] * Fax Machine Fun *
In the late 80's we have seen a massive explosion in the popularity of
fax machines. Everyone has one. They are cheap, easy to use, and very useful.
Up until now, however, they have been almost exclusivly in the province of the
buisness world. Just for those of you who have been in comas for the last few
years, I'll explain fax machines to you.
Fax machines are combination scanners/modems/printers. You can transmit
the contents of a piece of paper to another fax over the phone lines. Usually,
your fax also prints the number you called from on the first sheet of the
transmittal. It is easy to see why buisnesses like these. No longer content
with Federal Express, now letters can go cross country in minutes. Faxes have
about 200-250 dpi resolution, and print out on rolls of thermal paper. For some
odd reason, most of them are 4800 baud.
"So what" you ask? Most people don't seem to realize the potential
available here. When I worked at The FHLB, we used to get faxes all the time,
with requests for checks. Occaisionaly, we also got short notes from the idiots
at the other banks.
This is what gave me the idea for what I call, for lack of a better term, Fax
Piracy.
Fax Piracy is the ultimate prank call. Let me give you an example.
There was this Library I hated, and, like everyone else, they have a fax.
So what me and a few of my freinds did was send them requests, "from" another
Library for books. I found out later, from a kid who worked there that they
wasted about $50, sending them all the books. Not much, but if you know how
cheap librarians are, you can imagine the shit fits they had.
Next, we send them a "Mobius Fax" we got some sheets of black
construction paper, taped about 10 of them together, and started feeding them
through the fax. Once the start of the long sheet we had created came through,
we taped it to the end. This went on continuosly for about 15 minutes until their
(very expensive) thermal paper ran out. Since we had sent them nothing but
black paper, it completely covered and ruined all of their paper. This used up
their 3month paper allocation at once, and they had to borrow from petty cash
to buy more.
Finally we sent them a little note, telling them what idiots they were, and
signing it "the fax pirates"
HOW TO DO IT-
First, and this is VERY IMPORTANT- Always remember to REPROGRAM the fax
so it displays someone elses name and number. If you forget to do this, its
like sending a letter bomb with a return adress.
Second, decide what to send. This is entirely up to you (duh) , and
depends on whether you want to annoy them, or really destroy them.* Wierd
requests from other companies you hate, long rambling stories, or strange art is
always good. Be a little creative
Third, send it. (wow, some people need to be told everything, don't they)
What? You don't know their fax #? Its not in information? Its not in the
phone book? Well, keep reading!
HOW TO GET FAX PHONE NUMBERS-
This is just way easier than it should be. Call and ask. I'm serious,
we've done this probably over 30 times, and NO ONE HAS EVER QUESTIONED OUR
REQUEST! I'll give you a sample of a call that actually happened. (this is
verbatum)(we taped it)
IBM LADY Hello, IBM, may I help you?
ME Hi, this is Biff Fulgate from over here at Linear Data Systems
Can I get your fax number, those boys in research need to send
something over and they lost the number again.
IBM LADY Please hold on a moment
ME Sure thing. Hah, those cooks over in research would probably
lose their heads if they wern't screwed on.
IBM LADY Haha. Now is that the Tower 700 number?
ME Um...let me check here... Yeah, that's it. (Tower 700? what?)
IBM LADY Ok, hold on
(Long wait during which I get slightly nervous)
IBM LADY Ok That number is 313-xxx-xxxx
ME Thanks, Bye
Also, most ads have fax numbers. Don't fuck with little companies
though.
A) they don't need it, B) they are probably more suspicious, C) it hurts them more
than it would hurt a big company. be a caring capitolist.
If you need any suggestions as to who's number to get try the following-
newspapers, radios stations, big companies, libraries, city & state governments,
the right to life movement, etc.
HINTS-
Act like you know whats going on at all times.
Be polite, and a little bit familiar
Make sure you have a plausable reason for getting the number
Don't laugh
Let the person who sounds most 'adult-like' make the call
Make sure you have a plausable name
Remember, the larger the company, the less the people know and care about other
parts of the company, so the greater chance you have of not getting hassled.
ALSO! Don't forget to change the "number" you are calling from.
If you want to send a Mobius Fax, usually Faxes have paper feed trays (we didn't
know that when we did it)
ALSO- NEVER, EVER, DO THIS TO AT&T!
HOW TO GET A FAX TO USE-
Well, if you don't have one, try mommy's or daddy's office. Most Campus
offices have faxes you can pretend that you are supposed to be using (tell them the
Library sent you). Many print-shops (like Kinko's) have fax machines that you
can use for a nominal fee. And, just like terminals in the early 80's, most
fax machines are just sitting out in offices, if you dress nicely, and look like
you know what you're doing, no one is going to ask questions.
*-- for really good info on how to really fuck up a company with mail, or faxes,
I reccomend Keith Wade's POISON PEN LETTERS & YOUR REVENGE IS IN THE MAIL
both
available from the Loompanics Book Catalog (see my file on that for the adress)
[*Smoke Bombs*]
One type of pyrotechnic device that might be employed by a terrorist in
many way would be a smoke bomb. Such a device could conceal the getaway route,
or cause a diversion, or simply provide cover. Such a device, were it to
produce enough smoke that smelled bad enough, could force the evacuation of a
building, for example. Smoke bombs are not difficult to make. Although the
military smoke bombs employ powdered white phosphorus or titanium compounds,
such materials are usually unavailable to even the most well-equipped terrorist.
Instead, he/she would have to make the smoke bomb for themselves.
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such
as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn
well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but
not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material,
produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount
of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke
ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many
chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and
sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel-oxodizer
mixtures, if the ratio is not correct, produce much smoke when added to a base
powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful
smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and
contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse
enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an
explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt
and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to
prevent an explosion.
1) Mix 3 parts Sugar : 6 Parts Epson salt
2) put in a tin can, and onto a low flame (like a lighter)
3) let gel harden
4) put match in as a fuse.
5) light and run like hell cause 4 pounds will fill a city block...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this
reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for
larger amounts of smoke.
6G Zinc powder
1G Sulfur powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created
Simple smoke and stink bomb- You can purchase Sulphur at a drugstore under
the name FloWers of Sulphur. Now when Sulphur burns it will give off a very
strong odor and plenty of smoke. Now all you need is a fuse from a firecracker,
a tin can, and the Sulphur. Fill the can with Sulphur(pack very lightly), Put
Aluninum foil over the top of the can, poke a small hole into the foil, insert
the wick, and light it and get out of the room if you value your lungs. You can
find many uses for this( or atleast i hope so.
[ ] *Formulas For Different-Colored Smoke Screens*
Black Smoke Screen
[1> Magnesium powder 19% [2> Magnesium powder 20
hexachloroethane 60 hexachloroethane 60
naphthalene 21 naphthalene 20
[3> Hexachloroethane 55.8 [4> Black powder FFF 50
alpha naphol 14 Potassium nitrate 10
athracene 4.6 coal tar 20
aluminum powder 9.3 powdered charcoal 15
smokeless powder 14 paraffin 5
naphthalene 2.3
White Smoke Screen
[1> Potassium chlorate 44 [2> Zinc dust 28
sulfur flour 15 zinc oxide 22
zinc dust 40 hexachloroethane 50
sodium bicarbonate 1
[3> zinc dust 66.67
hexachloroethane 33.33
Yellow Smoke Screen
[1> Potassium chlorate 25 [2> Potassium chlorate 30
paranitraniline 50 naphthalene azodimethyl analine 50
lactrose 25 powdered sugar 20
[3> Potassium chlorate 21.4
naphthalene azodimethyl aniline 2.7
auramine 38
sodium bicarbonate 28.5
sulfur flour 9.4
Green Smoke Screen
[1> Potassium nitrate 20
red arsenic 20
sulfur flour 20
antimony sulfide 20
black powder FFF 20
Red Smoke Screen
[1> Potassium chlorate 20 [2> Potassium chlorate 26
lactose 20 diethylaminorosindone 48
paranitraniline red 60 powdered sugar 26
[3> Potassium chlorate 27.4 [4> Potassium perchlorate 25
methylaminoanthraquinone 42.5 antimony sulfide 20
quinone 42.5 rhodamine red 50
sodium bicarbonate 19.5 dextrin 5
sulfur flour 10.6
COLOR MATERIAL USED IN
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
red strontium road flares,
salts red sparklers
(strontium nitrate)
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
green barium salts green sparklers
(barium nitrate)
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
yellow sodium salts gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate)
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
blue powdered copper blue sparklers,
old pennies
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
white powdered magnesium firestarters,
or aluminum aluminum foil
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
purple potassium permanganate purple fountains,
treating sewage
[ ] *How To Make Smokeless Powder*
[1> Boil cotton for 30 minutes, in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide.
[2> Wash the cotton in hot water and allow it to dry.
[3> Mix slowly and carefully at 25 degrees Centigrade, 250 cc. of concentrated
sulfuric acid, 150 cc. of concentrated nitric acid, and 20 cc. of
water. They must be kept at 25 degrees C.
[4> Next place the dried cotton in the acid solution, and stir well with
either a glass or porcelain rod (do not use metal). This should be
done for 35 minutes.
[5> After nitration, the acids are washed away, and the cotton is washed in
boiling water five times, each time for 25 minutes. The cotton is
given several tests with litmus paper. If the litmus test proves
that there is still some acid present, a 2% solution of sodium
bicarbonate should neutralize whatever is left. This is important,
since any remaining acid acts as an impurity to make the explosive
more unstable.
[ ] *SMOKE BOMBS*
(1) MATERIALS
[1] 6 Table Spoons of Potassium Nitrate
[2] 5 Table Spoons of Sugar
[3] Something to melt them together
[4] Something to pore the stuff into
[5] Magnesium strips or ribbon
(2) THE MIXTURE
[1] Measure 6 parts Potassium Nitrate and 5 parts Sugar and put them in the can
that you are going to heat them in and blend them together.
[2] Put the can over the stove and heat the mixture together (make sure that
you dont ignite the stuff in the can- to prevent this form happening make
sure you stur and have it under a low flame
[3] When you notice that the two solids have become a liquid then take the can
off of the stove and pour the stuff into the thing you want it in and imbed
the magnesium into the stuff to use as an igniter.
[4] one pound of this stuff will engolph a hole chicago block as long as there
is no wind
[ ] *Time Delay Devices*
There are three different types of time-delay devices:
1) Metal strip under tension till it breaks.
2) Chemical action that will, after a period of time, produce
enough heat to detonate the explosive charge.
3) An alarm clock set for a certain time, so that when it rings
it will complete and electrical circuit, thus detonating an
electrical blasting cap.
The first method, metal under tension until breakage, I will
not discuss, since it is extremely hazardous and unreliable. You
can have little or no control over timing, and such devices are
notorious for backfiring.
The chemical-action time-delay methods have proven to be pretty
reliable. Most of this action incorporates the amount time taken
by certain solution of acid to eat its way through another
substance. The time length can be determined by the
concentration of the acid and by the substance to be eaten
through.
Nipple Time Bomb
----------------
An example of this type of chemical action is the Nipple Time
Bomb, which is very effective. One must obtain a short section
of steel pipe and cap each end accordingly. Place inside the
steel pipe a stick of dynamite, and drill a quarter-inch hole at
on end of the cap. Now, into this hole you must place a small
amount of potassium chlorate and gunpowder. Now, seperatly from
the pipe, take a small glass vial and fill it with a concentrated
sulfuric acid solution, then stop up the end with a paper or cork
stopper. To arm the bomb, place the vial of acid upside down in
the hole at the top of the pipe. Now, when the acid has eaten
its way through the stopper, it will come in contact with the
potassium chlorate and gunpowder. The mixture of these chemicals
will cause a minor explosion, but it will be large enough to
produce the heat necessary to detonate the dynamite. The
detonation time is usually between three and six hours. If a
solution of sulfuric acid and glycerin is used, rather than just
a pure sulfuric acid, the time delay will be up to five or six
days.
Here is a diagram:
$ = Vial with Sulfuric Acid Mixture
% = Potassium Chlorate
# = Gunpowder
+--+$+--+
! !$! !
C ! !$! !
A ==> ! !%! !
P ! !#! !
! +-+ !
+-+---+-+
! !
! D !
! Y !
P ! N !
I ==> ! A !
P ! M !
E ! I !
! T !
! E !
! !
+-+---+-+
C ! !
A ==> ! !
P ! !
! !
! !
+-------+
Vial of Sulfuric Acid:
+---+
A ! !
I ==> ! !
R ! !
!%%%!
SULFURIC !%%%!
==> !%%%!
ACID !%%%!
!%%%!
!%_%!
STOPPER ==> !/ \!
+---+
Place the vial upside down in the top of the bomb as shown.
Incendiary Time Bomb
This next one is an incendiary time bomb. This is very
similiar to the Nipple Time Bomb, in that it relies on the same
chemical action, but without the dynamite. The procedure is very
simple. A cardboard box or iron tube is filled with a mixture of
three-quarters potassium chlorate and one-quarter sugar, and then
sealed. At one end a hole is made. Into that hole is placed an
inverted vial of sulfuric acid, with a paper or cork stopper, it
will come into contact with the potassium chlorate-sugar mixture.
This will result in a very hot, powerful fire.
Illustration:
% = Vial of Sulfuric Mixture as in the
above bomb
$ = Cork or Paper Stopper
# = Mixture of Potassium Cholrate and
Sugar
+---+ +---+
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !%! !
! !$! !
! +-+ !
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
!#########!
+---------+
Magnifying-Glass Bomb
The Magnigying-Glass Bomb is effective, but it has many
disadvantages. The procedure is very simple. Take a tin can and
fill three-quarters of it with highly coompressed gunpowder. Now
attach to the top of the can a small magnifying glass, so that
the sun's light, when magnifyed through the glass, will cause the
heat necessary to detonate the charge. This works very well, as
long as it doesn't rain.
Illustration:
Magnifying Glass
!
+-----+
+------! !------+
! +-----+ !
! !
! !
! !
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%GUNPOWDER%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%!
+-------------------+
Alarm-Clock Time Bomb
The alarm-clock detonation method is the most accurate device,
in that a person can the the exact time he wishes the bomb to
explode. It is connected in the same fashion as the other
eletrical-circuit booby traps. Wires are connected to the hammer
of the bell and to the bell itself, via the blasting cap, to a
dry cell. The clock should be set to go off before the booby
trap is built. When the alarm goes off, the hammer and bell
connect completing the electrical circuit and detonating the
explosive.
Illustration:
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% +---++---+ % DYNAMITE %
% ! +!!+ ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! !DC! ! % DYNAMITE %
% ! !re! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! !yl! ! % DYNAMITE %
% ! ! l! ! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! +--+ +-- Blasting Cap %
%%!%%%%%%%%!%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% ! ! % DYNAMITE %
% +-+----+-+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% !oooo! % DYNAMITE %
% !oooo! %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% !oooo! % DYNAMITE %
% +----+ %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
% Clock % DYNAMITE %
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
[ ] *Supermarket Fun*
As some of you might have already guessed, this file will tell you all about
how to have loads of fun in any supermarket or grocery store. There are many
different things to do in a supermarket that will provide entertainment as
well as pissing off people in general. First, though, you should get some
friends to increase the entertainment value of the whole excursi- on, as well
as to provide even more destruction.
I've found that you can get away with a lot of things (playing chase
throughout the aisles, playing soccer or football with various perishables,
etc.) and no one will say anything. If anyone does say anything, do the
kindly anarchist thing and tell them to fuck off.
Ok. One very fun thing to do is fuck with the shopping carts themselves. You
can fill up many carts and then strew them all around the store, for example.
I'm sure that almost every employee just loves to spend their time ridding the
store of the bogus carts you created. Or maybe you would rather gather ten or
so carts and then make barriers in aisles when no one is looking. Wouldn't
you like to hear "Um...Frank..someone seems to have made a collection of carts
in aisle four, so could you clean it up please, thank you..." announced over
the loudspeaker system of your nearest Giant or Safeway? Or you can have your
very own shopping cart drag races in the frozen food section. Perhaps you're
one of the more destructive types. If you are, then "bumper carts" is just
for you. Just smash the carts into one another and relive those magic
childhood moments at the carnival. One VERY funny stunt that produces great
results is fucking with other people's carts. Just go around throwing things
into carts when the owner is not looking. "Wait a minute..where the hell did
this damn watermellon come from?! I hate watermellons." Doing that can
greatly confuse a person, so go ahead, make someone think they're goin' crazy!
Another fun thing to do at a grocery store is, of course, playing with the
food. See how many times you and a friend can throw toilet paper over aisle
eight without hitting anyone. You can always go for 'distance' by throwing
fruits or vegetables over as many aisles as possible. Or perhaps you would
rather test your bowling skills. Just stack up anything handy (paper towles,
cans, plastic soda bottles, etc.) and roll any sphere like object at it
(melons, or perhaps a can of Kool Aid?) You could always play a quick game of
basketball. Just set up an empty cart and find something that bounces or
doesn't), then go for those three point shots. In fact, almost every major
sport (except water pollo, but that's not a major sport, now is it?) can be
played with ease at your closest supermakert or grocery store.
Pissing off the employees is also entertaining. I'm sure you can think of
many ways to do this, but try the following. Trying to buy alcohol if you're
under age (insist that you aren't!), shouting obscenities, eating 'bulk' food
right out of the container, dropping (accidently of course!) a few glass
bottles, going down to where the employees eat and just sit at the table, and
also try to buy nine packs of gum in the '8 items or less' lane. You could
also try loitering, just sit at the magazine rack and catch up on your
reading. Another fun thing to do is to keep bugging an employee hard at work.
I'm sure an employee would appreciate it if you dragged him from his task just
so you could buy one red hot from the bulk food section.
Yet another entertaining thing to do is cause the store to lose customers.
The easiest way to do this is to just buy something so you and a friend can
get in line. Then look at what the person ahead of you is getting and tell
your friend that "whatever the next person has" was laced with poison or
something to that effect.
Oh, here's yet another entertaining thing to do. Go outside the store and
look for carts that are full and just sitting there with no on by them (the
owner has gone to get his/her car). When you have found such a cart, take some
bags or better yet, take the whole cart. Now you have a weeks worth of free
groceries. So get some friends together and have a party (what else would
you do with six bags of food?) If the owner suddenly appears while you are
"buying" your groceries, just push the cart as hard as you can at him/her and
take off. If you are lucky enough two find two of these carts, then you can
have some real fun. Just start taking things out of one cart and chuck it in
the other, better yet, just exchange bags! Then sit back and watch the
confussion. Although the people probably won't notice the difference until
they get home and unpack. Don't you wish you could see their reaction?! Oh,
you could also just take someones cart and move it down a bit...that way you
could see their reaction and that would of course increase your enjoyment.
A vast amount of fun can be had in the frozen food section. Just take some
frozen products or ice cream and put them in one of those desrted isles so
they can thaw out. After that, cruise over to where ever the food coloring is
kept and snag some. Then go back to frozen foods and find some nice ice
cream. Now just open up ice cream containers and put about thirty drops of
red (or whatever color) food coloring in 'em. Wouldn't YOU be surprised if
you opened up a half gallon of vanilla ice cream at home and found red swirls
and patches in it??
Do you want to get people in trouble? Then you can have lots of fun screwing
with the prices of things. You can take some steaks and throw 'em into the
"reduced food section". Most people are stupid and would jump at the chance
to get a turkey for a few bucks. Or, you could just take a large marker into
the store with you and write "5 cents" on everything you see. Write it on
donut boxes, cereal boxes, soda bottles, or anything you see.
My last topic is everyone's favorite, taking what is not rightfully yours
(shoplifting, dumbass) It's surprisingly simple to lift things from grocery
stores. I'm not going to give you a shoplifting tutorial here though, if you
need to read a phile to learn how to lift, you're an idiot. Also, you can eat
things right in the store if you want. Just take your snack to a deserted
aisle and then satisfy your stomach. Of course, the only thing you could
steal from Giant is food (or those cheap plastic toys often found in grocery
stores, but why would you want those?), and since a box of cereal is a bit to
obvious under one's shirt, I suggest candy. But go ahead and take what you
want...
Well, I was wrong, I have one more thing I want to tell you about (gee I'm
tricky...) Ok, have you ever seen those swinging double-doors in the back
near the meat?? These doors can lead you to loads of fun. Back there they
store all their excess until they have room for it. So you can go back there
and fuck around like crazy (if anyone asks you what the hell you're doing back
there, just say you're going to the bathroom, the bathrooms are ALWAYS back
there somewhere), doing whatever the hell you want. Try rearranging anything
you may find back there. Go ahead, screw up their inventory!
[ ] The Mammoth Fire Pillar
The concept behind this one is simple. In fifth grade we had a little
project where we filled a can with flour and put a small candle in it
and blew the flour with one those curve straw type things. How it works
is the flour is all blown into the air around the candle and the little
"bits" are caught on fire and light more and more until you get a column
on fire. The concept here is the same only on a much larger scale.
What you need:
- A big can, like something your mom might buy a year's supply of peas in
or something. Around 1 gallon or above if possible (be sure this is NOT
plastic!
- Some type of candle. I like to use a bunch of those magic relight
candles tied together so that if it goes out it'll start back up.
- A bag of flour
- Some plastic tubing about 1/4 inch and 2-3 feet long. You may want to
get a few elbow joints(E) for this, but at least one is needed.
This is the basic configuration-
| |
| |
| I |
| I |
--------------------------\ I | <-BIG CAN
------------------------\ | I |
| | | I |
| I |
|:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|
FLOUR -> |:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|
|:::::::::::::I:::::::::::::|
+---------------------------+
/^\
|
THE CANDLE
Now all you have to do is light the candle and blow on the tubing VERY
hard. What you might want to do is get a big baloon to use, or what I
did is I took an old bike and took the valve off of the tire and hooked
it to the end. Now I use either a foot pump, which can get tiring since
you have to go very fast, or I acquire some of those CO2 cartriges used
to inflate tires like when you're on a big biking trip. I also recommend
that you get tubing that will not melt in the fire, you might even want
to try some type of metal, although for me some good hard plastic works.
[ ] LEAD AZIDE
Lead Azide is a material that is often used as a booster charge for
other explosive, but it does well enough on its own as a fairly sensitive
explosive. It does not detonate too easily by percussion or impact, but it
is easily detonated by heat from an igniter wire, or a blasting cap. It is
simple to produce, assuming that the necessary chemicals can be procured.
By dissolving sodium azide and lead acetate in water in separate
beakers, the two materials are put into an aqueous state. Mix the two beakers
together, and apply a gentle heat. Add an excess of the lead acetate
solution, until no reaction occurs, and the precipitate on the bottom of the
beaker stops forming. Filter off the solution, and wash the precipitate in
hot water. The precipitate is lead azide, and it must be stored wet for safety.
If lead acetate cannot be found, simply acquire acetic acid, and put lead
metal in it. Black powder bullets work well for this purpose.
[ ] * THERMIT *
This stuff can burn *anything*. [except Tungsten].. It's great for burning
open a a pay phone
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous
amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react
nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely
powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from
the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a
combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by
an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited,
it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply
mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as
possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and
be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of
potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid
on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The
other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by
using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture
can be ignited.
[ ] *How to make Thermite*
1) First you need rust. The best way to make alot of it is....
a) get an electric train transformer
b) attach a common nail to the PLUS (+) end of the transformer
c) get a glass jar
d) fill it with water
e) put salt [regular table salt
is fine] into the water
f) put the other end (-) into water with the nail [leave the transformer
out, of course]
g) turn on the transformer
h) let the contraption run overnight
i) seperate out all the red shit [that's the rust] with a filter or a
spoon.
j) let the stuff dry [like on a paper towel]
k) that's it! you have rust!
2) Get some aluminum filings from the hardware store [or shave your own
from a bar with less that 94% pure aluminum, called duralumin]
3) Now, just mix:
8 grams rust
--------------------------
3 grams aluminum filings
4) That's Thermite!! Now, to ignite it...
5) You now need some Magnesium ribbon.
To get it, you can:
a) steal it from the chemistry lab at school
b) buy it at the hardware store
c) buy it from a chemical supply house.
6) Alright, shove the Magesium ribbon into the Thermite at a fuse.
7) Then light it with a blowtorch. [It won't get hot enough to ignite
the Thermite, though]
8) last step: get the hell back. [it can vaporize CARBON STEEL!]
[ ] * Thermite *
PART 1: Thermite
Materials needed:
Aluminum Powder (no coarser than ground coffee)
Iron Oxide Flakes (Iron II Oxide, similar to coarse ground coffee)
Jar or can with tight fitting lid.
Spoon or cup for measuring
Preparation:
1) Ok, put 3 parts by volume of iron oxide to 2 parts by volume of aluminum
powder into the jar. Leave at least 1/3 of the jar EMPTY.
2) Tighten lid on jar and turn slowly on its side till the 2 powders are
completely mixed.
Thats it! You've made thermite! But that was the EASY part... the igniters
are alot more complex....
PART 2: Igniters
Materials needed:
Finely powdered aluminum (no coarser than cake flour)
Finely powdered Sulfur (no coarser than cake flour)
Finely powdered Starch (yet again, not coaser than cake flour)
Water
Cylindrical tube about 6" in length and 3/4" inside diameter (plastic tubing you
can get at any lumberyard is ideal)
3/4" rod (or slightly smaller) rod that fits inside of plasic tube
3/8" dowel rod
Mixing bowl
Tablespoon
Teaspoon
Stove or hotplate
Knife
Measuring container
Granulated sugar (do NOT use powdered or confectionary sugar)
Potassium chlorate or Sodium chlorate (no coarser than granulated sugar)
Plastic Spoon
Moisture proof container with tight fitting lid
Rolling pin
Fuse or solar igniters (solar igniters are used for ignition of model rockets
and are available at most hobby shops)
Preparation:
1) Place 6 tablespoons of aluminum powder in a mixing bowl then add 15
tablespoons of powdered sulfur.
2) Mix two powders together gently with spoon till no unmixed particals of
sulfur are visible.
3) In a seperate pot add 2 teaspoons of laundry starch to about 6 ounces of
water and boil gently for a few minutes. Stir till the starch is dissolved
and allow the solution to cool to room temperature.
4) When cool, take about half the starch solution and add it to the mixture of
aluminum powder and sulfur.
5) Mix with a spoon until the whole mass is a smooth, evenly mixed putty-like
paste.
6) Fill the cylindrical tube with this paste, place one end of the tube on a
hard surface and tamp the paste with the 3/8" rod to sqeeze out the air
bubbles.
7) Push the paste out of the tube with the large rod, which just fits inside
the tube, so that it forms a cylinder, then cut the damp cylinder into
1 1/2" lengths using the knife.
8) Dry these pieces at 90 degrees F. for at least 24 hours. 9) Form a hole at
least 1/2" in diameter approxamately halfway into one end of and igniter
pellet.
10) Fill hole to roughly 1/2 its depth with sub-igniter mix (We'll be getting
to making that in a sec)
11) Insert a length of fuse (or solar igniter) into the hole so it makes contact
with the sub-igniter mix. Fill the rest of the hole with sub-igniter mix and
tamp down to hold fuse (or solar igniter) firmly.
12) Tape fuse (or solar igniter) firmly in place to prevent it from working
loose and to prevent sub-igniter mix from spilling out of hole.
13) Tape 2 or more pellets without holes to the one with the fuse
14) Store all the pellets in a dry, closed container till useage.
Sub-igniter mix preparation:
1) Using a clean, dry, plastic spoon, place granulated sugar in the container
to one quarter container volume. Wipe spoon with a dry, clean cloth.
2) If the potassium chlorate or sodium chlorate is lumpy, remove all lumps by
crushing with rolling pin. Using the spoon, add a quantity of chlorate equal
to the amount of suagr to the container
WARNING: IF THIS MIXTURE IS CARELESSLY HANDLED WITH EXCESSIVE BUMPING
AND
SCRAPING IT COULD IGNITE AND FRY YOUR ASS. MAKE SURE THERE ISN'T ANY
ADHERING
TO THE EDGE OR LIP OF THE CONTAINER BEFORE TIGHTENING THE LID!!!
3) Tighten the lid of the jar, turn jar on its side, and slowly roll till the
two powders are completely mixed. The mixture is ready to use and may be
stored for months in a tightly sealed container.
Ok, the igniters are done (Whew! Don't worry, its all downhill from here)
If you did it right, it should look something like this:
-Cut-away View-
##%%""%%##
##%%""%%## # = Pellet
##%%""%%## % = Sub-igniter mix
##%%""%%## " = Fuse
##%%""%%##
##%%""%%##
##%%""%%##
##%%%%%%##
##%%%%%%##
##%%%%%%##
##%%%%%%##
###%%%%###
####%%####
##########
##########
##########
##########
##########
PART 3: Bomb Construction
There's 3 types of basic devices thermite is good for: Metal welding device,
Hole burning device, and Exploding incediary device.
1: Welding device
Materials needed:
Cardboard clyinder with metal ends (empty comet detergent box is perfect)
Thermite & Igniters
1) Cut cylinder in half
2) Arrange thermite and igniters like this:
- Cut away view -
""
!######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder
!######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite
!######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster
!######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse
!######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end
!#################!
!#################!
!#################!
!#################!
+++++++++++++++++++
Place over parts you wish to weld and ignite. Conducted heat and molten slag
from the device will cause a weld. This is good for sabotaging gears, motors,
electric transformers and many other uses (use your wicked imagination)
Hole Burning Device
1) Cut cardboard cylinder into 2 equal parts
2) Cut one piece to a height of 2" and cut 2 air vent notches on the open end.
3) Fill other section approx. 2/3 with thermite
4) Bury an igniter cluster just under the surface of the thermite
5) Place empty piece OPEN END DOWN on the area you wish to penetrate
6) Place filled section metal end down on top of open vented piece so that
metal ends of the cylinder are touching
Should look like this:
- Cut away view -
""
!######%%""%%#####! ! = Cardboard cylinder
!######%%""%%#####! # = Thermite
!######%%%%%%#####! % = Igniter cluster
!######%%%%%%#####! " = Fuse
!######%%%%%%#####! + = Metal end
!#################!
!#################!
!#################!
!#################!
+++++++++++++++++++
+++++++++++++++++++
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !
! !!!!!! !
! ! ! !
!!!!!!!! / !!!!!!!
air vent notch
The above device will melt a hole through 3/8" steel plate by dropping extremly
hot particles of molten iron onto the metal. Its great for destroying cars
(put over engine block or gas tank hehez), and lots of other stuff...
Exploding incediary device
Extra materials needed:
Gun Powder
Small glass bottle (aspirin bottle works good)
1) TIGHTLY PACK gunpowder into glass bottle.
2) Put hole large enough for fuse in lid of glass bottle.
3) Put a VERY short fuse (about 1/2") into hole
4) Build Thermite welding device as per instructions except place glass powder
bottle on bottom of cardboard cylinder before filling with thermite.
This device should cause a small explosion and spray molten thermite in a
5-10 foot radius (good for starting fires around flammable items). The molten
thermite burns enough to light the fuse setting off the gunpowder charge in
the bottle.
[ ] * CHEMICAL FIRE BOTTLE *
The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the very
hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate. When the
container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays onto the
paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck by the
acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The chance
of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced to 0%, if
there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
2 teaspoons potassium chlorate 12 oz. glass bottle
sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle,with plastic inside
concentrated sulfuric acid(4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges
gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels
glass or plastic cup and spoon
1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the
acid eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until
a cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.
2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.
3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.
4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.
5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.
6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.
7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.
8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP,
WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE,
CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.
9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.
[ ] *PAPER CONTAINERS*
Paper was the first container ever used for explosives, since it was
first used by the Chinese to make fireworks. Paper containers are usually very
simple to make, and are certainly the cheapest. There are many possible uses
for paper in containing explosives, and the two most obvious are in firecrackers
and rocket engines. Simply by rolling up a long sheet of paper, and gluing it
together, one can make a simple rocket engine. Perhaps a more interesting and
dangerous use is in the firecracker. The firecracker shown here is one of
Mexican design. It is called a "polumna", meaning "dove". The process of their
manufacture is not unlike that of making a paper football. If one takes a sheet
of paper about 16 inches in length by 1.5 inches wide, and fold one corner so
that it looks like this:
________________________________________________________
| |\
| | \
| | \
|______________________________________________________|___\
and then fold it again so that it looks like this:
_______________________________________________________
| /|
| / |
| / |
|__________________________________________________/___|
A pocket is formed. This pocket can be filled with black powder, pyrodex,
flash powder, gunpowder,rocket engine powder, or any of the quick-burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures that occur in the form of a fine powder. A fuse is then
inserted, and one continues the triangular folds, being careful not to spill
out any of the explosive. When the polumna is finished, it should be taped
together very tightly, since this will increase the strength of the container,
and produce a louder and more powerful explosion when it is lit. The finished
polumna should look like a 1/4 inch - 1/3 inch thick triangle, like the one
shown below:
^
/ \ ----- securely tape all corners
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \____________________________
/_____________\__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/__/ ---------- fuse
[ ] * METAL CONTAINERS*
The classic pipe bomb is the best known example of a metal-contained
explosive. Idiot anarchists take white tipped matches and cut off the match
heads. They pound one end of a pipe closed with a hammer, pour in the white-
tipped matches, and then pound the other end closed. This process often kills
the fool, since when he pounds the pipe closed, he could very easily cause
enough friction between the match heads to cause them to ignite and explode the
unfinished bomb. By using pipe caps, the process is somewhat safer, and the
less stupid anarchist would never use white tipped matches in a bomb. He would
buy two pipe caps and threaded pipe (fig. 1). First, he would drill a hole in
one pipe cap, and put a fuse in it so that it will not come out, and so powder
will not escape during handling. The fuse would be at least 3/4 an inch long
inside the bomb. He would then screw the cap with the fuse in it on tightly,
possibly putting a drop of super glue on it to hold it tight. He would then
pour his explosive powder in the bomb. To pack it tightly, he would take a
large wad of tissue paper and, after filling the pipe to the very top, pack the
powder down, by using the paper as a ramrod tip, and pushing it with a pencil
or other wide ended object, until it would not move any further. Finally, he
would screw the other pipe cap on, and glue it. The tissue paper would help
prevent some of the powder from being caught in the threads of the pipe or pipe
cap from being crushed and subject to friction, which might ignite the powder,
causing an explosion during manufacture. An assembled bomb is shown in fig. 2.
_________ _______________ __________
| | ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ | |
| |vvvvv| |_________________________| |vvvvvv| |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | ___________________________ | |
| | | | | |
| |^^^^^| vvvvvv_______________vvvvvv |^^^^^^| |
|_______| |________|
fig 1. Threaded pipe and endcaps.
________ ________
| _____|________________________________|_____ |
| |__________________________________________| |
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| | tissue | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |_|
| | : : : |- - - low order explosive - - ----------------------
| | paper | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - |-| fuse
| |: : : : |- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -| |
| |________|_________________________________| |
| |__________________________________________| |
|______| |______|
endcap pipe endcap
w/ hole
fig. 2 Assembled pipe bomb.
This is one possible design that a mad bomber would use. If, however,
he did not have access to threaded pipe with endcaps, he could always use a
piece of copper or aluminum pipe, since it is easily bent into a suitable
position. A major problem with copper piping, however, is bending and folding
it without tearing it; if too much force is used when folding and bending copper
pipe, it will split along the fold. The safest method for making a pipe bomb
out of copper or aluminum pipe is similar to the method with pipe and endcaps.
First, one flattens one end of a copper or aluminum pipe carefully, making sure
not to tear or rip the piping. Then, the flat end of the pipe should be folded
over at least once, if this does not rip the pipe. A fuse hole should be
drilled in the pipe near the now closed end, and the fuse should be inserted.
Next, the bomb-builder would fill the bomb with a low order explosive, and pack
it with a large wad of tissue paper. He would then flatten and fold the other
end of the pipe with a pair of pliers. If he was not too dumb, he would do this
slowly, since the process of folding and bending metal gives off heat, which
could set off the explosive. A diagram is presented below:
________
_______________________________________________/ |
| |
| o |
|______________________________________________ |
\_______|
fig. 1 pipe with one end flattened and fuse hole drilled (top view)
______
____________________________________________/ | |
| | |
| o | |
|___________________________________________ | |
\__|__|
fig. 2 pipe with one end flattened and folded up (top view)
____________ fuse hole
|
v
_________________________________________________
| \ |____ |
| \____| |
| ______|
| /
|_____________________________/__________________
fig. 3 pipe with flattened and folded end (side view)
_________________ fuse
/
|
________ ______________________________|___ _______
| ____| / |- - - - - - - - - - -| - - \ |___ |
| |_____/tissue| - - - - - - - - - - - -|- - \_____| |
|________ paper |- - - low order explosive - _______|
\ | - - - - - - - - - - - - - - /
\_____________________________________/
fig. 4 completed bomb, showing tissue paper packing and explosive
(side view)
A CO2 cartridge from a B.B gun is another excellent container for
a low-order explosive. It has one minor disadvantage: it is time consuming
to fill. But this can be rectified by widening the opening of the cartridge
with a pointed tool. Then, all that would have to be done is to fill the
CO2 cartridge with any low-order explosive, or any of the fast burning fuel-
oxodizer mixtures, and insert a fuse. These devices are commonly called
"crater makers".
A CO2 cartridge also works well as a container for a thermit incendiary
device, but it must be modified. The opening in the end must be widened, so
that the ignition mixture, such as powdered magnesium, does not explode. The
fuse will ignite the powdered magnesium, which, in turn, would ignite the
thermit.
The previously mentioned designs for explosive devices are fine for
low-order explosives, but are unsuitable for high-order explosives, since the
latter requires a shockwave to be detonated. A design employing a smaller
low-order explosive device inside a larger device containing a high-order
explosive would probably be used. It would look something like:
_______________________ fuse
|
|
|
_________ | _________
| ____|__________________________|___________|____ |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * high explosive | * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|* * * * * * * | |
| | * ______ _______________|_ ______ * | |
| | * * | __| / - - - - - - | \ |__ | * | |
| | * | |____/ low explosive - \____| | * | |
| | * * |_______ - - - - - - - - - _______| * | |
| | * * * * * \ - - - - - - - - / * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * \_________________/ * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| | * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * | |
| |______________________________________________| |
|_______| |_______|
If the large high explosive container is small, such as a CO2 cartridge,
then a segment of a hollow radio antenna can be made into a low-order pipe bomb,
which can be fitted with a fuse, and inserted into the CO2 cartridge.
[ ] *GLASS CONTAINERS*
Glass containers can be suitable for low-order explosives, but there
are problems with them. First, a glass container can be broken relatively
easily compared to metal or plastic containers. Secondly, in the
not-too-unlikely event of an "accident", the person making the device would
probably be seriously injured, even if the device was small. A bomb made out of
a sample perfume bottle-sized container exploded in the hands of one boy, and he
still has pieces of glass in his hand. He is also missing the final segment of
his ring finger, which was cut off by a sharp piece of flying glass...
Nonetheless, glass containers such as perfume bottles can be used by
a demented individual, since such a device would not be detected by metal
detectors in an airport or other public place. All that need be done is fill
the container, and drill a hole in the plastic cap that the fuse fits tightly
in, and screw the cap-fuse assembly on.
________________________ fuse
|
|
|
_____|_____
| ___|___ |
| > | < | drill hole in cap, and insert fuse;
| > | < | be sure fuse will not come out of cap
| > | < |
| | |
| |
| |
| | screw cap on bottle
| |
| |
V V
_________
< >
< >
< >
/ \
/ \
/ \
| | fill bottle with low-order explosive
| |
| |
| |
| |
|___________|
Large explosive devices made from glass containers are not practicle,
since glass is not an exceptionally strong container. Much of the explosive
that is used to fill the container is wasted if the container is much larger
than a 16 oz. soda bottle. Also, glass containers are usually unsuitable for
high explosive devices, since a glass container would probably not withstand
the explosion of the initiator; it would shatter before the high explosive was
able to detonate.
[ ] * PLASTIC CONTAINERS*
Plastic containers are perhaps the best containers for explosives, since
they can be any size or shape, and are not fragile like glass. Plastic piping
can be bought at hardware or plumbing stores, and a device much like the ones
used for metal containers can be made. The high-order version works well with
plastic piping. If the entire device is made out of plastic, it is not
detectable by metal detectors. Plastic containers can usually be shaped by
heating the container, and bending it at the appropriate place. They can be
glued closed with epoxy or other cement for plastics. Epoxy alone can be used
as an endcap, if a wad of tissue paper is placed in the piping. Epoxy with a
drying agent works best in this type of device.
|| ||
|| ||
||\_____________/||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||***************||
||** explosive **||
||***************||
||***********----------------------- fuse
||***************||
||DDDDDDDDDDDDDDD||
|| ||
|| tissue ||
|| paper ||
||_______________||
|| ||
|| epoxy ||
|| _____________ ||
||/ \||
|| ||
|| ||
One end must be made first, and be allowed to dry completely before the
device can be filled with powder and fused. Then, with another piece of tissue
paper, pack the powder tightly, and cover it with plenty of epoxy. PVC pipe
works well for this type of device, but it cannot be used if the pipe had an
inside diameter greater than 3/4 of an inch. Other plastic puttys can be used
int this type of device, but epoxy with a drying agent works best.
[ ] *SHAPED CHARGES*
A shaped charge is an explosive device that, upon detonation, directs
the explosive force of detonation at a small target area. This process can be
used to breach the strongest armor, since forces of literally millions of pounds
of pressure per square inch can be generated. Shaped charges employ high-order
explosives, and usually electric ignition systems. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL
EXPLOSIVES ARE DANGEROUS, AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE OR USED!!
An example of a shaped charge is shown below.
+ wire ________ _______ - wire
| |
| |
| |
_ _________|_________|____________
^ | ________|_________|__________ |
| | | | | | |
| | | \ igniter / | |
| | | \_______/ | |
| | | priming charge | |
| | | (mercury fulminate) | |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | / \ | |
8 inches high | | / \ | |
| | / high \ | |
| | | / explosive \ | |
| | | / charge \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| | | ^ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | |
| | | / \ | | ------- 1/2 inch
| | | / \ | | thick steel
| | | / \ | | pipe
| | | / \ | |
| | |/ \| |
| hole for | | | | hole for
| screw | | | | screw
| | | | |
V_______ ___________| | | |___________ ________
|______| |____________| |_____________| |______|
|<------- 8 inches -------->|
If a device such as this is screwed to a safe, for example, it would
direct most of the explosive force at a point about 1 inch away from the opening
of the pipe. The basis for shaped charges is a cone-shaped opening in the
explosive material. This cone should have an angle of 45 degrees. A device
such as this one could also be attached to a metal surface with a powerful
electromagnet.
[ ] *TUBE EXPLOSIVES*
A variation on shaped charges, tube explosives can be used in ways that
shaped charges cannot. If a piece of 1/2 inch plastic tubing was filled with
a sensitive high explosive like R.D.X., and prepared as the plastic explosive
container in section 4.44, a different sort of shaped charge could be produced;
a charge that directs explosive force in a circular manner. This type of
explosive could be wrapped around a column, or a doorknob, or a telephone pole.
The explosion would be directed in and out, and most likely destroy whatever
it was wrapped around. In an unbent state, a tube explosive would look like
this:
|| ||
|| ||
||\____/||
|| epoxy||
||______||
|| ||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||______||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| RDX ||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
||******||
|| ____ ||
|| | s| ||
|| | q| ||
|| | u| ||
|| | i| ||
|| | b| ||
|| | b| ||
|| |__| ||
||__||__||
||tissue||
|| paper||
||__||__||
|| || ||
|| epoxy||
|| || ||
|| _||_ ||
||/ || \||
|| || ||
|| || ||
||_______ + wire ______________
|
|________ - wire ______________
When an assassin or terrorist wishes to use a tube bomb, he must wrap
it around whatever thing he wishes to destroy, and epoxy the ends of the tube
bomb together. After it dries, he/she can connect wires to the squib wires,
and detonate the bomb, with any method of electric detonation.
[ ] *ATOMIZED PARTICLE EXPLOSIONS*
If a highly flammable substance is atomized, or, divided into very small
particles, and large amounts of it is burned in a confined area, an explosion
similar to that occurring in the cylinder of an automobile is produced. The
tiny droplets of gasoline burn in the air, and the hot gasses expand rapidly,
pushing the cylinder up. Similarly, if a gallon of gasoline was atomized and
ignited in a building, it is very possible that the expanding gassed would push
the walls of the building down. This phenomenon is called an atomized particle
explosion. If a person can effectively atomize a large amount of a highly
flammable substance and ignite it, he could bring down a large building, bridge,
or other structure. Atomizing a large amount of gasoline, for example, can be
extremely difficult, unless one has the aid of a high explosive. If a gallon
jug of gasoline was placed directly over a high explosive charge, and the charge
was detonated, the gasoline would instantly be atomized and ignited. If this
occurred in a building, for example, an atomized particle explosion would surely
occur. Only a small amount of high explosive would be necessary to accomplish
this feat, about 1/2 a pound of T.N.T. or 1/4 a pound of R.D.X. Also, instead
of gasoline, powdered aluminum could be used. It is necessary that a high
explosive be used to atomize a flammable material, since a low-order explosion
does not occur quickly enough to atomize or ignite the flammable material.
[ ] *BOW AND CROSSBOW AMMUNITION*
Bows and crossbows both fire arrows or bolts as ammunition. It is
extremely simple to poison an arrow or bolt, but it is a more difficult matter
to produce explosive arrows or bolts. If, however, one can acquire aluminum
piping that is the same diameter of an arrow or crossbow bolt, the entire
segment of piping can be converted into an explosive device that detonates
upon impact, or with a fuse. All that need be done is find an aluminum tube
of the right length and diameter, and plug the back end with tissue paper and
epoxy. Fill the tube with any type of low-order explosive or sensitive high-
order explosive up to about 1/2 an inch from the top. Cut a slot in the piece
of tubing, and carefully squeeze the top of the tube into a round point, making
sure to leave a small hole. Place a no. 11 percussion cap over the hole, and
secure it with super glue. Finally, wrap the end of the device with electrical
or duct tape, and make fins out of tape. Or, fins can be bought at a sporting
goods store, and glued to the shaft. The finished product should look like:
_____
| | ---------- no. 11 percussion cap
||*||
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*| ----------- aluminum piping
|*|
|e|
|x|
|p|
|l|
|o|
|s|
|i|
|v|
|e|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
|*|
/|_|\
/ |t| \
| |p| |
| |_| |
| |e| | -------- fins
| |p| |
| |y| |
|_|_|_|
|_|
tp: tissue paper
epy: epoxy
When the arrow or bolt strikes a hard surface, the percussion cap
explodes, igniting or detonating the explosive.
[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR BLOWGUNS*
The blowgun is an interesting weapon which has several advantages.
A blowgun can be extremely accurate, concealable, and deliver an explosive
or poisoned projectile. The manufacture of an explosive dart or projectile
is not difficult. Perhaps the most simple design for such involves the use
of a pill capsule, such as the kind that are taken for headaches or allergies.
Such a capsule could easily be opened, and the medicine removed. Next, the
capsule would be re-filled with an impact-sensitive explosive. An additional
high explosive charge could be placed behind the impact-sensitive explosive,
if one of the larger capsules were used. Finally, the explosive capsule would
be reglued back together, and a tassel or cotton would be glued to the end
containing the high explosive, to insure that the impact-detonating explosive
struck the target first. Such a device would probably be about 3/4 of an inch
long, not including the tassel or cotton, and look something like this:
____________________
/mercury | \-----------------------
(fulminate| R.D.X. )---------------------- } tassels
\________|___________/-----------------------
[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR WRISTROCKETS AND SLINGSHOTS*
A modern wristrocket is a formidable weapon. It can throw a shooter
marble about 500 ft. with reasonable accuracy. Inside of 200 ft., it could well
be lethal to a man or animal, if it struck in a vital area. Because of the
relatively large sized projectile that can be used in a wristrocket, the
wristrocket can be adapted to throw relatively powerful explosive projectiles.
A small segment of aluminum pipe could be made into an impact-detonating device
by filling it with an impact-sensitive explosive material. Also, such a pipe
could be filled with a low-order explosive, and fitted with a fuse, which would
be lit before the device was shot. One would have to make sure that the fuse
was of sufficient length to insure that the device did not explode before it
reached its intended target. Finally, .22 caliber caps, such as the kind that
are used in .22 caliber blank guns, make excellent exploding ammunition for
wristrockets, but they must be used at a relatively close range, because of
their light weight.
[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR SHOTGUNS*
Because of their large bore and high power, it is possible to create
some extremely powerful special ammunition for use in shotguns. If a shotgun
shell is opened at the top, and the shot removed, the shell can be re-closed.
Then, if one can find a very smooth, lightweight wooden dowel that is close to
the bore width of the shotgun, a person can make several types of shotgun-
launched weapons. Insert the dowel in the barrel of the shotgun with the
shell without the shot in the firing chamber. Mark the dowel about six inches
away from the end of the barrel, and remove it from the barrel. Next, decide
what type of explosive or incendiary device is to be used. This device can be a
chemical fire bottle (sect. 3.43), a pipe bomb (sect 4.42), or a thermit bomb
(sect 3.41 and 4.42). After the device is made, it must be securely attached to
the dowel. When this is done, place the dowel back in the shotgun. The bomb or
incendiary device should be on the end of the dowel. Make sure that the device
has a long enough fuse, light the fuse, and fire the shotgun. If the projectile
is not too heavy, ranges of up to 300 ft are possible. A diagram of a shotgun
projectile is shown below:
____
|| |
|| |
|| | ----- bomb, securely taped to dowel
|| |
||__|
|| |
|| | ------- fuse
|| |
||
||
||
|| --------- dowel
||
||
||
||
||
|| --------- insert this end into shotgun
[ ] Shotgun shell bomb
These little goodies are affectionately known as "nut busters." They are
simply shotgun shells enclosed in cardboard rolls with cardboard fins put on.
On the primer end of the shell is glued a small cork with a hole drilled
through it. A roofing nail fits in the hole snugly enough to stay in, but
loose enough to plunge into the primer upon impact.
Since the shell is not confined in the chamber of the gun, it will
naturally not cause the same amount of damage. But if it goes off between a
fellow's legs he can look forward to becoming a soprano.
These bombs are thrown singly or by the handful into the air over milling
crowds. The weight of the shell and stabilization by the fins causes the nut
buster to head straight downward.
It has tremendous effect as its presence is usually a suprise. The threat
of more coming is guaranteed to route any mob.
Not only does it go off on the pavement but it will also explode on
contact with a person's head or shoulder. At night it is impossible to trace
its point of origin.
-----
! %
/> ! % /- Cork
Fins ! ! v
--------------------!%
! % ! !-----! ! % !
! %> !------ ! ! !---! <-- Roofing nail
! ! !-----! ! / !
% --------------------!/
% ! ! ^
%-> ! / ^ %
! / ! %
----- ! Shell
!
!
Close fitting 3-1/2 inch Aluminum Tubing Glued on Shell.
SHOTGUN SHELL BOMB
A clever use for a plain shotgun shell is as a muffler bomb. The shell is
simply shoved up a car's exhaust pipe with a length of stiff wire until it
drops into the muffler. After a few minutes on the road the shell explodes,
totalling out the muffler and treating the driver to a sick kind of panic.
[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR B.B GUNS*
A B.B gun, for this manuscript, will be considered any type of rifle or
pistol that uses compressed air or CO2 gas to fire a projectile with a caliber
of .177, either B.B, or lead pellet. Such guns can have almost as high a muzzle
velocity as a bullet-firing rifle. Because of the speed at which a .177 caliber
projectile flies, an impact detonating projectile can easily be made that has a
caliber of .177. Most ammunition for guns of greater than .22 caliber use
primers to ignite the powder in the bullet. These primers can be bought at gun
stores, since many people like to reload their own bullets. Such primers
detonate when struck by the firing pin of a gun. They will also detonate if
they are thrown at a hard surface at a great speed. Usually, they will also fit
in the barrel of a .177 caliber gun. If they are inserted flat end first, they
will detonate when the gun is fired at a hard surface. If such a primer is
attached to a piece of thin metal tubing, such as that used in an antenna, the
tube can be filled with an explosive, be sealed, and fired from a B.B gun. A
diagram of such a projectile appears below:
_____ primers _______
| |
| |
| |
V V
______ ______
| ________________________ |-------------------
| ****** explosive ******* |------------------- } tassel or
| ________________________ |------------------- cotton
|_____ _____|-------------------
^
|
|
|_______ antenna tubing
The front primer is attached to the tubing with a drop of super glue.
The tubing is then filled with an explosive, and the rear primer is glued on.
Finally, a tassel, or a small piece of cotton is glued to the rear primer, to
insure that the projectile strikes on the front primer. The entire projectile
should be about 3/4 of an inch long.
[ ] *SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR .22 CALIBER PELLET GUNS*
A .22 caliber pellet gun usually is equivalent to a .22 cal rifle, at
close ranges. Because of this, relatively large explosive projectiles can be
adapted for use with .22 caliber air rifles. A design similar to that used in
section 5.12 is suitable, since some capsules are about .22 caliber or smaller.
Or, a design similar to that in section 5.31 could be used, only one would have
to purchase black powder percussion caps, instead of ammunition primers, since
there are percussion caps that are about .22 caliber. A #11 cap is too small,
but anything larger will do nicely.
[ ] *ROCKETS*
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years
before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks.
They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate,
expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used
constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil.
Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they
can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space
age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of
Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their
most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust;
enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance.
Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which
develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable,
and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have
three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
__________________________________________________________
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
\ clay | - - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|c| casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . |l|
______ _ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject |a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - | * * * | . . . .|y|
/________|_____________________|_______|________|_|_______
|_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled
"thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a
propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot,
rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward.
After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is
ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that
has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black,
white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen
when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it
ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finely
powdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The
explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket.
It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine
labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an
indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A"
engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The
number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds.
the final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust
period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a
3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum
dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide.
The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
[ ] *Rocket Bomb*
A rocket bomb is simply what the name implies: a bomb that is delivered
to its target by means of a rocket. Most people who would make such a device
would use a model rocket engine to power the device. By cutting fins from balsa
wood and gluing them to a large rocket engine, such as the Estes "C" engine, a
basic rocket could be constructed. Then, by attaching a "crater maker", or CO2
cartridge bomb to the rocket, a bomb would be added. To insure that the fuse of
the "crater maker" (see sect. 4.42) ignited, the clay over the ejection charge
of the engine should be scraped off with a plastic tool. The fuse of the bomb
should be touching the ejection charge, as shown below.
____________ rocket engine
| _________ crater maker
| |
| |
V |
_______________________________V_
|_______________________________| ______________________
\ | - - - - - -|***|::::| /# # # # # # # # # # # \
\__| - - - - - -|***|::::| ___/ # # # # # # # # # # # \
__ - - - - - -|***|::::|---fuse--- # # explosive # # )
/ | - - - - - -|***|::::| ___ # # # # # # # # # # # /
/___|____________|___|____|____ \_______________________/
|_______________________________|
thrust> - - - - - -
smoke> ***
ejection charge> ::::
Duct tape is the best way to attach the crater maker to the rocket
engine. Note in the diagram the absence of the clay over the ejection charge
Many different types of explosive payloads can be attached to the rocket, such
as a high explosive, an incendiary device, or a chemical fire bottle.
Either four or three fins must be glued to the rocket engine to insure that
the rocket flies straight. The fins should look like the following diagram:
|\
| \
| \
| \ <--------- glue this to rocket engine
| \
| \
| \
| |
| |
| |
leading edge |
-------> |
| |
| | trailing edge
| | <--------
| |
| |
| |
| |
\_____/
The leading edge and trailing edge should be sanded with sandpaper so
that they are rounded. This will help make the rocket fly straight. A two
inch long section of a plastic straw can be attached to the rocket to launch it
from. A clothes hanger can be cut and made into a launch rod. The segment of
a plastic straw should be glued to the rocket engine adjacent to one of the fins
of the rocket. A front view of a completed rocket bomb is shown below.
|
fin | <------ fin
| | |
| | |
| __|__ |
V / \ V
---------------| |---------------
\_____/
|o <----------- segment of plastic straw
|
|
| <------ fin
|
|
By cutting a coat hanger at the indicated arrows, and bending it, a
launch rod can be made. After a fuse is inserted in the engine, the rocket is
simply slid down the launch rod, which is put through the segment of plastic
straw. The rocket should slide easily along a coathanger, such as the one
illustated on the following page:
____
/ \
| |
cut here _____ |
| |
| |
| / \
V / \
_________________/ \________________
/ \
/ \
/____________________________________________\
^
|
|
and here ______|
Bend wire to this shape:
_______ insert into straw
|
|
|
V
____________________________________________
\
\
\
\
\ <--------- bend here to adjust flight angle
|
|
|
|
|
| <---------- put this end in ground
|
[ ] *Rocket Bomb - (Long Range)*
Long range rockets can be made by using multi-stage rockets. Model
rocket engines with an "0" for a time delay are designed for use in multi-
stage rockets. An engine such as the D12-0 is an excellent example of such an
engine. Immediately after the thrust period is over, the ejection charge
explodes. If another engine is placed directly against the back of an "0"
engine, the explosion of the ejection charge will send hot gasses and burning
particles into the nozzle of the engine above it, and ignite the thrust section.
This will push the used "0" engine off of the rocket, causing an overall loss of
weight. The main advantage of a multi-stage rocket is that it loses weight as
travels, and it gains velocity. A multi-stage rocket must be designed somewhat
differently than a single stage rocket, since, in order for a rocket to fly
straight, its center of gravity must be ahead of its center of drag. This is
accomplished by adding weight to the front of the rocket, or by moving the
center of drag back by putting fins on the rocket that are well behind the
rocket. A diagram of a multi-stage rocket appears on the following page:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M | ------ CM: Crater Maker
| |
| |
|___|
| |
| |
| |
| C | ------ C6-5 rocket engine
/| 6 |\
/ | | | \
/ | 5 | \
/ |___| \ ---- fin
/ /| |\ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | | \ \
/ / | C | \ \
| / | 6 | \ |
| / | | | \ |
| / | 0 | \ |
|/ |___| \|
| / \ |
\______/ ^ \______/ ------- fin
|
|
|
|
C6-0 rocket engine
The fuse is put in the bottom engine.
Two, three, or even four stages can be added to a rocket bomb to give it
a longer range. It is important, however, that for each additional stage, the
fin area gets larger.
[ ] *Rocket Bombs - (Multiple Warheads)*
"M.R.V." is an acronym for Multiple Reentry Vehicle. The concept is
simple: put more than one explosive warhead on a single missile. This can be
done without too much difficulty by anyone who knows how to make crater-makers
and can buy rocket engines. By attaching crater makers with long fuses to a
rocket, it is possible that a single rocket could deliver several explosive
devices to a target. Such a rocket might look like the diagram on the
following page:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
|___|
___| |___
| | | |
| | T | |
/ \ | U | / \
/ \| B |/ \
| || E || |
| C || || C |
| M || || M |
| ||___|| |
\___/| E |\___/
| N |
/| G |\
/ | I | \
/ | N | \
/ | E | \
/ |___| \
/ fin/ | \ fin\
| / | \ |
\__/ | \__/
^
|____ fin
The crater makers are attached to the tube of rolled paper with tape.
the paper tube is made by rolling and gluing a 4 inch by 8 inch piece of paper.
The tube is glued to the engine, and is filled with gunpowder or black powder.
Small holes are punched in it, and the fuses of the crater makers are inserted
in these holes. A crater maker is glued to the open end of the tube, so that
its fuse is inside the tube. A fuse is inserted in the engine, or in the bottom
engine if the rocket bomb is multi stage, and the rocket is launched from the
coathanger launcher, if a segment of a plastic straw has been attached to it.
[ ] *Cannon*
The cannon is a piece of artillery that has been in use since the
11th century. It is not unlike a musket, in that it is filled with powder,
loaded, and fired. Cannons of this sort must also be cleaned after each shot,
otherwise, the projectile may jam in the barrel when it is fired, causing the
barrel to explode. A sociopath could build a cannon without too much trouble,
if he/she had a little bit of money, and some patience.
[ ] *Pipe Cannon*
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The
only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior.
This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or
aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to
withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If
one uses a projectile such as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be
made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe
MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth
on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the
pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe.
A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug.
Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of
grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad
of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon
securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is
lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by
pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole
|
|
V
________________________________________________________________
| |______________________________________________________________|
|endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge
| ______|______|____|____________________________________________
|_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2
cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and
construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the
cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for
a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue
paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse,
and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in
about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|\ /|
| | | ---- tape
|_|_|
|
| ------ fuse
[ ] *Rocket Firing Cannon*
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the
only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly
further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the
initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further
than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble
a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
___
/ \
| |
| C |
| M |
| |
| |
|___|
| E |
| N |
| G |
| I |
| N |
| E |
|___|
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not
be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before
the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes.
Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon
will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high
velocity.
[ ] *HOME-BREW BLAST CANON*
Materials:
---> 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter
---> 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter
---> 1 large lighter, w/ fluid refills (this gobbles it up)
---> 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the smaller pipe
---> 5 feet of bell wire
---> 1 SPST rocker switch
---> 1 6v polaroid potapulse battery
---> 1 5v relay (get this at radio shack)
---> electrical tape
---> one free afternoon
Procedure:
1. cut the bell wire into 3 equal pieces, and strip the ends
2. cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the
small pipe; thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should
screw together easily.
3. take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then
attach it to the lever on the lighter like so:
/----------- gas switch is here
________ V
/ \__-----\
! lighter ! ! <--- metal lever
! ! !
! !
Now, every time you pull the "trigger", gas should flow freely from
the lighter; you may need to enlarge the "gas port" on the lighter,
if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
4. connect 2 wires to the two posts on the switch
5. cut to holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on
the bottom, and one for the metal piece on top; then mount the switch
in the bottom, running the wires up and out the top; mount the
lighter/trigger in the top; now the switch should rock easily, and
the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the
smaller tube into the larger one, hold own the trigger a bit, let it
go, and throw a match in there; if all goes well, you should get a
nice big "THUD!"
6. get hold of the relay, and take off the top:
1 ----------+
V
_/
2 --------/ <---- the center object is the metal
^ finger inside the relay
3 ----------+
CC
OO -------- 4
II
LL -------- 5
Connect (1) to one of the wires comming from the switch; connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery; connect the
remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery;
now you should be able to get the relay to make a little "buzzing"
sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little
sparks.
7. now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back; screw on the smaller pipe; tape the battery to
the side of the canon barrel (yes, but looks arent everything)
8. you should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
9. put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You
are now ready for the first trial-run.
To Test:
Put something very very large into the barrel, just so that in fits
"just right". Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you
over if you arent careful). Put on a shoulder pad, and earmuffs, and
possibly some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30
seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper
adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through 1/4 plywood
at 25 feet. Have phun!
[ ] *TEAR GAS*
A terrorist who could make tear gas or some similar compound could use
it with ease against a large number of people. Tear gas is fairly complicated
to make, however, and this prevents such individuals from being able to utilize
its great potential for harm. One method for its preparation is shown below.
EQUIPMENT
1. ring stands (2)
2. alcohol burner
3. erlenmeyer flask, 300 ml
4. clamps (2)
5. rubber stopper
6. glass tubing
7. clamp holder
8. condenser
9. rubber tubing
10. collecting flask
11. air trap
12. beaker, 300 ml
MATERIALS
10 gms glycerine
2 gms sodium bisulfate
distilled water
1.) In an open area, wearing a gas mask, mix 10 gms of glycerine with 2 gms
of sodium bisulfate in the 300 ml erlenmeyer flask.
2.) Light the alcohol burner, and gently heat the flask.
3.) The mixture will begin to bubble and froth; these bubbles are tear gas.
4.) When the mixture being heated ceases to froth and generate gas, or a brown
residue becomes visible in the tube, the reaction is complete. Remove the
heat source, and dispose of the heated mixture, as it is corrosive.
5.) The material that condenses in the condenser and drips into the collecting
flask is tear gas. It must be capped tightly, and stored in a safe place.
[ ] *FIRECRACKERS*
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy.
The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill
it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter
of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as
specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and
insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash
powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide,
nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures
will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper
and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space
for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow
it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use
flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for
colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as the
sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the
device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color
as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will
be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings,
or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode
with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First,
I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material
inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely
powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this
material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER
MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND
EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of
9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler
material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil
I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight
outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't
react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount
of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the
firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine,
professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
[ ] *SKYROCKETS*
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from
model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering
that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly
fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper
and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that
the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the
tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of
flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers,
various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick
in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or
M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with
the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
[ ] *ROMAN CANDLES*
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult
to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are
well worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it
with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must
be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into
about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy
and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy,
and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that
the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the
tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired
color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and
a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of
60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After
mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing
continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should
be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone.
Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow
the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down
fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack
it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed
in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works,
a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of
about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly
larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets,
producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
[ ] *LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION*
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS WHAT COMPANY SELLS
FULL AUTO CO. INC. EXPLOSIVE RECIPES,
P.O. BOX 1881 PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN
37133
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
UNLIMITED CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN
HERMISTON, OREGON
97838
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
SR BOX 30 SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA
18328
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS,
125 RUNNELS STREET AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226
PORT HURON, MICHIGAN
48060
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927
ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
14692
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. TEAR GAS GRENADES,
316 CALIFORNIA AVE. PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA
89509
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 1451
JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN
53547
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC. CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504
STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT
06095
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
RAINBOW TRAIL CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581
EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA
19028
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD
RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN
49878
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 11 (GOOD PRICES!)
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA
46975
_____________________________________________________________________________
__
BOOKS
THE ANARCHIST'S COOKBOOK
THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
[ ] *CHECKLIST FOR RAIDS ON LABS*
In the end, the serious terrorist would probably realize that if he/she
wishes to make a truly useful explosive, he or she will have to steal the
chemicals to make the explosive from a lab. A list of such chemicals in order
of priority would probably resemble the following:
LIQUIDS SOLIDS
Nitric Acid Potassium Perchlorate
Sulfuric Acid Potassium Chlorate
95% Ethanol Picric Acid (usually a powder)
Toluene Ammonium Nitrate
Perchloric Acid Powdered Magnesium
Hydrochloric Acid Powdered Aluminum
Potassium Permanganate
Sulfur
Mercury
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Hydroxide
Phosphorus
Sodium Azide
Lead Acetate
Barium Nitrate
[ ] *USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY*
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic
ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge
of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following
reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school
chemistry book.
1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide
K(OH) + HClO ----> KClO + H O
4 4 2
2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide
" + HNO ----> KNO + "
3 3
3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HClO ----> NH ClO + "
3 4 3 4
4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide
NH OH + HNO ----> NH NO + "
3 3 3 3
5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A. aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H
3 2
B. 2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al
3 2
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container
which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and
sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high
explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.
[ ] *ways to Torture a Cat*
Many times I have wanted to beat the shit out of that furry little bastard
that always seems to piss me off. Either by taking a nice warm shit on my
brand new carpet, or decided to use me as a clawing device.
I'd like to suggest ways to hurt or piss off the little shithead that you
can't get rid of, usually cause you're mom thinks it's the nicest fucker alive.
1 -- Kick it Around, you know, when the fucker get's in your way, whether it
be when you're taking a shit and it comes in and watches, or when you're
sleeping and it sits on your face. Just put a little force into it and BLAM!
The fucker goes flying. It's especially nice to watch a cat go flying on a
wood floor, with all four spread, doing 360's and crying like a Mexican
without his burrito. Kicking him from under (like under the stomach) let's
loose a flying cat, spinning and twirling in the air.
2 -- Tail tricks....This is the fun part...Seeing the cat can't really get to
it's tail, you can do shit with it and the cat it defenseless. Try tying the
cat's tail to his front paw, cause everyone time it walks, it's tail get's
pulled, looks like some diseased person trying to walk. Or even better, get a
nice grab of the tail, and start spinning the cat around using it, the cat
will have to take the pain, cause by force of nature, it can't reach it's paws
around to scratch you since it's spinning so fast it's paws are spread-eagle
like. If you have glue, and the cat's tail is long enough, or maybe just a
tad shorter, you can glue it's tail to it's nose, which is cool. The cat moves
his head and his ass comes up with it (how'z that for a chain reaction?)
Like it'll be walking around town with it's ass all dangling up, all the other
furry fucks will ram it up, which in turn, will make the cat freak when it
tries to sit down (get it?). But that's kinda mean.
3 -- whiskers (heh, heh, heh)....Ok, you know who you are people, you kind that
clips cat's whiskers and laughs like hell. Cat's use whiskers to navigate in the
dark, like when they're entering a tight spot, their whiskers will tell them if
they're about to run into something (kind of like those cadillacs with those
metal tubes sticking out the side). So what do you do? You cut the fuckers
whiskers, down to you start getting fur. Then you gotta through the cat in a
closet, and open the door, oh, about 4 inches. The cat will naturally be
fucked and stunned that us humans would do such a thing (it probably is
equlivant of a cat cutting off your dick) and he'll start bumping around,
wondering what the fuck....So you just sit there and laugh your ass off.
The cat might eventually make it's way out of the closet, but maybe you could,
hmmm...
4 -- Pillow Case....Well, this is kind of funny...All you do is throw the
little fuck in a pillow case, and go into an open room (you don't want to beat
it to death, well, not yet atleast). And start swinging the fucker around in
circles, again and again, the cat will probably be crying for it's life (but
don't give in to it's whining, cause when it get's out, it wants blood) keep
swinging it around and around, faster and faster, stop when you're too dizzy
to figure out where the cat is, then quickly open the pillow case and let the
bastard fall out (it WILL fall, believe me). You got to make sure you can see
it (cause you're gonna be almost as dizzy). The fucker will be sitting there,
moving it's head in circles, still thinking its spinning. This is the good part,
cause as far as the cat knows, it's totally high on Catnip or something. You
can do anything, it's up to you.
4 -- Water ...We all know that cats hate water more than dogs, and would
rather travel in a car then deal with it. But cat's are funny as hell in water.
Try filling up a tub, or a sink, or something with water in it that the cat will
fit in. Throw the fucker in for a minute or two (unless it's definitely going
to drown, we'll talk about killing them later) and watch it squeal..They act
like water is acid or something and yet they still drink water out of the toilet
when none is available (these fuckers gotta get their facts straight). After
the cat has had enough torture, grab it by the ear, or tail, or get a good grab
around it's head and throw it out (throw it outside you fool). When a cat get's
wet (especially a long-haired cat) they look like giant ferrets, really nasty
like (which might persuade you to do something else, like nail it to a 2 by 4
and shoot it full of b-b's) but don't hurt it too bad..
5 -- Misc. shit....Stick the cat in the Microwave (no, really) and don't turn
it on (yet) just let it sit there, and look through the little see-through
window...It should be scared as hell, since it's in a really tight spot, can't
move much at all...If you really want to screw the fucker, nuke it! Just nuke
it for 20 seconds at a time...The cat will start squirming at about 10 seconds
(depending on the wattage of the Microwave)...After about 30 seconds, the
cat will definitely have radiation poisioning, which will probably kill it
within a month or less. If you nuke it for a minute, you'll probably kill it,
depending on the size of the cat, the microwave cooks inside out, so after a
minute, it's intestines and lungs will be a little toasty, maybe killing it, if
not, probably sterilizing it or leaving it a slow and terrible death. Of
course, you can go "All-Out" if you REALLY express rage for it, and can nuke it
for 5 minutes...This is NOT for the Squeamish....I DO know someone who did this,
and saw it....It was pretty fucking gross, and being the cat hater I am, I still
felt sorry for it. In 30 seconds, it starts kicking and screaming and freaking
out (which brings me to the point, you gotta make sure the door can't be
opened, and you gotta make sure you don't want the microwave anymore). In 1
minute, it was started to spaz like nothing you've ever seen before, some blood
was coming from it's mouth due to internal cuts the Nuking did, all types of
seisures and some last moans were following at 2 minutes. At about 2 and a
half minutes, the cat was still alive, it's pupils were dialated and it was
twitching like someone stuck a Electrolysis gun up it's ass...At 3 minutes, it's
almost dead...The smell of the cat would make any mortician throw up, that's why
I would suggest alot of open windows and doors and some type of gas mask on. The
last two minutes it the cool part...Now that the fucker is dead (for good reason
too) it's time to watch the fireworks...I think at around 4 minutes, the cat
started popping, it's eyeballs literally popped out of it's sockets, and the
blood started to ooze, not a pretty sight..At about, 4 mins 15 seconds, it's
fur starts to curl (although it was already crispy) and at about 5 minutes, the
whole microwave is one big slaughterhouse. Which brings me to clean up...DON'T!
I said earlier, Nuke the cat in a microwave you no longer want to use (not to
mention the microwave is probably broken anyway). Just throw the microwave away
and chuckle off a couple laughs...Even take poloraids if you want.
[ ] *Tennis Ball Bomb #2
1. Gasoline
2. Tennis Ball
3. Piece of Cloth
4. Can of wd-40
First punch a hole in the tennis ball about the size of a nickel. Then
simply pour gasoline into the small hole you have punched into the ball. The
ball should be filled almost to the top with gasoline. After you have
finished that small task, roll up the piece of cloth you have so it will fit
into the hole you have made in the ball. Now spray the rolled up cloth with
wd-40. Be sure the cloth (when rolled) is about 1.5 feet long so you have
enough time to run once lit. Now stick the cloth into the hole you have
punched into the ball. You now have what should look like an old fashioned
bomb. Now all you have to do next is find a good place to light it and you
should be all set. The small explosive could do one of 2 things. It could
explode (hopefully) or it could put out quite a shower of fire.
[ ] Splatter Bomb
1.Small Jar
2.Piece of cloth
3.Oil
4.Gasoline
This small and very simple bomb is the funnest, and most deadly for its
size. Simple take 75% gasoline and 25% oil and mix them together in the
small jar. Then punch a hole in the lid of the jar (nickel size). Now roll
up the cloth and make it like a fuse. Then dip the very tip of the cloth fuse
in the mixture of oil and gas. Now screw the lid to the jar (with the hole in
it). Insert the cloth fuse with the small area you dipped in the mixture on
top (so you can light it). Now go out onto the street and light the fuse, and
throw the jar with gas,etc. in the air and run. When the jar hits the street
it will break and splatter gas and oil everywhere making a huge fire. The oil
will stick to anything causing the gas and oil to burn whatever it hits. Even
a small drop of the mixture would burn for about 30 seconds or longer. When
the lit fuse makes contact with the mixture watchout!
[ ] *Gasoline balloon*
1.Balloon
2.Gasoline
3.Small rubber tube
4.Ability to syfin
5.Sulfer fuse
6.Spray bottle
In order to create this you must have to be able to syfin gasoline. Take
the rubber tube and put it in your supply of gasoline. Then syfin some gas
through the tube. Now quickly! insert the tube into the mouth of the balloon.
If you syfined correctly gas should be pouring into the balloon (making it like
a water balloon, but only a gas balloon). Once the balloon is as full as you
want to get it stop the gas flow and tie the balloon. Now tie the sulfer fuse
around the balloon (like you would with a string). Then fill your empty spray
bottle half full of gas. When done with that, spray the outside of the
balloon with gas. Now set the balloon in a safe open area and light the fuse.
When you light this it will make the balloon pop, and when it pops it will
either explode or make a hugh wave of gasoline. I have had both happen several
times.
[*Peroxyacetone*]
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and shock sensitive
Materials:
4ml Acetone
4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops of concentrated Hydrochloric Acid
150mm Test tube
Add 4ml Acetone and 4ml Hydrogen Peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops
concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to
appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40
Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and
filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite,
light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a
meter away)
[*Plastic Explosive*]
Ingredients:
-Gasoline - 1 Part
-Oil - 1 Half part
-Styrofoam - 1
1) Melt styrofoam. Remember never at any time let the mixture get too hot.
2) Let it cool to a thick viscosity.
3) Mix 3 Ingredients together in the following order: First add styrofoam, then
Oil, then Gas.
4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this step
with extreme caution.
5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer than room temperature - Around
88 Degrees Farenheit.
6) Mold the mixture how you want. (Different shapes will make it more or less
lethal).
Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with
gunpowder, 2 M-80'S, or any other type of explosive to make it the "Equivilant
of a Molotov Cocktail.
Note: The fragments (nuts, bolt, etc. are deadly. They will penetrate a brick
wall when the mixture is detonated.
DETONATION:
1) THE MIXTURE CAN BE WIRED FOR AN ELECTRIC CHARGE TO BE SENT THROUGH IT, IT
WILL DETONATE WITHOUT DOUBT. A REGULAR FUSE CAN BE SENT THROUGH IT
ALSO.
IF THIS METHOD IS USED, SOME SORT OF TIMER IS RECOMMENDED.
[*Plastic Explosive #2*]
1) Mix: 2 Parts Vaseline : 1 Part Gasoline
2) Ignite with an electric charge
[*Plastique Explosive from Aspirin*]
This explosive is a phenol dirivative. It is toxic and explosive made from
picric acid are poisonous if inhaled, ingested, or handled and absorbed through
the skin. The toxicity of this explosive restrict's its use due to the fact that
over exposure in most cases causes liver and kidney failure and sometimes death
if immediate treatment is not obtained.
This explosive is a cousin to T.N.T. but is more powerful than it's cousin. It
is the first explosive used militarily and was adopted in 1888 as an artillery
shell filler. Originally this explosive was derived from coal tar but thanx to
modern chemistry you can make this explosive easily in approximately three
hours from acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin purified).
This procedure involves dissolving the acetylsalicylic acid in warm sulfuric
acid and adding sodium or potassium nitrate which nitrates the purified aspirin
Band the whole mixture drowned in water and filtered to obtain the final
product. This explosive is called trinitrophenol. Care should be taken to
ensure that this explosive is stored in glass containers. Picric acid will form
dangerous salts when allowed to contact all metals exept tin and aluminum. These
salts are primary explosive and are super sensitive. They also will cause the
detonation of the picric acid.
To make picric acid obtain some aspirin. The cheaper brands work best but
buffered brands should be avoided. Powder these tablets to a fine consistancy.
@To extract the acetylsalicylic acid from this powder place this methyl alcohol
and stir vigorously. Not all of the powder will dissolve. Filter this powder out
of the alcohol. Again wash this powder that was filtered out of the alcohol with
more alcohol but with a lesser amount than the first extraction. Again filter
the remaining powder out of the alcohol. Combine the now clear alcohol and allow
it to evaporate in a pyrex dish. When the alcohol has evaporated there will be a
surprising amount of crystals in the bottom of the pyrex dish. Take fourty grams
of these purified acetylsalicylic acid crystals and dissolve them in 150 ml. of
sulfuric acid (98%, specify gravity 1.8) and heat to dissolve all the crystals.
This heating can be done in a common electric frying pan with the thermostat set
on 150 deg. F. and filled with a good cooking oil. When all the crystals have
dissolved in the sulfuric acid take the beaker, that you've done all this
dissolving in (600 ml.), out of the oil bath. This next step will need to be
done with a very good ventilation system (it idea to do any chemistry work such
as the whole procedure and any procedure on this disk with good ventilation or
outside). Slowly start adding 58 g. of sodium nitrate or 77 g. of potassium
nitrate to te acid mixture in the beaker very slowly in small portions with
vigorous stirring. A red gas nitrogen trioxide) will be formed and this should
be avoided. The mixture is foam up and the addition should be stopped until the
foaming goes down to prevent the overflow of the acid mixture in the beaker.
When the potassium nitrate has been added the mixture is allowed to cool
somewhat (30-40 deg. C.). The solution should then be dumped slowly into twice
it's volume of crushed ice and water. The brilliant yellow crystals will form
in the water. These should be filtered out and placed in 200 ml. of boiling
distilled water. This water is allowed to cool and then the crystals are then
filtered out of the water. These crystals are a very, very pure trinitrophenol.
These crystals are then placed in a pyrex dish and places in an oil bath and
heated to 80 deg. C. and held there for 2 hours. This temperature is best
maintained and checked with a thermometer. The crystals are then powdered in
small quantities to a face powder consistency. These powdered crystals are then mixed
with 10% by weight wax and 5% vaseline which are heated to melting temperature
and poured @into the crystals. The mixing is best done by kneading together
with gloved hands. This explosive should have a useful plsticity range of
0-40 deg. C.. The detonation velocity should be around 7000 m/sec.. It is toxic
to handle but simply made from common ingredients and is suitable for most
demolition work requiring a moderately high detonation velocity. It is very
suitable for shaped charges and some steel cutting charges. It is not as good
an explosive as C-4 or other R.D.X. based explosives but it is much easier to
make. Again this explosive is very toxic and should be treated with great
care. AVOID HANDLING BARE-HANDED, BREATHING DUST AND FUMES, AVOID ANY
CHANCE
OF INGESTION. AFTER UTENSILS ARE USED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF THIS
EXPLOSIVE
RETIRE THEM FROM THE KITCHEN AS THE CHANCE OF POISONING IS NOT WORTH THE
RISK.
THIS EXPLOSIVE, IF MANUFACTURED AS ABOVE, AHOULD BE SAFE IN STORAGE BUT
WITH ANY
HOMEMADE EXPLOSIVE STORAGE OS NOT RECOMENDED AND EXPLOSIVES SHOULD BE
MADE UP
AS NEEDED.
A V O I D CO N T A C T W I T H A L L M E T A L S E X E C E P T T I N
[*Plastique Explosive from Bleach*]
This explosive is a potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and
explosives of similar composition were used in World War II as the main
explosive filler in gernades, land mines, and mortar used by French, German, and
other forces involoved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to
manufacture. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free of sulfur,
sulfides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures
that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while
in storage. The manufacture of this explosive from bleach is given as just an
expediant method. This method of manufacturing chlorate is not economical due to
the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the 'dissociation'
reaction to take place. This procedure does work and yields a relatively pure
and a sulfur/sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and
require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium
chlorate from bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution) obtain a heat source
(hot plate stove etc.) a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel
container (to weigh chemicals), and some potassium chloride (sold as salt
substitute). Take one bleach, place it in the container and begin heating it.
While this solution heats, weigh out 63 g. potassium chloride and add this to
the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boiled until when
checked by a hydrometer the reading is 1.3 (if a battery hydrometer is used it
should read full charge). When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it
cool in the refrigerator until it's between room temperature and 0 deg. C..
Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil the solution again
until it reads 1.3 on the hydrometer and again cool the solution. Filter out the
crystals formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before.
Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix
them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 g. per 100 ml.
water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow it to cool. Filter the
solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. The process if
purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be
relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistency of face
powder (400 mesh) and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts
vasoline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove
gasoline) and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the crystals from
the above operation) in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until immediately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place
this explosive in a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfide, and
phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and
density (1.3g./cc.) and dipped in wax to water proof. These block type charges
guarantee the highest detonation velocity. This explosive is really not suited
to use in shaped charge applications due to its relatively low detonation
velocity. It is comparable to 40% ammonia dynamite and can be considered the
same for the sake of charge computation. If the potassium chlorate is bought
and not made it is put into the manufacture process in the powdering stages
preceding the addition of the wax/vaseline mixture. This explosive is bristant
and powerful. The addition of 2-3% aluminum powder increases its blast effect.
Detonation velocity is 3300 m/sec..
[*Plastique Explosives From Swimming Pool Chlorinating Compound*
This explosive is a chlorate explosive from bleach. This method of production
of potassium or sodium chlorate is easier and yields a more pure product than
does the plastique explosive from bleach process. In this reaction the H.T.H.
(calcium hypochlorite CaC10) is mixed with water and heated with either sodium
chloride (table salt, rock salt) or potassium chloride (salt substitute). The
latter of these salts is the salt of choice due to the easy crystalization of
the potassium chlorate. This mixture will need to be boiled to ensure complete
reaction of the ingredients. Obtain some H.T.H. swimming pool chlorination
compound or equivilant (usually 65% calcium hypochlorite). As with the bleach
process mentioned earlier the reaction described below is also a dissociation
reaction. In a large pyrex glass or enamled steel container place 1200g. H.T.H.
Band 220g. potassium chloride or 159g. sodium chloride. Add enough boiling water
to dissolve the powder and boil this solution. A chalky substance (calcium
chloride) will be formed. When the formation of this chalky substance is no
longer formed the solution is filtered while boiling hot. If potassium chloride
was used potassium chlorate will be formed. This potassium chlorate will drop
out or crystalize as the clear liquid left after filtering cools. These
crystals are filtered out when the solution reaches room temperature. If the
sodium chloride salt was used this clear filtrate (clear liquid after
filteration) will need to have all water evaporated. This will leave crystals
which should be saved.
These crystals should be heated in a slightly warm oven in a pyrex dish to
drive off all traces of water (40-75 deg. C.). These crystals are ground to a
very fine powder (400 mesh).
If the sodium chloride salt is used in the initial step the crystalization is
much more time consuming. The potassium chloride is the salt to use as the
resulting product will crystalize out of the solution as it cools. The powdered
and completely dry chlorate crystals are kneaded together with vaseline in a
plastic bowl. ALL CHLORATE BASED EXPLOSIVES ARE SENSITIVE TO FRICTION AND
SHOCK
AND THESE SHOULD BE AVOIDED. If sodium chloride is used in this explosive it
will have a tendancy to cake and has a slightly lower detonation velocity.
This (explosive is composed of the following:
potassium/sodium chlorate 90%
vaseline 10%
A The detonation velocity can be raised to a slight extent by the
addition of
2-3% aluminum sunstituted for 2-3% of the vaseline. This addition
of this aluminum will give the explosive a bright flash if set off at
night which will ruin night vision for a short while. The detonation velocity of
this explosive is approximately 3200 m/sec. for the potassium salt and 2900
m/sec. for the sodium salt based explosive.
[*Portable Grenade Launcher*]
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an
aluminum arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade
FFFF, it burns easy)and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole
left where the ferrule went. Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you
are ready to go! Make sure no one is nearby.... Little shreds of
aluminum go all over the place!!
[*R.D.X.*]
R.D.X., also called cyclonite, or composition C-1 (when mixed with
plasticisers) is one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This is
because it has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier to
detonate. It should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a not-too
severe shock. It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate, or nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone. R.D.X. can be made by the
surprisingly simple method outlined hereafter. It is much easier to make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible exception of ammonium
nitrate.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
hexamine 500 ml beaker
methenamine glass stirring rod
fuel tablets (50 g) funnel and filter paper
concentrated nitric acid (550 ml) ice bath container
distilled water (plastic bucket)
table salt centigrade thermometer
ice blue litmus paper
ammonium nitrate
1) Place the beaker in the ice bath, (see section 3.13, steps 3-4) and carefully
pour 550 ml of concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid has cooled to below 20 degrees centigrade, add small amounts of
the crushed fuel tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it
must be kept below 30 degrees centigrade, or dire consequences could result.
Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the temperature below zero degrees centigrade, either by adding more ice
and salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath. Or, ammonium
nitrate could be added to the old ice bath, since it becomes cold when it is
put in water. Continue stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below
zero degrees centigrade for at least twenty minutes
4) Pour the mixture into a litre of crushed ice. Shake and stir the mixture,
and allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals, and
dispose of the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the crystals into one half a litre of boiling distilled water. Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper. Repeat steps 4 and 5
until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make the crystals more stable
and safe.
6) Store the crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry completely
using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as an explosive.
7) Composition C-1 can be made by mixing 88.3% R.D.X. (by weight) with 11.1%
mineral oil, and 0.6% lecithin. Kneed these material together in a plastic
bag. This is a good way to desensitize the explosive.
8) H.M.X. is a mixture of T.N.T. and R.D.X.; the ratio is 50/50, by weight.
it is not as sensitive, and is almost as powerful as straight R.D.X.
9) By adding ammonium nitrate to the crystals of R.D.X. after step 5, it should
be possible to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since ammonium
nitrate is very insensitive and powerful. Soduim or potassium nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the R.D.X.
10) R.D.X. detonates at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed to a
density of 1.55 g/cubic cm.
[*Spontanious Combustion*]
Look for powdered aluminum at a good painting supply.
METHOD # 1: Scatter out a few crystals 'of chromic anhydride. Drop on a little
ethyl alcohol. It will burst into flame immediately.
METHOD # 2: Mix by weight, four parts ammonium chloride, one part ammonium
nitrate, four parts powered zinc. Pour out a small pile of this and make a
depression on top. Put one or two drops of water in the depression.Stay well
back from this.
METHOD # 3: Put one gram of powdered potassium permanganate into a paper cup.
Drop two drops of glycerine onto it. After a few seconds it will burst into
flames.
METHOD # 4: Spoon out a small pile of powdered aluminum. Place a small amount of
sodium peroxide on top of this. A (volume the size of a small pea is about
right. One drop of water will cause this to ignite in a blinding flare.
METHOD # 5: Mix by volume 3 parts concentrated sulfuric acid with 2 parts
concentrated nitric acid. Hold a dropper of turpentine about 2 feet above the
mixture. When drops strike the acid they will burst into flame.
[ ] *"AFPO"*
NEEDED;
Amononium Hydroxide (again)
"Fuel Oil(s)(white gasoline works)
Gelitin(no, NOT FLAVORED!)
Mix the AH with the FUEL OIL, until very thoughly mixed in to a thin liquid,
then add the GELITIN, yes, this is a gel explosive, until you "feel it's the
right thickness for your work, you can get it thick enough to be solid, use
waterproof fuses, with a little NI3 at the end to make sure the stuff goes off
with a good boom, THIS IS A VERY STABLE EXPLOSIVE, IT IS ALSO 3 TIMES MORE
POWERFUL THAN DYNAMITE. A thin wire with high voltage running through it
in the gel makes a good detonater too.
Have you ever heard of the millitary high power explosive, NI3?
It's 4 to 6 time MORE POWERFUL than dynamite, and, HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT!
needed:
IODINE CRYSTALS
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE
Put the AH in a GLASS bowl, and disolve the Iodine in it, in a couple
of minutes, new crystals will form. They are highly volitile, and illeagal
to have,For what ever it's worth.
Do not DROP, CRUSH, HEAT, or FUCK with them, take very extreme percausions
with them, pad them in an air tight bottle.
ONE TEASPOON HAS THE IMPACT POWER OF
ONE M-100 FIRECRACKER.
[ ] * AMMONIUM PICRATE *
Ammonium picrate, also called Explosive D, is another safety explosive.
It requires a substantial shock to cause it to detonate, slightly less than that
required to detonate ammonium nitrate. It is much safer than picric acid, since
it has little tendency to form hazardous unstable salts when placed in metal
containers. It is simple to make from picric acid and clear household ammonia.
All that need be done is put the picric acid crystals into a glass container and
dissolve them in a great quantity of hot water. Add clear household ammonia in
excess, and allow the excess ammonia to evaporate. The powder remaining should
be ammonium picrate.
[*Astrolite G*]
"Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very
high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.), compared with 7,700MPS for
nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition, a very unusual characteristic
is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the
ground while remaining detonatable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained
detonatable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to
rainy weather" know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite!
To make (mix in fairly large container & outside)
Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight
'anhydrous' hydrazine, produces Astrolite G...Simple enough eh? I'm sure that
the 2:1 ratio is not perfect,and that if you screw around with it long enough,
that you'll find a better formula. Also, dunno why the book says 'anhydrous'
hydrazine, hydrazine is already anhydrous...
Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold
of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydra-
zide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization catalyst,
plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic developers,
diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with.
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propellant
research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most
powerful non-nuclear explosive -at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT.
Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT (not that it isn't safe
in the first place) and Nitroglycerin.
[*Astrolite A/A-1-5*]
Ok, here's the good part...
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then mix with
hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a
detonation velocity of 7,800MPS.
You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you,if it happens
though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able
to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.
[*Expedient Grenades*]
There are many possibilities in the field of grenade manufacture, but for
the most part, when you're dealing with grenades that must be constructed of
easily available materials, the quality and the safety of the grenade is reduced
dramatically. Here I will deal with this problem, trying to produce a
reasonable type of grenade that is relatively safe, can be stored and
transported easily, but produces dramatic effects. I strongly suggest that if
you find it possible, you are far better off getting a REAL grenade than trying
to produce one yourself, but you can be the judge. As always, I want to note
that this is all for educational purposes only, and I do not recommend anyone
trying any of the following for real.
The first thing you need is explosives. If you can't get black powder, or
gun powder, or make your own plastic explosives (we know there sure are enough
text files floating around to explain how to make all of the above!) than you're
really in a for making a grenade of this type. You'll also need a coffee can, a
smaller sized can (probably like an orange juice can, or V8), a coat hanger, and
a fuse. As for explosives, mercury fulminate is extremely good for this sort of
thing. You could probably get together a ton of firecrackers and take out the
black powder (if you'r desperate) or get a couple quarter sticks from someone. The
explosive goes in the juice can. Don't pack it together too tight. Loose black
powder is better than compressed. This is the main explosive. Cut up the coat
hanger into little pieces approximately 1/2" long and fill up the coffee can
until you can put the juice can in and the top of the juice can is level with
the top of the coffee can. If you don't have the time, and need to fill up the
space faster, chuck in a couple small rocks or pieces of glass, and stuff like
that until you have the bottom of the can filled. Now place the juice can in
the coffee can, and center it. Then fill the space around the coffee can with
coat hanger stuff until the juice can is relatively stable. Put a model rocket
fuse in the explosive in the juice can. Leave (at least) 3 1/2" to light from.
If necessary, secure the juice can or the explosive with some masking tape,
etc... as long as it doesn't interfere with the action of the grenade. Take
the lid of the coffee can and cut a hole so that the fuse is exposed. You now
have a fragmentation grenade. It might be a good idea to practice with a
football for a while before trying to destroy the neighbor's garage with it.
[*Explosive Pen*]
Materials Needed
1] One Ball Point `Click` pen
2] Gun Powder
3] 8 or 10 match heads
4] 1 Match stick
5] a little sheet of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")
Procedure
1] Unscrew pen and remove all parts but leave the button in the to
in the pen.
2] Stick the match stick in the part of the pen clicker where the
other little parts and the ink fill was.
3] Roll sand paper up and put around the match stick that is in the
clicker.
4] Put the remaining Match Heads inside the pen, make sure that they
are on the inside on the sand paper.
5] Put a small piece of paper or something in the other end of the
pen where the ball point comes out.
6] Fill the end with the piece of paper in it with gun powder. The
paper is to keep the powder from spilling.
(The Finished pen should look like this:
Small Paper Clog Gun Powder Matches & Sandpaper
\ | |
\ | |
\ _________________|____________________|________
<_______________________________|_______________|===
/
Clicker /
Planting The Device
-------------------
There are many ways to use this little device. Here are a few of my favorite
ways to use this handy little Anti-Personal-Device
In School
1] Replace it with a friends pen, it helps if it is the same color
Style. But if you get it there and he/she goes to write, watch
the sparks fly!
2] You know how all these poor nigs are always asking you for a pen
well this is the way to fix it! just give 'em this little pen and
I gurantee they will never ask you for another pen again.
3] Replace the teachers pen with it.
In The Office
No Office experience, unless its the schools office, replace it with
the principals or receptionist pens. They'll get a `bang` out of it!
[*Fertilizer Bomb*]
Materials:
A bag of fertilizer
Some Cotton
Some Starter Fluid (etherous kind)
Some Newspaper
Fold the newspaper until its in sort of a pocket shape, then fill it up with
fertilizer (not too much).. Next, put cotton on top of the fertilizer. Then,
pour some starter fluid on it (the fertilizer), wrap up the newspaper (you can
use tape). Now this isnt the kind of bomb you leave lying around for a couple
days, as it drys out. When you want to use it, just light the edge of the
newspaper and throw it. Pretty simple, eh?
[*Filler explosive*]
85% sodium chlorate
10% vaseline
5% aluminum powder
[*Fire Bomb*]
Take carbon disulfide and dissolve white phosphorous in it. Put it in a
stoppered bottle and throw it at something you would like to see on fire.
When the cs2 evaporates, it leaves a film of phoshorous on what ever it hits,
and it starts a fire with the solvent vapors.
[*Grain-Elevator Explosion*]
Want to try your own 'Grain-Elevator explosion'? Get a candle and some flour..
Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting
the flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The
enormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do
at about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators,
much the same thing happens.if you can get your hands on some lycopodium powder.
This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected.
[*Impact Mixture*]
Materials:
50% red phosphorus
50% sodium chlorate
Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when
mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
[*Incendiary Mixture*]
Materials:
55% aluminum powder (atomized)
45% sodium chlorate
5% sulfur
[*Gelatine Explosive from Anti-Freeze*]
This explosive is almost the same as the nitro-gelatin plastique except that it
is supple and pliable to -10 to -20 deg. C.. Antifreeze is easier to obtain
than glycerine and is usually cheaper. It needs to be freed of water before the
manufacture and this can be done by treating it with calcium chloride until a
specific gravity of 1.12 @ o deg. C. or 1.11 @ 20 deg. C. is obtained. This can
be done by adding calcium chloride to the antifreeze and checking with a
hydrometer and continue to add calcium chloride proper reading is obtained. The
antifreeze is then filtered to remove the calcium chloride from the liquid. This
explosive is superior to nitro-gelatin in that it is easier to collidon the IMR
smokeless powder into the explosive and that the 50/50 ether ethyl alcohol can
be done away with. It is superior in that the formation of the collidon is done
very rapidly by the nitroethelene glycol. It's detonation properties are
practically the same as the nitro-gelatine. Like the nitro-gelatine it is highly
flammable and if caught on fire the chances are good that the flame will
progress to detonation. In this explosive as in nitro-gelatine the addition of
1% sodium carbonate is a good idea to reduce the chance of recidual acid being
present in the final explosive. The following is a slightly different formula
than nitro-gelatine:
Nitro-glycol 75%
Guncotton (IMR) 6%
Potassium Nitrate 14%
Flour (baking) 5%
In this process the 50/50 step is omitted. Mix the potassium nitrate with the
9nitro-glycol. Remember that this nitro-glycol is just as sensitive to shock as
is nitroglycerin. The next step is to mix in the flour and sodium carbonate.
=Mix these by kneading with gloved hands until the mixture is uniform. This
kneading should be done gently and slowly. The mixture should be uniform when
<the IMR smokeless powder is added. Again this is kneaded to uniformity. Use
this explosive as soon as possible. If it must be stored, store in a cool, dry
Bplace (0-10 deg. C.). This explosive should detonate at 7600-7800 m/sec.. These
two explosives are very powerful and should be sensitive to a #6 blasting cap
@or equivelent. These explosives are dangerous and should not be made unless the
manufacturer has had experience with this type compound. The foolish and
ignorant may as well forget these explosives as they won't live to get to use
them. Don't get me wrong, these explosives have been manufactured for years
with an amazing record of safety. Millions of tons of nitroglycerine have been
made and used to manufacture dynamite and explosives of this nature with very
few mishaps. Nitroglycerin and nitroglycol will kill and their main victims are the
stupid and foolhardy. Before manufacturing these explosives take nitroglycerin
and soak into a small piece of filter paper and place it on an anvil. Hit this
drop with a hammer and don't put any more on the anvil. See what I mean! This
explosive compound is not to be taken lightly. If there are any doubts DON'T.
[*Letter Bomb*]
Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making sure
it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a bomb.
About 75% Aluminum powder with 25% Iron power is best. This is a light
version of Thermite, Since it is in an enclosed space (The envelope, as
described below a ways). Mix the above well. The idea is this: Iron can burn,
at a very high temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what the
Aluminum is for. Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it is
used as a catalyst of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the Aluminum,
which then burns the Iron, at a suitable temperature. Since this is going off
in an enclosed space, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violence
than a normal mix. I advise you play with this for a while, learning your
mixture.
Now for the fun stuff:
Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered. Seperate
the layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture, once you are
satisfied with. Keep this section seperate, but it might be good to top it
off with some Magnesium. The outer layer can be either Magnesium, for a flash
bomb, or possibly a material of your own choice.
Now for the difficult part! The fuse... We can make a fuse from another set of
chemicals: Iodine crystals, and Ammonium Hydroxide, in liquid form. Mix these
together,in about and equal amount, but you might want to use a heavy amount of
iodine if pressed for time. These form a new crystalline structure, about an
inch long. These are highly volatile, and i advise keeping them protected.
They have about the impact power of an M-100 for a teaspoon. I put these in a
protective card-board lining, and put them at the top of the envelope. Rig this
so it puts pressure on it.
[*Match Explosive*]
The word "safety" in safety matches is misleading. The chemical on the heads of
safety matches is a powerful explosive. It is similar to black powder but has a
lower ignition temperature (more sensative to heat) and unlike black powder is
easily detonated by impact. This feature moves it up into the high explosives
class. To test this, lay a paper safety match (on a hard flat surface and hit
the head sharply with a hammer. What do you !know! It goes bang! To collect a
'quantity of this explosive, it is best to use wooden safety matches. Buy
several cartons. They're cheap. Note that these should be safety matches,
(not the strike anywhere kind. Pinch the head near the bottom with a pair of
wire cutters to break it up; then use the edges of the cutters to scrape off
&the loose material. It gets easy with practice. You can do this while watching
TV and collect enough for a bomb without dieing of boredom. Once you have a good
batch of it, you can load it into a pipe instead of black powder. Be careful not
to get any in the threads, and wipe off any that gets on the end of the pipe.
Never try to use this stuff for rocket fuel. A science teacher was killed that
way. Just for fun while I'm on the subject of matches, did you know that you
can strike a safety match on a window pane? Hold a paper match between your
thumb and first finger. With your second (finger, press the head firmly against
a large window. Very quickly, rub the match down the pane about 2 feet while
maintaining the pressure. The friction will generate enough heat to light the
match. Another fun trick is the match rocket. Tightly wrap the top half of a
paper match with foil. Set it in the top of a pop bottle at a 45 degree angle.
Hold a lighted match under the head until it ignites. If you got it right, the
match will zip up and hit the ceiling. I just remembered the match guns I used
to make when I was a kid. These are made from a bicycle spoke. At one end of
the spoke is a piece that screws off. Take it off and screw it on backwards.
You now have a piece of stiff wire with a small hollow tube on one end. Pack the
material from a couple of wooden safety matches into the tube. Force the stem
of a match into the hole. It sould fit very tightly. Hold a lighted match under
the tube until it gets hot enough to ignite the powder. It goes off with a bang.
[*Nitrogen Trichloride*]
Nitrogen trichloride, also known as chloride of azode, is an oily yellow
liquid. It explodes violently when it is heated above 60 degrees celsius, or
when it comes in contact with an open flame or spark. It is fairly simple to
produce.
1) In a beaker, dissolve about 5 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate in water.
Do not put so much ammonium nitrate into the solution that some of it
remains undissolved in the bottom of the beaker.
2) Collect a quantity of chlorine gas in a second beaker by mixing hydrochloric
acid with potassium permanganate in a large flask with a stopper and glass
3) Place the beaker containing the chlorine gas upside down on top of the
beaker containing the ammonium nitrate solution, and tape the beakers
together. Gently heat the bottom beaker. When this is done, oily yellow
droplets will begin to form on the surface of the solution, and sink down
to the bottom. At this time, remove the heat source immediately.
Alternately, the chlorine can be bubbled through the ammonium nitrate
solution, rather than collecting the gas in a beaker, but this requires
timing and a stand to hold the beaker and test tube.
The chlorine gas can also be mixed with anhydrous ammonia gas, by gently
heating a flask filled with clear household ammonia. Place the glass tubes
from the chlorine-generating flask and the tube from the ammonia-generating
flask in another flask that contains water.
4) Collect the yellow droplets with an eyedropper, and use them immediately,
since nitrogen trichloride decomposes in 24 hours.
[*Nitrostarch Explosives*]
Nitrostarch explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful. All
that need be done is treat various starches with a mixture of concentrated nitric
and sulfuric acids. 10 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid is added to 10 ml of
concentrated nitric acid. To this mixture is added 0.5 grams of starch. Cold
water is added, and the apparently unchanged nitrostarch is filtered out.
Nitrostarch explosives are of slightly lower power than T.N.T., but they are
more readily detonated.
[ ] *GELLED FLAME FUELS*
Gelled or paste type fuels are often preferable to raw gasoline
for use in incendiary devices such as fire bottles. This type fuel adheres
more readily to the target and produces greater heat concentration.
Several methods are shown for gelling gasoline using commonly
available materials. The methods are divided into the following categories
based on the major ingredient:
1. Lye Systems
2. Lye-Alcohol Systems
3. Soap-Alcohol Systems
4. Egg White Systems
6. Wax Systems
Lye Systems
Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in
combination with powdered rosin or castor oil to gel gasoline for use as a
flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source
--------------- ---------- -------- -------------
60 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle
2 (flake) or Lye Drain cleaner, Food store or Drug store
1 (powder) making of soap
15 Rosin Manufactoring Paint store, chemical supply
Paint & Varnish house
or
Castor Oil Medicine Food and Drug stores
PROCEDURE
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the|
|flame fuel. NO SMOKING! |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM
CONTAINER.)
2. IF rosin is in cake form, crush into small pieces.
3. Add rosin or castor oil to the gasoline and stir for about five minutes to
mix thoroughly.
4. In a second container (NOT ALUMINUM) add lye to an equal volume of water
slowly with stirring.
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,|
|wash away immediately with large quantities of water. |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mix and stir until mixture thickens (about
one minute).
NOTE: The sample willeventually thicken to a very firm paste. This can be
thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
Lye-Alcohol Systems
Lye (also know as caustic soda or Sodium Hydroxide) can be used in
combination with alcohol and any of several fats to gel gasoline for use as a
flame fuel.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source
--------------- ---------- -------- -------------
60 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle
2 (flake) or Lye Drain cleaner, Food store or Drug store
1 (powder) making of soap
3 Ethyl Alcohol Whiskey Liquor store
Medicine Drug store
NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be
substituted for ethyl alcohol, but their use produces softer gels.
14 Tallow Food Fats rendered by cooking the
Making of soap meat or suet of animals.
NOTE: The following can be substituted for the tallow:
(a) Wool grease (Lanolin) (very good) -- Fat extracted from sheep wool
(b) Castor Oil (good)
(c) Any vegetable oil (corn, cottenseed, peanut, linseed, etc.)
(d) Any fish oil
(e) Butter or oleo margarine
It is necessary when using substitutes (c) to (e) to double the given amount
of fat and of lye for satistfactory bodying.
PROCEDURE
---------
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the|
|flame fuel. NO SMOKING! |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
1. Pour gasoline into jar, bottle or other container. (DO NOT USE AN ALUMINUM
CONTAINER.)
2. Add tallow (or substitute) to the gasoline and stir for about 1/2 minute to
dissolve fat.
3. Add alcohol to the gasoline mixture. mix thoroughly.
4. In a separate container (NOT ALUMINUM) slowly add lye to an equal volume of
water. Mixture should be stirred constantly while adding lye.
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Lye solution can burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled,|
|wash away immediately with large quantities of water. |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
5. Add lye solution to the gasoline mixture and stir occasionally until
thickened (about 1/2 hour)
NOTE: The sample willeventually (1 to 2 days) thicken to a very firm paste.
This can be thinned, if desired, by stirring in additional gasoline.
Soap-Alcohol System
Common household soap can be used in combination with alcohol to gel
gasoline for use as a flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
------------------
Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source
--------------- ---------- -------- -------------
36 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle
1 Ethyl Alcohol Whiskey Liquor store
Medicine Drug store
NOTE: Methyl (wood) alcohol or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol can be substituted
for ethyl alcohol.
20 (powdered) or Laundry soap Washing clothes Stores 28 (flake)
NOTE: Unless the word "soap" actually appears somewhere on the container or
wrapper, a washing compound is probably a detergent. THESE CAN NOT BE USED.
PROCEDURE
---------
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the|
|flame fuel. NO SMOKING! |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
1. If bar soap is used, carve into thin flakes using a knife.
2. Pour Alcohol and gasoline into a jar, bottle or other container and mix
thoroughly.
3. Add soap powder or flakes to gasoline-alcohol mix and stir occasionally
until thickened (about 15 minutes).
Egg System
The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a flame fuel.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
------------------
Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source
--------------- ---------- -------- -------------
85 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle
14 Egg Whites Food Food store, farms
Any one of the following
1 Table Salt Food, industrial Sea Water, Natural brine,
processes Food stores
3 Ground Coffee Food Food store
3 Dried Tea Food Food store
Leaves
3 Cocoa Food Food store
2 Sugar Food Food store
1 Saltpeter Pyrotechnics Drug store
(Niter) Explosives chemical supply store
(Potassium Matches
Nitrate) Medicine
1 Epsom salts Medicine Drug store, food store
industrial
processes
2 Washing soda Washing cleaner Food store
(Sal soda) Medicine Drug store
Photography Photo supply store
1 1/2 Baking soda Baking Food store
Manufactoring: Drug store
Beverages,
Mineral waters,
and Medicine
1 1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug store
Food store
PROCEDURE
---------
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|CAUTION: Make sure that there are no open flames in the area when mixing the|
|flame fuel. NO SMOKING! |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
1. Separate egg white from yolk. This can be done by breaking the egg into a
dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
|NOTE: DO NOT GET THE YELLOW EGG YOLK MIXED INTO THE EGG WHITE. If egg yolk |
|gets into the egg white, discard the egg. |
|----------------------------------------------------------------------------|
2. Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container and add gasoline.
3. Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally until
gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).
NOTE: A thicker flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar in hot
(65 C) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting them cool to room temperature.
(DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING COFFEE).
Wax System
Any of several common waxes can be used to gel gasoline for use as a
lame fuel.
MATERIALS REQUIRED:
Parts by Volume Ingredient How Used Common Source
--------------- ---------- -------- -------------
80 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas station or motor vehicle
20 Wax Leather polish, Food store, drug store,
(Ozocerite, sealing wax, department store
Mineral wax, candles,
fossil wax, waxed paper,
ceresin wax furniture &
beeswax) floor waxes,
lithographing.
PROCEDURE
1. Melt the wax and pour into jar or bottle which has been placed in a hot
water bath.
2. Add gasoline to the bottle.
3. When wax has completely dissolved in the gasoline, allow the water bath to
cool slowly to room temperature.
NOTE: If a gel does not form, add additional wax (up to 40% by volume) and
repeat the above steps. If no gel forms with 40% wax, make a Lye solution by
dissolving a small amount of Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) in an equal amount of
water. Add this solution (1/2% by volume) to the gasoline wax mix and shake
bottle until a gel forms.
[ ] *Popping Combination Locks*
Ever wish you could find out just what someone is hiding in that
locker, or ever have some dumb, ignorant, brain dead, mother fucking, son
of a bitch, cocksucking, bedwetting, jock change your lock on your locker?
Here's one of those well kept secrets from the college dorms. How to open
almost any black dial, master combination lock. Heaven forbid anyone find
out that Master has made a big bo-bo, and thier prize product has an
incredible flaw.
For starters, let it be known that this technique has only been
found to work on master combination locks with black dials. Master locks
with red dials, and a couple other makes that look the same won't work with
this algorithym. But, that's not to say that other types of locks can't be
opened with a set algorithym, they just haven't been figured out yet.
OK! You're in a locker room. No one's there. You think.."hmm,
I sure could use a walkman". You breeze over to any locker (or one you know
there's a walkman in) a slow turn here, a quick turn here, a real slow turn
with a few tugs on the lock, and "chunk" it pops open. Sounds like ecstasy
eh? Well it is.
Step one: Find the first number
The U bolt in the lock can and will move up and down minutely. If it
doesn't even budge, then find a different lock. If you pull down on the
lock, you will notice that the dial can't be moved. This is because there
are about 36 "pits" and "ridges" inside the lock. Pull down hard on the lock.
If you can wiggle the dial back and forth (just a little) then you are in
a pit. If it doesn't move then you are on a ridge. If on a ridge, then let
up on the lock just a tad (slowly) while trying to turn the dial. If you get
it right, the bolt will slide out of the lock a little and you'll sink into a
pit. Now you can wiggle the dial back and forth. When wiggling the dial, the
things that keep you from rotating the dial any further are the ridges
adjacent to pit. All that aside, let's find the first number. I've got my
lock right here.
Rotate the dial clockwise briskly a few turns to reset the 3
"tumblers" inside. Pull down on the lock and try to get it in a pit. Now, all
the ridges are roughly about the same height except for the ridge that marks
the first number of the combination. While pulling down on the lock, grab the
knob on the dial and try to turn it clockwise. Of course it's not going to
turn because you're in a pit, and you're pulling down on the lock. Let up
slowly (very slowly as not to slip) while trying to turn the dial. If you're
doing it right, the bolt will retract into the lock a little as you move
from the pit to the top of the ridge. When you feel you are at the top of
the ridge, start pulling down hard on the lock again. The bolt should come
out of the lock a little and you'll be in the pit to the left of the pit
you were just in. Wow, and that's not even what you're supposed to do. What
you need to do is, when you are at the top of the ridge, try to hold the lock
so instead of falling in a pit, you can turn the dial where you are just
gliding over the ridges. Turn it slowly, and when when you pass over the
ridge you are looking for, you will feel a clank, or you will feel a small
bumb as you hit the side of the ridge. If you have turned the dial a full
turn and have felt nothing then you aren't pulling down on the lock enough.
Try it till you find. It is there somewhere. Now when you feel the bump, take
the number that the little red arrow is pointing to and add five to that
number, and that is the first number of the combination. YEAAAAAAAA!
Step two: Finding the second number
Now that you have the first number (hopefully) turn the dial briskly
a few times to reset the tumblers again, and stop at the first number of
the combination. Because you always have to turn the dial past the first
number before you turn it to the second number, turn the dial counter
clockwise and stop at the first number of the combination again (make sure
it's only one turn!). Find the first pit either on the number you just turned
to or just to the right of it. When you are in the pit, wiggle the dial. The
trick here is to find the pit that let's you wiggle the dial the least. Hence
the 'stiffest' pit. If you think that that pit is too loose. Let up on the
lock a little and let it fall in the pit to the right. (turning the dial
counter-clockwise) If that pit is too loose then go on to the next on. This
is the hardest part and takes a lot of practice. But when you find the right
pit it will fell.....hmmm....tight. It's hard to explain but you should know
it when you feel it. The number that the little arrow is pointing to is
the second number! You're almost there.
Combo Number 3!
Let up on the lock a little and try to get over the ridge to the left
of the second number. When you get over it. Pull down hard. If the lock
doesn't pop open, then go on to the next ridge. IF you got the first two
numbers right, then it should eventually pop open. If you have gone around
the dial a full turn and it still hasn't opened, then start ALL over because
you got one of the first two numbers wrong.
Don't get discouraged, it can be done! With a little practice you
will be able to open most locks in under a minute. Some locks are hard to
'feel' and take a little longer. Ok I admit, there have been some locks I've
tried that are almost impossible. The best place to practice is of course
in a locker room. If you can't get the first one open, go on to the next.
You'll eventually get one. Happy treasure hunting!
[ ] *Pastic Explosive Filler*
A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and
petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated withcommercial #8 or any
military blasting cap.
MaterialRequired How Used
----------------- --------
Potassiumchlorate Medicine
Manufacture of matches
PetroleumJelly Medicine
Lubricant
Stirringutensil
Widebowl
Procedure
---------
1.Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface and pulverize
them with a hard object. Crush into a fine powder until it looks like wheat
flour.
2.Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a
wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands(knead) until a
uniform paste is obtained.
3.Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready for use.
This simple procedure for plastic explosive works. A slight difficulty
lies in initiating the explosion. This explosive requires significant
activation energy.
[ ] *WHERE to get WEOPONS*
INTRODUCTION:
This is a list I compiled of some of the best weopons I've seen, and where
to get them. There are weopons for almost every occastion.
LISTING:
WEOPON DESCRIPTION PRICE LOC
--------------|---------------------------------------------------|-------|---
Sword |Nice! 440 steel w/ C56 hardness! Sharp as hell! |109.00 |CO1
Throwing Stars|Cheapest and best I've seen. Great selection |Varies |CO2
Crossbow |Nice Pistol crossbow... Pretty powerful. | 49.99 |CO3
Triple Threat |Cheap set of 3 throwing knifes, good for learning. | 8.99 |CO3
Silver Arrow |The best throwing knife I've seen or used. | 5.95 |CO2
Wildcat |Nice boot knife, has nice non-slip handle. | 19.99 |CO3
MX-5 Gun |Awesome Stealth weopon! On sale now but will end! | 25.00 |CO3
MX-7 Rifle |Same as above except bigger and more powerful. | 59.99 |CO3
British Knife |A great dagger! The British Commando Knife. | 13.99 |CO3
Stun Gun |50,000 Volt. | 34.99 |CO3
Tiger Knife |Nice knife with finger holes. 8 1/2 in. overall. | 7.99 |CO3
Dermo-Flage |Great Camoflage, like nothing you've seen before...| 9.99 |CO3
Speedchuck |A good pair of Nunchaku. Ball bering swivel. | 8.95 |CO2
Tabi |A pair of stealth shoes w/ split toe & rubber sole | 19.95 |CO2
Tabi Socks |A must, socks with split toe for tabi's | 1.95 |CO2
Octagon Sai |My personal favorite weopon. 21 1/2 inches, Steel.| 22.95 |CO2
Bakahatsugama |Type of Kama with 36" weighted chain hidden inside | 25.95 |CO4
Grappling Hook|Nice folding black, with 33' of black nilon rope | 19.95 |CO2
Tonfa |Good hardwood tonfas. 20" | 9.95 |CO2
Manriki |Black chain with two heavy weighted ends | 8.95 |CO5
Hand Claws |Great for climbing, fighting, and blocking. | 11.95 |CO4
Foot Claws |Same as above except for your feet. | 9.95 |CO4
Koga Outfit |About the best 'Ninja' outfit you can get! | 59.95 |CO6
Lockgun |Needs picks to operate but fast and easy. | 59.95 |CO6
Wafer Pick Set|For use with wafer locks. Comes with 2 base keys | 29.95 |CO6
Lock Pick Set |A good set of all-around picks for every occasion | 24.95 |CO6
Pick Manual |A must for beginners to learn how to open doors | 8.95 |CO6
Throwing Darts|Not like normal darts, these are great conceiled | 1.50 |CO7
Caltrops |No matter which way you drop'em, they always point | 3.95 |CO8
Super-Star |440 Steel w/ C50-55 Rating! Point Ground 4 times! | 5.95 |CO8
--------------|---------------------------------------------------|-------|---
COMPANIES
CO1 - Dolan's Sports - 1-201-938-6656
CO2 - Asian World of Martial Arts - 1-800-345-AWMA
CO3 - The Sportsman's Guide - 1-800-888-3006
CO4 - Musashi Matial Arts - 1-714-557-4272
CO5 - Kam Industries - 1-201-265-4847
CO6 - Kuma Design - 1-213-732-7810
CO7 - Dragon Supply House - 1-804-973-7858
CO8 - I&I Sports Supply - 1-213-732-7212
[ ] *Where to Buy Fireworks*
Included in this file is a list of fireworks suppliers from around
the U.S. I have tried to include all necessary information to receive your
order with almost 100% success. In most of the cases it necessary
to send away for a catalog before you can order (I have included the price
of the catalog [if any]).
Shipment:it is advisable not to order between the months of April-August.
It is during these months that UPS hires postal inspecters who will
confiscate your order. Some companys will not ship to California however,
most only say this to avoid legal problems. Your order usually arives in
about two weeks depending on where the company is located. If you use
check an order will take up to four weeks because of check verfication.
___________________________________________________________________________
<*> represents no shipping to California
Eagle Fireworks Mountain States Novelty
P.O. Box 800 P.O. Box 90007
Clackamas, OR 97015 Casper, WY 82609
1-503-657-8138 #-Unkown
Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00
Ace Fireworks North Central Industries Inc.
P.O. Box 221 DEPT. F P.O. Box 2623
Conneaut, OH 44030 Muncie,IN 47302
#-Unknown 317-284-7122
Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $1.00
Great Lakes Fireworks CO. Sparks Fireworks
P.O. Box 5324 8689 Lake Rd.
Cleveland, OH 44101 Seville,OH 44273
#-Unknown #-Unknown
Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00
B.J. Alan Co. Fireworks Friendly Fireworks
3800-W Southern Blvd. 1377 "K" St. N.W.
Youngstown,Oh 44507 Suite 803
1-800-321-9071 Washington, D.C. 20005
Catalog: $2.00 #-Unknown
Catalog/Sample Pak: $2.00
Tall Paul Inc. Spartan Fireworks
402(HP) Washington P.O. Box 792(AH)
Chillicothe, MO 64601 Tiffon, OH 44883
#-Unknown 1-800-821-2483
Catalog: <Free> 7901
Catalog: $0.50
Neptune Fireworks Co. Inc. Blue Angel Company Inc.*
P.O. Box 398 P.O. Box 26, 12900
1320 Stirling Rd. #B Columbiana-Canfield Rd.
Dania, Florida 33004 Columbiana, OH 44408
1-305-920-6771 1-800-321-9071
1-800-835-5236 Catalog: $2.00
Catalog: $2.00
Fireworks Unlimited* China Importers Wholesalers
8550 Route 224 P.O. Box 347212
Deerfield, OH 44411 Parma, OH 44134
1-800-321-2400 #-Unknown
Catalog: $2.00 Catalog: $1.00
Pyro Sonic Devices Corporation A&W Sales*
P.O. Box 711 P.O. Box 1-G
Grand Haven, Michigan 49417 Muncy, PA 17756
616-842-9226 #-Unknown
Catalog: $1.00 Catalog: $2.00
__________________________________________________________________________
For more information write to..
Pyrotechnics
Box 230 A: RFD #1
Mystic, CT 06355
$3.50 for "Where to buy Pyrotechnics"
__________________________________________________________________________
Make your own Fireworks
Norstarr
P.O. 5585
Pocatello, ID 83202
___________________________________________________________________________
*****************************************************************************
* ]- Semi-Auto To Full Auto Weapons Conversion -[ *
* *
*****************************************************************************
Disclaimer: The author of this file takes no responsibility for illegal use
of the information herein, nor does he take responsibility if he/she who is
using the file fucks up and ends up dead, maimed, injured, or arrested.
Hi gun lovers! Heres a nice little instructional file to help all you would
be machine gun enthusists out there to get your hands on a nice fully automatic
weapon for home defense, hunting, etc.
Ok, down to buisness, heres what you'll need:
1- Semi-auto gun (most preferably a semi-auto version of a submachinegun, the
Mac-10 is ideal and the instructions are based on that model, you may have
to experiment with other guns...)
1- Set of tools that you use to completely strip your weapon (usually just a
few screwdrivers)
1- Hacksaw
1- Electric grinder or hand metal files (OPTIONAL)
1- Power Drill
1- Gun bluing kit (OPTIONAL)
1- Diagram (bluprint) of the gun internal workings (optional but helps alot for
you dudes who dont know a disconnector from a trigger sear)
Ok, now to the fun shit. Strip the weapon apart and get the lower receiver
(the piece with the trigger and shit attached). Method 1 to make the gun
full-auto is modifying the trip. First, identify which part is the trip. If
your looking at the top of the gun, with the rear of the gun pointed toward
you, the trip is the piece sticking up from around the first cross bar. If
its taken out its shaped like this:
*
##### %%%%
############ %%%%%%
################ #%%%%%
############## ### ###%%% *
############## #########
############### #########
################ ###########
###### ##################
#### ##################
### ################# #
## #############
#####
(sORRY FOR THE CRUDENESS OF THE DIAGRAM, THERE AINT A HELL OF ALOT YOU CAN
DO
WITH ascii GRAPHICS) nOW YOU HAVE TO CUT OR GRIND AWAY ABOUT HALF THE
UPPER
CONTACT LOBE OF THE TRIP. tHE UPPER CONTACT LOBE IS THE THINNER BIT OF IT
STICKING UP THAT CONTACTS THE UPPER RECEIVER (THE PART DEPICTED BY THE %
SYMBOL
ON MY SHITTY DIAGRAM). cUT AT AN ANGLE PARALLEL TO THE LOWER EDGE OF THE
LOBE
(CONNECT THE DOTS FROM THE ASTERIXES i PUT ON THE PICTURE AND CUT ON THE
DOTTED
LINE...) rEASSEMBLE AND viola!!! iT'S HOSIN' TIME!! wARNING: YOUR GUN IS NOW
FULLY AUTOMATIC (FULL AUTO only, NO SEMI AUTO AT ALL) AND VIOLATES A
SHITLOAD
OF VARIOS STATE AND FEDERAL LAWS... IF YOU GET CAUGHT YOUR SHIT OUTTA LUCK
BECAUSE THE UPPER CONTACT LOBE JUST DOESNT DEMATERIALIZE... WHAT IF YOUR
OUT THERE SAYING "tHERES THIS PIECE OF METAL WELDED ON THE LOWER RECEIVER
THINGIE STOPPING ME FROM TAKING THE PARTS OUT!!!" wELL MY FREINDS, THAT IS
WHATS CALLED THE SEMI-AUTOMATIC CARRIAGE. iTS PUT THERE BY OUR BUDDIES
AT THE
FIREARM AND TOBBACO OFFICE IN d.c. tHIS NUISANCE IS EASILY REMOVED BY
DRILLING
OUT THE WELDS ON THE LOWER RECEIVER AND PULLING IT OUT (dONT DRILL ALL
THE WAY
THRU THE LOWER RECEIVER THOUGH, LOTS OF LITTLE HOLES THROUGH THE GUN LOOK
LIKE
SHIT AND MAY AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE) oK, METHOD 2 OF THE DO-IT-YOURSELF
RAMBOMATIC ADJUSTABLE KILLING DEVICES (tm): dISCONNECTOR MODIFICATION.
tHE
DISCONNECTOR IS THE PIECE JUST IN FRONT OF THE TRIP WITH THE LITTLE BAR
STICKING
OUT THAT THE TRIP SLAMS AGAINST.
lOOKS LIKE THIS: (OH NO, NOT ANOTHER ascii DIAGRAM..
fRONT vIEW + sIDE vIEW
+
## * + #####
##%%%v%%%%%%%%%%% + ##########
##%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% + ###########
## * + ########
## + ####
## + ######
## + #########
## + ############
## + ######### ##
## + ######## #
## + ######### ##
## + #### #### ##
## + #### ######
oK, HERES WHAT YA DO: cUT THE BAR OFF FAR ENOUGH SO THAT THE TRIP CAN'T
MAKE
CONTACT WITH IT. (USUALLY ABOUT 1/3 OF THE LENGTH FROM THE FREE EDGE). aS
BEFORE CUT FROM THE ASTERIXES... aLSO, MAKE A SMALL NOTCH ABOUT MID-
CENTER
OF WHATS LEFT OF THE BAR FOR THE TRIGGER SPRING (THAT LITTLE ANNOYING
WIRE
THATS PROBLY BEEN GETTING IN YOUR WAY) TO REST IN SO IT DOESN'T SLIDE OFF
THE
SHORTENED DISCONNECTOR BAR. rEASSEMBLE AND YOU ARE NOW THE PROUD OWNER
OF A
9MM SWISS CHEESE MAKER. iF YOUR CAUGHT BY THE FEDS YOU MAY BE ABLE TO
CONVINCE THEM THE GUN "BROKE" BUT DON'T HOLD YOUR BREATH.
tips and hints:
1) aLWAYS FIND A PLACE TO SAFELY TEST YOUR GUN TO MAKE SURE THE
MODIFICATIONS
WORKED. pREFERABLY SOMEWHERE FAR FAR AWAY FROM SPECTATORS. iF IT didn't
WORK THEN MAYBE YOU DIDN'T FILE OFF ENOUGH OF THE TRIP OR THE
DISCONNECTOR
BAR.. EXPERIMENT!
2) fOR LONGER WEAPON LIFE, FINISH THE EXPOSED EDGES LEFT BY CUTTING,
GRINDING,
DRILLING ETC. WITH GUN BLUING. tHIS PREVENTS RUSTING AND CORROSION.
3) iF YOU PLAN ON BULLSHITTING A COP THAT CATCHES YOU (i DON'T ENVY YOU)
don't
FINISH THE WEAPON WITH BLUING. tHE GUN MAY HAVE BROKE, BUT UZIS DON'T
COAT
THEMSELVES WITH PROTECTIVE FINISH....
4) gETTING (OR FINDING OUT WHERE YOU CAN GET) SPARE PIECES FOR THE GUN IN
CASE YOU SCREW UP AND/OR WANT TO MAKE YOUR GUN LEGAL AGAIN SOMETIMES
IS
A VERY GOOD IDEA.
5) hAVE FUN!!!
[ ] * How to make a "Shotgun grenade" *
The stuff that you need is this...
1. Used Shotgun shell...most anygauge....but 12 gauge is better....
2. Some gunpowder...
3. A fuse....Water proof fuses are better...
4. Some Elemers glue (Note: Use the stuff that dries clear...)
Ok after you have gotten all of that stuff you are ready to make one!
First step...Push the primer out with a 2 point screwdriver...(Phil. Head)
then throw the primer away and put the fuse through the hole...put some glue in
the hole to hold the fuse...let glue dry.....
Next step...pour gunpowder into the empty shell....
next step...pour glue into the rest of the last part of the shell...let glue
dry....then....**BOOM** Enjoy!
Note: These bombs are very dangerous and could easily kill you...just watch
yourself..also to make them more deadly...get some tape and some nails and take
the nails to the sides of the shell...and run like hell! if this thing goes
off....one of those nails could easily go through you.....Enjoy!
[ ] *How to make an "Apple bomb"*
Well this bomb is *Extreamly* dangerous we suggest you use a long fuse...
You will have fun with this one...... this one could easily destroy a car...
so watch out....
Supplies....
1. Applesause jar...
2. Gun powder....
3. REALLY long fuse...
4. Nails for Anti-personel use....
Get a Apple sause jar and fill it with gun powder..... Put a hole in the top of
the cap.....Put the fuse through the cap and put a drop of glue so to make it
stay...if you want to waste a ton of shit by schrapnel then tape nalis to the
side of the GLASS jar....If explosion dont get them the glass will...If the
glass dont get them the NAILS will.........I really suggest you use a long
fuse..(Water proof) and run like hell...becuase I know what these babys can do!
Drop one in a pond and run and after it explodes go back and collect the dead
fish...Well enjoy this one!
[ ] *CARBIDE BOMB*
OBTAIN SOME CALCIUM CARBIDE. THIS IS THE STUFF THAT IS USED IN CARBIDE
LAMPS
AND CAN BE FOUND AT NEARLY ANY HARDWARE STORE. TAKE A FEW PIECES OF THIS
STUFF
(IT LOOKS LIKE GRAVEL) AND PUT IT IN A GLASS JAR WITH SOME WATER. PUT A LID
ON TIGHTLY. THE CARBIDE WILL REACT WITH THE WATER TO PRODUCE ACEDYLENE
CARBONATE WHICH IS SIMILAR TO THE GAS USED IN CUTTING TORCHES. EVENTUALLY
THE
GLASS WITH EXPLODE FROM INTERNAL PRESSURE. IF YOU LEAVE A BURNING RAG
NEARBY,
YOU WILL GET A NICE FIREBALL!
[ ] *AUTO EXHAUST FLAME THROWER*
FOR THIS ONE, ALL YOU NEED IS A CAR, A SPARK PLUG, SOME IGNITION WIRE AND A
SWITCH. INSTALL THE SPARK PLUG INTO THE LAST FOUR OR FIVE INCHES OF THE
TAILPIPE BY DRILLING A HOLE THAT THE PLUG CAN SCREW INTO EASILY. I
RECCOMEND
INSTALLING THE SWITCH IN THE GLOVE-COMPARTMENT, WAY OUT OF REACH, BUT IT
IS
NOT NECCESARY. ATTACH THE WIRE TO ONE SIDE OF THE SWITCH AND TO THE SPARK
PLUG.
THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SWITCH IS ATTACHED TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THE
BATTERY.
WITH THE CAR RUNNING, SIMPLY HIT THE SWITCH AND WATCH THE FLAMES FLY!!!
NOTE:
BE CAREFUL THAT NO ONE IS BEHIND YOU. I HAVE SEEN SOME OF THESE FLAMES GO
20
FEET!!!
[ ] * Gerbil Feed Bomb*
The infamous... GERBIL FEED BOMB
Striking fear into the hearts of model citizens everywhere...
Grudge against society? Seeking mass destruction & bloodshed? Look no
further... Follow these simple directions for nihilism absolute...
1. Get some Gerbil Feed, or some other type of small rodent food, available at
most any pet store.
2. Mash up the food pellets into a fine powder (about the consistancy of
beach sand). The best way to do this is to put the pellets in a bag, and
then beat the hell out of those bitches (pretend like they're Nancy Reagan
for more fun!) with a hammer. If you live near a major highway, you can
just scatter them around, and then come by later with a shovel.
3. Put this powder into a jar (Jiff Peanut Butter jars work best, but Peter
Pan will do just fine). Get some model glue, the kind in tubes, and squirt
out a bunch of it into your hand. Spread it out evenly over all your
fingers, and then stick your hands into the jar. Move your hands around
a lot in the jar so that the glue is well mixed with the powder.
Go into a spasm, this should shake all the glue off your hands.
4. Fill the rest of the jar up with gasoline(available at most any gas station.)
5. Put a long fuse into it. If you're brave (and a bit stupid), you can just
drop a match into it.
6. Light the fuse if you put one in. If you dropped a match into it, then
go to the nearest phone, dial "911" and tell the nice people that you have
a large number of glass shards embedded in your lower body. An ambulance
should be there soon.
7. If you do not have glass shards in your body yet, just run VERY, VERY
fast, scream "incoming!" at the top of your lungs, and then "hit the dirt!"
This should attract all the neighbor's attention, so they too will get to
witness this spectacular event.
8. There! You've done it! When the police car comes to your house, tell
the nice police officers that a K.G.B. agent leaped out of a tree, and
threw a hand grenade at you. Of course they will be kind and understanding
being their job to "protect and serve." The police are your friends!
9. Repeat for everything you want to slice, dice, chop, or mutilate.
Or just plain destroy, it doesn't really matter.
Be sure to have a spare change of clothes handy...
[ ] PYRODEX
Pyrodex is a synthetic powder that is used like black powder. It comes
in the same grades, but it is more expensive per pound. However, a one pound
container of pyrodex contains more material by volume than a pound of black
powder. It is much easier to crush to a very fine powder than black powder, and
it is considerably safer and more reliable. This is because it will
not be set off by static electricity, as black can be, and it is less inclined
to absorb moisture. It costs about $10.00 per pound. It can be crushed in the
same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved in boiling water and dried.
2.04 RIFLE/SHOTGUN POWDER
Rifle powder and shotgun powder are really the same from a practicle
standpoint. They are both nitrocellulose based propellants. They will be
referred to as gunpowder in all future references. Gunpowder is made by the
action of concentrated nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton. This material is
then dissolved by solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size. When
dealing with gunpowder, the grain size is not nearly as important as that of
black powder. Both large and small grained gunpowder burn fairly slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is confined, gunpowder
burns both hotter and with more gaseous expansion, producing more pressure.
Therefore, the grinding process that is often necessary for other propellants
is not necessary for gunpowder. Gunpowder costs about $9.00 per pound. Any
idiot can buy it, since there are no restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the
U.S.
2.05 FLASH POWDER
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various
oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated
with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is
sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very
finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The
fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators.
It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot
white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00.
It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores.
[ ] AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate is a high explosive material that is often used as
a commercial "safety explosive" It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match. It will only light if the glowing, red-hot part of a match is
touching it. It is also difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation
will be explained later) it requires a large shockwave to cause it to go high
explosive. Commercially, it is sometimes mixed with a small amount of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. Ammonium nitrate is used in the
"Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in most drug stores. The "Cold Paks"
consist of a bag of water, surrounded by a second plastic bag containing the
ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium nitrate, simply cut off the top of the
outside bag, remove the plastic bag of water, and save the ammonium nitrate in
a well sealed, airtight container, since it is rather hydroscopic, i.e. it
tends to absorb water from the air. It is also the main ingredient in many
fertilizers.
Ammonium nitrate is a very powerful but insensitive high-order
explosive. It could be made very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large
flask in an ice bath. Then, by simply pouring household ammonia into the flask
and running away, ammonium nitrate would be formed. After the materials have
stopped reacting, one would simply have to leave the solution in a warm place
until all of the water and any unneutralized ammonia or acid have evaporated.
There would be a fine powder formed, which would be ammonium nitrate. It must
be kept in an airtight container, because of its tendency to pick up water from
the air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to be heated VERY
gently to drive off the remaining water.
AMMONIUM NITRATE
Ammonium nitrate could be made by a terrorist or it could be stolen from a
construction site, since it is usually used in blasting, because it is very stable and
insensitive
to shock and heat. A terrorist could also buy several Instant Cold-Paks from a
drug store or medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a terrorist's point of view, would be detonating it. A rather
powerful priming charge must be used, and usually with a booster charge. The
diagram below will explain.
_________________________________________
| | |
________| | |
| | T.N.T.| ammonium nitrate |
|primer |booster| |
|_______| | |
| | |
|_______|_______________________________|
The primer explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
2.1 ACQUIRING CHEMICALS
The first section deals with getting chemicals legally. This section
deals with "procuring" them. The best place to steal chemicals is a college.
Many state schools have all of their chemicals out on the shelves in the
labs, and more in their chemical stockrooms. Evening is the best time to enter
lab buildings, as there are the least number of people in the buildings, and
most of the labs will still be unlocked. One simply takes a bookbag, wears
a dress shirt and jeans, and tries to resemble a college freshman. If anyone
asks what such a person is doing, the thief can simply say that he is looking
for the polymer chemistry lab, or some other chemistry-related department
other than the one they are in. One can usually find out where the various
labs and departments in a building are by calling the university. There
are, of course other techniques for getting into labs after hours, such as
placing a piece of cardboard in the latch of an unused door, such as a back
exit. Then, all one needs to do is come back at a later hour. Also, before
this is done, terrorists check for security systems. If one just walks into a
lab, even if there is someone there, and walks out the back exit, and slip the
cardboard in the latch before the door closes, the person in the lab will never
know what happened. It is also a good idea to observe the building that one
plans to rob at the time that one plans to rob it several days before the
actual theft is done. This is advisable since the would-be thief should know
when and if the campus security makes patrols through buildings. Of course, if
none of these methods are successful, there is always section 2.11, but as a
rule, college campus security is pretty poor, and nobody suspects another
person in the building of doing anything wrong, even if they are there at an
odd hour.
2.11 TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock to enter a lab, the world's
most effective lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are
unfortunately, problems with noise and excess structural damage with these
methods. The next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks.
These, unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The rule
here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are several
devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the wall. Dental
tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from cans, thin pocket-
knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The way that all these
tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or otherwise move the latch
out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door open. This is done by sliding
whatever tool that you are using behind the latch, and pulling the latch out
from the wall. To make an aluminum-can lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum
can and carefully cut off the can top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged
ends. Then, cut the open-ended cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a
single long rectangle. This should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the
strips in 1/4 inch increments (1). One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4
inch wide strip of aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape,
or a U-shape. This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:
(1)
_________________________________________________________ v
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| | 1 inch
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
1/4 |_______________________________________________________| |
^
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of
aluminum. This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped
device that looks like this:
__________________________________________
/ ________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between
the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made
properly.
MASTER COMBINATION LOCKS
Almost all combination locks, including safe locks, operate on
the same basic principle. The dial is turned to a preselected
series of numbers that line up the unlocking mechanism and allow the
lock to open. People always lose the combinations for these locks.
If you have a thorough knowledge of the construction of this
type of lock you can usually open them quite easily and determine
the combination. There are four methods commonly used to open
combination locks, I will briefly discuss all four.
The first method is called manipulation, which is a highly
skilled field of locksmithng that ver few are able to master. Safe
and combination lock manipulation is a specialized field of the
locksmith trade. The type of locks that you will usually run into
are the cheap inexpensive ones which aren't worth the time to
manipulate. Generally manipulation is not even a last resort;
generally manipulation is always ignored.
A common method of opening is to drill a small hole in the case
to trip the locking mechanism, or read the combination. Some locks
can be opened by rapping the case with a soft face hammer or wooden
mallet. Others can be opened by codes, but only if you have a code
book.
I highly suggest buying a master padlock and peeling the back
cover off of it to reveal the internal mechanisms. You should be
able to identify: the shackle, locking pawl, locking dog, and three
tumbler gates. Each manufacturer will have some variation of the
actual construction, however, they all operate in almost the same
manner.
DRILLING
Drill a hole approximately 1/16" in diameter. To find out
approximately where to drill, draw a line for the 'M' in Master on
the back of the lock. A straight line for the edge, through the
'M', and just missing the '.' in WIS on the other side. Now once
you have the holw drilled, take a pen light, and look in and read
the tumblers. Through the hole you should be able to see the
locking pawl and the tumbler gates. Line the tumbler gates up with
the locking pawl. Do this by first clearing the lock by turning the
dial knob at least two turns to the right, or clockwise as you face
the front side. Holding the lock in your left hand, continue
turning the dial clockwise slowly, and look through the hole you
drilled in the back. Now stop turning the dial when the gate of the
first tumbler lines up with the pawl. Now slowly turn the dial in
the opposite direction, notice the #2 or middle tumbler, does not
move at first. After one revolution, it will begin to turn.
Continue turning slowly until the gate of the #2 tumbler lines up
perfectly with the gate of the first tumbler. Next, reverse the
dial rotation and slowly turn it clockwise until the gate of the #3
tumbler lines up with the gates of the #1 and #2 tumblers. Now pull
out on the shackle and the lock will open if you line up the three
tumblers properly.
RAPPING
Sometimes you can open these locks by rapping them open by
hitting them with a soft face hammer or wooden mallet. A sudden
blow on the opposite side of the locking dog will sometimes depress
the locking spring and release the dog, allowing the shackle to come
out.
DRILLING METHOD #2 (MASTER)
On the back right hand side of the lock, draw a 3/8" line down
from where the shackle meets the lock case(inside of loop, not
outside!), then draw and 3/8" line at a 90 degree angle to that one.
Now, if you have drawn your lines right, you should be able to
drill right next to your pin-point created by the lines. NOTE:
This will destroy the lock, but it is a fail safe method of opening
and opening it fast.
CLOSING
I have seen many small files on the Master combination lock,
but all of them usually talked about the manipulation method.
Hopefully some of you out there will read this file and realize that
these methods really work. This file may be destributed freely, but
please don't re-write it and take credit for it when you don't have
any solid facts to back up the fact that you wrote it.
--------------------------
Automotive Locking Systems
--------------------------
Automotive locks vary considerably in the types of locking mechanisms and lock
arrangements. There are many other methods of gaining access to an automobile
which are quite often quicker and easier than attempting to pick the lock.
Probably the most common point of entry is the wing or vent window, or, in the
newer models, the rubber molding. Anyone intending to engage in automobile lock
work (or desiring to save approximately fifty dollars or more in service calls)
will need some special tools. Both the curve and length of tools are important
to their overall effectiveness.
The tool being used should first be lubricated with a glycerine-based hand
lotion or hand cleaner before inserting it through the weatherstripping. This
not only makes the tools work easier, but helps prevent scarring, tearing or any
other damage to the weatherstripping.
To open most front wing windows, take the lever latch tool and insert it
through the weatherstripping between the wing window and the window trim.
Manipulate the tool by controlling the depth of penetration along the curve. At
the same time use a rocking action to move the window lock into the unlocked
position.
One other type of wing window lock has a lever latch equipped with a plunger
at the pivot of the latch. The plunger deadlocks the latch against rotation,
unless the plunger is first pushed in and held until the initial stage of
rotation has been accomplished. This requires that another tool be inserted
through the weatherstripping and the door window to depress the plunger and hold
it in that position while the other tool is used to rotate the latch. Normally,
the tool used for depressing the deadlocking plunger has a slight curve at the
tip. The tool's only purpose is to depress the plunger.
Another means of access, when the door window is fully raised and the door is
locked, consists of inserting a stiff bent wire, and using it directly on the
locking mechanism. Tripping of the lock mechanism may often be done by pulling
up on the wire once the tip of the wire has been positioned under the lock
linkage. At other times, the bent tip of the wire must be pulled up against the
linkage and then rotated to trip the locking mechanism. With practice one gets
the feel of what is required to open the door.
Automobiles using a rocker type of locking mechanism may be tripped by using a
thin piece of flat spring steel stock. First, coat the tool with a
glycerine-based hand lotion or hand cleaner to protect the trim and rubber
molding. Insert the tool next to the glass or between the
weatherstripping/molding and the metal of the door. Feel for the lock linkage
with the notched end of the tool, then move the linkage up and down until the
lock moves into the unlocked position.
Another avenue of access to most automobiles is through the firewall, reaching
the door locks with a long stiff wire to push the lock button into the unlocked
position.
Since automobile door locks on most newer models are normally held in place by
a retainer clip, as a last resort the lock can be punched out. First, insert a
bent piece of wire into the keyway and bind it to prevent the lock mechanism
from falling into the door frame. Once out, the automobile can be opened by
pushing up on the linkage attached to the lock mechanism.
PIPE OR "ZIP" GUNS
------------------
Commonly known as "zip" guns, guns made from pipe have
been used for years by juvenile punks. Today's Militants
make them just for the hell of it or to shoot once in an
assassination or riot and throw away if there is any danger
of apprehension.
They can be used many times but with some, a length of
dowel is needed to force out the spent shell.
There are many variations but the illustration shows the
basic design.
First, a wooden stock is made and a groove is cut for
the barrel to rest in. The barrel is then taped securely to
the stock with a good, strong tape.
The trigger is made from galvanized tin. A slot is
punched in the trigger flap to hold a roofing, which is
wired or soldered onto the flap. The trigger is bent and
nailed to the stock on both sides.
The pipe is a short length of one-quarter inch steel gas
or water pipe with a bore that fits in a cartridge, yet
keeps the cartridge rim from passing through the pipe.
The cartridge is put in the pipe and the cap, with a
hole bored through it, is screwed on. Then the trigger is
slowly released to let the nail pass through the hole and
rest on the primer.
To fire, the trigger is pulled back with the left hand
and held back with the thumb of the right hand. The gun is
then aimed and the thumb releases the trigger and the thing
actually fires.
Pipes of different lengths and diameters are found in
any hardware store. All caliber bullets, from the .22 to
the .45 are used in such guns.
Some zip guns are made from two or three pipes nested
within each other. For instance, a .22 shell will fit
snugly into a length of a car's copper gas line.
Unfortunatey, the copper is too weak to withstand the
pressure of the firing. So the length of gas line is spread
with glue and pushed into a wider length of pipe. This is
spread with glue and pushed into a length of steel pipe with
threads and a cap.
Using this method, you can accomodate any cartridge,
even a rifle shell. The first size of pipe for a rifle
shell accomodates the bullet. The second accomodates its
wider powder chamber.
A 12-gauge shotgun can be made from a 3/4 inch steel
pipe. If you want to comply with the gun laws, the barrel
should be at least eighteen inches long.
Its firing mechanism is the same as that for the pistol.
It naturally has a longer stock and its handle is lengthened
into a rifle butt. Also, a small nail is driven half way
into each side of the stock about four inches in the front of
the trigger. The rubber band is put over one nail and
brought around the trigger and snagged over the other nail.
In case you actually make a zip gun, you should test it
before firing it by hand. This is done by first tying the
gun to a tree or post, pointed to where it will do no
damage. Then a string is tied to the trigger and you go off
several yards. The string is then pulled back and let go.
If the barrel does not blow up, the gun is safe to fire by
hand.
You should not attempt to register such a gun.
Pipe Cap
/
/ Bullet Tape Pipe
/ / / \ /
v / / \ /
!----! / v v v
Nail--\ / /-!---v-----!---!-!---!---------
v --- - - - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !
//----> ![][]\ ! ! ! ! !
^ ! !--\ ![][]/ ! ! ! ! !
Wire/ ! ! \-!- - - - -!- -!-!- -!- - - - !
Trigger---> ! ! !---! ! ! ! ! ::::
/! ! /--------!---!-!---!--::::--!
/ :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: <-\
! !-! / \-- Rubber
/ / band
! !
! /
! !
! !
! !
!------!
Z I P G U N
/ <---Nail
!-!/
/------------------\ /-----!o!-----\
! O O O ! ! ------------- !
\--------! !-------/ !! !!
!-! !! !!
!! !!
!! !!
Trigger before bending /--> !! !! <--\
Place !! !! Nail
nail hole
here
notes: * ethyl alcohol is mixed with methyl alcohol when it is used as a
solvent. Methyl alcohol is very poisonous. Solvent alcohol must be
at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to make mercury fulminate.
Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from forming.
+ Ammonia, when bought in stores comes in a variety of forms. The
pine and cloudy ammonias should not be bought; only the clear
ammonia should be used to make ammonium triiodide crystals.
@ Mercury thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They
may be hard to find in most stores. Mercury is also used in mercury
switches, which are available at electronics stores. Mercury is a
hazardous substance, and should be kept in the thermometer or
mercury switch until used. It gives off mercury vapors which will
cause brain damage if inhaled. For this reason, it is a good idea
not to spill mercury, and to always use it outdoors. Also, do not
get it in an open cut; rubber gloves will help prevent this.
^ Nitric acid is very difficult to find nowadays. It is usually
stolen by bomb makers, or made by the process described in a later
section. A desired concentration for making explosives about 70%.
& The iodine sold in drug stores is usually not the pure crystaline
form that is desired for producing ammonium triiodide crystals.
To obtain the pure form, it must usually be acquired by a doctor's
prescription, but this can be expensive. Once again, theft is the
means that terrorists result to.
2.31 NITRIC ACID
There are several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. One method by which it could be made will be presented.
Materials: Equipment:
sodium nitrate or adjustable heat source
potassium nitrate
retort
distilled water
ice bath
concentrated
sulfuric acid stirring rod
collecting flask with stopper
1) Pour 32 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into the retort.
2) Carefully weigh out 58 grams of sodium nitrate, or 68 grams of potassium
nitrate. and add this to the acid slowly. If it all does not dissolve,
carefully stir the solution with a glass rod until it does.
3) Place the open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until liquid
begins to come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms is nitric
acid. Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is almost dry,
or until no more nitric acid is forming. CAUTION: If the acid is headed too
strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as soon as it is formed. This
can result in the production of highly flammable and toxic gasses that may
explode. It is a good idea to set the above apparatus up, and then get
away from it.
Potassium nitrate could also be obtained from store-bought black powder,
simply by dissolving black powder in boiling water and filtering out
the sulfur and charcoal. To obtain 68 g of potassium nitrate, it would be
necessary to dissolve about 90 g of black powder in about one litre of
boiling water. Filter the dissolved solution through filter paper in a funnel
into a jar until the liquid that pours through is clear. The charcoal and
sulfur in black powder are insoluble in water, and so when the solution of
water is allowed to evaporate, potassium nitrate will be left in the jar.
3.01 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock,
undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that
is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down
into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece
of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are
displaced by the expanding gasses. This expansion occurs at a speed greater
than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the
mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order
explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which
may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high
order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes
through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart
the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately
equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high
explosive, the fuel and oxodizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks
apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses.
T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation.
when heated, the fuel(s) and oxodizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and
gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under
pressure as they do in the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as gunpowder,
which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they
are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions.
Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order
explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as
mercury filminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are
usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low
explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they
are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined,
they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave.
Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose,
a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently
used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by
the detonation of its primer.
3.1 IMPACT EXPLOSIVES
Impact explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives; Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest care, and even
the stupidest anarchist never stores them near any high or low explosives.
3.11 AMMONIUM TRIIODIDE CRYSTALS
Ammonium triiodide crystals are foul-smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if they
are made with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are said to detonate when a fly lands on them, or when an ant walks
across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough impurities, such as soaps
and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will detonate when thrown,crushed, or
heated. Upon detonation, a loud report is heard, and a cloud of purple iodine
gas appears about the detonation site. Whatever the unfortunate surface that
the crystal was detonated upon will usually be ruined, as some of the iodine
in the crystal is thrown about in a solid form, and iodine is corrosive. It
leaves nasty, ugly, permanent brownish-purple stains on whatever it contacts.
Iodine gas is also bad news, since it can damage lungs, and it settles to the
ground and stains things there also. Touching iodine leaves brown stains on
the skin that last for about a week, unless they are immediately and vigorously
washed off. While such a compound would have little use to a serious terrorist,
a vandal could utilize them in damaging property. Or, a terrorist could throw
several of them into a crowd as a distraction, an action which would possibly
injure a few people, but frighten almost anyone, since a small crystal that
not be seen when thrown produces a rather loud explosion. Ammonium triiodide
crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials Equipment
iodine crystals funnel and filter paper
paper towels
clear ammonia
(ammonium hydroxide, two throw-away glass jars
for the suicidal)
1) Place about two teaspoons of iodine into one of the glass jars. The jars
must both be throw away because they will never be clean again.
2) Add enough ammonia to completely cover the iodine.
3) Place the funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in the funnel.
The technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in every basic
chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that a semi-circle
is formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with one curved
side. Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place the cone
into the funnel.
4) After allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour the
solution into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the first jar
to wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it drains.
6) Collect all the purplish crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them on the paper towels to dry for about an hour. Make sure that
they are not too close to any lights or other sources of heat, as they could
well detonate. While they are still wet, divide the wet material into about
eight chunks.
7) After they dry, gently place the crystals onto a one square inch piece of
duct tape. Cover it with a similar piece, and gently press the duct tape
together around the crystal, making sure not to press the crystal itself.
Finally, cut away most of the excess duct tape with a pair of scissors, and
store the crystals in a cool dry safe place. They have a shelf life of
about a week, and they should be stored in individual containers that can be
thrown away, since they have a tendency to slowly decompose, a process which
gives off iodine vapors, which will stain whatever they settle on. One
possible way to increase their shelf life is to store them in airtight
containers. To use them, simply throw them against any surface or place them
where they will be stepped on or crushed.
3.14 PICRATES
Although the procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since they
are extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact. By mixing picric acid with
metal hydroxides, such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, and evaporating the
water, metal picrates can be formed. Simply obtain picric acid, or produce it,
and mix it with a solution of (preferably) potassium hydroxide, of a mid range
molarity. (about 6-9 M) This material, potassium picrate, is impact-sensitive,
and can be used as an initiator for any type of high explosive.
3.2 LOW-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
There are many low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun
stores and used in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise
wise store owner would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such an individual would then be forced to resort to making
his own low-order explosives.
3.21 BLACK POWDER
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make,
but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine
burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by
static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be
made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could
manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
<20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD> <20><><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD><EFBFBD>
potassium clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g) and clay grinder
or or
sodium wooden salad bowl
nitrate (75 g) and wooden spoon
sulfur (10 g) plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g) 300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or
sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a
separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and
add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium
nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no
more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight
is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it
is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container.
Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black
powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static
electricity.
3.23 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can
be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective
and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working
fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each
compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be
given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
oxodizer, % by weight fuel, % by weight speed # notes
=============================================================================
===
potassium chlorate 67% sulfur 33% 5 friction/impact
sensitive; unstable
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 50% sugar 35% 5 fairly slow burning;
charcoal 15% unstable
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 extremely
magnesium or unstable!
aluminum dust 25%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 67% magnesium or 8 unstable
aluminum dust 33%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
sodium nitrate 65% magnesium dust 30% ? unpredictable
sulfur 5% burn rate
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium permanganate 60% glycerine 40% 4 delay before
ignition depends
WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!! upon grain size
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium permanganate 67% sulfur 33% 5 unstable
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium permangenate 60% sulfur 20% 5 unstable
magnesium or
aluminum dust 20%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium permanganate 50% sugar 50% 3 ?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium nitrate 75% charcoal 15% 7 this is
sulfur 10% black powder!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium nitrate 60% powdered iron 1 burns very hot
or magnesium 40%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 75% phosphorus 8 used to make strike-
sesquisulfide 25% anywhere matches
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% 6 solid fuel for
and small amount of space shuttle
iron oxide
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium perchlorate 67% magnesium or 10 flash powder
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 33%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium perchlorate 60% magnesium or 8 alternate
(sodium perchlorate) aluminum dust 20% flash powder
sulfur 20%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
barium nitrate 30% aluminum dust 30% 9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30% flash powder
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
barium peroxide 90% magnesium dust 5% 10 alternate
aluminum dust 5% flash powder
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium perchlorate 50% sulfur 25% 8 slightly
magnesium or unstable
aluminum dust 25%
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 67% red phosphorus 27% 7 very unstable
calcium carbonate 3% sulfur 3% impact sensitive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% 7 unstable;
aluminum or ignites if
magnesium dust 25% it gets wet!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
potassium chlorate 75% charcoal dust 15% 6 unstable
sulfur 10%
=============================================================================
===
NOTE: Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium
perchlorate become moisture-absorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns
AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of
burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures
that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s),
different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity
of the mixture.
3.24 PERCHLORATES
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid
will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or
sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can
be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium
perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated
with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react
explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium
hydroxide are ideal.
3.3 HIGH-ORDER EXPLOSIVES
High order explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the high
explosive. Most high explosives detonate because their molecular structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more NO2 ( nitrogen dioxide )
molecules. T.N.T., or Tri-Nitro-Toluene is an excellent example of such a
material. When a shock wave passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the
nitrogen dioxide bond is broken, and the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in
a matter of microseconds. This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives. Remembering that these procedures are NEVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
several methods of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are listed.
3.33 ANFOS
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO
solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick
up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate
when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight)
ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, or kerosene. The kerosene keeps the ammonium
nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large
shockwave to set it off.
3.35 POTASSIUM CHLORATE
Potassium chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from labs. If potassium chlorate is mixed with a small amount of
vaseline, or other petroleum jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the
material will detonate with slightly more power than black powder. It must,
however, be confined to detonate it in this manner. The procedure for making
such an explosive is outlined below:
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
potassium chlorate zip-lock plastic bag
(9 parts, by volume)
petroleum jelly clay grinding bowl
(vaseline) or
(1 part, by volume) wooden bowl and wooden spoon
1) Grind the potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and slowly,
until the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer that it is
powdered, the faster (better) it will detonate.
2) Place the powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly into the
plastic bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible, i.e.
put the vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the bag, and kneed the materials together until none of the potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If necessary,
add a bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
4) The material must me used within 24 hours, or the mixture will react to
greatly reduce the effectiveness of the explosive. This reaction, however,
is harmless, and releases no heat or dangerous products.
3.38 PICRIC ACID
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military
explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less
sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple
to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric
acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab
manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its
tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as
potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably
use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
--------- ---------
phenol (9.5 g) -500 ml flask
concentrated sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) -adjustable heat source
concentrated nitric acid (38 ml) -1000 ml beaker or other container
suitable for boiling in
distilled water -filter paper and funnel
-glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
-------------------------> Sugar Chlorate Powder <-------------------------
---------------------------> And its Many Uses <---------------------------
Intro
=====
Here I am, back again, aiding the youths of America in having as much
fun as we possibly can before we become old enough to ACTUALLY go to jail.
But until then, make like Bill and Ted, AND PARTY ON DUDES!!! But anyhow,
as for the focus of this phile, it is Sugar Chlorate Powder. It is more of
a blasting powder than an explosive, but many interesting tricks,
explosions, etc. can be gotten from it if ya just use a little brains and
of course, common sense. For those of you who are kinda new to the
explosives biz, I would STRONGLY suggest that you look into reading The
Pyro Series by .....well..by some guy, I couldn't find his name. It is a
very nice beginner phile.. I have included the saftey section of PYRO.TXT
at the beginning of this phile so that my readers don't kill themselves.
Pretty smart huh? You can find the entire PYRO.TXT phile on many boards if
you want it.. If you still can't find it, I know HELLFIRE BBS will have it
so go there. Just tell 'em how you heard of the place, and you should get
in..
On with the good stuff.....
BASIC SAFTEY
============
Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature,
unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction.
A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the
handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are
to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the
following:
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or
at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only
make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes
itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as
one ounce.)
2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the
scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a
bucket of water before weighing the next ingredient.
3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental
spillage or mixing may occur. When finished with a container,
close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean
equipment.
4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
another ingredient.
5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes
should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks.
Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of
an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off
the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the
bottom. Some mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the
ingredients in
a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is
uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away
from
yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
sparks or static.
Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them
on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling
them
across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.
6. Never ram or stamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour
the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a
fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may
be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of
an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are
poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children or
pets, preferably locked away.
8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of
rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of
mixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited
by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout
any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.
9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY
GLASSES. Any careful worker does when handling dangerous
materials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable.
10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay
there. They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.
11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.
12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.
13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.
14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or
pilot lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily
explode dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
hose, etc.)
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals
or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to
handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container
or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many
people have been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal
casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each file, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous
stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals.
Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After
a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to
unload or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.
24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals
don't drop them, or even handle them roughly.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at
one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who
played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special
effects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really
messed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor
who played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to
color his face. The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a
replacement. The point is, these chemicals were being used under the
direction of people a lot more knowlegable of chemicals than you are, and
terrible accidents still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.
Getting The Materials
There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order
the materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over
21 and won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here.
Note that the people who run these supply houses know what sugar chlorate
powder does/is and if you order chemicals from the same place, or in the
same order, it may arouse some suspicion. As well as any other chemical
combination that you use for these little "science porjects".
Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science
for the current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not
all sell every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can
break the orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are
used to selling to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce
lots, while others prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their
wares in 1 or 5 pound jugs. Split up your orders according to the
quantities of each item you think you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine
Crystals will cost three or four dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of
iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a long way. If you had to buy that by
the pound, you might just want to forget the whole thing.
The shipping charges will mostlikely be compunded because of the
ordering from seprate places, but it is either that or get caught. So it's
your choice.
The Good Stuff
==============
When making sugar powder, be sure to get the chemical with the three
molecules of oxygen in it's formula (K Cl O3) (The formula should be on the
side of the container. The correct formula is called potassium chloRATE.
The one NOT to get is potassium chloRIDE, which is basically a dead
chemical. Potassium chlorate is still used by some farmers and can
sometimes even be bought at your local drug store. Most drug supply houses
have it as well. The cost usually varies, but it is a good deal concerning
its availability since it is easy to make and get and most other explosives
are not.
There is only one down side to Sugar Chlorate Powder. The directions
must be followed EXACTLY! They are not that hard to follow however.
Unless you think that directions on how to make a cake from a box are
difficult, you should have very little problem. Otherwise, DON'T TOUCH
THIS STUFF!
Directions
==========
You will get a simple step to follow with a little in depth details to
clear anything coonfusing up.
1. Buy the correct chemical - use potassium chlorate KClO3.
(We already went through that, no need to do it again.)
2. Use common, granulated white sugar as the second ingrediant.
3. DRY measure the two into equal amounts by volume.
When I say DRY, I mean use measuring instruments used in measuring dry
powders. NOT the measuring cup used to measure liquids. By equal
volume I mean use: 1 cup of KClO3 for each cup of sugar.
4. Sift the KClO3 so that all the lumps are removed or crushed.
You can use a screen, like the type in screen doors, to sift the
powder. Sometimes, if the powder has NO lumps, you can skip this
step.
5. Place the sugar in an old pot. Heat it to 255 degrees Fahrenheit,
STIRRING CONSTANTLY.
Use a simple candy thermometer to tell tempertature. You can get one
from a supermarket most likely. Or steal one from your chemistry lab.
MAKE SURE YOU ARE MEASURING IN FAHRENHEIT! Not Centigrade.
6. Take the sugar away from the stove burner when it reaches 255 and
STIR VIGOROUSLY!
The stirring is needed to get out all the hot spots in the sugar.
7. Continue to stir until the melted sugar cools sufficiently to
comfortably put your finger into the mixture.
8. Quickly stir in the KClO3 before the compound cools down and sets up,
completely mixing in the KClO3.
9. Dump the solidifying compoundon a pieceof Saran wrapand flatten out to
not more that one-half-inch thick.
10. Allow the batch to sure overnight (12 hours) in a cool, dry place.
A refridgerator is TOO cool and damp. A nice August/September night
in an open garage in New Jersey is perfect.
11. Using a wooden rolling pin or mortor and pestal, crush the frangible
powder as fine as required for the intended use. Fine is better for
reloading; coarse is okay for bombs.
12. Sift the powder through a fine scren to grade for particle size.
13. Use to wreck havok..er...I mean havoc and hell...
Some Uses in Detail
===================
For people that are into guns, you can sieve the very fine particle
out and use them for reloading ammo. I know people that have loaded it
into .22 LR cartridges after they had pulled the heads and dumped the
factory powder charge.
The powder is best used for bombs though. Basically because it is not
to nice on gun barrels.
Sugar powder is MATCH-SENSITIVE. I belive that it is also impact
sensitive. I also suspect that it is CAP-SENSITIVE fro those of you who
fool around with blasting caps and dynamite.
In three-quarter-inch pipes, the sugar does not reach critical mass
and simply fizzles. When ignighted with a fuze in half-pound quantities in
one-half-inch or larger pipe bombs, it "barks" nicely, doing a decent
amount of damage. The best charges are packed in as dense a manner as
possible.
Many people have many different for the best designed pipe bomb. I'll
throw my hat into the ring with my favorite design:
2-IN. OR LARGER IRON PIPE WITH THREADED END CAPS
========== ==========
= = = =
= |-----------------------------------| =
= | | =
= | <---------------Pipe packed
= |________________ | ________________| = with sugar
= = | <--- Fuze Hole = = powder.
========== | ==========
| <--- Fuze
COMMON SODA STRAW FILLED WITH MIX OF:
50% SUGAR CHLORATE, 50% FINE HARDWOOD SAWDUST
___________________________________________________
/________\__________\__________\__________\_________\
Another type of fuse to make is the cotton string dipped in a solution
of sugar powder. It can be subject to flash burns, so it should only be
used in very long length. Fortunatly, it is cheap and easy to make.
The straw design is mch more reliable and predictable than the string
fuze. Just take a nice fat straw and fill it with the about mixture.
Varing the amount of sawdust controls the timing of the fuze. Not to
mention, you can slip ends into each other to further lenthen the time of
the fuze.
The most unusual and most fun thing to do with sugar powder is the ol'
light bulb trick. First take a simple 60- or 100-watt light bulb. Knock
out a small chunk of the side using a towel or rag a small ball peen
hammer. Then fill the bulb with one-quarter to one-half pound of sugar
powder.
When you turn on the light switch, the oxygen exposed elements in the
bulbs flash, setting off the sugar powder, which thump the room nicely.
The thump is not TOO powerful however. It doesn't even blow out the
windows. BUT it does create SO much smoke and confusion that it is well
worth trying to get the bulb to break corrrectly.
-- Roofing: A Beginning Guide --
Roofs? Why?
------------
The law calls it Tresspassing. We, in our circle of friends, call it roofing.
It is the art of exploring Roof-tops, and generally creating havoc, while up
there. Havoc the Chaos (rip), was the one who enjoyed roofing most, but he is
not here to present this file. I felt that roofing was a sport, and the high-
light was not to get caught. We have been "caught" by the police, and other
various peoples while exploring, but it's really been no big deal. On with some
ideas...
Creative!
---------
The first thing you have to do, although it is rather obvious, is get on top
of the roof. Usually, one can climb the pipes on the side/back of the building.
Some of them can be quite hot, so be careful. We have figured many creative
ways to get on top of roofs, including climbing a nearby roof-top and jumping to
the other roof. (This can get sometimes- dangerous.) It depends what type of
roof you want to get on. We began inhabiting roofs of small department stores,
causing some vandalism up there, like shorting the signs, breaking the
skylights, and turning the air conditioners on and off. One thing that Havoc
the Chaos and the Moon Roach overlooked (sad) was the fact that there were
people inside the store while they had fun. The local police department had
quite a short talk with them. We went on to bigger and better things...
K-Mart was a roof that we visited quite often, and we had a very sadistic
approach towards this store. Taking long, floresicent lighting tubes from the
nearby dumpster, they would toss them down into the garden center. This was
humorous, to a point. "Payless" was also interesting.
Insanity?
---------
We actually did get on the roof of a local shopping mall. You see, this
particular mall (known in Sunnyvale, as "Vallco", by the way) had a japanese
restraunt near the upper level, which you could enter through the outside of the
mall. It had a nice grid-type pattern, which we climbed up (at 4 o'clock in the
morning) and accessed the roof. The view was nice, although it was dark and
quite foggy. Sonitrol (tm), which was discussed in eariler text-files, is a
sound-detecting device, that was present on top of this mall. When roofing,
beware of these little buggers. They resemble long, metal sprinkers, and in the
dead of night, it's quite easy to trip over them. We ended up distroying an
antennia, nothing else. Remember this, when roofing in the early morning, !get
off! the roof before the sun rises. We had quite a scramble getting down.
Abandoned Buildings?
--------------------
Abandoned buildings, despite what your fourth grade teacher told you, can
prove to be interesting. We've found many useful things, such as spray paint,
nails, and even small pieces of machinery. Spray Paint is fun, but you must
remember not to go overboard. (I think that Havoc was crazy spray-painting
"Anarchy!" in the bathrooms of the local fast-food joint...) The most
interesting abandoned buildings are un-used canneries, warehouses, and storage
buildings. These don't !usually! have security guards, but we have stumbled
upon many of these people.
Guards, Cops, and others!
-------------------------
You've been caught. Big deal, all they generally do is ask for your name. Of
course, my name was different every time I was caught. Just play it really
cool, and if your wallet is not in plain sight, then say you don't have id.
Security guards won't detain you, unless you've done some obvious vandalism.
They want your name and phone number, according to another guard, to call your
parents !if! any vandalism has been done. You must be good in impromtu and be
quick about it. (The Moon Roach and I lived on "Penny Lane" and "Abbey Road".
That's irony, mind you...Hahaha...)
Why, though, why?
-----------------
I really don't know. Roofing, like exploring, is adventurous, and fun...to an
extent. If you are the type to be scared of heights, and not into senseless
violence, then don't bother with a sport such as this. Enjoy.
3.54 BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES
Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would be
to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or other
gelatinized fuel, and light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used, and
on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and expand to
the point of bursting the container in about five minutes. In theory, the gas
would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized fuel, producing a large
fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of the bottled gas container
often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the expanding gas from igniting. By
using a metal bucket half filled with gasoline, however, the chances of ignition
are better, since the gasoline is less likely to be extinguished. Placing the
canister of bottled gas on a bed of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would
probably be the most effective way of securing ignition of the expanding gas,
since although the bursting of the gas container may blow out the flame of the
gasoline, the burning charcoal should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide,
hydrogen, propane, acetylene, or any other flammable gas will do nicely.
4.0 USING EXPLOSIVES
Once a terrorist has made his explosives, the next logical step is to
apply them. Explosives have a wide range of uses, from harassment, to vandalism,
to murder. NONE OF THE IDEAS PRESENTED HERE ARE EVER TO BE CARRIED OUT,
EITHER
IN PART OR IN FULL! DOING SO CAN LEAD TO PROSECUTION, FINES, AND
IMPRISONMENT!
The first step that a person that would use explosive would take would
be to determine how big an explosive device would be needed to do whatever had
to be done. Then, he would have to decide what to make his bomb with. He would
also have to decide on how he wanted to detonate the device, and determine
where the best placement for it would be. Then, it would be necessary to see
if the device could be put where he wanted it without it being discovered or
moved. Finally, he would actually have to sit down and build his explosive
device. These are some of the topics covered in the next section.
4.1 SAFETY
There is no such thing as a "safe" explosive device. One can only speak
in terms of relative safety, or less unsafe.
4.2 IGNITION DEVICES
There are many ways to ignite explosive devices. There is the classic
"light the fuse, throw the bomb, and run" approach, and there are sensitive
mercury switches, and many things in between. Generally, electrical detonation
systems are safer than fuses, but there are times when fuses are more
appropriate than electrical systems; it is difficult to carry an electrical
detonation system into a stadium, for instance, without being caught. A device
with a fuse or impact detonating fuse would be easier to hide.
4.21 FUSE IGNITION
The oldest form of explosive ignition, fuses are perhaps the favorite
type of simple ignition system. By simply placing a piece of waterproof fuse in
a device, one can have almost guaranteed ignition. Modern waterproof fuse is
extremely reliable, burning at a rate of about 2.5 seconds to the inch. It is
available as model rocketry fuse in most hobby shops, and costs about $3.00 for
a nine-foot length. Fuse is a popular ignition system for pipe bombers because
of its simplicity. All that need be done is light it with a match or lighter.
Of course, if the Army had fuses like this, then the grenade, which uses
fuse ignition, would be very impracticle. If a grenade ignition system can be
acquired, by all means, it is the most effective. But, since such things do not
just float around, the next best thing is to prepare a fuse system which does
not require the use of a match or lighter, but still retains its simplicity.
One such method is described below:
MATERIALS
_________
strike-on-cover type matches
electrical tape or duct tape
waterproof fuse
1) To determine the burn rate of a particular type of fuse, simply measure a
6 inch or longer piece of fuse and ignite it. With a stopwatch, press the
start button the at the instant when the fuse lights, and stop the watch when
the fuse reaches its end. Divide the time of burn by the length of fuse, and
you have the burn rate of the fuse, in seconds per inch. This will be shown
below:
Suppose an eight inch piece of fuse is burned, and its complete time
of combustion is 20 seconds.
20 seconds
---------- = 2.5 seconds per inch.
8 inches
If a delay of 10 seconds was desired with this fuse, divide the desired
time by the number of seconds per inch:
10 seconds
------------------ = 4 inches
2.5 seconds / inch
NOTE: THE LENGTH OF FUSE HERE MEANS LENGTH OF FUSE TO THE POWDER. SOME
FUSE,
AT LEAST AN INCH, SHOULD BE INSIDE THE DEVICE. ALWAYS ADD THIS EXTRA
INCH, AND PUT THIS EXTRA INCH AN INCH INTO THE DEVICE!!!
2) After deciding how long a delay is desired before the explosive device is
to go off, add about 1/2 an inch to the premeasured amount of fuse, and
cut it off.
3) Carefully remove the cardboard matches from the paper match case. Do not
pull off individual matches; keep all the matches attached to the cardboard
base. Take one of the cardboard match sections, and leave the other one
to make a second igniter.
4) Wrap the matches around the end of the fuse, with the heads of the matches
touching the very end of the fuse. Tape them there securely, making sure not
to put tape over the match heads. Make sure they are very secure by pulling
on them at the base of the assembly. They should not be able to move.
5) Wrap the cover of the matches around the matches attached to the fuse, making
sure that the striker paper is below the match heads and the striker faces
the match heads. Tape the paper so that is fairly tight around the matches.
Do not tape the cover of the striker to the fuse or to the matches. Leave
enough of the match book to pull on for ignition.
_____________________
\ /
\ / ------ match book cover
\ /
| M|f|M ---|------- match head
| A|u|A |
| T|s|T |
| C|e|C |
|tapeH|.|Htape|
| |f| |
|#####|u|#####|-------- striking paper
|#####|s|#####|
\ |e| /
\ |.| /
\ |f| /
\ |u| /
|ta|s|pe|
|ta|e|pe|
|.|
|f|
|u|
|s|
|e|
|.|
|_|
The match book is wrapped around the matches, and is taped to itself.
The matches are taped to the fuse. The striker will rub against the
matcheads when the match book is pulled.
6) When ready to use, simply pull on the match paper. It should pull the
striking paper across the match heads with enough friction to light them.
In turn, the burning matcheads will light the fuse, since it adjacent to the
burning match heads.
4.22 IMPACT IGNITION
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous
terrorist activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it
must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being
transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a
removable impact initiator.
The best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory
made initiators or primers. A no. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such
primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2.50. To use such
a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples
are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a
package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes
all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the
cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________
| |
_ |
| | |
_______| |^^^^^^^^| |
| ___________| |
| | |
no. 11 |_______| |
percussion _______ | ------- threads for screwing
cap here | | | nipple onto bomb
| |___________ |
|_______ | |
| |^^^^^^^^^| |
|_| |
|
|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into
whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed
into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed
on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount
before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The
only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must
strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small
parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown,
should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with
mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it
strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person
carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
4.23 ELECTRICAL IGNITION
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and
most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition
work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools
of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe",
comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get
hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device
will explode, within fractions of a second. Detonation can be aborted in less
than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or
if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters
are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction
also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost
about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two
wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get,
but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run
through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Military squibs
can be used to set off sensitive high explosives, such as R.D.X., or potassium
chlorate mixed with petroleum jelly. Igniters can be used to set off black
powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order
explosive.
4.24 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of
mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of
switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person
who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it
explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
4.241 Mercury Switches
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal
conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at
room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with
two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's
nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help
to explain a mercury switch.
______________
A / \ B
_____wire +______/___________ \
\ ( Hg ) | /
\ _(_Hg_)__|___/
|
|
wire - |
|
|
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both
contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in
its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can
touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only
touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury
does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position.
This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in
the path of a swinging door in the verticle position, the motion of the door
would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape.
This would tilt the switch into the verticle position, causing the mercury to
touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the
igniter or squib in an explosive device. Imagine opening a door and having it
slammed in your face by an explosion.
4.242 Tripwire Switches
A tripwire is an element of the classic booby trap. By placing a nearly
invisible line of string or fishing line in the probable path of a victim, and
by putting some type of trap there also, nasty things can be caused to occur.
If this mode of thought is applied to explosives, how would one use such a
tripwire to detonate a bomb. The technique is simple. By wrapping the tips of
a standard clothespin with aluminum foil, and placing something between them,
and connecting wires to each aluminum foil contact, an electric tripwire can
be made, If a piece of wood attached to the tripwire was placed between the
contacts on the clothespin, the clothespin would serve as a switch. When the
tripwire was pulled, the clothespin would snap together, allowing current to
flow between the two pieces of aluminum foil, thereby completing a circuit,
which would have the igniter or squib in it. Current would flow between
the contacts to the igniter or squib, heat the igniter or squib, causing it
it to explode.
__________________________________
\_foil___________________________/
Insert strip of ----------------------------spring
wood with trip- _foil__________________________
wire between foil /_______________________________\
contacts.
Make sure that the aluminum foil contacts do not touch the spring, since
the spring also conducts electricity.
4.243 Radio Control Detonators
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled
detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be
several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes,
in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators
is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that
a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio
control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to
devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store
or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode,
all that he/she would have to do is detach the solenoid/motor that controls the
motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the
elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the
squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The
device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully
charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part
that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
4.3 DELAYS
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is
set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would
cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with
the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to
be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it
does.
4.31 FUSE DELAYS
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for
ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average
cigarette burns for about 8 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating,
the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker
than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to
go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in
a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of
a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough
oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses
will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure
they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate
is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way
through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing
the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=|
|=| ---------- filter
|=|
| |
| |
|o| ---------- hole for fuse
cigarette ------------ | |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_| ---------- light this end
A similar type of device can be make from powdered charcoal and a sheet
of paper. Simply roll the sheet of paper into a thin tube, and fill it with
powdered charcoal. Punch a hole in it at the desired location, and insert a
fuse. Both ends must be glued closed, and one end of the delay must be doused
with lighter fluid before it is lit. Or, a small charge of gunpowder mixed with
powdered charcoal could conceivably used for igniting such a delay. A chain of
charcoal briquettes can be used as a delay by merely lining up a few bricks
of charcoal so that they touch each other, end on end, and lighting the first
brick. Incense, which can be purchased at almost any novelty or party supply
store, can also be used as a fairly reliable delay. By wrapping the fuse
about the end of an incense stick, delays of up to 1/2 an hour are possible.
Finally, it is possible to make a relatively slow-burning fuse in the
home. By dissolving about one teaspoon of black powder in about 1/4 a cup of
boiling water, and, while it is still hot, soaking in it a long piece of all
cotton string, a slow-burning fuse can be made. After the soaked string dries,
it must then be tied to the fuse of an explosive device. Sometimes, the
end of the slow burning fuse that meets the normal fuse has a charge of black
powder or gunpowder at the intersection point to insure ignition, since the
slow-burning fuse does not burn at a very high temperature. A similar type of
slow fuse can be made by taking the above mixture of boiling water and black
powder and pouring it on a long piece of toilet paper. The wet toilet paper
is then gently twisted up so that it resembles a firecracker fuse, and is
allowed to dry.
4.32 TIMER DELAYS
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who
wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location
and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place
if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay.
By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired,
and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be
made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less
than an hour is desired.
___________________________________ to igniter from igniter
| |
| 12 | : :
| 11 1 | : :
| | : :
| 10 2 | : :
| o................|......: :
| | :
| 9 3 | :
| | :
| | :
| 8 4 | :
| o.........|...... :
| 7 5 | : :
| 6 | :.+.....-.....:
|__________________________________| __|_____|
| |
| battery |
o - contacts | |
..... - wire | |
|___________|
This device is set to go off in eleven hours. When the hour hand of the
clock reaches the contact near the numeral 5, it will complete the circuit,
allowing current to flow through the igniter or squib.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set
for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in
an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing
the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or
igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. To utilize
this type of timer, one must have a socket that the clock can be plugged into.
All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time,
connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic
watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the
watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer
could be extremely small. The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would
be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from
the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib
would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that
would be ideal. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or
electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would
not have to be stepped up.
4.33 CHEMICAL DELAYS
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in
some cases. If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid,
and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat
through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum
foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be
open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is
forming does not break the container. See diagram on following page.
_ _
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |_____________| |
| | | |
| | sulfuric | |
| | | |
| | acid | |
| | | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| | (several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured
there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used
to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
1) Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that
eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed
underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container,
a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the
wires are immersed in the acid.
2) Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If
the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate,
the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be
used to ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter
for a thermit bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50
ratio with the thermit, and this mixture is used as an igniter for
the rest of the thermit.
3) Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permangenate in a similar way.
4.56 PHONE BOMBS
The phone bomb is an explosive device that has been used in the past
to kill or injure a specific individual. The basic idea is simple: when the
person answers the phone, the bomb explodes. If a small but powerful high
explosive device with a squib was placed in the phone receiver, when the
current flowed through the receiver, the squib would explode, detonating the
high explosive in the person's hand. Nasty. All that has to be done is
acquire a squib, and tape the receiver switch down. Unscrew the mouthpiece
cover, and remove the speaker, and connect the squib's leads where it was.
Place a high explosive putty, such as C-1 (see section 3.31) in the receiver,
and screw the cover on, making sure that the squib is surrounded by the C-1.
Hang the phone up, and leave the tape in place. When the individual to whom
the phone belongs attempts to answer the phone, he will notice the tape, and
remove it. This will allow current to flow through the squib. Note that
the device will not explode by merely making a phone call; the owner of the
phone must lift up the receiver, and remove the tape. It is highly probable
that the phone will be by his/her ear when the device explodes...
5.21 SPECIAL AMMUNITION FOR HANDGUNS
If an individual wished to produce explosive ammunition for his/her
handgun, he/she could do it, provided that the person had an impact-sensitive
explosive and a few simple tools. One would first purchase all lead bullets,
and then make or acquire an impact-detonating explosive. By drilling a hole
in a lead bullet with a drill, a space could be created for the placement of
an explosive. After filling the hole with an explosive, it would be sealed
in the bullet with a drop of hot wax from a candle. A diagram of a completed
exploding bullet is shown below.
_o_ ------------ drop of wax
/|*|\
| |*|-|----------- impact-sensitive explosive
| |_| |
|_____|
This hollow space design also works for putting poison in bullets.
7.0 PYROTECHNICA ERRATA
There are many other types of pyrotechnics that a perpetrator of
violence might employ. Smoke bombs can be purchased in magic stores, and large
military smoke bombs can be bought through adds in gun and military magazines.
Also, fireworks can also be used as weapons of terror. A large aerial display
rocket would cause many injuries if it were to be fired so that it landed on the
ground near a crowd of people. Even the "harmless" pull-string fireworks, which
consists of a sort of firecracker that explodes when the strings running
through it are pulled, could be placed inside a large charge of a sensitive
high explosive. Tear gas is another material that might well be useful
to the sociopath, and such a material could be instantly disseminated over
a large crowd by means of a rocket-bomb, with nasty effects.
PART 2 - Tennis ball cannons
------ Information from the Usenet. The Usenet is a worldwide network of
15,000 machines and over 500,000 people- And growing!
At this time (twelve years ago) most soft drink cans were rolled tin rather
than the molded aluminum. We would cut the tops and bottoms off of a
bunch of them and tape them together with duct tape, forming a tube
of two feet or more. At the end we would tape a can with the bottom
intact, more holes punched (with a can opener) around the top, and a
small hole in the side at the base.
We then fastened this contraption to a tripod so we could aim it reliably.
Any object that came somewhat close to filling the tube was then placed
therein. In the shop, we used the clock as a target and an empty plastic
solder spool as ammunition, with tape over the ends of the center hole and
sometimes filled with washers for weight. When taken to parties or picnics,
we would use whatever was handy. Hot dog rolls or napkins filled with
potato chips provided spectacular entertainment.
Once loaded, a small amount of lighter fluid was poured into the hole in
the side of the end can and allowed to vaporize for a few moments. The
"fire control technician" would announce "Fire in the Hole" and ignite
it.
BOOM! Whoosh! The clock never worked after that!
----------
Our version of the potatoe chip cannon, was built similarly.
Ours used coke cans, six with the top and bottom removed, and the
seventh had church key holes all around one end. This was spiral
wrapped with at least two rolls of duct tape. A wooden shoulder rest
and forward hand grip was taped to the tube. For ignition we used
lantern batteries to a model-t coil, actuated by a push button on
the hand grip. A fresh wilson tennis ball was stuffed all the way
back to the grid, and a drop or two of lighter fluid was dropped in
one of two holes in the end. The ignition wire was poked through
the other hole.
We would then lie in ambush, waiting for somthing to move. When fired
with the proper air/fuel mixture, a satisfying thoomp! At maximum range
the ball would travel about 100 yards with a 45 degree launch angle.
Closer up the ball would leave a welt on an warring opponent. When
launched at a moving car the thud as it hit the door would generally
rattle anyone inside.
Luckily we never completed the one that shot golf balls.
PART 3 - Fun with dry ice. LOTS of fun with dry ice. Also from
------ the Usenet.
XXXX@XXXXX.XXX.COM (XXXX XXXXX) writes:
>... if you fill a pot with boiling water, then add some dishsoap, and
>then drop in a large chunk of dry ice, you get a large number of
>bubbles VERY quickly. We're talking terabubbles. Do this outside or
>you will be sorry.
>Has anyone ever thrown dry ice into a public pool? As long as you
>chuck it into the bottom of the deep end, it's safe, and it's really
>impressive if the water is warm enuff
With CO2 flame extinguisher at the ready, here goes --
from _FM 10-0: TRICKS, AWFUL_ (includes material from rec.humor):
DRY ICE
Time Bombs:
1. Get a small plastic container with lid (we used the small plastic
cans that hold the coaters used for large-format Polaroid film). A
film canister would probably work; the key is, it should seal tightly
and take a fair amount of effort to open).
Place a chunk of dry ice in the can, put on the lid without quite
sealing it. Put the assembled bomb in your pocket, or behind your
back.
Approach the mark and engage in normal conversation. When his
attention is drawn away, quickly seal the lid on the bomb, deposit it
somewhere within a few feet of the mark, out of obvious sight, then
leave.
Depending on variables (you'll want to experiment first), you'll hear
a loud "pop" and an even louder "Aarrggghhh!" within a minute, when
the CO2 pressure becomes sufficient to blow off the lid.
In a cluttered lab, this is doubly nasty because the mark will
proabably never figure out what made the noise.
2. Put 2-3 inches of water in a 2-liter plastic pop bottle. Put in
as many chunks of dry ice as possible before the smoke gets too thick.
Screw on the cap, place in an appropriate area, and run like hell.
After about a minute (your mileage may vary), a huge explosion will
result, spraying water everywhere, along with what's left of the 2-
liter bottle.
More things to do with Dry Ice:
"I put it in my teacher's coffee. (Holy sh-t, the place is on fire!)"
"Throw it in toilets. (Creature from the Brown Lagoon)"
"Make soda from ordinary juice, etc."
"Blow up balloons and condoms with it (Put a chunk in a balloon, tie
up the end.)"
"Fun stuff. It SCREAMS when it comes into contact with metal..."
"You can safely hold a small piece of dry ice in your mouth if you
KEEP IT MOVING CONSTANTLY. It looks like you're smoking or on fire."
Fluorescein (the stuff in navy-surplus sea dye markers) is
effective in swimming pools. Or try a "Baby Ruth" candy bar...
Hydrogen Pressure Device:
=========================
Materials Needed: Bottle or jar, acid, aluminum foil, cloth [optional].
Seltzer Bottles have given better results overall, but a jar will usually do
the job. A strong cap or lid is also needed to prevent the hydrogen gas from
escaping. Many acids [or even bases] will work with the aluminum foil. We
have had success with muriatic acid [which is inexpensive, and easy to get]
and hydrochloric acid. A base such as Milk of Magnesia or Liquid Plumr should
also work with the aluminum foil. If you are using an acid, other metals
besides aluminum should work. Zinc and magnesium are two such metals.
Procedure: Fill approximately 1/6 of your bottle with your acid/base. Put two
or three rolled up, cigar-shaped pieces of aluminum foil in the bottle, and
when ready, cap tightly. Shake the bottle to cover all of the aluminum with
acid, and quickly get out of the area. A typical explosion will spread glass
over a 35 yard radius. You can experiment with your materials to find the
optimum amounts of acid/base and metal that you will need. Caution must be
used with fast reactions [i.e. Hydrochloric acid with Zinc] so that the
bomb won't explode too too early. To achieve a "fireball" effect, tie a
burning cloth to the bottle. When the explosion occurs, the flaming rag will
ignite the released hydrogen; producing a brief fireball.
Observations: The explosion is relatively loud; being greater than that of a
shotgun firing. Debris is usually spread over a 25-35 yard radius. On
occaision, it will take several minutes for the bomb's pressure to build up.
If you are unsure about the state of the device, we recommend that you wait
at least 5 minutes before going near the bomb. You might want to break
the bottle from a distance by shooting it with a gun or throwing rocks at it.
We cannot emphasize how important it is for you to clear the area as quickly as
possible. Don't waste time by messing with the burning cloth! If you're going
to use the cloth, ignite it quickly. We had one of these blow up only seconds
after we cleared the area. One should value his life more than he values a
comparatively worthless bomb!
Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device:
===============================
Materials: Bottle or jar, dry ice, water [optional].
As with the hydrogen device, we have had greater success with seltzer bottles
than with jars. Once again, it is assumed that you have a good cap or lid to
prevent the carbon dioxide gas from escaping. Dry Ice can usually be bought
from an ice cream store for under $1.50 a pound. Dry ice does not keep long
[it becomes gaseous at -109 F] and refridgeration will help little. Water can
be used to speed up the device's reaction.
Procedure: Break the dry ice into chunks that will fit in your bottle. The
more dry ice you have, the faster the reaction. Cap the bottle tightly, and
quickly clear the area. If you need a fast reaction, add water to the bottle
before capping. The reaction's speed increases with warmer water. Be careful
not to get a reaction that is too fast. People have had these devices blow up
in their faces because they used hot water and didn't clear the area fast
enough. Take into consideration the temperature of your site and excercise
caution on hot days. We strongly advise against using hot water in this bomb!
[Unless, of course, you have a death wish]
Observations: The is a very economical and simple bomb. It can be extremely
dangerous if the user is careless. By using water of different temperatures,
one can roughly control the speed of this bomb's reaction. We've had a few
close calls with this bomb, so we don't use water in it anymore. The reaction
goes fast enough without water.
Carbon Dioxide Pressure Device II:
==================================
Materials: Bottle or jar, baking soda, vinegar, tissue paper.
This is another carbon dioxide producing bomb. It is generally less effective
than the two previous bombs we have described.
Procedure: Fill about 1/5 of your bottle with vinegar. Next take some tissue
paper [Kleenex or toilet paper] and wrap it around as much baking soda as
possible. You may want to use a few pieces of tissue paper. The more tissue
paper you use, the longer the delay will be for the reaction. When ready, drop
the wrapped baking soda into the bottle, cap the bottle *quickly*, and [need
we say?] run! If the bomb never explodes, that means there wasn't enough
pressure. On your next try, add more vinegar and use more baking soda.
Observations: Experimentation is the key to perfecting this bomb. Of course,
be extremely careful, and don't stick around after capping. The materials for
this bomb are common household items, making it more convienient to produce
than the other two bombs.
Acetylene Pressure Device:
==========================
Materials: Jar, calcium carbide, water, cardboard.
This is a very deadly device. Carbide, when in contact with water, produces
the ultra-flammable acetylene gas.
Procedure: Fill about 1/3 of the jar with water. Next, cut out a piece of
cardboard that is roughly the diameter of the jar. Push this inside the jar
about 1/2 way. Don't let it touch the water! The cardboard should stay where
you put it if it's big enough. Now put some carbide onto the cardboard. You
don't want the carbide to touch the water. Cap the jar, and when ready, turn
it upsidown and shake it a little. The jar should violently explode shortly
thereafter. If you want, leave a burning rag next to the bottle and you'll
have a fireball. Have the rag lit before you shake the jar! Don't waste any
time next to the jar after shaking it! This is a very deadly bomb, and you
don't want to be its victim.
Observations: This is a very dangerous, yet spectacular bomb. Needless to
say, it's also quite loud. If you don't know where to get carbide, try a
good sporting goods store. It's used in some miner's lamps.
Chlorine Pressure Device:
=========================
Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, acid, bleach.
This is a fairly tricky bomb to make. Clorine is not a good gas to mess with
so use care with this device. Chlorine can blind you and damage your lungs.
Procedure: Fill one test tube with acid, and fill 1/3 of the jar with bleach.
Put the acid filled test tube in the jar and tape it to the side of the jar.
If your jar is large, you will want to fill two test tubes with acid. When
ready, cap the jar and turn it upside-down. Run to a nice viewing location
and watch the explosion! Don't go too near; chlorine is powerful stuff.
Observations: This pressure device not only makes a nice explosion, but
spreads chlorine around the area. Try to get a small jar and big test tubes
for this bomb. If you have a big jar and small test tubes, there won't be
enough pressure to cause an explosion
Phosgene Pressure Device:
=========================
Materials: Small-medium sized jar, 1 or 2 large test tubes, ammonia, bleach.
This bomb has the same setup as the chlorine bomb, but uses ammonia instead of
acid to react with the bleach. Phosgene is also a dangerous gas and was used
in World War I in chemical weapons.
Procedure: Use the same procedure as the chlorine device, but use ammonia
instead of acid. First, try putting the ammonia in the test tube and the
bleach in the jar. If that doesn't create enough pressure put the ammonia
in the jar and the bleach in the test tube.
Observations: This is almost identical to the chlorine bomb. The only
difference is that they make different gasses. These last two bombs are
not as reliable as other bombs in this manuscript, but you can experiment
to get the best results.
Radar Detectors!!!! Part one: Operation.
Police Radar works via the doppler effect, best
demonstrated by sound rather than microwaves. The doppler effect is the
relation of speed to the pitch of 'sound'. Sometime, all of you must have
had the distinct pleasure of being honked at by a motorist on the go,
you might have noticed that the horn <an F flat on most american cars>
begins with a higher pitch and as the car passes, drowns off to a lower
tone. The sound waves at the front of the car are pressed together by the
forward motion of the car, creating a higher pitch. As the car passes,
the tone dies off to a lower pitch because the waves are spread out.
Police radar works in much the same way. The major differences are the
frequency and the concentration of the carrier.
As of 1988, the F.C.C. is rumored to have lifted restrictions
on police radar frequencies. Before, only two frequencies were approved for
police radar use. X-band <10.525 GHz> which is most commonly used, and
K-band <24.15 Ghz>. I will assume for now, due to lack of any SOLID evidence
supporting the restriction lift, that those are the only two in operation.
Police radar 'beams' are similar in shape to a flashlight beam. They begin
with a thin width and cone outwards with distance. Most guns operating at
the X-band level have a range of about 2000 ft., although high power units
can exceed 2500 and 3000ft., and K-band guns fall shorter at about 1200 ft..
At 1500ft., the radar beam becomes about the width of four highway lanes, so
for practical purposes radars range is around 1700 ft.. A radar signal
transmitted from the 'Radar Gun's' transmitter, (called the oscillator) will
bounce off a object and return to the radar receiver (or antenna). If the
object is moving, the frequency of the beam will be altered as it bounces.
This is most easily visualized watching water ripples. Assume now that I
have just dropped a pebble in a pond, and the ripples are moving outward,
assume also for purposes of simplicity that the ripples are moving at
1 foot per second, and that they are one foot apart. The ripples are
therefore also one second apart. Upon bouncing off a stationary object
the ripples will return weakened, but at the same interval and speed
<Not really the same speed, but let's not complicate things>. Now let
us assume that a toy boat is traveling in the water at .5 ft. per second,
1/2 the speed of the ripples, away from the point which I dropped the
pebble. Assume the first ripple has hit the boat and is traveling back.
The second ripple now traveling at 1 foot per second is only gaining on the
boat by .5 feet per second <1 ft. per second - .5 ft. per second>. This means
that the ripple is one foot away from the boat, as the ripples are one foot
apart. The ripple will take 2 second to reach the boat, as the closure speed
is .5 ft. per second and the distance is 1 foot. The ripple strikes the boat
and bounces back two seconds after the first ripple. The process works
inversely for an object moving towards the pebbles point of impact.
As the distance between the ripples can be determined by the speed, on the
other side, the speed can be determined by the distance between the ripples.
Police radar works in the same way with microwaves. The microwave signal
bounces off a moving vehicle and returns altered in frequency. In this way
the radar unit determines the speed of the object. Radar is only accurate
when the object is moving directly at, or directly away from the gun,
although some modern guns will account for this 'COSINE error', most won't.
Cosine error can be defined as this: When a radar signal bounces off an
object at an angle from the objects direction of travel it will return a
portion of the objects speed computed by the cosine of the infraction
angle. If the angle of the objects direction and the radars direction is
20 degrees the speed returned by the radar is 93.97% of the objects
actual speed. cos (20) = .93969262 * objects speed = returned speed.
For example: A car is traveling at 75 m.p.h.. The state trooper, in his
infinite wisdom, decides to "Clock" the automobile in hopes of meeting his
quota for the month. Picking up his handy radar gun, he aims, and fires
an invisible beam of microwave energy. The officer however, being the rookie
he is, leaves a high angle between the cars direction and his beam of 45
degrees. Cos (45) = .707106781 .707106781 * 75m.p.h. = 53.03300859
53 m.p.h. is displayed on the officers screen. Lucky motorist.
Sorry 40 column users.
|
|\
| \
| \ - Cosine Error -
| \
| 45 \
| deg.\ - radar beam
| \
| \
v \
Direction of \
cars travel \
\
X - state trooper.
Part 2: Application
In 1986, over 15 million speeding tickets were issued,
and experts estimate that over 25% of them were in error. Police have
been using radar for speed control for many years, and as the technology
has become more complex and accurate, so has the ability to get away with
the slight infractions of the speed limits set by the government become more
difficult. In recent years, the three most damaging advances to motorists
in radar technology include: A> Instant on radar. B> K-band radar. and
C> Cosine error correcting radar units.
Instant on radar.
With the increase of radar receivers, or
"Detectors" on the roads, police have attempted to bypass the motorists
first line of defense. The most damaging advance in the war against speeding
motorists is instant on radar. The idea behind instant on radar is to make
the radar detector useless to the motorist by making his warning too late to
react to. Instant on radar was developed in early 1983, but never marketed
until late 1984 when the michigan state troopers were equipped with the first
instant on radar guns. It operates by deactivating the oscillator until
triggered by the officer. When used properly and under the right traffic
conditions, it is indefensible. It works like a camera, the officer
operating the radar will position himself behind a blind corner or over a
hill. When the approaching car crests the hill or rounds the corner, the
officer will activate the oscillator, taking a "snapshot" of your car.
As microwaves travel at the speed of light, any attempt at slowing down
is futile, the officer behind the gun has your speed in less than a tenth
of a second.
K-band Radar.
When radar detectors were first marketed by
the markers of ESCORT, there was only one type of radar. X-band.
In an attempt to increase the dwindling speeding ticket revenue, K-band
was brought to life. K-band is a different frequency that could not be
picked up by the primitive detectors of the age. However, as the
frequency got out, the detectors adapted, and now any detector worth a dollar
will detect both X and K bands. K band is more dangerous as most K-band
guns are instant on and they have less 'Splash' and range than X-band guns.
This means that a K-band signal is probably closer to you.
Cosine error correcting guns.
Cosine error was a major falling of radar
in the judicial system, all readings were under question in court, the
result was a gun which will correct for cosine error by determining the
angle which the radar beam "impacts" with the car. Also new in correcting cosine
error were guns with 'Speed lock on' in which the highest speed reading
received by the gun is locked in and displayed.
Moving radar guns.
Until new developments, all radar units
had to remain stationary as radar measures only closure speed, and not actual
speed. Moving radar ended this trend. Moving radar works like this. First the radar
gun determines the patrol cars speed by clocking a sign or fixed
object. The closing speed of the patrol car to the sign is subtracted from
the now taken closing speed to the target car.
Patrols speed - 60 m.p.h.
Closing speed to car - 120 m.p.h.
120 m.p.h. - 60 m.p.h. = 60 m.p.h..
Part 3: Defense
From the dawn of speed enforcement, motorists have sought
to defeat the laws, starting with detectors, continuing to jammers and
topping out with the new 'CHiPs detectors' The unfortunate conditions
now favor the police and law enforcement officials with the introduction
of new radar technologies such as instant on radar.
Detectors:
The simple radar receiver is the first line of
defense from radar. Varied in operation and features, the radar detectors
of today are designed to provide high sensitivity and low rates of false
alarms. Good detectors will measure signal strength and type <K or X>
and have an effective range of about 3000 ft. and a probable range of well
over a mile. Sensitivity tops out around 110.5 dBm/cm^2 for X band and
108 dBm/cm^2 for K band <Both set by the passport>. A detector can give
you an excellent advantage over radar by alerting you it's there. Detectors
become especially useful in chicago where instant on radar is not typically
used.
Jammers:
Radar jammers are essentially units that
transmit microwaves at a frequency dictating a certain speed. The result is
regardless of your speed, the police radar unit will display the speed you
set the jammer to transmit. Jammers are highly illegal and will be
confiscated if discovered, expect a stiff fine.
Chip's detector.
This is a new device, which is really a scanner
on the police radio band. It takes advantage of a signal transmitted by the
patrol cars in some states as part of their dispatch system. The signal
carries for about three miles, and the Chip's Detector will alert you if you
are within that range of a highway patrol unit. It also allows scanning
of police radio channels.
Last words.
Radar is a basically accurate instrument, when used
properly, it can be deadly. As I have said before instant on radar is
impossible to avoid when there is no other traffic around, regardless of
a detector. The only thing that comes close is a Radar Jammer, which
will most likely not serve you well unless it is WELL hidden. Radar
jammers are dangerous with the introduction of the HAWK, a radar unit by
Kustom Signals, which DETECTS radar jammers in the hold mode.
Aside from radar, VASCAR
<Visual average speed computer and recorder>
is a new danger to motorists. It is basically a stopwatch
used to time your movement between two point of which the interval distance
is known. Using the formula Average velocity = distance / time, the state
trooper can determine your speed without setting off your detector.
Instant on radar defense.
The only real defense for instant on radar
is traffic. Traffic will cause the trooper to activate his radar gun more
often, cluing you into his presence. A jammer well hidden will help,
but the best technique is to follow a car making good time. Any police
units in the area will clock him first, and legally they have to ticket him,
unless you're too close.
Remember:
Do not speed, it is a dangerous practice, and I can not be responsible
for any injury, or action due to this file, it is for informational
purposes only. The state troopers enforce speed limits for your
safety.
Radar guns: Models.
Radar guns are manufactured by many different
companies, but the primary ones are Kustom Signals, M.p.h. Industries, and Decatur.
The deadliest gun now available is the HAWK
manufactured by Kustom Signals. It is the first gun capable of clocking
cars moving the SAME direction as the patrol car. It has two antennas, one
forward, and one back. Like I stated before, it is also the first gun capable
of detecting radar jammers. These run about 2000$
Kr-11
This gun is a two piece model which uses
a weak pulse signal in the moving mode to determine the patrol car's speed
while not triggering detectors. This gun permits a faster clocking time for
instant on moving radar, it runs about $1200
Falcon
This is a hand held gun operating on K band
Small and compact it is preferred among law enforcement radars. It runs about
600$
Hr-4 Hr-8 Hr-12
400,500,750$ respectively, these are hand
held radar guns made by Kustom Signals
Prices for radar units range from 250-2000$
I personally enjoy harassing that 911
who barrels by at 95 with a detector.
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
{=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...If you do this
right, it will help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a
lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside
the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when
you lock it. To free this wedge, you usually have to turn the lock to the
desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting
the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock
without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps
when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to
find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one.
If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says
use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to
the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Once you have your hair pin (make sure
its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make
a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle.
Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should
do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so
you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have
ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't
figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the
lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides.
When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the
filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the
lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing
down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open
because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open
it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of
beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this
technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock
before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let
me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya
can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a
Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't
that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of
dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making
a substitute key, etc...
Picking Master Locks
Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master
combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has
made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it
hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to
it.
1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on.
1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination),
pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it
turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this
number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number.
2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times,
then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st
number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it.
It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on
it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you
got the second number.
3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers,
then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock
will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be
patient, it takes time.
----------------------------------------
PYROTECHNICAL
DELIGHTS
----------------------------------------
MANY OF YOU OUT THERE PROBABLY HAVEFANTASIES OF REVENGE AGAINST
TEACHERS,
PRINCIPALS AND OTHER PEOPLE WHO ARE JUSTASSHOLES. DEPENDING ON YOUR LEVEL
OF
HATRED OF THIS PERSON I WOULD ADVISE THAT YOU DO SOME OF THESE
FOLLOWING
EXPERIMENTS:
(1) POURING DISHSOAP INTO THE GAS TANK OF YOUR ENEMY- MANY OF YOU
ALREADY
KNOW THAT GASOLINE + DISHSOAP(E.G. JOY, PALMOLIVE, ETC.) FORM A MIXTURE
CALLED
NAPALM. NOW NAPALM IS A JELLY-LIKE SUBSTANCE USED IN BOMBS,
FLAMETHROWERS,
ETC. NOW YOU CAN ONLY GUESS WHAT THIS MIXTURE WOULD DO TO SOMEONE'S FUEL
LINE!
(2) SPREADING DIRTY MOTOR OIL/CASTOR OIL ON SOMEONE'S EXHAUST PIPE-
WHEN THE EXHAUST PIPE HEATS UP(AND IT WILL!!)THE MOTOR OIL OR CASTOR OIL
ON THE PIPE WILL CAUSE THICK, DISGUSTING SMOKE TO OOZE FORTH FROM THE
BACK OF THAT CAR. WHO KNOWS MAYBE
HE/SHE MIGHT BE PULLED OVER AND GIVEN A TICKET!!
FUN WITH ALARMS
A FACT I FORGOT TO MENTION IN MY PREVIOUS ALARM ARTICLES IS THAT ONE CAN
ALSO
USE POLYURETHANE FOAM IN A CAN TO SILENCE HORNS AND BELLS. YOU CAN
PURCHASE
THIS AT ANY HARDWARE STORE AS INSULATION. IT IS EASIER TO HANDLE AND
DRIES
FASTER.
MANY PEOPLE THAT TRAVEL CARRY A POCKET ALARM WITH THEM. THIS ALARM IS
A SMALL
DEVICE THAT IS HUNG AROUND THE DOOR KNOB, AND WHEN SOMEONE TOUCHES THE
KNOB HIS
BODY CAPACITANCE SETS OFF THE ALARM. THESE NASTY NUISENCES CAN BE FOUND
BY
WALKING DOWN THE HALLS OF A HOTEL AND TOUCHING ALL THE DOOR KNOBS VERY
QUICKLY.
IF YOU HAPPEN TO CHANCE UPON ONE, ATTACH A 3' LENGTH OF WIRE OR OTHER
METAL
OBJECT TO THE KNOB. THIS WILL CAUSE THE SLEEPING BUSINESS PIG INSIDE TO
THINK
SOMEONE IS BREAKING IN AND CALL ROOM SERVICE FOR HELP. ALL SORTS OF FUN
AND
GAMES WILL ENSUE.
SOME HIGH-SECURITY INSTALATIONS USE KEYPADS JUST LIKE TOUCH-TONE PADS (A
REGISTERED TRADE MARK OF BELL SYSTEMS) TO OPEN LOCKS OR DISARM ALARMS.
MOST
USE THREE OR FOUR DIGITS. TO FIGURE OUT THE CODE, WIPE THE KEY-PAD FREE FROM
ALL FINGERPRINTS. AFTER IT HAD BEEN USED JUST APPLY FINGER PRINT DUST AND
ALL
FOUR DIGITS WILL BE MARKED. NOW ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT THE
ORDER.
IF YOU WANT TO HAVE SOME FUN WITH A KEYPAD, TRY PRESSING THE * AND # AT
THE
SAME TIME. MANY UNITS USE THIS AS A PANIC BUTTON. THIS WILL BRING THE
OWNER
AND THE COPS RUNNING AND EVERYONE WILL HAVE A GOOD TIME. NEVER TRY TO
REMOVE
THEM FROM THE WALL, AS THEY ALL HAVE TAMPER SWITCHES.
ON THE SUBJECT OF HOLDUPS, MOST PLACES (INCLUDING SUPER-MARKETS, LIQUER
STORES,
ETC.) HAVE WHAT IS KNOWN AS A MONEY CLIP. THESE LITTLE NASTIES ARE PLACED
AT
THE BOTTOM OF A MONEY DRAWER AND WHEN THE LAST FEW BILLS ARE WITH-
DRAWN A
SWITCH CLOSES AND SETS THE ALARM OFF. THAT'S WHY WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR
WITHDRAWL
IT'S BEST TO HELP YOUR-SELF SO YOU CAN CHECK FOR THESE LITTLE NASTIES. IF YOU
FIND THEM, MERELY INSERT ONES UNDERNEATH THE PILE OF TWENTIES, AND THEN
PULL
OUT THE TWEN-TIES, LEAVING THE ONE-DOLLAR BILL BEHIND TO PREVENT THE
CIRCUIT
FROM CLOSING.
IF YOU SHOPLIFT AND SEE CAMERAS, LOOK AT THE BRAND. IF IT IS SURVEILLANCE
VIDEO SYSTEMS (SVS) YOU NEED NOT WORRY. THESE CAMERAS LOOK REALISTIC TO
THE
POINT OF PILOT LIGHTS, COAX, AND SCANNING. HOWEVER, THEY ARE ONLY EMPTY
BOXES.
Preparation of TNT
1. Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric
acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare
another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid
(percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume).
2. Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed
in an ice bath.
3. Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes.
4. remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50
degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated.
5. Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the
temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to
form on the top of the acid.
6. After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and
cooled to 45 begrees C> when reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will
sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid
solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe.
7. Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid
while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this
temperature is reached, it is maintaind for a full half hour.
8. At the end of this period, he solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C>,
and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the
acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottem.
9. Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently
heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accoumplished slowly
and gently.
10.Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution
are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 dgregrees C> to 104 degrees C.,
and is held for three hours.
11.After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C. and
held there for a half hour.
12.After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with
boiling water.
13.After the washing with boiling water, while being stired constantly, the TNT
will begin to solidify.
14.When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so
that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality
TNT.
NOTE: the temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be
used as such. DO NOT estimate or use aproximations. Buy a good centigrade
thermometer.
TIME DELAYED CHEMICAL FUSE
--------------------------
1) Put 1 teaspoon full of of potassium
permanganate in a tin can.
2) add glycerine
3) wait 3-4 min.
4) get the hell out.. the stuff will
smoke, then burst into flame..
** potasium permanganate stains like iodine but worse [it's purple]
** the reaction will spatter a bit, it can be messy...
** it doesn't matter if the amounts are uneven [ie. 1 part to 3 parts]
ALUMINUM KILLER (OVERNIGHT)
---------------
silver iodide --> aluminum iodide
+ aluminum + silver
..or..
AgI + Al --> Ag + AlI
ALUMINUM IODIDE is very hydroscopic -- it will absorb water [it will even
absorb water out of the air!]
SILVER IODIDE eats through aluminum -- the resulting aluminum iodide will
>disolve itself< as it aborbs H20 from the air!
The final result is aluminum with a wet hole in it. [the wetness is AlI
solution]
Natural gas flows through millions of miles of piplines in the U.S. One
charge will blow up a gas pipeline along miles of its length since the
air let into the pipeline by the explosion will cause secondary explosions.
Of 65 pipelines,24 carry 97% of the gas which accounts for more than one-third
of the nation's total energy supply. Only 4 pipelines connects the gas
fields in the South and Southwest to New York and Los Angeles. Maps of the
lines can be obtanied from the Department of Energy and by studying industry
journals.
Oil pipelines can be destroyed by penetrating the central pipeline control
system. In one Southern city, which controls oil movement in several states.
Yikes! And contrary to the argument advanced by some self-styled specialists
and the news media that few possess the technological expertise to use
weapons of mass destruction, it is much much easier than you think.
There's a book giving location,published in the New York Times,Feb 1979,
two large map pinpointing every power station and transmission line from
Washington to the Canadian border. Blowing up some of these stations and
lines would wipe out the electrical supply of the East Coast.
For another example, the a Book called 'Basement Nukes, $6.95, by
some guy named, Charles Clark. Title of the book is :
Technological Terrorism $10.00
Clark shows how they canb be readily obtained by theft from inefficently
guarded nuclear plants and armories. Both of the above mentioned books
are readily available to anyone with the buck, how sad,huh...shit!
Technological Terrorism is a nightmare scenario,and a serious warning to
every one of us.
That really screws up the old head.
EXPLOSIVES AND INCENDIARIES
INTRODUCTION: The trouble with text books on chemistry and explosives is
the attitude with which they are written. They don't say, "Now I know
you would like to blow holy hell out of something just for the fun of it so
here is how to whip up something in your kitchen to do it". They tell you
how Dupont does it or how the anchient Chineese did it but not how you can do
it with the resourses and materials available to you. Even army manuals on
field expedient explosives are almost useless because they are just outlines
written with the understanding that an instructor is going to fill in the
blanks. It is a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together
to make something go "boom". You can find what you need in grocery stores,
hardware stores, and farm supplies. An interesting point to remember is that
it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very
difficult for a home experimenter to make a firecracker, but a bomb capable
of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. The king of explosives for the
do-it-yourselfer is black powder. It is easy to make and when properly confined
is capable of devestating power. CLOSEINFORM ootable powder used for
spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the
name Flowers of Sulfur. If you use Nitrate of Soda, it will be in the form
of prills (little round beads). Bake it in an oven at 250 degrees for 10-15
minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and
switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag
of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag
and pound with hammer. Dump the result into the blender, grind, then strain
through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or Sodium Nitrate, 2
parts powdered charcoal, 1 part sulfur. This mixture will burn if ignited and
will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved,
however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick
together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable
aluminum pie pan. Bake in a preheated oven at 250 degrees for about 30
minutes--get it totally dry. Grind into as fine a powder as possible. A mortar
and pestle is best. If you use a blender at this point, there is a
danger of explosion. It is not very sensative to friction or impact, but is
very sensative to sparks. If you followed these directions, you should
have a fine slate-grey powder.
When baking black powder, remember to preheat the oven. Place your pie pan
approximately in the center of the oven. Do not set it on the bottom of
the oven. These warnings are to prevent hot spots that could ignite the powder
causing a fire or explosion. Something went wrong once when my father-in-law
was doing this and it blew the door right off the oven. His training in
military demolitions included field expedient explosives. The point is that
things can go wrong even when you know what you are doing. Protect yourself at
all times. Use common sense. Wear safety glasses; don't stand in front of
oven, etc. HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE: Take a flat piece of plastic or metal
(brass or aluminum are easy to work with and won't rust). Drill a 1/16th
inch hole through it. This is your die for sizing the fuse. You can make fuses
as big as you want, but this is the right size for the pipe bomb I will be
getting to later. To about 1/2 cup of black powder add water to make a thin
paste. Add 1/2 teaspoon of corn starch. Cut some one foot lengths of cotton
thread. Use cotton, not silk or thread made from synthetic fibers. Put these
together until you have a thickness that fills the hole in the die but can
be drawn through very easily. Tie your bundle of threads together at one end.
Separate the threads and hold the bundle over the black powder mixture.
Lower the threads with a circular motion so they start curling onto the
mixture. Press them under with the back of a teaspoon and continue lowering
them so they coil into the paste. Take the end you are holding and thread it
through the die. Pull it through smoothly in one long motion. To dry
your fuse, lay it on a piece of aluminum foil and bake it in your 250
degree oven or tie it to a grill in the oven and let it hang down. The fuse
must be baked to make it stiff enough for the uses it will be put to later.
Air drying will not do the job. If you used Sodium Nitrate, it will not even
dry completely at room temperatures. Cut the dry fuse with sissors into 2
inch lengths and store in an air tight container. Handle this fuse carefuly to
avoid breaking it. You can also use a firecracker fuse if you have any
available. The fuses can usually be pulled out without breaking. To give
yourself some running time, you will be extending these fuses (blackmatch or
firecracker fuse) with sulfured wick. HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK: Use heavy
cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden
supply for tieing up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by
lighting one end. It sould continue to burn after the match is removed and
when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a
small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250 degrees.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it
is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted
sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to
cool and harden. It can be cut to desired lengths with sissors. 2 inches
is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not
blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a
metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw
off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length
causing unpredictable burning times. Now you have the basic ingredients to
shake the earth like thunder. In the next installment or two, I will tell
you how to put it all together to do just that. You will find that you have
baked a very deadly pie. I have twice been accused of setting off dynamite in
the woods. The explosive power of your little grey powder may exceed your
expectations, so choose your testing ground with care.
HOW TO MAKE ROCKET FUEL:
This is easy to make and fun to play with. Mix equal parts by volume Potassium
or Sodium Nitrate and granulated sugar. Pour a big spoonful of this into a pile.
Stick a piece of blackmatch fuse into it; light; and step back. This is also
a very hot incendiary. A little imagination will suggest a lot of experiments
for this. ANOTHER ROCKET FUEL: Mix equal parts by volume of zinc dust and
sulfur. Watch out if you experiment with this. It goes off in a sudden flash.
It is not a powerful explosive, but is violent stuff even when not confined
because of its fast burning rate. --- As I continue from this point some of the
ingredients are going to be harder to get without going through a chemical
supply. I try to avoid this. I happen to know that B. Prieser Scientific
has been instructed by the police to send them the names of anyone buying
chemicals in certain combinations. For example, if a person were to buy
Sulfuric acid, Nitric acid and Toluene (the makings for TNT) in one order the
police would be notified. I will do the best I can to tell you how to make the
things you need from commonly available materials, but I don't want to leave
out something really good because you might have to scrounge for an ingredient.
I am guessing you would prefer it that way.
HOW TO MAKE CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID FROM BATTERY ACID
Go to an auto supply store and ask for "a small battery acid". This should only
cost a few dollars (about 4 dollars). What you will get is about a gallon of
dilute sulfuric acid. Put a pint of this into a heat resistant glass container.
The glass pitchers used for making coffee are perfect. Do not use a metal
container. Use an extension cord to set up a hotplate out doors. Boil the acid
until white fumes appear. As soon as you see the white fumes, turn off the
hot plate and let the acid cool. Pour the now concentrated acid into a glass
container. The container must have a glass stopper or plastic cap -- no
metal. It must be air tight. Otherwize, the acid will quickly absorb moisture
from the air and become diluted. Want to know how to make a time bomb that
doesn't tick and has no wires or batteries? Hold on to your acid and
follow me into the next installment.
HOW TO MAKE A CHEMICAL TIME DELAY FUSE:
To get an understanding of how this is going to work, mix up equal parts by
volume Potassium chlorate and granulated sugar. Pour a spoonful of
the mixture in a small pile and make a depression in the top with the end of a
spoon. Using a medicine dropper, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid
in the depression and step back. It will snap and crackle a few times and
then burst into vigorous flames. To make the fuse, cut about 2 inches off a
plastic drinking straw. Tamp a small piece of cotton in one end. On top of
this put about an inch of the clorate/sugar mixture. Now lightly tamp
in about a quarter inch of either glass wool or asbestos fibers. Secure this
with the open end up and drop in 3 or 4 drops of sulfuric acid. After a few
minutes the acid will soak through the fibers and ignite the mixture. The time
delay can be controled by the amount of fiber used and by varying how tightly
it is packed. Don't use cotton for this. The acid will react with cotton
and become weakened in the process. By punching a hole in the side of the
straw, a piece of blackmatch or other fuse can be inserted and used to set
off the device of your choice. Potassium chlorate was very popular
with the radical underground. It can be used to make a wide variety of
explosives and incendiaries, some of them extremely dangerous to handle. The
radicals lost several people that way.
HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUSE:
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on
the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the
bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black
powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the
fillament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUSE:
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it
to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns
and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire.
You want about 1/2 inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a
good size wire to use. Cut a 1/2 by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type
used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the
center and press it flat. place the wires so the steel strand is on top of
and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the
strand. The strand should be surounded with powder and not touching anything
else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact
with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and
fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the
powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the
other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.
ELECTRIC FUSE # 3:
An excellent electric fuse can be bought ready made at hobby and toy stores.
They are sold for setting off model rockets.
How to get Revenge on Someone
-----------------------------
Everyone has an enemy that they would like to seek revenge on without the
victim knowing who the aggressor is. Here are ways that have been proven
effective in the field of harrasing and/or annoying someone.
Call the news papers, and adverise an arctile similar to this: "You too
can make calls free through MCI, ITT, and other long distance services just
by making a local call. For more information, send a self-adressed
stamped envlope to:(fill in name and adress with zip code)" After this has
appeared in the papers, inform your local FBI agent or police officer of
his ad. You can also advertise an ad like this: "Apple //e, 128k, 2 disk
drives, Amdek Color 3 Monitor, Hayes Smartmodem 1200, and much more. $750
or best offer. (phone number)".
Another prank is to call house at all hours, and post on all boards that a
new bulletin board is opening up at his number. Get everyone you know to
call him at all times (preferably late at night. Call answering machines,
and give the persons number and tell them to call right away. Also during
the day you can look up people in the phone that have a "Mr. and Mrs." there,
and the wife will probably be home, but not the husband, so tell the wife to
tell the husband to call your victim as soon as possible and give number.
Call Taxi's, Exterminators, Pizza deliverys, Catorers, Garages, Plumers,
Dog Funeral Homes, Flower and Ballon deliverys, Moving Services, Singing
and Striptease telegrams, Junkyards to remove garbage, report robberies and
fires at his/her house, Locksmiths, order oil from several companies
(heating oil), order family portraits taken at their home, sign him/her up
for the army, call realtors to put house for sale, Septic cleaners, house
remodelers, call Bell + tell you are having with phone, call cable company,
and call phone sex lines that call back and give his number to call back.
Order plane tickets, send brochures of all shit like colleges, beauty schools,
and all other things that send info. on their place, and adress it to:
"DICK" and his last name.
To have a little phun, drop by his house one day, tie a chain to the back
of you truck/car and the other end to the victims mailbox. Take off, and no
more mailbox. Also, throw eggs at house and cars, piss on cars and is gas
tank of cars. Get 300 sheets+ of paper and put in a paper shreader and after
it is in 1" by 1" pieces, throw all over his lawn in various places.
Another fun thing is to bring along a baseball bat and knock the shit out
of his mailbox. Send mail with not enough postage to them, and wrap up
bricks and rocks and put no return adress on them and drop in a mailbox.
Get a library card out in his name, and take out books and don't return them.
Lay tacks on either side of tires of his car so either way he will run over
them. Take weed killer, and pour it on his flower garden or put your
initials on his front yard with it so it will show up with dead grass. You
can also use the old trick of laying dog shit on his front porch. Pour
grease all over driveway and steps, dump your garbage cans over front yard,
when he puts his garbage at the end of the driveway, dump the cans over the
street so he will have to pick it up in the morning. Smear warm tar on his
car windshield, and that shit isn't coming off. Crazy Glue or stick gum
over and in his car locks, and if he goes to school do the same to his
locker. Catch fish, and let them sit out in the sun for a day, and that
night lay the fish in their front yard. Lay cow shit in their air conditioner,
and stick sticks in the between the fan blades for the air conditioner.
The toilet paper around their trees is always good, and wet toilet paper and
stand out in the street and whip them at their house, and when it dries, it
is hard as rock stuck to their house. If they leave toys out, stick skate-
boards under car tires, rip heads off of dolls, pull seats out bikes, and
let air out of bike tires. You can also ride by in the car with your BB
gun, and try your target practice. Some of this has been tried, and some
not, but remember that it is best to be near them when these happen, so you
can see their faces. Never hint who you are, and warn that you are not
finshed yet. The best weapon you have is your phone, because they can't keep
their phone off the hook 24 hrs. a day. If they take the phone off the hook,
try back in 1/2 hour, and it will be back on. Most of these have been
proven effective, and the others will most likely effective. We have sat
here for hours thinking of every possible method of harrasing, bothing,
and annoying someone to the point of insanity.
->MEDIUM EXPLOSIVE<-
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1) MIX: 7 PARTS POTASSIUM CHLORATE
--------------------------
1 PART VASELINE
2) TO IGNITE, USE AN ELECTRIC CHARGE OR
A FUSE.
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
]] LOCK PICKING [[
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE
JAMES BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD
BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED
LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND 5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE
UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK
ELSEWHERE.
THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE
"LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO PICK. IF
THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING
THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT.
FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET
HIM TO MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU
TO USE. IF YOU FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T
GIVE UP HOPE. IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS
TO A GRINDER (YOU CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)
THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE
SHOULD BE SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND
THE LONG END OF THE ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.)
IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING LIKE THIS:
#1
\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS
THE HANDLE
\\\ THAT WAS
ALREADY
\\\ (HERE.)
\\\
\\\
\\\
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END
(#1) UNTIL IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST
YOUR TOOL OUT ON DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE
IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW, THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME
LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE OTHER ?
LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.
IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE
INTERIOR OF A LOCK:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
# # # # # # | E
# # # # | Y
* * | H
* * * * * * | O
| L
| E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
*= LOWER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL
(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE
UPPER PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW,
IF YOU PUSH A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ?
THAT IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN.
INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN. THIS TENSION WILL
KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW, WORK FROM THE
BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH.....
THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE
DOOR WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL
PROBABLY TAKE YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT
YOU WILL QUICKLY IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER
WAYS, LET THE SYSOP KNOW.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
$ BLOWING UP A CAR $
$ ------- -- - --- $
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood.
Explosives are placed as near the occupants as possilbe.
The fuse, homemade, commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around
the exhause manifold. After a few minutes on the road the exhaust manifold
gets almost red hot and ignites the fuse.
This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up on
the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't. Besides,
if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the driver may
start the engine before the passenger gets into the car... You can see how
embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you?
Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too set in
thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a car blow
up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the road.
They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electric
wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blasting
cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connected
to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the input
side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the
car's frame as a ground.
This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough,
there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to a
ground. This usually results in misfires and no end of frustrations.
B. AMMONAL:
AMMONAL IS A MIXTURE OF AMMONIUM NITRATE (A STRONG OXIDIZER) WITH
ALUMINUM
POWDER (THE 'FUEL' IN THIS CASE). I AM NOT SURE OF THE % COMPOSITION FOR
AMMON
AL, SO YOU MAY WANT TO EXPERIMENT A LITTLE USING SMALL AMOUNTS.
C. CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES:
1. A MIXTURE OF 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 3 PARTS TABLE SUGAR
(SUCROSE) BU
RNS FIERCELY AND BRIGHTLY (SIMILAR TO THE BURNING OF MAGNESIUM) WHEN 1
DROP OF
CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID IS PLACED ON IT. WHAT OCCURS IS THIS: WHEN THE
ACID
IS ADDED IT REACTS WITH THE POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO FORM CHLORINE DIOXIDE,
WHICH
EXPLODES ON FORMATION, BURNING THE SUGAR AS WELL.
2. USING VARIOUS CHEMICALS, I HAVE DEVELOPED A MIXTURE THAT WORKS VERY
WELL F
OR IMITATING VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. I HAVE GIVEN IT THE NAME 'MPG VOLCANITE'
(TM).
HERE IT IS: POTASSIUM CHLORATE + POTASSIUM PERCHLORATE + AMMONIUM
NITRATE + AM
MONIUM DICHROMATE + POTASSIUM NITRATE + SUGAR + SULFUR + IRON FILINGS +
CHARCOA
L + ZINC DUST + SOME COLORING AGENT. (SCARLET= STRONTIUM NITRATE, PURPLE=
IODIN
E CRYSTALS, YELLOW= SODIUM CHLORIDE, CRIMSON= CALCIUM CHLORIDE, ETC...).
3. SO, DO YOU THINK WATER PUTS OUT FIRES? IN THIS ONE, IT STARTS IT. MIXTURE:
AMMONIUM NITRATE + AMMONIUM CHLORIDE + IODINE + ZINC DUST. WHEN A DROP
OR TWO
OF WATER IS ADDED, THE AMMONIUM NITRATE FORMS NITRIC ACID WHICH REACTS
WITH THE
ZINC TO PRODUCE HYDROGEN AND HEAT. THE HEAT VAPORIZES THE IODINE (GIVING
OFF P
URPLE SMOKE) AND THE AMMONIUM CHLORIDE (BECOMES PURPLE WHEN MIXED
WITH IODINE V
APOR). IT ALSO MAY IGNITE THE HYDROGEN AND BEGIN BURNING.
AMMONIUM NITRATE: 8 GRAMS
AMMONIUM CHORIDE: 1 GRAM
ZINC DUST: 8 GRAMS
IODINE CRYSTALS: 1 GRAM
4. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE WHEN MIXED PRODUCES A PURPLE-
COLORED FL
AME IN 30 SECS-1 MIN. WORKS BEST IF THE POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE IS FINELY
GROUND
.
5. CALCIUM CARBIDE + WATER RELEASES ACETYLENE GAS (HIGHLY FLAMMABLE
GAS USED
IN BLOW TORCHES...)
II. THERMITE REACTION.
THE THERMITE REACTION IS USED IN WELDING, BECAUSE IT GENERATES MOLTEN
IRON AN
D TEMPERATURES OF 3500 C (6000F+). IT USES ONE OF THE PREVIOUS REACTIONS
THAT I
TALKED ABOUT TO START IT!
STARTER=POTASSIUM CHLORATE + SUGAR
MAIN PT.= IRON (III) OXIDE + ALUMINUM POWDER (325 MESH OR FINER)
PUT THE POTASSIUM CHLORARE + SUGAR AROUND AND ON TOP OF THE MAIN PT. TO
STA
RT THE REACTION, PLACE ONE DROP OF CONCENTRATED SULFURIC ACID ON TOP OF THE
STA
RTER MIXTURE. STEP BACK! THE RATIOS ARE: 3 PARTS IRON(III) OXIDE TO 1 PART
ALUM
INUM POWDER TO 1 PART POTASSIUM CHLORATE TO 1 PART SUGAR.
WHEN YOU FIRST DO IT, TRY 3G:1G:1G:1G!
ALSO, THERE IS AN ALTERNATIVE STARTER FOR THE THERMITE REACTION. THE
ALTERNATI
VE IS POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE + GLYCERINE. AMOUNTS: 55G IRON(III) OXIDE,
15G ALU
MINUM POWDER, 25G POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE, 6ML GLYCERINE.
III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES.
A. MERCURY(II) FULMINATE
TO PRODUCE MERCURY(II) FULMINATE, A VERY SENSITIVE SHOCK EXPLOSIVE, ONE
MIGHT ASSUME THAT IT COULD BE FORMED BY ADDING FULMINIC ACID TO MERCURY.
THIS IS
SOMEWHAT DIFFICULT SINCE FULMINIC ACID IS VERY UNSTABLE AND CANNOT BE
PURCHASE
D. I DID SOME RESEARCH AND FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE IT WITHOUT FULMINIC
ACID.
YOU ADD 2 PARTS NITRIC ACID TO 2 PARTS ALCOHOL TO 1 PART MERCURY. THIS IS
THEOR
ETICAL (I HAVE NOT YET TRIED IT) SO PLEASE, IF YOU TRY THIS, DO IT IN VERY* SMA
LL AMOUNTS AND TELL ME THE RESULTS.
1.quickie...
take organic pool chlorine and mix it with vegtable shortening and put it
someplace you don't like. it reacts by itself to produce a very noxious white
smoke and heat.
2.a pipe bomb (dangerous)
take a pipe crimp (closed at one end) and pack it 3/4 full of parafin. (or
any other semi-solid with about the samebasic chemical structure) poke a
number of holes through the length of the parafin. on top of this put a very
thin steel (or other metal of that sort) wafer, make double damn sure** that
it fits tightly all the way around. on top of this put some high concentration
hcl (or similar acid). close the top now, stand it on end (parafin end down),
and get the f*ck away. you should have about 2-5 minutes depending on the
thickness of the wafer. watch out for shrappnel.
3. snowball...
take ammonium iodide, flour, & water and form this into a snowball.
leave this 'snowball' somewhere where it will do neat stuff when it dries out.
(substituting some magnesium flash powder for some (not all) of that flour
helps things a bit.)
+-------------------------------------+
! H O W T O M A K E D R U G S !
+-------------------------------------+
IN NO WAY AM I RESPONSIBLE FOR FOR ANY INJURIES CAUSED BY THE USE/MISUSE
OF THESE DRUGS. YOU SHOULD TREAT THESE DRUGS LIKE ALCOHOL. USE THEM ONLY
AS
AN ADDED EXPERIENCE IN LIFE, RATHER THAN AN ESCAPE.
THESE RECIPES ARE ALL FOUND IN A BOOK WHICH HAS RELIABLE SOURCES. ALL
SHOULD
WORK IF MADE PROPERLY.
+-------------------------------------+
! MAKING L.S.D. IN YOUR OWN KITCHEN !
+-------------------------------------+
1] GRIND UP 150 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS OR BABY HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE
SEEDS.
2] IN 130 C.C. OF PETROLEUM ETHER SOAK THE SEEDS FOR 2 DAYS.
3] FILTER THE SOLUTION THROUGH A TIGHT SCREEN.
4] THROW AWAY LIQUID, AND ALLOW SEEDS MUSH TO DRY.
5] FOR 2 DAYS ALLOW THE MUSH TO SOAK IN 110 C.C. OF WOOD ALCOHOL.
6] FILTER THE SOLUTION AGAIN, SAVING THE LIQUID AND LABELING IT '1'
7] RESOAK THE MUCH IN 110 C.C. OF WOOK ALCOHOL FOR 2 DAYS.
8] FILTER AND THROW AWAY MUSH.
9] ADD LIQUID FROM THE SECOND SOAK TO THE LIQUID LABELED '1'.
10] POUR THE LIQUID INTO A COOKIE TRAY AND ALLOW IT TO EVAPORATE.
11] WHEN ALL LIQUID HAS EVAPORATED, A YELLOW GUM REMAINS. THIS SHOULD
BE SCRAPED AND PUT IN CAPSULES.
30 GRAMS OF MORNING GLORY SEEDS
- OR -
15 HAWAIIAN WOOD ROSE SEEDS
- EQUALS -
ONE TRIP
** NOTE ** MANY COMPANIES HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO COAT THIER SEEDS WITH TOXIN.
ORDER SEEDS FROM A WHOLESALER.
+-------------------------------------+
! OTHER VARIOUS LEGAL & ILLEGAL DRUGS !
+-------------------------------------+
--> BANANDINE (MADE FROM BANANA!)
BANANAS DO CONTAIN A SMALL QUANTITY OF A MILD SHORT LASTING PSYCHODELIC
DRUG.
THERE ARE BETTER WAYS OF GETTING HIGH BUT THE GREAT ADVANTAGE OF THIS IS
THAT
BANANAS AE LEGAL (OF COURSE!)
1] OBTAIN 15 LBS OF RIPE YELLOW BANANAS
2] PEEL THEM ALL, EAT THE CHOW, KEEP THE PEELS.
3] WITH A SHARP KNIFE, SCRAPE OFF THE INSIDES OF THE PEELINGS, AND SAVE
THE SCRAPED MATERIAL.
4] PUT ALL SCRAPED MATERIAL IN A LARGE POT AND ADD WATER. BOIL FOR THREE
TO FOUR HOURS UNTIL IT HAS ATTAINED A SOLID PASTE.
5] SPREAD THIS PASTE ON COOKIE SHEETS AND DRY IN OVEN FOR ABOUT 20 MIN.
TO A HALF AN HOUR. THIS WILL RESULT IN A FINE BLACK POWDER
ROLL IT UP AND SMOKE ABOUT 3-4 OF THOSE DUDES
--> COUGH SYRUP? (SURE, WHY NOT?)
MIX ROBOTUSSION A-C WITH AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF GINGER ALE AND DRINK. NOTE
THAT YOU CAN OVERDOSE ON THIS ONE!
--> GLUE...YUCK!
PUT HALF A TUBE OF AIRPLANE GLUE ON ANY (I MEAN, IN ANY) PLASTIC BAG AND
SNIFF
IT. IT'S REALLY GROSS BUT SOME PEOPLE REALLY GET INTO IT..
--> HEROINE
DON'T WASTE YOUR LIFE ON IT...
--> PEANUTS!
1] OBTAIN A POUND OF PEANUTS.
2] SHELL THEM, SAVING THE SKINS AND DISCARDING THE SHELLS.
3] PORK OUT ON THE NUTS WHILE WATCHING DR. WHO ONE NIGHT.
4] GRIND UP THE SKINS, ROLL THEM, SMOKE THEM.
--> TOAD SKINS? YOU'RE CRAZY!!
1] COLLECT 5-10 TOADS
2] KILL THEM AS PAINLESSLY AS POSSIBLE AND SKIN THEM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!
3] ALLOW SKINS TO DRY ON THE FRIDGE FOR 4 TO 5 DAYS, OR UNTI THEY ARE
BRITTLE.
4] CRUSH INTO A POWDER AND SMOKE. DUE TO THE BAD TASTE, MIX IT WITH MINT
OR SOMETHING ELSE.
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE THESE DRUGS SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR AN
ADDITIONAL
EXPERIENCE IN LIFE. DO NOT USE THEM AS AN ESCAPE, OR JUST FOR THE HELL OF
IT! SEE YA, AND HAVE FUN??!!..??!!..
**********************************
* T R I P W I R E S *
**********************************
Well first of all I reccommend that you read the file on my board
about landmines... If you can't then here is the conecpt. You can use an
m-80,h-100, blockbuster or any other type of elxplose that will light with
a fuse. Now the way this works is if you have a 9volt batery, from a
radio ctlred car or what ever and get either a solor igniter (preferably)
or some steel wool you can create a remote ignition system. What you
do it set up a schematic like this.
------------------>+ batery
steel || ->- batery
wool || /
:==:--- <--fuse \
|| /
---- spst switch--\
So when the switch is on the currnet will flow through the steel wool or
igniter and heat up causing the fuse to light.
Note: For use with steel wool try it first and get a really thin
peice of wire and pump the current through it to make sure it will heat
up to light the explosive.
Now the thing to do is plant your explosive whereever you want it to
be but bury it and cover the wires obviously... Now take a this wire
fishing line is good about 20 lb. test and tie one end of the wire
to a secure object. Have your switch secured to seomthing to and make a
loop on the other end on the line. Put the loop around the switch such
that when pulled it will pull the switch and set off the explosive.
to ignite the explosive... The thing to do is to experiment with this
and find your best method... Let me know on any good kills, or new
techniques... On my board...
***************************************
* *
* Revenge: Don't get mad - Get even *
* *
* subtitled: Fun Things To Do *
***************************************
This isn't a death and Destruction file. I'm not telling losers how to cause
thermite reactions in chemistry class or make neeto pipe bombs to blow up that
guy who keeps bugging you.
This is from a book by George Hayduke. It describes a variety of ways to get
back at people who cause you distress. The book has contains a lot of tips on
causing expensive damage to "marks". Well, I picked the good ones. Ones that
don't cause a lot of expense, in currency that is. Well, I hope you enjoy.
Get back at the losers using the system. Sort of like piracy and phreaking.
***************************************
In a car with automatic transmission, switch the #1 and #8 wires on the
distributer cap. This will allegedly allow the car to operate in Neutral and
Park, but the engine mysteriously dies in Drive.
Castor Oil squirted into the tailpipe of a car, will cause a large amount of
smoke. Just the thing to help nervous drivers.
If you can get a bank account number for a person, truly wonderful things can
happen. Depositing one penny every day can get the employees very pissed.
It happens that given a few hundred wanted posters, one will look like you. OR
anybody else you can imagine. Close anyway. Think of all the bounty hunters
just waiting to claim their reward.
Place an ad in a paper for Male Secretarys only. $11 an hour, must be
physically attractive, gentle, and other related social traits. This is for
anybody who has an office. Give the time to show up one half hour before
the normal opening hour. For example, if the office opens at 9:00, put the time
to be 8:30. All these faggots will show up and start bitching at each other and
your loser.
Run an ad in the local paper with the following message.
"I need all used christmas trees. Please leave them on my lawn, and I'll pay
$5 for each one." then leave the losers address. The paper will take your $
and print the ad without thinking.
If you know the guy is going to throw a party, arrange for him to find out that
somebody was going to crash his party, dressed up like cops. Then call the cops
telling them of a real rowdy party going on.
If your college uses computers to handle admissions, try this. Fill out course
withdrawl forms in the losers name. Then enter them, they probably won't check.
The guy will go the entire block unknowing, then when grades are posted.
"Where are mine?" "Why didn't I get grades?"
Call your colleges administration, tell them you are the undertaker of your
losers hometown. He just died, please take him off your records, records will
follow. Then call the parents. He just died in a fraternity accident. This will
work better if the guy decides to skip a week or so of classes.
Instead of credit card fraud, just call up the company and tell them that you
just lost your cards. You name? Why it's (insert loser)
If you want, advertise the losers phone number as a Dial A Joke. For bigots,
Dial A Black, etc.
If you dislike a fast food place with a drive thru, try this. Order everything
you can think of. Then just don't go to the window. Do it during dinner hours.
Or, order a normal sized meal, but with extra helpings of mustard. Then the
next car will try the food, then freak out at the joint.
Garage door openers often have dip switches that can be changed to other
combinations. The cheaper the model, the better. Sears sells just the unit.
Say you broke yours or something. Then change the settings.
Wax crayons tossed into a wash do wonders to whites or anything else.
There is a whole section of phun things to do with a phone.
Call in a bomb threat to a school or something, then leave the handset offhook.
Of course, do this only at the losers house. Someone will visit.
Call Ma Bell, and report that your loser is using Blue Boxes. Tell them it is
your civic duty... Don't do this to someone who knows what they are though.
The phone co doesn't believe in innocence.
Ads placed in papers saying that (insert loser) will sell YOU! the plans to a
device enabling inexpensive calls. Mention that you keep no records.
If you are getting back at somebody with a multi-line system, this is good.
Place a large magnet where the line comes in. When one phone rings, they all do
If you can get a private minute with your marks phone, and the handset is
modular, cover the handset plug with clear nail polish. The phone rings, then
its unlimited "Hello?" "Hello?"
Remove the pins from all but one of the hinges of a front door of a business.
The door will work fine, for a while, then fall off. People start screaming.
Add luminescent paint into the cans of someone who is painting their fence.
Then, at night, it glows.
Get some copper paint and paint a small line across the insulator of a spark
plug in a car. They'll never find it.
If your loser gets a parking ticket, get it before he sees it. Then get a stamp
flicking the cops off. Send it in with no money.
If you dislike a pet hater, here's one.
Advertise that you(the loser) wuold like to buy all unwanted strays. $10 for
each one. Then call the SPCA, telling them that the loser wants the animals to
conduct black masses and pagan rites.
Laxatives slipped into dogfood does wonders.
Or better yet, toss some normal meat into the dog-owners yard. Then call him
up(in a disguised voice) and tell him you saw a suspicious person hanging
around the yard....
Mail a letter to the Chief Executive detailing the sexual acts you(the loser)
would like to commit, the Secret Service investigates this with no humor.
PA systems in department stores are great. Just walk up to a deserted unit,
look around, then deliver the most disgusting statement you can think of.
Call about thirty people, telling them they just won a sweepstakes. Answer the
questions, no obligation, it's just to show how generous people are. Then give
the losers phone number to call for more info.
Remember two things, hot metal and hot glass do not look different from cool.
(as long as it's not too hot)
Western Telegram has a check on everything going through. Certain key words
trip alarms. Guns, Drugs, Sex, Terrorist, etc all ring bells. Have fun
(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)
Car Thrashing
(*-> -------------------------------------------------------------------- <-*)
There are many ways to thrash someones car. But they basicly fall under
2 topics. These are, 1 to just fuck it up and 2, to distroy it. As long
as your at it don't for get to steal the stero & speakers.
The following are type 1 tricks to pull of on someones car.
Sweet-Gas: This involves taking the gas cap off of you victums car. If it
--------- is a locking cap break it off. Or you might pry it off, resort to
"Jocky Boxin" by Mr. Zeek if un fimiler with these tecniqes. Once you have
the gas cap off pour 4 or 5 pounds of white sugar in there gas tank. Now
when the start there car up and drive away they will go about 2 miles or so
then the car will crap out and they will have to pay some $'s to get it fixed.
Sweet-Oil: In this one you open there hood and pour some honey in there oil
--------- spout. if yu have time you might remover the oil plug first and
drain some of the oil out. I have tried this one but wasn't around to see the
effects but I am sure that I did some damage.
Slow Air: Ok, sneak yp the victums car and poke a small hole some where
-------- in 2 of his/her tires. They only have 1 spare. Now if the hole is
small but there then there tire will go flat some where on the road. You
could slice the tire so this is blows out on the road wih a rasor blade.
Cut a long and fairly deep (don't cut a hole) and peel a little bit of the
rubber back and cut that off. Now very soon there tires will go flat or a
possible blow out at a high speed if your lucky.
Vanishing Paint: Spead a little gas or paint thiner on the victums car
--------------- and this will make his paint run and fade. Vodca will eat
the paint off and so will a little 190. Eggs work great on pain if they
sit there long enough.
Key Paint: Run you car keys/can opener along there car and scrach a long
--------- strip off. It'll really piss 'em off and everyone can see it.
All-Lock: You go up to the dudes car, right. And then super glue the
-------- the door lock and door handle where the car can't be opened.
Loose Wheel: Losen the lugs on you victums tires so that they will soon
----------- fall off. This can really fuck some one up if they are cruzing
when the tire falls off.
Ok, thats some of the begginer shit...now if your really out to get this dude
try some of these....
First, pause and take a bong hit...........
No name for this one. but where you pour oil into the engin, pour some
sand, this will scar the head and pushrodes and possible scrach the fuck out
of the cylinder.
Dual Nutral: This name sucks but pull the 10 bolt or what ever they have
----------- there off. (On the real wheels, in the middle of the axle) Now
throw some screws, blots, nuts and assorted things in there and replace
the cover. At this point you could chip some of the teeth off the gears.
Un-Midaser: Crawl under there car with a rachet and losen all the nuts
---------- on there exauset so that it hangs low and will fall off soon.
They will be in town and there exaust will fall off. This method also
works on tranys but is a little harder to get all bolts off, but the
harder you work the more you fuck them over.
Draino Bomb: (Idea from Baby Demon) Get a little plasistc orange thingy
----------- that you get from you local drugest. And fill this with liquid
draino. Now re-cap and place inside vicuum gas tank. When the gs easts
through the plasic...look out. this has not been tried by anyone that I
personly know. But what the well, your a terrorists
(*-> Another way is to get a ping-pong ball and cut a small hole in it, now
fill the ball up with liquid dranio and seal the hold with tape. Now drop
the ball in someone gas tank and n about 40secs...BOOM!
---------------------------------------
HOW TO MAKE A REALLY NICE PIPE BOMB OUT OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS.
UPLOADED BY THE GRAY MOUSER.....
1) GO TO YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND TELL THE GUY THAT IS HELPING YOU
THAT YOU WANT A PIECE OF STEEL PIPE ONE FOOT LONG. AND ALSO THAT YOU WANT
THE ENDS THREADED AND YOU ALSO WANT CAPS TO PUT ON THE END.
2) NOW GET AHOLD OF A BABYFOOD JAR. MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR WILL FIT DOWN
THE PIPE REAL EASY LIKE. FILL THE BABYJAR WITH EVERYDAY VINEGAR. MAKE
SURE THE TOP IS SCREWED ON REAL TIGHT. **IF IT IS LOOSE YOU WILL BLOW YOUR
HAND OFF**
3)NOW CAP ONE END OF YOUR PIPE WITH ONE OF THE CAPS THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE
PICKED UP WITH THE PIPE. IF YOU KNOW OF SOMEONE WITH A WIELDER, HAVE HIM
WIELD A BEAD AROUND THE THREADS AFTER YOU HAVE IT CAPPED.
4)PUT SOME SMALL SHARP ROCKS DOWN THE END OF THE PIPE AND THEN SLIDE THE
BABYJAR DOWN INSIDE SO THE GLASS END IS AGAINST THE LITTLE ROCKS. NOW
EMPTY A MEDIUM BOX OF ARM AND HAMMER BAKING SODA INTO THE PIPE. CAP THE
OTHER END OF THE PIPE AND IF YOU CAN WIELD IT, THEN GO FOR IT.
**BE FUCKING CAREFUL** YOU MIGHT BREAK THE JAR INSIDE AND YOU WON'T
KNOW THAT YOU BROKE IT UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR HAND FLY OFF!!!
5)NOW, WHEN YOU WANT TO BLOW SOMETHING UP, JUST SMACK THE END OF THE
PIPE
THAT SENDS THE JAR INSIDE DOWN AGAINST THE SMALL ROCKS. OH YEAH, SMACK IT
AGAINST SOME CONCREAT. THIS BREAKS THE JAR AND THE VINEGAR AND BAKING
SODA MIX TOGETHER AND BUILDS UP PRESSURE. WHEN IT GETS TO THE
CRITICAL POINT....WHAMMY!!!!
******IMPORTANT******
AFTER YOU HIT THE PIPE AGAINST THE GROUND, GET THE HELL RID OF IT!!!
TOSS IT INTO SOMEONES CAR OR SOMEWHERE. SOMETIMES. IT TAKES FIVE MINUTS
FOR
IT TO GO OFF, SOMETIMES TWO. BUT IT WILL GO OFF! TRUST ME!
I DID THIS WHEN I WAS LIVING IN ARIZONA. MY FREIND THAT TAUGHT ME
THIS WAS A DEMOLITIONS EXPERT FOR THE NAVY.
THE FIRST TIME I DID IT. WE TOSSED THE PIPE INTO AN OLD HOUSE AND IT BLEW
ALL FOUR WALLS OUT!! THE SECOND TIME WE DID IT, WE TOSSED IT INTO AN OLD
CAR. AND IT PHUKING BLEW ALL FOUR DOORS OFF AND THE ROOF THREE FEET INTO
THE AIR!!!!
WHEN WE BLEW UP THE HOUSE, WE WAITED FIVE MINUTS AND I THOUGHT THAT IT
WOULDN'T GO OFF. SO I CRAWLED OUT OF THE DITCH THAT WE WERE IN. WHAMMY!!
JUST THEN IT WENT OFF! IT THREW ME BACK FIVE FEET BACK INTO THE DITCH!
IF YOU FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS REAL CAREFULLY. THEN YOU WON'T GET HURT.
I WILL TALK TO YOU ALL LATER. AND TELL ME WHAT YOU HAVE BLOWN UP!!!
^___^
* *
^
--\ /--
"
XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX
Xx American Dynamite xX
XxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxXxX
Recipe:
Mix 170 parts tolulene with 100 parts acid. The acid made of 2 parts of 70%
nitric and 3 parts of 100% sulfuric. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this down for
30 min. and let it separate. Take the mononitrotolulene and mix 100 part of it
with 215 parts of acid. This acid is 1 part pure nitric and 2 parts pure
sulfuric. Keep the temperature at 60- 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.
Raise temp to 90-100 and stir for 30 min. The dinitrotoluene is separated and
mix 100 parts of this stuff with 225 parts of 20% oleum which is 100% sulfuric
with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 65 parts nitric acid. Heat at
95 degrees for 60 min. Then at 120 degrees for 90 min.
Separate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hot water. Purify the
powder by soaking it in benzyne.
Presto! American Dynamite!
============================
How to Make Ammonium Nitrate
============================
Some Militants who don't have much dynamite use ammonium nitrate. This
can be bought by anyone at $3.75 for and 80 pound bag. It is fertilizer.
Ammonium nitrate explodes at rates up to 14,000 feet per second. It is
roughly compared to dynamite having 60% nitro.
The fertilizer grade Militants use is mixed with motor oil at the ratio of
one pint of oil to 8-1/2 pounds of ammonium nitrate. This has to be detonated
with a stick of gelatin dynamite [I didn't say all was easy. Try to find
another file about that crap.].
Purified ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a number six dynamite cap.
The pure stuff can be bought at chemical supply houses or the fertilizer grade
can be purified with distilled wood alcohol.
Put several pounds of fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate in a pan. Pour in
enough wood alcohol (methanol) to cover the fertilizer. Then stir it until a
lot of it has dissolved. Next, let it set for a few minutes to allow the
impurities to settle to the bottom along with the undissolved ammonium nitrate.
Another pan is set on some pieces of dry ice for the next step. Dry ice
can be found in the business section of the phone book under "Dry Ice." Locker
companies will sell it to anyone, cheaply and in small amounts.
The dissolved ammonium nitrate is poured into the cold pan. This is done
carefully so as to leave the impurities and undissolved ammonium nitrate
behind.
The dry ice causes the purified ammonium nitrate to precipitate out of the
solution in crystals. When no more crystals are formed they are removed from
the alcohol.
The alcohol is then poured back into the other pan and stirred to dissolve
any ammonium nitrate left undissolved. After setting a few minutes the
solution is again poured off the dregs and the dregs are thrown away. When the
last batch of crystals is removed, the alcohol can be stored and reused.
The dry ice is simply frozen carbon dioxide and its fumes are harmless
unless they are enough to replace the air. Don't handle the dry ice with your
bare hands [unless you are into pulling your skin off to the bone] as its cold
will cause blisters.
In order for pure ammonium nitrate to be detonated by a dynamite cap, it
must be very dry. Spread it out under a heat lamp ir in thte sun. When
completely dry, store it in tightly closed plastic bags.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
LAUGHING GAS
=-=-=-=-=-=-
As a special treat for the dopers in the audience and since ammonium
nitrate has been on your mind for a few minutes, you might as well learn how to
make laughing gas from ammonium nitrate.
Laughing gas was one of the earliest anaesthetics. After a little while
of inhaling the gas the patient became so happy [ain't life great?] he couldn't
keep from laughing. Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep.
Some do-it-yourselfers have died while taking laughing gas. This is
because they has generated it through plastic bags while their heads were
inside. They were simply suffocating but were too bombed out to realize it.
The trick is to have a plastic clothes bag in which you generate a lot of
the gas. Then you stop generating the gas and hold a small opening of the bag
under your nose, getting plenty of oxygen in the meantime. Then, Whee!
To make it you start with ammonium nitrate bought from a chemical supply
house or which you have purified with 100% rubbing or wood alcohol.
First, dissolve a quantity of ammonium nitrate in some water. Then you
evaporate the water over the stove, while stirring, until you have a heavy
brine. When nearly all the moisture is out it should solidify instantly when a
drop is put on an ice cold metal plate.
When ready, dump it all out on a very cold surface. After a while, break
it up and store it in a bottle.
A spoonful is put into a flask with a one-hole stopper, with a tube
leading into a big plastic bag. The flask is heated with an alcohol lamp.
When the temperature in the flask reaches 480 F the gas will generate. If
white fumes appear the heat should be lowered as the stuff explodes at 600 F.
When the bag is filled, stop the action and get ready to turn on.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BLACK POWDER:GRANDPAS RECIPE
IF YA WANT TO MAKE SOME LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS THEN YOU PICKED THE RIGHT
CHOICE!
FIRST OF ALL, THIS RECIPE WILL SHOW HOW TO MAKE BLACK POWDER IN A SIMPLE
AND
SAFE MANNER YET HAVE THE POWER TO MAKE SOME STRONG LOW EXPLOSIVE BOMBS.
NOTE: THE BELOW AMOUNTS WILL YIELD TWO POUNDS (THAT'S 900 GRAMS FOR YOU
METRIC
USERS) OF BLACK POWDER. HOWEVER, ONLY THE RATIOS OF THE AMOUNTS OF
INGREDIENTS
ARE IMPORTANT. THUS, FOR TWICE AS MUCH BLACK POWDER, DOUBLE ALL
QUANTITIES
USED.
MATERIAL REQUIRED
-----------------
LARGE WOODEN STICK
CLOTH, 2 FT. SQ.
FLAT WINDOW SCREENING, 1 FT. SQ.
HEAT SOURCE
WATER, 3 CUPS
ALCOHOL, 5 PINTS (ANY KIND)
SULFER, POWDERED, 1/2 CUP (FLOWERS OF SULFER, AT A DRUG STORE)
WOOD CHARCOAL, POWDERED, 2 CUPS
POTASSIUM NITRATE, GRANULATD, 3 CUPS (SALTPETER, AT DRUG STORES)
2 BUCKETS, BOTH 2 GALLON, ONE MUST BE HEAT RESISTANT
PROCEDURE:
----------
1. PLACE ALCOHOL IN ONE OF THE BUCKETS.
2. PLACE POTASSIUM NITRATE, CHARCOAL, AND SULFUR IN THE HEAT RESISTANT
BUCKET.
ADD 1 CUP WATER AND MIX THOROUGHLY WITH WOODEN STICK UNTIL ALL
INGREDIENTS ARE
DISSOLVED.
3. ADD REMAINING WATER (2 CUPS) TO MIXTURE. PLACE BUCKET ON HEAT SOURCE
AND
STIR UNTIL SMALL BUBBLES BEGIN TO FORM.
CAUTION: DO NOT BOIL MIXTURE. BE SURE ALL MIXTURE STAYS WET. IF ANY
IS DRY, AS ON SIDES OF PAN, IT MAY IGNITE.
4. REMOVE BUCKET FROM HEAT AND POUR MIXTURE INTO ALCOHOL WHILE STIRRING
VIGOROUSLY.
5. LET ALCOHOL MIXTURE STAND ABOUT 5 MINUTES. STRAIN MIXTURE THROUGH
CLOTH TO OBTAIN BLACK POWDER. DISCARD LIQUID. WRAP CLOTH AROUND BLACK
POWDER
AND SQUEEZE TO REMOVE ALL EXCESS LIQUID.
6. PLACE SCREENING OVER DRY BUCKET. PLACE WORKABLE AMOUNT OF DAMP
POWDER ON
SCREEN AND GRANULATE BY RUBBING SOLID THROUGH SCREEN.
NOTE: IF GRANULATED PARTICLES APPEAR TO STICK TOGETHER AND CHANGE SHAPE,
RECOMBINE ENTIRE BATCH OF POWDER AND REPEAT STEPS 5 AND 6.
7. SPREAD GRANULATED BLACK POWDER ON FLAT DRY SURFACE SO THAT LAYER
ABOUT 1/2 INCH IS FORMED. ALLOW TO DRY. USE RADIATOR, OR DIRECT
SUNLIGHT. THIS SHOULD BE DRIED AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, PREFERABLY IN ONE
HOUR. THE LONGER THE DRYING PERIOD, THE LESS EFFECTIVE THE BLACK POWDER.
CAUTION: REMOVE FROM HEAT AS SOON AS GRANULES ARE DRY. BLACK POWDER
IS NOW READY FOR USE!
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
How
to
Counterfeit
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
This article deals with how to make counterfeit money. Before reading
this article it would be a very good idea to get a book about photo-offset
printing, for that's how you'll have to print it. For someone who is
familiar with offset printing, printing money is a breeze. Real money is made
by a process called gravure. It involves carving out of a metal block (but I
don't think anyone can do that by hand-if you can, you should be on That's
Incredible!). When you are done (if you did everything correctly) you will
have a finished product nearly identical to real money, depending on your
printing skills. Well, let's get started!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
First I'd like to tell you briefly how offset printing works. It starts
by making negatives (kind of like when you take a picture with your camera).
Then you take the negatives and put them on a piece of masking material (
usually orange). Then you expose the STRIPPED negatives or FLATS to a
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The BURNED plates are then
developed with the proper developer chemical. These plates (one at a time of
course) are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press. The press to use
should be an 11 by 14 (or so) offset such as the 11 by 17 AB Dick 360. Then
the printing begins! To learn in detail how to do each of these steps you
should again get a book on the subject. The presswork takes some practice,
but you'll get the hang of it.
Ok, quit babbling on, Wave, and start the good stuff! By the way you can
pick up an 11 by 14 offset for about $500 if you shop around (or you can
** BORROW ** a press from your local Insty Prints at about 3:00 in the
morning!). First, like I said before, you need negatives. Make 2 negatives
of the portrait side of the bill and 1 of the back side. After developing
them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Get some opaque and,
on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green (the seal and the serial
numbers). Line that one up on the FLAT and leave about 1/2 inch from the top
of the flat. Then for the other portrait, touch out everything BUT the seal
and serial numbers. The back side doesn't require any retouching because it
is all one color. Now, make sure all the negatives are lined up right, or
REGISTERED, on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial
number, just shoot 1 neg. of the portrait side and cut out the serial number.
Cut out the old serial number from the flat and replace it with the new one.
Ok, now you have 3 flats, each represents a different color-black and 2
shades of green (which of course are made by mixing inks). Now you are ready
to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and mark 3 marks on it. These
marks must be 2 & 9/16 in. apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the
same thing to 2 more plates. Then take 1 of the flats and place it on the
plate, lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate-EXACTLY! Burn it,
move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you already burned.
Burn that and do the same thing 2 more times-moving the flat up one mark.
Then do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate).
Develope all 3 plates. You should have 4 images on each plate with an equal
space between each bill.
Roll the Presses!
---- --- -------
The paper you will need won't match exactly, but you can make it pretty
damn close (close enough for the cashier at K-Mart!). The paper to use should
have a 25% rag content. I have found that Disaperf computer paper works
great - that's the kind that you can barely see the perforation. Take this
paper (cut the pinfeed holes off first!) and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate
(the one with out the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load
black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a
lot of rejects. Then, while that's printing, mix the inks for the serial #'s
and the back side. You'll need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial # ink. You need to add black to back side. Experiment till you get
it right. Clean the press and print the other side. Now you have the bill
wioth no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number,
make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter
Now you have a lot of money, except there is still one problemo - the paper
is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups hot water, 4
tea bags, and about 16-20 drops of green food coloring (experiment). Dip
one of the bills in and compare it to a brand new REAL bill. Make the neces-
sary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Then it is a good idea to make them
look used. Wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc. Congratulations!
You're rich!
Sodium Chlorate Formulas
------------------------
Sodium Chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate,and in most cases can be a
substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium
chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in
blowtorches and you can get about 3lbs for about $6.00.
Rocket Fuel
-----------
6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance)
----------------------------------
50% sodium chlorate
35% rubber cement ('One-Coat' (tm))
10% epoxy resin hardener
5% sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
Nitromethane formulas
---------------------
I thought that I might add this in since it's similar to Astrolite.
Nitromethane (CH3NO2)
specific gravity:1.139
flash point:95f
auto-ignite:785f
Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure.
Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats,
etc.
To be detonated with a #8 cap, add:
1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine
2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline
Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. Detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives
-------------------------------
2 parts nitromethane
5 parts ammonium nitrate (solid powder)
soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container.
This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitro-
glycerin, and has 30% more brilliance.
Getting others to Commit Suicide
Well, lately, there has been many Suicides lately. A little while ago, here in
beautiful NJ, 4 teenagers said their last rites and started the car up in the
garage. This brought a smile to my face, you see, the more people dead,
the better off you are in the game of life. When people our age die, that
means the rest of us have a better chance of getting into the college we want,
cause there is less of them to compete with. There are more jobs to have, and
maybe you might find one you like. There is more food and other material
products, and this keeps the price of everything down. Its just better for
the whole society. Who cares about the mourning family, they'll get over it,
as you know who says "another day, another death"... Death is a fact of life
for everyone, and the more dead, the better.
HOW YOU CAN HELP:
-----------------
Find somebody that looks (as follows) like this:
-Real Ugly, someone who needs to be put out of misery, and so we don't have to
look at them
-Real Quiet, these people usally have something wrong upstairs, they can't deal
with other people, they are no good to you anyway.
-Real Stupid, everybody knows someone like this, like IQ of 98, someone who can
be pursuaded easily into the act.
-Someone with parents that prod them, like high pressure parents, who tell
thier kids to do well in everything or die...
(this is the good one)
-Somebody who has tried committing suicide before, cause they are fucked up
allready and they are the easist to convince.
CONVINCING THEM:
----------------
Ok, find one of the above and try the first tactic, total harassment. Just rag
and rag and rag and rag on them, tell them their mother sucks black cock in
hell, send letters saying that they are illegitimate, saying that they are
drafted into the Marines.. Call them up and tell her mom that she does
Crack and she's pregnant. Get a guy that looks like a total scumbag biker
with chains and shit and tell her mom that he's ready to pick her up for
their orgy. Or if its a guy tell him 'yo maun, i got de stuff, wheres de
money??"... Just make their total life hell.
OR
Befriend them, get real close to them, tell them you love them, you want to
be with them forever (in hell). Get close to the parents too, act real nice,
kiss some ass, be a real goody 2 shoes, feel like part of the family.
Then make up some crisis you supposedly had at home, say that your dad is
gonna kick you outa the house if (you dont cut that hair)...sorry...
you dont get a job and pay for everything
you use. Say that he grounded you for 5732 days and you can't go anywhere.
Then lie to the other kid's parents and tell them something like your
(son) daughter's is hooked on drugs and get her in trouble. Then at
night tell the other party to meet you somewhere, like on a bridge, anywhere
that you can die easily. Then make her feel like shit and ask (demand) her
to go in a suicide jump together, go 1-2-3, she jumps you stay where you
are and laugh.
PACTS:
------
Suicide Pacts are the best way to get rid of alot of people at once. Pacts
usally consist of 2 to 6 people, (unlike my good friend Jim Jones who wiped out
over 300 with poisoned Kool-Aid), and are usally done in a painless way.
Try to find a bunch of depressed people and tell them to join your little
group that meets twice a week to 'talk' about everyones problems.
Bullshit with them for a week or two, show a few other ways out of depression
(which should'nt work) then tell them (strongly) about a easy way out,
convince them into a SUICIDE PACT. Probability is that if 2 or 3 agree with
it, the whole group will do it, and that's just dandy!.
PRE-ACT TACTICS:
----------------
Now since this person is never going to be around any more, and if you say
you are going with them, tell the other party to give you all their belongings
so you can 'give it to charity, someone who really needs it'. Of course all
the goods go to bank account and some good blow.
Also, if you play your cards right, you can take out a life insurance policy
on the person and make 10g's to 1 mil, depending on the company and how
stupid they are.
Or if you forgot about the pre-act tactics just go to the parents and say
'She would want me to have this' (a $2500 pioneer stereo rack system),
a few weeks after the death, and cry when you do it.
WAYS OF SUICIDE:
----------------
The folling is a list of many ways to get the person to commit suicide:
-Carbon Monoxide, as in automobile exhaust, a very painless way to die. You
just sit in the car, in a garage, and it feels like you are going to sleep.
-A Gun, also another painless way, point the gun at the temple (head), aim
on an angle towards the lower base of the skull, instant DEATH.
-Slitting of the Wrists, very stupid, painful at first, but eventually you go
into shock. This way of suicide has the highest failure rate due to people
chickening out, it lasts from 20 mins. to sometimes 3 hrs. not a good way.
If so do it vertically rather then going across, will give you a better chance.
-Jumping off a tall building, a good way, because 50% of the people that jump
DIE of fright before hitting the ground. Somewhat tramatic for the 4 seconds
you are in the air, but more or less, a good way.
-Jumping in front of a Bus, Train, or any Large vehicle, a 75% percent success
rate as long as your head hits againt the oncoming force quickly. People have
been mangled and lived through it, and you don't want that to happen, you
want to DIE REMEMBER??
-Overdose of Drugs, a somewhat lame way to go depending on the drug...
also you need to take the right amount due to if you take too much, you will
just throw it up and suffer for 24 hrs... not to much, not to little, you can
determine by the recomened doseage. Sleeping pills are probably the most
painless, you just pass out. Overdoses of drugs such as Acid,LSD,and other
phyco drug is another stupid way to go, and if you live through it you are
a vegetable for the rest of your fucking life.
Drowning- A bad way to go, due to suffication people who have lived through
a near drowing say "It fucking sucks" to put it in laymens terms, not
suggested.
Hanging- good if you do it right. In the old west they used a more or less
'painless' way of hanging. When they released the lever, your neck broke and
usally you couldnt feel anything anyway, and before you knew it, you we DEAD.
A relitivly good and graphic way to go.
Running your car off a cliff- Very stupid unless you have a high cliff or
mountain. People usally try to pull out at the last second, and end up
paralized for life. Not recommended.
Electricution- Not bad, as long you have a good current. Go to your local
power substation and ground yourself to something, and as soon as you touch
the ends of those big semi-condutors, you're history.
Poison- Same as drugs.
Stabbing yourself- Usally reserved for Sickos, a very painful way to die, and
you watch yourself bleed to death. Pretty beat way to go.
Drinking yourself to Death-Sounds fun, should try it sometime....but seriously,
probably not a bad way to go, get wasted, and die! Get grain alcohol,
199 proof, good shit.
Well, im probably missing like hundreds of more ways, but this file is
just to get you started in the game of life. Good luck, and keep track
of your results.
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
HOW TO BLOW UP A CAR: A different way
_____________________________________________________________________________
_
There are times in a man's life when he gets mad at someone. And then
there are times when he gets REAL mad at someone. These are the times for
vengence. And what better way to get back at someone than damaging his/her
car. The thing which s/he has saved up for, worked hard for, and paid for.
Yes!!! This is the item which you must attack, for most of the time, it is
parked outside, easily accesible at night and very important to the asshole
you want to annoy. The method I will describe is relatively easy and safe to
set up, but very effective in causing damage. The method of destruction will
be explosion. The explosive device is already inside the car, factory
installed just for you to use. It is the standard 12 volt car battery.
Let's look at the princleple behind the exploding battery:
you are by now familiar with the theory of how batteries work, and if you
aren't, your probably too young to be thinking of these sorts of things.
Anyway, within the battery, is not only a current flowing from positive to
negative (actually, it is from negative to positive, but that's another
story), but also a small internal resistance. The resistance inside the
battery is in the order of magnitude of roughly .0024 OHM, an amount so small,
it is usually ignored. But, that is for normal operation of the battery. The
case we're interrested in is for the closed circuit of the battery by itself.
For a closed circuit, the internal resistance becomes a big deal, and the
following holds true:
(voltage) divided by (resistance) equals (current)
or
V/R=I
let's calculate
12volt/.0024 ohm = 5000 amps
Amazing!!!!! by causing a short circuit (closed circuit), the battery produces
5000 amps of current running through that little bugger. However, this
current is short lived, and the battery cannot handle this capacity for long,
so therefore the battery explodes. It explodes with a rather large force,
causing considerable damage from the pressure, flames, and hurling lead. All
these goodies combined with the volatile liquids hidden inside the engine will
cause the vehicle to add another member to the big junk yard in the sky.
Great!! now we know how to make the car blow up, but we don't want to go up
with hte car, so what we need is a triggering device. one can go from the
simple to elaborate, by incorporating sophisticated devices such as radio
transmitters, but for our purposes, we will opt for a simple timer and relay
device.
First, we will need some heavy cable, capable of handling the massive current
without melting, then we will need a relay also able to cope with large
currents. Next, we need a timer which will count down the seconds to our
triuphant vengance. And finally, a small battery to run the relay (the
small battery will run both the relay and the timer if you are using a digital
timer).
Now: Connect the small battery to the timer, the timer to the relay, and the
relay to the car battery. Connect the heavy duty relay to the the car battery
with the heavy cable. There you have it!!!!
__________________
small batt / ____ _|
_____ _________________ ______/ / _||________||_
| |___| | | \_______/ / | CAR |
| |___| ___|TIMER|___|relay| / | BATTERY |
| / | | |_____| / |______________|
|____________/ |_____| \_______/
remember, tinkering with other people's property is a no-no, and officer
friendly might get ugly with you if he sees you doing this, so be forewarned.
Also, car batteries are dangerous to play with, and if handled improperly,
may explode unintentionally, causing the concentrated acid to spray in your
face, making you look like the elephant man. so don't come crying to me when
something happens, cause i'll just laugh at you and possibly urinate over you
if you rub me the wrong way.
MERCURY BATTERY BOMB!
---------------------
Materials:
1 Mercury Battery (1.5 or 1.4 V Hearing Aid)
1 working lamp with on/off switch
Procedures:
1. Turn the lamp switch on to see if lite-bulb light up.
2. If it works, leave the switch on and unplug the cord
3. Unscrew the bulb (Dont touch the hot-spot!)
4. Place 1 Mercury Battery in the socket and make sure that
it is touching the Hot-spot contact.
5. Move any object or furniture - Why? There may be sparx given off!
6. Now your favorite part, stand back and plug in cord in the socket.
7. And you will have fun!! Like Real Party!!!
How to make a Milk Carton Bomb
written by XTX-101
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A milk carton bomb is relitively simple and safe. It's only purpose it to
create a loud noise.
The ingredients needed to make this are few and easy to aquire. You will need
a plastic milk carton, lighter fluid(type used in cigarette lighters), a piece
of paper, and a pair of chopsticks. If you can not obtain chop sticks, it's
okay to substitute them with something that can hold the paper and is long
enough so that you won't be harmed by the flames.
After aquiring all of the ingredients, you can now start to make the bomb.
The procedure is easy. First, puncture a hole at the bottom of the milk carton
with a screw driver or equivalent. Next fill one-fourth of the milk carton with
lighter fluid. Place the milk carton in a fairly large area outisde. Hold a
piece of paper between the chopsticks and light the paper with a match.
Cautiously place the lighted paper under the hole of the carton and BOOM!
You have your loud explosion with little damage to the surrounding area. It
would be a good idea to have some water handy to extinguish any flames.
Be careful when doing this and have fun.
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
][/////////REAL/PIPE/BOMBS//////////][
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
STUFF YOU'LL NEED:
------------------
AN 8 INCH SECTION OF PVC CONDUIT 1" IN DIAMETER
2 PIPE CAPS (THAT WILL FIT THE PVC)
SOME SORT OF PROPELLANT
SOME GREEN WATERPROOF FUSE
A TUBE OF FORMA-GASKET, OR SOME SORT OF
SEALANT
A HOT GLUE GUN
A DRILL WITH A SMALL BIT
ASSEMBLY:
---------
PUT ONE OF THE CAPS ON THE PVC, SEAL IT, AND LET IT DRY. FILL THE PIPE
HALFWAY
FULL WITH YOUR PROPELLANT HOLD ONE END OF THE FUSE WHILE FILLING THE PIPE
THE
REST OF THE WAY WITH THE PROPELLANT. THE PIPE SHOULD NOW BE FULL OF THE
PROPELLANT UP TO 1/3 INCH FROM THE TOP OF THE PVC. FILL IT THE REST OF THE
WAY
WITH HOT GLUE, AND LET IT COOL. DRILL A SMALL HOL IN THE REMAINING PIPE
CAP, AND PUT IT ON THE PVC MAKE SURE YOU HAVE RUN THE FUSE THROUGH THE
SMALL
HOLE! NOW, SEAL THE CAP ON THE PIPE, AND SEAL THE SMALL HOLE AROUND THE
FUSE
HOLE.
YOU NOW HAVE A WORKING PIPE BOMB WHICH IS ROUGHLY THE EQUIVALENT OF 1
STICK OF
TNT. HOW YOU USE IT IS UP TO YOU.
1) What is Anarchy?
Anarchy can be taken technically (one who promotes the downfall of
governments) or as a number of other definitions (One who is
knowledgeable of the arts of destruction, One who uses the arts of
destruction sparingly to his advantage, One who likes to see things
blown to Bufu, Egypt). This manual is to train the people who fall
under the category of "One who uses the arts of destruction
sparingly and to his advantage" and also "One who likes to see things
blown to Bufo, Egypt". More on these views later. If you are one who
plots the destruction of governments, just abort this download now, and
go to your room and hold your breath, because it isn't going to happen.
Those of you who want to know how to do these type of things in case of
nuclear war, go ahead and read, and in fact, dump this out to your
printer and memorize it, you seem like the kind of person who would do
these type of things.
2) What are some do's and don'ts of anarchy?
Ok, First of all, an anarchist has to have a clear mind. Use or ingest
nothing that would dull your reflexes or cloud your thoughts. That means,
No "bongs" (for serious anarchy anyway) and no booze (at least for the
few nights before an anarchy raid). If you do heavy drugs, just abort now
and do some more, because i dont want any beefed up junkies trying to
blow up my house (I would probably be able to destroy them anyway).
"Bongs" are what many anarchists consider good use of their free time. I
condemn that practice, but if you can refrain from over-usage, It is
ok if you go on reading.
As you can see, you may have to make a few sacrifices for anarchy. But its
for your own good (so you dont blow up yourself) and for others (dont kill
innocent people, get the guys who deserve it). However, many future
anarchists may read this and decide never to start such "habits" at all.
All the better. One thing i find detestable in a lot of neo-anarchists is
their tendancies to brag and to be impatient. Anarchy (if thats the right word
at all for us type of people, more in a future volume) requires a lot of
preparations, which can lead to a lot of fun (for you and your friends),
or just plain survival. Never be impatient, always be cool (even when you
have state police chasing you down free-ways doing 90mph). If you take the
"cool" silent attitude, you'll be good...damn good (sounds corny doesn't
it?).
One thing that baffles me is how some very successful anarchists get away
with the stuff they do. Diamond Dave Letterman writes files all the time
(and im sure is proud of it) and doesnt strike me as the most rational
person in the world, but damn, is he good (so i hear anyways). I wouldn't
suggest you try his approach to life until you have practiced the ways of
the anarchist.
One more thing that separates the real anarchists from the guys who just
buy fireworks and blow it up and call theirselves anarchists, is brains.
You should be getting good grades in school, and not be getting into any
trouble (that is, before you start anarchy). The real anarchists have
this, and they take their time with details, but moving swift and silently
when it counts.
I suggest you buy some dark clothes, maybe a ski mask, get repairs on your car
(if you have one, make sure its fast) and get money together (for bail). Most
of you are going to stop doing most of the experiments, and you probably wont
need this stuff, but if you intend on doing common anarchy around the
neighborhood for practice, get the dark suit. If you are going to go farther,
it means you are probably serious about anarchy (or crazy, dead, or both), and
you'll probably need a car (not necessarily though).
Oh yes, I forgot to mention one of the most important requirements for an
anarchist: Physical fitness. Start today by lifting weights (and losing
some if you need to). You have to have strong legs to run, so start
jogging, and if you want to go real far, get training in weapons and the
martial arts. You aren't always going to have a weapon (not common), so I
opt for the martial arts first. Make sure you get your weapons training on
your own or from a friend, because if you take a weapons course, consider
yourself plastered if they ever find out that you took their course.
[ ] Acetone Peroxide Explosive
This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a
detonater.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleach, Drug Stores
and Hair supply Stores
Acetone Hardware Stores and Drug
Stores
Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid
boiled until white fumes
appear.
Eye Dropper or Syringe w/ glass tube
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml)
Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C)
Glass Containers
Large Pan
Ice and Salt
Water
Paper Towels
All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your
own purposes.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container
and mix thoroughly.
2) Cool it by plaicing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and
water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celcius.
3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated ulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by
drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the
the temperature between 5-10 degrees celcius. If the temperature rises
don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then
start adding it again.
4) Now that you got all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for
another 5 minutes.
5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath.
6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the
once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours.
7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar with a
rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water
over them, letting the water rinse the crystals and filter down through the
paper towel into the jar.
8) Select a container and allow them to dry.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonater
that I have ever encountered. It works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing
with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as
Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it
refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effects it should
be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate
almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that
matter.
[ ] Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive
This one is a killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4.
However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonater.
Namely Acetone Peroxide detonaters can be used here or Mini-Compound Detonaters.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than Farm and Feed Stores
32% Nitrogen) or pure
Anhydrous Hydrazine Chemical Supply House
(Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!)
Large Mixing Container
*GLASS* stirring rod
Storage Container w/tight lid
Blasting Cap or Compound Detonater
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
*NOTE* mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the reaction
is very effervescant and can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the volume
of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of ammonia gas are realeased when these
two are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Pour into the container the an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the
amount of explosive required.
2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to the
container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly), and then add
more.
3) Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves
into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount of ammonium
nitrate left over.
4) Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than any
military explosive.
5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 mesh
or finer)
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
This mixture has unique absorbtion and retention properties, and can be
poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine. This type of land mine is
totally disquised and cannot be noticed, and all you need to do is bury a
compound detonater in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc...
This type of land mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of
rain etc... It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb.
[ ] RDX Explosive
The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to make RDX
was so shabby and lame it was probably written by an eight year old mental
patient. So here is mine easy! Straightforward! Comphrehendible!
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Hexamethylenetetramine (Hexamin) Drug stores under the names
Hexamin, Urotropine, and
Methenamine
Strong Nitric Acid Chemical Supply House or
some Hardware stores
Acetone Drug Stores and Hardware
Stores
Scale with gram accuracy
Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups
Thermometer 20-100 degrees celcius or 68-212
degrees farenheit
Several large quart canning jars
Two large basins or bowls made of metal or
some other heatable metal
Paper Towels
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning jar
and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees celcius (68-86 F)
by putting the jar in a basin of cold water.
2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the temperature
between your basins of hot and cold water.
3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamine. Then
start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute
time period. All the while maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30
degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins.
4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55
degrees celcius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then
maintain this temperature for about ten minutes.
5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin
of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees celcius (68 F). Now when the
solution reaches 20 degrees celcius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and
white salt will appear.
6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter the
Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another
jar.
7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of
fresh cold water and a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid.
Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again.
8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar
2/3 full of acetone and heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to
it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone.
9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and
let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again into it's
salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel around anothr jar and
rinse it with cold water the same way you did before. Now you have the
finished product roguhly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX.
10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in a jar with a air tight
lid for future use. Seeing that RDX does not lose it's effectiveness for
months.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes to
make detonaters. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for making
detonaters inwhich RDX will be used along with other explosives before
mentioned. RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as an
explosive by itself. It is also commonly refered to as Clyclonite.
[ ] Mini-Compound Detonater's
This is basically a tutorial in making detonaters, and there are a few
rules, that I would like each and every one of you to follow. Making detonaters
is very very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonaters is for them to
be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the detonaters I am
telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on a
larger scale.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or Hardware
tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These Stores
tubes must also be closed at one end.
A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX RDX Article 3 this
(amount depends on how many detonaters you intend to issue of "Anarchy
make) or PETN can be substituted here. Today" PETN is the
center filling of
detonating cords.
A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Acetone Peroxide
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. Article 1 this issue
of "Anarchy Today"
An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black
powder.
A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores
also please be safe considering a few of these
detonaters may detonate when being compressed, so
take the neccessary precautions such as safty glasses
etc...)
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
*NOTE* dirt or oil may sensitive the detonaters to an unsafe level so when
handling the primary ad secondary and ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a
bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your
shower on hot and leave it on!
1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell
casing before use. Then let the wax cool down.
2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then
*GENTLY and SLOWLY* insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly
and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully.
3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a
column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into
the 1 inch shell casing.
4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the
secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the
Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of
secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a
height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high.
5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal
the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use.
-=-=-=-=-
-DIAGRAM-
-=-=-=-=-
- ++++++
| |@@@@|
| |****|
| |****|
| |####|
1 INCH------< |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |####|
| |----|
- |====|
+-+-+
+Key+
+-+-+
@ = Black Powder (Ignition Charge)
* = Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge)
# = RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge)
- = Two drops of wax on Bottom
+ = Tape covering top
= = The bottom of shell casing
| = Sides of .22 Magnum Shell
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger
version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use
is for minature hand grenades and other small explosives. The next issue of
"Anarchy Today" will cover various things such as explosive candles, etc...
[ ] Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor
This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by either
concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a time
delay, which I will detail later.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Potassium Chlorate Drug Stores and chemical supply
houses
Sugar (Granulated) Grocery Store
Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)
Storage Container w/tight fitting lid
Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
Two flat boards (one large 36x36 and the other
small so it can be held in the hand).
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the large board and
rub with the other flatboard or a rolling pin until the particles
resemble granulated sugar.
2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then
add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container. Now
recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it has
a uniform color and consistency.
3) Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake
it up before use to re-mix any settled particles.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule and bury
the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. Depending on how many
gelatin capsules you use and their size depends on the delay. It can range from
20 minutes to and hour or more. This type of ignitor reaches a temperature of
3,200 degrees farenheit and can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be
compacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb.
[ ] Sulfur and Aluminum Igniter
This is more of a secondary ignitor for those tough to ignite
incendiaries such as thermite etc... It is relatively easy to make and safe to
handle so therefore it is an excellent ignitor, and it does not lose it's
effectiveness quickly.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Fine Aluminum Powder Paint Stores (Bronzing
Powder)
Sulfur Drug Stores
Measuring Container(Cup, tablespoon, etc...)
Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid
Storage Container w/tight fitting lid (airtight)
Two Flat Boards one hand size and the other 36x36
or a big board and a rolling pin
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Spread the sulfur out on the board and crush into a fine powder (dust)
2) Measure out 4 parts by volume of finely powdered sulfur to 1 part by
volume of aluminum powder. Now mix these two in the mixing container
by closing the lid and shaking it up for 4-5 minutes until a uniform
color and consistancy are achieved.
3) Store the igniter in a waterproof container until ready for use. Also
re-shake before use to re-mix and settled particles.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
This is mainly used to ignite thermite. Four spoonfuls of this
aluminum/sulfur igniter are added on top of the thermite, and one spoonful of
potassium chlorate/sugar igniter is added on top of that. Now when the
potassium Chlorate/sugar igniter is ignited it in turn ignites the
aluminum/sulfur igniter. This igniter reaches an incredible heat, and should
not be watched igniting without dark lensed protective eyewear, as it may cause
blindness.
[ ] HTH/Brake Fluid Incendiary
This is a very effective time delayed incendiary that anyone can make,
and get the materials too. It is simple and easy and inexpensive, so enjoy.
Also this incendiary bursts into flames when brake fluid comes in contact with
the Calcium Hypochlorite.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Sources
---- -------
Granular Calcium Hypochlorite 70% HTH swimming Swimming pool supply
pool purifier house or bleaching
agent
Brake Fluid Auto Parts Store
or Gas Station
Two Cans of *EQUAL* size
Tape
Nail or Small Drill
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Take your two cans and remove the contents, and then wash them out
thouroughly. Now drill or puncture a small hole in the bottom center
of one of the cans.
2) Now drill or puncture a series of small holes evenly spaced in the side
of the other can, and cover them with tape.
3) Now tape the top can (the can with one hole) on top of the other can
(the one with a lot of holes taped over)
4) Now place this set up in the center of a pile of Calcium Hypochlorite.
Now Depending on the delay time required remove the tape from over the
appropriate number of holes.
5) To start the delay just add brake fluid to the top can and let it start
to drip down.
-=-=-=-=-
-Diagram-
-=-=-=-=-
------------------<------Top Can
|________________|
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| <---------Brake Fluid
|| ||
||_______O<-----------Drip Hole
------------------
++++++++++++++++++
++++++++++++++++++<-------Tape bonding cans together
------------------
| |
| O |<------ O's are the delay holes
| |
|+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole
| |
| O |
&&&&&&| |&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&|+++++++O++++++++|<------Taped over hole
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&------------------&&&&&&&&&&&&
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& <----
-- &'s is the Calcium
Hypochlorite
[ ] Incendiary Timed Delay Moltov Cocktail
Please note that the detonating capsules used here will be refered to
most likely in a later issue, because they work excellently. Also this bomb
disperses flaming oil and gasoline quickly, so steer clear of it when it goes
off.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Potassium/Chlorate Sugar igniter "Anarchy Today" Issue 1
Article 5
Concentrated Sulfuric Acid Clear battery acid
boiled until white
fumes appear
Gelatin Capsules (sizes 0,00, and 000) Drug Store and
Veterinary Clinics
Lead Shot Gun Stores or Shotgun
Shells
Narrow Neck Bottles (i.e. Wine bottles etc...) Liquor Store or Garbage
Oil
Gasoline
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Empty out the contents of the gelatin capsules if any and separate
them. Now fill the smaller half of the capsule 1/4 full of lead shot.
Now fill the remaining space with the potassium chlorate/sugar igniter.
2) Now pack it down, and place the larger end cap on the packed
main capsule. Now set this aside for later use. Now repeat this
process until a number of capsules have been produced.
3) Store in a airtight container for future use.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
1) Now your ready to make the incendiary device. Fill your wine bottle
about 1/4 inch high with Sulfuric Acid, and then fill the remaining
space 3/4 full of a gasoline/oil mixture in a 1:1 ratio or half gas
and half oil (same thing).
2) Now to detonate drop in three or four of the previously prepared
capsules, and turn the bottle upside down. (The neck of the bottle
downward)
3) What this does is the capsules with the lead shot in them sink to the
neck of the bottle where the heavier Sulfuric Acid is concentrated.
Now in about 20 minutes the acid will eat through the capsules and a
white hot flame will explode the bottle dispersing the gasoline and oil
mixture.
4) For a prolonged time delay place the capsule inside a larger capsule.
[ ] Miniature Claymore Mine
This is devasting and should be used in malls or other heavily
trafficked areas. It has a kill range of 50 yards (half a football feild), and
is one of the best I have seen, and it's fun to watch too!
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Potassium Chlorate Drug Stores and Chemical
Supply Houses
Nitrobenzene Drug Stores (Oil of Mirbane)
and Chemical Supply Houses
Measuring Container (Cup, Tablespoon, etc...)
Double-Sided Adhesive Tape
Small Alnico 5 Horseshoe Magnets
Epoxy Resin
A Lot of 1/4 Inch Ball Bearings
Soap dishes consisting of two separate halves
That fit together with the bottom half and the
top half bevelled
Flat board 36x36 and another flat board or
Rolling Pin
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) First off crush the Potassium Chlorate between the two boards or with
the rolling pin until it is a very very very fine powder.
2) Fill the top half of the soap dish to a depth of 3/4 inch with 1/4 inch
diameter ball bearings held together with a light coating of epoxy
resin.
3) Now cut a hole in the bottom half and cover it with tape. The hole
should be big enough for you to pour the nitrobenzene into later and
big enough to fit a detonater into.
4) Now pack the bottom half tightly with Potassium Chlorate, very tightly
leaving no extra room.
5) Now tape the two halves together tightly, and your pretty much done.
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
1) When your ready to use your charge simply pour in the nitrobenzene.
The correct ratio is 1 part by volume of nitrobenzene to 4 parts
by volume of potassium chlorate. Now if you didn't read this through
and keep track of the amount of potassium chlorate you used, then you
fucked up and won't get optimum results.
2) Now allow the nitrobenzene to soak in for 4-6 minutes, and then insert
your electronically initiated or time fused detonater into the hole.
Now seal around the hole with epoxy resin
3) Now use the magnets and the tape to attach the charge 3 feet above the
ground with the ball bearing side facing outward.
4) Now you can either use an egg timer or a stepswitch (Underground
detonater activated by weight) or you can use the good old time fuse
running into a mini-compound detonater.
[ ] Shotgun Shell Impact Grenade
This is an excellent little toy, and can save your life. It not only
disperses crowds, but also legs, arms, feet, etc...
-=-=-=-=-=-
-MATERIALS-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Name Source
---- ------
Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene
Mini-Compound Detonater
12 Gauge Shotgun Shell Gunstore
Wood Dowel or Steel Bar 11/16' in Diameter Hardware Stores
and any length beyon 1/2'
Hacksaw
Drill with 1/4' bit
Pieces of Cloth 12' x 1/2'
Epoxy Resin
Electrical Tape
Steel Ball Bearing 3/8' in Diameter
-=-=-=-=-=-
-PROCEDURE-
-=-=-=-=-=-
1) Cut open or open up the front end of a 12 gauge shotgun shell, and
empty out the entire contents saving only the casing.
2) To ensure the mini detonater is centered use the hacksaw to cut a 1/2'
length of 11/16' steel bar or wooden dowel. Now drill a 1/4' diameter
hole in the center of the 1/2' long wood or metal cylinder.
3) After the guide has been prepared then glue it in place on the primer
inside the shotgun shell casing. *NOTE* do not get any glue on the
primer itself. Now place the minicompound detonater open side down in
the cylinder and glue it into place. Now fill the remaining space in
the shotshell with Potassium Chlorate ***CAREFULLY***. Now close off
the end with tape, and when ready to use simply pour in the
nitrobenzen activator.
4) After this is accomplished tape a 3/8' steel ball bearing over the
primer on the outside of the shell over the primer. Now tape the
cloth streamers around the upside of the shell casing to ensure
stability in flight and also helping it to land on the downside or
primer side.
5) Now tape nails around the shell with notches filed 1/4' apart all
along them.
-=-=-=-=-
-DIAGRAM-
-=-=-=-=-
\ / \ | / \
\/ \|/ /
|\ /\| |
\ \ / // /
\ \/ // /
\ \\||/
-------
|%%%%%%%|
|%%%%%%%|
|%%%%%%%|
|%%%%%%%|
|%%+++%%|
|%%+++%%|
|%%+++%%|
|%%+++%%|
|&&+++&&|
|&&+++&&|
---"---
\ O /
=====
+-+-+
+KEY+
+-+-+
+ = Mini Compound Detonater
& = Wood or Metal Holding Cylinder for Mini-Compound Detonater
= = Tape
O = Ball Bearing
% = Potassium Chlorate/Nitrobenzene High Explosive
\ |\/ = Cloth Streamers
" = Primer
-=-=-=-
-USES!-
-=-=-=-
1) Pour the nitrobenzene into the upside of the shell and then wait 3-4
minutes. Then to use simply throw at a target or group of people and
upon impact the grenade will detonate itself.
2) To use as a booby trap simply place it with the ball bearing side up
in the ground where someone will step on it. Minus the cloth streamers
or simply make the shell look the way it was before, and some poor
shithead will eventually fire it resulting in death. Seeing that the
barrel will most likely blow him apart.
[ ] Evading Bomb Squad Tactics
This article will deal with the modern methods used by police and
military bomb squad teams and how to overcome them. Most police forces have a
bomb squad or IED(Improvised Explosive Device)unit, but some rely on the army
EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) unit. This is done, because small local
police forces rarely have a need for a bomb squad or the funding to outrig
one with the necessary equipment. Well enough of the background on with the
article, in which I will outlay equipment and how to evade it.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Police Protection-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
As of the writing of this article the most widely used form of
protection is the Canadian Safeco body suits. These suits are made of kevlar
and ballistic material and basically protect the pig from shrapnel and shock
wave. However there are many design flaws in the suit, which I will outline.
(1) The officers hands must be exposed, because gloves would be too bulky to
maneuver, and hinder his sense of touch.
(2) The other design flaw is the suit weighs a little over 50 pounds, and
there is the constant problem of heat stroke etc...; Since the suit is
very hot.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Overcoming This Problem-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The solution here is quite simple, and the best option is to leave
the best option is to either...
(A) Put the bomb out in the direct sunlight if you live in a hot climate.
(A hot climate is temperatures in the 98-108 range.)
(B) Place the explosive device in a boiler room.
(C) Place it under a primary heating duct.
(D) Use your imagination your intelligent.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Disarming Robots!-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The police force recently has been employing robots in disarming
procedures. The most popular one is the Pedsco RMI a canadian robot that runs
on six pneumatic tires; It also has a camera and a claw all of which are
controlled remotely. These robots however are pretty much strictly limited to
large police forces, because of their cost. The design flaws in this are
obvious...
(1) It is like the game where you get the prize with the claw. Or in
other words it is difficult to operate, and is mainly used for moving
the explosive device into a bomb transporter.
(2) It only has one camera and one has to become extremely accustomed to
the new depth perception via the camera.
(3) They are almost never used in disarming procedures since they are too
jerky. They are used to move the explosive to a bomb transporter.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Overcoming This Problem-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
There are many different solutions, which can be applied here. I will
outline a few of the more interesting ones that won't readily come to mind.
(A) This is my personnel favorite employ multiple explosives, and
surround your bomb with minurature landmines, which will destroy the
disarming robot.
(B) Another is to employ a secondary detonator into your device which
is shock or sudden movement sensitive, so that if the operator of the
claws drops the explosive or jolts it, it will detonate.
(C) Another is to attach multiple detonators to the sides of the explosive
so that when the claws close in on the device it will detonate.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Portable X-rays-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Police have more often used portable x-ray units. These units are
called inspectors, and manufactured by golden. They run on their own
batteries and use polaroid x-ray film. These are most effective usually
since a relatively accurate x-ray can be procured in less than 20 seconds.
The obvious design flaws in the are as follows:
(1) Certain materials are not susceptible to x-ray such as lead.
(2) It takes a well trained person to interpret an x-ray correctly.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Overcoming This Problem-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
The ways of overcoming this are obvious, but I will outlay them here
for those of you whose minds are slow.
(A) Encasing the explosive device in lead or some other material which
will successfully evade the x-ray.
(B) Adding shit or miscellaneous metals inside the bomb to confuse the
person interpreting the x-ray.
-=-==-=-=-
-Dearmers-
-=-==-=-=-
What the fuck is a dearmer you ask? Well a dearmer is usually employed
by the bomb squad when it is apparent that device can be made docile by
destroying it's wiring.A dearmer is an electronically fired gun that shoots a
variety of projectiles at a high velocity into the explosive. The purpose of
this is to destroy the wiring rendering the explosive useless. They look like
miniature pipes, and can be fired remotely.There are a few design flaws here,
but less than before that can be manipulated to our advantage.
(1) They can't cut through steel.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Overcoming This Problem-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
(A) The solution here is to encase the wiring in some way to prevent
cutting.
(B) Another method for those of you who dare is to coat the wiring of the
device with a compound that will detonate from shock, and
will in turn detonate the explosive.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Bomb Transport Vehicles-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Yes, those oddly shaped vehicles that they carry away our explosives in.
Well this took quite a bit of research to find out all of the types, but here
it goes. The first type is the spherical transporter, round in shape it is
used when even a directed blast could cause injury, death, or destruction
i.e. in such areas as where there are tall buildings and a large populous.
The other type is either of one cylinder or multiple concentric cylinders
with spaces between them. The general purpose of these is to direct the blast
upward, so as not to cause injury or destruction. The explosive is
suspended in a net in the center of the cylinder. Most of the times these
are used to take the device to a safe area for detonation, but are designed
just in case the bomb goes KABOOM. Here there really aren't design flaws, but
there are ways to overcome his problem.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Overcoming This Problem-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
(A) First make your bombs (Unless the occasion calls for something
different) so that they direct the full force of the explosion in one
direction. A strong explosive device cannot be contained if it's
entire force is sent into one direction.
(B) Take advantage of the open cylinder transport vehicle, and direct the
force of the explosion downward assuring a hole in the street, and
two maimed or mortally wounded cops.
[ ] Impact Exploding Arrows
These are impact exploding arrows, and how to make them. These
babies are lethal, and explode on impact. The obvious advantage to these is
that their hit-kill ratio is extremely high, and they are silent (Until they
hit). Another obvious advantage is that most of the evidence is destroyed or
sprayed over a vast area. Any hit to the torso or head will prove fatal, and
most destructive. So on with it another lesson in pain.
-=-=-=-=-=-
-Materials-
-=-=-=-=-=-
Materials Source
--------- ------
Aluminum Hollow Shafted Arrow Sporting Goods Store
RDX Explosive
Mini-Compound Detonators (Different)
Epoxy Resin Hardware Store
Wooden Dowel That Fits Arrow Shaft Hardware Store
Drill with Needle Sized Bit Hardware Store
Needles Slightly Smaller than Bit Size Anywhere
-=-=-=-=-=-
-Procedure-
-=-=-=-=-=-
(1) Remove the arrow head from shaft, and drop 5 drops of epoxy resin in
the arrow shaft. Allow drying time according to the procedure
outlayed in the instructions on the glue.
(2) Now that the glue is dry start adding in the RDX explosive, and
loosely packing it down with the wooden dowel. Now continue this
process until RDX explosive is within reach of the top leaving enough
room to fit a mini-compound detonator and enough room to screw the
arrow tip on about 1 1/2 inches.
(3) Now Take the arrow tip (Not on the Shaft) and put it in a vise-grip,
and drill your needle sized hole. It might be easier to flatten the
tip then drill the hole to assure that it is centered. Now set this
aside for later use.
(4) Now make the mini-compound detonator, but differently this time make
it backwards using a .22 shell with primer intact (One that hasn't
been fired) Now put in you 1/8 an inch of gunpowder first, then
your 1/4 inch of acetone peroxide or mercury fulminate, then your
5/8 of an inch with RDX. However this time pack it very very
loosely with the ram, so as not to set off the primer and have it
explode in your face.
(5) Now set the mini compound detonator in the arrow shaft with the RDX
with the primer pointing upwards (Getting the Picture). Now pour a
little RDX around the edges of the .22 shell, and then using a FEW
drops of epoxy resin secure the mini-compound detonator in place, so
that it is PERFECTLY centered.
(6) Now screw the arrow tip back on the arrow, and place a needle in the
hole you drilled earlier. If the hole is too loose then the needle
will fall out, so stuff some paper around it. If the hole is too
tight the needle won't hit the primer and detonate the arrow, so
drill a little bigger hole.
-=-=-=-=-
-Diagram-
-=-=-=-=-
////////////
////////////
/--------------------------------------------------------------|
/=========%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
%%|
--
+!@@%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
%%%%%%|
\=========%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
%%|
\--------------------------------------------------------------|
\\\\\\\\\\\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\
-=-=-
-Key-
-=-=-
+ = Primer on .22 Shell
% = RDX Explosive
! = Gunpowder
@ = Either Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide
\ = Arrow Fins and Tip
/ = Arrow Fins and Tip
- = Side of Arrow and Needle
| = Back of Arrow
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Added Interjections-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This is one of the best things I have ever encountered, and has the
most potential for fun. The added weight however does effect the velocity of
the arrow, but not so much the accuracy as was thought before adequate
testing was done. Enjoy, and...
[ ] Guns, Bullets, and The Fine Art of
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Guns-Guns-Guns!-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
First off I will list the various types of calibers of weapons to
choose from, and the most feared sniper rifle of all and it's specifications.
My personnel favorite and the most feared weapon is the 7.62 ball nato rifle,
and in a moment I will demonstrate why. Although don't fret any weapon is
lethal hell here is an interesting fact for you. The longest verified sniper
kill was executed during the civil war (believe it or not) when a sniper
killed a general one mile away.
Pistols Muzzel Velocity m/sec Impact
Energy at 50m
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
9mm Lugar 338 47
.38 Smith and Wesson 185 16
.357 Magnum 439 101
Submachine-Gun
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
.45 Thomson 280 58
Rifles
-=-=-=
7.62 Ball Nato 855 380
5.56mm Armalite 990 173
Obviously you can now see how overrated the .357 magnum is the 7.62
Ball Nato is 3 times more powerful, and is also known to easily pierce light
armor. Also a special curved windscreen is employed to stop 5.56 and 7.62
ammo. Well enough bragging on my favorite rifle on with the specs and then
you choose your weapon.
Fabrique National Snipe Weapons
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
These wonderful people produce a 7.62mm sniper rifle with a removable
bipod. This weapon is accurate up to 600 meters away (If thats hard to
visualize picture 475 people lying toe to head). It comes standard with a
Zeiss Diavari D telescopic sight. It also features an adjustable strap and
variable butt length. This comes in handy when your intended victim takes
his time. This weapon is mainly used by Belgium police forces in
anti-terrorist operations however it can be bought in the U.S. The weapon
also holds 4 rounds with a fifth shell in the chamber.
McMillan M-82 and M-86 Sniper Weapons
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This is one of the local police weapons used for sniping however it
is one of the best ones on the market. The only drawback here is, it is bolt
action, and if you are a lousy shot your in trouble. However it comes from
the factory with a fiberglass stock, and a 24 inch, 1 in 12 twist stainless
steel barrel. It also comes with the ultra 10x-M1 scope, however to use this
weapon to it's full ability I suggest shopping around for a better scope, and
having it calibrated to at least 700 yards.
Garrand M1A
-=--=-=-=-=
The ultimate in the sniper rifles on the commercial market. The only
weapon that even comes close is the german made Springer, but that's too hard
to find. This weapon is accurate as hell with a 1000 yard+ range. It is a
heavy weapon, and this reduces the kick. It was primarily used by the
marines in Vietnam era. These weapons can be found in collectors stores i.e.
Collectors Firearms or bought through the NRA (National Rifle Association),
but if you buy through the NRA you tend to have a wait period of 6 months.
I highly recommend this weapon it is the cutting edge of the technological
age on the field of honor.
Where to Get Your Shit
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Weapons Scopes
-=-=-=- -=-=-=
G. McMillan & Co. Carl Zeiss, Inc.
21421 North 14th Avenue Box 2010
Suite B 1015 Commerace Street
Phoenix, AZ. St. Petersburg, Va.
85027 23803
Springfield Armoury
420 West Main St.
Genesco, IL. 61254
Target Systems Night Vision Suppressors
(Silencers)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-= -=-=-=-=-=-= =-=-=-=-=-=-
ATS (Duelatron) Litton Johnathan Ciener
12 Skillman Lane 1215 South 52nd St. 6850 Riveredge Dr.
St. Paul, MN. 55101 Tempe, AZ. 85281 Titusville, FL.
32780
Listen these people do not usually sell to the public, so write to
them for a catalog and say you are a police officer and want to buy
somethings for personnel use, but first call and ask if they sell to the
public.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Armor Piercing Bullets!-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Take your average bullet, and coat it in Teflon. Simple enough eh?
Well thats it, now what this bullet does instead of breaking apart is it
stays whole, and is capable of piercing through bullet proof vests at long
ranges, not to mention steel. Another method is to make your bullets out of
different materials like tungsten, steel, etc... However this article is not
going to go into how to cast bullets. Since there are many books on it in
various gun stores, etc....
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
-Exploding Destroyer-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This is my own version of the dum dum bullet. O.K. take your bullet,
and cut off the end and sand it down, so that it is flat. Now take a knife
and cut an asterisk (*) into the bullet. On impact this bullet will explode
and spray into about 15 pieces of shrapnel, and totally destroy it's target.
-=-=-==-=-=-
-Evil Eddie-
-=-=-==-=-=-
This is another of my bastard creations. Take a hollow point bullet,
and fill the hollow point with mercury. Now take a soldering iron, and drip
a drop of solder over the point to seal it in. Note: Sometimes it is
necessary to widen the hollow point, so the bullet will fill with mercury.
Now what this does is when the bullet is shot the mercury heats up and
expands, and rips apart the victim, and if it doesn't kill him with the first
shot the mercury gets into his blood and poisons him. This one is a sure
fire lethal shot!
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
-Poison Bullets-
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Now with these the poison is your preference, and you can either (A)
put the poison in the tip of a hollow point and seal it in, or (B) heat
poison over a regular or dum-dum bullet. The one that works the best is the
hollow point with poison sealed inside, and coated and heated on the outside.
Now you can either use cyanide or mercuric oxide works well. However there
are hundreds of other poisons to choose from like botulinis toxin, etc....
[ ] Elimination by Poisoning
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since the beginning of time, there have always been dickheads, assholes,
rapists, thieves, murderers, and the dog next door that bites the shit out
of each time you walk by. And since the beginning of these problems there
has always been the process of elimination. This file explains how to
kill the dog next door through the modern technique of poisoning.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------
| ETHYLENE GLYCOL |
-----------------
Ethylene Glycol is simply antifreeze such as Prestone, Zerex, etc. It has a
sweetish-like taste to it and can be easily concealed in a bowl of punch,
or someones softdrink. At a party or banquet, ethylene glycol can be
easily poured from a container such as a kool-aid pitcher into the party
punch. Be sure it is mixed with a package of kool-aid or something so that
you don't arouse any suspicion. The lethal dosage of this is about four
ounces and the good thing about ethylene glycol is that a person that
is dying from it simply appears to be drunk...
----------------------
| CARBON TETRACHLORIDE |
----------------------
Carbon Tetrachloride can be easily obtained from fire extinguishers or
grease cleaning fluids found in auto supply stores. Carbon Tetrachloride is
used in making phosgene gas which is highly lethal and was used in World War
I. The gas is made by heating carbon tetrachloride over a flame or hot plate.
It is only effective in a closed room. A good way to utilize this is to set a
pan full of it on a heater. People seeing it will just think its water often
placed on heaters to keep the air from being too dry. Carbon tetrachloride
has the smell of musty hay and will most likely be ignored or someone will
bring there can of lysol and spray the air with it.
----------
| NICOTINE |
----------
Nicotine is a highly lethal, horrifying poison. One drop of pure nicotine
has been known to kill in less than fifteen minutes. Its taste is easily
concealedd in sweet substances such as wine, soda, kool-aid, etc. Almost pure
nicotine can be obtained from the round flat boxes of snuff. Pour the snuff
out into a container and add enough water to cover it all. Let it soak for 24
hours then take a handkerchief and stuff it into a cup with the edges of the
hand-kerchief over the sides. Pour the shit into the handkerchief so that the
liquid is filtered out from the snuff. Squeeze the handkerchief to get out
any excess liquid. Discard the snuff and pour the liquid into a small
saucepan over a low fire. When the liquid has evaporated to about a small
teaspoon of a thick dark substance your poison is finished. A lethal dosage
is about two or so drops.
------------------
| NICOTINE SULFATE |
------------------
This is one of the most interesting poisons of mine. It is obtained as an
insect poison found under several names. One of the most common is Black
Leaf 40, found at any garden store. It is 40% nicotine sulfate. It is most
effective if it is evaporated to a thin syrup. The interesting thing about
nicotine sulfate is that it is absorbed through the skin. An effective way to
use this is to carry it around in a softdrink then "accidentally" spill on
victim. If he does not wash it off in a matter of seconds he'll be dead in a
matter of minutes. Most likely, the victim will just forget about it if he
thinks it is just a softdrink.
------------------
| HYDROCYANIC ACID |
------------------
Hydrocyanic acid (Prussic Acid) is one of the most poisonous compounds
known. It is quite simple to prepare and is extremely deadly. A good way to
use this is to put it in a water piston. Use a newspaper and proceed to walk
pass the victim as you read the newspaper. When you near him squirt him in
the face and continue walking. Before he realizes he has been attacked he'll
fall uncon-scious. Within three minutes he'll be dead. To start the process
you will need the following items:
Potassium Ferrocyanide This can be stolen from your school lab or
purchased from a chemical supply house.
Distilled Water Found at your common grocery store
Sulfuric Acid Can be obtained by emptying the watery
contents from a car battery and boiling it in
a glass container until thick white fumes
appear or you steal it from your school lab.
Calcium Chloride Can be obtained by breaking up chalk and
letting it soak in hydrochloric acid (obtained
at a hardware store) and then drying it.
Measure out 15 parts of potassium ferrocyanide and dump it into a flask.
Next add 9 parts of distilled water and 9 parts of strong sulfuric acid (pour
the acid slowly). Then take another flask and put in some coarse fragments of
calcium chloride. Your apparatus should look like this:
To air out flask
Plastic Tubing _________________________
_____________________________ / | |
Rubber | / / | |
Stopper------- |Bucket with / | / -------
\ / |ice and / | | \ /
------- |water / | | -------
| | | / | | | |
| | | / | | | |
| | | / | | | |
| | | \ | | | |
/ \ | \ ____|___| / \
/ Acid \ | \ / | / \
/Potassium\ | \ / | / \
/ Water \ | \/ | / Calcium \
/ Mixture \ --------------------- / Chloride \
/ \ / \
----------------- -----------------
Plastic tubing (obtained from a tropical fish store) is ran from the acid,
potassium, water mixture into a bucket full of ice and water. A small hole is
cut near the bottom of the bucket just barely enough to fit the plastic
tubing into so that the icy water does not leak. Then the tubing is lead into
the flask containing the calcium chloride where the final product will be
collected. Start by heating the acid, potassium, water mixture at a low
temp, be sure to watch it as it may boil over the top. When the liquid
covers the potassium chloride the action is stopped and the apparatus is
allowed to cool. The liquid is put into a container with a good stopper.
Light and air cause hydro-cyanic acid to lose its potency. The container
should be wrapped in foil and stored in a refrigerating device. A few drops
of hydrochloric acid will help preserve your cyanic acid.
[ ] How to Make Ammonium Nitrate
Ammonium Nitrate has been used in times of war when dynamite was limited. In
its pure form, ammonium nitrate can be detonated with a 6 dynamite cap at a
blast radius of 14,000 feet per second. This file will explain how to purify
ammonium nitrate from ordinary fertilizer bought at any garden store at about
9.00 for an 80 pound bag. It also will explain some of the uses of it. Since
some of the uses require a blasting cap, I will first explain how to make
simple blasting caps that should be sufficient enough to detonate the
explosives in this file.
Materials you will need: Source:
----------------------- ------
Nitric Acid (concentrated) Stolen from your school laboratory or
bought from a chemical supply house. (Look
in phone book under lab supplies)
Mercury Taken out of old air conditioning
switches, buy from a chemical supply
house, or steal a bunch of mercury
thermometers from a grocery store, etc.
First take a bottle and pour 1000 cm (cm cubed) of concentrated, pure nitric
acid with a specific weight of 1,42 into the bottle. Then pour 120 grams of
mercury into the acid and let it set for 12 hours. After 12 hours put a
stopper over the bottle (be sure it is acid resistant) and turn the bottle
over so the materials mix (do not shake the bottle unless your committing
suicide). After some time fumes may form so be sure to air the container out
every so often. After a few hours pour the mixture into a container with a
large opening filled with 1280 grams of 95% pure alcohol. After a short time,
toxic fumes will form. When this stops, the nitrated mercury will lay at the
bottom of the bottle. It must be washed with distilled water and dried in the
sun on a glass plate. To make a blasting cap, just take a bullet shell (be
sure itis a little bigger than a 22cal.) and fill it about half full of
nitrated mercury. Insert 2 wires and connect it to a sufficient power supply
and BOOM.
Now on to purifying ammonium nitrate. First take a fairly large pan and pour
several pounds of fertilizer in it. Pour enough wood alcohol (methanol) to
cover the fertilizer. Stir it until you can no longer dissolve any more of
the fertilizer. Next, set another pan on some dry ice, which can be found in
the phone book under "dry ice". Get the pan extremely cold then pour the
dissolved fertilizer into it leaving the undissolved particles in the first
pan. The dry ice will cause the ammonium nitrate to precipitate into
crystals. When no more crystals are formed, strain them out with a paper
towel and allow them to dry. Store it in a tightly closed container.
Use for Ammonium Nitrate:
Laughing Gas
Laughing gas was one of the first anesthetics used. After a little while of
inhaling the patient became so happy he could not keep from laughing.
Finally he would drift off to a pleasant sleep. To make it, first you need
some of the ammonium nitrate that you have learned how to purify. Dissolve a
quantity of it in a pot. Then evaporate it in a pot over a medium flame until
you have a heavy brine. Take out a cold metal plate and drop a drop of it on
the plate. If it solidifies almost instantly then pour the brine onto the
metal plate. After awhile break it up into pieces and store it in a
container. To make the gas, put a spoonful into a flask and run some plastic
tubing from the flask to a plastic bag. Your apparatus should look like this:
_____________________
| Plastic Tubing \
------- \ _______________
\ / \ / |
------- \ / |
| | \ / Plastic |
| | \____/ Bag |
| | \ |
| | \ |
| | \ |
| | \______________|
| |
/ \
/ \
/ Ammonium \
/ Nitrate \
/ Brine \
/ \
--------------------
To generate the gas, heat the flask under a low flame, when the temperature
reaches 480 F the gas will generate. Be careful, the stuff explodes at 600 F
so it is advised that you put a thermometer in the flask, otherwise your
parents will spend thousands on plastic surgery for you. After the plastic
bag is full, stop the process and poke a small hole in the bag. Hold it under
your nose and inhale and whee.....have fun..
[ ] Ammonium Nitrate/Aluminum Explosive
This is a simple, dry explosive that requires ammonium nitrate and aluminum
powder (aluminum powder can be made by filing an aluminum rod bought at any
hardware store). To begin, take a handful of ammonium nitrate and put it on
a large flat board. Take another board large enough to fit in the palm of
your hand and rub the pile of ammonium nitrate vigorously until it is a fine
powder. Measure out 4 parts of ammonium nitrate to 1 part aluminum powder.
Put these in an air tight container and shake it back and fourth until they
are thoroughly mixed. To make the explosive, you will need one of the
blasting caps shown how to make in the beginning of this file. Take a pipe
with 2 end caps and fill it almost full of the explosive mixture. Insert the
blasting cap just beneath the surface. Connect it to a power source and you
have successfully completed some-thing you can throw at your mother when she
bitches at you.
[ ] Zinc Dust/Ammonium Nitrate Igniter
This is a water activated incendiary used in various chemical time delays.
To start, you will need ammonium nitrate in which you have purified, and zinc
dust which may be found at paint stores as bronzing powder or bought from a
chemical supply house. Measure out 5 parts of zinc powder to 15 parts of
ammonium nitrate and mix them thoroughly in an air tight container. Be sure
all the materials you are using are extremely dry, even a trace of moisture
may ignite the mixture spontaneously. To make the mixture ignite, simply
place a drop or so of water on it. A good delay may be made by using the
following diagram:
----------------------
| |
| Empty Can |
| |
| |
| |
| Small hole at |
| bottom of can |
Tape cans together ____/---------- -----------
\---------- -----------
| Small hole at |
| top of can |
| |
| Empty Can |
| |
| /\ |
| \/ |
| Medium sized hole |
| on side of can |
----------------------
To start the delay spread the igniter around the bottom can, then fill the
top can with water. The water will begin to drip from the hole in the top can
into the bottom can. When the water fills up enough to reach the hole in the
side of the can, water will come out onto the igniter thus igniting it.
Now that you are familiar with ammonium nitrate and some of its uses, go out
and experiment with it. It has millions of uses.
[ ] The Art of Deception a Con Man's Game <On-going Series>
[--------------]
[ Introduction ]
[--------------]
Most of the cons and scams outlined in this series are of my own
device or others. The first ones I will talk about are ones to pull on
your friends, and don't worry they shouldn't take it so hard.
[------------------]
[ Friends and Bars ]
[------------------]
Well this one is great, but don't pull it on any physics majors,
because they might just figure it out.
[-----------]
[ Materials ]
[-----------]
Lemon
Matches
Glass
Shallow Plate
Water
Quarter
A few other items to put in just for confusion.
[---------------]
[ Bar Situation ]
[---------------]
<This requires at least three people preferably four.>
Go into the bar with your friend and sit at the bar. Now when the two
of you are sitting at the bar constantly bet on bullshit back and forth until
you see someone who looks interested. Now don't be noticeable when he peaks
an interest in your betting. Now it is time for the burn.
First the set-up
1) Fill the plate with water, and put the quarter into the
plate under the water.
2) Now hand your friend a lemon, The matches, and some other
bullshit you threw in for confusion. Now bet him that he
CAN'T do it. <This is important, because when you insult
their ego making them think they can't cons work smoother,
but this little side note is for the victim mainly when he
tries to get in on the action> And when I say do it I mean
get the quarter out of the plate.
3) Now state the rules to him. Saying he has to get the
quarter out of the plate without getting his fingers wet,
and he can use ANY object on the table. Also state that he
cannot drink the water out of the plate, and he cannot scoop
the quarter out of the water.
4) Now at this point your friend should turn to the
interested party and say,"Do you want to get in on this he
just bet me 20-200 dollars that using any of these objects
on the table showing him the lemon,matches, and other shit
you threw in for confusion. That he could get the quarter
out of the water without getting his fingers wet, scooping
it,drinking it, or pouring it out. Now usually the person
will say hell yes, I'll bet X amount of dollars on this one
its easy money. He will most likely try and fail.
5) Now have your third friend who walks in later to hold the
money, because he is the "unknown third party" and he holds
your money, your friends money, and the suckers money.
6) When he tires himself out trying to get the quarter out
of the plate. Then you screw him blue!
[-----------------------------------------]
[ How to Get the Quarter out of the Plate ]
[-----------------------------------------]
To get the quarter out of the plate with the water in it. Take
your drink and finish it, and now pour the ice into your friends glass. Now
take the lemon and stick the pack of matches into it with the heads facing
up,and set the lemon into the water with the match heads sticking up. Now
light the match heads and set the glass on top of the burning matches as
quickly as possible. That is the solution practice it at home what happens
is all the water is sucked up into the glass, and now you can pick the
quarter out of the empty plate. Now it's time to take the money and run.
You will have to experiment with this one awhile to find out exactly how much
water is sucked up, what depth to pour the water to, and what size plate to
use.
[---------------]
[ In Conclusion ]
[---------------]
It works quite well, and the only reason I am giving it out is
because it has been used to it's fullest extent by guess who? in guess who's
hometown. Running cons like this one work quite well, and no one is truly
cheated. In fact you have made them wiser, and for that they should pay you.
Knowledge is not cheap and nor are lessons in the arcane. One more note to
pull this one on your friends simply bet them it is a lot easier. Another
note is that every con should be modified every time it is run. It is the
same as running an unmodified board, add your own touches to it and enhance
it a little. Another added note is the amount bet depends on the place you
go some places people will drop a hundred or more even others people wont.
One more note is it is best to have at least 200 dollars on your person. This
con isn't run a lot since we figured it out, and are about the only people
who ran it. Not to mention you can hit 20 to 30 bars a night and come home
with anywhere from 400-5,000 dollars. My personnel best night only yielded
me about $3800 roughly, but hey it's a living and not to mention we ran a few
others.
[ ] The Art of Deception a Con Man's Game <On-going Series>
[--------------]
[ Introduction ]
[--------------]
Most of the cons and scams outlined in this series are of my own
device or others. The first ones I will talk about are ones to pull on your
friends, and don't worry they shouldn't take it so hard.
[------------------]
[ Taming the Shrew ]
[------------------]
This one works great when your out of town. I call it Taming The
Shrew, because it works best when run on women. In fact I have never
successfully or even heard of it being successfully run on a man <Not a
Sexist Statement>. This is a checking scam with little to no risk involvement
whatsoever.
[------------------]
[ Materials Needed ]
[------------------]
Checkbook of PERSONNEL Checks <In a fake name or stolen (see note 1>
Victim Car <optional>
Note I - When using stolen checks the victim must be totally unaware, and it
is good to have a fake I.D. printed up with the checkholders name on it.
[-----------------]
[ Running the Con ]
[-----------------]
To run this con you should go to another nearby city or town. Small
towns are nice, and work quite well, but we will deal with large cities and
big bucks. O.k. now that you have the checks and hopefully an ID <Makes it
easier> go to the bank in another town, and wait and watch. What you are
looking for is a sucker a lady who looks like she would help a person in
need. One of those pathetic loafs of shit who would help anybody in trouble
through their supreme stupidity and blind gullibility.
1) After you find your mark <Victim> you go up to the tellers window right
next to hers, and try to cash your check. Now try to cash a check for $1,253
dollars. Now the teller won't cash your check especially if your from out of
town, and without ID. Going out of town is a must.
2) Now tell the teller a sob story,"Please my money was stolen and I was
robbed they took my wallet and everything in it and I just need $300
dollars for food and gas to wherever your sick aunt is<If you have no ID>,
but if you have an ID say,"Please for the love of god my aunt is very
sick, and I am driving to see her. I am stuck in this town, because my
car broke down and I need $1,253 dollars to get it fixed please, please
help me etc...
3) Now no matter how much you beg they won't give you shit unless your in a
small town then sometimes. Now make sure when you give the story your
mark is overhearing every single word you say. Now leave the bank and sit
on the concrete outside and whimper, and say,"I am so sorry auntie please
god help me please."
4) Now timing is everything when your outside your mark should overhear you
whimpering etc... Now most people will offer to help, and help they can.
5) In your whimpering way say, "Please could you cash a check for me and give
me the money to get my car fixed please. I'll write you a check it's just
that I have to se my aunt she is very sick and my uncle is leaving on
business soon and she will be all alone. I swear to you I am good
for the money please, oh please help me."
6) At this point if all goes well she will be eating out of your hand don't
look happy look grateful. Now take the money and run <not literally> just
keep thanking her, and go.
7) Repeat the process at another bank.
Notes: Now look don't get frustrated not everyone is so helpful, but in a
day you should hit about 40 different banks with at least a 50% success
rate. So that is $27,400 in a days work not bad. All it takes is a drive
to a city and pull the jobs. Then your out of that town a hell of a
lot richer and happier, and the police will be lost to who did it. It is
also a good idea to go with three friends that way while one is pulling
the con the other two can chat and enjoy themselves also you can
alternate.One more note look for your mark outside the bank, and for gods
sake don't smoke! Look nice and respectable dress yuppie.
[ ] *Street Fighting Gloves*
[--------------]
[ Introduction ]
[--------------]
These are excellent to have handy for self defense. Not only are they
intimidating, but very painful to be hit with.
[-----------]
[ Materials ]
[-----------]
Gloves <Leather preferably, but knit will do, and not mittens>
Flathead Tacks <See diagram one>
Black Electrical Tape
[-------------]
[ Diagram One ]
[-------------]
|
|
|
---------
This type of tack they are usually silver, and not that hard to find.
I believe the correct terminology is Push Tack.
[-------------]
[ Preparation ]
[-------------]
These are simple to make, so this should be a relatively short and
composed file.
1) Take a glove <right or left> and put it on.
2) Pull out a length of tape that will reach from the middle of your hand all
the way over the tip of your finger and to the other side of your hand.
<This way both sides of your hand will have about two to three inches of
tape over them, and the tape will extend to the end of your finger.> Also
don't put the tape on yet.
3) Now take the push tacks and punch them through the tape before you put it
on your hand, so that the tacks will have their backs facing your fingers.
Now for the space between your knuckles put about four-five tacks, and then
put the tape over your hand. <If that wasn't too clear what the
meaning here is, the tacks go facing outward and stick to the sticky
side of the tape, and then the tape is placed on the finger and over the
hand. That way one finger is now armed with four or five spikes.
4) Now repeat the above steps for the other four fingers.
5) Now wrap the tape around your hand six times that way the loose ends from
the tape on your fingers out onto your hands won't come off.
6) Repeat the process for the other glove.
7) Now depending on you, you can add more spikes to the bottom of your hand,
the sides, the bottom flat half of your hand, and the lower palm of your
hand. This is what I suggest you do for the intimidating look. Also when
adding spikes make a fist and hit to make sure they are placed correctly.
Also note that spikes on the knuckles hurt when you hit!
[-------------]
[ Diagram Two ]
[-------------]
Incidentally this is a diagram of a right handed deathglove.
_____
| | _____
_____ | | | |
| | | | | |
| | | | | | _____
| | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | |
| | |*****| | | | |
|*****| | | |*****| | |
| | | | | | |*****|
| +++ | | +++ | | +++ | | |
|+++++| |+++++| |+++++| | +++ |
| | | | | | | |
_|*****|__|*****|___|*****|__|*****|
| |
______ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | |
\ \ | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
\ \___/ +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
\ |
----------------------------------
[-----]
[ Key ]
[-----]
+ = Spikes on Glove
* = Knuckles/Joints
| = The sides of glove
- = The bottom of glove
\ = Sides of glove
The spikes can be added any way you want it is a creative art of
making fighting gloves or deathgloves, and they have a hell of a lot more
stopping power than a bare fist.
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