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----------------------------------DISCLAIMER------------------------------------
	This textfile is intended for educational purposes only. Some assembly 
required. Use only as directed. No warranty expressed or implied. Do not use 
while operating a motor vehicle or heavy equipment. Some content may be too 
intense for some readers. Do not disturb, edit, or modify. If condition persists
consult your physician. Slippery when wet. Certain actions, materials, 
ingredients, ideas, or projects contained within this document may be unlawful
and/or illegal in some locations. Learn your local laws before reading, and do 
not attempt anything contained in this document if it conflicts with the laws in
your area. Not affiliated with the American Red Cross. The author of this 
document (from this point further known as Molotov, the author, or Molotov 
Poison) takes no responsibility for any direct, indirect, incidental or
consequential damages resulting from any defect, error, failure, or success to
perform. Avoid contact with skin. Beware of dogs. No purchase necessary. Use 
only in well-ventilated and legal areas. Keep away from fire or flame, even when
contradictory to instruction within document. Not recommended for children. No
soliciting. No alcohol, drugs, or weapons to be used or possessed. Restaurant 
package, not for resale. Some contents of this document are in very bad taste 
and are to be considered politically incorrect. While the author of this 
document strives to make the information contained within as timely and accurate
as possible, the author makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the 
accuracy, completeness, or adequacy of the contents of this document, and 
expressly disclaims liability for errors and omissions in the contents of this 
document. No warranty of any kind, implied, expressed, or statutory is given 
with respect to the contents of this document. Reference in this document to any
commercial product (specific or otherwise), process, or service, or the use of
any trade, firm or corporation name is for the information and convenience of 
the public, and does not constitute endorsement, recommendation, or favoring by 
the author. Some contents in this document are not originally written by 
Molotov, but have no definitive source, and Molotov does not claim rights or
ownership to any questionable material contained within. The author of this 
document did not write some of its contents, merely compiled the most accurate 
information into one document for the information and convenience of the public.
Read at your own risk.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
DO NOT READ ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE WITHOUT FIRST READING THE DISCLAIMER.
________________________________________________________________________________

(all topics covered in this cookbook are categorized by topic)
 - Clarification provided and typos removed from most articles by Molotov Poison.





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CHAPTER 1 - PHREAKING-----------------------------------------------------------

	"Phreak" is a term that combines the words "Phone" and "Freak", 
describing someone who tampers with or manipulates phone or telecommunication 
systems. With the widespread use of computer systems, and more importantly cell
phones, phreaking became mostly obsolete and largely died down. A "box" is a 
phreak term used to describe anything designed or constructed to aid in 
phreaking. Boxes tend to be named after colors, following in the footsteps of 
the first, the Blue Box.

Since most boxes were designed in the late 1980's and early 1990's, the majority
of them  are outdated and no longer work, although some still do.






The Acrylic Box (also known as the Extended Bud Box)
----------------
This box is designed to get call waiting, three-way-calling, programmable call
forwarding, and an easier way of extended Bud Boxing, stealing them from others
in your neighborhood. 

Things You'll Need:
	- a few feet of wire
	- a pair of wire strippers
	- an AT&T/BELL can
	- a hex wrench

1. Find an AT&T/BELL can in your area.

2. Use hex wrench to open can.

3. Find your line and another person.s line who has 3-way, Call (waiting/
forwarding), if the number of all of the lines are not listed in the box, you 
will have to use your local ANI to find them.

4. Once you have found the correct lines, wire the black and yellow wires from 
their line to the black and yellow wires on your line. (Be sure that your phone
at home uses all four wires as some of the cheap phones don't.)

5. Disconnect their black and yellow wires (this causes them to lose these
features on their line)

(note: if they have red and green wires, connect these to your red and green
wires and skip steps 4 and 5.)





The Aqua Box
-------------

This box is designed to lower the voltage on the phone line to offer a way to
"hide" from the FBI's lock in trace. The FBI uses the lock in trace to lock in
the location of a phone line, determining exactly where the user of that line
(you) is located.


Thing's You'll need:
	- a BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp type
connection, where you have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light
bulb.
	- one of the above mentioned cords.
	- two phone jacks

	(This is a simple procedure.  If you have the BEOC, it could drain into
anything, a radio, or whatever.  The purpose of having that is you are going to
suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical appliance so there
would be no voltage left to lock you in with.)

1. Take the connection cord.  It should have two prongs (if it has three do not
fear). MAKE SURE THE ELECTRICAL APPLIANCE IS TURNED OFF. Most plugs have a hard
plastic design on the top to keep you from getting into the electrical wires,
if so, get a knife and remove it. If you want to keep the plug then just cut the
top off. At the base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in.  Those
wires conduct the power into the appliance. Carefully unwrap those from the
sides and pull them out until they are roughly an inch ahead of the prongs. If
you don't want to keep the jack, rip the prongs out.  If you do, cover the
prongs with insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the
power is being drained from the line.

2. Do the same thing with the prongs on the second plug, so you have the wires
evenly connected. Wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you have the
other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop reading now, and do 
not continue. After you've wrapped the wires around each other, cover the whole
thing including the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you have a control box
cram all the wires into it and close it.

	To use it, keep it handy. Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will
slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you
see sparks, unplug it and restart the WHOLE thing. But if it seems fine then leave
it. When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the
appliance that you hooked it to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's
a great source... the voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a
simple light bulb should drain it and probably short the FBI
computer in the process.

The Assassin Box
-----------------
This box is designed to scare, harm, or even kill people using he phone by a
shock of electricity right in the ear when the victim starts dialing a number.


Things You'll need:
	- one portable car battery
	- at least eight feet of tough insulated copper wire
	- an AT&T test kit or a splitter box connector
	- wire stripper

1. Take the test kit and strip it of any extra material, and clean it. On the
test kit you will see two terminals that look like this
	*	*
	A	B
(A is the positive tip, and B is the negative tip.)
Take about four feet of copper wire and wire terminal A to the car battery's
positive bolt. Make sure you are grounded and are wearing protection against
electricity. Wire the B terminal to the car battery's negative bolt using the
other four feet of copper wire. Don't cross wires. Secure all connections with
shrink tubes, or electric tape.

2. Find the telephone box and attach the red alligator clip to the red terminal,
and the green(or sometimes black) alligator clip to the green terminal. Now
either leave the box how it is, or you can try to hide it if you want. Close the
telephone box and leave.





The Beige Box
--------------
This box is my (Molotov)'s personal favorite, and basically acts as a lineman's
handset. It can be used to eavesdrop, and it can be used to make phone calls to
anyone (even the police) without anybody knowing it was you who called. As far
as they know, you are the person living at the house that owns the box.

Things You'll need:
	- a wired telephone
	- a modular jack
	- about two feet of green wire and two feet of red
	- two alligator clips

1. Plug in your phone to the modular jack.

2. Open your modular jack, and you should see several different colored screws.
Attach your green wire to the green screw, and your red wire to the red screw. 
Attach an alligator clip to each wire.

3. To use, open the telephone box, attach the red wire to the red terminal and
the green wire to the green terminal. Use it like a normal home phone.





The Blotto Box
---------------
(Out of respect to the creator of the blotto box, this one will not be modified
in any way from its original text.)

The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its
knees with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. Nothing.  Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people
close to the box may be electrocuted if they pick up the phone.
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is
electricity to continue with.
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you
to do with it...

-*-=>Blotto Functions/Installing<=-*-

Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt
to construct this box.

Materials:
  - A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a 
    stadium or some such place.
  - 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a
    phone line jack.
  - A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
  - A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
    you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch
    boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
    or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
    code!
  - A soldering iron and much solder.
  - A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of
the other listed equipment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything
convenient, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.
Open it up and match the red and green wires with
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those
lines together carefully. Wrap duct tape or insulation tape around all
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the
phone lines around you in every direction. - Exodus





The Light Box
--------------
This box is designed to light up when a phone is taken off the hook. This 
does not show when a phone is being tapped, and it will light whenever any
phone is off-hook.

Things You'll need:
	- a 12VDC SPDC relay from RadioShack (the red relays and subminis
won't
work.) (DPDT will also work, you just will only use the red and green
contacts.)
	- a power chord
	- a light bulb (preferably an LED, as it will last a lot longer.)
	- a battery
	- a box

	The principle under which this device operates is that there is a
voltage across the red and green wires of the phone line that drops
significantly when an extension is lifted. For a 12 volt coil, the voltage
will have to be dropped so that the relay will function properly. The proper
resistance is around 10K ohms, but it is best to use a 5K ohm fixed resistor
and a 10K ohm variable (any combination that can cover the 10K range will
work).  Adjust it to approximately 10K, or halfway for the combination above.
Connect the resistors in series with the coil.

	Due to the nature (or simplicity) of this device it will operate without
having to be plugged into a phone. In other words, you can plug it directly into
a jack anywhere, and it'll work. You'll want to get a modular plug that
terminates in spade lugs for this purpose. Connect the green wire to one side of
the coil, and the red wires to the resistors (so that it's all in series). If
you don't have an extra phone jack, then you will want to buy a Y connector so
that two phones can be plugged into the same jack, or get another phone jack and
install it in the same box with the in-use light - so that you can plug a phone
into it. Just connect the spade lugs to their respective colors.

	You should also get a panel lamp assembly to keep it steady and make it
look better. Since the current is low, you can use almost any power cord. 
Connect it in series with the normally closed contacts of the relay in series
with the dropping resistor.

Your circuits should now look like this:
                     /
--------RED----!---- 5k --- 10k -------O     O-------------------!-----110V
                   /          |     |
                         coil    NC /
                        |     |
-------GREEN---!-----------------------O     O-- bulb --- 220k --!-----110V

	Make sure the phone circuit (left) and the lamp circuit (right) are
completely separate, and CAN NOT TOUCH. Use wire nuts for all connections in
110V that are not to a terminal post, and tape them. Insulate all exposed wires
with electric tape or shrink tubes. Glue the relay to the box or mount it on a
stable PC board.

Hook it up.  It should work immediately, but look out for these problems it may
have:

1) The relay keeps the phone off the hook. To remedy this, lower the resistance
until it doesn't.

2) The relay won't close.  The solution for this is the same as number 1.

3) The relay stays closed.  Raise the resistance with the phone on hook until
the light goes off.

	If it works, it will be on when one or more extensions are off-hook, and
it will be off when all extensions are on-hook. It will also blink when the
phone rings.





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CHAPTER 2 Almost Childs play----------------------------------------------------

	This chapter covers what some would call amateur, and others would call
a way to pass the time. Just about everything from over-the-top pranks to 
fighting the boredom at school to pissing people off and being annoying for fun.
Hell, it's kind of a "gateway chapter" if you will, to the more extreme stuff in
store.

	



The Dry Ice Bomb
-----------------
The dry ice bomb is a pretty common, and pretty well known bomb. It is used by
many pranksters around the world. It is also one of the easiest bombs to make,
but don't be fooled, it still packs quite a punch. It can blow a metal trash can
fifteen feet in the air if made correctly, as well as burst the bottom of the
can.

Things You'll Need:
	- a reseal-able bottle (plastic if being used for amusement or as a
prank, glass if you want to actually do some damage)
	- some warm water (many other liquids work too, be creative)
	- dry ice

1. Fill your bottle about 3/4ths of the way with water (or chosen liquid).

2. Crush the dry ice (careful- it hurts if you touch it directly), and quickly
pour enough in the bottle to about layer the bottom of the bottle.

3. Cap the bottle and throw it (or if you want to be a bit safer, drop it and
back away)

IF USING A GLASS BOTTLE, MAKE SURE YOU ARE WAY THE FUCK AWAY FROM IT BEFORE IT
EXPLODES OR YOU WILL BE FULL OF GLASS.





Lets Go Fishing
----------------
Normally when you go fishing for fun, the obvious choice would be firecrackers
or just about anything with a fuse that goes boom, right? Well, I hope this
freshens things up a bit, and gives you bigger fish.

Things You'll Need:
	- a jar (or a can would work too, hell even a bottle)
	- sodium
	- some cotton balls
	- a knife (or other pointy object)
OPTIONAL:
	- rope or tape
	- weight

1. Take your jar and put some sodium in it (unknown amount, so be cautious)

2. Fill up the rest of the jar with cotton balls, pack them in tight.

3. Poke a hole or two in the top of your jar.

4. (OPTIONAL) Tie or tape a weight to your jar (only in deep waters) to make it
sink faster.

5. Drop your jar in the water and wait for the explosion (what happens is the
water slowly leaks through the cotton, and when it comes in contact with the
sodium it makes a chemical reaction and explodes.)

6. Collect whatever floats to the surface.





Smoke Bombs
------------
This is a very simple way to make smoke bombs. They produce less smoke than the
type that will be covered in the next chapter, but a bit more than the kind you
would buy at any Utah fireworks stand. (They.re also cheaper than at the
fireworks stand)

Things You'll Need:
	- some Ping-Pong balls
	- aluminum or tin foil
	- scissors

1. You have a choice here, you can make less smoke bombs that are stronger or
more smoke bombs that are weaker. It's up to you, quality or quantity. If you
chose quantity, then skip to step 4.

2. Take one Ping-Pong ball (we'll call this ball A), and stab a hole in it,
slightly smaller than a dime.

3. Take up to three other Ping-Pong balls, and cut them into pieces small
enough to fit in the whole you made, then (obviously) stuff them all into ball
A.

4. Now you'll want to wrap your Ping-Pong ball in foil, leaving some extra and
twisting it into a sort of handle to your smoke bomb. Like so-

	             ZZ
	           ZZZZZZ
	        ZZZZZZZZZZZ
	ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
	        ZZZZZZZZZZZ
	           ZZZZZZ
	             ZZ

5. Hold it over a flame until you hear it start to burn, then throw it or
whatever.





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Chapter 3 - Scams---------------------------------------------------------------

	Since there was money there were scams. Scams, rip-offs, easy money...
Whatever you call it, this chapter is full of less than legal ways to make quick
and easy money.





Scam #1
--------

Things You'll Need:
	- yourself and a friend (both must have sports skills)
	- someone not very good at sports
	- people who are willing to place bets.

1. You and your friend need to go somewhere where people will be willing to bet
on sports. 

2. Select someone who isn't too bad at the sport, but that you know you could
beat. Don.t approach them quite yet.

3. Keep losing games, against various people (don't play against selected person
yet).

(for step 3, make sure there are a lot of people around to witness this. The
ones that will want to bet.)

4. Play against selected person, and this time play to win. Try and get people
to bet on your game, if you did step 3 right, everyone will bet against you.
Don't make it obvious that you are far more skilled than this guy, you don't
want people to know it's a scam.

5. Once you win, collect your earnings. DO NOT LOSE, or you'll end up in
trouble when you can't pay those you bet against.





Scam #2
--------

Things you'll need:
	- a printer
	- a lot of paper

1. You're going to want to print a list of football (or any sport, pick a
popular one) games that are happening this weekend or next weekend. Print a lot
of these.

2. Put instructions on the sheets. Have people circle the team they want and
what they think the score will be. 

3. Have people pay $5 or so to join, and say that whoever gets the most wins and
scores correct gets all of the money.

4. Try and make sure that nobody knows you are the one running it. If they don't
know you were running it, then you can keep all of the money and tell people
that you won. If people do know you are running it, or if you've done this scam
before, then give some of the money to the winner, and keep the rest. Do this
all the time, and you will make a lot of money.





Scam #3
--------
Change machine rip-off...

Things You'll Need:
	- a one or five dollar bill
	- scissors
	- a change machine

1. Cut a slit about an inch to the right of the bottom left corner of your
dollar bill about half an inch high.

(It should look something like this)  :

	_____________________
       |        ____         |
       |       /face\        |
       |       \____/        |
       |__|__________________|

2. Put it in the change machine. It should go in far enough read it and give you
your change, then see the rip and spit out your dollar bill.





Scam #4
--------
Coke machine rip off...

Things You'll need:
	- postage tape (other clear tapes aren't strong enough)
	- a new (perfect condition) dollar bill
	- a coke machine

1. Take your dollar bill and put the tape over it starting at about the middle
of Mr. Washington's head, make it go about 20 inches past the end (the right
side, NOT THE LEFT) of the dollar, then fold it back and cover the same amount
of the bill on the back side. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO BUBBLES OR RIPS IN THE 
TAPE, or it wont work.

Like this-

	________________
       | 1    _#####################################
       |     ( ####### Tape to Georgie's head. #####
       | 1    -#####################################
        ----------------

2. Wait until the machine has finished taking your bill (while holding onto the
tape), then when it's all done, slowly pull your bill back out. Buy something 
worth less than a buck. If you pull too slowly, it won't pull. If you pull too 
fast, you'll rip your bill and will only get the half of it that's covered by 
tape. You will get your bill back, your change, and your beverage.

Be sure that nobody's around when you do this, because it's pretty sketch to be 
pulling a twenty inch piece of tape with a dollar bill on the end out of a 
vending machine.

Have a backpack with you, and do this until the machine runs out of <$1 drinks 
or change, putting all the drinks in your backpack, and pocketing the change. 
You will end up with a bit more money, and you can either drink your pile of 
beverages or you can sell them for less than the machine would charge (therefore
making even more money).





Scam #5
--------
Receipt Swap...

Things You'll Need:
	- Yourself and a friend
	- a busy restaurant with counter seats and a lot of people
	- some money (maybe $6, enough for a coffee at whatever restaurant you 
choose)

1. First, either you or your friend goes inside (only one of you). Then whoever 
went in first (person 1) sits at the counter and orders a large and/or expensive
meal.

2. Whoever hasn't gone in yet does so now (person 2). Person 2 must be sure to 
sit right next to person 1, and both of you act like you don't know each other. 
Person 2 should order a coffee (or really anything cheap). 

3. Both people should get their bills at about the same time, then when person 2
"isn't paying attention", person 1 swaps the bills, gets up and pays, then 
leaves. 

4. Then person 2 picks up the bill that person 1 left them with (with the meal),
looks at it and makes a big deal about how somebody swapped his bill. If you do 
a good job at acting like you were the victim of some asshole's bill swapping 
scam, they will make you only pay for your coffee.

If done correctly, both people should only have to pay for the coffee, but one 
should've gotten a full meal. You can go to another restaurant now and swap 
roles.





Scam #6
--------
The short change scam. One of the most popular and most widely used today. It is also quite simple, if you can catch the trick involved.

Things You'll Need:
	- one large bill (like a twenty or higher)
	- a lot of $1 bills (maybe 15)
	- somewhere to buy stuff

1. Go to a store, or a bar. Buy something cheap (worth maybe $5 or less). Pay with a twenty, or other large bill.

2. While they are getting your change out of the register, you are going to tell them that you have ten ones (you will actually give them nine) and ask them to swap them for a ten. Because they are already at the register, they will probably grab the ten for you before counting your ones. Pocket the ten. Then they will notice that there are only nine ones. Give them another, and say something like "actually, i have somemore ones here too." Give them five more ones (on top of the 10 you already gave them), in exchange for a total of a ten and a five.

3. Take your item that you purchased, and your money, and leave the store (or bar etc).

See what you did there? Basically you overwhelmed them with numbers, and by overlapping three transactions, managed to get them confused enough to make a mistake. So you purchased your item fair and square, then asked for a ten for your ones (the kind of honest part). You get the ten before they count the ones. Then when they notice you don't have enough ones, give them the one you owe them and five more, asking for a ten and a five instead. Now you have the ten you got, as well as fifteen more, ON TOP OF the change you got from your first transaction. You started with thirty five, and ended with fifty.





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Chapter 4 - Explosives, Guns and Chemicals--------------------------------------
Pretty much anything that goes boom can be found in this chapter... as well as a
few other things that could really cause some damage.





Black Powder
-------------

Ingredients (by weight)  :
	- 75 parts saltpeter
	- 15 parts charcoal
	- 10 parts sulfur

1. Finely grind all three ingredients SEPERATELY. This can be done using a
mortar and pestle or a hand cranked flour mill. If you grind them all together,
it will blow up and you will lose your hands.

2. Mix all of the ingredients with a small amount of water (or for better 
performing black powder, use urine). You want it to have a dough-like 
consistency. Do this gently. Seriously.





Acetone Peroxide
-----------------
Acetone peroxide is an explosive ideal for homemade blasting caps, or small explosions.

Ingredients:
	- acetone (obtained from a hardware or paint store)
	- hydrogen peroxide (hair bleach type - 15 volume or higher, obtained
from hair/cosmetics or paint stores)
	- sulfuric acid (concentrated - boil battery acid until white fumes
appear, removes all of the water, or obtained from a paint store)

	Also have a thermometer, ice, a glass jar, and salt

1. Mix 30 parts acetone and 51 parts hydrogen peroxide in your jar.

2. place the jar in iced salt water and cool it to below 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees fahrenheit)

3. Once it is below 5 degrees Celsius, begin adding the sulfuric acid ONE DROP AT A TIME. Stir constantly, and watch the thermometer. If the temperature gets up to 9 degrees Celcius (about 48 degrees Fahrenheit) stop adding the sulfuric acid, and wait for the mixture to cool. DO NOT LET THE TEMPURATURE GET TO 10 DEGREES CELSIUS. You need a total of 2.5 parts sulfuric acid.

4. Continue stirring for a few minutes after you have finished adding the sulfuric acid. Put the mixture in the fridge and leave it overnight. In the morning there should be white precipitate on the bottom of the container.

5.  Pour the solution through some sort of filter such as a coffee filter, a paper towel, a bandana, etc, then pour roughly half a cup or so of ice cold water over it. The liquid part doesn't matter, the part collected on your filter is the acetone peroxide. 

Acetone Peroxide is extremely sensitive. Keep it away from any shock, friction, or flame. To make blasting caps, get a 2.5 inch brase or copper tube and lightly pack it full of acetone peroxide, and very gently stuff a fuse in there. Also, since it is sensitive to friction, it can be set off by being thrown hard, or smashed, etc.





Nitroglycerin
--------------
Nitroglycerin is a highly explosive and sensitive substance.
Ingredients:
	- fuming red nitric acid (of 98% concentration)
	- fuming sulfuric acid (99% H2SO4)
	- glycerin
	- sodium bicarbonate

	You will also need an eyedropper, some ice water, and some glass containers.

1. Put 13ml of fuming red nitric acid in a beaker, or any other glass container, then place the container in ice water and allow it to cool below room tempurature.

2. Slowly add 39ml of sulfuric acid. Cool the mixture to about 11 degrees Celsius (roughly 52 degrees Fahrenheit).

3. Add the glycerin, ONE DROP AT A TIME. You want to make a layer of glycerin over the acid. WATCH THE TEMPURATURE THE WHOLE TIME, DO NOT LET IT EXCEED 28 DEGREES CELSIUS. This is the dangerous part, because as soon as you start to add the glycerin, the mixture will start to nitrate, and this will produce heat. If the mixture goes above 30 degrees Celsius, pour it directly into the ice water to prevent explosion.

4. After adding the glycerin, gently stir the solution for about 10 minutes. If done correctly, there should start to appear a layer of nitroglycerin on top of the acid mixture. 

5. Slowly pour the entire mixture into another container of water, the nitroglycerin should move to the bottom. Drain as much of the acid as you can  without disturbing the nitroglycerin, then you can remove the nitroglycerin using an eyedropper.

6. Place the nitroglycerin in sodium bicarbonate, to remove most of the remaining acid. Repeat this step as many times as neccisary (use litmus paper) until all acid is removed. 

7. remove the nitroglycerin from the sodium bicarbonate using your eyedropper. To see if you made it correctly, use a flame to ignite ONE DROP of nitroglycerin. It should make a clear-blue flame.

NITROGLYCERIN IS EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO DECOMPOSITION, HEATING, JARRING, OR FRICTION, AND MAY EXPLODE FOR NO GOOD REASON, EVEN IF LEFT COLD AND UNDISTURBED.





Blasting Gelatin
-----------------
Blasting gelatin is an extremely explosive compound and is not very stabile.

Ingredients:
	- nitroglycerin
	- nitrocellulose (nitrated sawdust) (guncotton can be used instead)

1. Place 23 parts nitroglycerin in a glass container, and cool it to about 9 degrees Celsius (about 48 degrees Fahrenheit).

2. Slowly, one drop at a time, add 2 parts nitrocellulose and make sure the mixture doesn't exceed 16 degrees Celsius. If it exceeds 29 degrees Celsius and has not yet exploded, pour it directly in ice water.





Mercury Fulminate
------------------
Mercury fulminate is the primary ingredient in most blasting caps as it is a good, and stable primary explosive.

---Method 1.--- 

Ingredients:
	- mercury (pure)
	- nitric acid
	- ethyl alchohol
	- distilled water

	You will also need two glass containers and a filtering paper (bandana, coffee filter, paper towl, etc.)

1. Mix 1 part mercury with 7 parts nitric acid in a glass container, then slowly heat until it bubbles and turns green. (Heating it dissolves the silver mercury.)

2. Pour the solution into another glass container which already contains the ethyl alchohol. This should make red fumes. After about 30 minutes, the red fumes should turn white.

3. A few minutes after you get white fumes, pour some distilled water into the mixture. Then filter the solution and keep the white crystals. These are Mercury Fulminate.

4. Rinse the crystals several times, using litmus paper to be sure there is no acid left over.

---Method 2.---

Ingredients:
	- mercuric oxide
	- ammonia solution

	You will also need a glass container.

1. Mix 1 part mercuric acid with 10 parts ammonia solution in a glass container. Leave the mixture for 8 to 10 days. 

2. Filter the mixture and collect the white crystals. These are Mercury Fulminate.

3. Rinse the crystals several times, using litmus paper to be sure there is no acid left over.





Chloride of Azode
------------------
This is an extremely explosive oil-like substance.

Ingredients:
	- chlorine gas
	- ammonium nitrate

	You will also need two glass jars that are the same size.

1. Collect chlorine gas in an upside-down jar.

2. Place your upside-down jar of chlorine gas on top of a jar filled with ammonium nitrate, then slowly heat. 

3. Small oily droplets should form a layer on top of the ammonium nitrate, then slowly sink to the bottom. When this stops happening, Remove the jars from the heat.

4. Remove the ammonium nitrate, and keep the oily substance. This is chloride of azode.




Napalm
-------
It's sticky, it's simple, and it burns like a bitch. What more do you need to know?

---Method 1.---

Ingredients:
	- gasoline
	- styrofoam (a LOT of styrofoam)
	- oil (optional)

	You also need a container.

1. Pour some gasoline in a container, so it fills it up about an inch high.

2. Start putting styrofoam into the gasoline, it should dissolve into a kind of goop.

3. Pour out the gasoline, but leave the goop. (optional: add oil and mix)

---Method 2.---

Ingredients:
	- gasoline
	- soap shreds

	You will also need a large metal bucket and a small metal bucket. (You could also use a normal sized metal can and a gallon sized metal can.)

1. Put 1 part gasoline and 1 part soap in the small can, and place that can in the big can. 

2. Pour boiling water in the outside can, and keep renewing the water as it starts to cool. The goal is to melt the soap into the gasoline. 





Tetryl (Trinitrophenylmethylnitramine)
-------
Tetryl, when detonated, has a very similar reaction to TNT. 

Ingredients:
	- dimethyllaniline
	- sulfuric acid
	- nitric acid
	- sodium bicarbonate

	You will also need 2 glass containers, and a filtering paper, such as a paper towel, a bandanna, or a coffee filter.

1. Dissolve a small amount of dimethyllaniline in a a large amount of concentrated sulfuric acid, then add this mixture to an equal amount of nitric acid in a glass container. Place this in ice water, and stir it well.

2. Stir for about 5 minutes, then filter and wash in cold water.

3. Now, boil in fresh water (containing a small amount of sodium bicarbonate). This should get rid of any remaining acid. Wash it as many times as needed to remove the acid, using litmus paper to determine Ph levels.

4. Remove the tetryl from the water, and allow to dry.





Smokeless Powder
-----------------
This is a Fairly stable compound, and it is also quite powerful, for a low explosive.

Ingredients:
	- cotton
	- sodium hydroxide
	- concentrated sulfuric acid
	- concentrated nitric acid
	- sodium bicarbonate

	You will also need a mixing stick (NOT MADE OUT OF METAL!!!!!)

1. Boil cotton in a 2% solution of sodium hydroxide for half an hour. Then wash the cotton with hot water, then allow it to dry.

2. Slowly and carefully mix 250cc of concentrated sulfuric acid, 150cc of concentrated nitric acid and 20cc of water. Make sure that they stay at 25 degrees Celsius THE WHOLE TIME.

3. Add the cotton to the acid mix, and stir for about 35 minutes using your mixing stick.

4. Wash the cotton in boiling water. Do this five or six times to eliminate acid. If there is any acid left, remove it using a 2% solution of sodium bicarbonate.





Nitrogen Tri-iodide
--------------------
Nitrogen tri-iodide is pretty much the most unstable and most dangerous explosive that you can get your hands on. Be careful with it.

Ingredients:
	- solid iodine crystals
	- concentrated ammonium hydroxide
	- alchohol
	- ether

	You will also need a container and filter paper such as a bandanna.

1. Put a few iodine crystals in about 20cc of concentrated ammonium hydroxide VERY SLOWLY until a brown-red precipitant forms.

2. Filter it, then wash it with alchohol.

3. Wash it with ether, and you're done.

Keep it in water until you are ready to use it. When it is dry, it can be set off by just about anything.





AFPO
-----
A gel explosive which is fairly stable and has roughly 3 times the power of TNT.

Ingredients:
	- amonium hydroxide
	- gasoline
	- gelatin

	You also need a glass container.

1. Mix 1 part gasoline with one part amonium hydroxide.

2. Add gelatin until the mixture is whatever thickness you like.

This can be set off by electricity as well as flame.





Nitric Acid
------------
A main ingredient in making many explosives. Very difficult to get, so here's how to make it yourself.

Ingredients:
	- sulfuric acid
	- potassium nitrate

	You will also need two glass jars of equal size, some rags, and tape.

1. Concentrate the battery acid by boiling it (outside, DON'T BREATHE THE FUMES) until white fumes appear.

2. Put 1 part concentrated sulfuric acid 1 part potassium nitrate in a jar, put a rag over the top, then place the second jar upside down on the rag.

It should look like this:

	_____
       |     |
       | jar |
       |     |
        -----
      /~~rag~~\
       |-----|
       | jar |
       |     |
       |_____|

3. Now wrap around the openings of the jars (where the cloth sticks out), so it is airtight.

4. Lay your project horizontal, and raise the filled jar above the empty one.

5. Heat the filled jar, until red fumes appear, then pour water over the empty jar. Do this until you have about half the amount of liquid you had when you put the mixture in the jar.

6. Let your assembly cool, and collect the liquid left inside. This is nitric acid.





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