1629 lines
74 KiB
Plaintext
1629 lines
74 KiB
Plaintext
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YEAST INFORMATION AND TECHNIQUE RESOURCE May 26, 1994
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Edited, compiled, annotated and introduced by Patrick Weix <weix@netcom.com>
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=============================================================================
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Hi to all fellow homebrewers. This document is meant to be a Yeast
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FAQ and general yeast information resource. Where possible, I have
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referenced the original sources. Almost all of this data was
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plagiarized from somewhere by me or others; however, I have not
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knowingly used any copyrighted stuff. (I was very careful *not* to
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check anything for a copyright ;-).) I have altered the focus of some
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documents to more accurately reflect what I feel to be the interests
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of the *home*brewer. Some of the information is very basic; some,
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more technical. I have tried to give a basic introduction to what
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yeast are, how they affect beer taste, and the proper handling of
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yeast. Some portions of the following were taken from the Wyeast
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information circular e-mailed to me by David Adams; the sections
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pertaining to yeast culturing are adapted from an upcoming book by
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Dr. Fix. Dr. Fix also provided the section on the proper method of
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yeast rehydration. Most of the information on the "reputations" of
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the many yeast strains was collected from the HBD over the years by
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Doug O'Brien. Many thanks to David Adams, Dr. George Fix, and Doug
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O'Brien. I would also like to thank Al Korzonas for his helpful
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suggestions on the characteristics of some of the yeast strains and
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for his comments and help in clarifying the sections on propagation
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and culturing; Conn V. Copas for sending me several informative
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articles clipped from the HBD and rec.crafts.brewing; and Mike Sharp
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for directing me to information about the Yeast Culture Kit people.
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Thanks also to John Mcelver who refreshed my memory about the
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sterilization power of alcohol solutions. Thomas Manteufel wrote me
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and provided some strain characteristics, provided some references to
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yeast in past HBD issues, and also had some yeast washing tips.
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Thanks to Maribeth Raines for the Brewtek yeast lists. Thanks to Jeff
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Guillet for the ascii formatting; I hope it makes the Faq a little
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easier to read. Others are referenced next to their contributions
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(often second hand). Thanks also to the many people who made small
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suggestions or requests for clarification. My name is Patrick Weix,
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and I am a graduate student in the Genetics and Development program at
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UT Southwestern at Dallas. <weix@netcom.com>. I hope you find this
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document useful!
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N.B. This document is composed of rampant hearsay and rumor. Any attempts
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to put anything on me or my co-conspirators will be resisted. If all else
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fails, I will call your boss and ask him why you are reading the HBD at work
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instead of grinding out the Fitzsimmons contract. What do they pay you for
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anyway? Don't you have anything better to do?...
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============================================================================
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LIST OF CONTENTS:
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----------------
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INTRODUCTION
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SECTION I: YEAST CHARACTERISTICS
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ACTIVITY
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TEMPERATURE
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ATTENUATION
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FLOCCULATION
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pH RANGES
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ALCOHOL TOLERANCES
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SMELLS AND TASTES
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OBTAINING CULTURES AND MISCELLANY
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WHERE TO LOOK IN THE ARCHIVES FOR MORE INFORMATION
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SECTION II: YEAST PROFILES
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PART 1: DRY ALE YEAST (Saccharomyces cerevisiae)
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PART 2: LIQUID ALE YEAST
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PART 3: LAGER YEAST (Saccharomyces uvarum)
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PART 4: WEISSEN, LAMBIC, MEAD, AND BARLEYWINE STYLES
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SECTION III: YEAST MANAGEMENT
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PART 1: HYDRATION PROCEDURE FOR DRY YEAST
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PART 2: PROPAGATION OF YEAST STRAINS
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PART 3: YEAST WASHING FOR THE HOMEBREWER
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PART 4: PARALLEL YEAST CULTURES
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PART 5: SEND YEAST THROUGH THE MAIL
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PART 6: CULTURING FROM COMMERCIAL BEERS
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APPENDIX A: WILLIAM'S WYEAST EQUIVALENCIES
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EPILOGUE: KEEPING THIS RESOURCE CURRENT
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============================================================================
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INTRODUCTION
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Yeast are unicellular fungi. Most brewing yeast belong to the genus
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Saccharomyces. Ale yeast are S. cerevisiae, and lager yeast are S. uvarum
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(formerly carlsbergerensis, BTW S. carlsbergerensis is listed in some
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places--for example, the ATCC--as a subspecies of S. cerevisiae). Another
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type of yeast you may hear mentioned, usually in conjunction with weizens, is
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S. delbrueckii. Finally, many Lambicophiles want me to say that
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Brettanomyces sp. are also used in brewing; however, I can't think of
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anything that somebody somewhere hasn't tried to brew a Lambic with :-)!!
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You may ask, "If all ale or lager yeast are basically the same species, why
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all the fuss?" The fuss has to do with strain variation. All dogs are the
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same species, yet no one will ever mistake a Basset Hound for a Doberman (at
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least not twice :-). Using different strains can add fun and spice to
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brewing, especially if you have some idea of the differences. I originally
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put together this guide to catalogue the different affects of different
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strains. This information is in Section II. Section I outlines the general
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characteristics of brewing yeast and tries to answer some of the more
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frequently asked questions about yeast that seem to cycle onto the HBD.
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Section III explains how the homebrewer can culture and maintain yeast
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strains in the safety and comfort of his/her own home.
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SECTION I: YEAST CHARACTERISTICS
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ACTIVITY
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Some yeast strains are more active and vigorous than others. Lager
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strains in particular do not show as much activity on the surface as many of
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the ale strains. Most packages provide an adequate quantity of yeast to
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complete fermentation with varying amounts of lag time depending on strain,
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freshness, handling, and temperature. If you find it too slow, make a
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starter as recommended on the package or as listed in Section III.
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The other main parameter besides the amount of yeast pitched that affects
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lag time is the proper aeration of the wort. Dissolved oxygen is essential
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for the initial rapid growth of yeast. Although there has been enough
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verbiage on the HBD for 2 FAQs on aeration methods (which means that everyone
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has a favorite method and they all work well enough), I will try to summarize
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the essentials.
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1. Aeration is very important.
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2. Wait until the wort is cold before aerating because:
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a. Why burn yourself with 5 gallons of boiling sugar water? (Can you
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say "Sterile!," I thought you could!) Very bad!
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b. Hot aeration can cause oxidation, leading to off flavors. Even
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worse!
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3. How you should aerate your wort depends on your personality and style:
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a. Low Tech and/or Cheap: Put a cap on the carboy and shake it until you
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get tired. Make it a tribal dance! Revel in the bond you feel to the
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original Sumerian brewers; revel in the 20 bucks you saved.
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b. High Tech AR Gadget Lover: Buy an aquarium air pump including one of
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the bubbler stones. Sterilize it with your favorite method--
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autoclaving is not recommended. Bubble away, confident that the
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small and uniform size of the bubbles you produce maximize the
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gas-wort interface resulting in a higher rate of O2 exchange than
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that of your chintzy brethren or sistren. Besides who wants to look
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like an idiot dancing around the kitchen clutching a carboy.
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Especially with your back....
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4. Drink a brew while watching the krausen rise majestically on your latest
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masterpiece.
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TEMPERATURE
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The slow onset of visible signs of fermentation can be improved by
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starting fermentation at 75 deg.F (24 deg.C) until activity is evident,
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then moving to your desired fermentation temperature. A few degrees can make
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a significant difference without adversely affecting flavor.
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The normal temperatures for ale yeast range from 60-75 deg.F (16-24 deg.C).
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A few strains ferment well down to 55 deg.F (13 deg.C). 68 deg.F (20 deg.C)
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is a good average. Lager strains normally ferment from 32-75 deg.F (0-24
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deg.C). 50-55 deg.F (10-12 deg.C) is customary for primary fermentation. A
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slow steady reduction to the desired temperature for secondary fermentation
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gives the best results.
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The fermentation rate is closely related to temperature. The lower the
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temperature, the slower fermentation commences. Fluctuations in temperature
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such as cooling and warming from night to day can adversely affect yeast
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performance.
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ATTENUATION
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Attenuation refers to the percentage of sugar converted to alcohol.
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Apparent attenuation of yeast normally ranges from 67-77%. The attenuation
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is determined by the composition of the wort or juice and the yeast strain
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used. Each yeast strain ferments different sugars to varying degrees,
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resulting in higher or lower final gravities. That will affect the residual
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sweetness and body.
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Really, it's slightly more complex than that (isn't everything ? :-).
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There's "apparent attenuation" and "real attenuation". The difference comes
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about because alcohol has a specific gravity less than 1 (about 0.8). Real
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attenuation is the percent of sugars converted to alcohol. So, if you had a
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10% (by weight) sugar solution (about 1.040), and got 100% real attenuation,
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the resulting specific gravity would be about 0.991 (corresponding to about
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5% alcohol by weight). The apparent attenuation of this brew would be 122%!
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George Fix published a set of equations relating apparent and real
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attenuation and alcohol content last year. For example, let
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A = alcohol content of finished beer in % by wt and
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RE = real extract of finished beer in deg. Plato.
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Since A and RE are generally not known to us, additional approximations are
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needed. The following are due to Balling, and have proven to be reasonable.
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Let OE and be defined as follows:
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OE = original extract (measured deg. Plato of wort)
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AE = apparent extract (measured deg. Plato of finished beer).
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Then,
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RE = 0.1808*OE + 0.8192*AE,
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and
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A = (OE-RE)/(2.0665-0.010665*OE).
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The "tricky part" here is the expression of the sugar content in degrees
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Plato. This is a fancy term for % sugar by weight, and corresponds *roughly*
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to "degrees gravity" divided by 4. That is, a 1.040 wort has an extract of
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10 degrees Plato. He goes on to calculate an example: To take a specific
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case, first note that from Plato tables an OG of 1.045 is equivalent to
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OE = 11.25 deg. Plato, while a FG of 1.010 is equivalent to AE = 2.5 deg.
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Plato. Therefore,
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RE = 0.1808*11.25 + 0.8192*2.5 = 4.08 deg. Plato, and
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A = (11.25 - 4.08)/(2.0665 - .010665*11.25) = 3.68 % wt.
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The apparent attenuation is 75% (from 1.040 to 1.010), the real attenuation
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is (11.25 - 4.08)/11.25 = 64%. N.B. Most attenuation figures are given in
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terms of *apparent* attenuation. (Thanks to Chris Pencis quoting Stuart
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Thomas quoting George Fix).
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FLOCCULATION
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Flocculation refers to the tendency of yeast to clump together and settle
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out of suspension. The primary determinant of how well a strain flocculates
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appears to be the "stickiness" of the carbohydrates in the cell wall. The
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degree and type of flocculation varies for different yeasts. Some strains
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clump into very large flocculate. Some flocculate very little, giving a more
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granular consistency. Most yeast strains clump and flocculate to a moderate
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degree. A yeast that is more flocculant will fall out of suspension better.
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How does that affect the final clarity of your brew? Well, since it will be
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in the bottle at least a week before you drink it, it really doesn't seem to
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matter so much.
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However, it does matter for other characteristics of the beer, namely
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attenuation and diacetyl. If the yeast settle out too quickly, they may
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leave some chemical reactions unfinished. Mostly these strains: 1) May
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not be as attenuative because of shorter contact time with the sugars,
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2) May not finish reducing all the diacetyls, leaving a butterscotch flavor.
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pH RANGES
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Typical pH range for yeast fermentations begins at about 5.1 and optimally
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4.8. The pH of wort is usually about 5, depending on the starting pH of the
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water and the grains or extracts used. During the course of fermentation the
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pH reduces to typically 3.9- 4.1 and as low as 3.1 in some wines. pH may be
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checked using pH paper test strips, which are available at many homebrew
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shops.
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ALCOHOL TOLERANCES
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The alcohol tolerance for most brewing yeast is as least to 8%. Barley
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wines to 12% can be produced by most ale strains. Pitching rates need to
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be increased proportionally to higher gravities. Alternately, Champagne and
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Wine yeast can be used for high gravities sometimes reaching alcohols to 18%.
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To get the characteristics of particular beer yeast strains in Barley Wines
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or Imperial Stouts, some brewers start with the desired beer strain, brew to
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5-8%, and finish with a champagne or wine yeast.
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SMELLS AND TASTES
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Although the principle tastes present in a beer are the result of the
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malts and hops used, the strain of yeast used can also add important flavors,
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good and/or bad. Yeast that add little in the way of extra flavors are
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usually described as having a "clean" taste. These yeast are especially
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useful for beginners because they permit experimentation with different
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ingredients without worrying about yeast influence. Yeast produce three main
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classes of metabolic by-products that affect beer taste: phenols, esters, and
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diacetyl. Phenols can give a "spicy" or "clove-like" taste, but can also
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result in mediciny tastes, especially if they react with chlorine in the
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water to make chlorophenols. Esters can lend a "fruity" taste to beer.
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Diacetyls can give beer a "butterscotch" or sometimes a "woody" taste. The
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desirability of any one of these components depends largely on the style of
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beer being brewed. In addition there are certain by-products in these
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families that are more noxious than the others. A lot depends on the
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individual palette and the effect you're aiming for.
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A final note: some yeast, especially lager yeast during lagering, can
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produce a "rotten egg" smell. This is the result of hydrogen sulfide
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production. Although the scent of this bubbling out of the air-lock is
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enough to make the strongest homebrewmeister blanch, fear not! The good news
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is that this will usually pass, leaving the beer unaffected. Relax, etc.
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OBTAINING CULTURES AND MISCELLANY
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Most of the dry strains are available by mail-order or at your local homebrew
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store. Wyeast are also widely available (by which I mean, of course, that
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*my* local store carries a wide selection). The BrewTek strains and the
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Yeast Culture Kit strains are significantly less available, so the company
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contact numbers are included as a public service.
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BrewTek: (800) 8BRE-WTE
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Yeast Culture Kit Company: (800) 742-2110
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Please do not confuse the Yeast Lab numbers with the Yeast Culture Kit
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Company numbers. Both use strain designations with the form A(le)## or
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L(ager)##, i.e. A06, L01, but they are *completely* different.
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Also, a frequently asked question is "how do you pronounce Wyeast?" Well,
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it's pronounced like "WHY-yeast."
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WHERE TO LOOK FOR MORE INFORMATION
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..In the Digest:
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(Provided kindly by Thomas Manteufel)
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Digests 529 and 725 have articles on reviving yeast from bottle conditioned
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beer. Basically, once you get them started, it is the same as the later
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stages of propagating from slants.
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HBD 802 discusses freezing yeast samples.
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HBD 811 has information from Dr. Fix on the characteristics of several
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strains.
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And there is a cornucopia of information for all you closet yeast washers out
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there, but I have integrated it into Section III, Part 3, YEAST WASHING. For
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the impatient, the HBDs referenced are 876 and 1157.
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and on the WWW:
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A hypertext link is at "http://guraldi.itn.med.umich.edu/Beer/yeast.html".
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============================================================================
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SECTION II: YEAST PROFILES
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PART 1: DRY ALE YEAST (Saccharomyces cerevisiae)
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|
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Coopers Ale Yeast
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Good to very good reputation. The Coopers is quite fruity fermented at
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65F. It's not phenolic at all and all the flavor is a very clean
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fruitiness.
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Glenbrew Special Ale Yeast
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Specially designed for use in "all malt" beers. Contains a special
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enzyme to obtain extremely low terminal gravities.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Doric Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ok to very good reputation. One person reports "reliable, clean finish".
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Edme Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Starts quick. Produces some fruity esters. Attenuative. Good
|
||
|
|
reputation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Lallemand Nottingham Yeast
|
||
|
|
This yeast is remarkable for its high degree of flocculation. It settles
|
||
|
|
out very quickly and firmly. Very good reputation. It is a fast starter
|
||
|
|
with quick fermentation at 62F. It's very clean and only very slightly
|
||
|
|
fruity in the keg, but tastes/smells nutty in the bottled version.
|
||
|
|
Nottingham appears to be relatively attenuative (more so than the Coopers).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Lallemand Windsor Yeast
|
||
|
|
Produces a beer which is clean and well balanced. This yeast produces
|
||
|
|
an ale which is estery to both palate and nose with a slight fresh yeast
|
||
|
|
flavor. Very good reputation. Not as quick as the Nottingham. Definite
|
||
|
|
banana smell at racking.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Munton-Fison Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Starts quick. Produces some fruity esters. Attenuative. Fair to good
|
||
|
|
reputation. It is reported that a phenolic taste is no longer a problem
|
||
|
|
due to some strain changes.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Red Star Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
This brand had a very bad reputation in the past, and for a while
|
||
|
|
production was suspended. A different strain (AHY 43391) was selected by
|
||
|
|
the company and is now being sold as Red Star Ale Yeast. The new strain
|
||
|
|
is much improved! Reports from Dr. Fix, a brewer's yeast consultant,
|
||
|
|
suggest that this is an excellent general purpose ale yeast with a clean
|
||
|
|
taste. Apparent attenuation 76-78%.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Whitbread Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Fast starter. Distribution switched to Crosby and Baker with a change in
|
||
|
|
the yeast. Very good reputation despite past quality problems.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 2: LIQUID ALE YEAST
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-10 American Microbrewery Ale #1
|
||
|
|
A smooth, clean, strong fermenting ale yeast that works well down to
|
||
|
|
56! F. The neutral character of this yeast makes it ideal for Cream Ales
|
||
|
|
and other beers in which you want maintain a clean malt flavor.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-20 American Microbrewery Ale #2
|
||
|
|
Gives an accentuated, rich and creamy malt profile with generous amounts
|
||
|
|
of diacetyl. Use it in lower gravity beers where the malt character
|
||
|
|
should not be missed or in Strong Ales for a robust character.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-60 North-Eastern Micro Ale
|
||
|
|
Produces a malty, bready, yet clean malt charactar and, interestingly,
|
||
|
|
leaves hop flavors and aromas well intact. This versatile yeast is well
|
||
|
|
suited for many ales including American red and amber styles.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-110 British Microbrewery Ale
|
||
|
|
Provides a complex, oakey, fruity ester profile and slightly under
|
||
|
|
attenuated finish suitable to low and medium gravity British ale styles.
|
||
|
|
Very distinct, this is a great bitter and mild yeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-120 British Pale Ale #1
|
||
|
|
Produces a bold, citrusy character which accentuates mineral and hop
|
||
|
|
flavors. The distinct character of this yeast makes it best suited for
|
||
|
|
use in your classic British Pale Ales or Bitters.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-130 British Pale Ale #2
|
||
|
|
A smooth, full flavored, well rounded ale yeast. Mildly estery, this
|
||
|
|
yeast is a strong fermenter and highly recommended for strong or spiced
|
||
|
|
ales. This yeast is well rounded and accentuates caramel and other malt
|
||
|
|
nuances.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-150 Britsh Real Ale
|
||
|
|
For those longing for the character of a real pub bitter. This yeast has a
|
||
|
|
complex, woody, almost musty ester profile that charactarizes many real
|
||
|
|
ales. Typically underattenuating, the malt profile is left intact with a
|
||
|
|
mild sweetness in the finish.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-160 British Draft Ale
|
||
|
|
One of our favorite Ale yeasts, gives a full bodied, well rounded flavor
|
||
|
|
with a touch of diacetyl. This yeast has a way of emphasizing malt
|
||
|
|
character like no other yeast we've used. Highly recommended for Porters
|
||
|
|
and Bitters.
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-170 Classic British Ale
|
||
|
|
Like CL-160, produces a beautiful draft bitter or Porter. This yeast
|
||
|
|
leaves a complex ale with very British tones and fruit like esters, it
|
||
|
|
also produces a classic Scottish Heavy and plays well in high gravity
|
||
|
|
worts.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-240 Irish Dry Stout
|
||
|
|
A top fermenting yeast which leaves a very recognizable, slightly woody
|
||
|
|
character to Dry Stouts. Has a vinous, almost lactic character which
|
||
|
|
blends exceptionally well with roasted malts. Highly attenuative and a
|
||
|
|
true top fermenter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-260 Canadian Ale
|
||
|
|
A clean, strong fermenting and well attenuating ale yeast that leaves a
|
||
|
|
pleasant, lightly fruity, complex finish. Well suited for light Canadian
|
||
|
|
Ales as well as fuller flavored Porters and British styles such as Bitter
|
||
|
|
and Pale Ale.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-300 Belgian Ale #1
|
||
|
|
Produces a truly classic Belgian Ale flavor. Robust and estery with notes
|
||
|
|
of clove and fruit. Recommended for general purpose Belgian ale brewing,
|
||
|
|
it also ferments high gravity worts well. (Note: this in not Chimay!)
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-320 Belgian Ale #2
|
||
|
|
A Flanders style yeast. Makes a terrific strong brown and a good base
|
||
|
|
brew for fruit flavored beers. This strong fermenting yeast attenuates
|
||
|
|
well and produces a fruity, estery malt profile but is a little slow to
|
||
|
|
flocculate.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-340 Belgian Ale #3
|
||
|
|
Slightly more refined than our CL-300, this yeast also produces a classic
|
||
|
|
Trappist character, with esters of spice and fruit. Mildly phenolic, this
|
||
|
|
is a strong fermenting yeast, well suited to Trappist and other Belgian
|
||
|
|
ales.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-380 Saison
|
||
|
|
A pleasant yeast best used to recreate country French and Belgian Ales as
|
||
|
|
well as Grand Cru styles. This yeast leaves a smooth, full character to
|
||
|
|
the malt with mild yet pleasant esters and flavors reminiscent of apple
|
||
|
|
pie spices.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-400 Old German Ale
|
||
|
|
For traditional Alt Biers, a strong fermenter which leaves a smooth,
|
||
|
|
attenuated, yet mild flavor. Use in your favorite German Ale recipes.
|
||
|
|
Also makes a slightly dry but clean, quenching wheat beer.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-450 K\"olsch (Koelsch)
|
||
|
|
Produces mild sulfur during fermentation which smooths with time into a
|
||
|
|
clean, well attenuated flavor. Mineral and malt characters come through
|
||
|
|
well, with a clean, lightly yeasty flavor and aroma in the finish.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1007 German Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ferments dry and crisp leaving a complex yet mild flavor. Produces an
|
||
|
|
extremely rocky head and ferments well down to 55 deg.F (12 deg.C).
|
||
|
|
Flocculation is high and apparent attenuation is 73-77%. Optimum
|
||
|
|
fermentation temperature: 62 deg.F (17 deg.C). A good balance of
|
||
|
|
sweetness and tartness. A very pleasing yeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1024 Belgian Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Banana estery flavor. With both clove-like phenolics and alcohol spice,
|
||
|
|
the Belgian will tell you right away that it's no ordinary yeast.
|
||
|
|
Tartness often develops over time. Ferment warm or with inadequate
|
||
|
|
aeration and you're likely to get a bubblegum-like note. Intended for
|
||
|
|
abbey beers, and works very well for that. And, depending on the wort
|
||
|
|
composition, *lots* of banana notes.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1028 London Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Rich minerally profile, bold woody slight diacetyl production. Medium
|
||
|
|
flocculation. Apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation
|
||
|
|
temperature: 68 deg.F (20 deg.C). Complex, woody, tart, with strong
|
||
|
|
mineral notes. It produces ales of marvelous complexity and
|
||
|
|
sophistication. This yeast was used for the 1992 B.0.S.S. Challenge
|
||
|
|
1st place Barleywine, brewed by none other than Brian and Linda North.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1056 American/Chico Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ferments dry, finishes soft, smooth and clean, and is very well balanced.
|
||
|
|
Flocculation is low to medium. Apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum
|
||
|
|
fermentation temperature: 68 deg.F (20 deg.C). The cleanest of the bunch,
|
||
|
|
but mutation-prone. This is Sierra Nevada's yeast. Probably the best
|
||
|
|
available all-around yeast, this strain can be used for anything, without
|
||
|
|
embarrassment. Wyeast 1056 is reported to be Seibels BRY-96 strain.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Slight residual diacetyl is great for stouts. It is clean smooth, soft
|
||
|
|
and full bodied. Medium flocculation and apparent attenuation of 71-75%.
|
||
|
|
Optimum fermentation temperature: 68 deg.F (20 deg.C). Soft, round,
|
||
|
|
malty; the least attenuative of the Wyeast line. Very nice for any
|
||
|
|
cold-weather ale, at its best in stouts and Scotch ales. Reputed to be
|
||
|
|
the yeast Guinness uses.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1087 Wyeast Ale Blend
|
||
|
|
Comes in the new 80 gram (50 liter) packages.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1098 British Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ale yeast from Whitbread. Ferments dry and crisp, slightly tart and well
|
||
|
|
balanced. Ferments well down to 55 deg.F (12 deg.C). Medium
|
||
|
|
flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-75%. Optimum fermentation
|
||
|
|
temperature: 70 deg.F (21 deg.C). Tart, crisp, clean. Great in pale ales
|
||
|
|
and bitters, good in porters.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1338 European Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ale yeast from Wissenschaftliche in Munich. A full bodied complex strain
|
||
|
|
finishes very malty. Produces a dense rocky head during fermentation.
|
||
|
|
High flocculation, apparent attenuation 67-71%. Optimum fermentation
|
||
|
|
temperature: 70 deg.F (21 deg.C). It's clean and malty, especially well
|
||
|
|
suited to Altbier.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Rich smoky, peaty character ideally suited for Scottish style ales,
|
||
|
|
smoked beers and high gravity ales.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 1968 Special London Ale Yeast
|
||
|
|
Highly flocculant ale yeast with rich malty character and balanced
|
||
|
|
fruitiness. High degree of flocculation makes this an excellent strain
|
||
|
|
for cask conditioned ales.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A01
|
||
|
|
From California. Vendor's suggested uses (VSU): Barley Wine, Brown Ale,
|
||
|
|
Pale Ale, India Pale Ale, Cream Ale, Porter, Stout.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A04
|
||
|
|
From Oregon. VSU: Dusseldorf Altbier, Kolsch.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A06
|
||
|
|
From Oregon. VSU: Porter, Stout, Imperial Stout.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A08
|
||
|
|
From Dorchester, England. VSU: Barley Wine (high residual sweetness).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A13
|
||
|
|
From Ireland. VSU: Porter, Stout, Imperial Stout.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A15
|
||
|
|
From England. VSU: Brown Ale, Pale Ale, India Pale Ale, Cream Ale,
|
||
|
|
Bitters and Milds.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A16
|
||
|
|
From Belgium. VSU: Trappist Ales (Abbeys, Doubles, Tripples).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A17
|
||
|
|
From London, England. VSU: Brown Ale, Pale Ale, India Pale Ale, Cream
|
||
|
|
Ale, Bitters and Milds.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A34
|
||
|
|
From Edinburgh, Scotland. VSU: Barley Wines, Scotch Ale, Scottish
|
||
|
|
Bitters, Strong Ale.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A35
|
||
|
|
From central Belgium. VSU: Belgian Whites.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A36
|
||
|
|
From Houffalize, Belgium. VSU: Belgian Ales.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit A37
|
||
|
|
From Bavaria, Germany. VSU: Altbier, Kolsch.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A01 Australian Ale
|
||
|
|
This all purpose strain produces a very complex, woody and flavorful beer.
|
||
|
|
Australian origin. Medium attenuation, medium flocculation. Great for
|
||
|
|
Brown ales and Porters. 65-68F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A02 American Ale
|
||
|
|
This clean strain produces a very fruity aroma, with a soft and smooth
|
||
|
|
flavor when fermented cool. Medium attenuation and low flocculation.
|
||
|
|
This is an all purpose ale yeast. 65-66F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A03 London Ale
|
||
|
|
Classic Pale Ale strain, very dry. A powdery yeast with a hint of
|
||
|
|
diacetyl and a rich minerally profile, crisp and clean. Medium
|
||
|
|
attenuation and medium flocculation. 65-68F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A04 British Ale
|
||
|
|
This strain produces a great light bodied ale, excellent for Pale Ales and
|
||
|
|
Brown Ales, with a complex estery flavor. Ferments dry with a sharp
|
||
|
|
finish. Medium attenuation and medium flocculation. 65-68F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A05 Irish Ale
|
||
|
|
This top fermenting strain is ideal for Stouts and Porters. Slightly
|
||
|
|
acidic, with a hint of butterscotch in the finish, soft and full bodied.
|
||
|
|
High attenuation, high flocculation. 65-68F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A06 Dusseldorf Ale
|
||
|
|
German Altbier yeast strain finishes with full body, complex flavor and
|
||
|
|
spicy sweetness. Medium attenuation, high flocculation. 65-68F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A07 Canadian Ale
|
||
|
|
This strain produces a light bodied, clean and flavorful beer, very fruity
|
||
|
|
when fermented cool. High attenuation, high flocculation. Good for light
|
||
|
|
and cream ales. 65-66F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A08 Trappist Ale
|
||
|
|
This is a typical Belgian strain, producing a malty flavor with a balance
|
||
|
|
of fruity, phenolic overtones when fermented warm. Alcohol tolerant, high
|
||
|
|
attenuation and high flocculation. 64-70F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab A09 English Ale
|
||
|
|
A old English brewery strain, this clean yeast is fairly neutral in
|
||
|
|
character, producing a fruity, soft and estery finish. A vigorous
|
||
|
|
fermenter. 64-66F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 3: LAGER YEAST (Saccharomyces uvarum)
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Dry Lager Yeast: (Generally not recommended--tend to be inconsistent).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Liquid Lager Yeast: Much preferred over dry types!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-600 Original Pilsner
|
||
|
|
Leaves a full bodied Lager with a sweet, underattenuated finish and
|
||
|
|
subdued diacetyl character. Use in classic Czechoslovakian Pilsners or
|
||
|
|
any lager you want to emphasize a big, malty palate.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-620 American Megabrewey
|
||
|
|
A smooth yeast with a slightly fruity character when fresh which lagers
|
||
|
|
into a smooth clean tasting beer. Use for your lightest, cleanest Lagers
|
||
|
|
or those in which you want an unobtrusive yeast character.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-630 American Microbrewey Lager
|
||
|
|
A strong fermenter, leaving a clean, full flavored, malty finish.
|
||
|
|
Slightly attenuative, this yeast is a very versatile for most lager
|
||
|
|
styles. Use in all Lager styles you wish to have a clean full flavor.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-650 Old Bavarian Lager
|
||
|
|
Well rounded and malty with a subtle ester complex and citrus undertones.
|
||
|
|
This distinct, flavorful yeast is a great for full flavored, classic German
|
||
|
|
lagers such as Bock, Dunkle and Helles styles.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-660 N. German Lager
|
||
|
|
Exhibits a clean, crisp, traditional Lager character. A strong fermenting
|
||
|
|
and forgiving Lager yeast. This is an excellent yeast for general purpose
|
||
|
|
Lager brewing. Use in German Pilsners, Mexican and Canadian Lagers.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-680 East European Lager
|
||
|
|
Imparts a smooth, rich, almost creamy character, emphasizing a big malt
|
||
|
|
flavor and clean finish. Our choice when brewing lagers in which the malt
|
||
|
|
character should be full and smooth, as in Marzen\Oktoberfests.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-690 California Esteem
|
||
|
|
Use to recreate "California common beers" leaves a slightly estery, well
|
||
|
|
attenuated finish. The character of this yeast is quite distinct, try it
|
||
|
|
in American or robust Porters for a new and unique flavor profile.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2007 Pilsen Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Specific for pilsner style beers. Ferments dry, crisp, clean and light.
|
||
|
|
Medium flocculation. Apparent attenuation from 71-75%. Optimum
|
||
|
|
fermentation temperature: 52 deg. F (11 deg. C). It is worth
|
||
|
|
mentioning that this yeast strain is reportedly used quite a bit in
|
||
|
|
St. Louis, if you know what I mean ;^). Wyeast 2007 is reported to have
|
||
|
|
the slight apple like flavors that distinguish all AB products. One
|
||
|
|
person reported using this in a steam beer with good results.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2035 American Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Unlike American pilsner styles. It is bold, complex and woody. Produces
|
||
|
|
slight diacetyl. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-77%.
|
||
|
|
Optimum fermentation temperature: 50 deg.F (10 deg.C). This yeast
|
||
|
|
allegedly is the on used by August Schell in New Ulm, MN. Wyeast 2035
|
||
|
|
is reported to have raspberry notes if fermented at 65F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2042 Danish Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Rich, yet crisp and dry. Soft, light profile which accentuates hop
|
||
|
|
characteristics. Flocculation is low, apparent attenuation is 73-77%.
|
||
|
|
Optimum fermentation temperature: 48 deg.F (9 deg.C).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2112 California Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Warm fermenting bottom cropping strain, ferments well to 62 deg.F (17
|
||
|
|
deg.C) while keeping lager characteristics. Malty profile, highly
|
||
|
|
flocculant, clear brilliantly. Apparent attenuation 72-76%. Allegedly,
|
||
|
|
the Anchor steam yeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Ferments clean and malty, rich residual maltiness in high gravity
|
||
|
|
pilsners, medium flocculation, apparent attenuation 69-73%. Optimum
|
||
|
|
fermentation temperature: 48 deg.F (9 deg.C). Allegedly, one of the
|
||
|
|
four (?) Pilsner Urquell yeasts, although that is the subject of much
|
||
|
|
dispute. It is the same as Weihensephen 34/70. The source for this
|
||
|
|
is in Brewing Techniques 2nd edition article on Octoberfest Beer, which
|
||
|
|
quotes no less an authority than Dave at Wyeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2178 Wyeast Lager Blend
|
||
|
|
Comes in the new 80 gram (50 liter) packages.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2206 Bavarian Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Lager yeast strain used by many German breweries. Rich flavor, full
|
||
|
|
bodied, malty and clean. Medium flocculation, apparent attenuation
|
||
|
|
73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 48 deg.F (9 deg.C). Wyeast
|
||
|
|
2206 is good for bocks. It is reported to be a slow starter. Very
|
||
|
|
phenolic at high temps (>65 deg C).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2278 Czech Pils Yeast
|
||
|
|
Classic dry finish with rich maltiness. Good choice for pilsners and
|
||
|
|
bock beers. Sulpher produced during fermentation dissipates with
|
||
|
|
conditioning.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2308 Munich Lager Yeast
|
||
|
|
Lager yeast #308 from Wissenschaftliche in Munich. One of the first pure
|
||
|
|
yeast available to American home brewers. Sometimes unstable, but smooth
|
||
|
|
soft well rounded and full bodied. Medium flocculation, apparent
|
||
|
|
attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation temperature: 50 deg.F (10
|
||
|
|
deg.C). One report of an intense off aroma (like home perm solution)
|
||
|
|
with this yeast fermented at 45-50F but it miraculously disappeared after
|
||
|
|
four months aging in the bottle at 40F. Wissenschaftliche #308 is also
|
||
|
|
known as "weisenheimer". It is reported to be complex, prone to diacetyl,
|
||
|
|
and more likely to bring out hop flavor than Wyeast 2206.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 2565 Kolsh (sic.) Yeast
|
||
|
|
A hybrid of Ale and Lager characteristics. This strain develops
|
||
|
|
excellent maltiness with subdued fruitiness, with a crisp finish.
|
||
|
|
Ferments well at moderate temperatures.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit L09
|
||
|
|
From Bavaria, Germany. VSU: American Dark Lager, American Lager, Bavarian
|
||
|
|
Dark, Doppelbock, Dortmund/Export, Eisbock, German Bock, German Lagers,
|
||
|
|
German Schwarzbier, Hellesbock, Munich Helles, Marzen/Octoberfest,
|
||
|
|
Pilsner. (Must be some yeast! :-)
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit L17
|
||
|
|
From Pilsen, Czechoslovakia. VSU: American Lagers, Bohemian Pilsner.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab L31 Pilsner Lager
|
||
|
|
This classic strain produces a light lager in both flavor and body,
|
||
|
|
fermenting dry and clean. High attenuation and medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
50-52F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab L32 Bavarian Lager
|
||
|
|
Use this classic strain for medium bodied lagers and bocks, as well as
|
||
|
|
Vienna and Marzen styles, rich in flavor with a clean, malty sweetness.
|
||
|
|
Medium attenuation and medium flocculation. 50-52F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab L33 Munich Lager
|
||
|
|
German brewing strain for medium bodied lagers and bocks, subtle and
|
||
|
|
complex flavors, smooth and soft, a hint of sulfur when fresh. Medium
|
||
|
|
attenuation and medium flocculation. 48-50F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab L34 St. Louis Lager
|
||
|
|
This strain produces a round, very crisp and clean fruity flavor, with
|
||
|
|
medium body. High attenuation and medium flocculation. Good for
|
||
|
|
American style lagers. 50-52F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab L35 California Lager
|
||
|
|
A California common beer strain, malty with a sweet, woody flavor and
|
||
|
|
subtle fruitiness. Medium attenuation and high flocculation. 64-66F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 4: WEISSEN, LAMBIC, MEAD, AND BARLEYWINE STYLES.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-900 Belgian Wheat
|
||
|
|
A top fermenting yeast which produces a soft, bread like flavor and leaves
|
||
|
|
a sweet, mildly estery finish. Lends its delicious Belgian character to
|
||
|
|
any beer, it is best when made with Belgian Pils, and finished with
|
||
|
|
Coriander and orange peel.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-920 German Wheat
|
||
|
|
A true, top fermenting Weizenbier yeast. Intensely Spicy, clovey and
|
||
|
|
phenolic. This yeast is highly attenuative and flocks in large, loose
|
||
|
|
clumps. Use for All Weizen recipes and is particularly good in
|
||
|
|
Wiezenbocks.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-930 German Weiss
|
||
|
|
Milder than our German Wheat #1, our 930 strain, from a famous German
|
||
|
|
yeast bank, still produces the sought after clove and phenol characters
|
||
|
|
but to a lesser degree, with a fuller, earthier character underneath.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-980 American White Ale
|
||
|
|
A smooth wheat beer yeast with an exceptionally round, clean malt flavor.
|
||
|
|
The poor flocculation of this yeast leaves a cloudy "Hefe-Weizen" yet
|
||
|
|
it's smooth flavor makes it an integral part of a true unfiltered wheat
|
||
|
|
beer.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-5200 Brettanomyces lambicus
|
||
|
|
Wild yeast strain associated with the country-side breweries of Belgian.
|
||
|
|
This yeast is an important contributor to the flavor profile of lambic
|
||
|
|
beers and contributes a unique and complex flavor sometimes described as
|
||
|
|
"horsey" or "old leather." A slow-growing yeast which takes several weeks
|
||
|
|
to ferment and develop its unique character.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brewtek CL-5600 Pediococcus damnosus
|
||
|
|
Lactic acid producing bacteria found in lambic beers. This is is a
|
||
|
|
slow-growing bacteria which prefers anaerobic (no oxygen) conditions. It
|
||
|
|
is also common brewery contaminant which produces large amounts of
|
||
|
|
diacetyl.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3056 Bavarian Weissen Yeast
|
||
|
|
A 50/50 blend of S. cerevisiae and delbrueckii to produce a south German
|
||
|
|
style wheat beer with cloying sweetness when the beer is fresh. Medium
|
||
|
|
flocculation, apparent attenuation 73-77%. Optimum fermentation
|
||
|
|
temperature: 56 deg.F (13 deg.C). Problematic to get the right flavor,
|
||
|
|
often just produces relatively unattenuated beer, without the clove-like
|
||
|
|
aroma/flavor. Perhaps it's the freshness of the Wyeast #3056 that makes
|
||
|
|
the difference in whether you get the clove-like aroma/flavor or not.
|
||
|
|
Wyeast appears to be selecting a better, "truer" weissen yeast to replace
|
||
|
|
this quirky halfbreed.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3068 Wheinstephen Wheat Yeast
|
||
|
|
Saccharomyces delbrukii single strain culture for German wheat beers.
|
||
|
|
This is the better, "truer" weissen yeast that they selected. Initial
|
||
|
|
reports are very positive.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3944 Belgian White Beer Yeast.
|
||
|
|
Rich phenolic character for classic Belgian styles including grand cru.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3273 Brettanomyces bruxellensis.
|
||
|
|
Belgian lambic style yeast with rich earth odiferous character and acidic
|
||
|
|
finish.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit M01
|
||
|
|
From Bavaria, Germany. VSU: American Wheat?, Dunkel Weizen, German
|
||
|
|
Weizen, Weizenbock. Although the vendor lists American Wheat as a
|
||
|
|
suggested style, it appears to produce too much clove taste for that;
|
||
|
|
however, that does make it excellent for the Bavarian Weizens! After all,
|
||
|
|
it is a Bavarian yeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab W51 Bavarian Weizen
|
||
|
|
This strain produces a classic German style wheat beer, with moderately
|
||
|
|
high, spicy phenolic overtones reminiscent of cloves. Medium attenuation,
|
||
|
|
moderately flocculant. 66-70F. Evidently much more consistent than
|
||
|
|
Wyeast at producing a true Weizen flavor.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab W52 Belgian Wheat
|
||
|
|
Yeast used in the production of Belgian White beer (Wit). This strain
|
||
|
|
provides a soft elegant finish with moderate esters and mild, spicy
|
||
|
|
phenols. 66-70F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Mike Sharp also reports that special lambic cultures (Brettanomyces and
|
||
|
|
Pediococcus) are available from the Yeast Culture Kit Co., even though they
|
||
|
|
were not on the flyer I received. Those interested should call and ask!
|
||
|
|
Be aware that some suppliers may not consider lambic strains to be of wide
|
||
|
|
interest, so ask your favorite supplier. If enough people ask, the supply
|
||
|
|
is bound to increase. Good luck you lambicophiles! I own no stock etc, etc.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Mead Yeast
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab M61 Dry Mead
|
||
|
|
Very alcohol tolerant, ferments dry, fruity and clean, yet leaves a
|
||
|
|
noticeable honey flavor and aroma. 65-70F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Lab M62 Sweet Mead
|
||
|
|
This strain has slightly reduced alcohol tolerance and produces a very
|
||
|
|
fruity, sweet mead with tremendous honey aromas. 65-70F.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wine Yeast
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Lallemand Lalvin Wine Yeast S. Bayanus.
|
||
|
|
Good reputation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Red Star Pasteur Champagne Yeast
|
||
|
|
Very attenuative. Good for mead. Good reputation. Popular yeast for
|
||
|
|
Imperial Stouts and Barleywines due to it's high tolerance for alcohol.
|
||
|
|
Some use it by itself, others pitch Pasteur after their chosen beer yeast
|
||
|
|
poops out.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3021 Prise de mousse Champagne Yeast
|
||
|
|
Institute Pasteur champagne yeast race bayanus. Crisp and dry, ideal for
|
||
|
|
sparkling and still red, white and fruit wines. Also can be used for
|
||
|
|
Barleywines. Optimum fermentation temperature: 58 deg.F (14 deg.C).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 3028 Wine Yeast
|
||
|
|
French wine yeast ideally suited for red and white wines which mature
|
||
|
|
rapidly. Enhances the fruity characteristics of most wines. Optimum
|
||
|
|
fermentation temperature: 72 deg.F (22 deg.C).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast 4007 Wine Yeast
|
||
|
|
Malo-lactic culture blend isolated from western Oregon wineries. Includes
|
||
|
|
strains Ey2d and Er1a. Excellent for high acid wines and low pH. Softens
|
||
|
|
wines by converting harsh malic acid to milder lactic acid. Can be added
|
||
|
|
to juice any time after the onset of yeast fermentation when sulfur
|
||
|
|
dioxide is less than 15 ppm.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Yeast Culture Kit M06
|
||
|
|
From Montreal, Canada. VSU: Barley Wine (Champagne).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
============================================================================
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
SECTION III: YEAST MANAGEMENT
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 1: HYDRATION PROCEDURE FOR DRY YEAST
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
a. Use 14 grams of dry yeast (usually 2 packets) per 5 gallons of brew.
|
||
|
|
***Rigorously*** sterilize everything used in the hydration procedure.
|
||
|
|
This should include boiling and cooling the water for rehydration, so that
|
||
|
|
chlorine is boiled off and the water is sanitized.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
b. Add the dry yeast to 1/2 cup of water at 90F (32C). Leave for 15 mins.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
c. Combine the hydrated yeast with 1-2 gallons of wort that is as close to
|
||
|
|
the wort to be fermented as possible. You can take samples from the main
|
||
|
|
wort at the end of the mash/sparge and rapidly boil and cool it.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
d. Aerate this wort as much as possible under sanitary conditions.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
e. Don't forget to properly oxygenate the main wort once it is *chilled*.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
f. Pitch the starter into the main wort once the latter has been chilled to
|
||
|
|
the recommended fermentation temperature (65-68F or 18-20C). Yeast with
|
||
|
|
good viability will result in minimal lags. (The longest experienced in
|
||
|
|
test brews using the new Red Star Ale Yeast was 2 hrs.)
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
An alternative but slightly sub-optimal method is to cool the yeast-in-
|
||
|
|
water from "b" to room temperature. Once the wort has been chilled and
|
||
|
|
aerated (shaking the carboy works well), pitch the yeast. Stir or invert the
|
||
|
|
carboy to disperse the yeast. Put in the blow-off tube or fermentation lock.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
The two most essential things are to:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
1. Sanitize everything in sight.
|
||
|
|
2. Aerate your wort to insure rapid initial yeast growth--your best
|
||
|
|
defense against secondary infection.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 2: PROPAGATION OF YEAST STRAINS or
|
||
|
|
HOW TO HAVE YOUR VERY OWN YEAST RANCH!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
I am deeply indebted to George Fix for both giving me these chapters and
|
||
|
|
letting me alter and condense them for the homebrewer. His support was an
|
||
|
|
essential impetus for getting this FAQ off the ground.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
A. General Comments
|
||
|
|
There is no single item as important as the selection of a yeast strain,
|
||
|
|
or if appropriate strains, to be used in commercial brewing. The same
|
||
|
|
applies to homebrewing. Sensory characteristics---taste and smell---will
|
||
|
|
normally determine the type of yeast that is appropriate to any particular
|
||
|
|
beer formulation. This section contains the necessary procedures for
|
||
|
|
achieving self-sufficiency in pitching yeast. The part treated in this
|
||
|
|
section is often called the Hansen pure culture system. The heart of this
|
||
|
|
system is the so-called "yeast slant". It is a test tube containing a
|
||
|
|
solidified media sloped at an angle. Often Petri dishes are used, but the
|
||
|
|
media is level, and hence the term "slant" is not always appropriate. In any
|
||
|
|
case, yeast cells are streaked on the surface of the solid media. When
|
||
|
|
refrigerated, these slants will keep at least 3-4 months before they have to
|
||
|
|
be recultured. Yeast are taken from the slants, and built up so there is
|
||
|
|
enough to pitch a full batch. The system also contains procedures for doing
|
||
|
|
the exact opposite, i.e., adding yeast to slants for storage and future use.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
B. Equipment
|
||
|
|
The equipment needs for operating a pure culture system with slants are
|
||
|
|
rather modest. The following are the major items.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
1. Refrigerator. This is needed for slant and media storage.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
2. Autoclave or pressure cooker. This will be needed to sterilize equipment
|
||
|
|
and media for yeast work. A pressure cooker will do, but it should have
|
||
|
|
a pressure gauge attached so that the conditions during sterilization can
|
||
|
|
be controlled.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
3. Media. The preferred media for slants is malt extract and agar. These
|
||
|
|
can be obtained from any scientific outlet. Food grade agar is also
|
||
|
|
available from some oriental markets. The flaked form is easier to work
|
||
|
|
with.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
4. Misc. A number of minor items will also be needed. These include
|
||
|
|
inoculation loops, glassware, petri dishes, and test tubes.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
C. Propagation of Yeast
|
||
|
|
This process consists of transferring some of the yeast on slants to a
|
||
|
|
small flask or jar containing wort, then building this up until there is
|
||
|
|
enough to pitch a full brew. The most delicate steps are the initial ones.
|
||
|
|
Experience has shown that the best results are obtained by using full
|
||
|
|
strength hopped wort for propagating yeast. The ideal situation is when the
|
||
|
|
wort used in propagation is identical to the wort that will be used in
|
||
|
|
brewing.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Practical experience has also shown that it is best to pitch yeast freshly
|
||
|
|
harvested from slants at the maximum acceptable rate. Anticipating the
|
||
|
|
results in the next section, this for lager yeast amounts to pitching 1
|
||
|
|
volume of yeast *SOLIDS* for each 250 volumes of wort. Thus, we need
|
||
|
|
5gal/250 = 0.02gal*128oz/gal = 2.5oz of yeast solids for a 5 gallon batch.
|
||
|
|
Using the estimation that yeast solids are 1/10 the total volume of a yeast
|
||
|
|
culture after the krauesen dies down (i.e. just entering lag phase), that
|
||
|
|
means that one need about 25oz or a little more than 3 cups culture. For
|
||
|
|
ale yeast all of these numbers are reduced by a factor of two, so (3/2) to
|
||
|
|
2 cups of an ale yeast culture would be sufficient.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
In the procedure described below new wort is added just after the end of
|
||
|
|
the period of high krauesen, and in particular after the foam starts to
|
||
|
|
recede. The reason for this is to keep the yeast in the aerobic exponential
|
||
|
|
growth mode. This will insure a steady buildup of yeast cells, and thereby
|
||
|
|
minimize the number of wort charges that are required. The importance of
|
||
|
|
taking great care when adding fresh wort can not be overemphasized. To avoid
|
||
|
|
infections not only is it necessary to properly sanitize equipment, but it
|
||
|
|
also important to sterilize necks of vessels and jars by flame or 70% alcohol
|
||
|
|
solutions. The easiest way to flame a jar at home is with a lighter (esp.
|
||
|
|
the ones for pipe-smokers!). Be extremely careful, and don't use both
|
||
|
|
alcohol and a lighter unless you enjoy the smell of burning hair--Eyebrow
|
||
|
|
flambe, Opa!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
The first four steps described below are done under the cleanest
|
||
|
|
conditions possible using 1000 ml. starter jars. At the end of step (iv)
|
||
|
|
there will invariably be more than enough yeast in each starter jar to pitch
|
||
|
|
a 25 liter brew (about 6 gal); i.e., there will be at least 1/10 liter of
|
||
|
|
yeast solids as can be checked by visual inspection. These numbers are based
|
||
|
|
on the requirement of lager yeast. As will be seen below there will be no
|
||
|
|
harm in producing too much yeast in this procedure since at the end only the
|
||
|
|
correct amount will be added to the fermenter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(i) Preparations:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
a. Carefully inspect all the slants that are to be propagated. Those which
|
||
|
|
have unusual growth patterns and/or discoloration should be discarded.
|
||
|
|
The ideal is thin white yeast layer on top of the solid media.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
b. Autoclave the starter jars and the rubber stoppers for the airlocks for 5
|
||
|
|
mins. at 15 psi. Alternatively, use your favorite chemical sanitizing
|
||
|
|
agent.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
c. Add 250 ml. (about 8 oz) of wort to each starter jar. Wipe their necks
|
||
|
|
with 70% alcohol solution. After this add the airlocks.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
d. Pasteurize the wort by adding the starter jars to a water bath at 60C
|
||
|
|
(140F), and hold this temperature for 20 mins. Cool to 18 C (75 F).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
e. In a clean room with no air movement (turn off fans and air conditioning
|
||
|
|
for at least 15 min to give the dust a chance to settle), place starter
|
||
|
|
jars, yeast slants, inoculation loops, and a 70% alcohol solution in a
|
||
|
|
clean, quiet spot (i.e. lock the door after first insuring that Fido,
|
||
|
|
Fluffy, and Junior are on the other side of it :-) !).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(ii) Inoculation:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
For each jar, start by sterilizing its neck. Then sterilize ("flame")
|
||
|
|
the inoculation loop. Open a slant, quench the loop in clean agar
|
||
|
|
("sizzle") and use the loop to remove some yeast. Remove the airlock and
|
||
|
|
then add the yeast to the starter jar. Replace the airlock, and then start
|
||
|
|
work on the next jar.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iii) Initial Buildup:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
a. Place the starter jars in a location where 68F (18C can be held).
|
||
|
|
Resuspend the yeast twice daily by vigorously swirling the jars. 1L
|
||
|
|
Erlenmeyer flasks are excellent for this purpose because they permit
|
||
|
|
vigorous swirling without getting the wort up by the neck and opening.
|
||
|
|
Also good--and more fun to prepare, *Hic* :-) --are 1.5L ex-wine bottles.
|
||
|
|
The wine bottles are also cheaper, even with the wine. But be careful
|
||
|
|
heating them--I have not used them, and I forget who recommended them as
|
||
|
|
an alternative!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
b. A widely used practice is to discard any starter that is not active within
|
||
|
|
4 hours. Certainly if some of the starters are active within this period,
|
||
|
|
then the inactive ones should be discarded. In any case, any starter not
|
||
|
|
active within 7 hours should definitely be discarded even if this means
|
||
|
|
they are all discarded.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iv) Second Wort Charge
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
a. When the foam has receded prepare 250ml. of fresh sterile and aerated wort
|
||
|
|
for each starter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
b. The new wort is to be added to each starter, and this should be done as
|
||
|
|
cleanly as possible.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
c. Before pouring the wort into the starters, it is very important to swab
|
||
|
|
the necks of the starter jar and the wort jar with a 70% alcohol solution
|
||
|
|
to prevent contamination or flame them with a lighter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
d. It is also desirable to reduce the temperature to a point closer to the
|
||
|
|
temperature that will be used in production if that is lower than 18 C.
|
||
|
|
The temperature should be reduced *slowly*, e.g. few degrees a day.
|
||
|
|
Large shifts in temperature (>10 deg F or >5 deg C) can shock the yeast
|
||
|
|
and cause marked slowing of yeast growth.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
e. The starters should be swirled at the start and then again after 12 hours.
|
||
|
|
New activity should be seen before 24 hrs. Those which are not active
|
||
|
|
within 36-48 hours should be discarded.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
f. Increase the volume of wort until you have sufficient volume to pitch.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(v) Pitching the Yeast
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
a. At this time you should have a jar with about 500ml (a little more than 2
|
||
|
|
cups) of yeast for a 5 gal ale batch. I would suggest pitching *just
|
||
|
|
after* the krausen (foam) dies down, the logic being that the yeast have
|
||
|
|
amassed glycogen reserves and are at their healthiest. Some other sources
|
||
|
|
recommend pitching at high krausen, reasoning that the yeast are in the
|
||
|
|
exponential growth phase. Whatever you do, avoid overdilution and keep
|
||
|
|
accurate notes. The total volume will vary with batch size, yeast type,
|
||
|
|
and your personal experience/whim. Remember to keep yeast notes along
|
||
|
|
with your beer notes so that you can learn from experience!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
b. Clean the outside of the jar with 70% alcohol or weak bleach and allow
|
||
|
|
to dry.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
c. Pour the yeast slurry carefully into the primary.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
D. Preparation of New Slants
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Two steps are needed in the preparation of new slants. The first consists
|
||
|
|
of adding the proper media to test tubes or petri dishes. Once prepared the
|
||
|
|
slants will store well far a very long time when refrigerated, so many can be
|
||
|
|
prepared at one time. The second step consists of inoculating the slants
|
||
|
|
with yeast.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
For the homebrewer who cannot afford several refrigerators: Please be
|
||
|
|
advised that your refrigerator is a haven for bacteria, mold, and wild yeast.
|
||
|
|
Anyone wishing to store sterile slants in their refrigerator is advised to:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
1. Wipe down the slants before storage with ethanol or your favorite
|
||
|
|
sanitizing solution.
|
||
|
|
2. Seal the slants with parafilm or electrical tape.
|
||
|
|
3. Keep the slants in a ziplock bag.
|
||
|
|
4. Wipe down the bag with ethanol or your favorite sanitizing solution
|
||
|
|
before opening.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(i) The media consists of dry malt extract and agar. As a general rule 4
|
||
|
|
tablespoons of malt extract and 1 tablespoon of agar per cup of water will
|
||
|
|
yield 16-18 slants.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(ii) Bring the water to a boil, and then stir in the malt extract. Boil for
|
||
|
|
10 mins.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iii) Remove from heat, and then start stirring in the agar. This will take
|
||
|
|
some effort, but this usually indicates that a good solidification will
|
||
|
|
ultimately be achieved. If your slants "sweat" too much, you may want to
|
||
|
|
increase the amount of agar you use. Although commercial/scientific agar
|
||
|
|
will vary little, I cannot answer for "food grade" supplies. Gelatin is
|
||
|
|
easier to dissolve, but it sometimes does not give a good solidification.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iv) When the agar is dissolved, the malt/agar solution should be added to
|
||
|
|
the test tubes, filling each to approximately a third of their volume. Add
|
||
|
|
the screw cap, but do not fully tighten.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(v) Autoclave the tubes at 15 psi for 15-20 mins.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(vi) Allow the tubes to cool. Don't tighten the caps until they are cool or
|
||
|
|
the may *implode*! Although this sounds fun, in reality, flying glass shards
|
||
|
|
and hot agar blobs are a nasty combo. They can be left overnight in the
|
||
|
|
autoclave/pressure-cooker so that they can cool in a sterile environment.
|
||
|
|
Tighten the cap on the tubes, and place the tubes at a 30 degree angle.
|
||
|
|
Allow them to solidify at room temperature. Solidification should become
|
||
|
|
apparent within a few hours. Tubes which are not solid after 24 hrs. should
|
||
|
|
be discarded.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(vii) Refrigerate until needed, heeding storage precautions above.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Note: Plastic petri dishes cannot be autoclaved, and so alternate procedures
|
||
|
|
are needed for them. You may use the above techniques with *pyrex* petri
|
||
|
|
dishes if you so desire. A common practice is to autoclave the malt/agar
|
||
|
|
solution in small jars or flasks. The agar solution is then poured into the
|
||
|
|
petri dishes.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Let the agar cool until the jars are just slightly too hot to handle bare
|
||
|
|
handed--about 50 deg C; the media will start to set around 40 degrees. If
|
||
|
|
the agar is too hot it will warp plastic plates. Swirl it gently to mix but
|
||
|
|
avoid bubbles. A few bubbles around the edges are unimportant, but sometime
|
||
|
|
the whole surface of the plate is bubbles. You can pop the bubbles with the
|
||
|
|
flame of a lighter! Or use a hot inoculation loop. DO NOT use your finger
|
||
|
|
or blow on the plates. Let the poured plates dry 2 or 3 days in a clean
|
||
|
|
quiet room before bagging. Condensation is NORMAL, but you have to deal
|
||
|
|
with it. Once the plates have cooled, TURN THEM OVER (agar side on top)
|
||
|
|
and always incubate them and store them in this position. That way the
|
||
|
|
water vapor wafts into the agar and keeps it humid (slightly) and any
|
||
|
|
condensation that DOES form drops to the lid and can be shaken off. Wipe
|
||
|
|
them down, seal them, and bag them, but leave them at room temperature for
|
||
|
|
1 week. The bad bugs, if they are there, will be visually apparent at the
|
||
|
|
end of that period and the contaminated plates can be discarded. While
|
||
|
|
Petri dishes are more trouble than test tubes, they do offer the distinct
|
||
|
|
advantage of having more surface area and being easier to store. After the
|
||
|
|
trial period the dishes should be refrigerated.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Another Note: If you find *mold* (not wild yeast) contamination to be a
|
||
|
|
persistent problem, Pierre Jelenc <rcpj@panix.com> suggests:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
>From 0.5 to 1% sodium propionate in the medium will suppress practically all
|
||
|
|
>molds, without affecting the growth or viability of yeasts. The propionate
|
||
|
|
>can be either added before autoclaving, in which case the medium will turn
|
||
|
|
>cloudy, or as a sterile solution just before pouring the plates, in which
|
||
|
|
>case the medium will stay clear. There is no growth difference in either
|
||
|
|
>case. While not reinheitgebotmaessig, propionate is FDA-approved to
|
||
|
|
>prevent molds on foodstuffs.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Thanks Pierre!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Inoculation of Slants:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(i) Collect a small portion of the yeast to be added to the slants. It goes
|
||
|
|
without saying that one should strictly follow the standard sterilization
|
||
|
|
procedures of all items used to collect this yeast. I usually open a Wyeast
|
||
|
|
(or other brand) pouch, then streak a plate and make a starter at the same
|
||
|
|
time, that way I *know* what I am getting. Feel free to culture from the
|
||
|
|
dregs of your favorite unpastuerized brew or the roof of your favorite
|
||
|
|
Belgian monastery.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(ii) With one hand sterilize the inoculation loop (flame or alcohol
|
||
|
|
solution). With the other hand open the cap of a slant.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iii) Dip the loop into the yeast solution, and remove a small amount.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(iv) Slowly insert the loop into the tube avoiding contact with either the
|
||
|
|
side or neck of the tube. Streak the yeast over the solid. Only a thin
|
||
|
|
layer is wanted, and one should try to use as much of the surface area as
|
||
|
|
possible.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(v) Slowly remove the loop avoiding contact with tube walls or neck. Add the
|
||
|
|
screw cap back on the tube and tighten.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(vi) When finished store the tubes at 25 C for one week. Visually inspect
|
||
|
|
all tubes at this time both for yeast growth, and also for any irregularities
|
||
|
|
(see below). Discard those which are not satisfactory. Growth for most
|
||
|
|
Saccharomyces sp. should be evident within 3 days; Lambicophiles culturing
|
||
|
|
Brettanomyces sp. are on their own (actually, these typically grow slower,
|
||
|
|
about a week for the Brett--the species names have been withheld to protect
|
||
|
|
the innocent). Brett may actually be better maintained in liquid culture,
|
||
|
|
with an occasional streaking to check for gross contamination. Again, more
|
||
|
|
rumor and hearsay.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
(vii) Store the remainder at 2-8 C. After 3-4 mos. of storage, unused tubes
|
||
|
|
should either be discarded or recultured; i.e., propagated by the procedures
|
||
|
|
in Section III.2.c and then put on fresh slants. The best idea is to put
|
||
|
|
production yeast on slants on a regular basis so that reculturing is not
|
||
|
|
necessary.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Note: The larger surface area afforded by Petri dishes can be used to
|
||
|
|
advantage in the above procedure. In particular, it useful to streak out
|
||
|
|
yeast in parallel lines which make angles with each other. This allows for
|
||
|
|
a better examination of growth patterns. Petri dishes should be sealed after
|
||
|
|
the 1 week trial period with electrician's tape and refrigerated.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
How can you tell contaminants (mold and bacteria) from yeast? J. Wyllie (The
|
||
|
|
Coyote) slk6p@cc.usu.edu wrote in rec.crafts.brewing in answer to that
|
||
|
|
question (this has been slightly ammended) *Things to look for:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Colors: Creamy off white. (Red, yellow, etc. likely to be
|
||
|
|
contaminants)
|
||
|
|
Textures/Shapes: Mostly roundish, like a demi-sphere. (Fuzzy=bad
|
||
|
|
mold, flat=maybe bad).
|
||
|
|
Light Transmittance: Hold the plate up to the light. Look for colonies
|
||
|
|
which are transluscent. If there are opaque ones
|
||
|
|
(darker) consider them contaminants.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
You can still pick a pure colony off of a plate with a contaminant elsewhere
|
||
|
|
on the plate (unless you have fuzzy fungal hyphae and spores all over). The
|
||
|
|
main thing is that you want homogeneous growth on the plate. Variation is
|
||
|
|
something to be cautious of.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
|
PART 3: YEAST WASHING FOR THE HOMEBREWER
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Doug O'Brien forwarded the following to me. As it is a topic that pops up
|
||
|
|
frequently on the HBD, I have included it in this FAQ.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Post follows:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
The following notes were taken from a demonstration given to the Oregon Brew
|
||
|
|
Crew by Dave Logsdon of WYeast Labs, on September 12th. According to Dave,
|
||
|
|
it was important for healthy yeast to be washed free of trub and hop residue
|
||
|
|
so that it could be stored for future use. Dave said that the problem with
|
||
|
|
simply storing the mixed contents from a carboy after fermentation was that
|
||
|
|
the unwanted particulates would suffocate the yeast over a period of time.
|
||
|
|
Most breweries, Dave stressed, use an acid wash; the sterile water wash is
|
||
|
|
much more practical for homebrewers.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Objective: To recover yeast from a finished batch of beer for repitching or
|
||
|
|
storage for future brewing.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Materials: One primary fermenter after beer has been siphoned off or
|
||
|
|
otherwise removed.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Three sanitized 1-quart Mason jars with lids, half full of sterile or boiled
|
||
|
|
water. They should be cooled down, then chilled to refrigerator temperature
|
||
|
|
(ca 38^F).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Procedures:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
1) Sanitize the opening of the carboy (flame or wipe with chlorine or
|
||
|
|
alcohol).
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
2) Pour the water from one of the quart jars into the carboy. Swirl the
|
||
|
|
water to agitate the yeast, hop residue and trub from the bottom.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
3) Pour contents from the carboy back into the empty jar and replace the
|
||
|
|
cover.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
4) Agitate the jar to allow separation of the components. Continue to
|
||
|
|
agitate periodically until obvious separation is noticeable.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
5) While the viable yeast remains in suspension, pour off this portion into
|
||
|
|
the second jar. Be careful to leave as much of the hops and trub behind as
|
||
|
|
possible.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
6) Agitate the second container to again get as much separation of yeast from
|
||
|
|
particulate matter as possible. Allow contents to rest (about 1/2 hour to 1
|
||
|
|
hour) then pour off any excess water--and floating hop particles--from the
|
||
|
|
surface.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
7) Pour off yeast fraction which suspends above the particulate into the
|
||
|
|
third container.* Store this container up to 1 month refrigerated. Pour off
|
||
|
|
liquid and add wort 2 days before brewing or repitch into a new brew straight
|
||
|
|
away.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
*It should be noted that in the actual demonstration, Dave eliminated the
|
||
|
|
final step; the yeast in the second jar was essentially clean at this stage
|
||
|
|
and seemingly fine for storage.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Thomas Manteufel had the following comments:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
"...[I]t is best to use yeast from the secondary for this. The Primary
|
||
|
|
yeast is mixed with hops, trub, and other goop. I think this was mentioned
|
||
|
|
in Jeff's original posting in HBD 876, but is in Sheefal's article, same
|
||
|
|
digest. Sheefal also mentions just dumping the slurry (without any
|
||
|
|
washing) from the secondary into bottles and keeping them for months before
|
||
|
|
reusing them. Larry Barello posted additional instructions to Jeff's
|
||
|
|
yeast washing article in HBD 1157."
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Sounds like good advice to me, yeast ranchers! N.B. that it is the yeast
|
||
|
|
slurry from the *secondary* that Sheefal saves. This has presumably been
|
||
|
|
separated already from the "goop". If you are doing 1 stage ales, you
|
||
|
|
probably should do the whole wash routine.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 4: PARALLEL YEAST CULTURES
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Rick Cavasin sent me (PW) the following method of "parallel" culturing liquid
|
||
|
|
yeasts. This should work with most packaged liquid yeasts, not just Wyeast.
|
||
|
|
The advantages here for the beginner are that (in addition to saving money)
|
||
|
|
it minimizes the problems of strain drift and contamination that can plague
|
||
|
|
yeast ranchers. As for the savings, it makes liquid yeast almost as cheap as
|
||
|
|
dry yeast!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Post follows:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Here's the (poor man's) method for stretching the Wyeast that I (Rick) have
|
||
|
|
been using successfully. This method has worked for me with 4 different
|
||
|
|
Wyeast ale strains (Whitbread, Irish, German, European). It's simple and
|
||
|
|
requires no special equipment. Also, it allows several brewers to swap
|
||
|
|
yeasts with each brewer propagating one strain.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Briefly, my suggestion consists of converting the original Wyeast package
|
||
|
|
into number of 'copies' stored in beer bottles. i.e. it is a parallel
|
||
|
|
propagation rather than a serial propagation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Step 1: Prepare some starter wort (S.G. = 1.020), see Miller's book for
|
||
|
|
recipe. Basically, you need about 1/2 gallon, but if you make more and can
|
||
|
|
it in mason jars (using standard canning procedures), you will not have to
|
||
|
|
prepare more at later date.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Note from PW--Most authorities now recommend using full strength (1.040),
|
||
|
|
hopped wort for starters.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Step 2: Place 1/2 gallon or so of starter wort in a suitable container (1
|
||
|
|
gallon glass jug), pitch (inflated) Wyeast package at correct temp. and fit
|
||
|
|
air lock. This is the 'master' starter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Step 3: Allow to ferment to *completion*. When fermentation has ceased,
|
||
|
|
agitate the 'beer' to suspend all sediment, and very carefully bottle it.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
You will now have about 6 bottles of very thin beer with a good deal of
|
||
|
|
viable yeast sediment in each bottle. Use each bottle as you would use a
|
||
|
|
package of Wyeast---ie. prepare a starter culture a couple days before
|
||
|
|
brewing. This is facilitated by canning wort when you prepare the master
|
||
|
|
starter. All you need to in that case is pop open a mason jar of wort, dump
|
||
|
|
it into a sanitized bottle/jug of appropriate size, pop open one of your
|
||
|
|
bottle cultures, add it, agitate vigorously, and fit an air lock.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
All yeast starters are of the same 'generation', i.e. 'twice removed' from the
|
||
|
|
original Wyeast package (as opposed to the usual 'once removed'). I've had
|
||
|
|
the bottled cultures remain viable for more than 6 months.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Observe proper sanitation and wort aeration procedures thoughout.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Equipment: 1 gallon jug (for 'master' starter)
|
||
|
|
1.5 liter wine bottle (for subsequent starters)
|
||
|
|
air lock
|
||
|
|
6 beer bottles, caps and capper
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Optional equipment: mason jars and canning pot.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Cheers, Rick C.
|
||
|
|
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
|
PART 5: SEND YEAST THROUGH THE MAIL!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
The following technique is reproduced as is from the pages of the HBD; it
|
||
|
|
sounds like an interesting and useful method. Now, if someone could only
|
||
|
|
figure out how to send yeast by e-mail!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
From: drose@husc.harvard.edu Subject: Mailing Strains
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
.. I thought it worth mentioning that there is a cheaper alternative to agar
|
||
|
|
slants for mailing strains, and it works just as well. We routinely send out
|
||
|
|
laboratory strains on filter paper. Basically, you just put a drop of
|
||
|
|
culture of a ~1 cm square piece of filter paper (probably any absorbent paper
|
||
|
|
would do) an wrap the square in a piece of sterile foil. Then pop it into an
|
||
|
|
envelope and send it off. When it gets to the other side, they drop the
|
||
|
|
paper on a rich media plate, incubate for a day or so, and the yeast grow up.
|
||
|
|
Then you streak for singles on another plate and you're set. I haven't
|
||
|
|
rigorously determined the viability of cells dried on paper, but they are
|
||
|
|
very stable. It works.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
I can think of two possible disadvantages to this system. First, we use
|
||
|
|
autoclaved paper and foil, and a surprising number of households STILL lack
|
||
|
|
an autoclave. However, while commercial paper is probably not sterile, I
|
||
|
|
imagine it is pretty close; the yeast are going to far outnumber anything
|
||
|
|
else, and when you streak for singles you will get what you want. The foil
|
||
|
|
you could always steam, but probably it would also be close enough to sterile
|
||
|
|
for most people's purposes. The second drawback is that this method requires
|
||
|
|
that you are set up to culture, and to streak for singles in particular.
|
||
|
|
However, while this isn't absolutely necessary in the case of slants, it is
|
||
|
|
certainly advisable. Anyway, just thought I'd throw it out there.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Dave Rose
|
||
|
|
Dept. of Cellular and Developmental Biology
|
||
|
|
Harvard U.
|
||
|
|
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
PART 6: CULTURING FROM COMMERCIAL BEERS
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
People have reported culturing yeast from the following beers (no doubt
|
||
|
|
many others have been tried---send me info good or bad):
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
GOOD RESULTS:
|
||
|
|
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (SN uses the same yeast for all their strains)
|
||
|
|
Chimay
|
||
|
|
Orval
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
BAD RESULTS
|
||
|
|
Stoudt's Stout yeast
|
||
|
|
Stoudt's Weizen
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Two people gave their methods:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
One (a cautious fellow) always streaks out bottle cultured yeast, picks
|
||
|
|
single colonies, and proceeds as described above.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
The other (a reckless, devil-may-care sort) pours all but 1" out of two
|
||
|
|
bottles of SNPA, :-), flames the tops of both bottles, swirls the remaining
|
||
|
|
beer and combines it in a jar with starter. Then he caps with an airlock
|
||
|
|
and proceeds as with a regular starter.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
=============================================================================
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
APPENDIX A: WILLIAM'S WYEAST EQUIVALENCIES
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
I don't really feel as though this data should be intercalated with the
|
||
|
|
information from the major distributors, especially because William's yeast
|
||
|
|
are packaged for them by Wyeast, but I thought I would include it in case
|
||
|
|
some people found it useful and because someone else had already typed it
|
||
|
|
in (can you say kill and yank?, I thought you could!). Enjoy!
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Brian (smithey@rmtc.Central.Sun.COM) sent me this missive:
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Following are the William's yeast "names", catalog item number from the
|
||
|
|
Spring '94 catalog, description, and what Brian believes to be the Wyeast
|
||
|
|
equivalent.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Abbey Ale - Y23 -
|
||
|
|
An ale yeast able to ferment high gravity ales (up to 1.080 S.G.)
|
||
|
|
leaving the beer with a slightly estery character typical of Belgian
|
||
|
|
Abbey ales. Attenuation: 71-75%, medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Belgian Ale, #1214
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Scottish Ale - Y32 -
|
||
|
|
A strain that leaves a rich, almost smoky and peaty character in ales.
|
||
|
|
Ideal for Scottish style ales, smoked beers, and high gravity ales.
|
||
|
|
Attenuation: 69-73%, high flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Scottish Ale, #1728
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
California Ale - Y24 -
|
||
|
|
A very neutral yeast which produces a clean-flavored ale, similar to the
|
||
|
|
strain used by several small California brewers. Attenuation: 73-77%,
|
||
|
|
low flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast American Ale, #1056
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
German Alt - Y18 -
|
||
|
|
German Alt generally has a sweeter, more malty flavor than British ale.
|
||
|
|
Our German Alt yeast ferments beer to a mild, almost sweet flavor, a bit
|
||
|
|
fruity in the aftertaste. Attenuation: 73-77%, high flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
This one is a bit puzzling, I would have guessed Wyeast #1338 except
|
||
|
|
for William's 73-77% attenuation; Wyeast 1338 is well known as an
|
||
|
|
unattenuative yeast (the Wyeast profile says 67-71%). I think it's
|
||
|
|
just a mistake in the William's catalog, I'm sticking with #1338.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Burton Ale - Y21 -
|
||
|
|
A traditional top-fermenting yeast that leaves a soft, almost bready
|
||
|
|
flavor in the finished ale. Attenuation 73-77%, medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast British Ale #1098
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
English Brewery Ale - Y19 -
|
||
|
|
Ferments to a drier finish than Burton Ale, and is fairly alcohol
|
||
|
|
resistant for beer yeast, being able to ferment worts with gravities
|
||
|
|
as high as 1.075. Attenuation: 71-75%, medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast London Ale #1028
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Cask Ale - Y31 -
|
||
|
|
A new strain that leaves a balanced fruitiness in ales. Ideal for
|
||
|
|
kegged beer, as settles out well. Attenuation: 67-71%, high
|
||
|
|
flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Special London / London ESB Ale, #1968
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wheat Beer - Y20 -
|
||
|
|
Our Wheat Beer yeast is actually two yeast strains in one pack, an ale
|
||
|
|
strain for traditional beer character and the Delbruckii strain for the
|
||
|
|
spicy, clove-like flavor of authentic wheat beer. This blend provides a
|
||
|
|
taste that has a hint of "wild" flavor while maintaining a traditional
|
||
|
|
beer taste. Attenuation: 73-77%, medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Bavarian Wheat #3056
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Delbruckii Wheat - Y27 -
|
||
|
|
The traditional pure wheat beer strain, for a wheat beer with a clove
|
||
|
|
character and sharp, somewhat sour, flavor profile. Attenuation: 73-77%,
|
||
|
|
low flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Wheinstephen Wheat #3068
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
German Kolsch - Y28 -
|
||
|
|
An ale strain that leaves a subtle, almost lager-like maltiness in beer,
|
||
|
|
with a trace of fruit overtones. Ideal in Kolsch-style beers and fruit
|
||
|
|
beers. Attenuation: 73-77%, low flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Kolsch #2565
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Czechoslovakian Pils - Y15 -
|
||
|
|
A true pilsner yeast with a dry finish that retains a rich malt character.
|
||
|
|
Attenuation: 70-74%, medium flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Pretty sure this is Wyeast Bohemian Lager #2124. Wyeast now also has Wyeast
|
||
|
|
Czech Pils #2278, but the William's catalog numbers for the "new" Wyeast
|
||
|
|
strains are in the high 20's / low 30's (Scottish = Y32, Cask = Y31, new
|
||
|
|
Wheat = 27, triple packs are 29 and 30); since this strain has a low catalog
|
||
|
|
number (Y15), it's pretty certainly 2124 rather than 2278.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
American Lager - Y17 -
|
||
|
|
Produces a clean lager with minimal added flavor. Attenuation: 71-75%,
|
||
|
|
medium flocculation. This strain is very temperature sensitive, and we
|
||
|
|
do not recommend that you order it in the hot months, from June through
|
||
|
|
September.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast American Lager #2035
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Bay Area Lager - Y25 -
|
||
|
|
A strain ideal for fermenting lager at warmer (60F - 70F) temperatures.
|
||
|
|
Produces a cleaner beer at warmer temperatures than other lager yeasts.
|
||
|
|
Attenuation: 72-76%, high flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast California Lager #2112
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Munich Lager - Y26 -
|
||
|
|
Less spicy in character than our Bavarian Lager, our Munich Lager
|
||
|
|
accentuates the malty flavor of lager. Attenuation: 73-77%, medium
|
||
|
|
flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Munich Lager #2308 (Wissenschaftliche #308)
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Bavarian Lager - Y22 -
|
||
|
|
Ferments to a full-flavored, crisp finish without the soft bready flavor
|
||
|
|
of some of the more delicate lager yeasts. Attenuation: 73-77%, medium
|
||
|
|
flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast Bavarian Lager #2206
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Triple Pack Ale (80 ml) - Y29 -
|
||
|
|
A blend of 3 ale yeasts in a larger 80 ml pouch pack. The first strain
|
||
|
|
is a rapid starting yeast, the second imparts a classic ale flavor, while
|
||
|
|
the third is a highly flocculant strain which clears the beer
|
||
|
|
exceptionally well. Attenuation: 71-75%, high flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast #1087
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Triple Pack Lager (80 ml) - Y30 - Like our Triple Pack Ale above, Triple
|
||
|
|
Pack Lager combines three strains for a quick start, rounded lager flavor,
|
||
|
|
and fast settling. Attenuation: 71-75%, medium to high flocculation.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Wyeast #2178
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
----------------
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
=============================================================================
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
EPILOGUE: KEEPING THIS RESOURCE CURRENT
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
I would like to update this resource periodically, so send me any new
|
||
|
|
techniques, comments on the ones here (good or bad), opinions on yeast
|
||
|
|
strains, or your favorite beer recipes.
|
||
|
|
|
||
|
|
Patrick Weix
|
||
|
|
weix@netcom.com
|