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Instuctional phile
Topic ..................... Opening locked objects
Author .................... Compilation phrom several sources
Compiler .................. Nocturnal Phoenix
This is one of a series of compilations I am creating of the
various techniques used to perphorm actions that aught not be
perphormed (but will be done anyway, so why not do it right?).
I am expecting to have maybe ten or so of these compilations
by the time I am done. I realized the need phor some phorm of
organization of this sort of inphormation when I came across
phour meg of shit like this. Out of that phour meg, two meg was
totaly redundant, one meg was corrupted to the point of not
being able to read it, and of the other meg, everything that
was actually usephul was scattered everywhere in bits and pieces.
Now I personally am a strong proponant of peacephul world Anarchy,
but I would really rather not try to make something phun like
nitroglycerin (to use something extremely dangerous that I saw
phrequently in all that shit) without having a complete set of
instructions. Whenever it was possible, I have given credit to
the author of the original article, although I phound many
articles which were the same, word phor word, but with dipherent
authors, phorcing me to chose one of them. Sorry if I chose
wrong.
The compiler of this phile apologizes to the authors of the
articles within phor any alterations done to their documents.
This was unavoidable, as most of these texts were nearly
unreadable by the time I got them. I assume this is due to
various changes made by people who had been in possesion of
them bephore me, and to the slow corruption of the data as it
was sent over innumerable fone lines phrom modem to modem. To
avoid the phurther corruption of this very usephul inphormation,
I would ask two things:
1. That any comments, notes, additions, etc. be placed at
the very end of this phile, not just stuck wherever you
pheel like it. I have put a sample addition in at the
end of this file for convenience. Please leave:
- Your name (your phake name that would be used phor
BBS' and such, not your real name)
- The date
- Where you can be reached (BBS' etc.)
- The inphormation you wish to leave
2. That any random corruptions phound while reading (such
as the word "LOCKPICK" appearing as "LO<4C>KPICK") are
phixed (I'm sure that some smartass will be tempted to
phix the example I have just given. Please don't).
Thank you phor your cooperation in this matter. Please give
this phile to whoever you can, knowing that it will probably
have grown substantially by the next time you phind it. Also,
when you do phind it again, and it is a newer version than you
have, delete the older version and only distribute the newer
one.
- Nocturnal Phoenix
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Arts of Lockpicking I courtesy of The BHU
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not
changed much in the last few years some modern devices and
techniques have appeared on the scene.
Automobiles:
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of
opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered
fully in the book "In the Still of the Night" by John Russell
III); however many car manufacturers have built cases over the
lock mechanism or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim
will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and
3/4 inches wide so it will both reach and slip through the new
car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00
postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to
people who needed to open them because the sidebar locking unit
they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate
matters the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a
Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock
cylinder without harm to the vehicle and will allow you to enter
and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00
for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of
lockout tools offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout
tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security
locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick
and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder
installed door lock. So:
A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and
the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by
using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since
there is no one master key for any one make of car but there are
group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about
$20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years there have been a number of pick attack procedures for
most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they
are as follows:
Normal Picking:
Using a pick set to align the pins one by one
until the shear line is set and the lock opens.
Racking:
This method uses picks that are constructed with a
series of bumps or diamond shape notches. These picks
are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time).
With luck the pins will raise in the open position and
stay there. Raking if successful can be much less of
an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun:
This gun shaped device was invented a number of
years ago and has found application with many
locksmiths and security personnel. Basically a
needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the
"gun" and the "trigger" is pulled. This action
snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is
slipped under the pins they will also be snapped
up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will
strike each other and separate at the shear line
for a split second. When this happens the lock
will open. The lock aid gun is not 100%
successful but when it does work the results are
very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock
with one snap of the trigger.
Vibrator:
Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an
electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect
will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very
short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in
appearance it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of
the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries teflon bearings (for less
noise) and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for
different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas
on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks
(common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage in
the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds
more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at
all. It will also open group two locks (including government
high security and medecos) although this can take a short time
longer. It will not open GM sidear locks although a device is
about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy
that will open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers FC also sells the MI-6 that will
open most safes at a cost of $10 000 for the three wheel attack
model and $10 500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy
aluminum carrying case with monitor disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always
fall back on the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from
3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot
length but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on
one end. To use the lance you screw the tube together with a
matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a
standard welding ignitor. The device produces an incredible
amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even
rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few
seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar and is
available from:
C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago IL 60634
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Arts of Lockpicking II courtesy of The BHU
So you want to be a criminal. Well if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds then go to Hollywood
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file but it takes forever).
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now take your pick to a grinder or a file and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time one above the other. In the
coming instructions please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
/ H [!] Lower tumbler pin
! ! \ O [-] Cylinder wall
! ! ! ! ! ! / L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now
if you push a pin up it's tendency is to fall back down right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now work from the back of the lock to
the front and when you are through there will be a click the
screwdriver will turn freely and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that
you will quickly improve with practice.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Picking Combination Locks {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=} The writer of this text file takes <all> responsibility for what {=--=}
{=--=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=--=}
{=--=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for{=--=}
{=--=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=--=}
{=--=} {=--=}
{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}
Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text
file should help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it will help
you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the
lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little
notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock
it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually
(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination
and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open.
I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having
to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya
don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find
a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one.
If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she
says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and
then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling
(yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal),
take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a
U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle.
Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You
should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different
thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that
ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock
pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look
at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you
will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from,
take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe
shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the
handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up
and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and
the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've
tried it.
Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow
students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks.
I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of
the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the
Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're
locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't
be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when i
say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock,
picking is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key,
etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for
picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a
message at /\/\etalland 1 (503) 538-0761.
This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text
file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
][ BROUGHT TO YOU BY ][
][ COMPUTER PIRATES OF UTAH ][
][ COURTESY OF THE SAFEHOUSE ][
][ (801)-264-8201 ][
][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][][
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]
[+] [+]
[+] L O C K P I C K I N G [+]
[+] [+]
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]
[+] [+]
[+] WRITTEN BY: DARC DEATHE [+]
[+] [+]
[+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+][+]
THIS TUTORIAL WILL DEMONSTRATE HOW TO
"PICK" A PIN TUMBLER LOCK. USE OF THIS
MATERIAL IS FOR LOCKSMITHS ONLY, ANY
USE OF THIS INFORMATION FOR ILLEGAL
PURPOSES IS FORBIDDEN AND AGAINST THE
LAW. (AS LONG AS WE ARE AT IT, DO YOU
WANT TO BUY SOME LAND IN FLORIDA?)
IN ORDER TO PICK A PIN TUMBLER LOCK,
YOU WILL REQUIRE FOUR ITEMS: A LOCK,
YOU, A PICK, AND A TENSION WRENCH. YOU
CAN USSUALLY GET THESE AT A LOCKSMITH
STORE, IF YOU CAN NOT FIND ONE NEAR YOU
THERE WILL BE AN ADDRESS AT THE END OF
THE ARTICLE THAT YOU CAN ORDER THEM
FROM. HERE IS AN ILLUSTRATION OF A PICK
AND A TENSION WRENCH:
________/ !________
PICK TENSION WRENCH
MOST PEOPLE KNOW OF THE NEED FOR THE
PICK, BUT HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THE WRENCH
IS FOR. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT AND WITH-
OUT IT IT WOULD BE IMPOSSIBLE TO PICK
A LOCK.
IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK, WE MUST COUNT
UPON THE IMPERFECTION OF THE LOCK.
BEFORE WE LOOK AT HOW TO ACTUALLY PICK
THE LOCK, WE WILL LOOK AT THE PARTS OF
IT AND HOW THE IMPERFECTION PART FITS
IN. HERE IS A DISSASSEMBLED LOCK:
/ / / /
\ \ \ \
SPRINGS -> / / / /
\ \ \ \
_ _ _ _
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
DRIVERS ->! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
!_! !_! !_! !_!
_ _
! ! _ ! !
BOTTOM PINS ->! ! ! ! _ ! !
! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
\_/ \_/ \_/ \_/
_____________________
! : : : : : : : : !
HOUSING ->! : : : : : : : : !
! : : : : : : : : !
!___: :_: :_: :_: :___!
! : : : : : : : : !
PLUG ->! : : : : : : : : !
!______________________!
! !
! !
! !
!_____________________!
___
/ \
! !__ _ _
! \__ / \_/ \__
! \/ \
\__/------------------- <- KEY
WHEN YOU INSERT A KEY INTO A LOCK, THE
BOTTEM PINS ARE PUSHED UP, AND IF IT
IS THE PROPER KEY, THE TOPS OF THE
BOTTOM PINS WILL MATCH WITH THE SPOT
WHERE THE PLUG AND HOUSING MEET, THUS
ALLOWING YOU TO TURN THE PLUG, AND OPEN
THE DOOR, ETC.. WHEN YOU INSER THE KEY,
THE BOTTOM PINS GO INTO THE VALLEYS OF
THE KEY, THUS MEANING THAT THE KEY MUST
HAVE THE RIGHT HEIGHT VALLEYS TO MAKE
THE LOCK OPEN. PRETTY ELEMENTRY, RIGHT?
WELL NOW WE CAN MOVE ON TO HOW TO PICK
A LOCK.
IN ORDER TO PICK A LOCK WE (AS I SAID
BEFORE) DEPEND ON THE INACCURACY OF THE
MANUFACTURING PROCESS. THE FIRST THING
TO DO IS TO INSERT THE TENSION WRENCH
INTO THE LOCK AND APPLY A SLIGHT
PRESSURE TO THE LEFT (OR RIGHT IF YOU
WISH) SO THAT IF YOU COULD LOOK INSIDE
THE LOCK AT WHERE THE PLUG AND THE
HOUSING WOULD MEET, IT WOULD LOOK LIKE
THIS:
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !*! !
! !*! !
__________! !*! !___________
__________ !*! ____________
! !*!!
PLUG ! !_!!
! _ !
! !*!!
! \_/!
NOW A SLIGHT PRESURE IS ON THE PINS.
BECAUSE THE PINS CAN NOT BE PRODUCED
EXACTLY THE SAME, THERE IS ONE PIN
WHICH IS THE WIDEST AND THERE FORE HAS
MORE TENSION ON IT, AND ONE WHICH IS
THE THINNEST AND HAS ALMOST NO PRESSURE
ON IT. WE NOW USE THE PICK TO >GENTLY<
PUSH EACH PIN UP (AND TRY TO FEEL IT
WHEN YOU LET IT DOWN) UNTIL WE FIND
WHICH IS THE TIGHTEST ON AND WHICH IS
LOOSEST. GETTING THE FEEL FOR THIS IS
THE HARDEST PART OF LOCK PICKING. NOW
THAT YOU HAVE FOUND THE LOOSEST ONE,
GENTLY PRESS IT UPWARD UNTIL YOU FEEL
A SLIGHT REDUCTION IN TENSION ON THE
TENSION WRENCH. THIS WILL HAPPEN WHEN
THE TOP OF THE BOTTOM PIN BECOMES
EVEN WITH THE JUNCTION OF THE PLUG AND
THE HOUSING. DO NOT RELEASE ANY TENSION
FROM THE WRENCH NOW! THE DRIVER WILL
NOW BE TRAPPED IN THE HOUSING AS
ILLUSTRATED HERE: (DON'T I DRAW PRETTY)
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !*! !
! !*! !
___________! !_! !___________
_______________ ___________
! !*! !
PLUG ! !*! !
! \_/ !
! !
NOW YOU CONTINUE THIS PROCESS WITH EACH
OF THE PINS UNTIL YOU WORK YOUR WAY UP
TO THE ONE THAT IS WIDEST. WITH SOME
PRACTICE YOU CAN GET FAIRLY FAST AT
THIS. I SUGGEST PRACTICING ON A FOUR
PIN TUMBLER LOCK THAT IS BOUGHT FROM A
HARDWARE STORE, THE CHEAPER THE BETTER.
I WOULD LIKE TO DISCUSS A PATICULAR
CONFIGURATION OF THE PINS NOW THAT MAY
PRESENT A PARTICULARLY HARD JOB TO
PICK. THIS IS GRAPHICLY SHOWN HERE BY
THE TWO MIDDLE PINS:
!*! !*! !*! !*!
!*! !*! !_! !*!
!*! !*! _ !*!
!_! !*! !*! !_!
_ !*! !*! _
!*! !*! !*! !*!
!*! !_! !*! !*!
!*! _ !*! !*!
!*! !*! !*! !*!
\_/ \_/ \_/ \_/
\_______________
WHEN YOU TRY TO PUSH THE 2ND PIN FROM
THE LEFT UP, YOU WILL UNAVOIDABLY BE
PUSHING THE ONE IN FRONT OF IT UP BE-
CAUSE OF IT'S LONG BOTTOM PIN. THE ONLY
SOLUTION FOR THIS IS TO GET A SPECIAL
PICK THAT LOOKS LIKE THIS:
\
\ _______________
\_/
THE MAJOR PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THAT IT
IS HARD TO INITIALLY DETECT. THE REASON
THAT IT MAKES IT HARDER IF IT IS NOT
IMMEDIETLY APPERANT IS THAT YOU UN-
AVOIDABLY PUSH THE 3RD PIN FROM THE
LEFT UP INTO THE HOUSING, GETTING IT
JAMMED:
! !*! !
HOUSING ! !_! !
! _ !
! !*! !
__________! !*! !________
___________ !*! ________
!!*!!
PLUG !!*!!
!\_/!
I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO ADDRESS A
TECHNIQUE CALLED RAKING. IT USES A
TOOL LIKE THIS:
\/\/\/\___________
BASICLY YOU "RAKE" IT BACK AND FORTH
ACROSS THE PINS, HOPING THAT COMBINED
WITH THE TENSION IT WILL GIVE YOU THE
RIGHT COMBINATION. THIS WAY HAS BEEN
KNOWN: FAST SOMETIMES, BUT IS
NOT VERY RELIABLE, AND I WOULD SUGGEST
LEARNING TO ACTUALLY "PICK" THE LOCK.
EARLIER I PROMISED AN ADDRESS TO ORDER
LOCKSMITHING MATERIALS FROM, SO HERE IT
IS:
GARRISON PROTECTIVE ELECTRONICS
BOX 128
KEW GARDENS, NEW YORK, 11415
SOURCES: PERSONAL PRACTICE AND MANY
EXCELLENT BOOKS FROM MENTOR PRESS, IF
YOU WOULD LIKE THEIR CATALOG, SEND A
SASE TO:
THE INTELLIGENCE LIBRARY
MENTOR PULICATIONS
135-53 NORTHERN BLVD.
FLUSHING, NY 11354
AND ASK FOR ANY INFORMATION AVAILABLE
ON THE INTELLIGENCE LIBRARY.
THIS CONCLUDES OUR EXTRAORDINAIRELY
GRAPHIC ARTICLE ON LOCK PICKING. IF YOU
HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, LEAVE E-MAIL FOR
DARC DEATHE ON MOST NATIONAL BBS'S.
Edited by : Quasimoto
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
]] LOCK PICKING [[
]] BY [[
]] ^^^NIGHTWING^^^ [[
]]]]]]]]]]#[[[[[[[[[[
SO YOU WANT TO BE A CRIMINAL. WELL, IF YOU ARE WANTING TO BE LIKE JAMES
BOND AND OPEN A LOCK IN FIFTEEN SECONDS, GO TO HOLLYWOOD BECAUSE THAT'S
THE ONLY PLACE YOUR GONNA DO IT. EVEN EXPERIENCED LOCKSMITHS CAN SPEND
5 TO 10 MINUTES ON A LOCK IF THEY'RE UNLUCKY. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR
EXTREMELY QUICK ACCESS, LOOK ELSEWHERE. THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS WILL
PERTAIN MOSTLY TO THE "LOCK-IN-KNOB" TYPE LOCK, SINCE IT IS THE EASIEST TO
PICK. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT DEMAND, I WILL LATER WRITE A FILE DISCUSSING
THE OTHER FORMS OF ENTRANCE, INCLUDING DEAD-BOLT.
FIRST OF ALL, YOU NEED A PICK SET. IF YOU KNOW A LOCKSMITH, GET HIM TO
MAKE YOU A SET. THIS WILL BE THE BEST POSSIBLE SET FOR YOU TO USE. IF
YOU CAN'T FIND A LOCKSMITH WILLING TO SUPPLY A SET, DON'T GIVE UP HOPE.
IT IS POSSIBLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN, IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A GRINDER (YOU
CAN USE A FILE, BUT IT TAKES FOREVER.)
THE THING YOU NEED IS AN ALLEN WRENCH SET (VERY SMALL). THESE SHOULD BE
SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE KEYHOLE SLOT. NOW, BEND THE LONG END OF THE
ALLEN WRENCH AT A SLIGHT ANGLE..(NOT 90 DEG.) IT SHOULD LOOK SOMETHING
LIKE THIS:
#1
\\
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (THIS IS THE HANDLE
\\\ THAT WAS ALREADY
\\\ (HERE.)
\\\
\\\
\\\
NOW, TAKE YOUR PICK TO A GRINDER OR A FILE AND SMOOTH THE END (#1) UNTIL
IT'S ROUNDED SO IT WON'T HANG INSIDE THE LOCK. TEST YOUR TOOL OUT ON
DOORKNOBS AT YOUR HOUSE TO SEE IF IT WILL SLIDE IN AND OUT SMOOTHLY. NOW,
THIS IS WHERE THE SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. IS IT SMALL ENOUGH FOR IT AND
YOUR PICK TO BE USED IN THE SAME LOCK AT THE SAME TIME, ONE ABOVE THE
OTHER? LETS HOPE SO, BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY WAY YOUR GONNA OPEN IT.
IN THE COMING INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE REFER TO THIS CHART OF THE INTERIOR
OF A LOCK:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| K
# # # # # # | E
# # # # | Y
* * | H
* * * * * * | O
| L
| E
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX|
#= UPPER TUMLER PIN
*= LOWER TUMLER PIN
X= CYLINDER WALL
(THIS IS A GREATLY SIMPLIFIED DRAWING)
THE OBJECT IS TO PRESS THE PIN UP SO THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE UPPER
PIN AND THE LOWER PIN IS LEVEL WITH THE CYLINDER WALL. NOW, IF YOU PUSH
A PIN UP, ITS TENDANCY IS TO FALL BACK DOWN, RIGHT ? THAT IS WHERE THE
SCREWDRIVER COMES IN. INSERT THE SCREWDRIVER INTO THE SLOT AND TURN.
THIS TENSION WILL KEEP THE "SOLVED" PINS FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. NOW,
WORK FROM THE BACK OF THE LOCK TO THE FRONT, AND WHEN YOU'RE THROUGH
THERE WILL BE A CLICK, THE SCREWDRIVER WILL TURN FREELY, AND THE DOOR
WILL OPEN. DON'T GET DISCOURAGE ON YOUR FIRST TRY! IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE
YOU ABOUT 20-30 MINUTES YOUR FIRST TIME. AFTER THAT YOU WILL QUICKLY
IMPROVE WITH PRACTICE.
THIS IS BY NO MEANS THE MOST EFFICIENT WAY OF ENTERING A HOUSE. IF YOU
WOULD LIKE ANOTHER ITEM OR TWO DEVOTED TO THESE OTHER WAYS, LET THE
SYSOP KNOW.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
/----------------------------------------------------------------------------\
| Count Lazlo Hollifeld Nibble Presents: |
| Mister Shim(TM) - Your Briefcase-Opening Pal |
| A Countlegger Volume Seven World Premiere Textfile |
\----------------------------------------------------------------------------/
Here's a toy that will have limited use for most people now, but which might
encourage a bit more sneakiness in the future. It's a simple device that
allows you to quickly and silently open, with no injury to yourself or the
target, virtually any briefcase that uses a combination lock as its sole
security measure.
___________________| |_ This is the kind of lock to which I refer.
| ___ _ _ _ | | | It's used primarily on your cheaper-style
|| | |-| |-| |-| | | | attache cases, popular among yuppies and
||___| |-| |-| |-| |____| | other wimpy neo-rich types -- maybe including
|__________________________| that nerdy kid in your homeroom with the
^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^^ hornrim glasses and the pencil case in his
Slide Combo Dials Hasp shirt pocket. You never know what he might
have hidden in there . . . like a nice HP
calculator (which he never uses -- he extracts cube roots in his head) or his
lunchmoney. Now you can find out without him knowing. Just snatch the case
fromhis locker, where he keeps it during Gym period, and be sure to put it
back before he returns. (And if you don't know how to get into his locker,
checkout the Master Lock file in PHRACK issue #1.)
------------------------
Building Mister Shim(TM)
------------------------
You'll need a thin piece of metal about 2cm by 3cm. (We're using metric
here, guys. So sue me.) In the one I made I used a piece cut from an
aluminum Coke can and it worked fine. Out of the 2cm end, cut it to look
like the diagram below (which I wish could be less confusing . . . just
look at it carefully).
/ - - - - 12mm - - - - \
|_______ _______| _ _
_ | aluminum | | 2mm
1mm| _ |____/\____ ____/\____| _ _ _ _ _ _|_
. .. \/_ _ .._ _ . _ _ _ _ _ _ _| 1mm
2mm wide:____::____::____::____:
about 1.3mm wide ^^ ^^ ^^
(To SCALE? Are you KIDDING?)
It looks tough, but really isn't . . . use a very sharp exacto knife to cut
out the two corners first, then a fine trangular metal file to smooth it and
file out the small indentations. It'll take about ten to fifteen minutes
if you do it carefully, and it does NOT have to be EXACT . . . just get it
as close as you can. It helps to have one of those locks nearby to
fine-tune the shim. Simply set the lock to its correct combiation and
insert Mister Shim(TM) as described below. If it works as described, your
shim is properly designed.
---------------------
UsingMister Shim(TM)
---------------------
The guy who designed this particular type of lock knew that he'd have to
install some sort of "back door" in it, for all those airheads who would
change the numbers on their locks and then forget them, or in case Random
Briefcase Vandals assaulted the luggage store, raping, pillaging, and
changing combinations as they went. This is that back door.
Use is simple. Slide the modified end of Mister Shim(TM) into the gap right
up to the dial on the lock. (Try both sides, it varies from lock to lock.)
If Mister Shim(TM) goes in ALL THE WAY with a little jiggling, the number
shown on the dial is correct. If not, turn to the next number and try again.
On a three-dial lock, it will take an average of only fifteen checks to find
the proper combination; on a two-lock case with a practiced operator, this
adds up to LESS THAN A MINUTE to open the case.
You can now access anything inside the case you like, or change the
combination if you wish. (To change the combination, push the slide
towards the hasp [see first diagram] and hold it, then turn the dials
to the desired new combo. Your victim will have to go to someone with
their own Mister Shim(TM) -- or destroy the lock -- if they ever want to
get into their briefcase again.)
UseMisterShim(TM) in good health.
DISCLAIMER: Certain applications of Mister Shim(TM) may be illegal in some
areas. Consult your attorney. Mister Shim(TM) is not intended for internal
or topical use. Keep away from cuts or open sores. And remember, this is
just an amusement, not a competition. Please . . . no wagering.
Call Terrapin Station -- 505/865-0883 -- pw:CICADA -- 300/1200 -- 24 hours!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: P/HUN Issue #2 , Volume 1
Phile #5 of 9
Third Party Payphones
By: The Jedi
There's been a lot of discussion lately about paperclipping and
redboxing on payphones so I decided to write up an article about that
subject to be included in this issue of PHUN. Here are a few things that
you'd might find interesting about payphones....
NOTE: All the payphones discussed in this article refer to Non-New York
Telephone PayPhones. There are plenty of third party payphones in New
York. The easiest way to tell if the payphone is from New York Tel is
to look right under the keypad where is says what numbers to dial for
information. All New York Payphones will have their Logo printed
somewhere on that label. If it isn't New York Tel, there will be a
company name and number listed to call for refunds. Thats the company
that owns and operates that perticular payphone.
Get the Coin Box! Not that easy but one of my friends managed to bring
home a parking meter so it IS possible!! Theres two locks you must get
past in order to get to the coin box. First, get a piece of metal and
make the following.....
___
__| |__
|__ __|<===-- about 1/4 of an inch
| |
________| |________
/ X
| |
X___________________/
This key will allow you to get past the lock in the front of the
payphone. Ok, pick the lock on the bottom left-hand side of the payphone
[or drill a hole in it] and then put that key in the front lock and turn
it clockwise [to the right for those of you that can't tell time! heh].
Pull out the coin box and go and play 2000 video games!! Each coin box
holds up to a maximum of $150-175 dollars.
---===>>THE JEDI<<===---
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: P/HUN Issue #3 , Volume 2
Phile #11 of 11
Lockpicking: An Indepth Guide
By: The LockSmith
LOCK PICKING
You can call, or write, or if you can find a local locksmith supply house,
they may have copies available.
Note that the drawings, allthough detailed, are smaller than the actual
tools, but the size tends to be obvious.
NOTE: The correct size of a HPC pick handle is about 3 and 1/8 inches long.
If you have the the HPC drawings enlarged at a copy shop to just under 3x
then they will be of a useable size(If they can't do odd size enlargements,
3x should be close enough.
MATERAL:
Many materials are suitable for making picking tools/tension tools.
Gutter broom bristles(those *BIG* trucks with the rotary brushes that
wash and sweep the street at the same time). Look for the bristles after
the truck leaves...generally at least a few break off...it is preferable
to look near an irregular spot of the road, as this tends to induce
bristle breakage. Also, depending on your area, you may find that
smaller trucks are used along with the larger ones...these generally use
thinner bristles, which make better picks, but many times, the thicker
type makes better tension wrenches.
NOTE:
A Package of strips/round strips of spring steel can be obtained from a
locksmith supply house, but you will pay at least $18.00 for this!
NOTE:
If you *really* have to buy the tools there are 3 ways to go...
1. Try to order them through the mail..allthough the feds have been
trying to pass a bill prohibiting mailing picks, and door opening
tools, unless you can prove you are a bona-fide locksmith(not as
hard as you might think)..THIS BILL HAS NOT PASSED AS OF YET. Also,
the last time I checked am issue of HIGH TIMES, there was a small
advertisment in the back, and they had a pick set(for about twice
the price as the item's standard retail price.
2. Try to work for a store/shop that has a locksmiths license(*NOT* a
keymakers license). Sooner or later they will ask you to pick up
supplies..if the supplier has what you need, then you can add the
items to the order.
3. try and make friends with a locksmith..he can get you tools.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
If you are trying to make your own picks these tools are a good start...
1. A set of warding files(these are often available in the tool
department of large discount stores...For example, for people in
NYC, a chain of stores called Webers tends to have these at a good
price. While you can buy a set from a locksmith supply house, you
will pay at least $20.00-$30.00 for a small set. The discount store
ones are generally $3.00-$5.00 a set. While the quality is a bit
lower, at least from my experience they do the job ok.
2. A small propane or butane torch (if butane, one that can be refilled
with a can of cigarette lighter butane will be a lot cheaper to
operate. Note: a gas (but NOT a electric) kitchen stove burner
will often do in a pinch.
HOW TO MAKE TOOLS:
First, let's assume that you are starting with gutter broom bristles,
as they are generally easy to get, and cost nothing. First, let's
start with a tension wrench... Take a piece about 4-5 inches long,
and make a sharp bend 1/4-1/2 inch from the end, but DON'T make the
bend so sharp that the strip cracks. If you want to make a sharp bend,
heat the strip at the point that you want to bend to red heat and let
it AIR COOL. Do not cool in fluid, as this will make the metal harder!
After, if you want to reharden it, reheat, and plunge it into either
oil or water (oil is better). If this results in the metal getting
too hard, then try cooling it a little slower. A book on metal working
may be useful. Also, if you want to make a complicated bend (a half
twist, for example) then heating the strip at the bend point will allow
easy bending (this is one of those times where a kitchen gas stove
probably will not quite make it.
PICKS:
You need pictures or drawings, preferably full size. Once you have these,
select a piece of metal, soften about 2-3 inches using a torch or gas
burner, then get out your warding files and get to it!
NOTE:
While in theory, you probably could file the strips without softening
them first, the metal is hardened, and resists being filed (this is also
rough on the files). What may help, whether you soften or not, is that
a metal nibbling tool can used for the rough shaping, and in some cases,
can be used to do most of the work. However you do it, it may be advisable
to file the 2 flat sides of the tool(just a bit).
USE OF TOOLS:
The use of lockpicking tools is as much an art as it is a skill, but
most persons with enough practice can learn to do a decient job.
A good book on the subject comes from HPC(again)(Basic Picking and
Raking. This runs around $15.00), this is a bit overpriced, but a
good guide. But, let's go on......
HAND PICKS:
There are 4 different types of picks:
The rake
The hook(this has other names as well)
The diamond
The ball/double ball (2 balls stacked)
THE RAKE:
The rake is prehaps the easiest tool to use, but it does not teach you
much about the lock you are working on; if this does not matter to you,
then don't worry about it. Hold the cylinder or padlock in a upright
position (the way it normally be mounted). The pins should be on the top.
Hold the pick with the more prominent wiggly side up (the hollow side
down). Tilt the back of the handle downward a bit;the wiggly part should
be horizontal. Now put it down for a minute, and pick up a tension
wrench (L shaped piece), and insert the shorter bent end into the bottom
of the keyway.
Now... Rotate the wrench in the direction that the lock normally rotates
to open - if not sure, pick a direction.
Then... hold the pick so that the handle is angled towards you slightly.
at this angle the curved part should be horizontal. Insert the pick into
the lock all of the way into the keyway, and making sure that contact is
attained with the pins. Draw it out..repeat until lock is open. But...
don't push the pins up by forcing the pick upward with great force... not
only will this not open the lock, but you will bend the pick as well. If
it does not open:
Release the tension (you should hear the pins drop).
1. Try less (or more) tension on the tension wrench (NOTE: most
problems are caused by too much tension).
2. Try holding the pick at a slightly different angle and/or height.
3. Try picking the lock in the other direction.
THE HOOK:
The hook is used to lift individual pins in a cylinder. The tension
wrench is inserted and rotated the same way as above. After putting
tension on the wrench, insert the hook into the keyway with the hook
upward. Then, starting from the rearmost pins, lift each pin. To do
this, Lift the pin until you feel a bump, or a "click", or a change in
the spring action of the pin then STOP and go to the next pin. Continue
this until the lock opens. If it does not open, release the tension
then:
1. Try with more or less tension (NOTE:usually the problem is too
much tension, so try lowering it first).
2. Try starting from the front pins, instead of the back ones.
3. Try picking the lock in the other direction.
THE DIAMOND:
This tool is used the same way as the rake, as it is a modified rake
design, although it does not look the same.
THE BALL/DOUBLE BALL:
These tools are mainly used for picking wafer tumbler locks. They are
used the same way as the rake, except these locks open *so* easily, that
you probably won't have to worry about the lock not opening.
NOTE: these locks can often be open in a pinch by using a bent paper
clip (rake the wafers and rotate the clip at the same time)
PICK GUNS:
The most difficult part about using a pick gun is not using it, but
getting the damm thing in the first place. They are available from
most of the same places that hand picks are sold, but unlike hand
picks, are not readily made at home (The best one, at least in my
opinion, is the LOCKAID. This pick is made by a company called majestic.
It is made very well, has an ajustable strike force dial, and has a
LIFETIME warranty!). Well, let's assume you have one of these tools...
The first thing is to get a lock (a small padlock is a good practice
item). Then...
1. insert the tension wrench at the bottom of the keyway, and rotate
it in the direction that the lock opens.
2. starting with the pick gun's tension dial set either to 0 or 1
(0=the point that the dial will go no lower, 1 = 1 full turn in
the opposite direction), take the pick gun and insert it's needle
into the keyway, but try not to insert it beyond the pins, as the
needle may bind. Holding the tool horizontal, squeeze the trigger.
Do this 6-8 times, if no results then release the tension (on the
cylinder), raise the pick gun's tension dial 1 full turn, and try
to open the lock again. Keep trying until you get it open.
TUBULAR LOCK PICKS:
The best guide to using a tubular lock pick, is the instructions that
come with it. However, as these may not be available, these general
notes will get you started. Also HPC has a tutorial on using tubular
lock picks (Basic Picking and Servicing Tubular Locks) (a bit costly,
but if it is as good as other HPC tutorials I've seen, it may be worth
it).
1. Take the pick and slide the feelers (the moveable tines) back and
forth a few times. Slide all of them (usually 7) out past the end
of the tool a bit (maybe 1/8th of a inch or so). Then press the
tool aginst a hard surface until all of the feelers are flush with
the end of the tool.
2. Insert the tool into the front of the lock and gently push it all
of the way into the lock. Then rotate the tool in the direction
required for opening, but use a minimum of force, as excessive
force will cause 2 difficulties:
1. The front of the pick may be damaged.
2. The lock may not be able to be open at all, or if it can it
may be damaged.
After rotating the pick, slowly pump it in and out of the lock
but note that the pick should only be backed out about 1/8 inch
or so. Keep doing this. Eventually the lock should open. If
not...start again from the start.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From : The Terrorist's Handbook
TECHNIQUES FOR PICKING LOCKS
If it becomes necessary to pick a lock, the world's most effective
lockpick is dynamite, followed by a sledgehammer. There are, unfortunately,
problems with noise and excess structural damage with these methods. The
next best thing, however, is a set of army issue lockpicks. These,
unfortunately, are difficult to acquire. If the door to a lab is locked,
but the deadbolt is not engaged, then there are other possibilities. The
rule here is: if one can see the latch, one can open the door. There are
several devices which facilitate freeing the latch from its hole in the
wall. Dental tools, stiff wire ( 20 gauge ), specially bent aluminum from
cans, thin pocket-knives, and credit cards are the tools of the trade. The
way that all these tools and devices are uses is similar: pull, push, or
otherwise move the latch out of its hole in the wall, and pull the door
open. This is done by sliding whatever tool that you are using behind the
latch, and pulling the latch out from the wall. To make an aluminum-can
lockpick, terrorists can use an aluminum can and carefully cut off the can
top and bottom. Cut off the cans' ragged ends. Then, cut the open-ended
cylinder so that it can be flattened out into a single long rectangle. This
should then be cut into inch wide strips. Fold the strips in 1/4 inch
increments. One will have a long quadruple-thick 1/4 inch wide strip of
aluminum. This should be folded into an L-shape, a J-shape, or a U-shape.
This is done by folding. The pieces would look like this:
_______________________________________________________
|_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in
|_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in
|_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in
|_______________________________________________________| 1/4 in
Fold along lines to make a single quadruple-thick piece of aluminum.
This should then be folded to produce an L,J,or U shaped device that looks
like this:
________________________________________
/________________________________________|
| |
| | L-shaped
| |
| |
|_|
_____________________________
/ ___________________________|
| |
| | J-shaped
| |
| |________
\________|
_____________________
/ ___________________|
| |
| |
| | U-shaped
| |
| |____________________
\____________________|
All of these devices should be used to hook the latch of a door and
pull the latch out of its hole. The folds in the lockpicks will be between
the door and the wall, and so the device will not unfold, if it is made
properly.
Another method of forced entry is to use an automobile jack to
force the frame around the door out of shape, freeing the latch or
exposing it to the above methods. This is possible because most door
frames are designed with a slight amount of "give". Simply put the jack
into position horizontally across the frame in the vicinty of the latch,
and jack it out. If the frame is wood it may be possible to remove the
jack after shutting the door, which will relock the door and leave few
signs of forced entry.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Picking Master Locks
by Gin Fizz & Ninja NYC
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right) turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose go to the
next groove if the knob is stiff you have the second number of
the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number spin the dial then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right and at each number
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Picking MASTER warded padlock
These are the locks with the keys that look like this:
_ _
/ \_[]_[]__[]_[] A cross section looks like this: \_/ \
\_/ [] [] [] []
Just file the key down so it looks like this:
_ _
/ \___________[] A cross section looks like this: ~~~~~
\_/ []
Now you can bypass the wards... sometimes you have to pull the key up and
down, turning as you pass each block, to release the latch.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From : The Pyrotechnics Cookbook
Make a jimmey and pick the lock and then steal the stereo...
I'll try to draw a picture...
cut one of those thin metal rules in the pattern given below:
____________________________________________________ ____
\__\ !
\
\--\ /
---------------------------------------------------- ----
The important part are the notches on the sides which are used to pull up
on the cable which pulls up the lock! Get s stereos, equilizers, radar
detectors, car guns, and then destroy the inside (A knife is handy for the
seat.)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
<Example Comment>
Name - Nocturnal Phoenix
Date - October 25, 1992
I can be reached on GENERIC BBS, (555)-555-5555, 1200/9600
<assorted inphormation>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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