169 lines
8.7 KiB
Plaintext
169 lines
8.7 KiB
Plaintext
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* R e n e g a d e L e g i o n *
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RL Masterkey File
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by
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The Gypsy
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Technical Report #6
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May 1991
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The Night Elite BBS (RL HeadQuarters) : (617) oOo-oOOo
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The Electric Eye ][ (RL Support Site) : (313) 776-8928
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Mind Of 'a Lunatic BBS (RL Support Site) : (714) 693-0957
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- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of
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locks that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are
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generally rented to the students for the school year. It is a combination
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lock on the front, and each has a different combination that is given to the
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student with the lock. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This
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keyhole can be easily mastered. Also on the back of these locks is a number
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that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I
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have encountered and mastered are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my
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school area.
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The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The best way to get
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one is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and leave.
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This is the best way because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock unlocked
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and someone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the school
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is wondering what is going on, even before you begin to master!
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Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in
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one of the following ways:
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1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back
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is. Not in the actual hole where the key is inserted, but on the side,
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between the keyhole piece and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the
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screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!)
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2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the
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way around. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of pliers.
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Note: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the grinder
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on it, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.
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3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!
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I used the 2nd method.
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After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If
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you used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small
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piece of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some
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versions of the lock, there may be other pieces of metal from the main housing
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holding on that plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must
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then only use a screwdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use
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the grinder then this is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove.
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If, when you finally get it open, pieces of the lock fly all over, don't
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worry... Unless you were planning to put the lock back together, (yeah,
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right!) you do not need those parts anymore.
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The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver-colored piece that contains
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the brass key-hole section inside. Just get this part... It's really all you
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need. You should also note the version number of the lock which is on the
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back plate (which you've already taken off)... you will need this number so
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you know what type of lock the master key goes to.
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Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is
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getting the little fucking brass piece out of its silver lining. The silver
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part is hard to break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be
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dropped. The brass piece contains pins that will fall out very easily. The
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best way I have found to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping
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it or losing the pins is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete
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piece looks something like this:
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___
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/ K \ K represents the keyhole
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| K |
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\_K_/
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| /___ Piece Mentioned
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| \ Below...
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The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part
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which should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will
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melt at a temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron.
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Once you have melted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the
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brass piece, let it cool. After it has cooled, pick up both pieces together
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(do not remove the brass from the silver yet!). Turn both pieces over
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(keeping the brass piece in the silver!!) so that the "piece mentioned below"
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is pointing upwards. You will then have the brass portion in one hand below
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the silver portion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion,
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making sure no pins fall out of the brass piece. The silver piece can then be
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discarded. Place a piece of clear tape around the brass piece to hold the
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four pins inside.
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Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and
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steal a couple of key blanks. (Unless, of course, you are a COMPLETELY honest
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person, just reading this file for entertainment... If you are then you may
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pay for the keys if you like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10
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made by CURTIS. You may or may not later need to file a tiny amount off the
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END or SIDES of that key. Anyways, it is the best key I have come across that
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fits. Now use some form of a file (I suggest using a grinding-wheel again)
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and file off about 2-3mm (Yes, millimeters) from the bottom of the key.
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Remove the tape from your brass piece (be sure the pins are up, so they do not
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fall out!!). Insert the key into the brass piece key-hole. Push it in until
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it sticks out the other end about 1/2 to 1 mm (or just... "not very far").
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Starting at the far end of the key (the fourth pin) look and see how much of
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the pin is sticking out of the brass piece. Remember approx. that distance
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and remove the key. Take your file and file down on the key a dip in the
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place where that pin (4) would line up on the key. Do NOT file down too far.
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Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how far the pin is getting closer to
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even with the brass piece. When the pin sticks out none and is also NOT
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inside the brass piece at all (i.e. FLUSH), then move on to the next pin doing
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the same thing. If you file down too far then the key is worthless and must
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be re-done. After all four pins have been completed, they should be perfectly
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even with the brass piece when the key is in place. Be sure to re-tape the
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pins inside the brass piece.
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Finally your key is complete, try it out on another lock (with the same
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version number on the back-plate)... You may need to move the key around a
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little inside of the key-hole to make it work. If it does work then turn the
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key back and forth inside the key-hole about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key
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to work better. If it doesn't work then try the key in your brass portion
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again. If they are incorrect then try again. Don't worry, with a little
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practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under 5 minutes with no problem!
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Well, that's it! My school also had "normal" master locks that they used
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for other things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.
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It's done in just about the same way, so you can experiment.
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Just a warning... be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys.
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Also, be sure not to sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna
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give them to everybody else. I say this because I was suspended from school
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for 14 days because the kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to
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another kid. So once people found out he was selling them, others wanted one.
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He then had to tell people "no" (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school
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would have one!). One of these persons decided to be an asshole and narced on
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us. That, of course, is what got me suspended. The main reason that they
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came down hard on us is because selling the keys increased the crime many
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times over. If we had just kept the things to ourselves (what _I_ wanted to
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do) then they probably would have just said 'ok... we'll let you off this time
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if you agree not to make any more'... Yeah, right...
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There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock after taking it
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off and using the master key. This will be explained in the next file.
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That's it for now... If you need help, or are successful, or just want to
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chat about anything - contact me at the Internet Email address below.
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- The Gypsy -=[gypsy@silver.lcs.mit.edu]=-
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EOF
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