textfiles/anarchy/INCENDIARIES/sanpipe.anr

1/26/91
-------------------============< SANCTUARY >============-------------------
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|             Just another EXCRETION from the bowels of Sanctuary...      |
|_____                            City of                            _____|
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___________________________________________________________________________
-=>            JUST ANOTHER PURPOSLESS AUTHOR'S DISCLAIMER              <=-
-=>                                                                     <=-
-=>       As usual, I have encluded a disclaimer.. <Sigh>.....          <=-
-=>       This gets AWEFULLY redundent, but since the assholes          <=-
-=>       .er..I mean Federal Officers have become as pleasant          <=-
-=>       and common-place like mosquitos up your nostrils,I'm          <=-
-=>       figuring it is one of the few safe things to do.  So          <=-
-=>       read on with out fear.  And in case you happen to be          <=-
-=>       attempting this stuff and blow yourself up, I do not          <=-
-=>       know you............................................          <=-
-=>       (Like how I kept this a square?  Pretty spify huh??)          <=-
-=>_____________________________________________________________________<=-


This phile was GRACIOULY written by:         
               
                              Havok Halcyon
               Chief Magistrate of the City of Sanctuary


Presenting.............

-------------------------> Sugar Chlorate Powder <-------------------------
---------------------------> And its Many Uses <---------------------------

Intro
=====

     Here I am, back again, aiding the youths of America in having as much
fun as we possibly can before we become old enough to ACTUALLY go to jail.
But until then, make like Bill and Ted, AND PARTY ON DUDES!!!  But anyhow,
as for the focus of this phile, it is Sugar Chlorate Powder.  It is more of
a blasting powder than an explosive, but many interesting tricks,
explosions, etc. can be gotten from it if ya just use a little brains and
of course, common sense.  For those of you who are kinda new to the
explosives biz, I would STRONGLY suggest that you look into reading The
Pyro Series by .....well..by some guy, I couldn't find his name.  It is a
very nice beginner phile.. I have included the saftey section of PYRO.TXT
at the beginning of this phile so that my readers don't kill themselves.
Pretty smart huh?  You can find the entire PYRO.TXT phile on many boards if
you want it..  If you still can't find it, I know HELLFIRE BBS will have it
so go there.  Just tell 'em how you heard of the place, and you should get
in..
On with the good stuff.....

                          BASIC SAFTEY
                          ============

Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their very nature,
unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, or friction.
A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care in the
handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary if accidents are
to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions, particularly the
following:

         1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or
            at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only
            make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes     
            itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as
            one ounce.)

         2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the     
            scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a    
            bucket of water before weighing the next ingredient.

         3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the
            workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open
            containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental        
            spillage or mixing may occur. When finished with a container,  
            close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean  
            equipment.

         4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER
            TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding
            another ingredient.

         5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable
            structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes      
            should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks.
            Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of
            an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off
            the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the      
            bottom. Some mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the
            ingredients in
            a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is       
            uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away
            from
            yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any
            stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid
            sparks or static.

           Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them
           on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling    
           them
           across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.

         6. Never ram or stamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour   
            the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
            contents down.

         7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a  
            fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may
            be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of
            an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are       
            poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children or   
            pets, preferably locked away.

         8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly
            cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of      
            rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of   
            mixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited
            by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout
            any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.

         9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY      
            GLASSES.  Any careful worker does when handling dangerous      
            materials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable.

        10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust
            form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay      
            there.  They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.

        11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.

        12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.

        13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.

        14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.

        15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
            produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or     
            pilot lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily
            explode dust floating in the air.

        16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.

        17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher,
            hose, etc.)

        18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals
            or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to
            handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container
            or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many  
            people have been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal
            casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance.

        19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
            Some information will be included in each file, but look for
            whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
            thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous      
            stuff.

        20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals.     
            Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.

        21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After
            a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to    
            unload or reuse any dud.

        22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
            doing and leave until it settles.

        23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.

        24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates,
            Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals   
            don't drop them, or even handle them roughly.

These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look at
one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who
played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special
effects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really
messed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor
who played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to
color his face. The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a
replacement. The point is, these chemicals were being used under the
direction of people a lot more knowlegable of chemicals than you are, and
terrible accidents still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.


                           Getting The Materials

     There are quite a few chemical supply houses that you can mail order
the materials you need. You'll have to sign a form stating that you're over
21 and won't use the chemicals for the types of things we're learning here.
Note that the people who run these supply houses know what sugar chlorate
powder does/is and if you order chemicals from the same place, or in the
same order, it may arouse some suspicion. As well as any other chemical
combination that you use for these little "science porjects".

     Check the classified ads in the back of magazines like Popular Science
for the current supply houses. Order as many catalogs as you can find. Not
all sell every chemical that you may want for this series. Also, you can
break the orders up so as not to look suspicious. Lastly, some houses are
used to selling to individuals, and will provide chemicals in 1 or 4 ounce
lots, while others prefer to sell to large institutions, and sell their
wares in 1 or 5 pound jugs. Split up your orders according to the
quantities of each item you think you will be needing. An ounce of Iodine
Crystals will cost three or four dollars an ounce, and an ounce bottle of
iodine is pretty tiny, but it goes a long way. If you had to buy that by
the pound, you might just want to forget the whole thing.

     The shipping charges will mostlikely be compunded because of the
ordering from seprate places, but it is either that or get caught.  So it's
your choice.


The Good Stuff
==============

     When making sugar powder, be sure to get the chemical with the three
molecules of oxygen in it's formula (K Cl O3) (The formula should be on the
side of the container.  The correct formula is called potassium chloRATE.
The one NOT to get is potassium chloRIDE, which is basically a dead
chemical.  Potassium chlorate is still used by some farmers and can
sometimes even be bought at your local drug store.  Most drug supply houses
have it as well.  The cost usually varies, but it is a good deal concerning
its availability since it is easy to make and get and most other explosives
are not.
     There is only one down side to Sugar Chlorate Powder.  The directions
must be followed EXACTLY!  They are not that hard to follow however.
Unless you think that directions on how to make a cake from a box are
difficult, you should have very little problem.  Otherwise, DON'T TOUCH
THIS STUFF!

Directions
==========

     You will get a simple step to follow with a little in depth details to
clear anything coonfusing up.


1.   Buy the correct chemical - use potassium chlorate KClO3.

     (We already went through that, no need to do it again.)

2.   Use common, granulated white sugar as the second ingrediant.


3.   DRY measure the two into equal amounts by volume.

     When I say DRY, I mean use measuring instruments used in measuring dry
     powders.  NOT the measuring cup used to measure liquids.  By equal
     volume I mean use:  1 cup of KClO3 for each cup of sugar.

4.   Sift the KClO3 so that all the lumps are removed or crushed.

     You can use a screen, like the type in screen doors, to sift the
     powder.  Sometimes, if the powder has NO lumps, you can skip this     
     step.

5.   Place the sugar in an old pot.  Heat it to 255 degrees Fahrenheit,
     STIRRING CONSTANTLY.

     Use a simple candy thermometer to tell tempertature.  You can get one
     from a supermarket most likely.  Or steal one from your chemistry lab.
     MAKE SURE YOU ARE MEASURING IN FAHRENHEIT!  Not Centigrade.

6.   Take the sugar away from the stove burner when it reaches 255 and
     STIR VIGOROUSLY!

     The stirring is needed to get out all the hot spots in the sugar.     
     

7.   Continue to stir until the melted sugar cools sufficiently to         
     comfortably put your finger into the mixture.

8.   Quickly stir in the KClO3 before the compound cools down and sets up,
     completely mixing in the KClO3.

9.   Dump the solidifying compoundon a pieceof Saran wrapand flatten out to
     not more that one-half-inch thick.

10.  Allow the batch to sure overnight (12 hours) in a cool, dry place.

     A refridgerator is TOO cool and damp.  A nice August/September night  
     in an open garage in New Jersey is perfect.

11.  Using a wooden rolling pin or mortor and pestal, crush the frangible  
     powder as fine as required for the intended use.  Fine is better for  
     reloading;  coarse is okay for bombs.

     I'll explain some uses in detail later.

12.  Sift the powder through a fine scren to grade for particle size.

13.  Use to wreck havok..er...I mean havoc and hell...


Some Uses in Detail
===================

     For people that are into guns, you can sieve the very fine particle
out and use them for reloading ammo.  I know people that have loaded it
into .22 LR cartridges after they had pulled the heads and dumped the
factory powder charge.

     The powder is best used for bombs though.  Basically because it is not
to nice on gun barrels.

     Sugar powder is MATCH-SENSITIVE.  I belive that it is also impact
sensitive.  I also suspect that it is CAP-SENSITIVE fro those of you who
fool around with blasting caps and dynamite.

     In three-quarter-inch pipes, the sugar does not reach critical mass
and simply fizzles.  When ignighted with a fuze in half-pound quantities in
one-half-inch or larger pipe bombs, it "barks" nicely, doing a decent
amount of damage.  The best charges are packed in as dense a manner as
possible.

     Many people have many different for the best designed pipe bomb.  I'll
throw my hat into the ring with my favorite design:


          2-IN. OR LARGER IRON PIPE WITH THREADED END CAPS

     ==========                                   ==========
     =        =                                   =        =
     =        |-----------------------------------|        =
     =        |                                   |        =
     =        |                              <---------------Pipe packed
     =        |________________ | ________________|        = with sugar
     =        =                 | <--- Fuze Hole  =        = powder.
     ==========                 |                 ==========
                                | <--- Fuze


               COMMON SODA STRAW FILLED WITH MIX OF:
          50% SUGAR CHLORATE, 50% FINE HARDWOOD SAWDUST
      ___________________________________________________
     /________\__________\__________\__________\_________\




     Another type of fuse to make is the cotton string dipped in a solution
of sugar powder.  It can be subject to flash burns, so it should only be
used in very long length.  Fortunatly, it is cheap and easy to make.

     The straw design is mch more reliable and predictable than the string
fuze.  Just take a nice fat straw and fill it with the about mixture.
Varing the amount of sawdust controls the timing of the fuze.  Not to
mention, you can slip ends into each other to further lenthen the time of
the fuze.

     The most unusual and most fun thing to do with sugar powder is the ol'
light bulb trick.  First take a simple 60- or 100-watt light bulb.  Knock
out a small chunk of the side using a towel or rag a small ball peen
hammer.  Then fill the bulb with one-quarter to one-half pound of sugar
powder.

     When you turn on the light switch, the oxygen exposed elements in the
bulbs flash, setting off the sugar powder, which thump the room nicely.
The thump is not TOO powerful however.  It doesn't even blow out the
windows.  BUT it does create SO much smoke and confusion that it is well
worth trying to get the bulb to break corrrectly.


WELL!!!  I hope that you have enjoyed our little romp through explosives
today!!  And remember, this stuff is dangerous so be careful..

NEXT TIME!!  What will it BE?!?!?  Explosives? Phreaking? How to jerk off?
WHO KNOWS!!!  We will jkust have to wait til then!  See ya later fools...er
I mean readers... (Notice how I'm real serious when talking about
explosives, but no other time.  I'm a responsible person, can't ya tell?)

So until then...... OH....OH....YOU STUD YOU....OH...OH...YES!!!!MAKE ME
FEEL LIKE A MAN...er...I mean ....WOMAN.....YES!!!!!!
AAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhh ..hh..h.h..h.....h......  Any body got a
doobie?

Later Love Muffins...