327 lines
16 KiB
Plaintext
327 lines
16 KiB
Plaintext
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+ Explosives +
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+ Edited by Joe +
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Pipe Bombs
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By The Mortician
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The first thing to do is get some gun powder, if you can buy it you are
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better off. You can get it at most gun shops if you are over 18, but if not
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then see the next section on how to make it. Now go down to a hardware store
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and buy lead piping about 4-6 inches long and 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches thick. Get
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two caps for each pipe. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe through one
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side, then put one cap on and fill the pipe up with powder. Put the other
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cap on. Stick a long fuse in the hole and use model glue or something to
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keep it in. Then light it and get away fast!!!!! The caps will usually fly
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off so if you have a target aim one of the caps at it and leave the other one
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1/2 turn from fully tight. But still stand way out of range as this is very
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dangerous.
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Call the Morgue at (201) 376-4462
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Another way that I have heard of seems that it might be less effective,
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but easier to make. Buy some pipe as said above, and put on of the caps on.
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Drop some sharp rocks into the bottom. Get a baby food jar, and fill it with
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vinegar. Screw the top on tightly, and slide it carefully down into the
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pipe. Now pour some baking soda into the pipe and put the other cap on. To
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start it, hit it sharply against the ground so that the rocks break the jar,
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then throw it. Wait two to five minutes and see what happens. I have never
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tested this, so I don't know if it works, although I've heard that it gets
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satisfying results.
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Gun Powder
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By The Mortician
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The ingredients are:
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Potassium Nitrate: 85%
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Carbon(Charcol) : 12%
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Sulfur : 3%
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They are rough percentages but try a little like that and play with it.
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The more Potassium you add, the faster it will burn. The less sulfur, the
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slower. The less carbon, the less it will burn. What to do is just put them
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all in a mixing jar, I used a little cardboard box with low sides, and then
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ground it up and mix it together. You can get Potassium Nitrate at most drug
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stores. It is commonly known as Salt Peter.
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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How to Make and Use Nitroglycerin
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CH2ONO2
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| 3/2 N2 + 3 CO2
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CHONO2 ----------> +
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| Ignition 5/2 H2O + 1/4 O2
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CH2ONO2
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(How Nitro explodes--note that the by products are nothing but nitrogen,
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carbon dioxide, water and oxygen)
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Nitroglycerin (heretofore Nitro) is a very powerful high-explosive. I
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am not sure who invented it but he probably didn't--the first person to make
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it probably blew himself up and his friend got the information off his notes.
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Well anyway, the next best thing to Nitro is TNT which is ten times harder to
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make but also ten times safer to make.
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To make Nitro:
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Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid (for best results it should have a
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specific gravity of 50 degrees Baume') with 200 parts sulphuric acid. This
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is going to be HOT at first--it won't splatter if you pour the nitric INTO
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the sulphuric but don't try it the other way around. The acid solutions
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together can disolve flesh in a matter of seconds so take the proper measures
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for God's sake!!! When cool, add 38 parts glycerine as slowly as possible.
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Let it trickle down the sides of the container into the acids or it won't mix
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thoroughly and the reaction could go too fast--which causes enough heat to
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ignite the stuff. Stir with a **GLASS** rod for 15 seconds or so then
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CAREFULLY pour it into 20 times it's *VOLUME* of water. It will visibly
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precipitate immediately. There will be twice as much Nitro as you used
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glycerin and it is easy to separate. Mix it with baking soda as soon as you
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have separated it--this helps it not to go off spontainously.
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NOTES: Parts are by weight and the Baume' scale of specific gravity can
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be found in most chemistry books. You can get fuming nitric and sulfuric
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acids wherever good chemicals or fertilizers are sold. It is positively
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STUPID to make more than 200 grams of Nitro at a time. When mixing the stuff
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wear goggles, gloves, etc. When I first made the stuff I had the honor of
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having it go off by itself. (I added too much glycerine at a time) I was
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across the room at the time, but I felt the impact--so did the table it was
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on, as well as the window it was next to--they were both smashed by only 25
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grams in an open bowl. Oh, yes, glycerine you can get at any pharmacy and
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you need an adult signature for the acids. Any bump can make Nitro go off if
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you don't add the bicarbonate of (baking) soda--but even with that, if it
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gets old I wouldn't play catch with it.
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Once you have made the Nitro and saturated it with Bicarbonate, you can
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make a really powerful explosive that won't go off by itself by simply mixing
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it with as much cotton as you can and then saturating that with molten
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parifine--just enough to make it sealed and hard. Typically, use the same
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amounts (by weight) of each Nitro, cotton and parifine. This, when wrapped
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in newspaper, was once known as "Norbin & Ohlsson's Patent Dynamite", but
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that was back in 1896.
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If you have any questions, comments or subpoenas, send E-mail.
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Karl Marx
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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How to Make a Working Letter Bomb
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By The Rebel Warhead
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Letter bombs are very simple to make, but the difficult part is making
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sure it will detonate properly, or that it is not obvious that it is a bomb.
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Mixtures:
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About 75% Aluminum powder with 25% Iron powder is best. This is a light
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version of Thermite, since it is in an enclosed space (the envelope, as
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described below).
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Mix the above well. The idea is this: Iron can burn, at a very high
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temperature, but it needs a little help. This is what the Aluminum is for.
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Aluminum burns at a relatively low temperature, so it is used as a catalyst
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of sorts. Magnesium is used to flash-ignite the Aluminum, which then burns
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the Iron, at a suitable tempature. Since this is going off in an enclosed
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space, it will burn much hotter and slower and with more violence than a
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normal mix. I advise you to play with this for a while, learning your
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mixture.
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Now for the fun stuff:
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Get an insulated (padded) envelope, the type that is double layered.
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Seperate the layers. In the inner layer goes the wonderful mixture, one that
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you are satisfied with. Keep this section seperate. The outer layer can be
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either Magnesium, for a flash bomb, or possibly a material of your own
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choice.
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Now for the difficult part! The fuse. We can make a fuse from another
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set of chemicals: Iodine Crystals, and Amonium Hydroxide, in liquid form.
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You should mix these together, in about an equal amount, but you might want
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to use a heavy amount of Iodine if pressed for time. These form a new
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crystalline structure, about an inch long. These are highly violtile, and I
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advise keeping them protected. They have about the impact power of an M-100
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for a teaspoon.
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I put these in a protective cardboard lining, and put them at the top of
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the envelope. Rig this so it puts pressure on the crytals when the package
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is opened, but not from just squeezing the envelope. This is tricky, and I
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can't explain it here. Seal this up, and you have a working letter bomb.
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By the way, since the bulk of letter bombs are easily recognizable, they
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rarely make it past the post office.
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*****************************************************************************
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* I frown upon the use of letter bombs as a means of getting even because*
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*you never know who it is going detonate around, or that it will even be *
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*them. There are simpler ways of getting even, so take one of them. It is *
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*also a federal offence to make and send one. Procede at you own risk. *
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*****************************************************************************
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How to avoid letter bombs:
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Since you made it this far into the file, I will tell you how to avoid
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being detonated with a letter bomb you may have had sent to you.
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1) Never open a letter bomb the way it wants to be opened! This is the way
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of possible avoiding the fuse. If it is set to detonate on contact with
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air, then this will not work.
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2) Don't squeeze, bend, or anything!
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3) If if looks like a bomb, then don't even touch it! This is the best way
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to avoid problems!
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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Blowing up a Car
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An Article from the Book:
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The Poor Man's James Bond
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By Kurt Saxon
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NOTE - THIS ARTICLE IS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE NOT CONTENT TO PSYCH OUT
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THE DRIVER WITH SOME PRACTICAL JOKE. IF YOU HAVE HIS LAST RIDE IN MIND, THEN
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READ ON:
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The best methods of blowing up a car requires getting under the hood.
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Explosives are placed as near the occupants as possible. The fuse, homemade,
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commercial or safetey, is wrapped a few turns around the exhaust manifold.
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After a few minutes on the road the exhaust manifold gets almost red hot and
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ignites the fuse.
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This way is more certain than wiring the car because since it blows up
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on the road the wreck will do the victem in even if the blast doesn't.
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Besides, if the intended victim is a passenger instead of the driver, the
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driver may start the engine before the passenger gets into the car. You can
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see how embarrassing that would be to the bomber, can't you?
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Old-fashioned types, like the Mafia, love to wire cars. They are too
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set in thier ways to change and besides, they get a charge out of seeing a
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car blow up before thier eyes instead of imagining it going to hell on the
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road.
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They usually use about three sticks of dynamite, two lengths of electric
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wire with two alligator clips for quick attachment, and an electric blasting
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cap. The cap is stuck into a dynamite stick and its two wires are connected
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to the two electric wires. Then one alligator clip is clamped to the input
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side of the coil and the other is fastened to any metal surface in the car's
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frame as a ground.
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This is very simple and you'd think anyone could do it. But sure enough,
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there are always morons who will attach one clamp to a spark plug and one to
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a ground. This usually results in misfires and no end of frustrations.
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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Soft Drink Can Bomb
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An Article from the Book:
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The Poor Man's James Bond
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By Kurt Saxon
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This is an anti-personnel bomb meant for milling crowds. The bottom of a
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soft drink can is half cut out and bent back. A giant firecracker or other
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explosive is put in and surrounded with nuts and bolts or rocks. The fuse is
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then armed with a chemical delay in a plastic drinking straw.
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After first making sure there are no children nearby, the acid or
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glycerine is put into the straw and the can is set down by a tree or wall
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where it will not be knocked over. The delay should give you three to five
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minutes. It will then have a shattering effect on a passersby.
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It is hardly likely that anyone would pick up and drink from someone
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else's soft drink can. But if such a crude person should try to drink from
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your bomb he would break a nasty habit fast!
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|| <-chemical ingiter
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____||___
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| !! |
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| ----- |
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|%| | |
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| | | | <- big firecracker
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| ----- |
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|% |
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| % |
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| %|
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| % | <- nuts & bolts
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| % |
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|_______|
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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Making Thermite
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By X Calibur
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Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically
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anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open a
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Fortress Fone. Now here's how you make it, it is very simple. The first
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step in making Thermite is to make Hematite. In layman's terms, Hematite is
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Iron Oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust.
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You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. To do this you will
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need a source of DC power. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach
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the rod to the POSITIVE wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in
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opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the
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water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit
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overnight. In the morning, there will be dark red crud in the jar. Filter
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all the crud out of the water or just fish it out with a spoon. Now you will
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need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light
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red.
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The other ingrediant you will need is aluminum filings. You can either
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file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest) buy aluminum filings at your
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local hardware store. (If you buy the bar use no less than 94% pure
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aluminum. It is called Duralumin.) That's almost it. Now, mix together the
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rust and aluminum filings. That's Thermite!
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Now, to light it. Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the
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Thermite. (Either steal it from a chemistry lab or buy it at your local
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hardware store. If you can't, order it from a chemical supply house. It's
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pretty cheap.) The ribbon should stick into the Thermite like a fuse. Now
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you light the magnesium with a blowtorch. (Don't worry. The torch isn't hot
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enough to light the Thermite.) When the burning magnesium reaches the
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Thermite, it will light. When the Thermite burns, get the hell back! That
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stuff can vaporize carbon steel. It does wonders on human flesh.
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+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+
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| Call the Noble House (415) 365-5073 Call the Roman Forum (415) 328-5916 |
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