276 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
276 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
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Fake ID's- using your computer pub # 1.0
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by
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The Pressman
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*****
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I, as the author, ask that none of these instructions be carried out.
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They are for information purposes only. Forgery of legal documents is
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highly illegal, and so is possession of one.
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*****
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There are two graphics files that should have come with this text
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file. One should be a .GIF. It is the illustrations. The second is an
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.EPS file. It is an example of the work. Both files should be readable
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on an IBM or Mac.
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Fake ID's are a fast growing underground business. They are a
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perfect way for the average equipped anarchist to bring in a little extra
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cash. Plus, if your underage, you can safely buy gun powder and
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chemicals. Even if you aren't a minor, it's a great way to eliminate
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your name from records.
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A word about the final product-
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These ID's are not perfect. You CANNOT, I repeat, CANNOT!, fool a
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police officer, border patrol, or other forms of legal authority with
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these. They are not designed to be taken out of a wallet. Have them
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behind the clear plastic where lots of people keep them. You cannot
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use them at places that require you to take them out.
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You can, however, fool most liquor store owners, night club
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bouncers, and bar tenders. This, of course, depends on how old you
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look. Obviously a 12 year old is always going to have trouble getting
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into a 21 or over nightclub, no matter how convincing the ID. If you
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plan to sell this stuff, I advise you to warn your costumer of these
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things. Remember, when doing business with the underground, an
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unhappy costumer can be a dangerous costumer.
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These ID's are not easy to make, and require much patience. A fair
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amount of knowledge dealing with desktop graphics is needed. The
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directions will tell you what to do, but it's your job to figure out how to
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use your software.
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Equipment:
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1. Computer with at least a 640/480 16 color VGA system. NOTE: It
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is definitely possible to use a Mac. All of the software references are
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IBM stuff, since I know nothing about Macs.
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2. Semi professional DRAWING program, not a painting program. I'd
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use Corel Draw 3.0. Paint programs like PC Paintbrush, and Deluxe
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Paint will not work.
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3. Fonts. You'll need Helvetica Black (kind of a super bold), plain
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Helvetica, some kind of computer print looking font. I'd use Corel
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Draw's LCD.
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4. 300 DPI or higher laser printer, it must be able to print
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transparencies. Most can, but check your manual. Don't worry about
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color output.
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5. 35 mm camera (optional)
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6. Razor blade, the wider the better.
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7. Sharp, accurate scissors. (Very important)
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Supplies:
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1. Transparencies. You can find these at any office supply store.
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They must be the kind that your laser printer can use.
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2. Elmer's rubber cement.
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3. Vector based clipart of your state flag. Or, if your an artist, you
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can draw it.
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4. Real license. (It will remain undamaged)
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Directions:
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I Choosing your state
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The first thing that must be done is to choose the state that you ID
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will portray. It is best to choose your home state, but this is not
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always possible. Use this questionnaire to help you with your
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decision.
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Part 1
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1. Does your state license have any kind of holograms, bar codes, or
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any other electronic data stored on it?
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2. Does it consist of any other color besides these seven colors: red,
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blue, green, yellow, purple, cyan, or magenta? (They must be EXACT.
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Goldenrod does not mean yellow, teal does not mean green.)
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3. Is there any special lamination coating on the license? (Example:
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The state seal embedded in the plastic.)
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If you answered "yes" to any of these three questions, then go to Part
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2, you cannot use your home state. If you answered "no" to all of
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these questions, then use your own state license, jump to II.
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Part 2
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Since you cannot use your home state, you'll have to choose a
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different one. Use the guidelines to help with your decision.
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1. Don't choose a state that has frequent visitors in your own state.
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For example, Oregon has lots of visitors from California, Idaho, and
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Washington. If you live in Kansas, you definitely wouldn't choose
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Missouri.
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2. Choose a state that isn't well known in your area, but the people
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don't act or talk too different from yourself. For example, If you live in
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Maine, don't choose Hawaii or Texas. Alaska or Washington would be
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a better choice.
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II Drawing the license (Illustration #1)
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Even if your using a different state, design it to look as close as
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possible to your own. This will ad a touch of familiarity that will
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influence the realism.
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The size is very important. It must be EXACT. Measure the border
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with an accurate ruler, preferably the clear kind. Then draw a box
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accordingly. Round the corners to the correct degree.
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A The black
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1. Measure all of the boxes and lines. Draw them.
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2. Label them with the correct font; this might take some
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experimentation. Example, Date of Birth, License number.
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3. Fill in the boxes with your bogus information. Remember to put
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your real height, weight. (duh.) Never use your real name. (duh
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again) Use the computer font.
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4. Check an adults license, it looks a little different than a minors.
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B The color
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1. Import the flag clipart. Remove everything but the seal. Change
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all the fill colors to clear, and the border colors to your state color.
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Touch up the seal according to your state.
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If you are using an out of state flag, add a double circle and inside,
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put the state name at the top, and the birth at the bottom. For the
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state color, use the main color on the seal. This makes a nice generic
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seal.
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Resize and place the seal in the correct spot.
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2. Type in the state name, fill it with the state color. Use a hairline
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border with the same color. Remember to use the correct font.
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Resize, and stretch according to your license.
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III The photo
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This is perhaps the most difficult part of creating a fake ID. There are
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two methods.
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A Passport photo's
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You can pay six bucks for a passport photo. Remember to order the
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correct size, and to choose the proper curtain color. You can have
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passport photo's taken at most camera shops. Check the yellow
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pages.
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B Making your own
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This is much harder, but allows you save some money, and is also a
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little safer. The development cost is about the same, but that is for 24
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or 36 exposures, not one. You can fit a lot of people onto one roll of
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film.
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1. Background
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a The background cannot be too reflective, or very textured. Shower
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and beach towels are terrible. Velvet dresses are perfect. Cotton
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sheets are ok.
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b Use the same color as on your license, or if it's an out of state one,
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use light but not pale colors. Black and dark blue are terrible. Red
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and green are great.
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2. Lighting (Illustration #2)
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a Use flash, if you don't have it, read on.
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b You can use reading lamps for your lighting. The object is to
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eliminate drastic shadows.
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3. Taking the picture
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a Use a 35 mm camera
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b Use a tripod, and fill the frame with the person's head.
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c Use slightly different zoom settings for each picture. Take at least
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five per person.
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3. Development
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You can't develop these pictures at a 1 hour photo shop. Find a
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professional color photo lab, (check the yellow pages) and ask for a
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color contact sheet of the film. They are a large piece of photo paper
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with all of the developed photo's on it, the same size as a negative.
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That is the perfect size for an ID.
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IV Printing
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If you have a good color printer, then you can skip the rest of this. Just
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print it and sign it.
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A The black
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1. Copy the black onto a new document, and keep the outline border.
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Print it out on a transparency, check your manual on how to do this.
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B The color
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1. Copy the color onto a new document. Don't include the outline
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border, but keep the state name and symbol the same distances from
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each other. Label the top in big letters, "State Symbols" and tile a
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bunch of bogus state symbols with the name underneath. Half of
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them should be your state symbol and name. It is now disguised, and
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looks like some sort of school project. (Illustration #3)
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2. Print it out on your printer.
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3. Now take the paper to a print shop that has a color copier.
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(Laserquick, Kinko's). Ask the printer to copy these onto light gray
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paper in the color of your choice. Color copiers can print a single
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color image in eight colors. Red, blue, yellow, green, purple, cyan,
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magenta, and black. Tell the person what color you want. Get as
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many copies as you can afford. (Usually around 79 cents a piece.)
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V Assembly
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A The border
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The first thing to do is put a border around the colored background
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paper. To do this, scotch tape the corners of the transparency to a
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window. (During daytime.) Now take the colored background paper
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and hold it up to the window, align one of the color backgrounds to
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the black transparency, then tape in place. Take a very sharp pencil
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and lightly trace the border onto the background paper. Trace the
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upper right hand corner (where the photo should be) on the other
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side. DON'T CUT IT OUT YET.
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B The picture
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1. Measure the picture on a real ID. Take a small piece of copier
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paper and draw it onto the paper. Cut it out, and put a very small
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drop (the size of a pin head) of rubber cement on the paper. Smear it
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around and let it dry.
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2. Now press it against the photo you plan on using (Glue side
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down). Make sure it is aligned correctly, so that the edges of the
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paper make a perfect border around the covered picture. Using the
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paper as a guide, cut out the picture. Peal off the paper.
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3. Take the razor blade and separate a corner of the thin, plastic
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coating consisting of the picture from the rest of the photo paper,
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making sure not to damage the photo. Now peal the rest away with
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your fingers. You should be left with a very thin picture, almost
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enough to see through it if it's held up to the light. It will probably be
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curled up; but don't worry about it.
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4. Apply a healthy coating to the upper right corner on the
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background paper with rubber cement in the general area where the
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photo should be. (Illustration #4)
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5. Press the photo into place, rolling it down onto the background.
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The upper right corner of the photo should stick out of the
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background border. When the whole thing is dry, use a pencil eraser
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to remove any dried rubber from the paper or photo. Be careful to rip
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or smudge anything.
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C The background
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1. Take two sheets of copier paper, roughly the size of the ID (a little
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bigger), and glue them together with rubber cement. Glue them to the
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back of the background paper. Let it dry.
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2. Carefully follow the pencil line, and cut out the background. When
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you get to the photo, turn it over and follow the pencil line on the
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other side. (Illustration #5) Use the eraser to remove any pencil
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marks left on the paper. You should be left with the colored parts of
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the ID, and the photo.
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3. Measure the distance from the bottom of the card to the signature
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line. Draw the line in pencil. Sign the ID, using a fine line black pen.
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(Something like a uni ball micro by Faber-Castell)
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4. Erase the pencil line after the pen has dried.
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D The black
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1. Cut out the black foreground. Follow the black line exactly. Cut
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off any pieces that still have the black line on them.
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2. Turn the transparency over, and apply a small glob of rubber
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cement to each corner of the transparency.
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3. Using the razor blade like a squeegee, slide it through the glue and
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down off the plastic. Repeat this for each corner. You should have a
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thin film of glue on the back of each corner.
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4. Align the transparency, and press it against the background. Do this
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quickly, before the glue dries, and make sure there are no air bubbles. If
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you do it right, you should have a complete looking ID.
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Insert the ID into a plastic pocket in a wallet. Be careful not to
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damage anything. Don't keep it there unless you're about to use it,
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otherwise, keep it wrapped up in protective paper, and store it behind
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your real license.
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If you have any questions, suggestions, or corrections, leave a
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message to The Pressman on the Ripco BBS. (312) 528-5020
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I'm very interested in information on alarm systems. If you'd like to
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share any of your knowledge, leave me a message.
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I'll update this file from time to time, so watch the publication number.
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